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Farchanter posted:If this is the wrong thread I'm really sorry,. Intel has decent documentation. Also, you'd probably have better luck in the DIY/hobbies forum. The Edison isn't exactly an Arduino, but it's close enough in intended purpose that you can probably find some help in the Arduino thread. And there's the basic electronics thread, which is a bit more low-level than tiny computers but will probably come in handy if you want to use all that connectivity Intel packed in there.
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Jan 28, 2015 02:21
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Pilchenstein posted:I'm not sure if this is the right thread to be asking in but I've got a spare monitor that I was wanting to connect as a second screen and only one of the dvi ports on my gfx card supports analog. Can I stick one of these in the hdmi port and have it work fine?
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Jan 28, 2015 02:33
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Farchanter posted:If this is the wrong thread I'm really sorry,. In addition to what others posted, I'm pretty sure there's stuff on Youtube that, at the very least could give you some ideas on what you could do with it.
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Jan 28, 2015 02:37
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Alereon posted:That looks like it would work, the spec sheet seems to indicate it's an Active adapter with a built-in DAC (Digital to Analog Converter) but it doesn't actually SAY that anywhere so I would be a bit cautious. A cheap pin adapter without a DAC built-in would not work.
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Jan 28, 2015 04:28
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Illegal Carrot posted:So the other day I decided to do the extremely smart thing of spilling water all over my tower, and I think some got on my GPU. Right now I have the thing unseated and it's been sitting in front of a fan for about 48 hours now, but I'm wondering how long I should leave it to dry before plugging it back in, and what else I can do to prevent this thing from sparking up s soon as I turn it on. I know it's not popular to tell people exactly what cases to get, but this is why I'll never have a case with a top exhaust or any top open vents. I rarely ever spill anything (I used my case as a place to rest my beer on for a couple of years), but it just seems like an absolutely pointless risk. That includes all of those rotated Silverstone cases. When I had an Antec P182, that had an exhaust cowl, but I even gaffer taped over the top of that so it wasn't exposed. As for actual advice, it's hard to say if everything is going to be totally dry, but definitely leaving things in front of a large fan for some time is a decent idea. The longer you can leave it, the better, of course. Hey, if there's no water left, there's not much else that seems to be possible. Good luck. HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 10:56 on Jan 28, 2015 |
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Jan 28, 2015 10:51
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My brothers PC has been acting funky, shutting down and freezing during downloads. I asked him to check smart and at least one of the drives is bad. How does the other one look? Is this a 'everything hosed, backup immediately situation? 
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Jan 28, 2015 16:12
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If CrystalDiskInfo says caution, it's time to go drive shoppin'.
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Jan 28, 2015 16:36
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I figure the second disk is screwed, but does the first look ok?
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Jan 28, 2015 16:39
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Nemesis Of Moles posted:I figure the second disk is screwed, but does the first look ok? It looks OK, but failures don't always give you a nice SMART warning beforehand. It's always smart to back up any data you care about. If you're seeing random shutdowns, that's probably not a hard drive thing, either. There could be multiple problems, or the Seagate might not be the root cause of the issue.
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Jan 28, 2015 16:46
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Thanks gang, I'll tell him to get a new drive
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Jan 28, 2015 16:55
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I connected an mSATA 3 inch drive to a desktop's motherboard SATA to recover some files after somebody dropped my laptop. No trouble whatsoever (I guess the transfer was unusually slow but it's an old 5400rpm drive) until I'm in the middle of copying a 30 gig folder and the machine BSODs with a driver IRQL not less than or equal error. Then it refuses to post. Fortunately it was still under warranty and my brother got on chat with a rep and restored the BIOS, so everything's fine now and I've ordered an mSATA USB enclosure to hook up the hard drive safely. My question is: what the hell? Since when was it dangerous to hook up a laptop drive to a desktop's SATA ports? Why did the BIOS get corrupted? Arglebargle III fucked around with this message at 18:09 on Jan 28, 2015 |
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Jan 28, 2015 18:05
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Unusually slow transfer off a drop-damaged, old hard drive? That's pretty much every warning sign that the drive itself is failing. If the controller itself is damaged or does not know how to handle a particular corruption or failure condition, it can basically throw a wave of "I do not know what to do" through the system. A BSOD is not unexpected at all in that kind of situation. The BIOS getting confused to that degree... that is unexpected, but it's not impossible.
