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unffffffffffff soft eights are my favorite rim of all time and they go well with the green of your car.
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# ? Dec 31, 2014 02:41 |
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# ? Jun 10, 2024 13:12 |
They need a stripe. Everything needs wheel stripes.
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# ? Dec 31, 2014 10:35 |
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Hot drat that is some sexy wheel.
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# ? Dec 31, 2014 15:35 |
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It's going to look sweet! 2 things, 225s are best on an 8in wheel. I would step up to 9in for the 245s, and 10in for the 275s. Some careful measurements and offset choosing (and possibly fender rolling) would be required, but it would look phenomenal.
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# ? Dec 31, 2014 15:47 |
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mafoose posted:It's going to look sweet! I was thinking about sizes too, but my wheels are in the range listed by the manufacturer so I think I'll be ok. The 275s are on the low end, but they tested it on a 9.5. Thanks for the concern I can't not make those first sentences sound sarcastic. I actually appreciate the input.
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# ? Dec 31, 2014 16:50 |
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First one's here! I'll get it mounted tomorrow and get it on the car. I got some new lug nuts and I'm very happy to see that they're long enough. Annoyingly, they're sold in packs of 4 and not 5. Oh well.
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# ? Jan 3, 2015 00:04 |
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Mmmm yesssss. Whenever I get around to doing a 5-lug swap and bigger-than-15" wheels, I can never decide if I want to do 17" Soft 8s or 18" (or 20") Torq-Thrust clones.
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# ? Jan 3, 2015 00:09 |
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:First one's here! I'll get it mounted tomorrow and get it on the car. I got some new lug nuts and I'm very happy to see that they're long enough. Annoyingly, they're sold in packs of 4 and not 5. Oh well. 5 sets of 4 will still do the whole car. Makes sense if you're doing the whole car since you have 4 wheels, and the manufacturer doesn't know how many lugs per wheel you've got.
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# ? Jan 3, 2015 02:03 |
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Raluek posted:5 sets of 4 will still do the whole car. Makes sense if you're doing the whole car since you have 4 wheels, and the manufacturer doesn't know how many lugs per wheel you've got. Oh, I totally get it. Buyer is guaranteed to have 4 wheels, but not necessarily 5 lugs. Doesn't make it any less annoying.
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# ? Jan 3, 2015 02:31 |
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Tire is mounted. Verdict is: Obviously, the suspension is at full droop so it looks a bit weird, but I think it will tuck up very nicely once it's on the ground. Edit: 2 minute PS hackjob: Boaz MacPhereson fucked around with this message at 19:44 on Jan 3, 2015 |
# ? Jan 3, 2015 19:38 |
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That car reminds me of this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBFwXoyjU2E My mom had a 69 nova when she was in her early twenties. My dopey dad sold it and got a volkswagen dasher after they married...
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# ? Jan 4, 2015 01:48 |
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Tire is mounted. Verdict is: Holy poo poo that looks good. Time to buy a plane ticket to somewhere these are still intact.
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# ? Jan 4, 2015 01:59 |
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Just wanted to let you guys know that I'm not dead. It's been a slow month as we've had some expensive poo poo going down and funds need to be shifted a bit. I'll be getting a rear tire ordered in a couple weeks and should have it mounted the first weekend in February. Based on some educated guesses and some measuring, I think it's going to be tight in the back, but I should still be ok. Maybe have to massage the quarter panels a bit. Assuming I can dip into the tax return a bit and maybe get some money for my birthday in April, I hope to have the car on the ground and the engine in process of going back in come summer. Maybe I'll drag it to a local show. Once it's moving under its own power again, I'll start looking at suspension parts... ...which leads me to a question for the masses: What order do you think I should start installing suspension? I'd like to go rear leaves first as the passenger side is shot. Right rear liked to rub on big bumps when I drove it home. I've got a tentative order that I want to buy parts in, but I figured I'd get a second opinion from the experts. 1 - Rear springs (again, right rear is currently thrashed) 2 - Front springs 3 - Shocks 4 - Front swaybar 5 - Rear swaybar 6 - Subframe connectors 7 - Control Arms Thoughts?
