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It's coming along nicely, but isn't this essentially more work than rebasing them on the new bases?
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Feb 25, 2015 13:54
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Okay, so, this is the first mini I've painted in close to a decade, and I had a hiccupy start with it because I completely forgot I had to prime the loving thing, but I'm at the point with it where I'm not sure how much more detail I can add to it. I'm proud of some parts of it, but I also know it looks a bit chunky because I kept having to patch up spots on it. I also dunno if I'm thinning my paints right; I was basically dipping it in my water cup every few applications, shaking the excess off, and going from there. I was also holding the thing between my thumb and forefinger so paint on the head or backpack got rubbed off due to holding it for prolonged periods, which I could probably fix by actually basing the loving thing before I paint; you can see it most on the feet, since I already patched over the head and backpack. I'm also epileptic and have minor hand tremors, so paint unfortunately does get where it doesn't need to on certain areas. For that reason alone I'm proud as gently caress of the plasma gun, the aquila, and the power fist's skull and scrollwork, since I think I had the steadiest hand there. I did use the wrong red here; I used carmine red from Vallejo's line, when I probably should've used their natural leather one; I think that's red gore and khorne red in citadel colors. Mostly I'd like suggestions on how I could either make this model look better, or tips for the next one, especially for brush/paint control. I started with the basecoat, then gave it a black wash before coloring in other areas.     And here's a comparison to the first model I ever painted, which I took before I finished the plasma gun; I think, especially at the eyes, I made a big improvement.  
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Feb 25, 2015 15:30
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John Dyne posted:Okay, so, this is the first mini I've painted in close to a decade, and I had a hiccupy start with it because I completely forgot I had to prime the loving thing, but I'm at the point with it where I'm not sure how much more detail I can add to it. I'm proud of some parts of it, but I also know it looks a bit chunky because I kept having to patch up spots on it. I also dunno if I'm thinning my paints right; I was basically dipping it in my water cup every few applications, shaking the excess off, and going from there. For a first mini it's a solid job! Everyone starts with a ton of experience to gain and you can definitely improve with practice. Basing your model first, even temporarily with either tac or a small dab of glue, will go very far in helping you control your painting and avoid rubbing off areas. I'm not sure if it's the Vallejo paint or the camera but that red comes off as very shiny. You can both dull the shine and make details pop without much work at all by hitting the model with a wash afterward and then going back over the model with highlights. I cannot recommend the Citadel Shades enough, they seriously take 80% of the work out of highlighting and details. As an example, here's a Sternguard:  While parts of this model have been picked out for different colors, the main power armor segments were done with the following: Prime black Base dark green (I used 80% Warpstone Glow and 20% Abaddon Black) Go over main parts with brighter green (Warpstone Glow) Wash/Shade (Agrax Earthshade) Highlight bulky parts again with green The same method can be done with just about any color, though some colors notorious for requiring additional layers/pigment (yellow, white) will need more painting prior to washing. The gold portions of the Sternguard were even easier, just a layer of Gehenna's Gold, a wash, and then highlights. After that it would be good to go over the model and check for details that can be relatively easily fixed. For instance the black line on your models shoulderpad could be touched up.
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Feb 25, 2015 15:56
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Ensign Expendable posted:Holy poo poo, that's a lot of guys. Doesn't it get boring painting hundreds of identical soldiers? Its not that bad. Far better than painting an army at 28mm. Last time I did that it took 3 months to do something like 24 archers, 24 infantry, 12 horse and some command. Granted, I was using them to teach myself NMM and improve painting techniques in general but still. The goblin infantry were a bit much. There were 288 of them and it would get a bit boring by the middle, then I would take a break, and then seem to finish that step for the second half at a quicker pace. I have to do the dwarves, elves and humans next and there are as many of them total as there were in those goblin infantry so it should be much better with those groups. Overall, though, it goes so fast and your color pallet is so limited it isn't bad. None of the steps take too long. The wargs went fast and were a lot of fun. They are only 4 colors: 1. base coat 2. dry brush 3. brown details (muzzle and ears) 4. white details (eyes and teeth) The goblins, while more involved, were not too bad: 1. flesh base 2. cloth and shield red base 3. all metal parts 4. leather base 5. wood base 6. shield highlight 7. black shield details and hair 8. quick pass for any obvious bad mistakes (blotch of red on a face for example) I did try doing a couple individual goblins with a black wash after I did the above 8 steps but I ended up not liking it. I think if I did two tone skin it would look great with a wash in between but I really didn't want to add in that extra layer of work on almost 300 models, even if two of them combined are the size of the nail on my pinky finger.
