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BusinessWallet posted:Jesus, thanks for the head's up. Seems impossible to find a reliable example of this car for less than 40K. This is a car thats well worth the wait to find a clean example. If you don't, you're going to pay for it the rest of time you own the car's life. But a late model car like that would be a good idea to hit up a REPUTABLE indy shop and have them inspect it. Most inspections are 100ish.... just worth it.
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Jun 4, 2015 19:37
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BusinessWallet posted:Jesus, thanks for the head's up. Seems impossible to find a reliable example of this car for less than 40K.  Keep in mind most dealers are adding $2-4k in 'negotiable' price when they list them in the hopes you don't know this. A lot of private owners are insane maniacs who think the fact they forgot to ever drive their cars means BIG BUCKS in the resale market, and set unrealistic expectations, and probably won't be willing to deal as much, but I know when I was very casually looking at other ones to test drive beyond the one I bought, once I showed interest I had 3 dealerships in the SoCal area barrage-emailing me with cars they were dying to get rid of because they'd been on the lot for 3 months (as there is a limited market of buyers with actual money looking for this car, too) so I feel like there's more flexibility in dealer pricing than they're letting on. Here's a 22k mile '08 at $37k. http://cpo.bmwusa.com/used/BMW/2008-BMW-M3-bcb6f9cf0a0a00de3b7dd6f5cfc9a40c.htm?geoZip=91403 Details are a bit sparse for an alleged BMW dealer (like - which color black is it?) but by and large I feel like BMW dealers are probably less likely to accept lemons of this car because they know what to look for before getting stuck with a turd. Look in markets other than the lovely Snow Belt where people think it's a Real Big deal they didn't ruin their car with salt and grime and overprice accordingly. Avoid any car from Florida or Texas, like someone else mentioned. The chances a Floridian or Texan touched it at some point is entirely too large to take that chance. HotCanadianChick posted:That's life's way of telling you that you should really be looking for an E46 M3 (god's own true M3) instead. FWIW the guy I bought my E92 from traded his 20k mile 2004 E46 M3 in for it and said he never missed it once, the E92 was a thousand times more reliable and more fun to boot. He also did the BMW Nordschliefe training school twice, once in E92 and a year later in the F80 M4. He did not come home and purchase an F80 because of how it sounded.
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Jun 4, 2015 22:50
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dump any target VIN's in here to see the production info: http://www.bmwarchive.org/vin/bmw-vin-decoder.html
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Jun 4, 2015 23:27
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BlackMK4 posted:Hmm, well, there is a tight spot when you turn the rotor. that's nothing / is extremely common. Your disk is ever so slightly 'un-true' but if you can overcome the drag with your fingertips then it's not having any ill effects on the handling of the car. If the brakes were dragging enough to make the car pull to one side then you'd probably overheat the poo poo out of whatever pad is dragging and you'd be able to smell it and also stopping power would be reduced. I know you've done a few things to track the issue down, and i remember reading that you replaced the tie rod ends. Spitballing, some other things id look at to diagnose a pulling issue: front lower control arm ball joints front lower control arm bushings (meyle hd ftw) horribly worn front upper strut mounts rear trailing arm bushings tire quality tire pressures totally shot wheel bearings (had to replace both my fronts, but the one corner in your vid didn't sound crunchy at all) steering rack bushings, maybe? this was a problem on my '97 S14. Haven't heard anything about them being a problem on a BMW but that doesn't mean much because I haven't searched. steering shaft u-joint/giubo (wouldn't make the car pull but would make steering feel vague) Pierced Bronson fucked around with this message at 12:48 on Jun 5, 2015 |
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Jun 5, 2015 12:23
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So, my 540i has a problem. A couple of months ago I lost the lower bolt holding the power steering pump in place. It had become crooked (slightly bending the upper mounting bolt) and pinched the belt. I fixed it, replaced the bolt, loctited it, used a lock washer, etc, expecting that would be the end of it. This week the car began to make the same weird grinding noises and when I looked, the pump was crooked again. I got under it, pulled the pan off, and the bolt was backed out slightly. I begin tightening it, pulling the pump back into it's normal position, when the bottom bolt shears. gently caress. poo poo. Then the whole pump drops, because the upper rear mount had sheared and the front bolt didn't, but the ear on the pump itself that it went through sheared off. GODDAMN gently caress. So now the pump is held in place solely by the steering lines (I have it zip-tied up at the moment), I have half a bolt still in the engine block (I tried unsuccessfully to extract it, it's an 8.8 bolt, I didn't make any headway at all with what I have), and the pump itself has a mounting ear broken off. I think I found a shop willing to attempt to weld the ear back onto the pump rather than replace it, and extract the bolt. Removing and reinstalling the pump is the easy part. This goddamn car.
