|
Hey, can anyone reccomend me something to spray on the panels i'm going to be cutting out and patching? I dont want rust coming back, like, ever. right now, as i understand it, epoxy primer is my best bet for fresh metal, POR-15 is awesome for any metal with surface rust but not fresh steel, and zinc spray is only for welding through. so far, my plan is to work at the car a panel at a time, so i want to spray/treat the finished areas with something that will last as long as possible. cavities will be getting a thick coat of rust converter and wax, I think, unless someone can recommend something better! thanks goons!
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2015 20:03
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 26, 2024 23:11 |
|
|
2000 Honda Accord LX, 2.3L engine. Clutch slave cylinder needs to be replaced, I have two questions. What rear end in a top hat designed this? After I put the new one in, I need to disconnect that engine mount to get to the bleed screw, don't I? GWBBQ fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Apr 3, 2015 |
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2015 21:23
|
|
|
Nah. You can just undo the two mounting bolts and bleed it that way - the SC doesn't need to be operating the clutch or under pressure for you to be able to push the air out using the clutch pedal.
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2015 22:03
|
|
|
It's still better than the concentric slave / "hydraulic throwout bearing" a lot of cars use, where a slave failure means removing the loving transmission.
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2015 22:24
|
|
|
Tommychu posted:As a former Ford Bricknose owner (and I'm sill a major fan of them), I'll say that any solution to a problem like this that requires you to spend more than $10 is the wrong one. I'm thinking find a way to strap them down or use velcro. Yeah I think you got the right idea. So does anyone have any ideas to strap down 2 speaker boxes in a carpeted corner behind a bench seat? Do I just need to get some corner brackets and screw them down? Speaking of screws, some of the holes for my trim panel screws are stripped out. If these were holes in wood, I'd just stick in a couple toothpicks. What fixes are there for stripped out holes in sheet metal, short of getting bigger screws? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 00:24 on Apr 4, 2015 |
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2015 00:21
|
|
|
GWBBQ posted:2000 Honda Accord LX, 2.3L engine. Clutch slave cylinder needs to be replaced, I have two questions. If you think that's bad, get the cmc out of an 8th gen civic. It's literally not visible from the engine bay without sticking your head in the area that the airbox once resided in. Completely tucked behind the shock tower area. I just got mine out, took 2 hours of pretty intense swearing.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2015 00:55
|
|
|
Sentient Data posted:Have you cleaned out the EGR recently? It seems like they can have their own codes for direct failure, but they get clogged up with crap and seem to be the underlying cause of quite a few issues that a lot of people overlook, and other people with P0441 seem to say that a dirty EGR can be a cause No EGR on the 5VZ-FE that I can find in my manuals or anything. Ugh. I'll just have to hit the junkyard tomorrow and try to pick up a used valve so I don't have to spend 120$ on a new one.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2015 01:14
|
|
|
I received my oil report on the International, with the 345ci V8. The lead and iron were high in this, and they suggested possible bearing wear. I'm not sure if there is a problem or if there was a problem. I'm not familiar with that failure, and thought that was mostly due to running without oil. I changed the oil last about a year ago, I've been driving it weekly, but mostly short trips. I noticed a month ago the oil was low, at the base of the dipstick. I ran Delo 15w-40 that whole time, in Colorado. And of course it's got a carburetor tuned by an amateur, but the idle speed is good and timing is by the book. Do any of those things alone or in concert lead to bearing wear? I figure if there's an operator error I should figure that out before the next sample to isolate it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2015 02:11
|
|
|
My father-in-law died a few weeks ago and I have his 2000 Lexus RX 300 sitting in my garage airing out from all the cigarettes he smoked in it. We're going to try and sell it and I'm trying to decide how much work to put into it before we do. It has about 134,000 miles on it, before I drove it back home I had to put 3 quarts of oil in it since it was very low. He was not much for keeping up with maintenance. Here's all the CEL codes that were pulled out of it: P0171 - system too lean (MAF sensor?) P0325 - knock sensor P0330 - knock sensor P0305 - cylinder 5 misfire It drove mostly fine, in the 3 hour drive from east Texas back to Dallas there were two instances of power loss that went away quickly. First time I was at a stop, then went to accelerate and had very little power, second time I was driving at a constant speed and the motor cut out then revved back up. This car may be worth only $2000-3000 in good shape, so I don't want to put more than $1000 in repairs into it. Is that doable?
