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Root Bear posted:
Can I ask what brand goggles these are? I tried googling the part numbers but came up empty. Thanks!
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Dec 31, 2014 18:29
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schwim posted:Can I ask what brand goggles these are? I tried googling the part numbers but came up empty. From the last page! Root Bear posted:Here you go!
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Dec 31, 2014 18:59
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Uthor posted:From the last page! Thanks so much for that and I apologize for missing the very obvious 
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Dec 31, 2014 19:01
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So it finally dawned on me that I probably need something that can cut square tubing. I have a sawzall and an air grinder, but I'm guessing they're not going to work well for 45 degree cuts. Should I get a chop saw or what?
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Jan 2, 2015 19:54
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revmoo posted:So it finally dawned on me that I probably need something that can cut square tubing. I have a sawzall and an air grinder, but I'm guessing they're not going to work well for 45 degree cuts. Chop saw or a band saw would work. The chop saw would be easiest, and if that's all you're going to cut then go for that. But the band saw would be more flexible overall.
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Jan 2, 2015 19:56
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I would go for a horizontal bandsaw if you want a nice finish, chopsaw if you don't give a gently caress. The hackerspace I'm part of has one of these http://www.harborfreight.com/horizontal-vertical-metal-cutting-bandsaw-93762.html as our backup horizontal bandsaw if the nice one is out of comission for whatever reason. It works pretty well.
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Jan 2, 2015 20:07
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That's the one I have. My only complaint is that the blade doesn't come down perfectly vertically on the table, so a cut through say a piece of 3x3 box tube ends up being about 1/16" out of square vertically. No real way to adjust it, as far as I can tell. Normally I'm prepping things that are going to have big fat welds put on them anyways, and then slammed into rock ledges, so I don't really give a drat about that little inaccuracy, just means I have to actually clamp/fixture things square before welding them instead of slamming them together and welding.
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Jan 2, 2015 20:18
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Yikes, that is pricey. I was thinking more along the lines of: http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-55-amp-cut-off-saw-61204.html Though I get the impression you really need to swap out the blade right away which is $$$ I want a good finish but I figured I could hit it with the grinder after cutting. Mostly I just want accurate angles so I don't pull my hair out welding stuff together. EDIT: By the way if I wanted to do wood/metal, can a regular miter saw do both with just different blades?
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Jan 2, 2015 20:18
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What thickness stock are you cutting? If it's over 1/4", even the Ridgid chopsaw I have (http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-14-in-Abrasive-Cut-Off-Machine-R4142/202201510) really labors to cut at a reasonable rate. Not sure I'd trust that one to do anything but piss me off.
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Jan 2, 2015 20:23
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I doubt I'll ever cut anything over 1/4" ever, though it's possible I'd go to that level of thickness
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Jan 2, 2015 20:33
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I think I want a metal band saw down the road.... Right now I'm just sticking to angle grinders, saw zall and a jig saw with a metal blade
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Jan 2, 2015 20:37
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kastein posted:What thickness stock are you cutting? If it's over 1/4", even the Ridgid chopsaw I have (http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-14-in-Abrasive-Cut-Off-Machine-R4142/202201510) really labors to cut at a reasonable rate. Not sure I'd trust that one to do anything but piss me off. I cut off a chunk of 3" aluminum stock with the HF band saw. I started with the nice big band saw, had to switch to a chop saw when the blade popped off of that, then switched to the HF band saw because the chop saw sounded like death and was taking its sweet time. The HF band saw kinda sucks and feels like it's made of paper mache, but it works.
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Jan 2, 2015 21:40
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You can get aluminum cutting wheels for chop saws? poo poo, I had no idea.
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Jan 2, 2015 23:01
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In all likelihood, I was Doing It Wrong.
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Jan 2, 2015 23:04
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revmoo posted:Yikes, that is pricey. I was thinking more along the lines of: http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-55-amp-cut-off-saw-61204.html I bought that chop saw from HF when I was swapping the engine into the Corolla and making a new crossmember out of square tube. Worked fine for that, and is still working. Only sees occaisional use whenever I'm working with square tube/bar stock stuff.