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Jun 5, 2015 14:07
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Pierced Bronson posted:that's nothing / is extremely common. Your disk is ever so slightly 'un-true' but if you can overcome the drag with your fingertips then it's not having any ill effects on the handling of the car. If the brakes were dragging enough to make the car pull to one side then you'd probably overheat the poo poo out of whatever pad is dragging and you'd be able to smell it and also stopping power would be reduced. Welp, that's what's left. I find it really hard to believe that the tires would make it pull as bad as it does.
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Jun 5, 2015 15:44
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http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/ctd/5056974771.html Thoughts on this 528i? Kbb has them at 3-4k, so 7k is a bit more... But it "looks" to be in really great shape. Thom ZombieForm fucked around with this message at 16:20 on Jun 5, 2015 |
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Jun 5, 2015 16:03
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That's a 528i and the price is insane. Buy a 540i.
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Jun 5, 2015 16:14
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Also, related to my previous post, where would be the best place (price & quality) to buy a rebuilt or just used power steering pump for my E39 540I? The pump is different than a 740i pump so my options become more limited.
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Jun 5, 2015 16:22
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BlackMK4 posted:Welp, that's what's left. I find it really hard to believe that the tires would make it pull as bad as it does. How much do you weigh? I remember some big lady losing her poo poo when a kia dealership suggested she be sitting in the car while they did the alignment because her enormous girth was causing the car to turn like a skateboard. CornHolio posted:Also, related to my previous post, where would be the best place (price & quality) to buy a rebuilt or just used power steering pump for my E39 540I? The pump is different than a 740i pump so my options become more limited. pick n pull or pretty much any junkyard should be able to locate one. mine has "01 540i" written on the front of the pulley, so it has obviously been replaced with used at some point.
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Jun 5, 2015 16:32
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Powershift posted:How much do you weigh?
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Jun 5, 2015 16:34
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Progression Please posted:http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/ctd/5056974771.html The mileage is quite low for the year and it is a one owner car but a silver manual trans 5 series is not "rare" by any stretch. If it's totally sorted (cooling system is newish, brakes, suspension, bushings, etc are replaced) then $5k wouldn't be out of the question. The typical 3-4k 5 series is going to need some or all of what I listed and if you DIY it can add up to $1000 in parts.
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Jun 5, 2015 16:59
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BLKMK4: Why not just blow the money for two new E46 front rotors? Do you know what brand those crossdrilled rotors are?
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Jun 5, 2015 17:00
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Powershift posted:How much do you weigh? My local junkyard has never had a 540i. They have a couple of 740is but those are different. I'm in northern Indiana, and my options for pick-n-pulls is kinda limited.
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Jun 5, 2015 17:00
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car-part.com
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Jun 5, 2015 17:32
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Awesome site. Incidentally my company does some work w/ them. I think I can get a tour of their operation soon. Apparently their datacenter is AT a junkyard.
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Jun 5, 2015 17:34
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BlackMK4 posted:I find it really hard to believe that the tires would make it pull as bad as it does. It is improbable, but stranger things have been known to happen. What make/model tire do you have? any idea of the age? Also have you tried swapping the front wheels left and right just to see if it pulls differently, or have you noticed any uneven treadwear? Pierced Bronson fucked around with this message at 17:44 on Jun 5, 2015 |
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Jun 5, 2015 17:36
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Pierced Bronson posted:It is improbable, but stranger things have been known to happen. What make/model tire do you have? any idea of the age? Also have you tried swapping the front wheels left and right just to see if it pulls differently, or have you noticed any uneven treadwear? Keyser S0ze posted:BLKMK4: Why not just blow the money for two new E46 front rotors? Do you know what brand those crossdrilled rotors are? I did yesterday.  Still pulls.