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# ? Jan 20, 2015 02:59 |
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Sorry I'm of no help but I gotta say it's going to look awesome with those wheels!
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# ? Jan 20, 2015 03:05 |
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I'd check out the Hotchkis TVS kit. Looks like that'd knock out a good portion of your list in one swoop.
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# ? Jan 20, 2015 19:23 |
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Thelonious posted:I'd check out the Hotchkis TVS kit. Looks like that'd knock out a good portion of your list in one swoop. This. Installation is pretty easy, the instructions are a little wonky, but it works. Can't wait to get the rest on my car. Worst part is getting them to actually ship you the stuff. Those wheels are gorgeous in those wells.
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# ? Jan 20, 2015 22:29 |
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Thelonious posted:I'd check out the Hotchkis TVS kit. Looks like that'd knock out a good portion of your list in one swoop. Yeah, I'll be using their springs and maybe their swaybars. It'd be hell on my budget though. Plus, I already have pretty new tie rod sleeves. I keep thinking of more and more things that I want to do. Hard to not get ahead of myself. I've been reading up on Gen III/IVs a lot.
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# ? Jan 20, 2015 22:39 |
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:
The only thing I'd say is include safety impact in the list order. If subframe connectors will make the car more stable than swaybars, then do those first. The list makes sense to me though.
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# ? Jan 21, 2015 17:28 |
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So I'm pretty much over the stupid cold/flu hybrid that was kicking my rear end earlier this week and my garage is a balmy 48 degrees, so I figured I'd do a little work even if I don't have any new parts. First step was throwing a third of a bottle or so of diff fluid in the rear end and let it try to leak out. If it's still dry tomorrow, I'll put the other 2 bottles in and call that done. Something that's been nagging at me for a while is the meeting of the rear end and the leaf springs. Something I failed to take into account when I bought the 8.5" was that the car that it came off of had multi-leaf springs. My car has single leaf springs. The perches for multi-leaf cars are a lot deeper than on single leaf cars and my sad 40 year old rubber bushings weren't going to be able to fill the gap between the spring perch and the bottom plate. Pitiful bottom rubber pad: When I mounted the rear end up originally, I got pretty ghetto with it and just used some stuff to fill that gap, but it wasn't really substantial enough. I figured I had about an inch or so of space to fill so I started hunting around for some thick rubber mats. I found some options around, but they were all pretty steep and this is a temporary solution anyway. Eventually, I ran across some commercial flooring site that offered free samples of their 1" thick recycled rubber flooring. Jackpot. Ordered a couple sampled and crossed my fingers that they were going to be big enough. Hell yeah. So I trimmed it down and put a hole in it so it will lock in nicely to the corresponding peg on the perch. Not as long as the original pad, but it's long enough: Combined with the original top and bottom pads, the fit was perfect. U-bolts are torqued down and that axle doesn't budge. A resounding success. Like I said, this is a temporary solution. Once I get the new rear leaf springs, they are multi-leaf springs and will come with all new pads. While I was out there, I flipped around the parking brake arm on the driver's side so it will pull forward instead of backwards. The Camaro that I got the brakes from runs the parking brake cables backwards and up over the rear axle and then to the front of the car. That's a big dumb pain in the rear end so I'm going to just run them straight to the front of the car like the originals. Once I pick up some cables, I'll have another update. Until next time.
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# ? Jan 24, 2015 22:59 |
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:So I'm pretty much over the stupid cold/flu hybrid that was kicking my rear end earlier this week and my garage is a balmy 48 degrees, so I figured I'd do a little work even if I don't have any new parts. First step was throwing a third of a bottle or so of diff fluid in the rear end and let it try to leak out. If it's still dry tomorrow, I'll put the other 2 bottles in and call that done. I'm digging the ingenuity here, I wonder how well that new rubber pad will hold up in actual use - I'd drive cautiously and keep an eye on it. Nah, I wouldn't. I'd just add "potential rear end clunking" to my list of regular noises to listen for on a drive!
