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If you want the radio to be on all the time (and not just when the key is in run/acc), you would connect the wire that would normally go to switched power, to constant power instead. You wouldn't need (or want) to touch an actual switched-power circuit in that case. With that said, I'd be more annoyed about having to push-and-hold the power button every time I get in or out of the car, than waiting for BT to sync.
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Mar 19, 2015 21:24
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Wire the red power wire and yellow wire to the constant 12 volt source. Having said that. This is a recipe for a dead battery and a pretty bad idea.
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Mar 19, 2015 21:27
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IOwnCalculus posted:If you want the radio to be on all the time (and not just when the key is in run/acc), you would connect the wire that would normally go to switched power, to constant power instead. You wouldn't need (or want) to touch an actual switched-power circuit in that case. Scrapez posted:Wire the red power wire and yellow wire to the constant 12 volt source. Yeah, you guys are probably right. I'll see if this new head unit connects the bluetooth any quicker, that may be plenty to satisfy my godly desires. e: maybe a way to wire it so that it doesn't shut off immediately? So if I stall the jeep the radio would stay on and give me enough time to start it again? It would also be cool to be able to go from running, to off, then to accessory without the radio power-cycling. Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 22:17 on Mar 19, 2015 |
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Mar 19, 2015 22:15
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Astonishing Wang posted:Yeah, you guys are probably right. I'll see if this new head unit connects the bluetooth any quicker, that may be plenty to satisfy my godly desires. The starter usually fucks with the radio, either by cutting off accessory or putting a nice drain on the battery. Either don't touch the key and try to roll start when you stall or wire in a big toggle switch (might still knock you off when you hit the starter.) How often do you expect to stall a Jeep though?
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Mar 19, 2015 23:25
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bobbilljim posted:The starter usually fucks with the radio, either by cutting off accessory or putting a nice drain on the battery. I've only been driving stick for ~15 years so I usually kill it at least once per off-road trip. I'll just install this radio like a regular dude and shut up about it 
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Mar 19, 2015 23:28
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A big fuckin' cap on the switched power line (I guess behind a diode or something so you don't end up trying to power everything on the switched 12V line) would probably give you a few seconds of radio runtime when you quickly start it or dip to accessory.
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Mar 19, 2015 23:49
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After three of the four speakers in my 2004 Subaru Outback died, I decided that it could use a little maintenance. I replaced the head unit about a year ago for something with an iPod hookup, so I'm decently familiar with the wiring and other elements, but after getting the new speakers in, I think that I could do with adding an amp. However, I'm a little overwhelmed with the various options and haven't gotten that adventurous, as everything I've done so far has been "replace existing thing with newer, less lovely thing", and I'd like a bit of advice. Current set-up is Polk DXi6501 in the front, and DXi 651 in the back, because I got them at a decent price thanks to a police auction of speakers siezed from a car audio business that was also a front for some sort of ridiculous drug operation, aided by the indication that Polk makes decent speakers. The sound is all right, but I'd like to add an amp to the whole system. What's a decent amp, hopefully around 150$ or less, that should give decent output, and are there any other issues that I'll need to consider when adding an amplifier/other tweaks I should make to the vehicle? I've got the front doors dampened, but still need to get to dealing with the rear doors. I'm mostly looking to get clear audio on everything, not ridiculous performance or anything like that, and I'm not really looking to add a sub or anything at this point yet.
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Mar 20, 2015 04:34
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I've got a question about configuring my Alpine MRV-F300 4-Channel Car Amplifier. I have two Infinity Reference 9633cf 6" x 9" 300W speakers connected to the first two channels, and two Infinity Reference 6032cf 6.5" 180W speakers connected to the second two channels. Everything sounds great, but was wondering if I should bother messing with any of the filter and crossover settings? This is all in an ice chest, so there's no subwoofer. The 6x9s are on the front of the cooler, the 6.5"s are on the sides of the cooler. I haven't touched any of the settings, so there's currently no filter and crossover for both sets is 80Hz. Should I lower the frequency for all speakers? One pair? Or just leave it as is? Most of the music is top 40 with a slight emphasis on dance and hip-hop. MrCodeDude fucked around with this message at 22:48 on Mar 23, 2015 |
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Mar 23, 2015 22:45
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Is there a really good place to buy a head unit online? Preferably in Canada?
