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Wife took a decent action shot while I was working - you can see the new engine in the background getting ready. My brother in law stopped by just as I was getting ready to drop the motor in. It went in very smoothly, but having a second set of hands is always nice. Engine is bolted into the truck, and about half of the bellhousing bolts are in. Need to put the rest of the bellhousing bolts in and then mate the torque converter with the flex plate. After that I can start putting on accessories, exhaust, driveshafts, wiring, etc.  I was kind of disappointed with how the engine was taken out of the truck. With how meticulous this guy was with all his paperwork, the condition of the truck, etc, it seemed like he was either rushing when pulling the engine or he was getting in over his head. He broke both fuel feed lines (they are quick disconnect, you don't even need special tools), and the broke the plastic T fitting from the on board air compressor to the air lines. The radiator support is bent as was the condenser (he supplied new pieces for both). I thought that was the worst of it. I was wrong. In the service procedure for engine removal, it says to remove the wiper motor and cowl. It was still on the truck. It fought me tooth and nail coming out, and when I finally got the plastic cowl off I saw why. The wiper transmission bracket was touching the windshield, and that is what caused the windshield to crack! He pulled the engine, it snagged under the cowl and he pulled it up enough to kink the sheet metal cowl and force the wiper transmission bracket into the glass. Nice. Just going to bend the panel back to where it needs to be, but not until after the glass guy comes and puts in a new windshield.
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Jun 26, 2015 05:44
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Maybe I'm wrong... But didn't you have a VW with a transplanted 3800 in the rear? If so, what happened to it? And the Toyota?
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Jun 26, 2015 07:44
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Last I remember, the Toyota was parked to get some engine work done (MOAR POWER?!). Or was that the Colorado? I think the Colorado got a bigger engine (..again) at some point. I remember the VW, really curious what happened there. I know the electrical was a nightmare on it. Now that you mention it, I don't think I've seen either of them make a recent appearance. 
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Jun 26, 2015 08:32
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FuzzKill posted:In the service procedure for engine removal, it says to remove the wiper motor and cowl. It was still on the truck. It fought me tooth and nail coming out, and when I finally got the plastic cowl off I saw why. The wiper transmission bracket was touching the windshield, and that is what caused the windshield to crack! He pulled the engine, it snagged under the cowl and he pulled it up enough to kink the sheet metal cowl and force the wiper transmission bracket into the glass. Nice. Just going to bend the panel back to where it needs to be, but not until after the glass guy comes and puts in a new windshield. I'd strongly recommend doing the bending BEFORE putting the new glass in... last thing you want is the new glass cracking when you start bending the metal around it again. I know the wiper linkage hit it, but really, it takes very little to set off a windshield in the wrong spot... I've had chassis flex cause it, even on a good condition windshield. Looks awesome otherwise, too bad he took shortcuts pulling it apart.
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Jun 27, 2015 01:22
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some texas redneck posted:Last I remember, the Toyota was parked to get some engine work done (MOAR POWER?!). Or was that the Colorado? I think the Colorado got a bigger engine (..again) at some point. The Colorado already had the 6.0 and a blower so its pretty much at the peak of perfection. Though I would like to hear about the VW disaster/awesomeness.
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Jun 27, 2015 03:57
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BrokenKnucklez posted:The Colorado already had the 6.0 and a blower so its pretty much at the peak of perfection. Corolla is in the yard, engineless. I've kind of lost most interest in it, I'd like to find a first gen Celica and put that drivetrain into it. That would make for a much better driver. I'd also consider an old Z and probably use the spare 6.0L I have instead, but all these old Japanese cars are made of cardboard =( Colorado gets driven regularly, the blower is off currently until I put the lumpy cam in. Then it goes back on. Rear/mid engine GTI is turnkey and just needs some minor cosmetics (If you don't count the two tone widebody kit against it). Once I finish what with the Colorado and the lifts are up I will probably prep the VW and sell it. Not sure what I can get for it, the market is small/non existent I'm sure. If I sit on it for a bit though I'm sure I can make a profit on it to the right person - I picked it up for next to nothing. I drive the Genesis the most, probably a 75/25 split with the truck. Genesis gets twice the mileage  Anyway, in (big) truck news ... Got the torque converter mated to the flex plate, and all the bellhousing bolts on and snugged. Got the starter in along with the lower power harness, and the exhaust manifolds and heat shields on. Installed new plugs and swapped the coils over. I'd start running the engine harness but I'm still waiting for the replacement fuel lines to come from the dealer. They get buried under/behind the harness and it's all the way behind the intake so I don't want to make that harder than it needs to be. Ready to call it a night for now, hopefully the lines come in so I can keep moving along.
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Jun 27, 2015 06:12
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If you have any pictures of how they shoe horned that engine in I'm interested. The only thing that could one up the 6.0 in the truck is the newer 6.2. But I hear there is a ton of electronics to jack with.
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Jun 27, 2015 13:10
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Did you just buy a brand new 3UR-FE for that truck? Also how the hell does someone blow a hole in the block on one of those.
