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Daedalus Esquire posted:I've done ales that were 80% Pilsner, 20% carapils, lightly hopped and fermented with Brett on cardamom and blackberries. Yep, and it was delicious.
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Jan 3, 2015 00:39
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WilWheaton posted:52? Yeah you're stuck in lager territory there. You could make a nice dunkel. Bohemian lager yeast has been kindest to me so far with my cold-but-not-controlled temperatures (2124) but you'll need some kind of diacetyl rest at a warmer spot. I thought a lager needed a colder stage after the diacetyl rest? Or is that not really necessary?
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Jan 3, 2015 01:20
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Just finished up brewing the chai spiced winter wheat that I posted about a couple days ago. I decided I'm going to go the make tea and add it to the keg route so I can test the strength. I'll make a cup of it and toss some in the keg first and then taste after racking to decide if it needs more. Really happy with how things came out. I hit my efficiency dead on and got my 1.077 OG that I was shooting for which if my yeast starter does it job should knock it down to about 1.022 and give me 7.4% ABV. I picked up my tea the other day for it too. I bought both a white chai and a rooibos chai and I'm debating which one to go with. The white tea should have low tannins and the rooiboss should have none. I'm sort of leaning toward the rooiboss because of that. Edit: Man am I glad I started with a blowoff valve, this thing is taking off like a rocket. rockcity fucked around with this message at 17:09 on Jan 3, 2015 |
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Jan 3, 2015 01:53
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WilWheaton posted:52? Yeah you're stuck in lager territory there. You could make a nice dunkel. Bohemian lager yeast has been kindest to me so far with my cold-but-not-controlled temperatures (2124) but you'll need some kind of diacetyl rest at a warmer spot. This is around the temp I'm fermenting my milk stout at US05 yeast. Should I bring it to a warmer part for the second half of fermentation for a week or so?
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Jan 3, 2015 02:23
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toe knee hand posted:It's gotten cold and my basement is a relatively constant 52 degrees. I don't have a fermentation chamber. I've been doing ales but I think that's a bit low for ales and yet it's too high for lagers (or at least for the conditioning phase of lagers?). What should I brew? What yeast would be happiest? You should probably just drop $30 on a FermWrap heater for your fermenter. Or you could just do a ghetto version of the same with a heating pad and some blankets. Bump up the fermentation temp to 60 and you could use a Kolsch yeast.
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Jan 3, 2015 04:50
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more falafel please posted:Pilsner malt will be very light with a slight breadiness. It's very pleasant. Ales I've done that were mostly pilsner malt include Saisons, Belgian Golden Strong, and Hefeweizen (50/50 pils and wheat). I did a wort kit for dad recently that was 100% Dingemans belgian pils, 15 IBU of late Saaz and that was it. Sent him on his way with some Danstar Belle Saison and it came out quite well. Basically a saison/patersbier at around 4% ABV
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Jan 3, 2015 07:25
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Went to pitch my Kolsch today and instincts tell me straight away it is probably goin to be infected  I use barrel type fermenters (copper tun) with cling film over them and the rubber seal from the lid as a rubber band essentially, anyway went to pitch it today and didn't notice there was water on top of the wrap, as my ferm fridge has a freezer with some holes drilled between for air flow, so some of the water that had previously been ice fell into the beer. I pitched anyway, the starter was super healthy so I guess I'll just wait and see. Worst case, the worms in the back yard get some malt vinegar, slightly less worse case I turn out something awesome, best case, no infection, I produce an awesome Summer saaz kolsch
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Jan 3, 2015 07:33
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Harminoff posted:Well poo poo. Guess I'll not use a starter and just hope for the best then  Not that I would mix strains like that.
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Jan 3, 2015 08:54
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McSpergin posted:Went to pitch my Kolsch today and instincts tell me straight away it is probably goin to be infected Thats awesome
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Jan 3, 2015 16:25
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Jacobey000 posted:This is 100% true for me too. I've brewed complex sours, oak aged quads, all kinds of crazy/boss stuff and most people were all up on the Kolsch. Great news, as I am planning on buying a sack of Maris Otter and German Pils and making very simple recipes for the entire year to see how they go.
