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Doctor Zero posted:Yeah same. I got the black and decker 20v max trimmer/edger and it works like a charm. I wouldn't want to go clearing brush with it, but it will run for a long time on a charge, it's light and easy. I edge the driveway every time I mow now because it's so convenient. Also got the 20v hedge trimmer and its a dream as well. And no more cutting extension cords in half. I got the 40v Ryobi string trimmer and it works great, the only issue is the weight of the battery on the handle end- that sucker is heavy and trimming the yard is quite a workout.
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Feb 5, 2015 19:41
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For my workshop project, I need to get a nailer and air compressor. Any recommendations? The nailer has to be able to do 16d common nails (3.5" long, .162" thick) for the framing work and 8d commons (2.5" long, .131" thick) for the plywood. I have zero experience with nailers and compressors, and there's a billion different modes/options for these things. I'd prefer safety and control over ease-of-use, so e.g. I'd be a bit worried about using a bump nailer. Pricewise, while they don't have to be super-cheap tools, I don't anticipate using the nailer at the very least all that often, so I'd rather it not be excessively expensive. I was considering maybe this nailer (or the kit it comes in) though it's not clear that it can handle nails of the necessary thickness.
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Feb 6, 2015 02:09
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:For my workshop project, I need to get a nailer and air compressor. Any recommendations? The nailer has to be able to do 16d common nails (3.5" long, .162" thick) for the framing work and 8d commons (2.5" long, .131" thick) for the plywood. I have zero experience with nailers and compressors, and there's a billion different modes/options for these things. I'd prefer safety and control over ease-of-use, so e.g. I'd be a bit worried about using a bump nailer. Do you really want a compressor? http://m.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-18-Volt-ONE-AirStrike-16GA-Cordless-Straight-Finish-Nailer-Tool-Only-P325/204667878
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Feb 6, 2015 02:33
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asdf32 posted:Do you really want a compressor? That's a finish nailer; there's no way it's going to drive a 16d common nail. I'm not seeing electric framing nailers that can drive the kind of nails I need, plus the electrics are more expensive than pneumatics by a significant amount, so the price premium of going pneumatic+compressor doesn't seem to be all that excessive. Plus someday I'd like to get a pressure washer 
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Feb 6, 2015 02:35
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:That's a finish nailer; there's no way it's going to drive a 16d common nail. I'm not seeing electric framing nailers that can drive the kind of nails I need, plus the electrics are more expensive than pneumatics by a significant amount, so the price premium of going pneumatic+compressor doesn't seem to be all that excessive. Just realized that. I read 16d as 16 guage.
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Feb 6, 2015 02:39
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:For my workshop project, I need to get a nailer and air compressor. Any recommendations? The nailer has to be able to do 16d common nails (3.5" long, .162" thick) for the framing work and 8d commons (2.5" long, .131" thick) for the plywood. I have zero experience with nailers and compressors, and there's a billion different modes/options for these things. I'd prefer safety and control over ease-of-use, so e.g. I'd be a bit worried about using a bump nailer. I went with a Harbor Freight 8gal compressor and it works pretty great. Haven't owned it very long, but Google reviews all said HF compressors are safe. I could have got a Husky for not much more but already have the HF unit. For a nail gun, I managed to find an 18ga Bostitch brad nailer at a pawn shop for $30. 18ga is not big enough for what you need but I did see tons of nailers of all sizes at my local pawn shops. I like to buy cheap first and it either lives on forever in misery or it dies and I know what tools to really spend monemoney on.
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Feb 6, 2015 02:46
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Crotch Fruit posted:I went with a Harbor Freight 8gal compressor and it works pretty great. Haven't owned it very long, but Google reviews all said HF compressors are safe. As a corollary, I'll tell you that I've been through three of the same model (smallest 240V). The first one lasted about a week, the next one lasted about 6 months in which time I sanded and painted a car using it, then the last one (which is currently dead) dies after another year of occasional service. The wrist pin was seized and trashed the piston. I got the parts but haven't bothered to install them yet.