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Jan 2, 2015 23:06
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Safety Dance posted:In all likelihood, I was Doing It Wrong. If you were using the steel wheel on it, please don't do that  Using a steel grinding wheel on soft metals like copper, brass, and aluminum not only loads the wheel up, it can spot overheat it and cause the wheel to blow apart... and naturally assume an outward trajectory. There are actually special wheels designed to grind and cut aluminum, but they're not often encountered.
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Jan 2, 2015 23:31
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Picked this up for free from a friend. It's definitely a little tired, but it runs fine and just needs the end of the plug replaced as the ground is broken off.  I don't know if this thing is worth anything, but it seems pretty decent?
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Jan 3, 2015 00:53
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Baldor makes good tools. That one looks well used and missing the tool rests/safety shields. Clean it up a little, search ebay for some tool rests and enjoy having one of the last USA made quality grinders. If not, I'll buy it from you, haha. *Edit* Let me google that for you... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Baldor-612R...=item3f2fcde2a8 the spyder fucked around with this message at 01:44 on Jan 3, 2015 |
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Jan 3, 2015 00:55
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 I found these tools while cleaning out an old toolbox and have no idea what they are for. The thing on the left's wire goes up into a handle to make a T shape and I found two of them. It seems like the toolbox was just a random grab bag of specialty items, so it would be nice to figure out what the gently caress they are since it seems like these were actually manufactured somewhere (Despite not having any markings that would indicate a company or model or anything of the sort), not just thrown together. More pictures can be taken as needed.
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Jan 3, 2015 02:17
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The one on the left looks like a windscreen seal cutter (but with the cutting tip snapped off), and the one on the right is a bore honer that's missing its stones. 
InitialDave fucked around with this message at 02:29 on Jan 3, 2015 |
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Jan 3, 2015 02:25
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Bore honer? I'm generally used to hearing the word bore in relation to an engine, but I don't see this doing much in that instance? Also, I found 2-3 of the first one, so I may just need to see if one is complete.
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Jan 3, 2015 03:34
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the stones on the bore hone in initial dave's picture are harder than the iron or alloys used for engine blocks, thus, when spun on a fancy drill press with cutting fluid and with a mock head torqued in place on the block the hone will slowly widen the diameter of the bore.
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Jan 3, 2015 03:41
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Sorry for the potato camera work, but I picked up some of those kobalt gearless ratchets on sale last week, and hit the handles with some plasti-dip.   They're late gifts for some dudes who are starting careers as auto mechanics. I hope they like them. Plastidip is the poo poo though. I gotta say I like the dipping can better than the rattlecan, it goes on thicker and much more even.
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Jan 3, 2015 03:58
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TWSS posted:the stones on the bore hone in initial dave's picture are harder than the iron or alloys used for engine blocks, thus, when spun on a fancy drill press with cutting fluid and with a mock head torqued in place on the block the hone will slowly widen the diameter of the bore. Ah. So I'm not using it without a drill press. Got it. I'm slowly going through the piles of tools I got when the owner of said tools passed away. Its a huge mixture of home improvement and automotive repair stuff mixed in with the pile of tools I got from my grandfather when he passed. Its just a matter of going through it all and seeing what works and what I need. For example I thought the big pile of books were all manuals, it turns out most of it is parts catalogs for MGs with only 2-3 shop manuals for mid 60's MGs. And a random fuel pump still in its box being used for a book end.   
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Jan 3, 2015 04:16
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I just finished putting together a welding cart (amazing friday night I know) from HF. I was surprised how long it took, 45 minutes or so. It's a lot sturdier than the display model, so I'm hoping everything stays tight with the lock washers. If not, I suppose I can just give it a few welds.