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Jan 3, 2015 17:37
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ScaerCroe posted:Great news, as I am planning on buying a sack of Maris Otter and German Pils and making very simple recipes for the entire year to see how they go. Where are getting them from?
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Jan 3, 2015 17:41
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Fluo posted:Secret Santa turned up! Lmao, turns out this was from a different secret santa I was doing. So my homebrew one is yet to come. And almost got my stuff together to send out but it's all cool homebrew secret santa is more :chill: about dates (atleast the last few years).  After such a large amount of yeast pitched OG stopped at 1.016 from 1.086, its got a slight sweetness but not sickly sweet. I think I shall save the yeast and rebrew it with the second generation to try and see. Dry hopped each day for 7 days, first 3 days were C hop blend, last 4 days was German Hull Melon.
Fluo fucked around with this message at 19:37 on Jan 3, 2015 |
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Jan 3, 2015 19:28
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stuff direct from goon to goon, got most the stuff sorted out already!
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Does anyone have any experience with those Perlick flow restricting faucets? They're expensive, but my kegerator only has two taps so I wouldn't have to buy more than two, and I really like the idea of being able to fill growlers without having to dig way in the back and loving with my serving pressure. I was going to upgrade to Perlicks anyway, so I thought I'd listen to people's thoughts on those.
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Jan 3, 2015 20:18
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crazyfish posted:Does anyone have any experience with those Perlick flow restricting faucets? They're expensive, but my kegerator only has two taps so I wouldn't have to buy more than two, and I really like the idea of being able to fill growlers without having to dig way in the back and loving with my serving pressure. I was going to upgrade to Perlicks anyway, so I thought I'd listen to people's thoughts on those. I've only used them in bars, ie on a commercial setup but I wouldn't have it any other way if I could help it, if you are changing kegs a lot or, like you envision, need flow control for other reasons.
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Jan 3, 2015 23:20
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Kaiho posted:I've only used them in bars, ie on a commercial setup but I wouldn't have it any other way if I could help it, if you are changing kegs a lot or, like you envision, need flow control for other reasons. They're also good if you want to mess with your Carb Levels on various beers without having to re-balance your lines for every new beer.
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Jan 4, 2015 00:20
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jadeddrifter posted:Where are getting them from? My LHBS
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Jan 4, 2015 05:57
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I hope no one else had thirsty hop plants over the new year break!  
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Jan 4, 2015 06:48
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Seems like you could have rigged up some kind of trickle-waterer from the disused heavy bag.
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Jan 4, 2015 06:51
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I was thinking about leaving it in a couple of cm of water, but that would have been a better idea. Fortunately after a couple of hours watering the leaves on one of the runners softened up
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Jan 4, 2015 10:55
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So, for my local secret santa, one of my friends got me an ounce each of northern brewer/east kent goldings/cascade hops, and a pound of crystal 40l, among other things. I was thinking about getting another couple of ounces of cascade and some kind of base malt to make a smash. Do people ever use marris otter for pale ales? That's pretty much all I ever brew with, but I don't know how that would work with a hoppier/less malty style. I suppose I could make a brown ale or ESB using the other stuff...
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Jan 4, 2015 23:08
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I really like Marris Otter in all sorts of pales and hoppy beers.
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Jan 5, 2015 00:07
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ChickenArise posted:I really like Marris Otter in all sorts of pales and hoppy beers. Cool, I guess I'll do that then.
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Jan 5, 2015 00:10
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I'm thinking of doing a Vienna/Nelson SMaSH for my next brew. Any thoughts?
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Jan 5, 2015 03:47
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HatfulOfHollow posted:I'm thinking of doing a Vienna/Nelson SMaSH for my next brew. Any thoughts? Pitch saison yeast? v0v ScaerCroe posted:Great news, as I am planning on buying a sack of Maris Otter and German Pils and making very simple recipes for the entire year to see how they go. That is a pretty neat idea actually. Sadly, I brew so many hay-colored beers as it stands no one would notice. Also: I don't know how often you brew, but I buy in bulk to and I FLY through it - much faster than I had thought I would. Just as a fair warning. McSpergin posted:Went to pitch my Kolsch today and instincts tell me straight away it is probably goin to be infected I know you've got your setup how you like it, but for the love of all things holy, just stick a god drat lid on those things. iirc this plastic wrap buisness is WAY more complicatned/exploits possible infections points than it's worth. 2015 beer resolution for you: buy some gamma lids or 'air tight' lids.
