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If I'm understanding correctly, the left end screws into the junction box/fan/hood/whatever, and the metal washer digs in to keep it firmly in place. You would tighten it down with a wrench on the center hexagonal part. The wires would come in from the right. Once everything is in place you tighten the screwcap on the right to hold the wires tightly. And the unstripped part of the wire is what should pass through the gray gadget. The only stripped parts or single wires should be inside the junction box. slap me silly fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Feb 20, 2015 |
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Feb 20, 2015 23:23
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Long shot question: Place I rent has somewhat decent appliances included. Recently the fridge has struggled to maintain its internal temperature. Recently I had to set the thermostat to the lowest it would go (34 degrees) however a thermostat in the fridge reports 48 degrees. This I feel is causing food to go badly much more quickly than it otherwise would. I've also noticed that the inside of the fridge is usually really wet (visible condensation on the walls and any containers). Could this be an indication of a problem that needs to be addressed, or am I imaging things?
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Feb 21, 2015 03:16
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Wicaeed posted:Could this be an indication of a problem that needs to be addressed, or am I imaging things? Well, your fridge is headed on a one-way street to giving you and yours food poisoning, so, yes, address this immediately! Could be a wide variety of things though, so without additional information, hard to say what the root cause is.
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Feb 21, 2015 03:19
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Your fridge is broken and you should bug the landlord until they fix it.
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Feb 21, 2015 03:40
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slap me silly posted:Your fridge is broken and you should bug the landlord until they fix it. Yeah, that's the reason you're paying out the rear end for rent instead of a nice reasonable mortgage (well, and possibly bad credit and/or a host of other reasons). But one of the few perks of renting is that you can call up the landlord and get poo poo fixed at no additional charge. Sure, it might be a week before they actually get around to calling the repairman, but they will eventually. Conversely, one of the perks of being a homeowner is that while you do have to pay to fix whatever breaks, you can get it fixed on the day it breaks. (Sorry, I'm just bitter about my slumlord taking a week to send a guy to fix the A/C in the middle of Texas summer and two days to call a plumber when the water pipe froze and popped.) As for diagnosis, I have a working knowledge of refrigeration from going to work with my dad, sort of an apprenticeship without the actual learning of the craft. He did commercial/residential HVAC, but it's the same principle as a fridge, just on a different scale. Not cooling and water dripping down the walls means it's hosed. For your A/C, that means calling my dad to come out and put more Freon in it; for a fridge, it means having it replaced -- they're cheap enough that it's not worth finding/fixing the leak and refilling it, if they even have ports to add more refrigerant. Whatever the case, it's the landlord's problem.
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Feb 21, 2015 16:05
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Delivery McGee posted:Conversely, one of the perks of being a homeowner is that while you do have to pay to fix whatever breaks, you can get it fixed on the day it breaks. Ha! I wish. Every time my HVAC has busted in the middle of a temperature extreme it's been at least half a week to get it dealt with. New dishwasher took 3 days. Etc etc.
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Feb 21, 2015 17:43
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slap me silly posted:Ha! I wish. Every time my HVAC has busted in the middle of a temperature extreme it's been at least half a week to get it dealt with. New dishwasher took 3 days. Etc etc. This is why you have family that can do all this poo poo  It only took him a month and constant calling to get it fixed.  Though I did get the refrigerant free, the compressor at cost, and the labor was $100 for the labor (One of his guys came over and did it for extra money). Holy gently caress did my electric bill go up in the meantime though. Saved quite a few  On to a question of mine. I reaaaaaaaaaaally need to insulate my home. This cold snap has reminded me just how much, my central can't keep up with heating he house, and the gas heater barely helps. The biggest problem right now are the exterior walls. The house was built in the 1940's, and the inside, there's drywall over the original beadboard, and on the outside, there is the original siding, followed by a layer of what looks like just galvanized sheet metal, 1/8" foam insulation, then the non-insulated vinyl siding. I'm looking to fill the wall cavities. Of the research I've done, it looks like blown insulation is going to be the way to go for me, is there any reason to consider foam? It looks incredibly expensive, and unlikely to even be applied in the wall cavities. I might do the foam for the flooring when I get to it, but the walls need it worse. It also looks like Lowes has a free blower rental for 24hrs if you buy a certain amount (Not sure how much yet). tl;dr Any reason to take a second glance at foam over blown insulation?