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Jan 3, 2015 06:48
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revmoo posted:So it finally dawned on me that I probably need something that can cut square tubing. I have a sawzall and an air grinder, but I'm guessing they're not going to work well for 45 degree cuts. If you have an existing wood chop saw that you don't care much about (via magnets and steel shavings), or can find one on cragslist, there are also these options: http://www.lowes.com/pd_367710-2830...lade&facetInfo= or http://www.lowes.com/pd_349246-2999...tion&facetInfo= Advantages: fast, precise cutting with few sparks (seems to be faster than a band saw or a grinding blade, more precise than a metal chop saw with a grinding blade. Disadvantages: Not cheap and they may wear out quicker than advertised. Check the rpm of your saw and match a blade to it. Personal experience: I had to do abut 100 square cuts on 1 x 1/8 (or so} square tubing post haste for a project (customer deadline). Had been using a 10 inch grinding blade with slow, imprecise, and sparky results. Got the lenox blade as it matched my wood chop saw rpm and may have been the cheaper option at the time (I had just retired the wood saw to metal duties, having acquired a larger version for wood cutting). Very quick and square cuts, with no sparks until the blade started wearing out. Which it did, probably because I pushed it too hard, whereupon sparks and slowness ensued, requiring a second blade. Or so I thought until I found out about : http://www.harborfreight.com/120-volt-circular-saw-blade-sharpener-96687.html Which you should also buy if you can't wait for your local sharpener's 2 week wait time and have gobs of wood and metal blades to sharpen post haste. The HF sharpener is mighty fiddly, but can be conquered if you're not too OCD (or maybe it helps if you are) and can find the secret YouTube videos about it. (Hint: search for "harbor freight item 96687.) Otteration fucked around with this message at 07:46 on Jan 3, 2015 |
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Jan 3, 2015 07:39
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Elmnt80 posted:Ah. So I'm not using it without a drill press. Got it. You can use a honing tool on a handheld electric drill. Recommended by some people (and most manuals) to be done when you fit new piston rings to an engine.
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Jan 3, 2015 11:31
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Elmnt80 posted:Bore honer? I'm generally used to hearing the word bore in relation to an engine, but I don't see this doing much in that instance? Also, I found 2-3 of the first one, so I may just need to see if one is complete.  on a seal kit rather than ten or more times that on a new cylinder).A caveat is that you probably shouldn't use them on things like BMWs with Nicasil lined bores, as you'll likely just trash the coating. The tips for the screen seal cutters are available separately, they bolt in.  Elmnt80 posted:For example I thought the big pile of books were all manuals, it turns out most of it is parts catalogs for MGs with only 2-3 shop manuals for mid 60's MGs.
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Jan 3, 2015 14:16
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Welding porn: http://imgur.com/gallery/lPBkx
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Jan 6, 2015 04:04
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mod sassinator posted:Welding porn: http://imgur.com/gallery/lPBkx Nice, but I feel like I've seen better from forum superstar Ultimateforce.
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Jan 6, 2015 04:10
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I just picked up a cheap 110v flux core welder tonight so I can start teaching myself how to weld, so that gallery is going to be good motivation.
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Jan 6, 2015 08:08
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I'm curious what are the springs on the headers here for: Is it something like they have really wide tolerances when cold and then seal as they heat up, but need the springs to keep them together when cold?
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Jan 6, 2015 09:45
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What's the easiest way into a full-size oxy setup? I keep seeing the actual hardware on craigslist and can probably find a cart on there too, but I'd like to not get gouged on the oxygen and acetylene tanks.
