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langurmonkey
Oct 29, 2011

Getting healthy by posting on the Internet

hjp766 posted:

Inherited a project and finally finished rewiring and the fiddle yard. Turntable and permanent headshunt (that will be done to enable expansion) left to do.
Hopefully this album should work!

Set near where my friend grew up in the Yorkshire Wolds near Driffield.

https://plus.google.com/photos/117104743477197682061/albums/6145498002741456337

I never thought I would see my families home town immortalised on the Internet! That is a great looking model as well.

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Sauer
Sep 13, 2005

Socialize Everything!
Trying out a product call Flory Dirt Wash. Haven't wiped it off yet. As far as I can tell it is literally dirt. Someone threw some dirt in a bottle of water with a little surficant.



EDIT: Cautionary tale. Let your clear coat cure over night before apply Dirt Wash. I only let the Future sit for about an hour before I started applying the wash and it mixed in to the clear coat. Most of it still wiped off but there's definite streaks inside the clear coat. The spinner, which I didn't clear coat after applying the decals, cleaned off without issue. Still doesn't look to bad but the 109 is a lot dirtier now than I had planned. Like, crew chief was shot for treason dirty.

Sauer fucked around with this message at 03:38 on May 7, 2015

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us
Pillbug
I just made the same mistake with the kit that I'm working on. Thankfully it didn't gently caress up the paint too badly, but the colours are definitely not as vibrant as I wanted them to be.

Sauer
Sep 13, 2005

Socialize Everything!
I also need to rescind me earlier endorsement of Glad Press'n Seal as a masking material for canopies. It came up clean enough after a day on the clear plastic but this stuff has been on there over a week and it left behind a sticky, gummy residue that is hard to get off even with full strength isoprop. Got most of it degunked and a bit of Future spot dabbed on with a brush fixed it up, but it still only okayish.

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something

Boaz MacPhereson posted:

Ah, good lookin out. I've got some different stuff laying around so I'm sure I have something that will work.

Just an update on this. Be careful what you use for priming that vinyl.

I was priming some test pieces, and I never noticed that the Duplicolor up here in Canada is a different formulation than in the US. I primed the test piece earlier this week, but it remained tacky days later. Then I noticed the Duplicolor primer up here isn't a lacquer, but an alkyd, which is oil based. So that will probably never fully cure. I primed another test piece with regular old Tamiya Fine Surface Primer, and that worked flawlessly. Dried within a few fours. I'm going to test my usual primer, Rustoleum Painters Touch Primer, sometime next week, since it says it works on plastic on the label. Hopefully that will work too, as you get a lot more there for a lot cheaper, compared to Tamiya.

Boaz MacPhereson
Jul 11, 2006

Day 12045 Ht10hands 180lbs
No Name
No lumps No Bumps Full life Clean
Two good eyes No Busted Limbs
Piss OK Genitals intact
Multiple scars Heals fast
O NEGATIVE HI OCTANE
UNIVERSAL DONOR
Lone Road Warrior Rundown
on the Powder Lakes V8
No guzzoline No supplies
ISOLATE PSYCHOTIC
Keep muzzled...

Bloody Hedgehog posted:

Just an update on this. Be careful what you use for priming that vinyl.

I was priming some test pieces, and I never noticed that the Duplicolor up here in Canada is a different formulation than in the US. I primed the test piece earlier this week, but it remained tacky days later. Then I noticed the Duplicolor primer up here isn't a lacquer, but an alkyd, which is oil based. So that will probably never fully cure. I primed another test piece with regular old Tamiya Fine Surface Primer, and that worked flawlessly. Dried within a few fours. I'm going to test my usual primer, Rustoleum Painters Touch Primer, sometime next week, since it says it works on plastic on the label. Hopefully that will work too, as you get a lot more there for a lot cheaper, compared to Tamiya.

Tamiya primer is awesome stuff, but I tend to not keep much around because it's pretty spendy. I've got some Testors lacquer that should be ok though. I'll test it first on that spare head.

big_g
Sep 24, 2004

Our young men will have to shoot down their young men at the rate of four to one, if we're to keep pace at all.

Sauer posted:

Trying out a product call Flory Dirt Wash. Haven't wiped it off yet. As far as I can tell it is literally dirt. Someone threw some dirt in a bottle of water with a little surficant.



EDIT: Cautionary tale. Let your clear coat cure over night before apply Dirt Wash. I only let the Future sit for about an hour before I started applying the wash and it mixed in to the clear coat. Most of it still wiped off but there's definite streaks inside the clear coat. The spinner, which I didn't clear coat after applying the decals, cleaned off without issue. Still doesn't look to bad but the 109 is a lot dirtier now than I had planned. Like, crew chief was shot for treason dirty.