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Feb 21, 2015 18:10
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Mine was built in that era. It is brick, which means two things: there isn't enough space in the walls for blown-in insulation to make much difference, and putting insulation in there could change up the moisture movement and possible gently caress things up badly. Have you seen to air sealing? That's a good first step - cheaper, less hassle, and still very effective if you have air moving in and out around windows and doors.
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Feb 21, 2015 18:16
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Gothmog1065 posted:tl;dr Any reason to take a second glance at foam over blown insulation? For filling existing wall cavities probably not. But worry about two other things first: Air sealing. Windows are terrible for this and simply caulking around the inside trim can make a huge difference. Outlets in outside walls that are leaky can let a lot of air in as well. And of course doors. Sealing up an exterior door and putting on a quality storm door is quite effective. Then caulk the trim as well. Then look up. Once you're air sealed that's where most of your heat is going and it should be easier/cheaper to deal with if you have a traditional attic.
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Feb 21, 2015 18:21
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Motronic posted:For filling existing wall cavities probably not. I have a 1.5 story house. The "attic" is a short room (7 ft tall to the ceiling, which is laid on the collars of the roof). I insulated it with R15 last year, top and sides, and it stays surprisingly warm compared to the rest of the house. The biggest problem is probably things like the air leaks you mentioned, and the fact there is basically no insulation in my exterior walls. I do have a few tubes of terrible caulk, so I'll do all the insides of the windows and doors today, which won't be a problem. the doors need to be replaced badly, I know. We'll start with the basics however, thanks!
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Feb 21, 2015 18:58
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Gothmog1065 posted:I insulated it with R15 last year, top and sides What part of the world are you in? R15 would be a joke in a ceiling here in the northeast. You'd need a minimum of DOUBLE that. Which is why they sell R-30C (c for "cathedral ceiling") which is R-30 fiberglass insulation that will fit in a 2x6 stud bay.
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Feb 21, 2015 19:07
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Motronic posted:What part of the world are you in? R15 would be a joke in a ceiling here in the northeast. You'd need a minimum of DOUBLE that. Sorry, didn't specify (even though it is on the ceiling too), most of that is on the walls. The upstairs is a smallish room that has boards nailed up, and I put insulation on the outside of that. The ceiling has R13, which the retarded roofer bought because I didn't specify. It is sheathed however which may or may not inpact anything. It's not being changed any time soon as we don't have an actual access to that ceiling area (He put it in by cutting a hole in the slats when he was putting the metal down).
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Feb 21, 2015 19:51
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slap me silly posted:If I'm understanding correctly, the left end screws into the junction box/fan/hood/whatever, and the metal washer digs in to keep it firmly in place. You would tighten it down with a wrench on the center hexagonal part. The wires would come in from the right. Once everything is in place you tighten the screwcap on the right to hold the wires tightly. That would actually make a lot of sense. Thanks. Now, this same range exhaust has the usual green grounding screw. I have a bare ground wire that I'll be connecting to it. Are you supposed to tighten the green grounding screw after winding the ground wire around it? Also, is it sufficient to wind it around just one time around?  Sorry for all of these questions. I just kinda don't want to cause a disaster. 
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Feb 22, 2015 00:55
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Gothmog1065 posted:I insulated it with R15 last year, top and sides, and it stays surprisingly warm compared to the rest of the house. That's because the rest of your house's heat is rising up to there, not because that's anywhere near decent insulation. For air sealing, don't forget your floor/basement. The main force driving air leakage in homes is the stack effect, so plugging leaks at the top and the bottom has the biggest impact. Also, one of the benefits of filling your walls with dense-pack cellulose (which generally requires a stronger blower than you can rent from home depot) is that it gets tight enough to significantly restrict air flow, reducing air leakage. Zhentar fucked around with this message at 02:09 on Feb 22, 2015 |
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Feb 22, 2015 02:06
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Make a U-shaped loop in the wire and hook it around the screw, then tighten it down like gently caress. Don't actually try to wrap it all the way around. Orient the loop so that tightening the screw also tightens the loop, just like you'd do for an outlet:  Although . . . are there no special instructions or a fitting or something in the installation manual for that ground screw? Seems a little weird that everything is painted, paint gets in the way of good contact. slap me silly fucked around with this message at 02:54 on Feb 22, 2015 |
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Feb 22, 2015 02:49
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Lets say I want to make a large plastic honeycomb, like 100mm+ cells, I'm thinking I could use pvc tube, put it into a hexagonal (wooden) mold, I then need to heat it to 100'c+. I'm then at a loss, I can't think of an easy way to push the plastic out to the mold. A mandrel would be a lot of work to make and might just push the plastic through, I can't think of a way to inflate the tube, sealing it would be difficult. How much heat can a car inner tube take? Would a hot air gun be sufficient to bring it up to temperature?