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Feb 25, 2015 15:58
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PierreTheMime posted:For a first mini it's a solid job! Everyone starts with a ton of experience to gain and you can definitely improve with practice. quote:I'm not sure if it's the Vallejo paint or the camera but that red comes off as very shiny. I think it's the paint; it's very glossy in person, even when in the shade. I'll try the wash option and see how that comes out; I don't have access to the Citadel shades except by ordering them online. I purchased Vallejo Model Color paints at my local hobby shop, and had a chart from Dakka Dakka to show me which Vallejo paint is the counterpart to a Citadel paint ; no one, apparently, has an analogue to the Citadel washes and shades, so I had to make my wash by heavily mixing black paint with water. That Sternguard looks fantastic. But yeah, obvious spots like the shoulderpad I need to touch up. A goon in IRC pointed out I had a thin line of blue on the plasma gun's casing I hadn't noticed, so there's a few spots it really needs touching up on. e: I think it might also be the camera with the shininess of the paint, but those pictures also don't show the shading in the legs very well; it pops better in person, and it's more obvious there's black ink in the details. John Dyne fucked around with this message at 16:18 on Feb 25, 2015 |
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Feb 25, 2015 16:10
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It's always a nice treat to see actually well painted Warriors. I must have played so many WoC armies where the whole warrior block was like solid color armor, drybrushed brown fur over black primer, brown boots, boltgun sword, NEXT
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Feb 25, 2015 16:45
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I have also painted my first miniatures after 15+ years clean as the the Dungeon Saga kickstarter kicked my nostalgia buttons hard and I bought some Abyssal Dwarves for it already.   Considering that these photos were with a Should I be pushing my hightlights more (especially on the black)? The white beards on pale faces doesn't work does it, should I go black beards (or something else)?
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Feb 25, 2015 16:57
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PierreTheMime posted:It's coming along nicely, but isn't this essentially more work than rebasing them on the new bases? Probably, but I've been curious to see if its a fairly easy job or more trouble than its worth. If it doesn't work well or is too much of a pain then at least I've only spent like 2 Euros and can share the experience for any one else that was thinking about doing the same 
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Feb 25, 2015 21:42
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John Dyne posted:Mostly I'd like suggestions on how I could either make this model look better, or tips for the next one, especially for brush/paint control. I started with the basecoat, then gave it a black wash before coloring in other areas. Most importantly, make sure you're using a good brush! You don't want some frayed shitstick sabotaging your best efforts. Try using one that tends toward a sharp point, and make sure paint doesn't get into the ferrule, as that'll make it fray real quick. I'm epileptic too, and can get the occasional hand tremors - a trick I've found to mitigate it is to make sure that my hands are solidly connected to one another while painting, as the tremors tend to originate further down the arm than in the fingers. Try resting your hands on one another at the base of the palm, and also connect a couple of fingers that aren't used holding it - this should mean that it's down to your finger control rather than whole hand control. Use slow, purposeful brush strokes - don't rush yourself, plan where you're going to make a stroke before you make it. Definitely either stick it on a base before painting, or drill a hole into the foot, attach a piece of wire, and poke that wire into a wine cork - something that will give you something to hold on to without touching the miniature. Keep as little paint on your brush as possible, and try to do multiple thin coats. I'd recommend a dark brown wash in the recesses like Agrax; brown tends to go well with red as well as gold. Also spend a little time cleaning up the areas where the paint is a little blotchy, like the shoulderpad. Just take it slow and focus on getting the colors flat and clean. Anyway that's my bad advice, hope it's at least somewhat helpful.