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# ? Jan 29, 2015 00:52 |
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jhcain posted:I'm digging the ingenuity here, I wonder how well that new rubber pad will hold up in actual use - I'd drive cautiously and keep an eye on it. I don't plan on driving on that for too long, but it didn't cost me a dime and it makes me feel a little better. Rear leaves will be the first purchase after wheels and tires, so I can't imagine many miles getting put on them.
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# ? Jan 29, 2015 06:05 |
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Halfway there. That 275 is pretty wide and I'm probably going to have to do a bit of massaging on those quarter panels to get everything happy. All good though. I figure I'll get the other front wheel and tire purchased and installed then I'll set the front down on ramps and start prepping for getting the engine back in. Parents are coming into town in April for my birthday, so I'm going to take advantage of another pair of hands and eyes and get it in that weekend.I think I'm going to scrub and paint the inner front fenders. They look pretty gnarly next to the nice pretty subframe. Until next time. Boaz MacPhereson fucked around with this message at 23:45 on Feb 14, 2015 |
# ? Feb 14, 2015 21:20 |
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Love those ford racing fender covers. Goes perfect on a nova. But in all seriousness those rims with that paint job is superb. I live by ohare and am free most weekends. If you ever need some help I feel helping you would be a better experience then when I went and help sperg.
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# ? Feb 15, 2015 17:47 |
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SouthsideSaint posted:Love those ford racing fender covers. Goes perfect on a nova. But in all seriousness those rims with that paint job is superb. I live by ohare and am free most weekends. If you ever need some help I feel helping you would be a better experience then when I went and help sperg. I was wondering if anyone would pick up on the fender cover. Once I start ripping the suspension apart, I may drop you a line. There's another goon over in Zion that offered a hand as well. Worst case Ontario - we all hang out and drink beer.
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# ? Feb 16, 2015 23:51 |
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I am also very good at sitting back and enjoying a fine car with a fine beer. just Pm me and let me know.
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# ? Feb 17, 2015 01:09 |
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Another front wheel showed up this morning. Hopefully I'll get a tire on it soon and get the front end back on the ground for the first time since October of 2013 (I think). The temperature reached a nice balmy 31 degrees today so I hit the garage for a few hours this afternoon. It's been way too long since I've actually worked on the car so it felt good just to be out there. I don't see it as a chore so that must be good, right? I've been thinking of doing this for a while and today was the warmest day we've had in quite some time so I figured I'd better go for it. The inner fenders are pretty nasty and I wanted to clean them up. Like most things, this could easily be solved by throwing money at a set of new inner fenders, but gently caress all that. I started with a good wipedown and vacuuming to get all the loose crap off. I then hit it with some Simple Green and a scrub brush to get some of grimier poo poo. Cleaned up the Simple Green and hit it hard with the wire brush on the grinder. Wiped it down with acetone and did a little masking and that brought me here: I should have taken a picture before I touched it at all. It looks tons better in that picture than when I started. Once all that was done, I hit it with 2 coats of semi-gloss Rustoleum. This picture is not long after the first coat so it's pretty glossy. In that second picture, keen eyes may notice that you can see a bit of the wheel well through the opening there. It's the part that looks like poo poo. It caught me a bit by surprise as well. Better clean those up, too. Before: Now, I had already scrubbed these up a while back with the SG and a brush, so I went straight to the grinder and wire brush. This was a huge pain in the rear end as my face shield would fog up near instantly as I was under there running the grinder. Anyway, got it cleaned up the best I could, masked off the fender lip, and hit it with the semi-gloss. Pretty happy with the results of today's work. In-laws were coming over so I had to wrap it up and hit the showers, but hopefully the weather will hold out a bit and I can get some work done on the drivers side tomorrow. I doubt I'll paint the engine bay side as it actually looks pretty good and there's a ton of poo poo in the way. I really don't want to take my master cylinder off again. Even if it's too cold to paint, I'd like to go pick up some grease and hit all the front suspension zerks so I can cross that off my list. Topic for discussion: How upset do you think the greybeards will be that I spent "all that money on a stupid four door" when I start dragging this pig to shows?