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Jan 5, 2015 05:31
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HatfulOfHollow posted:I'm thinking of doing a Vienna/Nelson SMaSH for my next brew. Any thoughts? All-vienna is fantastic for lots of styles (with northern brewer and wyeast 2112 is my latest favorite) , and the nelson part depends on how you feel about it. It can be overpowering when used alone so I'd go a bit light on the first trial of a recipe unless you know you're into it. The only other tip I have is use German malt, Avangard and Best Malz vienna (haven't used Weyermann but I assume it's similar) are miles ahead of something like Briess.
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Jan 5, 2015 05:53
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I did a vienna/northern brewer smash and it turned out awful. For some reason it tastes smokey like a rauchbier, which I wasn't expecting. Thankfully my wife could stomach it, I couldn't stand the stuff. I'm done with vienna malt unless I find out the recipe was poo poo or that northern brewer sent me something other than vienna malt.
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Jan 5, 2015 07:26
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toe knee hand posted:I thought a lager needed a colder stage after the diacetyl rest? Or is that not really necessary? Yes, put it back downstairs once that's done for a couple of days, get it even colder if you can though. Marshmellow Blue posted:This is around the temp I'm fermenting my milk stout at US05 yeast. Should I bring it to a warmer part for the second half of fermentation for a week or so? I've never tried fermenting s-05 that cold but I'm told it gets a peachy flavour when stressed in the lower range. I wouldn't see the harm in bringing it warmer for a tiny bit after primary fermentation is done but I'm not really an expert. Never hurts to cold crash after though.
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Jan 5, 2015 07:29
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Jacobey000 posted:just stick a god drat lid on those things. iirc this plastic wrap buisness is WAY more complicatned/exploits possible infections points than it's worth. For what it's worth I haven't had one infection since the switch from lids with airlocks over to cling film, on the recommendation of several Brewers club members. Mainly it comes down to not being able to readily find bucket type fermenters locally, and the ones with airlocks having handles on the lid that when pulled on, create negative pressure in the fermenter and suck the contents of the airlock in. I've had more infections with lids than without  mind you it's also rare that that fridge runs cold enough for the freezer to be actually freezing, and I always spray the entire inside with Starsan prior to anything going in. Here is hoping it turns out I guess, if not shame on me for not noticing the water
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Jan 5, 2015 14:06
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WilWheaton posted:I've never tried fermenting s-05 that cold but I'm told it gets a peachy flavour when stressed in the lower range. I wouldn't see the harm in bringing it warmer for a tiny bit after primary fermentation is done but I'm not really an expert. Never hurts to cold crash after though. Well I'm actually moving, and my new place includes heat so I can keep my beer at a balmy 65 all winter! So that takes care of that. It's a Oatmeal milk stout (buffalo sweat kit) that's the color of spent motor oil, so a cold crash won't do me too good as far as clarity is concerned. Also for all y'all sour brewers. ECY BugCounty is in stock http://www.love2brew.com/ECY-BugCounty-ECY20-p/lyec20.htm . I already ordered me a vial.
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Jan 5, 2015 14:43
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Jacobey000 posted:
Ya, I figured I would probably need a re-up or two a year. I was also planning on mainly doing session ales, so ~10# base grain per batch, with ~100# in two sacks, which leads to 10 batches of beer.
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Jan 5, 2015 15:39
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Ok, I'm hopefully approaching order day for 3 batches of beer. These are my recipes, Thoughts? 1. Dr. Rye - Rye Pale Ale - Target OG: 1.057 Target FG: 1.011 6% ABV --5 Gallons 10 Lbs Pale Ale Malt 1lb Flaked Rye 1lb Rye Malt 1lb C60 Hops 1oz Magnum @60 2oz cascade @1 1oz Centennial @1 US-05 2. Clearwater Blonde Ale - Target OG: 1.044 Target FG: 1.009 4.3 - 4.6% ABV --5 Gallons 8 Lbs Pilsner Malt 1 Lb Carapils 1lb C20 Hops .5oz Willamette @80 1oz Sterling @12 .5oz Willamette @3 1oz Amarillo @3 US-05 3. Deep Winter Sour - Target OG: 1.050 Target FG: 1.007 or Lower 5.5 - 6% ABV --3 Gallons Not 5 5Lbs Red Wheat Malt 1Lb C120 .5lb Maltodextrin ECY 20 Bug County Playing with the idea of No boil (just a 180 degree pasteurization) Thoughts on this?
