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Or you have poo poo like my house where I have a crawl space outside of the envelope and a 25ft run to the bathroom literally on the opposite side of the house 
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Jan 1, 2015 00:28
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Echeveria posted:I realized that after I posted, then spent an hour searching for the service manual. All I could find were schematics of the parts, nothing about error codes. The Bosch website provides service manuals but my model number was not available. SO HELPFUL THANKS BOSCH. I'll keep looking tomorrow, and I'll disconnect the drat thing and pull it out and check the float and float switch. I really need a voltmeter. http://www.mediafire.com/download/yzntnzeghbj/BoschDishwasherSearsServiceManual.pdf It was on the first page of google results searching for "bosch <model #>". Dishwashers suck. I spent 3 or 4 hours last weekend disassembling and cleaning mine after some broken glass got into the impellers.
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Jan 1, 2015 01:46
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Cpt.Wacky posted:http://www.mediafire.com/download/yzntnzeghbj/BoschDishwasherSearsServiceManual.pdf Welp I must have been doing something wrong. Thanks for finding it. I doubt the hardware store will be open tomorrow. I can borrow my dad's voltmeter, but then that means he'll insist on helping me. That's not necessarily a bad thing, but 1. he's 72 and I feel guilty watching him climb under my sink, and 2. he's uhhh really stubborn, and will often go on wild goose chases. It get's done, it's just that sometimes it takes a whole weekend.
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Jan 1, 2015 02:24
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Echeveria posted:Welp I must have been doing something wrong. Thanks for finding it. I doubt the hardware store will be open tomorrow. I can borrow my dad's voltmeter, but then that means he'll insist on helping me. That's not necessarily a bad thing, but 1. he's 72 and I feel guilty watching him climb under my sink, and 2. he's uhhh really stubborn, and will often go on wild goose chases. It get's done, it's just that sometimes it takes a whole weekend. Sorry for the double post. I read through the manual and it seems like the single flash is the fill sensor. I will pull it out today and gently caress around with it.
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Jan 1, 2015 19:34
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Couple of questions. I replaced my sink today and discovered that the galvanized pipes feeding my hot water, at least, were rusted to poo poo inside after replacing the valve that basically disintegrated when I turned off my hot water feed.. I know I've got rusty pipes elsewhere in the house. I replaced the bits I could get to easily, and am now fantasizing about running PEX everywhere because why the gently caress not. I have water coming into the house in the basement, to a utility sink and washer, then it goes straight up into my kitchen on the first floor. The only other run is up to the bathroom on the second floor. That's slightly more complicated because I don't know where the piping is and I'd rather not take up my floor if I can avoid it. Is it reasonable to do a PEX migration in stages? Like, basement and kitchen and then bathroom when I get up the nerve? Second question - I have a regular tanked electric water heater. I don't have natural gas. I'm considering getting a propane tank installed so I can have a gas range. Are the propane tankless water heaters worth my time? Are they gas hogs? The propane dealer said I'd only need a 120 gallon tank if I was just running a range. My electricity is pretty darn cheap, but I think I'd need to run a new electrical service to run a proper electric tankless hot water system.
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Jan 2, 2015 07:41
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sbyers77 posted:Anything that is missing? And brand recommendations for a pump? I don't have a pump recommendation, but instead of a timer, maybe use a motion/occupancy sensor. I used to use a timer, but it annoyed me that it would circulate the water when it wasn't needed. I put an occupancy sensor in the bathroom, and now the pump only runs when someone enters the bathroom. It takes about 2-3 minutes for the hot water to reach the faucets/shower.
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Jan 2, 2015 15:30
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I like turtles posted:Second question - I have a regular tanked electric water heater. I don't have natural gas. I'm considering getting a propane tank installed so I can have a gas range. Take your electricity price and multiply it by 26.8 to get the equivalent price for a gallon of propane. If you're paying $0.07/kwH, that's equivalent to $1.86/gal propane. And since propane burners aren't 100% efficient, your propane price needs to be substantially lower than that to save any money over electric. If you want to switch to tankless to save money, it's not going to. If you want to spend a bunch of money so that you can feel "green", you can get a hybrid heat pump water heater, but you'll still be wasting your time.