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Feb 6, 2015 02:54
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You say its the smallest 240V but mine is 120v, where are you from? Sucks about the first one, lemons happen, but sanding and painting a car sounds like too big a project for an 8 gallon. The tag on mine said it would only be good for occasional spraying. I did get a 1 year warranty on mine, I will be happy even if it dies right after the warranty ends.
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Feb 6, 2015 03:57
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Crotch Fruit posted:You say its the smallest 240V but mine is 120v, where are you from? Sucks about the first one, lemons happen, but sanding and painting a car sounds like too big a project for an 8 gallon. The tag on mine said it would only be good for occasional spraying. I did get a 1 year warranty on mine, I will be happy even if it dies right after the warranty ends. It's 21 gallon 240v, not a 120v 8 gallon. It's this piece of poo poo right here:  And even if you think sanding/painting a car is too big for that, the first and third ones munched themselves in short order. Yet I still have my 15 gallon 120v 15 year old Craftsman that has sanded an painted like 6 cars in it's time along with everything else I've thrown at it. The only reason I went with the larger HF one was for faster refresh/more CFMs so I could sand longer/not have to wait as much. Again from purely anecdotal my-own-only experience it was a mistake and a waste of money. Buy the largest and most importantly best quality compressor you can afford. Quality comes before capacity because unless you are doing poo poo with it for a living (in which case you should be able to justify a proper compressor) you can wait for it to pump back up.
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Feb 6, 2015 04:08
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Motronic posted:Again from purely anecdotal my-own-only experience it was a mistake and a waste of money. Buy the largest and most importantly best quality compressor you can afford. Quality comes before capacity because unless you are doing poo poo with it for a living (in which case you should be able to justify a proper compressor) you can wait for it to pump back up. There's probably always room in your life for a small pancake compressor though. With a 30 gallon unit, you're doing a combination of hauling it around and running huge runs of hose. For running a finish nailer redoing all the moulding in my house, I probably would have had a pretty unpleasant time with anything bigger.
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Feb 6, 2015 18:54
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Okay, right now I'm looking at this 3.5-gal compressor and the Ridgid R350RHE nailer; the latter mostly because it explicitly notes in the description that it's able to do 16d common nails, while other nailers I've looked at haven't provided similar assurances. The compressor's not very big, but I don't think I need to have a huge air capacity for this job; especially early on I've no doubt I'll be a very slow worker. Plus I have to move all the tools inside at the end of each day, so portability is a plus.
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Feb 6, 2015 22:53
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:The compressor's not very big, But it perfect for a nailer. That's also a pretty good compressor. They are considered "disposable" in the trade, but it should last you. I actually have one that has a bad high limit switch. It's not worth fixing, but still handy to have around and carefully use.
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Feb 7, 2015 00:21
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The R350RHE says it uses .17 cubic feet per cycle at 100 psi, which is a lot more than a roofing or brad gun. You are going to be able to shoot like 4 nails in succession before you have to wait for it to pump back up. The Porter cable c2002 is $100 on amazon as well, but it's 6 gallons, 2.6cfm@90psi, and has 150 max psi. I don't think framing with a hammer is as huge a pain in the rear end as roofing. Are you sure you want to spend a lot of money on one?
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Feb 7, 2015 17:36
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lwoodio posted:The R350RHE says it uses .17 cubic feet per cycle at 100 psi, which is a lot more than a roofing or brad gun. You are going to be able to shoot like 4 nails in succession before you have to wait for it to pump back up. Which is pretty much perfect for framing. He's not doing this for a living and he's not gonna be all that fast by himself on a first big project.
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Feb 7, 2015 21:04
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Motronic posted:Which is pretty much perfect for framing. He's not doing this for a living and he's not gonna be all that fast by himself on a first big project. Well, the big question is, how much does it use to drive the 8d nails I need for securing plywood? Because I'll be driving far more of those than I will be of the framing nails. If it uses the same amount regardless of nail size, then that could potentially be a problem.