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Feb 25, 2015 22:36
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Crosspost: I just finished this unit of Cetrati (including varnish) after 2 days of binge painting. Excuse the lovely no-effort cellphone pic, just snapped a quick one before applying the static grass. The good news is that I finished them just in time for tomorrow's game night.
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Feb 25, 2015 23:17
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Crossposting.   I am not very happy with how this generic Captain I had lying around came out. I am not sure really what I can do with him at this point, but he certainly lacks something the sternguard have, and I feel HQs should always outshine their troops.
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Feb 25, 2015 23:19
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The issue is hes a monopose starter box set model from 5 years ago against some of the best marine models GW have ever done. Theres not really much you can do to him at that point.
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Feb 25, 2015 23:21
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nesbit37 posted:Anyone here cast their own figures? I am getting tempted to sculpt up some 10mm dollies and sculpt some armies that don't really have good 10mm lord of the rings substitutes out there. I've made enough molds before but not cast with metal, and metal seems like best thing to make dollies out of. Any good lead/pewter suppliers, or for that matter anyone you know of that makes or sells 10mm dollies? I cast 6mm and 10mm in metal, but not anything I've sculpted. Well, vehicles excluded. I did commission Bob Naismith to sculpt some 10mm Egyptian Skeletons. I've got them at a caster right now to get masters done. I'd type more, but I fell on some ice last night and dislocated my elbow - now I'm in a cast/splint. loving sucks.  I'll get you more info later on when I can lift my right arm again.
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Feb 26, 2015 02:09
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really hard to get pics for this into a forum, but how glossy should matte varnish be when applied? I've been airbrushing matte varnish over top of a gloss coat, but it still seems like it has some shine to it. I haven't waited the 3 hours or whatever for it to set, but should this matter? Edit: Nevermind I figured it out. The varnish settled so I really had to shake it before applying it. w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 07:48 on Feb 26, 2015 |
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Feb 26, 2015 05:58
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berzerkmonkey posted:I cast 6mm and 10mm in metal, but not anything I've sculpted. Well, vehicles excluded. I did commission Bob Naismith to sculpt some 10mm Egyptian Skeletons. I've got them at a caster right now to get masters done. I'm very interested in this, and would like to hear more about it when you can type better. Like, do you have the entire spinning set-up and everything, or is it possible to do without it? How expensive is it to get masters done? What tools are necessary to get started?
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Feb 26, 2015 13:44
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It's a start! Nearly all of us start out painting at this level or thereabouts. Are you using enamel or oil based paint instead of acrylic? It looks shiny in a way it shouldn't, this could be caused by not mixing up old paint before applying it. Painting the black area on the backpack is one of those early brainfarts that seems appealing but truly isn't. I suggest trying to paint a black line on the shoulder pad to clean up the edge where yellow meets black (or using white to clean it up). Other than that, just paint. Do not repaint miniatures, don't, just keep painting and practicing. I hated painting so much I didn't even understand how to do it on a conceptual level, just hated it. Shake your paint bottles or mix them up with the handle of a brush before applying, thin them if necessary. I use my brushes to apply paint to the palette and to dip into a cup of water to thin my paint, too. You can even make paint thicker by spreading it across a palette and letting evaporation thicken it. This photo accidentally shows how I went from painting yellow and blue blobs to being able to paint, "Really old, bad model stands on top of cheese cake and has magic flame armor:" 
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Feb 26, 2015 15:15
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Used to be into the Warhams + Warmachine but quit quite a while ago because I sucked. Looking into getting back into painting again, preferably meeting as much of this criteria as possible (in order of importance)
I was looking at the Wood Elf Treeman / Treeman Ancient on GW's website but it's not quite the art style I want. The LOTR Ent + Treebeard are pretty solid though. Any suggestions where else I should be looking? Sab669 fucked around with this message at 16:05 on Feb 26, 2015 |
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Feb 26, 2015 15:28
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Reaper Bones. This might be up your alley, but I'm not sure if it's 4+ inches. The line for sure has some models that are that big or bigger, but I'm not sure if any of them are nature elementals--most are probably dragons, though whenever they open the models from the second kickstarter up for regular sale, that'll add some variety. You can page through the full range (again, current retail) here: http://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/Bones
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Feb 26, 2015 15:41
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lilljonas posted:I'm very interested in this, and would like to hear more about it when you can type better. Like, do you have the entire spinning set-up and everything, or is it possible to do without it? How expensive is it to get masters done? What tools are necessary to get started? If I remember correctly BM uses a casting company to do the actual labor (I could be mis-remembering).