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Jan 2, 2015 16:58
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I'm looking to add an air admittance vent under my sink because I'd like to have one sink full and drain the other and it not take forever. Is it as simple as cutting the drain, putting on a T pipe, an 90 bend and the cap? Will it work after the trap?
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Jan 2, 2015 21:26
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GUYS! GUYS! I grabbed a voltmeter today and I checked the fill switch and the float switch, and the plugs for them. Plug and/or wiring for fill switch is hosed. So now that I know what is wrong, I have no idea how to fix it! I really wish it was just the dead switch.
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Jan 3, 2015 02:28
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Echeveria posted:GUYS! GUYS! I grabbed a voltmeter today and I checked the fill switch and the float switch, and the plugs for them. Plug and/or wiring for fill switch is hosed. So now that I know what is wrong, I have no idea how to fix it! Didnt you just buy this thing? Was it new? How do you know it's plug/wiring?
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Jan 3, 2015 02:51
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No, it was given to us about 3 years ago (lightly used) by some friends of my parents, who were upgrading to stainless steel. I pulled the thing out and pried off the side panel. There are two switches, a fill switch and a float switch. Float switch is getting power, fill switch is not. It appears as though this wiring connects directly to the power cord. I can't find it listed as a part, though, so I'm not sure yet what that means for me an repairing it. Replacing blown switches I can do, but rewiring the dishwasher is not something I'm up for unless I can get it as a part that can be swapped out.
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Jan 3, 2015 07:15
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Zhentar posted:If you want to spend a bunch of money so that you can feel "green", you can get a hybrid heat pump water heater, but you'll still be wasting your time. In my case, I was also stuck with propane, and the math just didn't work out for tankless. The heat pump tanked water heater is installed inside the house, so it helps to cool and reduce humidity in the living space. With ~8 months of a/c usage in The South, most of the year the water heater is super efficient for me. And during our "winter " I can turn off the heat pump when the nights get below 30° f, and the unit is still very well insulated and doesn't cycle often. I believe I estimated it for -me- an average savings of $15-20/month. Possibly more in months it is also helping to cool the house. Not a huge amount, but if the water heater needs to be replaced and the installation location works out, the extra cost for a heat pump unit is worth considering.
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Jan 3, 2015 20:09
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Echeveria posted:No, it was given to us about 3 years ago (lightly used) by some friends of my parents, who were upgrading to stainless steel. I pulled the thing out and pried off the side panel. There are two switches, a fill switch and a float switch. Float switch is getting power, fill switch is not. It appears as though this wiring connects directly to the power cord. I can't find it listed as a part, though, so I'm not sure yet what that means for me an repairing it. Replacing blown switches I can do, but rewiring the dishwasher is not something I'm up for unless I can get it as a part that can be swapped out. You don't test switches by if they're getting power or not, you test them by turning off the power and then testing for continuity instead. Keep in mind that switches have TWO states to test, both on and off. Also, why are you guys all Garbage Dick?
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Jan 3, 2015 21:25
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angryrobots posted:I'd like to challenge that this is not necessarily a wasteful option, depending on your situation. I'm very happy with my hybrid, and it is a part of my low electricity bill. Oh, I totally agree; my advice there was 'I like turtles' specific; his profile places him in Washington with a very short cooling season and dirt cheap electricity. With a longer cooling season and normal electricity prices, I think they make a lot of sense.
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Jan 3, 2015 21:44
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kid sinister posted:Also, why are you guys all Garbage Dick? That appears to be the new newbie av as of a couple weeks ago.
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Jan 3, 2015 21:53
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kid sinister posted:You don't test switches by if they're getting power or not, you test them by turning off the power and then testing for continuity instead. Keep in mind that switches have TWO states to test, both on and off. I will check the switches while I'm at it, put the wiring still isn't conducting anything. I freely admit Ive no idea what I'm doing and I'm whinging it here. No idea how to test the switches but I'll google it in the morning.
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Jan 4, 2015 09:59
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Echeveria posted:No idea how to test the switches but I'll google it in the morning. Turn off the power. Set the multimeter to continuity mode, touch the probes to either side of the circuit (doesn't matter which) and see if the multimeter reads 0 Ohms (on) or open/OL (off). Activate the switch by yourself somehow, then see if it reads the opposite state as when you weren't activating it. If the switch tests as on and off when it respectively should, then it's a good switch.