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Feb 7, 2015 21:30
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Well, the big question is, how much does it use to drive the 8d nails I need for securing plywood? Because I'll be driving far more of those than I will be of the framing nails. If it uses the same amount regardless of nail size, then that could potentially be a problem. Nah, it won't. If you try to leave that thing turned all the way up driving 8d nails it will blow them through the plywood. You may still be waiting a bit, but it shouldn't be too terrible. For what it's worth, I'm a big fan of screws for things like this. A nice lightweight hammer driver with deckmate or other star/square bit screws does a nice job. Yeah, it takes a bit longer but things are real sold when you're done.
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Feb 7, 2015 21:36
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Motronic posted:Nah, it won't. If you try to leave that thing turned all the way up driving 8d nails it will blow them through the plywood. Okay, good to know the nailgun won't be excessively overkill. Regarding screws, do you mean for holding the plywood, or in general? My plans were required to specifically list what kinds of nails I was going to use for basically everything; I'd need to find (and get okayed by the city) "equivalent" screws for each use case. They would be a lot more solid than nails though, granted.
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Feb 7, 2015 22:31
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:My plans were required to specifically list what kinds of nails I was going to use for basically everything; I'd need to find (and get okayed by the city) "equivalent" screws for each use case. DO NOT DO THIS. Not worth the effort. You're too far along to worry about that kind of things now. If I knew your plan approval included those kind of details I wouldn't have even brought it up. But to clarify: I was talking about sheet stock. So the plywood on your walls, subfloor and any drywall/etc. Roof sheeting who cares - that's what nail guns are for. Screws are fine for framing but too slow and basically unnecessary when your screwed-in sheet stock is holding it together. I'm assuming that if your fasteners had to be approved on your plans that the framing/sheeting nails are ring shank. They'll do the job just fine.
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Feb 8, 2015 03:45
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Are the Milwaukee heated jackets/sweaters a silly gimmick, or are they actually worth the money? I'll be doing a lot of work in my garage (lots of sawing) and we're having some pretty terrible winter weather.
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Feb 9, 2015 04:34
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melon cat posted:Are the Milwaukee heated jackets/sweaters a silly gimmick, or are they actually worth the money? I'll be doing a lot of work in my garage (lots of sawing) and we're having some pretty terrible winter weather. Lots of people say otherwise, but I tried buying one for my wife and it didn't do anything.
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Feb 9, 2015 04:40
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melon cat posted:Are the Milwaukee heated jackets/sweaters a silly gimmick, or are they actually worth the money?
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Feb 9, 2015 05:06
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melon cat posted:Are the Milwaukee heated jackets/sweaters a silly gimmick, or are they actually worth the money? I'll be doing a lot of work in my garage (lots of sawing) and we're having some pretty terrible winter weather. Grabbed one for my wife and she lives in it. Tried it a couple times and it's pretty toasty. It's only heated in the upper chest/back area, not a big deal but just don't expect a fully heated thing. Also make sure you get it snug, if it's baggy like a normal sweatshirt the heat isn't near as noticeable. I'm not a sweatshirt enthusiast but it does feel pretty nice disregarding the fact that it's heated. The core is lined with like waffle thermal material and the sleeves and hood have the super soft nap stuff in the inside.
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Feb 9, 2015 15:41
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I have the Bosch jacket and like it quite a bit. It's a well made jacket and fairly warm just by itself, too.
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Feb 9, 2015 17:37
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Spent 4hrs yesterday wielding a Bosh SDS roto hammer. Put down 3/4 CDX over our slab so i can install hardwood later. Attached the ply to the slab with 2.25" Tapcons. The roto hammer worked like a boss, but I burned through 4 SDS bits (broke 3, wore out 1) sinking 125 tapcons. Tapcon aficionados... when you sink them do you go for the clutch drive or the impact? I started out with a 18v Dewalt drill / driver and set the clutch at like 15, the screws would sink half way and then I'd just end up stripping the poo poo out of the head. I gave up after burning 5 screws and grabbed the impact instead. It worked 100% better but I did have to be careful about not over torquing the screws. Actually I wasn't that careful because I think i snapped a dozen or so.