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Mar 29, 2015 16:40
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Crutchfield has a Canadian arm if service, simplicity, and warranty win out over the absolute lowest price.
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Mar 29, 2015 18:00
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Crossposting my question from IYG:Fucknag posted:So I recently got upgraded from a Galaxy S3 to an S5. Everything's pretty great, except for Pandora. My head unit in my car has bluetooth with Pandora functionality. On the S3, it mostly worked fine, but it occasionally wouldn't link the controls when it auto-started Pandora in my car until I restarted the app.
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Mar 31, 2015 22:31
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Crossposting this from the general thread: The M5 came with a hideous radio head unit. The rest of the stereo install is decent and will likely stay but I need a head unit that matches the rest of the car. Are there any companies that make head units that look like mid/late 80's BMW style but would function with a newer audio install? Basically I don't want a big screen, a bunch of lights and graphics.
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Apr 4, 2015 15:55
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I haven't kept up with car audio for about 15 years so I'm not sure what is considered good anymore. I had a Pontiac Grand Am with Infinity 4x6 in the front and 6x9 in the back, and it sounded great. Wrecked it before I could get a head unit installed. Then I had a Chevy Silverado that had 4x6s in the front and on the rear pillars, I pulled out the rears and put in two Blaupunkt 6x9s in truck boxes, along with a Blaupunkt head unit and two JBL 8" subs in a bandpass box. The boxes got stolen, then I sold the truck. Now I have a 2010 Honda Civic coupe (no nav system) with the six speaker system - 2 tweeters in the dash, 6.5"s in the doors and rear deck. The radio is built into the whole front dash, what a pain in the rear end. Here's a before and after I pulled off of some Civic forums (NOT MY CAR):   Everything is stock, but eventually I'd like to have a nice head unit, new speakers, and maybe even a custom fit sub in the trunk. Total budget is $600 for a head unit and speakers. I can save up for the sub down the road. What brands are good? I have no idea about anything anymore. I really like that JL audio sub, how are their component speakers? JUST MAKING CHILI fucked around with this message at 19:49 on Apr 6, 2015 |
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Apr 4, 2015 18:57
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some texas redneck posted:I know I'm hilariously late on this, but that head unit has configurable colors. Green isn't a problem. It's discontinued, if you haven't snagged it yet. Noooope I'm an idiot and ended up buying a Kenwood I mostly hate. It sounds fine, controls are fine, Bluetooth is good. Display? 100% unusable in any form of daytime sunlight. I may call crutch field and see if they will swap me to a pioneer. Should of stuck with what I know. Sounds good though!!! I like you. Hilariously late.
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Apr 5, 2015 08:29
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For what it's worth, my Pioneer is generally usable unless the sun is beating directly on it (and even then you can still read the big stuff). The controls are kind of crappy though, thanks to Pioneer burying everything in menus, and the mic that came with it has crapped out.
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Apr 5, 2015 08:44
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some texas redneck posted:For what it's worth, my Pioneer is generally usable unless the sun is beating directly on it (and even then you can still read the big stuff). The controls are kind of crappy though, thanks to Pioneer burying everything in menus, and the mic that came with it has crapped out. Yeah I always end up back to pioneer. Every stupid little thing I hate from other companies, I end pioneer don't have issues with and generally I lack major complaints. One time I think my largest complaint was the wheel was a bit wobbly. It never broke, and I used the remote most the time. Never another complaint. You'd think I'd learn my lesson and stay pioneer.
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Apr 5, 2015 09:08
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I personally hate the UI on Pioneer's single DIN units.  I can't even figure out how to set presets on mine (it doesn't have the typical 1-6 buttons) without the manual, despite owning it for over 6 months.
