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Parents are complaining about the wifi connection on one side of their house. There is still a wired connection over there so am I right in thinking an access point would be better than a repeater? Any recommendations on a relatively cheap one?
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Jan 4, 2015 02:12
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CampingCarl posted:Parents are complaining about the wifi connection on one side of their house. There is still a wired connection over there so am I right in thinking an access point would be better than a repeater? Any recommendations on a relatively cheap one? Anything by TP link should serve you well
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Jan 4, 2015 02:31
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Is the ASUS RT-N56U still a good router or are their newer products out there that are a lot better? Outside of normal uses, I do heavy torrenting and stream 1080p content to my Chromecast about 15 feet away
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Jan 4, 2015 20:41
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bryn987 posted:Is the ASUS RT-N56U still a good router or are their newer products out there that are a lot better? Outside of normal uses, I do heavy torrenting and stream 1080p content to my Chromecast about 15 feet away It's still pretty good and is still being sold. The N66U and AC66U and AC68U have followed it but they've mostly added AC and some other features. Is it giving you any problems? I seem to recall them having some issues with overheating in some cases.
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Jan 4, 2015 23:07
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Rexxed posted:It's still pretty good and is still being sold. The N66U and AC66U and AC68U have followed it but they've mostly added AC and some other features. Is it giving you any problems? I seem to recall them having some issues with overheating in some cases. No issues. Just had it for a couple of years now and wanted to make sure it was still a solid choice
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Jan 4, 2015 23:27
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Hi. I need help. I'm rusty as all hell with networking stuffs and need a hand. Here's the deal. I have a Billion BiPAC 7300GA acting as an ADSL2+ modem router. It's also acting as a wireless access point. The Billion has a varying number of wireless devices hanging off it. It also has a PC connected by ethernet, and a second ethernet cable going to a LinkSys WRT160Nv2 in the loungeroom also acting as a wireless access point and an ethernet hub for the xbox 360 and the Android set top box. The LinkSys has NAT and RIP disabled. The Billion is old and infirm. It's started rebooting more and more often. Sometimes once every couple of minutes. It seems to be load dependent. What I was thinking is that I could possibly just set it to be an ADSL2+ modem and let the LinkSys deal with all the hard stuff, but I'm not sure if I can / how it's possible with that unit. Why don't I get a new one? I did! Postage takes forever. I already received one and it was a non-starter. Long story. So now I'm waiting on a second one. It'll probably be another week. So that's the why of it. The reason I have two routers is although the house is very small, the walls are thick and plentiful. Essentially WiFi is lucky to make it four or five metres. So there's one for the back and one for the front. Is what I want to do possible with the Billion? I can deal with the lack of network for the PC by USB tethering a phone as an overly elaborate WiFi dongle. I've already been doing exactly this because the router seems to be particularly sensitive to the PC's ethernet connection.
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Jan 5, 2015 06:55
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Josh Lyman posted:This is the same thing and is the only card that's recommended in this thread or the PC Parts picking megathread: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813995032 Just a FYI for anyone getting a Intel AC 7260 card... Absolutely make sure you have the newest drivers from Intel.. (https://downloadcenter.intel.com/SearchResult.aspx?lang=eng&ProdId=3714, 17.13.11 is the newest) The earlier versions had some major bugs that would cause random BSODs. There is also a sleep bug that has persisted for several driver versions and was just fixed in November's driver release.