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Jan 4, 2015 23:20
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Soooo. Good news, I guess? I was snooping around my dishwasher and decided nothing was wrong and I should try it again. And it's working. So, go me, I guess? I figure either when I replaced the solenoid/inlet valve, I either didn't let the dishwasher cycle long enough to start filling (unlikely) or the small amount of water pooled underneath the dishwasher wasn't letting it work, and it's dried up now, or my loving around with the switches reconnected one that came loose. I am observing it while it runs a whole cycle. It does not appear to be leaking, but I keep checking the bottom. I also threw a dishwasher cleaner in there because it was a bit moldy from when it broke mid wash while we were out of town.
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Jan 5, 2015 06:28
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So, being annoyed with the fact my new house only has a natural fireplace, I decided I wanted to turn it into a gas fireplace. Imagine my surprise when I look outside and there is already a gas line coming into the chimney. Hooray! Take a look inside of the fireplace and I see the following. Boo.  The previous owner apparently decided they didn't want a gas fireplace anymore, and bent off the pipe inside of the fireplace. Awesome. Thanks. What do I need to do to fix this? Can I simply tap into this existing copper line outside of the chimney? If so, what should I use? If I dig up the dirt below the copper piping, am I likely to find black pipe which would be much easier to tap off of? Just for more info about the house, the chimney is off of the family room ,which is on a slab. I have checked the gas line in the basement and I have not been able to identify which line could possibly be feeding the chimney. The gas main comes into the house on the complete other side of this chimney. END OF AN ERROR fucked around with this message at 00:55 on Jan 6, 2015 |
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Jan 6, 2015 00:51
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No telling what may be in that pipe at this point, and whether it's in any way up to code. Pull it and replace it in its entirety. Is copper even allowed for gas?
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Jan 6, 2015 00:56
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Bad Munki posted:No telling what may be in that pipe at this point, and whether it's in any way up to code. Pull it and replace it in its entirety. Is copper even allowed for gas? Also make sure to isolate the run/shut off the gas before you play with it.
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Jan 6, 2015 00:58
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Bad Munki posted:No telling what may be in that pipe at this point, and whether it's in any way up to code. Pull it and replace it in its entirety. Is copper even allowed for gas? here's the issue with that, that patch of dirt it is on, is about 3 square feet. Beyond that is all cement. So running all new line would involve replacing cement, which I'm not up to doing. Every gas fireplace I've seen around here has a gas line similar to mine. So if it isn't code, it once was. I just got the house 2 months ago, and it passed inspection with no word from an inspector (both my personal inspector and the bank inspector)
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Jan 6, 2015 01:02
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Bad Munki posted:Is copper even allowed for gas? It depends on your area, which mostly depends on historical hydrogen sulfide levels from local NG supplies. You can pretty much always use it with LP.
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Jan 6, 2015 01:17
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Oh, good point, that copper line may have originally gone to an LP supply.
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Jan 6, 2015 01:19
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I've seen gas fireplaces with their intake/exhaust ducting run horizontal through the wall besides the normal runs through a chimney.
The Gardenator fucked around with this message at 09:16 on Jan 6, 2015 |
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Jan 6, 2015 09:10
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The Gardenator posted:I've seen gas fireplaces with their intake/exhaust ducting run horizontal through the wall besides the normal runs through a chimney. Sure, that's pretty common, and is the norm in installations where there was no chimney, such as a new house. A gas fireplace is pretty much just a drop-in unit in new construction.
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Jan 6, 2015 15:54
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The Gardenator posted:I've seen gas fireplaces with their intake/exhaust ducting run horizontal through the wall besides the normal runs through a chimney. This doesn't happen when you have a real fireplace. This is for houses/rooms without fireplaces.
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Jan 9, 2015 16:59
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iForge posted:This doesn't happen when you have a real fireplace. This is for houses/rooms without fireplaces. Well, "real" as in "wood burning," yeah. But there are different levels of gas fireplaces, some are pretty deeply/permanently installed, and they go through the wall too.