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Jun 5, 2015 17:54
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At that point i'd almost be pulling up the carpet looking for creases in the body.
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Jun 5, 2015 18:17
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I remember reading an article in EVO or some other "Motoring magazine that knows what they're talking about" a couple years ago discussing tramlining in tires, and how surprised they were to find vastly different levels of it in some brands of tires that were otherwise very similar in all-around/general performance. So maybe try swapping the tires and see what happens? Unfortunately I don't remember enough of the specifics to find the article (or remember what brands they said did it more) but the tone was definitely "Now here's something we didn't expect".
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Jun 5, 2015 18:51
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BraveUlysses posted:car-part.com Oh wow, thanks!
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Jun 5, 2015 18:51
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Powershift posted:At that point i'd almost be pulling up the carpet looking for creases in the body. I was a body guy for a couple of years, there is no evidence of a past repair. First thing I looked for when I bought the car, I've been all over it. 
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Jun 5, 2015 18:53
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Ether Frenzy posted:I remember reading an article in EVO or some other "Motoring magazine that knows what they're talking about" a couple years ago discussing tramlining in tires, and how surprised they were to find vastly different levels of it in some brands of tires that were otherwise very similar in all-around/general performance. So maybe try swapping the tires and see what happens? Unfortunately I don't remember enough of the specifics to find the article (or remember what brands they said did it more) but the tone was definitely "Now here's something we didn't expect". E46s are sensitive to tramlining and I can confirm that different tires will exacerbate the feeling. So will incorrect tire pressure, worn tires, and worn control arm bushings.
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Jun 5, 2015 19:29
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fwiw i have Continental Extreme Contact DW, and for the price they are 8/10 would recommend. My E46 came with ContiSportContact when new but I didn't quite have the cash for new ones and the DWs seem to be a decent compromise. The sidewalls flex a bit tho which makes the car jiggle when you come to an abrupt stop, other than that I like them plenty. Tramlining is new vocab for me but they don't do it much, even on the stretch of highway I commute on which is for some reason grooved in the direction of travel. Also curious what others run for PSI on their E46... this has probably been asked a lot before but I run ~36f/38r. I think the doorjamb says something ridiculous like over 40psi
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Jun 5, 2015 21:26
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Pierced Bronson posted:fwiw i have Continental Extreme Contact DW, and for the price they are 8/10 would recommend. My E46 came with ContiSportContact when new but I didn't quite have the cash for new ones and the DWs seem to be a decent compromise. The sidewalls flex a bit tho which makes the car jiggle when you come to an abrupt stop, other than that I like them plenty. Tramlining is new vocab for me but they don't do it much, even on the stretch of highway I commute on which is for some reason grooved in the direction of travel. Door jamb numbers are 36f/44r for max weight and the stagger setup. Normal weight is 29f/33r but I find the tramlining especially while braking is much worse with those numbers. The car will really pull to one side or the other if there is any kind of rut or imperfection in the road. I tend to run 38f/42r and that helps.
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Jun 5, 2015 21:43
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BraveUlysses posted:car-part.com Is this a good place to buy junkyard parts? Ive been getting screwed on a rear bumper for the past 4 months with Bavarian auto recycling. First one was lost in shipping. Second was broken in shipping, waiting on a 3rd. I have called them 8 times and they keep "forgetting" to ship. I'm already in for this one, but I really need a new place for junk yard parts.
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Jun 5, 2015 22:11
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Dyscrasia posted:Is this a good place to buy junkyard parts? Kind of. It's a listing service, so you end up contacting the individual junkyard. The one guy I ordered a three stage manifold from Long Island was fantastic; lots of detailed photos, fast shipping, well packed, etc. But, mileage may vary!
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Jun 5, 2015 22:36
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I've only used it once, 10 years ago and it worked well. Website hasn't really evolved much since then either.