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Jan 6, 2015 15:50
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What I did was pay 250 bucks for a cart, torch, hoses, regulators, and full tanks. Then I emptied the tanks and found out they were ten years out of hydro when I tried to have them refilled. Fortunately they passed. Then the regulators ended up being pretty junky, and me using them outside and leaving them outside (connected to tanks) didn't help. Things to check when buying used tanks: make sure they are in hydro. If the date is coming up real soon, empty them quick and go to a place that exchanges tanks instead of sending yours in for filling. Not your problem anymore! Make sure they aren't rented tanks. If they are, you can't really buy them and only the place that rented them will refill, and there may be back rental fees or something. The serial number and a name stamped into the neck of the bottle where the valve screws in will tell you this, if you see that, call the company listed and find out if they're paid off. mod sassinator posted:I'm curious what are the springs on the headers here for: Rather than using fasteners or spring bolts, they just pull the two halves together. Usually used with a spherical seat in my experience, allows a bit of misalignment and thermal expansion.
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Jan 6, 2015 16:25
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mod sassinator posted:I'm curious what are the springs on the headers here for: Having recently spent an afternoon on my back like a $2 whore underneath the Mini to reconnect the LCB/collector connection after it separated, I wish I had some springs like that in place. Even clamped the gently caress down with u-bolts, I have no doubt that heat and pressure will cause the two pipes to eventually separate again, renewing the exhaust leak, etc. .
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Jan 6, 2015 17:13
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So does anyone have a particular brand of retractable air hose / reel that they like? I've had a Campbell Hausfeld 50' one for a couple of years and while I liked it, the hose has now developed a really loving annoying tendency to kink on the reel itself. It's one of the enclosed plastic deals so while I'm going to take a stab at removing the hose and replacing it with a HF rubber hose... I have my doubts that it will be successful.
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Jan 6, 2015 17:43
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I can vouch for the Goodyear EP air hose: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0038MD0V8. They don't kink, and have been wearing pretty well for a couple years of semi-regular use. Based on that, I'm looking at this Goodyear-branded hose reel, but don't have any experience with it: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LQ7WKM
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Jan 6, 2015 22:29
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Well, last night I picked up babby's first welder, the el-cheapo Harbor Freight 110v 90a wire feed flux core welder: http://www.harborfreight.com/welding/mig-flux-welders/90-amp-ac-120-volt-flux-cored-welder-68887.html My parents gave me a $100 Harbor Freight gift card for xmas and I couldn't think of anything else I needed from there (I could use a good electric impact gun, but the ones at HF are crappy and not significantly cheaper than some of the other, better brands, so not worth it to me) So here's my first time welding, on what was clean, new 1/8" cold rolled sheet steel:  The cheap flux core wire that came with it is made in China and is (from what I've read) notoriously crappy and creates a lot of spatter and crud; from what I've heard from other people who've bought this welder, getting better wire (and moving from the .030" it comes with to .035" wire) helps a lot with getting cleaner welds. The first attempts were just as boogery as I'd expected, but after a couple tries I got the wire feed speed dialed in better and was starting to get the hang of it (the ones at the bottom of that pic are the newest, the really boogery long ones in the upper middle were the first beads). I have a ways to go 
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Jan 7, 2015 00:45
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IOwnCalculus: http://www.harborfreight.com/retractable-hose-reel-with-50-ft-air-hose-69265.html I've had the 25' version for 5 years, and it works great. As far as I can tell, it's pretty much leak free, rewinds easily, and has a plenty strong rewind action. I find it helpful that it's not enclosed, so I can see if the hose is winding back on oddly or anything like that.
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Jan 7, 2015 01:50
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HotCanadianChick posted:Well, last night I picked up babby's first welder, the el-cheapo Harbor Freight 110v 90a wire feed flux core welder: We need a welding thread. I got the 170 HF 240volt model and I've been playing around with it. It's extremely easy and I've been joining thin wall square tubing all day. The one drawback I can identify so far is that it's a little tricky to get the right amperage when you only have essentially four binary switches to control output. A rotary knob would be worth an extra 50 bucks I think. Definitely need to upgrade to MIG though, the fumes are insane, even though I'm wearing a respirator. I open the garage up to ventilate and I can smell it from my back porch. BTW definitely get Lincoln wire, Lowes or HD should have it. I'm running Lincoln .030 and it is a ton better than what the machine came with.
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Jan 7, 2015 03:49
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