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2015 03:12
|
|
|
System too lean is either a vacuum leak, a leak in the intake tube behind the MAF, or a fuel system issue. Since it cut out on you a couple of times, I'd be leaning more toward a bad fuel pump or clogged fuel filter. The knock sensors are a bitch to get to (need to remove the intake manifold), but it's rare for both of them to go bad at the same time. Check the wiring harness for rodent damage - that's what it wound up being on our Avalon (which has the same engine). The misfire is likely related to running lean, though it's possible he never changed the spark plugs (they're good for 100k). I'd check for any loose/cracked stuff between the air filter housing and throttle body, and toss a new set of spark plugs at it (the rear ones will require removing the upper half of the intake manifold). If he was as bad about maintenance as you say, it's also way overdue for a timing belt/water pump as well, though that's a $600+ job on that engine unless you do it yourself (if you just want to sell it, disclose that it will need the timing belt done, and price it accordingly). And it's worth a bit more than you think. KBB says it's worth $4k in "fair" condition with a Dallas zip code, for a private party sale. Clean it up and that jumps up to $5k.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2015 03:30
|
|
|
Thanks, that's not as bad as I thought it would be. I'd say it's nowhere near "fair", there's cigarette burns everywhere in the carpet and massive damage to the leather seats.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2015 03:41
|
|
|
The Mandingo posted:Thanks, that's not as bad as I thought it would be. I'd say it's nowhere near "fair", there's cigarette burns everywhere in the carpet and massive damage to the leather seats. That's prefect, showroom condition, mint, immaculate, etc in Craigslist lingo.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2015 03:55
|
|
|
In that case, it's probably $3k-3500 if the a/c works. There's plenty of them in junkyards though, you could always snag a new set of seats. Looks like Pick n Pull even has one at the south Dallas yard, and they don't usually go for the nicer stuff (though it's been there for over 2 months now, so it's probably picked pretty clean). Kinda surprised how poorly they've aged (in terms of value), to be honest, but take a look here to get an idea of what people are asking for them locally.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2015 04:07
|
|
|
I got "system too lean" when my cats were barely connected at the manifold.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2015 16:42
|
|
|
Is corrosion on the battery leades a sign of a problem?
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2015 13:34
|
|
|
davecrazy posted:Is corrosion on the battery leades a sign of a problem? Yeah. At a minimum it means your connection is going to poo poo and the terminals and cables are being eaten. Neutralize the acid with some battery terminal cleaner or baking soda/water, remove them, clean them, neutralize again and reconnect them. Make sure they are tight and use dielectric grease to keep it from coming back as soon. If it comes back quickly it can be an indication of poor connections, overcharging or a spanked battery. If it's not a sealed battery check that it's full and top it up as necessary. It also happens faster if the plating has been eaten off the terminals.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2015 15:28
|
|
|
Went from this: To this:  I don't think I broke anything and the car started up ok after I reconnected it. davecrazy fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Apr 5, 2015 |
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2015 17:11
|
|
|
If I want to replace all the bushings in my suspension do I have to buy all new parts? Like right here rockauto has control arms with new bushings, but I can't find a listing for the bushings alone. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1420490&parttype=10401 Pretty much all of the rubber bits in the suspension have some cracks in them and I'd like to replace it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2015 19:57
|
|
|
SperginMcBadposter posted:If I want to replace all the bushings in my suspension do I have to buy all new parts? Like right here rockauto has control arms with new bushings, but I can't find a listing for the bushings alone. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1420490&parttype=10401
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2015 20:01
|
|
|
Crossposting my questions from a different thread: Has anyone tuned a cruze? the 1.4l turbo? I saw a chip that upped it to 170hp. http://www.vtunerperformance.com/?p=54 I came from a manual turbo foreester so this isn't really going to cut it at stock. Also, are varex exhausts available here in Canada?