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Jan 10, 2015 01:24
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For commercial flushometer toilets, does the actual toilet design have any influence on the flushometer flow rate? I see some toilets that are labeled "1.6 gpf". If you put a 3.5 flushometer on a toilet designed for 1.6 gpf would there be any negative effects? Same for a toilet originally fitted with a 3.5 gpf flushometer replaced by a 1.6 gpf flushometer on the original toilet. Any problems? Or are the toilets just labeled with the flow rate for the flushometers they were likely supplied with?
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Jan 10, 2015 18:57
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Hummer Driving human being posted:For commercial flushometer toilets, does the actual toilet design have any influence on the flushometer flow rate? I see some toilets that are labeled "1.6 gpf". If you put a 3.5 flushometer on a toilet designed for 1.6 gpf would there be any negative effects? Same for a toilet originally fitted with a 3.5 gpf flushometer replaced by a 1.6 gpf flushometer on the original toilet. Any problems? Or are the toilets just labeled with the flow rate for the flushometers they were likely supplied with? I think what you're asking is if it really matters if you match the flow rate marked on the toilet with the flushometer? If so, the answer is yes. If you put a 1.28gpf flushometer on a 3.5gpf bowl it's not going to flush. If you put a 3.5gpf flushometer on a 1.28 bowl it's either going to flush imporperly. If you mismatch with urinals you can even potentially overflow the urinal.
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Jan 11, 2015 01:40
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Jadunk posted:I think what you're asking is if it really matters if you match the flow rate marked on the toilet with the flushometer? If so, the answer is yes. If you put a 1.28gpf flushometer on a 3.5gpf bowl it's not going to flush. If you put a 3.5gpf flushometer on a 1.28 bowl it's either going to flush imporperly. If you mismatch with urinals you can even potentially overflow the urinal. That's what I was asking, thanks. I live in an older building with older fixtures and there's a Sloan 3.5 gpf flushometer on the toilet. When I flush it water gets pretty high in the bowl and swirls around pretty violent, sometimes with drops of water getting ejected out of the bowl. Does this sound like a flushometer that's sending water to a toilet not designed to handle that flow rate?
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Jan 11, 2015 03:13
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Hummer Driving human being posted:That's what I was asking, thanks. I live in an older building with older fixtures and there's a Sloan 3.5 gpf flushometer on the toilet. When I flush it water gets pretty high in the bowl and swirls around pretty violent, sometimes with drops of water getting ejected out of the bowl. Does this sound like a flushometer that's sending water to a toilet not designed to handle that flow rate? Could be that, could be water pressure /volume passthrough on the flushometer is higher than it should be. If you know how old the toilet bowl is you can sometimes guesstimate what the GPF rating on it is, lacking more info I would usually start by rebuilding the flushometer and trying to throttle down the angle stop.
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Jan 11, 2015 03:27
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Jadunk posted:Could be that, could be water pressure /volume passthrough on the flushometer is higher than it should be. If you know how old the toilet bowl is you can sometimes guesstimate what the GPF rating on it is, lacking more info I would usually start by rebuilding the flushometer and trying to throttle down the angle stop. I found out the building was renovated in 1994. I read somewhere that the 1992 energy act mandate for 1.6 gpf toilets went into effect in 1997 so I guess every bowl as well as every flushometer is still a 3.5 gpf. That would mean I would have to ask that every bowl as well as flushometer be replaced to get to 1.6 gpf, correct? Or can flushometers be retrofitted to have a lower gpf?
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Jan 20, 2015 01:19
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Hummer Driving human being posted:I found out the building was renovated in 1994. I read somewhere that the 1992 energy act mandate for 1.6 gpf toilets went into effect in 1997 so I guess every bowl as well as every flushometer is still a 3.5 gpf. That would mean I would have to ask that every bowl as well as flushometer be replaced to get to 1.6 gpf, correct? Or can flushometers be retrofitted to have a lower gpf? To reduce a toilet's flush volume in half like that, yes. You might be able to mess around with adjustable flappers to see how much you could lower the flush volume and still get the toilet to clear the bowl, but you won't get a 50% reduction.