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Feb 9, 2015 20:07
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uwaeve posted:Grabbed one for my wife and she lives in it. You say your only heats the upper body, is it one of the newer models with the hand warmer? The hand warmer is down near the waist so I assume it would heat your lower body too. I cant justify spending that much on a Milwaukee jacket (but I would love a plain hoodie with the logo. . .) mainly because it is simply not cold enough here and I don't want to use my batteries for a jacket.
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Feb 9, 2015 20:10
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melon cat posted:Are the Milwaukee heated jackets/sweaters a silly gimmick, or are they actually worth the money? I'll be doing a lot of work in my garage (lots of sawing) and we're having some pretty terrible winter weather. I bought one for when I did Valet, and it was pretty great. Even without turning it on, it kept me warm, and was totally wind resistant. The heating strips worked great too, kept my chest warm, and the hand warming pockets are fantastic all on their own. Only real disappointment was the battery life. It claims to have a 6+ hour life, but I found on full blast I was lucky to get 4. Very soft and comfy on the inside too.
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Feb 10, 2015 03:21
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Crotch Fruit posted:You say your only heats the upper body, is it one of the newer models with the hand warmer? The hand warmer is down near the waist so I assume it would heat your lower body too. I cant justify spending that much on a Milwaukee jacket (but I would love a plain hoodie with the logo. . .) mainly because it is simply not cold enough here and I don't want to use my batteries for a jacket. From what I remember the hoodies have "3 zones" (upper back, right chest, left chest) and the jackets have "5 zones" (those three plus two pocket zones as handwarmers). I could be wrong and there could be some old/new distinction there as well. I got the hoodie and there's definitely nothing in the bottom half except comfy pockets.
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Feb 10, 2015 05:14
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Man router bits are expensive as all hell! Just buying one can cost more than my router did. Is it worth buying the expensive bits or should I go cheap? I think I'd like a cheap set to experiment with though... It's hard to say which types I'll have most use of so perhaps a cheapo set and the ones I have most use for I get better versions of? Also anyone sharpen their own bits, given the costs it seems prudent.
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Feb 10, 2015 13:30
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I own this router bit set and it's served me well. It doesn't have any of the really fancy bits (fanciest is an ogee bit), but it does most of the common jobs just fine.
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Feb 10, 2015 15:51
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I own this router bit set and it's served me well. It doesn't have any of the really fancy bits (fanciest is an ogee bit), but it does most of the common jobs just fine. I've used these for a couple of years now and they've been really great so far. I don't know that you could beat them for the price.
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Feb 10, 2015 16:59
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I own this router bit set and it's served me well. It doesn't have any of the really fancy bits (fanciest is an ogee bit), but it does most of the common jobs just fine. I have that set too and it's been pretty decent. The only other bits I have bought are a couple of up spiral bits and a slot cutter. The one up spiral bit I got with a quarter inch shank broke in half while cutting a groove in a piece of fir. All my half inch shank bits have held up though. Oh, I cut a bunch of finger joints in pine and the straight bits in that set gave a ton of tear out but the up cut bits did beautifully.
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Feb 10, 2015 17:12
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Definitely get a cheap set for variety then replace what you wear out with better bits.
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Feb 10, 2015 17:52
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I invested in a Milwaukee 6390-20 circular saw, and I think I want a rip fence or a rip guide. I see there are two options, the rip fence is extremely straight forward and easy to tell how it operates. The rip guide however is a little more intriguing, I guess it is just different. It is hinged, but I am a little confused about why there an extra bar sticking out on right side of the hinge, or why is the hinge a u shape with a hole at the bottom? Is there something more that can or needs to be attached to the rip guide? I am considering ordering both a rip fence and rip guide simply because they are $7 each and might as well just pay shipping once so I can find out which one I like. I doubt I want the rip guide, but is there anything (besides folding out of the way) it can do that the rip fence can not do?
