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Looks like a river with an algal bloom. I like it.
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Jan 13, 2015 04:54
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I've said it before but I just cant get over how much it looks like pinto beans right after you dump 'em out of the can and they still have the slime on them.
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Jan 13, 2015 11:06
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I think the tablescapes tiles just inherently look like food.
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Jan 13, 2015 12:51
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ijyt posted:I think the tablescapes tiles just inherently look like food. The obvious next step would be to simply use actual food. Imagine doing battle on the hellscape of a Domino's 16" gluten free crust pepperoni and sausage pizza.
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Jan 13, 2015 14:24
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Here are more dodgy pictures of my   I'll probably give up and soon get some buildings from https://www.sarissa-precision.com/Old_West/cat1603369_2365906.aspx if anyone can recommend cheapish 28-30mm old west buildings with cheap shipping to Australia, I wouldn't mind. Otherwise, what do people normally use as the base for terrain pieces? I plan on making little bits of Cacti as hazardous terrain, but I don't know what's a good and commonly base - unless it's basically just fine to get any old plastic and go from there.
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Jan 14, 2015 05:54
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We use 1/8" MDF in my neck of the woods. It's cheap and stiff but easy to shape and cut even with hand tools. It can warp with moisture and humidity though, so it's a good idea to seal it. We use watered down PVA glue for that.
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Jan 14, 2015 05:58
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It's been ages since I made proper terrain, so newbie question: what's a good, sturdy material to use for terrain bases - and what do I need to cut and smooth said material? I heard the stuff used for the back of picture frames is nice, but I don't know what it's called and wether I'd need a small saw or just a carpet knife in order to shape it.
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Jan 17, 2015 19:17
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Luebbi posted:It's been ages since I made proper terrain, so newbie question: what's a good, sturdy material to use for terrain bases - and what do I need to cut and smooth said material? IIRC it's usally hardboard (or masonite, for the brand name) at the back of picture frames. The guy from 3T recommended 3/8" mdf for heavier stuff. You don't want the base bending and popping off your glued terrain.
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Jan 17, 2015 19:24
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Luebbi posted:It's been ages since I made proper terrain, so newbie question: what's a good, sturdy material to use for terrain bases - and what do I need to cut and smooth said material? What ijyt said. If you have a dollar store nearby you could just grab some picture frames on the cheap and experiment with them before committing to any terrain you plan to keep around. You'll need at least a hand saw to cut them (if you have a power saw of any sort, so much the better) and for smoothing them out, definitely sand paper. A smoothing/sanding wheel bit from a dremel tool will speed things up considerably, but it'll kick up a bunch of dust and particles so wear a mask. MDF board can also work, but you need to seal that with some watered-down white glue first or else it'll eventually warp when introduced to moisture. Lot more prep work for that, so I'd only suggest it if you're doing large pieces like 1 foot by 1 foot square pieces.
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Jan 17, 2015 19:45
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I use MDF because of how easily it can be cut and worked with hand tools. I don't seal with anything, and have never had any problems with warping before. Maybe it has more to do with the size of the piece you're using? I could see a tabletop warping, but for terrain bases, I've never had any issues.
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Jan 17, 2015 19:51
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Bad Munki posted:The obvious next step would be to simply use actual food. Imagine doing battle on the hellscape of a Domino's 16" gluten free crust pepperoni and sausage pizza. My idea for my Tablescape city board was make it snowy to match my sisters of battle, with grey buildings. Bland and boring and imperial. Of course my other army that I am basing in the same way is Emperor's Children with Slaanesh daemons... so I had a bunch of cheap colorful coral formations from fish tanks that would be bursting from the ground. ... Now I'm thinking of making it a field of candy. Plateaus where the snow turns to white frosting with colorful bunting, sugary gumdrops twinkling with color. Ribbons of twizzlers forming unnatural vegetation. A goddamn santa's village made of gingerbread death.
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Jan 17, 2015 19:52
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LordAba posted:A goddamn santa's village made of gingerbread death. Do yes make gingerbrattle bakescape. e: space marine gumdrop pods 
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Jan 17, 2015 20:29
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Wazzu posted:I'll probably give up and soon get some buildings from https://www.sarissa-precision.com/Old_West/cat1603369_2365906.aspx if anyone can recommend cheapish 28-30mm old west buildings with cheap shipping to Australia, I wouldn't mind. CNC are local and make some buildings with a Mexican or Spanish monastery mud brick feel to them http://www.miniaturescenery.com/CategoryPage.asp?Code=CAT_SH
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Jan 17, 2015 20:32
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Germ posted:I use MDF because of how easily it can be cut and worked with hand tools. I don't seal with anything, and have never had any problems with warping before. Maybe it has more to do with the size of the piece you're using? I could see a tabletop warping, but for terrain bases, I've never had any issues. MDF is the terrain base material of champions. It can warp if you spread a lot of moist material or paint directly on it, but most terrain pieces have some kind of spackle or foam or other materials meant to build up the dimension of the piece, which provides a good barrier between the wood and paint/PVA. (Watered down PVA can warp MDF as bad as anything, if you're going to seal it, use a spray-on sealer and put it on thick..) Also, if you have MDF board that warps, you can usually fix it, even on a finished piece of terrain by counter-warping it on a corner of a heavy table or counter. Moisten the underside of the MDF with some water, lay on piece of folded up newspaper that doesn't reach the edges, then use a couple of C-clamps to clamp down the edges, counter-bowing the MDF over the newspaper piece and allow to dry thoroughly before removing the clamps. Use a couple pieces of foam or foamcore as pads under the clamps if it's a finished piece you don't want to damage.
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Jan 19, 2015 13:20
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Since I'm here, here's an Ork city that's slowly growing on our worktable as more orders keep coming in.