The Flory stuff is spot on stuff and saves a ton of time. I believe we were talking about it on page 110 if you are interested for a look.

The 109 looking like it is coming on great as well.

Forums Terrorist
Dec 8, 2011

I've been flying DCS Fishbed a bunch recently and now I want a nice Mig-21 model to sit on my desk. What's my best bet for 1/72? I tried making a Mastercraft Mig-21SM and it was a disaster, but it was also 5 bucks so gently caress it, I'll get another one.

Gervasius
Nov 2, 2010



Grimey Drawer

Forums Terrorist posted:

I've been flying DCS Fishbed a bunch recently and now I want a nice Mig-21 model to sit on my desk. What's my best bet for 1/72? I tried making a Mastercraft Mig-21SM and it was a disaster, but it was also 5 bucks so gently caress it, I'll get another one.

Revell's MiG-21F-13 is a gorgeous model. Get that one if you want an early MiG-21. I heard good things about Zvezda late model MiG-21s, but I have no personal experience with them.

Forums Terrorist
Dec 8, 2011

Yeah, I've made Zvesda's 1/100 kits before and they're generally good poo poo, so I'll take a peep around the local model shops and see if they have any of their Mig-21s. That said, i also picked up a Mastercraft F-16C and I'm kind of dreading how bad it will be.

Gervasius
Nov 2, 2010



Grimey Drawer
Speaking of Fishbeds, I ran into this:



Holy hell it's gorgeous.

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




Gervasius posted:

Revell's MiG-21F-13 is a gorgeous model. Get that one if you want an early MiG-21. I heard good things about Zvezda late model MiG-21s, but I have no personal experience with them.

The Zvezda is also the only mig-21bIs in 1/72 available now. I've also heard it's the best of the batch. It's personally on my list.

lilljonas
May 6, 2007

We got crabs? We got crabs!
Anyone who has experience of turning a airplane kit into a crashed airplane? We're building a WW2 wargaming tabletop at the local club, and I thought it would be interesting to add a downed Yak or Stuka or similar, and not just buildings and trees and stuff.

Current idea is to get whatever the cheapest 1/48 kit I can find online and go from there, but I'm not entirely sure how to make it look like a realistic wreck. But there's a lot of inspiration here:

https://www.pinterest.com/atom26181/crash-scenes-for-dioramas/

No Pun Intended
Jul 23, 2007

DWARVEN SEX OFFENDER

ASK ME ABOUT TONING MY FINE ASS DWARVEN BOOTY BY RUNNING FROM THE COPS OUTSIDE THAT ELF KINDERGARTEN

BEHOLD THE DONG OF THE DWARVES! THE DWARVEN DONG IS COMING!

lilljonas posted:

Anyone who has experience of turning a airplane kit into a crashed airplane? We're building a WW2 wargaming tabletop at the local club, and I thought it would be interesting to add a downed Yak or Stuka or similar, and not just buildings and trees and stuff.

Current idea is to get whatever the cheapest 1/48 kit I can find online and go from there, but I'm not entirely sure how to make it look like a realistic wreck. But there's a lot of inspiration here:

https://www.pinterest.com/atom26181/crash-scenes-for-dioramas/

Realistic how? Paint job or how it has crashed? For the second one I suggested pawing through reference photos until you find a look you like and copy that.

lilljonas
May 6, 2007

We got crabs? We got crabs!

No Pun Intended posted:

Realistic how? Paint job or how it has crashed? For the second one I suggested pawing through reference photos until you find a look you like and copy that.

Mostly how to re-adjust the structure and model the damages really. I think I can get the paint and such figured out with reference photos, but adjusting the structure seems harder. I've never kitbashed blown up tanks or similar either, so I'm just not sure how to go from a pristine kit to a bunch of mangled metal fallen from the sky.

E: otoh, looking at photos, I find more planes than I expected that are surprisingly intact after hitting the ground.

lilljonas fucked around with this message at 08:25 on May 8, 2015

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something
Really, all it takes is some judicious use of a pliers, a dremel, a saw, and a heat gun. Some varied Plastruct/Evergreen shapes can help add detail, along with some wiring and bit of brass sheet. If there's a gash in the plane, dremel out small slit for the gash, and then apply a bit of heat to soften things, then bend and cut away to make ragged edges. Brass sheet can make nice crushed and bent metal panels. Solder wire can be bent into all sort of mangled wire shapes. Visibile internals can be kitbashed out of just about anything, it doesn't need to be ultra accurate, just look like mechanical stuff.

lilljonas
May 6, 2007

We got crabs? We got crabs!