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Jan 5, 2015 20:28
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all_purpose_cat_boy posted:lots of words It sounds like either a knackered superhub, or arp table issues, given that internal communication is dropping out which is likely a limitation put in by design. According to some Virgin person on the Virgin forums, the superhub supports up to 4 wired and 4 wireless devices at once: http://community.virginmedia.com/t5/Wireless-Networking/VM-Superhub-maximum-connections/td-p/1092003/page/2 You had more than 4 wired devices anyway (but i do on my superhub and it works fine too) but I'm guessing the nests took it over the edge. I've got a fairly similar setup at home. 1 pc, 2 laptops, phone, a NAS, sky box, 4 home media players (raspberry pi's rather than sonos), and 1 Nest. My recommendation: Turn the superhub into modem only mode and purchase a half decent router Ditch your router/switch thing andput a proper gigabit switch in, they arent expensive If you can be bothered, run an ethernet cable under the floor or through the wall/loft instead of the powerline things. Its way faster. Here are some routers that are reviewed well. Personally I'd take the TP-Link Archer C7 but its just preference. http://www.pcadvisor.co.uk/test-centre/pc-peripheral/3217482/8-best-wireless-router-2015-uk/ Switch: http://www.ebuyer.com/411322-netgear-gs308-8-port-gigabit-ethernet-metal-switch-gs308-100uks Ahdinko fucked around with this message at 16:50 on Jan 6, 2015 |
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Jan 6, 2015 16:25
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Not sure why I'm getting in the middle of this (actually, yes I am, I was drug into it) but I'd like some advice on how to handle a particular wi-fi setup. Friends of the family own two houses next to each other. They would like to pay for internet access at a single residence and use wi-fi to broadcast their pirate signal to the other in order to avoid paying for a second connection. In House 2, they are only interested in having wi-fi access to the kitchen area which thankfully is near House 1 (which has the internet connection and a wi-fi router at this point). Last variable: I've been told that the distance between the wi-fi router and/or eventual additional equipment and the kitchen area of House 2 is approximately 80 feet with at least a garage in-between, Were it me, I'd likely put in some sort of wireless bridge setup, but that sounds like a bit of overkill given that the House 2 location will only need wifi access. Questions: 1. Given the above scenario, I'm assuming an access point would provide a more stable connection than a repeater correct? 2. What protocols are likely going to be better at penetrating the obsticles? My guess would be b/g (vs a, n, or ac) but that is me talking out of my rear end. I realize this is a bit (or very) vague, but I wanted to see if I can get some feedback on what to absolutely NOT do.
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Jan 6, 2015 20:06
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CrushedWill posted:Not sure why I'm getting in the middle of this (actually, yes I am, I was drug into it) but I'd like some advice on how to handle a particular wi-fi setup. First of all; it's not the wireless protocols that determine your penetration it's frequency. A 2.4Ghz signal will get more penetration than a 5Ghz one so if their current router supports both you'll want to name the WiFi networks differently so that you can connect to the 2.4 one from house 2. The easiest solution is to just set up the WiFi in house 1 and see if it works in house 2. I live in a neighborhood and I can see several of my neighbors networks just fine from my house. If you can't get good reception then you'll need to get more creative. If you can get a good WiFi signal somewhere in house 2 then one option is to setup a repeater in that area to distribute WiFi out to the rest of the house. An access point won't do you much good since they are used to provide WiFi from a hard-line connection. If the WiFi isn't great anywhere in house 2 then it's time to get more creative and look at setting up a wireless bridge. An often suggested option is the locoM2 from Ubiquiti. You would wire one from the router in house 1 pointed to house 2 and put another in house 2 pointed back at house 1. These are a lot more powerful than a standard home router and will setup a wireless link between the two units. In order to get WiFi in house 2 you can then attach an airGateway device (also from Ubiquiti) to the unit in house 2. Krailor fucked around with this message at 23:58 on Jan 6, 2015 |
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Jan 6, 2015 20:40
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Ahdinko posted:It sounds like either a knackered superhub, or arp table issues, given that internal communication is dropping out which is likely a limitation put in by design. Thanks very much for the reply, and to the other guy who replied. I've tried it without the 2nd router (just the pc going straight on via powerline) and also tried bridging using the airport express over wifi rather than powerline. Neither seemed to help. I have posted on the Virgin forum but didn't get much response. I'll try again soon though as it was close to Xmas. I'll see if I can get a replacement homehub to try, if not then I may give a new router a shot. Is there anything out there that will "convince" me that a new router will be better than the sh? Not that I don't believe you, just would be nice to read an article about it. Cheers
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Jan 6, 2015 21:53
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Krailor posted:First of all; it's not the wireless protocols that determine your penetration it's frequency. A 2.4Ghz signal will get more penatration than a 5Ghz one so if their current router supports both you'll want to name the WiFi networks differently so that you can connect to the 2.4 one from house 2. This is a good post by a good poster. Even as close as 80', unless you live in an area with no 2.4GHz interference, the exterior walls and ambient radio noise will probably make using one AP to cover both houses not viable. The flip side is, because the Ubiquiti radios and antennas are set up to be highly directional for just this purpose... 80' through some walls / garages / similar poo poo is literally nothing to them and you should have a 100% signal with no effort. Just remember that their quoted speeds are for combined throughput, so when they say 150Mbps, it means you can get 75Mbps up and 75Mbps down at the same time, but you probably won't see 150Mbps in one direction.
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Jan 6, 2015 22:08
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It may also be worth considering just burying a conduit with CAT6 between the two houses, then installing an AP in the second house. It'll probably be cheaper and more reliable than connecting the two houses wirelessly.