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Jan 28, 2015 18:25
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I've had the inverse happen to me, a motherboard's dying SATA controller corrupted the firmware on one of my hard drives and caused another to write random bullshit to its SMART. The first one was basically bricked and the second is still working, but delegated to holding-unimportant-data-that's-already-on-a-backup-anyways duty. I don't see why the other way around wouldn't be possible.
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Jan 28, 2015 18:53
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Factory Factory posted:Unusually slow transfer off a drop-damaged, old hard drive? That's pretty much every warning sign that the drive itself is failing. If the controller itself is damaged or does not know how to handle a particular corruption or failure condition, it can basically throw a wave of "I do not know what to do" through the system. A BSOD is not unexpected at all in that kind of situation. The BIOS getting confused to that degree... that is unexpected, but it's not impossible. Computer was off and the drop hit the power connector a good 6 inches away from the drive, I assumed the drive was not damaged. No Web forum can tell me whether it was or not I guess. My brother's theory was that the computer was trying to install divers for this new drive that showed up when the BSOD happened. Hope the drive isn't damaged. . My most recent backup was at the beginning of the month but I don't backup stuff like save games.
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Jan 28, 2015 19:02
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Okay goons, help me make sure I'm not overlooking something before I pull the trigger on a new PSU: i7 2600k Asus xxxxxtreme or some crap mother board 3 HDD's SSD 650w Antec PowerBlue PSU Electricity went off at the house, computer wont' boot. Unplugged, held down power, plugged back in, wont' boot. Tore computer down basically to the motherboard, won't boot. HOWEVER if I jumper the power supply to boot it that way, it comes on. I can plug it back into the board, and it will boot. If I power it down (in any capacity), it will not boot again. PSU or the motherboard?
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Jan 29, 2015 00:15
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Leaning towards system board on that one. If the power supply switches on when manually jumped and the system is stable the probability of the power supply being bad is quite low. Have you tried manually shorting the power switch pins on the system board just to rule out the switch in your case?
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Jan 29, 2015 00:22
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It's this motherboard (Asus P67 Extreme6). I'm assuming the little power button in the lower corner (left on that picture) is the equivalent. That's the thing though, once I get it to power on by shorting the PSU directly, it will power on the entire system. Not sure for how long, but it wont' let it power again after that. I have to short the PSU and then plug it into the board to power it.
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Jan 29, 2015 00:36
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How are you shorting the PSU while the main ATX connector is plugged in? Electrically, the power switch performs the same function as the shorting thing. If one works, the other should, too.
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Jan 29, 2015 00:44
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Factory Factory posted:How are you shorting the PSU while the main ATX connector is plugged in? I'm taking the connector out, shorting it, it fires up, then plugging it back in, pressing the "power button" and it fires up, shut it down, and nothing. e: I'm on it now. Let's do a few reboots to see if I can figure out what the hell is going on. And I can't get to replicate the issue. Going to post a Haus to see if anyone might be able to figure it out, but I think it's pointing motherboard at this point in time. Gothmog1065 fucked around with this message at 01:03 on Jan 29, 2015 |
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Jan 29, 2015 00:49
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Factory Factory posted:Intel NUC, add your own RAM and SSD. Alereon posted:This, a Core i5 NUC is an AMAZING little machine with good RAM and an SSD (you need to buy a WiFi card for Haswell NUCs but it's included on Broadwell models I believe). Note that the NUC knock-off machines from companies like Gigabyte and Zotac tend to be garbage. The lower-end NUCs with Core i3 or slower processors aren't really going to be mistaken for a real computer in the way you can an i5+ NUC. Thanks! Looks like a great option. It will turn out a little expensive though, but I can't get myself to buy the i3 version either.