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Feb 26, 2015 15:41
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JerryLee posted:Reaper Bones. This might be up your alley, but I'm not sure if it's 4+ inches. The line for sure has some models that are that big or bigger, but I'm not sure if any of them are nature elementals--most are probably dragons, though whenever they open the models from the second kickstarter up for regular sale, that'll add some variety. Awesome! Thank you. Might not be 100% what I want, but hey I won't be a stickler. Simply having that "tag" system on the website is great.
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Feb 26, 2015 15:50
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Sab669 posted:Awesome! Thank you. Might not be 100% what I want, but hey I won't be a stickler. Simply having that "tag" system on the website is great. I can check when I get home, but I think that specific one is about 3-4 inches tall. But reaper minis are good if you want to try out large minis because they are cheap, extremely durable and most require none or very little assembly. The material behaves differently than normal plastic, especially if you decide to spray prime it. However, it is also different in that most paints don't necessarily need a primer to work on it, instead you can get by decently with just an initial thick, undiluted, layer of paint or two.
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Feb 26, 2015 15:54
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lilljonas posted:However, it is also different in that most paints don't necessarily need a primer to work on it, instead you can get by decently with just an initial thick, undiluted, layer of paint or two. Except washes: in my experience, they definitely won't take a wash without a base coat.
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Feb 26, 2015 16:07
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I'm completely new here. I picked up a Dark Vengeance box last year but never dove in from sheer intimidation. I'm psyching myself to finally put to use all the paints, brushes, clippers, etc I bought to good use. Should I start with the bigger models in the box? Or is there something less complicated/detailed I should learning on? I've literally never painted anything ever before so 
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Feb 26, 2015 16:43
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Who Dat posted:I'm completely new here. I picked up a Dark Vengeance box last year but never dove in from sheer intimidation. I'm psyching myself to finally put to use all the paints, brushes, clippers, etc I bought to good use. Should I start with the bigger models in the box? Or is there something less complicated/detailed I should learning on? I've literally never painted anything ever before so I'd say start with the space marines in the box--the basic power armored dudes. They're simple enough to work with and don't have the bling like the rest of the models in the set. There is something to be said about the Chosen in the box set though, and how easy it can be to just drybrush detail onto them given all their baroque details. I'd try one of each as a test to see which feels more comfortable for you, and then go from there.
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Feb 26, 2015 17:01
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berzerkmonkey posted:I cast 6mm and 10mm in metal, but not anything I've sculpted. Well, vehicles excluded. I did commission Bob Naismith to sculpt some 10mm Egyptian Skeletons. I've got them at a caster right now to get masters done. Thanks, really appreciate anything you are able to share regarding this. I was planning on just doing some silicone molds and if its cost effective buying pewter ingots or something and melting them for small runs. The more info the better. Sorry about your elbow, hopefully it heals up well and quickly.
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Feb 26, 2015 17:38
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Who Dat posted:I'm completely new here. I picked up a Dark Vengeance box last year but never dove in from sheer intimidation. I'm psyching myself to finally put to use all the paints, brushes, clippers, etc I bought to good use. Should I start with the bigger models in the box? Or is there something less complicated/detailed I should learning on? I've literally never painted anything ever before so The cultists are majorly single pose models which are really easy to put together too.
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Feb 26, 2015 17:56
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JerryLee posted:Reaper Bones. This might be up your alley, but I'm not sure if it's 4+ inches. The line for sure has some models that are that big or bigger, but I'm not sure if any of them are nature elementals--most are probably dragons, though whenever they open the models from the second kickstarter up for regular sale, that'll add some variety. Thanks for pointing this out, this is neat. You can search specifically for a female dwarf holding a whip and wearing a hat. Finally. Are there any other places you would recommend with nice miniatures that aren't necessarily for a game? I'm more interested in the paint mans than the shoot mans.