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Jun 5, 2015 22:50
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Any alternative is better than Bavarian auto recycling. So worth a shot.
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Jun 5, 2015 23:39
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Dyscrasia posted:Is this a good place to buy junkyard parts? Not to plug my friends business but http://www.importapart.com is a seriously good used auto parts supplier. Not sure if they stock your part but you could certainly try.
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Jun 6, 2015 01:11
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revmoo posted:Apparently their datacenter is AT a junkyard. That makes me so happy. It's just as it should be. I hope it's run on scrapped servers racked in angle iron with old steelies welded to the bottom as feet.
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Jun 6, 2015 21:53
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Motronic posted:That makes me so happy. It's just as it should be. I'm going to build my next desk around this idea just because it sounds awesome.
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Jun 6, 2015 22:54
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Thanks for all the advice so far, this has been super helpful. Today I test drove a 2008 911, Evora, E63, Mustang GT and a 2012 M3. The M3 was by far the best and most fun, I'm actually surprised at how much more fun it was than the 911. I found the car below locally, I was thinking about going in on Monday and offering 37K flat out. They have the car listed as fully loaded but it doesn't even have power seats! I don't want iDrive so this car is perfect. Miles are a little high but I hear these things are pretty reliable. http://goo.gl/Y0Lmcj What do you guys think?
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Jun 7, 2015 00:41
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Technically, non powered seats are an advantage, it shaves a large chunk of weight off the car.
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Jun 7, 2015 04:25
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BusinessWallet posted:Thanks for all the advice so far, this has been super helpful. So even after all of those, still the M? I'm really interested since I've been M shopping too. Did you also test drive a C63 and/or CLA45? Or how about a Chevy SS? Also, I'm impressed BMW even makes a non powered driver's seat. I would have assumed it simply wasn't an option, like manual windows or something.
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Jun 7, 2015 04:28
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Mat_Drinks posted:So even after all of those, still the M? I'm really interested since I've been M shopping too. Did you also test drive a C63 and/or CLA45? Or how about a Chevy SS? Pretty sure manual cloth seats have been an option on every generation of M3.
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Jun 7, 2015 05:36
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BusinessWallet posted:
What year was the E63? The '12+ TT 5.5 is a whole different animal versus the 6.2 NA car, and frankly a lot more car than any of the rest of your list.
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Jun 7, 2015 06:11
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BusinessWallet posted:What do you guys think? I don't know if you're price shopping or just have luck picking sketchy cars... that one was listed at a second rate "luxury" car dealer in Georgia for a few months, then sold at auction and turned up in a Nissan used car lot in New Jersey. That would give me significant pause.
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Jun 7, 2015 13:01
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BusinessWallet posted:http://goo.gl/Y0Lmcj meatpimp posted:I don't know if you're price shopping or just have luck picking sketchy cars... that one was listed at a second rate "luxury" car dealer in Georgia for a few months, then sold at auction and turned up in a Nissan used car lot in New Jersey. That would give me significant pause. Its your money, do what you like, but this right here would make me double check it. Make sure you are running the vin, but any thing sketchy like this makes wonder what happened. Granted there are a few dealers out there that do deal in just second hand used sports/rare-ish cars, and if they are dumping it quick, I'd be wondering.
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Jun 7, 2015 18:17
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I'm super picky but I'd only buy one of these from a BMW dealer if I hadn't found the right private seller. At least then there's someone in corporate who if nothing else might feel a little brand-shame if you do have any issues, and in theory if it's on a BMW lot it either a) got traded in by someone who liked and cared for it enough to come get another BMW or b) was purchased by BMW auction buyers with knowledge about the car's quality/saleability and were confident it wasn't going to be a problem car that sits on the lot for 2-3-4 months gathering dust. Also anything that needed done before the dealer selling it was done by people who might have seen one of them before and not a Nissan tech with a downloaded PDF. Also it's weird to have non-power seats in the theory of 'lightness' but then add 100 pounds of moonroof over your head. Don't forget you have to pay tax on the purchase.
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Jun 7, 2015 21:23
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