Bloody Hedgehog posted:

Really, all it takes is some judicious use of a pliers, a dremel, a saw, and a heat gun. Some varied Plastruct/Evergreen shapes can help add detail, along with some wiring and bit of brass sheet. If there's a gash in the plane, dremel out small slit for the gash, and then apply a bit of heat to soften things, then bend and cut away to make ragged edges. Brass sheet can make nice crushed and bent metal panels. Solder wire can be bent into all sort of mangled wire shapes. Visibile internals can be kitbashed out of just about anything, it doesn't need to be ultra accurate, just look like mechanical stuff.

Cool, thanks for the tip about brass sheet. I'll add some to the order and see if it works out.

3 Action Economist
May 22, 2002

Educate. Agitate. Liberate.

Bloody Hedgehog posted:

Really, all it takes is some judicious use of a pliers, a dremel, a saw, and a heat gun, a roll of duct tape, 4 ounces of urine, a slightly used hatchet, a steak, medium rare, a centrifuge, and an advanced degree in medieval literature.

NTRabbit
Aug 15, 2012

i wear this armour to protect myself from the histrionics of hysterical women

bitches




Forums Terrorist posted:

Yeah, I've made Zvesda's 1/100 kits before and they're generally good poo poo, so I'll take a peep around the local model shops and see if they have any of their Mig-21s. That said, i also picked up a Mastercraft F-16C and I'm kind of dreading how bad it will be.

I somehow came into possession of a Zhengdefu E-3 Sentry kit that's actually a 747 kit with a radar dome sprue, so it can't be that bad surely :v:

Forums Terrorist
Dec 8, 2011

Well, I mean the F-16 is at least an unlicensed copy of the Italeri kit more or less, from what I've read. The Mig-21's sprues didn't even line up with the instructions, so I gave up half way and I'm going to use the body as a camo test for the Zvesda one. Think I'll do this pattern:



Also, is vallejo Pale Blue a good colour for Soviet cockpits?

big_g
Sep 24, 2004

Our young men will have to shoot down their young men at the rate of four to one, if we're to keep pace at all.
I reckon I am calling this done on the Corsair now. Came out looking okay I think. After a long long while it's back to ground units now with a Long Range Desert Group Chevrolet 30 CWT scorpion next.

Picture dump then I'm done with this.





















Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us
Pillbug
Looks really beat up, I like what you did with the decals. Good job!

The Locator
Sep 12, 2004

Out here, everything hurts.





Great looking Corsair. After working 70 hour weeks for over a month, I really need to get back into the modeling room, straighten it up and get back to work on the boat.

Baronjutter
Dec 31, 2007

"Tiny Trains"

That is a really nice looking plane, great weathering.

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something
Looks good enough for a real carrier deck.

Nebakenezzer
Sep 13, 2005

The Mote in God's Eye

Nice job. The weathering really sells it as a Corsair of the SW Pacific.

big_g
Sep 24, 2004

Our young men will have to shoot down their young men at the rate of four to one, if we're to keep pace at all.

Bloody Hedgehog posted:

Looks good enough for a real carrier deck.



That is loving brilliant! Thanks very much. You did that so well I didn't even recognise my own plane at first glance.

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010

big_g posted:

That is loving brilliant! Thanks very much. You did that so well I didn't even recognise my own plane at first glance.

Ha! I just wanted to say that I can't tell if it's a real ship or a model with a filter on :v:

Arquinsiel
Jun 1, 2006

"There is no such thing as society. There are individual men and women, and there are families. And no government can do anything except through people, and people must look to themselves first."

God Bless Margaret Thatcher
God Bless England
RIP My Iron Lady
That really is work to be proud of.

Count Thrashula
Jun 1, 2003

Death is nothing compared to vindication.
Buglord
This Tamiya PzKpfw V Ausf. A was a lot of fun to build, I can't wait to paint it.

Boomer The Cannon
Oct 27, 2011

Gotta see it live!


Well done on the Corsair?

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us
Pillbug
Well, my Hetzer is going to look like poo poo by comparison.











It's an Academy 1:35th early production Hetzer (or Jagdpanzer 38(t) if you're some kind of sperg that insists on using the right names for things). Overall, the kit is very simple: hardly any interior (only the backs of periscopes), tracks come in sections instead of individual links (but if you put on the skirts you can't see them sag anyway, a few photo-etched grates and a string for a tow cable. All the parts went together well, there was not need for filling or sanding anything. Curiously enough, the kit comes with three gun barrels, each with progressively less detail.

The decal options are very simple: Balkenkreuz or slightly different Balkenkreuz. The manual shows three camouflage options, but none of them are ambush camo, which is the best looking and most fun to paint in my opinion.