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Jan 20, 2015 02:36
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Hummer Driving human being posted:I found out the building was renovated in 1994. I read somewhere that the 1992 energy act mandate for 1.6 gpf toilets went into effect in 1997 so I guess every bowl as well as every flushometer is still a 3.5 gpf. That would mean I would have to ask that every bowl as well as flushometer be replaced to get to 1.6 gpf, correct? Or can flushometers be retrofitted to have a lower gpf? Yes, flushometers can generally be retrofitting to be lower GPF, that said typically if I am changing out a toilet for a new one I usually change the flushometer at the same time as they usually are in rough shape.
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Jan 20, 2015 02:56
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Jadunk posted:Yes, flushometers can generally be retrofitting to be lower GPF, that said typically if I am changing out a toilet for a new one I usually change the flushometer at the same time as they usually are in rough shape. I'm in a college residence hall and the flushometers seem to be in pretty good shape. I haven't had any of them have major problems that I know of. The one in my room had to have the handle assembly and spud replaced but that's it. I'm trying to pitch a replacement of all toilets to administration to save water/money and am trying to figure out a cheaper alternative to "replace everything". Would it be realistic to say one option is replacement of all bowls and retrofit of all flushometers instead of replacing both? There are flushometers I've come across on campus that must be original to 1960s buildings. They're all Sloan Regals if that helps. Edit: Looking at Sloan's manuals, I see they sell "Inside Parts Kits" for various flush rates. Could someone simply install the 1.6 gpf kit into the 3.5 gpf body or would that cause problems? http://www.sloanvalve.com/Maintenance_Guides/0816185.pdf - at the bottom of the second page hummingbird hoedown fucked around with this message at 06:09 on Jan 20, 2015 |
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Jan 20, 2015 05:59
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I was messing with our fridge's water line on the weekend. Its plumbed off of the valve which controls the cold water to the kitchen sink. I turned that valve off to work on it. After I was done, I turned the valve back on, but no water came out of the kitchen faucet. In a moment of brilliance I also turned off / on the hot water valve under the sink to see if the same thing would happen. Then I had no water in the kitchen sink at all. I read online it could be an air lock somewhere in the system, so I ran all the taps in the house. Everything else works fine, no change in the kitchen. I poked around in the faucet with a length of 14 ga twisted strand electrical wire to see if some rust/mineral deposits/whatever had lodged in there (old house). On my father in laws suggestion I also used a shop vac to try suction anything in there out. I now have a trickle of water from the faucet after the wire/shop vac, but its like 5% of what was coming out before. Last night I took out the mixer valve in the tap, and it didn't appear to be blocked, seems to be working fine. The water pressure is the same for both hot and cold water. I couldn't feed a wire or even a small bent plastic ziptie into the tape from where the mixer goes into. Not sure if due to blockage or a sharp bend in the faucet itself. When I turned the valves on with the mixer out (and a plastic bag taped over the opening to direct water back into the sink) it felt like more water was coming out than when using the faucet itself, but not 100% sure honestly. Any suggestions on where to go from here?
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Jan 20, 2015 16:19
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GanjamonII posted:Faucet problems Have you tried looking at the aerator on the faucet? If something in the pipe came loose when you turned the water back on it might be blocking the flow restrictor in the aerator. Put something over the drain and unscrew the aerator and see if there's anything in there.
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Jan 20, 2015 20:35
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Hummer Driving human being posted:Have you tried looking at the aerator on the faucet? If something in the pipe came loose when you turned the water back on it might be blocking the flow restrictor in the aerator. Put something over the drain and unscrew the aerator and see if there's anything in there. Yeah I did that previously, ran about 2 feet of electrical wire into it before it stopped. Did get a tiny little bit of orange water/what I think was rust out of it initially, but not a lot.
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Jan 20, 2015 21:02
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GanjamonII posted:Yeah I did that previously, ran about 2 feet of electrical wire into it before it stopped. Did get a tiny little bit of orange water/what I think was rust out of it initially, but not a lot. Got a bucket and flexible supply lines? Shut off the the stop valves, then open both hot and cold on that faucet. Slowly take the supply lines off the bottom of your faucet. If they start leaking excessively, get ready to close that nut back up. If they don't, take them all the way off, point that end into the bucket, hold the line with one hand and slowly open that stop valve with the other hand. Test that out for both hot and cold and get back to us with your results. We'll tell you where to find your clog from there. Edit: and maybe put a lot of rags down in your cabinet first, just in case.
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Jan 21, 2015 04:00
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