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Karnegal posted:Wait $220 for art store acrylics? Or do you mean the Vallejo ones. If it's art store, You could get more Minitaire paint for that price (Badger's minitaire line is under $200 on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Company-Minitaire-Retarder/dp/B00AX5H86G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425055123&sr=8-1&keywords=minitaire) Oh. No. I'm sorry if I made it confusing. I tend to be too wordy. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BA...jteL&ref=plSrch
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Feb 27, 2015 18:18
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Commissar Canuck posted:Speaking of Badger's paint line, I am curious about their ghost tints and airbrush washes in general. Is there anything special you have to do when applying them? I liked their Oil Discharge when I was airbrushing a fleet of IG vehicles. Thinned just a little, it made a nice grungy look without a lot of trouble. Overall though, the washes tend to be very glossy and I wouldn't really want to use them outside of airbrushing. It is actually what prompted me to try mixing my own washes using the Les' Recipes.
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Feb 27, 2015 18:26
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Who Dat posted:I have a bunch of hobby store paints, basic colors that I planned on mixing for different hues. They weren't expensive. Just really cheap acrylic that I was going to start with. Is it okay to used cheap options for learning to apply paints, using brushes? Or should I invest in decent miniature paints like Vallejo. Lower Quality Medium: thicker, dries satiny (rather than flat), requires more mixing when thinning, faster drying (less workable time, lower shelf life). Lower Quality Pigment: less rich/brilliant/saturated colors, less pigment density (harder to get coverage with thin coats), slightly grainy washes, wet and dry color can shift slightly.
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Feb 27, 2015 18:33
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Who Dat posted:I know it's touched upon in the OP but since opinions differ, here and otherwise, I'll ask because I'm babby painter. I have a bunch of hobby store paints, basic colors that I planned on mixing for different hues. They weren't expensive. Just really cheap acrylic that I was going to start with. Is it okay to used cheap options for learning to apply paints, using brushes? Or should I invest in decent miniature paints like Vallejo. A set of 72 can be had for ~220. Not cheap, but the more I think of the prospect of mixing paints (I'm not super patient), the more I like the lots of quality paints option. I'd mostly just buy the colors you want/need starting out; at the Hobby Lobby here, I picked up the Vallejo Model Colors for between $1.99 to $2.99 USD each for the 17ml bottles, and ended up getting 12 bottles, a new set of brushes, and primer for ~40 - 50 bucks. I could never really see myself using some of the colors they have there but I was able to get the basics cheap.
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Feb 27, 2015 19:09
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Who Dat posted:I know it's touched upon in the OP but since opinions differ, here and otherwise, I'll ask because I'm babby painter. I have a bunch of hobby store paints, basic colors that I planned on mixing for different hues. They weren't expensive. Just really cheap acrylic that I was going to start with. Is it okay to used cheap options for learning to apply paints, using brushes? Or should I invest in decent miniature paints like Vallejo. A set of 72 can be had for ~220. Not cheap, but the more I think of the prospect of mixing paints (I'm not super patient), the more I like the lots of quality paints option. For ages, I painted minis with a combo of craft paints and GW paints/inks/washes, but nowadays I have migrated to Vallejo paints and inks/washes from various other companies (Army Painter, Secret Weapon, etc.), and the difference is astounding. Better coverage, smoother finish, and just plain easier to work with. I would say that craft paints are OK to start with if you're just learning and they will help you get some of the basics of the hobby down. If you have the money and can start with a more expensive brand, definitely go that route; but if you are just starting out, my recommendation would be to pick up some Delta Ceramcoat craft paints (as they do have a smoother finish compared to Apple Barrel or other craft paints; not as smooth as Vallejo, but better than the other craft brands) and also splurge and get some Army Painter inks. They have a set of 7 or 8 inks for (I think) around $25, and believe me when I tell you that a properly applied ink wash covers a multitude of painting sins. 
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Feb 27, 2015 19:18
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John Dyne posted:I'd mostly just buy the colors you want/need starting out; at the Hobby Lobby here, I picked up the Vallejo Model Colors for between $1.99 to $2.99 USD each for the 17ml bottles, and ended up getting 12 bottles, a new set of brushes, and primer for ~40 - 50 bucks. I could never really see myself using some of the colors they have there but I was able to get the basics cheap. Holy crap, your hobby lobby stocks vallejo? What dark magic did that require?