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Feb 10, 2015 21:29
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Crotch Fruit posted:I invested in a Milwaukee 6390-20 circular saw, and I think I want a rip fence or a rip guide. I see there are two options, the rip fence is extremely straight forward and easy to tell how it operates. The rip guide however is a little more intriguing, I guess it is just different. It is hinged, but I am a little confused about why there an extra bar sticking out on right side of the hinge, or why is the hinge a u shape with a hole at the bottom? Is there something more that can or needs to be attached to the rip guide? I am considering ordering both a rip fence and rip guide simply because they are $7 each and might as well just pay shipping once so I can find out which one I like. I doubt I want the rip guide, but is there anything (besides folding out of the way) it can do that the rip fence can not do? It looks like the rip guide is basically an edge guide that bolts onto the saw. The hinge saves you the hassle of having to remove it when you don't need it.
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Feb 12, 2015 00:07
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On a related note, I'm going to need some way to cut plywood sheets to size for my workshop project. It seems like track saws are ~2x more expensive compared to getting a standard circular saw and a guide system. Would I be missing out on important features if I went the latter route? The only obvious one would be plunge capability, and while that'd be nice for cutting rough openings for windows, I don't think I actually need it -- I could just use my jigsaw to cut an opening to get the circular saw started. Any advice on specific tools to look at, either way?
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Feb 17, 2015 01:41
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Make a simple guide fence like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qIeIZdrbz-Y I have the Makita track saw, and while it's awesome- I could have just bought a new blade for my smaller 6" Porter Cable and made a guide for 1/20th the cost.
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Feb 17, 2015 19:49
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the spyder posted:Make a simple guide fence like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qIeIZdrbz-Y That's pretty awesome, thanks. Dunno that I want to make an 8'-long fence so I can cut the sheathing for the underside of the soffits and eaves, but I can probably just carefully place a 2x4 as a guide for those cuts; there's not many of them. Any advice on circular saws, then? Do you like the Porter Cable?
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Feb 17, 2015 21:20
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:That's pretty awesome, thanks. Dunno that I want to make an 8'-long fence so I can cut the sheathing for the underside of the soffits and eaves, but I can probably just carefully place a 2x4 as a guide for those cuts; there's not many of them. Well, depends on budget and use case. I have 5, ranging from Skil, Dewalt, Porter Cable, Milwaukee, and Makita. If you are a weekend warrior, our Skil 7 1/4 has held up for years of abuse around the house. If you're a framer, the Dewalt/Skil Wormdrive/Makita Hypoid are all great saws. If you're a general wood worker, a Porter Cable, Milwaukee, Makita would all fit the bill. Power, weight, ease of use all should play in when choosing a saw. I personally like my little Porter Cable 6" USA made saw for general shop use. It's light weight, powerful, and cuts dead on with a good fence. Regardless of what saw you choose, short of my Makita panel saw, the best thing I did for any of the others was put a fresh blade on them.
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Feb 17, 2015 22:03
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the spyder posted:Well, depends on budget and use case. I have 5, ranging from Skil, Dewalt, Porter Cable, Milwaukee, and Makita. If you are a weekend warrior, our Skil 7 1/4 has held up for years of abuse around the house. If you're a framer, the Dewalt/Skil Wormdrive/Makita Hypoid are all great saws. If you're a general wood worker, a Porter Cable, Milwaukee, Makita would all fit the bill. Power, weight, ease of use all should play in when choosing a saw. I personally like my little Porter Cable 6" USA made saw for general shop use. It's light weight, powerful, and cuts dead on with a good fence. Regardless of what saw you choose, short of my Makita panel saw, the best thing I did for any of the others was put a fresh blade on them. To tag along with this, do you have any suggestions for a good all around blade? I typically use mine for home projects like building shelves in the garage and boards for planter boxes.
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Feb 17, 2015 22:18
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I've owned a PC circ saw for over ten years. It's lightweight and does great, I've never considered buying something different.
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Feb 17, 2015 23:40
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