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# ? Feb 22, 2015 06:34 |
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Topic for discussion: How upset do you think the greybeards will be that I spent "all that money on a stupid four door" when I start dragging this pig to shows? gently caress 'em. They'll be dead soon and it won't matter what they like.
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# ? Feb 22, 2015 06:38 |
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:
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# ? Feb 23, 2015 02:34 |
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IT'S BACK ON THE GROUND. Sort of. The front is, anyway. Suspension is barely compressed as it's still missing 700ish pounds of drivetrain. Once that was done, I spend a few hours cleaning more poo poo up. I took the grill apart and started scrubbing that up when I started to run out of daylight and warmth. Green Scotchbrite pad is quite the tool. No pictures unfortunately, but I'll be sure to get some once it's all freshened up. 40 more days until the engine goes in so I'll try to keep myself occupied until then. Or who knows, maybe I'll lose patience and put the drat engine in myself. Dad might be a little disappointed, but I think I can live with that. One point of aggravation: I broke a stud off the exhaust manifold when I was taking the exhaust off originally. I've got about a quarter inch of stud poking out of the bottom of the flange and I just can't seem to get a tight enough clamp on it with the vise-grips. I hit it with a little heat today with a propane torch, but I don't know if propane has the heat to really get the job done. Any suggestions from the experts?
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# ? Mar 8, 2015 23:14 |
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YJi3G2oUOfY Although I haven't been able to find it in the SO catalog. There seem to be other brands available.
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# ? Mar 8, 2015 23:21 |
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the old guy at my work has this lisle one and it works great for getting the studs from an aluminum block so I imagine it would work on an older style of engine
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# ? Mar 8, 2015 23:57 |
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Weather was too nice today to not spend some time in the garage. Since I'm basically killing time for the next few weekends, I've been doing more cleaning and minor restoration. Big ticket items of the day were the headlight bezels and the grille. I didn't take any before pictures because I completely spaced, but both grille and bezels were pretty much bare of paint after 40 years of exposure. I scrubbed them up the best I could with a brillo pad and hit them with the black. Used the brillo pad to take the paint off the appropriate areas as well. Now the grille on this car was all silver with the exception of the far right and left vertical bars. That's the base model grille. The SS grille was blacked out with the exception of the top and bottom horizontal bars. I really like this look and I figured I could pull it off easily enough. I'm extremely happy with the results. Big swap meet tomorrow at the Lake County Fairgrounds so I'll hit that up and see if I get lucky with anything. I probably won't, but oh well.
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# ? Mar 15, 2015 03:42 |
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:One point of aggravation: I broke a stud off the exhaust manifold when I was taking the exhaust off originally. I've got about a quarter inch of stud poking out of the bottom of the flange and I just can't seem to get a tight enough clamp on it with the vise-grips. I hit it with a little heat today with a propane torch, but I don't know if propane has the heat to really get the job done. Any suggestions from the experts? Not an expert, but maybe a left handed drill bit?
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# ? Mar 15, 2015 04:03 |
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Swap meet was a bust. Kinda figured it would be. I was hoping to get lucky with some trim pieces or something, but no dice. Came home and changed the oil in the wife's car (allen key drain plug? Wtf Mazda?) so I dicked around with some stuff while I was getting dirty. Paint that I laid down on Saturday was nice and dry so I put the grille back together. Screwed the headlight bezels on to get an idea of what it was going to look like back on the car. I'm very happy. I hit the bezel screws with some paint after I took it apart so they won't look terrible once it goes back together for good. I really need a new filler panel (silver piece below the grille), but it's not the utmost concern at the moment. All this stuff will be coming off again down the road once I get a new engine ready to go in. A lot of the hardware for this stuff is pretty gnarly. I think I'll hit a hardware store sometime this week and get some replacements.