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Feb 27, 2015 19:41
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Bad Munki posted:Holy crap, your hobby lobby stocks vallejo? What dark magic did that require? The one near where I live has Vallejo too, though I think it's a very limited range, with only some "basic" colors that would be used for military models and such.
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Feb 27, 2015 19:44
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Thanks all for the guidance.  Sydney Bottocks posted:For ages, I painted minis with a combo of craft paints and GW paints/inks/washes, but nowadays I have migrated to Vallejo paints and inks/washes from various other companies (Army Painter, Secret Weapon, etc.), and the difference is astounding. Better coverage, smoother finish, and just plain easier to work with. I think I'll be doing this. I'll hold off on buying any huge sets. I'll check the local Hobby Lobby this weekend to see if they carry Vallejo paints, but until I'm confident I won't splurge. I bought something I think is Ceramcoat equivalent. Or it is Ceramcoat. I'll see when I get home. It was whatever the art store recommended highly for what I was doing along with some on sale Grumbacher brushes. At any rate, I grabbed those ink washes on Amazon for ~$18. I'm a long way off from the paint step so I'll just focus on putting plastic manbabbies together while I get an area set up for this poo poo because my house is a mess my wife hates my hobbies because they cost money and oh god I have a 2 year old who doesn't give me any time and maybe I should make a hobby thread in E/N and cry there.  Has anyone watched these tutorials by miniwargamerjay. Informative but holy poo poo the music. 
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Feb 27, 2015 20:24
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Who Dat posted:Thanks all for the guidance. Hobby Lobby should also have Ceramcoat paints, if you can't find an equivalent Vallejo color/want to start off on the cheaper side of things for now. The Army Painter inks you can find online (I think I got my set off of eBay for about $20 or so), and the nice thing about them is you can basically just glop 'em on without thinning, and they work pretty well (some other inks/washes are a bit more fiddly, but YMMV of course). quote:Has anyone watched these tutorials by miniwargamerjay. Informative but holy poo poo the music. I'll take this opportunity to pimp out Doctor Faust's Painting Clinic on YouTube, as I have learned a lot from watching his videos (and reading his website back in the day).
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Feb 27, 2015 20:38
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One thing I would suggest? Don't thin them with water. Thin them with a 50/50 mix of distilled water and some sort of medium. I personally use Plegde Future (or Multi-Surface, or whatever it's called now). This will keep a thinned paint from being too runny.
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Feb 27, 2015 20:50
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Sydney Bottocks posted:Just to touch briefly again on the Bones thing: I too am not a fan of them (though I love Reaper's metal minis a ton). Along with the previously mentioned issues (floppiness, having to reset droopy swords with boiling water, etc.), one thing I have found is that, unless you have a "solid" mini with a lot of thickness to it (such as a stout dwarf, for example), the figures have a bit of "bounce" to them when painting, which is annoying as hell. At first I thought it was just me, as I tend to cut off the "broccoli bases" that are attached to the Bones figures and pin them, and so I thought perhaps cutting the bases away from the Bones figures made them a bit less resilient or something; but then I tried it with an elven archer-type figure that I left attached to the base as an experiment, and had the same experience. Try bracing the mini with your other hand as you paint? I've always found gripping by the base to be too unstable for my liking so I usually cup my minis in my other hand.
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Feb 27, 2015 20:51
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Bad Munki posted:Holy crap, your hobby lobby stocks vallejo? What dark magic did that require? Sydney Bottocks posted:The one near where I live has Vallejo too, though I think it's a very limited range, with only some "basic" colors that would be used for military models and such. Yeah it's mostly got GERMAN CAMO GREEN and such but it's a pretty solid starter selection here; I got all the basics (black, white, grey), some fleshtones, and the colors I really wanted, except they didn't have the analogue to Citadel's Ultramarine Blue or Dark Angel Green. Still, got Wazdakka Red and Khorne Red and Red Gore so that works.
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Feb 27, 2015 21:09
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Well now you buttheads have my hopes up, I'm going to have to head in to town to have a closer look.
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Feb 27, 2015 21:12
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Bad Munki posted:Well now you buttheads have my hopes up, I'm going to have to head in to town to have a closer look. Don't forget your coupon.
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Feb 27, 2015 21:15
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Indolent Bastard posted:Don't forget your coupon. Yep, I never forget to bring up the weekly on my phone. 