The figures that it comes with are very nice, and the poses are very action-packed unlike most tank crew figures that are very relaxed. There is a problem though: if you want to keep the hatch open to put the commander in, you can't put the machinegun on, since it cannot fit while the hatch is open. I managed to drop the machinegun into the hatch and I can't get it out. It's quite nicely made, but you will have to take my word for it.

Sauer
Sep 13, 2005

Socialize Everything!

Ensign Expendable posted:

Well, my Hetzer is going to look like poo poo by comparison.

No that looks pretty awesome. I'm not sure if you did it on purpose but it looks like an old fashioned Serpia Tone photograph of a tank, I like it.

How many times when you were doing those dots did you go, "There done! Wait poo poo forgot that part!"?

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us
Pillbug
The sepia effect isn't intentional, but I guess it works. I didn't miss any dots when painting, but I managed to ruin the finish on some parts by not waiting long enough for the gloss to settle, so I had to redo those. I don't think it's noticeable on the end product though, so I'm pretty happy with it.

Sauer
Sep 13, 2005

Socialize Everything!
I think I'm done here. First model I've worked on since I was a kid and its been a hell of a learning experience. I had a really good time making this even with the frustrations listed below and I'm looking forward to my next project... once this bloody humidity dies down and stops flooding the moisture trap on my compressor :mad:.





Major lessons:
  • Let everything dry and cure before moving on. The dirt wash is way to dirty because the clear coat was not sufficiently dry before I applied the wash so it mixed in and wouldn't wipe away.
  • Thinning paint is hard. Practice before shooting it on a model. There's many coats of paint on the fuselage from me over or under thinning paint and getting either splattering or pooling.
  • Epoxy putty (Milliput Fine in this case) is awesome and kicks the poo poo out of Tamiya Putty for filling large gaps. The engine cowls outright didn't fit and had huge gaps in them. Tamiya just kept sinking into the gaps, Milliput didn't. Takes a lot longer to dry but see the first point. Drying time is good.
  • Keep tiny parts on the sprue while working on them. That model has no control stick, Revi sight or pitot tube because they decided they wanted to be free when grasping them with tweezers. They live somewhere in my home now... somewhere.
  • Keep tiny parts off the model until you really, really need them. I broke the radio antenna so many times its three millimeters shorter than it should be. I was also forced to use much thicker stretched sprue when wiring the antenna because anything smaller wouldn't support its own weight and pulled the fragile antenna off. I'm going to use "invisible" repair thread next time. Its super thin and strong, way thinner than fishing line. I also want to add attachment hardware for the antenna because it looks odd just floating like that.
  • Decant anything in a spray can and shoot it with your airbrush. I applied the matt coat straight from the rattle can and it went on way to heavy. This caused uneven drying times and made the finish crack. Repaired with some more gloss varnish and a thin coat of matt but you can still see it on large surfaces.
  • Don't use Glad Press'n Seal to mask your canopies. If you leave it on for more than a day it leaves behind a residue that is hell to remove. There's also damage to the canopy where cement crazed it from repairing the frequently broken antenna.
  • Get a real camera. My phone's camera is good for a phone camera but the focal length is so short you can't photograph a model without something being blurry and the aperture is so small you need to blast whatever you're shooting in light.

Ghetto Light box:

Sauer fucked around with this message at 01:30 on May 11, 2015

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us
Pillbug
Huh, that's still much better than my method. Maybe I should build one, but I don't really have the room :(

Sauer
Sep 13, 2005

Socialize Everything!
I made it that big because I have a pair of F-101 Voodoos I'll turning into CF-101s in the near future and they're huge. In 1:48 scale they're about a foot and a half long. I'm seriously going to have to get a real camera to photograph them because of how long they are. The box is way overkill for WWII aircraft. I might make a smaller one just for them. That box is made from cardboard with cheap dollar store white poster board glue on and took less than an hour to make. The diffusing material is the white protective foam sheeting that came out of the LED monitor box I chopped up to make the top and bottom. The whole costed about three bucks. No excuse, make a lightbox!

You can make a swanky one with duct tape and white foam-core and probably make it collapsible for storage.

Sauer fucked around with this message at 05:43 on May 11, 2015

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




Sauer posted:

I made it that big because I have a pair of F-101 Voodoos I'll turning into CF-101s in the near future

:getin:

edit:
http://www.canmilair.com/ (Disclaimer: I've never used this guy)

Sauer
Sep 13, 2005

Socialize Everything!
So much Alclad. I'm going to have all the cancer by the time I'm done painting them.

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Space Jam
Jul 22, 2008

I'm into my 5th model after getting back into modeling after well over a decade. It's a Trumpeter BMP-1P. gently caress individual track links. Oh my god.

:negative:

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