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Feb 22, 2015 14:21
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Cakefool posted:Lets say I want to make a large plastic honeycomb, like 100mm+ cells, I'm thinking I could use pvc tube, put it into a hexagonal (wooden) mold, I then need to heat it to 100'c+. I'm then at a loss, I can't think of an easy way to push the plastic out to the mold. A mandrel would be a lot of work to make and might just push the plastic through, I can't think of a way to inflate the tube, sealing it would be difficult. How much heat can a car inner tube take? Would a hot air gun be sufficient to bring it up to temperature? Is this solely decorative or does it need to perform some function? I'm thinking the easiest way would be to form plastic sheets. If you connect them all with the open joint in the same alignment they would hold shape (final row would be rotated 180 north to south) EvilMayo fucked around with this message at 15:33 on Feb 22, 2015 |
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Feb 22, 2015 14:34
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I'd like it to take a little weight (2kg per cell) so that way would require a good bond and thick walls, but I could easily wrap sheets around a buck. I'll keep that idea thanks.
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Feb 22, 2015 14:55
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Cakefool posted:I'd like it to take a little weight (2kg per cell) so that way would require a good bond and thick walls, but I could easily wrap sheets around a buck. I'll keep that idea thanks. just make a single 60 (typo corrected) degree bend and form the sheets using that. I think that would be the most efficient construction. If you are putting weight on it as you would walk on a rug, you really do not need thick walls. Assembly as I mentioned will create walls twice as thick as your source material and lock the shape. If I were making honeycomb I would make a box frame for the project, apply a 20minute or more epoxy brushed thinly on the sides, then clamp the box frame to hold everything together. If this doesn't need to be honeycomb I would suggest just cutting pvc and connect round cells. Keep in mind a cylinder (or cell) is very strong when weight travels down the long sides. For example: a small can can easily support the weight of a person. For fun try this with some thin-walled plastic pipe. If you accurately cut a plastic straw square you could place a board on top to distribute weight and stand on it. E:vvv yes 60. Describe the project a bit of you want, I'm interested. EvilMayo fucked around with this message at 16:05 on Feb 22, 2015 |
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Feb 22, 2015 15:49
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The cells will be horizontal, not vertical, so not intrinsically strong in compression sadly. You mean 60' as well, I believe?
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Feb 22, 2015 15:59
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Gothmog1065 posted:Sorry, didn't specify (even though it is on the ceiling too), most of that is on the walls. The upstairs is a smallish room that has boards nailed up, and I put insulation on the outside of that. The ceiling has R13, which the retarded roofer bought because I didn't specify. It is sheathed however which may or may not inpact anything. It's not being changed any time soon as we don't have an actual access to that ceiling area (He put it in by cutting a hole in the slats when he was putting the metal down). Yeah, without answering my question (where are you, i.e. what are the average temps) nobody is going to be able to really help you. If you're somewhere that gets to or below freezing using 2x4 insulation (R13) in a ceiling is likely to be an overwhelming problem. Depending on exactly what your average temps are it could be a problem so large that fixing it could see an ROI inside of a few years.
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Feb 22, 2015 17:06
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Motronic posted:Yeah, without answering my question (where are you, i.e. what are the average temps) nobody is going to be able to really help you. If you're somewhere that gets to or below freezing using 2x4 insulation (R13) in a ceiling is likely to be an overwhelming problem. Depending on exactly what your average temps are it could be a problem so large that fixing it could see an ROI inside of a few years. North Carolina. We (like most of the northern US) have had a nasty cold snap, and it's reminded me how poorly this house is insulated. I'm going to have to go into the crawlspace at some point and pull down all of that insulation and put up new stuff there too, and put down vapor barrier so hopefully the new stuff won't get too heavy and fall out like the old insulation is. The problem with the ceiling (especially) in the second story is it is impossible (Okay, incredibly difficult) to get to. The other attic spaces surrounding it isn't that hard to get to, and I'm going to have to put down new insulation in there eventually as well. But the ceiling above here there is no actual access to. If it's going to be that bad I might have to cut an access so we can put down more insulation.