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Jan 6, 2015 23:10
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:Just use draw.io instead of installing something. Re-quoting and re-replying...I've realized that this app is loving awesome, and I'm really glad you recommended it. The Cisco network equipment shapes are perfect for helping me visualize prospective layouts. Thank you very much, again!
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Jan 6, 2015 23:31
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smax posted:It may also be worth considering just burying a conduit with CAT6 between the two houses, then installing an AP in the second house. It'll probably be cheaper and more reliable than connecting the two houses wirelessly. This was the first thing I suggested. They said it was too much work, to which I said not if nothing else works. Like I said, I got drug into this. Thanks Krailor, I appreciate the detailed response (and plan). And for the clarification on the freq/protocols. I've never had an issue with coverage, but I have fairly old devices (except my Nexus 7) which depend on 2.4g. Also helps that 90% of the time, I'm sitting 10' away from my trusty RT-N66R. Do external antennas work well with consumer grade access points? I'm half tempted to suggest he wire/place an AP in the garage wall of House 1, and attach an external antenna to it.
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Jan 7, 2015 02:00
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So I just recently bought a ASUS RT-N66U so I could put Tomato Shibby on it to utilize their script feature. I also use wireless a lot and there is one option under the wireless section I am not too sure which one I should be choosing as I really have no idea what I am doing. I basically just want my router to act like a normal router with two wired connections + have wireless capabilities. So which option should I be choosing? I tried to google and look on Tomato's wiki but I guess my searching skills aren't up to par. I have the options of: Access Point, Access Point + WDS, Wireless Client, Wireless Ethernet Bridge, WDS edit: looks like I need to keep it in Access Point mode since that is the only option to select which channel I am using. Etrips fucked around with this message at 12:21 on Jan 7, 2015 |
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Jan 7, 2015 11:58
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all_purpose_cat_boy posted:Thanks very much for the reply, and to the other guy who replied. Speaking about the Archer C7 specifically, 802.11ac is a big plus point, its the latest wireless standard thats really fast. Also unlike virgin, they dont seem to put device limits on it which does seem like your issue here. It also does ddns which you may appreciate as a NAS owner. Here are some actual reviews where people test throughput on both a superhub and an Archer C7, you can see that Archer is way, way faster than a superhub in almost every way: http://www.expertreviews.co.uk/networks/wireless-routers/50381/virgin-media-super-hub-review http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-reviews/32196-tp-link-archer-c7-ac1750-wireless-dual-band-gigabit-router-reviewed
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Jan 7, 2015 12:24
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Anyone have any recommendations for a decent wireless bridge I could pick up locally at Best Buy / Fry's? I'm at my parents house while I'm off of university and my parents recently switched to AT&T and the wireless reception throughout the house is awful thanks to the terrible router they provide and force their customers to use. I can't take having this terrible reception anymore, somebody, anybody, save me.
Diametunim fucked around with this message at 22:16 on Jan 7, 2015 |
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Jan 7, 2015 22:08
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Wireless bridges suck. Also I'm familiar with the routers AT&T provides, all of them have pretty comparable coverage to what you can buy in the store. They don't have the feature set, but coverage should be the pretty similar. Try modifying the broadcast channel and checking out the placement before jumping to wireless bridge. People have a nasty habit of throwing the provided router deep in an wooden entertainment center then wondering why their wifi signal sucks. If you still can't get a proper signal, a WAP coupled to a pair of powerline ethernet modules would be better than a wireless extender/bridge. If there's a u-verse cable box in the room your in you can also piggyback off the ethernet on the back of it (provided it's using the coax for hpna).
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Jan 7, 2015 22:21
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I'm trying to connect two WANs with two wireless routers in my home. Here's my scenario. I have one closet with a 100mbit cable connection hooked up to an Asus AC68U. This is my primary setup right now. I just got a 300mbit microwave connection installed on my roof and it comes in to another closet somewhat far away. I'd like to put another wireless router in this new closet such that my home has one wireless network backed by two WANs in failover or load balancing mode. I've already tried powerline networking between the two closets to avoid a second wireless router but it's pretty slow. Is this possible? If so, how?
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Jan 7, 2015 22:23
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Yeah, it's possible. A better questions is Why? That's a lot of hassle to deal with, and your not going to accomplish your goal without some decent equipment. You'll need a router capable of failing over WAN connections, which most consumer level gear won't do. Feed both WAN connections into your primary router and then run the rest of your network behind it. Personally I would do this with a small low power PC running pfSense or something similar, and then get a switch and a couple of wireless access points for the rest of the network.