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# ? Mar 16, 2015 17:09 |
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:(allen key drain plug? Wtf Mazda?) Not on the engine, but GM does this on the gearbox drain for anything with the Getrag manual gearbox. On my car the drain plug is about 2 inches from the subframe, so it's impossible to ever drain the gearbox unless you cut down an allen key. ... which I've been saying I would do for over a year.
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# ? Mar 24, 2015 07:01 |
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some texas redneck posted:Not on the engine, but GM does this on the gearbox drain for anything with the Getrag manual gearbox. On my car the drain plug is about 2 inches from the subframe, so it's impossible to ever drain the gearbox unless you cut down an allen key. Eh, Mazda did that too on the MS3. Big-rear end hex (24mm, I think?) with next to no clearance, so I dremeled one in half.
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# ? Mar 24, 2015 17:59 |
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BMWs use hex head bolts for the trans and diff drain plugs too. 14mm and 17mm are the usual sizes. Sears sells a 4 pc set of huge 1/2" drivers that include both those sizes so you can use a breaker bar to get 'em out and a torque wrench to put them back in.
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# ? Mar 24, 2015 22:01 |
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Well, the tires are done. All four purchased, mounted, and bolted to the car. I'm pleased as all hell to get that done. I finally sold the wheels and tires that came with the car when I bought it so that did wonders for my budget. I just went and put the last one on the car and after I did it, I noticed that my rear axle is not centered or straight in the car. A bit annoying, but not world-ending. I'll have to pull the wheels off at some point in the near future and do some serious measuring. I'm thinking the back of the front wheel well and the front of the rear rotor should make decent reference points for getting it straight, but I'll have to figure something out for side-to-side. I think I'm going to need to do some massaging for the rear wheel openings as well, but that doesn't concern me too much. I'll be out of town all this weekend for a wedding, but I've got a couple more weekends to work before the engine is scheduled for reentry. T-minus 24 days.
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# ? Mar 25, 2015 01:15 |
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Another nice day today. Went out to the yard as they got another '73 in (a sedan this time) and I figured I'd go see if there was anything worth grabbing. Aside from a cage that had been fabbed and installed by Fence Posts and Booger Welds R Us, there wasn't really anything of note. Too bad. I managed to somewhat rectify the broken exhaust stud situation, so that's nice. Drilled the old stud out but did a bit of a crap job and got off center. I figure I'll throw a bolt and nut on it when it goes back in and call it GE. After all, those manifolds aren't going to be a permanent fixture anyway. You may have seen my post in the chat thread, but if you didn't, my pinion seal is leaking. I'm super loving excited about pulling that axle off and loving around with that. Can't wait. I'm not going to worry about it until I get the new rear leaves. I'll get that fixed and get it mounted nice and straight. My birthday's next week so hopefully I'll get some parts and/or money for parts. I've actually got a bonus coming from work, but I have a feeling that's going to get chewed up by new tires on the Mustang. If I miraculously have any left over after the tires, it will go towards the budget. Engine's going in on Saturday morning when my dad's here. Once that's in, leaves will be next in a month or two. Edging ever closer.
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# ? Apr 11, 2015 21:23 |
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# ? Jun 10, 2024 13:12 |
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some texas redneck posted:Not on the engine, but GM does this on the gearbox drain for anything with the Getrag manual gearbox Weird as hell having these 4 sided female sockets and male plugs for diff and gearboxes. Good to see they've gone from 4 sides( aka robertson or your bare ratchet), to hex Fo3 fucked around with this message at 12:09 on Apr 12, 2015 |
# ? Apr 12, 2015 12:04 |