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Feb 26, 2015 18:14
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Medium Style posted:Thanks for pointing this out, this is neat. You can search specifically for a female dwarf holding a whip and wearing a hat. Finally. Andrea Miniatures has some of the best things on the market.
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Feb 26, 2015 18:15
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Also, if you want to be REALLY picky about your little duder, there's always https://www.heroforge.com
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Feb 26, 2015 18:18
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If they weren't $25 a pop, I'd use HeroForge to make an entire Inquisitorial henchman unit.
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Feb 26, 2015 18:32
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Indolent Bastard posted:If I remember correctly BM uses a casting company to do the actual labor (I could be mis-remembering). I'm doing both now, so I can share from both sides of the process. The arm is feeling a bit better, so I'll try to get something together tomorrow, if I can.
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Feb 26, 2015 19:33
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Dark Sword Miniatures has some cool fantasy stuff too imo. Mostly pewter fyi. Thanks for the tips btw.
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Feb 26, 2015 20:29
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Crossposting for knowledge:Bad Munki posted:I was trying some new products for putting base coats on my bones and just fyi, one of these two products doesn't agree well with bonesium, going on 24 hours and still tacky, just a little tidbit for the communal knowledge bank here:
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Feb 26, 2015 20:37
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lilljonas posted:But reaper minis are good if you want to try out large minis because they are cheap, extremely durable and most require none or very little assembly. Note that this specifically refers to Reaper Bones--there are also a ton of metal minis in their catalog that, while also great minis, don't have the low price or all of the casual-user-friendliness of Bones plastic. Also, I notice that some of them are out of stock on the Reaper website at the moment, and it may remain that way for a little while since they've probably got all hands on deck dealing with the Kickstarter at the moment--but once you know the name of the mini you want, you can probably find it in stock at a different retailer somewhere on the Internet.
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Feb 26, 2015 21:11
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Medium Style posted:Are there any other places you would recommend with nice miniatures that aren't necessarily for a game? I'm more interested in the paint mans than the shoot mans. Aforementioned dark sword miniatures for 28mm scale. For larger scales and lots of money pegaso, scale 75, nocturna.
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Feb 26, 2015 21:19
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Medium Style posted:Thanks for pointing this out, this is neat. You can search specifically for a female dwarf holding a whip and wearing a hat. Finally. Enigma, Guild of Harmony, Freebooter. http://www.enigmaminiatures.com/en/news.html http://www.guildofharmony.com/shop_GOH_pg1.php http://www.freebooterminiatures.de/en/catalog/miniatures
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Feb 26, 2015 22:11
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Medium Style posted:Thanks for pointing this out, this is neat. You can search specifically for a female dwarf holding a whip and wearing a hat. Finally. For just painting I am a fan of Figone: http://www.figone.fr/
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Feb 26, 2015 22:25
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Thanks, I've never really looked at miniatures outside of GW and PP. Should I be surprised at how many of these places have their share of titty wizards and butt elves? I was kind of hoping that kind of thing all came from a less visible corner of the hobby.
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Feb 26, 2015 22:30
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Medium Style posted:Thanks, I've never really looked at miniatures outside of GW and PP. Reaper is as generic as fantasy minitures get, basically, so it is to be expected . Also I would not recommend bones for beginners. It is hard to remove mold lines, doesn't take primer or paint well and you get crappy bendy weapons. They are somewhere between toy army men and restic in terms of quality.
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Feb 26, 2015 22:34
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Big Willy Style posted:Reaper is as generic as fantasy minitures get, basically, so it is to be expected . The new figures from the second kickstarter are much stiffer, so there's that. And I'm not sure what you mean by "doesn't take primer or paint well," they take both just fine? And you don't even need to prime. Just don't use a primer that melts plastic. Alternately, don't prime, just base coat. To the contrary, I would recommend bones to beginners: they require less futzing to get to painting (i.e. 1) wash 'em off, 2) start painting) and if you screw something up horribly, they're a fraction of the cost of other minis, so who cares.
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Feb 26, 2015 22:39
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