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Feb 22, 2015 19:22
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Gothmog1065 posted:North Carolina. We (like most of the northern US) have had a nasty cold snap, and it's reminded me how poorly this house is insulated. I'm going to have to go into the crawlspace at some point and pull down all of that insulation and put up new stuff there too, and put down vapor barrier so hopefully the new stuff won't get too heavy and fall out like the old insulation is. I don't know when this space was converted, but it's code in NC to have a minimum of R30 in a converted attic space. And it has been for quite some time. Gothmog1065 posted:The problem with the ceiling (especially) in the second story is it is impossible (Okay, incredibly difficult) to get to. The other attic spaces surrounding it isn't that hard to get to, and I'm going to have to put down new insulation in there eventually as well. But the ceiling above here there is no actual access to. If it's going to be that bad I might have to cut an access so we can put down more insulation. Sounds like a situation where I'd pull down the ceiling drywall or plaster, insulate properly, put up the vapor barrier that likely isn't there and re-rock. Of course, that's a guess since I don't know the layout. But insulation in the ceiling is quite important both in the cold and the heat.
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Feb 22, 2015 19:32
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Cakefool posted:The cells will be horizontal, not vertical, so not intrinsically strong in compression sadly. You mean 60' as well, I believe?
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Feb 22, 2015 20:04
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Motronic posted:I don't know when this space was converted, but it's code in NC to have a minimum of R30 in a converted attic space. And it has been for quite some time. Here, have a lovely mspaint picture of the 2nd story.  The roof is a hip roof with a few "wings" coming out for windows (one is in the attic space and wasn't converted). All sides (Including the top) are covered in R13 batt insulation (This to be precise) on the walls and in the ceiling, so it includes the vapor barrier. The roofers threw it down for me after they had torn off the old roof, they cut a hole and went in that way to lay it. I seriously doubt anyone who converted this gave 2 fucks about any codes when they did it. The ceiling is old beadboard (you know the poo poo drat near impossible to drive a nail through?) If I cut an access, I will probably end up just putting a piece of plywood over it and screwing it back up (as I don't ever plan on going back in there), and I"ll probably do it in one side that has a closet of sorts. The walls have the batt stapled to the walls with the paper side toward the inside. Would I be able to lay other insulation on top of it since it already has the vapor barrier on it? i'd really hate to have to pull all of that insulation back out, but I do want it done properly.
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Feb 22, 2015 21:09
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GWBBQ posted:Why hexagons instead of triangles? More useful storage space. Think bottle rack or something.
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Feb 22, 2015 21:28
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Gothmog1065 posted:The roof is a hip roof with a few "wings" coming out for windows (one is in the attic space and wasn't converted). All sides (Including the top) are covered in R13 batt insulation (This to be precise) on the walls and in the ceiling, so it includes the vapor barrier. The roofers threw it down for me after they had torn off the old roof, they cut a hole and went in that way to lay it. I seriously doubt anyone who converted this gave 2 fucks about any codes when they did it. The ceiling is old beadboard (you know the poo poo drat near impossible to drive a nail through?) If I cut an access, I will probably end up just putting a piece of plywood over it and screwing it back up (as I don't ever plan on going back in there), and I"ll probably do it in one side that has a closet of sorts. The walls have the batt stapled to the walls with the paper side toward the inside. Ohhhh....just cut an access between studs and throw some trim around it to make it look nice. If you frame it out with 2x4s and leave yourself a nailing edge you can make a cover for it and zip it up there with a few drywall screws. You want to have reasonably easy access to that when necessary. If you have a fire, if you see a leak in the ceiling, etc. As far as insulating it, sure, you can roll out batts but you can also just blow in a bunch of cellulose. If the space is big enough it makes sense to just get a truck out there to do the bottom of your currently inaccessible space as well as the bottoms of your accessible spaces. R15 on the walls of the built our room should be just fine, providing the horizontal spaces are insulated properly. This shouldn't be a big deal and will make a hell of a difference summer and winter.
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Feb 22, 2015 22:15
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slap me silly posted:Make a U-shaped loop in the wire and hook it around the screw, then tighten it down like gently caress. Don't actually try to wrap it all the way around. Orient the loop so that tightening the screw also tightens the loop, just like you'd do for an outlet: Either way, thanks for the help. Wiring has always been a bit daunting to me, but with your advice I should be able to manage from this point onward. 
melon cat fucked around with this message at 04:10 on Feb 23, 2015 |
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Feb 23, 2015 03:59
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So I have a low pitch sloped roof here in Southern California and it's nearing the end of it's life. I also suspect that I need a lot more insulation and better ventilation in my attic, to which I have very limited access. Would it be insane to want to insulate from the top down while the roof's being replaced? I have the feeling that rigid insulation under the sheathing won't be nearly as helpful as the same r-value over the rafters. Is that true? Right now I've only got vents in the gables, but I see modern construction uses soffit and ridge venting. I don't have moisture problems that would indicate inadequate venting, but it does get terribly hot up there in the summer. Am I likely to see any benefits from adding additional ventilation, or is insulation going to be the better bang for the buck?