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Apr 5, 2015 09:38
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Is this the best thread to discuss "CARPUTERS" ?  I bought an used Kia Pro_Ceed from 2007, it only has a CD reader: I've got too few CDs to use it. I've got 2 DINs at my disposal. I'm looking into making my own (it would be fun and it would cost less), but I'm open to commercial solutions. I'm trying to understand what's better, Android vs Raspbian vs Debian; if a Raspberry would be better than an Android-compatible solution, the cost of capacitive 7'' displays and so on. I was thinking about using a Minix X5 which seems a good compromise between cost and performance, has Android and has "almost native" support for HID touchscreens. GPS module and accessories included, I need to put it down on paper but it seems solid. I'd start buying cheap stuff to test it (especially, a resistive screen instead of a capacitive one - the Chalk-Elec one is the best candidate), I'd eventually go with higher quality stuff if it works. Suggestions? Char fucked around with this message at 16:50 on Apr 9, 2015 |
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Apr 9, 2015 13:20
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I'm looking to replace the single din headunit in a 2006 Honda Pilot with no Navigation. I just want an aux input and bluetooth streaming/phone calls. I was looking through Crutchfield and found a few things that looked interesting: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130X6700BS/Pioneer-DEH-X6700BS.html?tp=5684 http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500CDE143B/Alpine-CDE-143BT.html?tp=5684 http://www.crutchfield.com/p_158N5000BT/Sony-MEX-N5000BT.html?tp=5684 Is there anything wrong with any of those three? I am leaning towards the Pioneer one. I don't have steering wheel controls so that's one less thing to worry about. For any of those three, for the installation parts, is it okay if I go with the free one or should I get a slightly more expensive one? The only advantage the charts say is that the better wiring offers steering wheel controls but I don't need that.
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Apr 13, 2015 05:47
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Continuing the Bluetooth tangent, I recently picked up this Bluetooth receiver from Amazon. Works fine for A2DP but it's lacking HFP for voice calls. Does anyone know of a similar unit that has the HFP stack? The ones I'm finding with both almost all have to be manually turned on. TL;DR looking for a Bluetooth receiver that can do A2DP & HFP, can be buried under the dash and doesn't require a button to be pushed to activate.
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Apr 23, 2015 00:33
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I've now killed 3 old head units in my landrover and don't want to fit another (I think the water ingress kills them and I don't have any alternative mounting positions or the ability to stop a 50 year old agricultural vehicle leaking). I only really need a head unit to control the volume of an aux input going to an external amp (and possibly run a small pair of front speakers but i could cope without those). I don't want radio and not bothered by CD (as they skip anyway in a landrover when you hit bumps) I use my phone to play music and I have a separate amp running speakers and a sub (fitted in the back where it is dry!) I have put the amp remote sense on a switch for now, and can play music from my phone by putting it directly into the input on the amp - but I have to be really careful about the volume level and keep my phone down very low - I want a nice easy to use volume knob! Are there any simple and cheap options?
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Apr 27, 2015 10:46
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Maybe one of those head units for boats? Are landies even DIN?
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Apr 27, 2015 10:49
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Raluek posted:Maybe one of those head units for boats? Are landies even DIN? haha. DIN!  It currently hangs under the dash in one of those 90's plastic hangers and car headunits are deeper than the available space so it pokes out through the bulkhead into the engine bay inside a sealed metal section I made. I seem to get loads of water ingress through the bulkhead and roof (the screen needs resealing and I have a nasty feeling there is a big rust hole hidden under the screen that lets water through.). I don't have any covered parking at the moment.
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Apr 27, 2015 11:31
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What about something like this: http://www.amazon.com/A/dp/B000OSZA58
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Apr 27, 2015 12:18
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Tomarse posted:haha. DIN! A lot of the new mechless head units are half the depth as conventional ones ie http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_74585_Pioneer-MVH-X560BT.html I don't know if that'll help you with your current mounting location. If water is coming from inside the cabin you could use that marine style mount or a front cover: http://m.ebay.com/itm/280761735874?_mwBanner=1 Marine decks have sealed fronts so the face plate area is water resistant. You could also mount a Sony head unit in the back and use their app to control it with your phone (which is what I plan to do with my Mini.) App Remote for control your smartphone with Sony'…: https://youtu.be/kaRtDMauLQM
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Apr 27, 2015 21:11
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I just recently purchased a 2015 Forester and it's my first car with a USB slot for media files. I loaded a Sandisk Cruzer 8gb flash drive (similar to what is linked) with no other data (FAT32 formatted) other than a few mp3s and stuck it in. The thing glows orange for a minute, the head unit displays "reading drive", then the glow on the USB stick stops and the head unit displays "check drive". The drive does work on my computer and PS4 - I'm able to add, remove and play media - so I have to think it's something with the head unit not reading the mp3s correctly. I haven't tried any other flash drives yet but I'm hoping it's just the drive and not the head unit. I was hoping it'd be a pretty seamless plug-and-play situation. 