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Feb 27, 2015 21:17
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Z the IVth posted:Try bracing the mini with your other hand as you paint? I've always found gripping by the base to be too unstable for my liking so I usually cup my minis in my other hand. I never hold the mini by the base, though. I always use some poster putty/Blu-Tack and attach them to an old medicine bottle cap or similar (I've also used hot glue at times to attach them to something to hold while I paint). I don't get the "bounce" I mentioned with any other type of material, such as metal or hard plastic. It's only the Bones figures. If they are a stout dwarf or a thick-muscled ogre or something like that, they're fine. If they're skinny like an elf or human lady, that's when I get the "bounce" motion I described.
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Feb 27, 2015 21:21
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Huh, would you look at that: my local hobby lobby does stock vallejo. Technically. Sorta. I mean there's a space for them. But at least they had all the metallics, which I was most in need of, so I stocked up on those.
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Feb 28, 2015 00:10
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Who Dat posted:I know it's touched upon in the OP but since opinions differ, here and otherwise, I'll ask because I'm babby painter. I have a bunch of hobby store paints, basic colors that I planned on mixing for different hues. They weren't expensive. Just really cheap acrylic that I was going to start with. Is it okay to used cheap options for learning to apply paints, using brushes? Or should I invest in decent miniature paints like Vallejo. A set of 72 can be had for ~220. Not cheap, but the more I think of the prospect of mixing paints (I'm not super patient), the more I like the lots of quality paints option. If you buy cheap paint go with Winsor and Newton Galleria. Delta (ceramcoat) is OK but their quality varies widely between different colors of paint.
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Feb 28, 2015 00:43
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Bad Munki posted:Huh, would you look at that: my local hobby lobby does stock vallejo. Technically. Sorta. I mean there's a space for them. I did a double take because that is the EXACT stock levels of the Hobby Lobby here and I fleetingly wondered if there was another paint goon in my town, but then saw you were in PA.
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Feb 28, 2015 01:15
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Shame it's Hobby Lobby. They're one of the few major retailers in existence where I'd rather buy from Games Workshop. If Michaels stocked it, I'd be all over that poo poo.
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Feb 28, 2015 01:25
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So two questions about vallejo: 1) How do their metallics handle airbrushing? 2) Should I consider airbrushing their matte varnish, or strictly brush on?
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Feb 28, 2015 02:31
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Bad Munki posted:1) How do their metallics handle airbrushing?
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Feb 28, 2015 02:35
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Pierzak posted:Normal ones, poorly. Vallejo has the Air range which has awesome, super-smooth metallics good for brush-on painting too, while their normal, non-Air metallics are lovely. I agree with this for the silvers but I find that with the golds, it's the other way around; the Air are way too lovely in their coverage while the regular ranges are good after a bit of thinning. Also, the Air range is straight up missing a bright yellowish gold or brass. This is all in regards to brushing on. Maybe Air Gold goes on fine through an airbrush, I don't know.
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Feb 28, 2015 02:55
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JerryLee posted:Shame it's Hobby Lobby. They're one of the few major retailers in existence where I'd rather buy from Games Workshop. I'm going to send Hobby Lobby pictures of titty demons painted with Vallejo paints. They'll drop it like birth control coverage. Did you know people use this for DUNGEONS AND DRAGONS?
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Feb 28, 2015 05:33
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Sorry for not replying to all the posts about my LED test the other week, things have too pretty busy. I'll try to maybe get around to it some time this weekend. That said: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SqdaavANsX0
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Feb 28, 2015 14:29
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thespaceinvader posted:Apparently they changed the active ingredient in Power Spray and it doesn't work any more D: Thank you! Brown dettol you say. To Asda!
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Feb 28, 2015 14:51
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Bistromatic posted:Sorry for not replying to all the posts about my LED test the other week, things have too pretty busy. I'll try to maybe get around to it some time this weekend. I'm going to have to see plans for that as well, sir.
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Feb 28, 2015 14:52
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Genghis Cohen posted:Thank you! Brown dettol you say. To Asda! Unfortunately it smells about a thousand percent worse that Fairy Power Spray. Wear gloves. (You probably should wear gloves for FPS as well but I don't because I live on the edge.) When FPS still worked it was the bollocks though - far better than Dettol.
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Feb 28, 2015 15:30
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Thread, I'm getting ready to do a ton of 28mm napoleonics. Gonna be priming black and was thinking of airbrushing the white on for the trousers/shirt things that the French guys are wearing. I've never airbrushed white over black before - is advisable to do a grey base first before the white?
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Feb 28, 2015 19:29
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BeigeJacket posted:Thread, Yes to the grey. Also why prime black? Why not prime grey?