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Jan 29, 2015 01:16
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Honestly it depends on what you're doing with it. I have a celeron NUC running Windows 8.1 as a HTPC and the only time you really notice the CPU's shortcomings is when you jog ahead substantially in a network streamed HD video. If you're just using it for light desktop use you probably wouldn't notice the i3.
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Jan 29, 2015 01:28
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Danger Man posted:Thanks! Looks like a great option. It will turn out a little expensive though, but I can't get myself to buy the i3 version either.  With a good SSD, RAM, and WiFi card you'll be CPU limited all the time, and the i3 4250U offers a much higher performance ceiling.
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Jan 29, 2015 03:02
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Last pc perspective talks about the 840 evo post-patch and says that it might still have some small issues maybe https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CIyjLSsGxZ0&t=3230s
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Feb 2, 2015 21:22
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Why are some USB HUBS powered, and others unpowered? Is the safe bet to just get a powered hub? Also is there a relatively large USB hub goons recommend?
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Feb 5, 2015 01:19
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It is all about the amps, if you want to plug an iPad, iPhone, and webcam into a hub you are going to need external power because the host will not be able to supply enough. Also, financials, unpowered hubs are by definition cheaper.
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Feb 5, 2015 01:26
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Knifegrab posted:is there a relatively large USB hub goons recommend?
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Feb 5, 2015 02:41
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If you need a lot of ports, something like this would be good: http://www.amazon.com/Charging-Adap...rds=usb+3.0+hub It's certainly overkill for most purposes though.
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Feb 5, 2015 02:48
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Is there any kind of gadget that will turn a wired USB peripheral into a wireless USB peripheral? So: [ PC USB PORT ] -> USB Cable -> [ Gizmo ] ~ ~ ~ Wireless ~ ~ ~ [ Gizmo other end ] <- USB Cable <- [ USB Peripheral ] Let's just say for argument's sake that I'm not interested in buying a new wireless keyboard and I'd like to use my expensive USB wired keyboard "wirelessly", for example. Actually, this example is exactly what my scenario is. I have a nice expensive mechanical keyboard and my PC is inconveniently far from my desk, to the point where I managed to stretch an HDMI cable but any other cables I pull can't really be hidden well. I have a wireless mouse and that's fine, but if I wanted to convert my wired keyboard to wireless am I completely SOL? Since this is a keyboard I don't need it to be high bitrate or anything. Google searching "USB wireless" is pretty useless for exactly the reason you think it might be.
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Feb 5, 2015 03:19
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Martytoof posted:Is there any kind of gadget that will turn a wired USB peripheral into a wireless USB peripheral? So: These devices existt: http://www.portset.co.uk/usb-to-bluetooth-converter/ Of course, they cost a good deal because they're low-volume devices primarily produced for special needs environments. They do support standard USB keyboards and mice though, as well as coming with a built in battery pack to handle the bluetooth radio.
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Feb 5, 2015 03:29
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Martytoof posted:Is there any kind of gadget that will turn a wired USB peripheral into a wireless USB peripheral? So:
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Feb 5, 2015 03:29
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Martytoof posted:Is there any kind of gadget that will turn a wired USB peripheral into a wireless USB peripheral? So: Don't know how good they are, but I saw this on Massdrop and it sounds like what you're describing. http://handheldsci.com/kb
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Feb 5, 2015 03:32
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Thanks guys. That $60 thing is just in the range of what I'm willing to pay to try something out for a laugh to boot. Much appreciated!
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Feb 5, 2015 05:32
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I need a really minor backup solution to store some somewhat sensitive legal and financial documents that I am digitizing. I keep them on my Google Drive account (is this my first mistake? It has 2FA and a strong, strong password) but I would like a local backup that I update weekly or so. Mostly protection against cryptolocker-esque bullshit, so I'm guessing I'm best off with a wired drive that I plug in only when I'm updating it? Or are there network devices that I can use? I'd also like it to easily support some sort of encryption in case it gets lifted in a burglary.
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Feb 7, 2015 18:09
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IuniusBrutus posted:I need a really minor backup solution to store some somewhat sensitive legal and financial documents that I am digitizing. I keep them on my Google Drive account (is this my first mistake? It has 2FA and a strong, strong password) but I would like a local backup that I update weekly or so. Bitlocker a USB drive keep it on your keychain make a recurring google Calendar reminder to back it up like once a week.