ex post facho fucked around with this message at 23:11 on Apr 27, 2015 |
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Apr 27, 2015 23:09
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:A lot of the new mechless head units are half the depth as conventional ones ie Cheers. Some nice ideas! Haven't looked at new head units - didn't realise you could get mech less ones now. Will get some measurements for some and see how much they cost. A smaller head unit would give me a lot of better mounting options if it were the right size. The current location is poo poo not only because of the water but because it is impossible to see and hard to reach. Got loads of other empty dash I could use instead! Water seems to be coming in and running through the back of the dash and then dripping out of the bottom onto the current position and hitting the top of the unit so a front cover won't help. Likely wouldn't be able to flip it down either without hitting stuff. I quite like having a physical volume control. I use spotify on an iphone as the music library (and can control through the spotify app)
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Apr 27, 2015 23:56
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a shameful boehner posted:I just recently purchased a 2015 Forester and it's my first car with a USB slot for media files. Have you tried another flash drive? I have a 2014 Outback and all I had to do was plug in my flash drive to play files. If it happens with another flash drive, I'd take it back to the dealership.
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Apr 28, 2015 00:24
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Anyone have any experience with the Pioneer AVH-4100NEX yet? Specifically Android Auto. I got my phone up to Android 5.0 yesterday and stopped by a local car audio place to check it out. None of them could get it to work with any android phone present. (All running Lollipop) My other question with it is what happens if I throw a 128GB flash drive on the second USB slot with all my music on it. Can you actually navigate it worth a drat? It'd be cool to have a super massive shuffle folder, but I have a feeling I'm just going to have to take a drive in to a store to see how that actually works out... Google seems less than helpful in promoting the thing, I wanted to see what apps work with it, and they direct me to a nonexistent "Android Auto" category of the play store. I guess since there are only three head units total that run it they aren't all that hyped to talk about it yet.
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Apr 28, 2015 05:33
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mariooncrack posted:Have you tried another flash drive? I have a 2014 Outback and all I had to do was plug in my flash drive to play files. If it happens with another flash drive, I'd take it back to the dealership. Thanks, I'll give that a try and see what happens.
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Apr 28, 2015 05:52
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a shameful boehner posted:Thanks, I'll give that a try and see what happens. Also check whether you need to slap files on it just under USB: or whether the HU has a weird limit on the amount of folders it can dig through.
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Apr 28, 2015 15:03
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Does anyone make a radio with a built in weather band anymore? I'd like to replace the factory one in my outback but I really like having the weather band. The only ones I seem to be able to find are radios for boats.
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May 2, 2015 12:20
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Looks like Jensen makes a few, they're meant for big trucks and heavy machinery by the looks of it, but they look like standard single DIN. No CD player. The only other option I find is a Dual marine rated unit; it'll work fine in a car, but it'll look way off (being solid white and all). And again, no CD player. Marine rated receivers will work fine in your car, they just look funky because of the different colors, and often lack a CD player. You could always get TuneIn Radio if you have a smart phone, they generally have a regional NOAA station in their listings.
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May 3, 2015 04:48
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My stereo has been acting odd lately. Occasionally, shortly after starting the car I'd hear a thumping noise, for about 30 seconds. I thought it was my ricer exhaust doing things, but turns out it's my subwoofer; the cone retracts slowly, then kicks down all at once, about 4-5 cycles per second. It's an 03 Mazdaspeed Protege, system is a KDC-X896 head unit running to a (factory equipment) KAC-5295 amp, went from an 8-ohm factory sub to a 4-ohm (JLA 8w1v2-4). No issues with the other speakers, amp only runs the sub. Anyone had issues like this? It's from 2002-2003, could this be a capacitor inside the amp going bad?