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Feb 24, 2015 06:55
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Tricky Ed posted:So I have a low pitch sloped roof here in Southern California and it's nearing the end of it's life. I also suspect that I need a lot more insulation and better ventilation in my attic, to which I have very limited access. Would it be insane to want to insulate from the top down while the roof's being replaced? I have the feeling that rigid insulation under the sheathing won't be nearly as helpful as the same r-value over the rafters. Is that true? You do not want to insulate an unconditioned space. You will have problems. Also get a white roof.
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Feb 24, 2015 14:57
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EDIT: GOt a hold of the plasterer - all is good.
A LOVELY LAD fucked around with this message at 19:00 on Feb 25, 2015 |
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Feb 24, 2015 23:05
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So at work, we have this hot water tower that's terribly designed. The button you press for the water is directly above the spout, and steam floats up and under the cover and basically corrodes the button contacts all day long. We already lost one entire machine, and its replacement is having the same issues (makes noise when pressed, water cuts out often.) Guy responsible for taking care of parts is dragging his feet on ordering them, so I was wondering if I could just clean and coat the contact area with dielectric grease for now. I've only ever used that stuff in semipermanent immobile connections in automobiles, I don't know how well it'll work with an actual button if it's covering all the contact areas.
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Feb 25, 2015 02:56
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That is totally a situation where I would come in after hours and do whatever kind of loving around and just see if it helped
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Feb 25, 2015 02:59
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That's pretty much why I'm asking, my coworkers would cartwheel with joy if I could solve this problem, but it's like a $1.5k machine so I'd just like to make sure I'm not gonna gently caress it up even worse.
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Feb 25, 2015 03:07
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Is it a work-related machine, or, like, a coffee machine? We sent our $1500 coffee machine back to the factory for servicing after a few years, that worked out pretty well.
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Feb 25, 2015 03:12
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Work related machine FOR coffee, at a coffee bar. Can't send it off unfortunately (even if we could, the person responsible for that would take like 2 months to do it)
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Feb 25, 2015 03:33
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M42 posted:Work related machine FOR coffee, at a coffee bar. Can't send it off unfortunately (even if we could, the person responsible for that would take like 2 months to do it) Can you fashion a hood to divert the steam away from the button? It likely would be very small and out of the way.
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Feb 25, 2015 15:30
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I have a large circular mirror I'd like to hang over my fireplace. The mirror was designed to be hung by a french cleat, but there is some paneled woodwork above my fireplace I'd like to avoid drilling into. Anyone have any suggestions about hanging this thing up? Originally I thought about hanging it from the molding above the paneling, but that idea went out the window after I weighed the mirror and it came in at 40 lbs. Anyone have any suggestions?
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Feb 25, 2015 16:42
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Hoopaloops posted:I have a large circular mirror I'd like to hang over my fireplace. The mirror was designed to be hung by a french cleat, but there is some paneled woodwork above my fireplace I'd like to avoid drilling into. Anyone have any suggestions about hanging this thing up? Originally I thought about hanging it from the molding above the paneling, but that idea went out the window after I weighed the mirror and it came in at 40 lbs. Anyone have any suggestions? A picture of the space in question might help. Right now it sounds like you are asking how to mount a 40lb object on a wall without screwing anything into the wall.
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Feb 25, 2015 17:02
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Hoopaloops posted:I have a large circular mirror I'd like to hang over my fireplace. The mirror was designed to be hung by a french cleat, but there is some paneled woodwork above my fireplace I'd like to avoid drilling into. Anyone have any suggestions about hanging this thing up? Originally I thought about hanging it from the molding above the paneling, but that idea went out the window after I weighed the mirror and it came in at 40 lbs. Anyone have any suggestions? Am I missing something? 40 pounds isn't that much. You'll have to mount your mirror to something, preferably the wall behind it,. Still, you could most likely do 40 pounds from the molding if you wish. The tensile strength on steel picture wire is incredible.
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Feb 25, 2015 18:03
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