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2015 00:27
|
|
|
I have a newer FWD car that I must have hit a pothole with since I now have a cute little bubble on the sidewall. The car has about 7k miles on it, so the tires are pretty new. Can I replace just that one tire as long as it's the same exact brand/model? Or am I going to have to replace both on the axle? I'm thinking with only 7k on it I should be able to just do one, no? Can't wait to spend $300 on one tire or $600 if I have to do both...stupid awkward tire size.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2015 03:30
|
|
|
Well it depends on whether your blue car has an LSD on the front axle, if the damage is on that axle. (Don't be cagey about what your car is, we can help you better if we know what you drive!) Aside from that, what matters more than mileage is remaining tread depth on the other tire; some sport tires would be nearly done at 7k, while hard economy tires might just be breaking in. Generally I'd say if there's more than 2/32"-3/32" difference between the current tires and a new set of the same type I'd get two for sanity's sake.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2015 03:39
|
|
|
Didn't mean to be dodgy...just didn't think it mattered, hah. It's a Ford Fusion Titanium (2.0l turbo). It has 235 40 19 V rated Conti Pro Contacts on it from the factory which are theoretically 40k mile tires. I'm going to have it checked out, I just wanted ammo in case they try to tell me I need both if I only need one. I'd like to avoid spending $600 if I can get away with $300.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2015 03:48
|
|
|
If both need replacing you could buy yourself some time by cycling the rear wheels to the front and only replace the damaged tire. Since there isn't anything tying the rear wheels together it isn't a big deal if one is substantially more worn than the other.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2015 03:57
|
|
|
I'm trying to replace the drivers side front cv joint on a 2006 dodge magnum 5.7 awd. For the life of me I can not get the inner joint out of the transmission. I've gotten it to move maybe an inch but it will not go any further. I've tried prying it out and beating on it with a hammer with no success. I'm worried I am damaging the transmission like this. Does anyone have any tricks?
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2015 18:36
|
|
|
I am missing the small plastic "set" button for the cruise control of a 2002 Buick Century. Is there a website that sells misc small parts like this so I can avoid buying the whole control stick for 75-125 bucks? Or is there some sort of work-around I could do to avoid buying a new part all together?
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2015 20:44
|
|
|
You're pretty much stuck buying the entire stalk. And uh.. I just priced the stalk. If you can find one for $75, buy it. They're $200+ on Rockauto, aside from one brand I've never heard of that's $113.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2015 20:53
|
|
|
Hit up a junkyard?
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2015 20:55
|
|
|
I'll do the junkyard route - good tip. I have a cousin with a 3d printer who says if he had a model file of the stalk or even the button he could fashion the button with his machine. I don't suppose there is a database I could easily access that might have what we seek? edit: I would also like to note my brother has the exact same car as I do - with a working button. Is it possible to safely remove the button for my cousin to scan for 3d printing? Thunder Moose fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Apr 6, 2015 |
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2015 21:16
|
|
|
If it just needs something to press a button that still exists rather than also needing conductive contacts, then maybe there's some firm, dry clay/wax you could use to get the right dimensions/shape if you want to mcgyver something. From there the guy with the 3d printer can take some measurements and try to replicate it in whatever CAD program, then give it a few trial/error runs with the printer (or even just slightly large then sand it to size)
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2015 21:36
|
|
|
Ugh, sorry for the incoming long post, but I didn't want to make a new thread just for this and I could really use some diagnostic help with an ancient 4th gen Maxima that's got some serious issues. This is a family member's car that's been neglected and beat to hell, and I'm trying to help her (cheaply) get it back into more-or-less driveable condition. Odds are it'll be gone within a year, but for now it's being daily driven and that's... not great in its current state. When I got my hands on the car it had no power, was leaking insane amounts of oil, hesitating, and stalling almost any time it came to a stop. It was throwing knock sensor and camshaft position sensor codes. So far, this is what I've done/diagnosed: 1) Checked and replaced the CPS first. The o-ring on this was bad too and it was dumping oil out from around the sensor hole. 2) Replaced the valve cover gaskets, intake manifold gasket, spark plug tube gaskets, and valve cover grommets. This VCGs were the other obvious oil leak. It's probably still leaking oil from somewhere, but it's not losing a noticeable amount anymore. She was losing something like a quart per week before replacing the CPS and VCGs. Blame this car for our dying planet. 