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Jan 7, 2015 22:40
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Well, my AC68U already does failover between two WANs. It just expects both to be plugged in via ethernet/usb. So I feel like I'm not that far off. I just need some way to have it treat a wireless connection as one of the WANs, if possible.
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Jan 7, 2015 22:45
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fakeil posted:I'm trying to connect two WANs with two wireless routers in my home. Here's my scenario. The only way to get failover/load balancing would be to connect both WANs to a single router that supports Dual WAN functionality. You could then attach wireless access points to this router (or use your current routers in AP mode) to provide the wireless signal for your house. There are several dual wan routers on amazon in the $150-$200 range but I don't know enough about them to suggest one over the other. The best you can do with a two router solution would be to have two separate wireless networks and devices would just connect to whichever one has the stronger signal. However this means that devices on one network wouldn't be able to see devices on the other. Edit: Huh, looks like your router already supports dual WAN. That's handy. I guess if you want to delve into the more money than sense end of the pool you could technically get two nanostations. Hook one up to the 100mbit connection and the other to the 300mbit one and setup a wireless bridge between them and then set your router to use the ethernet port the nanostation is hooked up to as the second WAN. That seems silly though. Krailor fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Jan 7, 2015 |
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Jan 7, 2015 22:47
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fakeil posted:I'm trying to connect two WANs with two wireless routers in my home. Here's my scenario. pfSense makes load balancing and failover almost trivial if you're reasonably tech inclined. I got one of these for my mother-in-law to do exactly that and it has been working flawlessly. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pfsense-2-1-5-Mini-ITX-Firewall-Router-1-WAN-3-LAN-/321633967203?pt=US_Firewall_VPN_Devices&hash=item4ae2e0dc63 With the two modems in different closets it'll be difficult to connect them without power line networking or running an actual cat5 cable. Without knowing the layout of your house it's hard to say how hard installing a cat5 cable would be. It could range anywhere from basically impossible to as easy as a couple of holes in the floor or running it through HVAC ducting. edit: If you get the version of the firewall I linked to above with wireless, you can totally set up the wireless as another WAN interface. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pfsense-2-1...=item4ae2e0de65 e.pilot fucked around with this message at 22:56 on Jan 7, 2015 |
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Jan 7, 2015 22:50
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fakeil posted:Well, my AC68U already does failover between two WANs. It just expects both to be plugged in via ethernet/usb. So I feel like I'm not that far off. I just need some way to have it treat a wireless connection as one of the WANs, if possible. I am guessing here, but I assume the router can't be an AP and act as a bridge at the same time, so there probably isn't a way to setup wireless failover without adding some kind of extra hardware or a direct line.
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Jan 7, 2015 22:55
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Got a TP-Link AV500 Nano powerline adapter the other week after the old wifi bridge died, and overall it works fine aside from intermittent connection drops which appears to be due to the power-saving mode. Never had a drop while streaming, and no reported drops if I just leave ping -t running overnight. Is there a way to disable power-saving mode entirely? I didn't see anything mentioned when going through the manual.
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Jan 10, 2015 20:36
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isndl posted:Got a TP-Link AV500 Nano powerline adapter the other week after the old wifi bridge died, and overall it works fine aside from intermittent connection drops which appears to be due to the power-saving mode. Never had a drop while streaming, and no reported drops if I just leave ping -t running overnight. Is there a way to disable power-saving mode entirely? I didn't see anything mentioned when going through the manual. If you don't find a setting in the adapters, it should be pretty strait forward to set up a script to fire a single ICMP packet across it every x seconds.
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Jan 11, 2015 00:09
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I'm at my friends place and he mentioned that he's getting some weird errors when he goes to google.com sometimes. I actually encountered one of these errors when I was over there with my own computer. What could cause an SSL certificate error?
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Jan 11, 2015 08:31
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fletcher posted:I'm at my friends place and he mentioned that he's getting some weird errors when he goes to google.com sometimes. I actually encountered one of these errors when I was over there with my own computer. What could cause an SSL certificate error? An expired certificate being presented, a certificate being presented to your browser where the CN doesn't match the FQDN of the site you are at, or it's signed with a root certificate that is not in your Trusted Authorities. Those are the most common, but without the actual SSL error (and application generating it) and the site you're using, it's difficult to tell what's going on. EDITED: Added more information Proteus Jones fucked around with this message at 08:38 on Jan 11, 2015 |
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Jan 11, 2015 08:36
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I've got a crazy rear end issue I can't even being to figure out. My RT-N66U has been working great, running both 2.4 and 5 GHz, stable as hell, all my roommates and me have had no issues with it for the most part. The problem is that when my boyfriend comes over, and connects his laptop to the N-network, after a few minutes he loses connection to the internet (stays connected to the network though, but has that little ! icon and says "no internet access" or whatever), and then after that, no other N devices can connect until I reboot the router. I'm trying to figure out how it's possible for someone's computer to effectively break the wireless network without having any admin access or anything. It's worth noting this isn't even just my network. The place he used to live had one of those Comcast router/modem combo things running only 2.4 GHz, and he would constantly lose/regain access to the internet and all other devices would too. I don't really care what's wrong with his computer, but I would like to insulate my network against whatever malicious poo poo his computer is doing to the network.