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Feb 28, 2015 19:52
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eh, I just find black more forgiving. I just got done with a load of WW2 guys whom I primed grey and just getting the (non airbrushed) base coats on took forever, and even a little speck of grey showing through would set off the OCD in a way black doesn't. I'm going to have hundreds of Nap guys to plough through, so I'm looking for a quick n easy scheme to crank em out. I'll give the grey-then-white a go. Thanks!
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Feb 28, 2015 20:01
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What range are you using for the 28mm stuff? I havent found models I've liked for that period in that scale yet.
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Feb 28, 2015 20:28
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serious gaylord posted:What range are you using for the 28mm stuff? I havent found models I've liked for that period in that scale yet. Perry Brothers. I do plan on getting some of the Victrix highlanders (probably at Salute). Surprised that there's nothing that's taken your fancy, 28mm Napoleonics has been very blessed in the last couple of years with loads and loads of plastics. This poo poo is actually affordable now! What is it that puts you off?
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Feb 28, 2015 21:18
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So tomorrow I am going to start painting this guy and I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions on what colors they think would look good on the tabard/cloak. All my veterans and special characters at this point have been going with Zandri Dust sometimes with some Screaming Skull hightlights. I recently did a Captain with White Scar, and I didn't really like it. That being said I was wondering if anyone had any ideas that might really help distinguish Tigurius from his brothers.
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Feb 28, 2015 22:43
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BeigeJacket posted:Perry Brothers. I do plan on getting some of the Victrix highlanders (probably at Salute). Theres always something I dislike about the models. Either the poses, the faces or just the general lack of detail on them. I'm not looking at painting up hundreds of the things so its more about the individual models to me. The Perry stuff does look good mind.
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Feb 28, 2015 23:36
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Sydney Bottocks posted:I never hold the mini by the base, though. I always use some poster putty/Blu-Tack and attach them to an old medicine bottle cap or similar (I've also used hot glue at times to attach them to something to hold while I paint). I don't get the "bounce" I mentioned with any other type of material, such as metal or hard plastic. It's only the Bones figures. If they are a stout dwarf or a thick-muscled ogre or something like that, they're fine. If they're skinny like an elf or human lady, that's when I get the "bounce" motion I described. I think the bounce motion is due to the slim figures bending at the ankles. This is made worse if you hold the figure by its base or a handle attached to the base. If you held the figure directly it won't bend since your hand will be directly behind the area being painted steadying it. I understand your problem - I hold minis the way I do (contrary to all suggestions to attach them to a handle of some sort) precisely because I find that the mini tends to be unstable when I paint it while grabbing its base - in this case the instability is coming from my finger joints rather than the ankles, but the concept is identical.
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Mar 1, 2015 00:20
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The trouble with holding them in your fingers is that your fingers (everyone's fingers' have some oils on them which will transfer to the mini and make the paint not grab so well. Yeah, some bones do have the flimsiest ankles. Fortunately, they're easy and forgiving to drill, so I pinned some of mine right up to thigh level.
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Mar 1, 2015 10:28
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thespaceinvader posted:The trouble with holding them in your fingers is that your fingers (everyone's fingers' have some oils on them which will transfer to the mini and make the paint not grab so well. My solution for this, and I realize it's not for everyone because money, is nitrile gloves. They're also good for construction because cyanoacrylate does not adhere to nitrile.
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Mar 1, 2015 11:45
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thespaceinvader posted:The trouble with holding them in your fingers is that your fingers (everyone's fingers' have some oils on them which will transfer to the mini and make the paint not grab so well. http://www.amazon.com/Dynarex-Black-Gloves-Powder-Free-Medium/dp/B007KQECMO/ref=sr_1_2 I recommend having a box of gloves around no matter what, they should be a staple in every household. But for painting, they're extra great, because not only do they keep your disgusting bodily excretions off the minis, they also let you touch semi-dry parts a lot sooner because they create a vapor barrier as well, so your paint doesn't fog while it's still drying.
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Mar 1, 2015 15:39
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I bought a wide selection of the new citadel paints when they launched and promptly quit the hobby a little while later. They've been sitting in my closet with 90% of them unopened and still sealed for what must be coming up to a couple of years. I've just busted them out and the few I had opened before seem fairly unusable but a lot of the unopened ones have seperated or settled too, particularly the washes. Shaking alone doesn't seem to do the trick but I don't have time tonight to open them all up and give them a solid stir. Anyone got any experience with refreshing the new paint range? Am I boned?
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Mar 2, 2015 01:13
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