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Feb 7, 2015 20:18
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IuniusBrutus posted:I need a really minor backup solution to store some somewhat sensitive legal and financial documents that I am digitizing. I keep them on my Google Drive account (is this my first mistake? It has 2FA and a strong, strong password) but I would like a local backup that I update weekly or so. Crashplan. It does local drive copy, remote copy over LAN or internet, cloud copy, all encrypted. Totally free if you don't use their cloud storage. Works fine with local removable devices.
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Feb 7, 2015 20:35
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Another alternative, SpiderOak. It's like DropBox, but with zero-knowledge encryption so the company cannot recover your files even in principle. There's a referral chain thread somewhere in this forum, too, for a little extra free space. I don't know if it has 2FA though.
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Feb 8, 2015 08:32
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So I've been having some NUC woes; I've built two NUCs for work mine is the i5 version with 4GB of RAM and an SSD, the second is the cheaper i3 one (D34010WYKH) with 4GB of RAM and a laptop drive. The first one is working swimmingly but this second one isn't displaying video. I've got a mini-DP adapter and an HDMI cable going, and I'm trying several different monitors but I'm not getting any output. The light on the top of the unit is a constant blue so it's not a RAM issue. I'm at a loss as to what to try, I have a HDMI/mini-HDMI cable at work I'm hoping will do the trick but I don't have access to it right now.
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Feb 9, 2015 04:17
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The PSU in my current system is now five years old so I was thinking about replacing it but it's a Corsair HX650 and it has a seven year warranty. I was going to just replace it but that would mean having to rewire my computer or at least get another HX650 and swap it out. It's currently powering a 2500K@4.2GHz, a single GTX660Ti, two hard drives and a SSD drive so I'm not taxing too much while gaming am I? Should I even be worried about it and if the Power Supply does indeed fail at some point will it take the rest of my system with it or is there a fail-safe built into it to prevent that from happening?
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Feb 9, 2015 08:57
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spasticColon posted:The PSU in my current system is now five years old so I was thinking about replacing it but it's a Corsair HX650 and it has a seven year warranty. I was going to just replace it but that would mean having to rewire my computer or at least get another HX650 and swap it out. It's currently powering a 2500K@4.2GHz, a single GTX660Ti, two hard drives and a SSD drive so I'm not taxing too much while gaming am I? Should I even be worried about it and if the Power Supply does indeed fail at some point will it take the rest of my system with it or is there a fail-safe built into it to prevent that from happening? Use power supplies until the end of the warranty or for 5 years, whichever comes later. I'd keep it until you hit 7 years if it's not giving you any trouble. At that point buy something nice and efficient; whatever the parts picking thread is recommending at the time. Redoing the power wires in a case is a pain but it doesn't take too long compared to how long they last, but I'd still put it off for a while. Power supply failures can be graceful or they can be catastrophic, I've seen both. Most of the graceful ones I've seen have been bad PSUs that gradually went from working to barely booting up and then not booting up, and the catastrophic ones have been hit by surges (the worst was motherboard, cpu, PSU and ram all dead at once). That's just my general experience though and bad PSUs can absolutely kill everything they're hooked up to and surges can be graceful, there's just too many variables to be definitive. e: one time I looked at a PC that someone with anger issues had punched the top of. Everything was dead including the drives so I have no idea what he did but it probably shorted a bunch of poo poo out at once.
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Feb 9, 2015 09:29
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spasticColon posted:The PSU in my current system is now five years old so I was thinking about replacing it but it's a Corsair HX650 and it has a seven year warranty. I was going to just replace it but that would mean having to rewire my computer or at least get another HX650 and swap it out. It's currently powering a 2500K@4.2GHz, a single GTX660Ti, two hard drives and a SSD drive so I'm not taxing too much while gaming am I? Should I even be worried about it and if the Power Supply does indeed fail at some point will it take the rest of my system with it or is there a fail-safe built into it to prevent that from happening?
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Feb 9, 2015 20:26
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