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Jan 5, 2015 18:14
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Marshmallow Blue posted:Ok, I'm hopefully approaching order day for 3 batches of beer. These are my recipes, Thoughts? Lighten or reduce the crystal. C60 is pretty dark. quote:2. Once again, that's probably too much crystal/carapils. quote:3. No hops at all? Maybe throw some super low AA Hallertau or other noble hops in the mash?
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Jan 5, 2015 18:51
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crazyfish posted:Lighten or reduce the crystal. C60 is pretty dark. OK, I turned down the SRM on the crystal malts to 10L (from 20) for the blonde ale and 15L (from 60) for the Pale Ale. I did however keep them at a pound as I've always used a pound and always like the results (maybe I have a sweet tooth or something, or It's just what I expect my beers to be? And I'm the only one who drinks them for the most part. My brother in Law will have a bottle or two and my father in law I think is weirded out by it not coming form a store and has yet to try a beer I've made.) I did some reading on carapils and turned that down to half a pound. I was toying back and forth with a touch (.5oz) of Willamette on the sour, so that's back in for the mash and mashout. Thanks for the tips, I think these recipes are pretty solid now.
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Jan 5, 2015 19:17
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Marshmallow Blue posted:3. Why wouldn't you boil this beer? Also get like 10-15 IBUs of hops in there or it'll taste weird.
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Jan 5, 2015 20:05
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Josh Wow posted:Why wouldn't you boil this beer? Also get like 10-15 IBUs of hops in there or it'll taste weird. It kind of stemmed off of the no hops thing, but with adding hops back in, I might as well boil.
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Jan 5, 2015 20:22
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Actually, another thing I noticed: Does red wheat malt have much diastatic power? If not, you'll probably need some 6-row or pils in there to help convert, otherwise your efficiency is going to be dogshit. And a pound of C120 is a *lot* for a 3 gallon beer.
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Jan 5, 2015 21:46
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crazyfish posted:Actually, another thing I noticed: Does red wheat malt have much diastatic power? If not, you'll probably need some 6-row or pils in there to help convert, otherwise your efficiency is going to be dogshit. And a pound of C120 is a *lot* for a 3 gallon beer. I switched it to white wheat malt which has 180 DP, so that shouldn't be an issue if it was before. Yeah, I don't know what it is with me a crystal malt but I don't find using 13-15% unpleasant at all.
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Jan 5, 2015 21:53
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Josh Wow posted:Why wouldn't you boil this beer? Also get like 10-15 IBUs of hops in there or it'll taste weird. Out of curiosity, what happens of you don't add any hops at all and ferment normally? Is it just super sweet?
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Jan 5, 2015 21:54
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ieatsoap6 posted:Out of curiosity, what happens of you don't add any hops at all and ferment normally? Is it just super sweet? I think for a normal beer it would certainly be too sweet. When my meads finish at 1.010, It's what I would myself categorize as medium to sweet (others make their sweet meads to like 1.020-1,030 which to me is way too sweet). but I was toying with the idea as it should end up dry with the Bug County (which has 4 brett strains + lacto and pedio strains). I don't normally taste any hops in sour beers I've had, which is why I wasn't really going to add hops. All the recipes say add .25oz of hops for 60 minutes or whatever, but what is that really getting me in the final product? Also Der Penguingoat did you try any of those meads yet? I'm curious to know what you think! Marshmallow Blue fucked around with this message at 22:12 on Jan 5, 2015 |
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Jan 5, 2015 22:10
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ieatsoap6 posted:Out of curiosity, what happens of you don't add any hops at all and ferment normally? Is it just super sweet? Probably depends on the recipe. Also it would likely spoil faster since there would be nothing to help keep lactic acid bacteria in check.
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Jan 5, 2015 22:10
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