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Jan 11, 2015 09:04
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AceSnyp3r posted:I've got a crazy rear end issue I can't even being to figure out. My RT-N66U has been working great, running both 2.4 and 5 GHz, stable as hell, all my roommates and me have had no issues with it for the most part. The problem is that when my boyfriend comes over, and connects his laptop to the N-network, after a few minutes he loses connection to the internet (stays connected to the network though, but has that little ! icon and says "no internet access" or whatever), and then after that, no other N devices can connect until I reboot the router. I'm trying to figure out how it's possible for someone's computer to effectively break the wireless network without having any admin access or anything. Does he happen to have a static IP assigned to his laptop? I had a similar issue going on with my network setup and it was an IP conflict issue.
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Jan 11, 2015 09:32
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Nope, not that. It's a Killer Wireless-N 1103 adapter apparently, which as far as I can gather from Google, is a gigantic piece of poo poo to start with.
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Jan 11, 2015 09:43
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IPv6 Question My local ISP has recently switched on IPv6. I went to my router, selected "Auto-Config for IPv6", and it detected a 6-to-4 tunneling setup on the ISP side. Is there any reason right now to turn IPv6 on? Are there any security issues or vulnerabilities using IPv6 versus IPv4? When it is turned off, I get these messages from http://test-ipv6.com : quote:Your IPv4 address on the public Internet appears to be REMOVED When I turn it on to auto-detect IPv6 in my router, the response changes: quote:
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Jan 11, 2015 15:43
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Right now there's no direct benefit for end users, unless they want to access one of the very very few IPv6-only websites out there. I know there used to be an IPv6-only porn site, which was made to entice users to switch, but I don't think it exists anymore. Just leave it on, and bask in the warm glow of knowing your setup is future-proof, I guess.
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Jan 11, 2015 15:57
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Sorry for asking this, but the OP is years old and I couldn't see it answered on the past few pages... What are some recommendations for a wireless router in the $80 to $120 range? My WRT54G is finally dead. My desktop is on wireless, so performance is a priority. I live in a 1,200 SF townhouse so it doesn't need to have the most massive range, but I will want it to be able to penetrate through a few walls and ceilings. Related - My desktop's USB wi-fi dongle thing is about as old as the WRT54G, so I'm sure it's about to die too. What are the best ways to add wireless to a desktop at the moment? USB dongle? PCI card? (I built my computer and home network in 2009... Don't laugh at my Luddite nature)
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Jan 11, 2015 23:39
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I'm looking for a Modem Router Combo to replace my lovely old Modem Router, which was stock from AT&T when I signed up. I've upgraded my plan twice since; I have the highest or second-highest tier internet, so something that could keep up with it would...well, make sense. It's reached that age where it's acting up and getting to be a bit sketchy, so I'll need to replace it anyway. I was going to give it to a friend a few months ago, but i found out through this thread that it basically can't be used by anyone else.  It's a 2Wire 3800HGV-B  Any Advice on this would be great, so Thank-you. 
Freakbox fucked around with this message at 06:34 on Jan 12, 2015 |
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Jan 12, 2015 06:29
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Who is your service with and what kind of service is it?
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Jan 12, 2015 07:43
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It's AT&T Uverse, and it's the internet ((the Uverse POWER, according to them))- no cable/phone or anything else. From looking it is apparently a "gateway", so I may have to go through the company to change it. 
Freakbox fucked around with this message at 09:12 on Jan 12, 2015 |
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Jan 12, 2015 09:06
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Correct, with AT&T U-Verse you're at their mercy as to what your gateway/modem-router device is. They have 2 different models in circulation right now.
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Jan 12, 2015 17:03
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You can always put a proper router in behind their crummy modem though. But their gateways are a major reason of why I won't use their service anymore. They struggle with any file sharing traffic and then it impacts your television because it goes through there as well. Just crap.
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Jan 12, 2015 17:45
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