3) Did a bunch of maintenance crap: spark plugs, fuel filter, pcv valve, some clearly hosed hoses, air filter. Fuel pressure was very low after the fuel filter; turns out it was the original 19 year old one. Anyway, the car ran much, much better after all of this. I'm pretty sure the fuel filter was the biggest culprit here, but I'm an idiot so maybe not. Spark plugs didn't look too bad for not having been changed in a decade. 4) The belts are all kinds of hosed, probably because the busted CPS o-ring was pissing oil all over them. Getting around to this next. 5) Haven't done the knock sensor yet because it's a pain to get to and I don't think (but maybe I'm wrong?) that it would cause stalling or stumbling. I'm going to pull it out and check it anyway, but I don't want to do that until I have a replacement ready to go. 6) There's an exhaust leak somewhere around the flex pipe that I'm having her take it to a shop for, because I'm not dealing with any of that exhaust poo poo. So, right now, the car is only throwing a knock sensor circuit malfunction (P0325) code. Performance is vastly improved and it's not constantly stalling, but it's still not doing too well. The biggest problem is that it'll stumble a bit under light throttle, either when accelerating from a stop or when already at speed. The RPMs dip and there's a clear loss of power. It'll stall if you leave it, but punching the gas corrects the problem. It won't do it under moderate or heavy throttle, at least as far as I've been able to reproduce. I haven't been able to get it to stall at idle, but I'm told it's still doing it very rarely. Idle seems kind of high (around 1000rpm) in park, but is pretty rock solid at ~700rpm in drive. I haven't driven an automatic regularly in a long time so I honestly don't know how normal that is. It's still down on power too, but I'm thinking maybe the knock sensor is to blame there? That's not a huge issue, anyway. Aside from the belts and knock sensor, I'm open to any suggestions for what to check next. My lovely little bluetooth OBDII scanner died on me and I'm waiting for my new one to get here, so I haven't been able to check fuel trims or (easily) make sure that the throttle position sensor is behaving properly. Other than, I'm not too sure where to go next and I'm not too keen on just blindly throwing parts at it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2015 22:47
|
|
|
Dear motorheads, I need some more old car porn and don't know where to look. Here's my interest: what are some historical cars similar to the Rolls-Royce Silver Ghost? I loving love its insane look with like 20 headlights and a long hood. It's like something Cruella Deville or Red Skull would drive. What other models should I look for? Look at this sexy ride. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2015 23:16
|
|
This poster loves police brutality, but only when its against minorities!
|
DeusExMachinima posted:Dear motorheads,
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2015 23:33
|
|
|
e: gently caress YOU DAVE!!! GIS duesenberg, go hog wild.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2015 23:36
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Nah. You can just undo the two mounting bolts and bleed it that way - the SC doesn't need to be operating the clutch or under pressure for you to be able to push the air out using the clutch pedal. Thunder Moose posted:I'll do the junkyard route - good tip. GWBBQ fucked around with this message at 02:07 on Apr 7, 2015 |
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2015 02:01
|
|
|
GWBBQ posted:Thanks! Never would have thought of that on my own but now that I have the new part in my hand it makes perfect sense. No Kinect or even prosumer level 3D scanner is going to be able to scan a little button with near enough accuracy that you'll be able to whip up a replacement super fast. Your best bet is going to be just whipping out some calipers and making some measurements. That said 3D printing a button is probably way more of a chore than you're estimating.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2015 03:17
|
|
|
InitialDave posted:Duesenbergs. Slavvy posted:e: gently caress YOU DAVE!!! Thread delivers, voted 5.  
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2015 03:21
|
|
|
Fun fact, legend has it that the phrase "It's a doozy" came from Duesenberg references (ie "Duesey").
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2015 04:27
|
|
|
I'm also pretty sure the power disparity between the duesenbergs and an average car for the time was greater (proportionally) than the difference between a Veyron and an average camry/accord type car today.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2015 04:31
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 26, 2024 23:11 |
|
|
Slavvy posted:I'm also pretty sure the power disparity between the duesenbergs and an average car for the time was greater (proportionally) than the difference between a Veyron and an average camry/accord type car today. Veyron GT has 1200 hp to a V6 Camry's 268, a ratio of about 4.5:1. A Duesenberg supercharged straight-8 made 320 hp to a Model A's 40, a ratio of 8:1. So it was nearly twice as more-awesome-than-a-normal-car as the Veyron.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2015 04:38
|
|