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May 3, 2015 23:39
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Ok so I'm looking for opinions. I have a 1st gen dsm, these cars have factory 6 speaker stereos. The four front speakers are wired in parallel for each channel and use 8ohm speakers. They reside in the bottom front of the doors which are some weird quasi 6 1/2 slash 6(?) though 6 1/2 fit fine with new holes even depth wise. And the dash are 4T's near the windshield. Rear's are super shallow 6x9's. All the speakers are old enough that the suspension foam is completely dry rotted and falling off so its time for new speakers. The car is more of a track toy and sound quality isn't much of a concern. So my question is am I better off going with 4 front speakers again or a component setup up front? Component would be 6 1/2 in the doors and tweeters in the dash in the old 4T position. If I went with 6 speakers again the fronts would have to be wired in series/parallel like this just to get a normal 4ohm load....http://www.bcae1.com/spkrmlti.htm (scroll down.) Since 4T's aren't really made anymore shallow 3 1/2's would be needed. There'll be no extra amps powering anything just a decent aftermarket deck I already have. I'm not too worried about killing the deck either way. Even with a proper 4 ohm load per channel I'm sure it'll need lots of front bias on the deck to even it out. Am I just fighting a useless fight to get 6 speakers back in the car or will components sound fine even with the distance from dash to doors? P.S. rears will just be the shallowest 6x9 I can find. P.P.S. Just did some more research and apparantly series/parallel wiring isn't an option with two speakers per channel it must be 4 speakers at least. So my options are either components or a two and a four ohm speaker since I can't find two ohm 3.5's In series this should give me a safe 6ohm load. Guy Random fucked around with this message at 05:04 on May 6, 2015 |
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May 5, 2015 04:33
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Looking for an upgrade suggestion/ideas on improvement. I just bought a 2015 Toyota RAV4 fully loaded about 2 weeks ago. It came with the JBL GreenEdge "premium" speakers. All-in-all it's not terrible but the vocals are way too pronounced and the sub is lacking. The system comes with a 560w amp built in but it really doesn't get that loud. Is there something I can do to raise the sound quality? I came from a BMW Z4 and the system in it was just amazing as a stock system. Would keeping the existing 7" sub and adding another to the system be a possibility? I would prefer something that doesn't require me to add a new amp. To keep the wife happy, by not loading down the trunk with 10" subs, has anyone had any experience with this all-in-one? http://www.crutchfield.com/S-YbGsrKRhjxr/p_113KSCSW11/Kenwood-KSC-SW11.html
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May 5, 2015 23:02
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Guy Random posted:So my question is am I better off going with 4 front speakers again or a component setup up front? Component would be 6 1/2 in the doors and tweeters in the dash in the old 4T position. If I went with 6 speakers again the fronts would have to be wired in series/parallel like this just to get a normal 4ohm load....http://www.bcae1.com/spkrmlti.htm (scroll down.) Since 4T's aren't really made anymore shallow 3 1/2's would be needed. There'll be no extra amps powering anything just a decent aftermarket deck I already have. I'm not too worried about killing the deck either way. Even with a proper 4 ohm load per channel I'm sure it'll need lots of front bias on the deck to even it out. Am I just fighting a useless fight to get 6 speakers back in the car or will components sound fine even with the distance from dash to doors? Go with components. There will be no issue with the tweeters being that far from the mids, and you'll be running a 4 ohm load that way as well.
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May 6, 2015 07:04
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some texas redneck posted:There will be no issue with the tweeters being that far from the mids ...outside of the fact that any frequencies above 100hz are locatable and should thusly be emanating from a speaker that has direct line of sight in terms of radiation pattern to your earholes for best possible sound. ...but then this is the audio nerd in me talking so ignoring that, you're correct.
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May 6, 2015 11:08
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I have a 2010 Civic coupe I want to put new speakers and a head unit in. Eventually maybe a subwoofer also. It has six speakers total - four 6.5" in the door and rear deck and tweeters in the dash. Should I run new wiring from the head unit to the speakers, or are the factory wires fine? If I put in component speakers, do I need to have an amplifier also? If no to the amplifier, do I need to do anything special to connect both the dash tweeters and door speakers, I assume that most head units are 4 channels plus a sub output.
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May 7, 2015 04:10
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I'm totally torn between a pioneer 4100nex for ~550 or an eBay android stereo for 3something. I am stoked by the idea of getting to install anything/everything I want on an android stereo, but I'm afraid it will be dodgy as gently caress. The pioneer looks serviceable, but I really dislike being locked into pioneer's is choices... Do many people have experience with these eBay units?
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May 10, 2015 18:05
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