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Jan 19, 2015 13:23
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A Mean Cow posted:Since I'm here, here's an Ork city that's slowly growing on our worktable as more orders keep coming in. Ork'in hard to make a livvin  You still make the best space doll houses
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Jan 19, 2015 13:49
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That video has lava and fire as well as shirtlessness and mulletry, I approve.
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Jan 19, 2015 15:11
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That looks amazing. Do you have any more photos?
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Jan 19, 2015 15:45
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A Mean Cow posted:That video has lava and fire as well as shirtlessness and mulletry, I approve. there is no lava in that video. Molten metal, coke, and slag, yes.
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Jan 19, 2015 20:26
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Leperflesh posted:there is no lava in that video. So basically lava? Yes, I agree. Loved the lava.
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Jan 20, 2015 11:13
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The Supreme Court posted:That looks amazing. Do you have any more photos? If you search for pictures of Jimmy Barnes or Cold Chisel from the 1980s you should get a few photos 
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Jan 20, 2015 11:32
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The Supreme Court posted:That looks amazing. Do you have any more photos?    edit:   edit: LAVA 
A Mean Cow fucked around with this message at 11:56 on Jan 20, 2015 |
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Jan 20, 2015 11:45
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A Mean Cow posted:edit: LAVA Why is this not on the board somewhere? Or some variation on each building?
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Jan 20, 2015 12:02
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Wazzu posted:Why is this not on the board somewhere? Or some variation on each building? Goddamn that's a good idea. I should really think up a good way to make a foundry with hot metal effects.
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Jan 20, 2015 12:22
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A Mean Cow posted:Goddamn that's a good idea. I should really think up a good way to make a foundry with hot metal effects. Acrylic rod with red LEDs, covered in water effects or hot glue?
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Jan 20, 2015 12:29
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That's far better than my plans for an actual miniature arc-furnace, probably better from a legal standpoint as well. Seriously I'm putting this together in my head, I might do it on a huge Ork display board I'm working on.
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Jan 20, 2015 12:59
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krushgroove posted:Acrylic rod with red LEDs, covered in water effects or hot glue? Or white LEDs with a filter for a hotter look.
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Jan 20, 2015 13:03
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Go the whole hog and make it smoke.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UAWZOu7ba_A
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Jan 20, 2015 15:14
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I need to hang around you goons more often, I'm getting some great stuff here, and I don't just mean Jimmy Barnes.
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Jan 20, 2015 15:28
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A Mean Cow posted:I need to hang around you goons more often, I'm getting some great stuff here, and I don't just mean Jimmy Barnes. It's a double edged sword: on one hand I get tons of inspiration from forums, on the other hand I spend tons of my spare time on forums instead of doing hobby stuff. Oh well...
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Jan 20, 2015 15:31
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I'll pretend that I have you guys on payroll scouring the internet for stuff for us, so next time I meet with a client and they ask if something is feasible, I can say "I'll have the boys down at the lab look into it." I always wanted to have "boys down at the lab."
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Jan 20, 2015 15:40
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A Mean Cow posted:I'll pretend that I have you guys on payroll scouring the internet for stuff for us, so next time I meet with a client and they ask if something is feasible, I can say "I'll have the boys down at the lab look into it." Go full hog with the business jargon and say that you cloudsourced it. It is us. The hobby nerd cloud.
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Jan 20, 2015 15:55
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Cloudsourced it out to the boys in the lab
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Jan 20, 2015 16:00
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krushgroove posted:Acrylic rod with red LEDs, covered in water effects or hot glue? So I'm thinking more about this and for making some really interesting 'flows" I'm wondering if a person could use some melted wax to get some really nice, chunky, viscous flows over a thing, and then make a mold of it in rtv silicone, and then cast it in acrylic from that. Maybe have to play with the idea later. Still do yes LED illuminate, that's always good fun.
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Jan 20, 2015 16:17
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Bad Munki posted:So I'm thinking more about this and for making some really interesting 'flows" I'm wondering if a person could use some melted wax to get some really nice, chunky, viscous flows over a thing, and then make a mold of it in rtv silicone, and then cast it in acrylic from that. Maybe have to play with the idea later. Still do yes LED illuminate, that's always good fun. Embed some fibre optics too.
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Jan 20, 2015 16:38
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What about EL Wire instead of LED? My thought was embedding a white strand or two in colored resin.
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Jan 20, 2015 16:44
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A Mean Cow posted:I always wanted to have "boys down at the lab." That, and a room full of ninja secret agents.
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Jan 20, 2015 16:58
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A Mean Cow posted:I'll pretend that I have you guys on payroll scouring the internet for stuff for us, so next time I meet with a client and they ask if something is feasible, I can say "I'll have the boys down at the lab look into it." "I have top men working on it." "Who?" "Top. Men." 
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Jan 20, 2015 17:52
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Baron Snow posted:What about EL Wire instead of LED? My thought was embedding a white strand or two in colored resin. 120V on a tiny hobby display seems sufficiently orc-y. https://learn.adafruit.com/el-wire/using-el-wire (Yeah, I know it's super low current.) 
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Jan 20, 2015 19:11
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Bad Munki posted:So I'm thinking more about this and for making some really interesting 'flows" I'm wondering if a person could use some melted wax to get some really nice, chunky, viscous flows over a thing, and then make a mold of it in rtv silicone, and then cast it in acrylic from that. Maybe have to play with the idea later. Still do yes LED illuminate, that's always good fun. I saw a tutorial once which used really, really thick plaster. They held the board at an angle so there was only a very slight incline for the "lava" to flow down as the plaster set, but it worked really, really well. Pity I can't find it now..
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Jan 20, 2015 21:19
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