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Jun 27, 2015 20:56
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Did you just buy a brand new 3UR-FE for that truck? Also how the hell does someone blow a hole in the block on one of those. Ha, a new 3UR is about what the truck is worth. I got a low mileage used unit with a 1 year warranty. Reman ones go for about 2k more than used - which go for around 4k. Dealer quoted him $22k to replace the engine.  It runs! Open headers and no coolant but it runs! I've got a lot of small things left to do, only major components are the exhaust and the radiator/condenser assembly. I'll have some more pictures up as I go.
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Jun 28, 2015 01:57
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FuzzKill posted:Ha, a new 3UR is about what the truck is worth. Ya, I was gonna say - dealer price on a new engine is $$$$$!! Best of luck, send me a PM if you need access to the Toyota parts lists, prices, exploded diagrams, etc.
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Jun 28, 2015 02:37
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Nothing like hitting the key and poo poo starts the first time. Congrats!
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Jun 28, 2015 02:58
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FuzzKill posted:It runs! Open headers and no coolant but it runs! drat, you work fast FuzzKill.
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Jun 28, 2015 15:02
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Toyota, you just got FuzzKilled. Prepare your butterflies for forced induction. (Did they make the TRD supercharger kit for that gen of truck?) ((Why flip, when you can roll?))
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Jun 28, 2015 16:46
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Oh they absolutely do make factory supercharger kits and they are lovely Maksimus54 fucked around with this message at 19:23 on Jun 28, 2015 |
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Jun 28, 2015 19:21
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I don't know about the 3UR but in general those TRD blowers are a bit undersized for the application, a bit overdriven to compensate for the size, and you're lucky if the kit includes an air/water to compensate for the extra heat that situation creates. Otherwise you get a pig rich tune (and/or extra injector) to keep detonation from becoming an issue. I mean they're warranty approved and they do give a decent performance bump, but they're much less than ideal. Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 19:36 on Jun 28, 2015 |
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Jun 28, 2015 19:33
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It sounds like you need a blower off a 4-53. Those are a bit over half the displacement of your engine, but two stroke, so I suspect that one would work well if geared to run at the same speed as it would on the detroit. Failing that, a 6-71 or 8v71 blower... 
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Jun 28, 2015 23:59
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kastein posted:It sounds like you need a blower off a 4-53. Those are a bit over half the displacement of your engine, but two stroke, so I suspect that one would work well if geared to run at the same speed as it would on the detroit. Failing that, a 6-71 or 8v71 blower... Don't those generally need the screws moved in tighter to work well on performance applications? I was under the impression that those Detroit blowers needed some work to be effective.
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Jun 29, 2015 01:46
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In the case of the 53 series they need a lot of custom machining to even run it off a pulley. New drive end plate, a shaft, a helical gear and all the fixins, not to mention an intake manifold. All from the ground up. The 71s were popular as superchargers so you can buy all the stuff you need to convert it over off the shelf. I've never heard of anybody who's made all that stuff for a 53, even as a one-off (and I looked, because I briefly pondered using that 3-53 blower I had as a supercharger before I gave it to Seat Safety Switch for AISS). Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 02:08 on Jun 29, 2015 |
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Jun 29, 2015 01:59
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FuzzKill posted:Corolla is in the yard, engineless. I've kind of lost most interest in it, I'd like to find a first gen Celica and put that drivetrain into it. That would make for a much better driver. I'd also consider an old Z and probably use the spare 6.0L I have instead, but all these old Japanese cars are made of cardboard =( Didn't the Colorado go through 2 engine swaps? I seem to remember it originally getting a smaller V8 (5.3?) in the first engine swap, though I may be mixing up AI projects. I also remember it starting as a bare bones work truck, and getting factory equipment to upgrade to keyless entry, power locks, etc (and also remember how much poo poo you got for your choice of torque converter). How much re-tuning did you need to do when you removed the blower?
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Jun 29, 2015 07:51
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some texas redneck posted:Didn't the Colorado go through 2 engine swaps? I seem to remember it originally getting a smaller V8 (5.3?) in the first engine swap, though I may be mixing up AI projects. I also remember it starting as a bare bones work truck, and getting factory equipment to upgrade to keyless entry, power locks, etc (and also remember how much poo poo you got for your choice of torque converter). Yeah I put in a 5.3L in originally, and drove it like that for awhile - later on down the road I got a basically free 6.0L so I put on some LS9 head gaskets and a little bit of valvetrain work to go with the cam. I had a lot of problems with the cam, so I've never really had it going with the 6.0L and the blower (or cam for that matter). I got the cam exchanged and it's on my shelf ready to go along with the supercharger when I get some time. Right now it's a 6.0L with a 5.3L cam in it - you don't hear about that cam swap that often  In Tundra news, I knew everything went too smoothly. Once I got the rest of the exhaust, cooling system, and drivetrain installed I let it run for a bit. Since it was no longer deafening, I heard a new noise. It sounded like a bad idler pulley rattling. I figured no biggie, since I reused all the belt drive including the belt and pullies from the old motor. I hopped out of the truck and to my dismay the sound was very audibly not coming from the drive, but from the bellhousing area. As a precaution, I disconnected the drive belt and no dice - still there. My last ditch effort was to add 2 quarts of ATF to the transmission. I knew it had lost some fluid between the torque converter, cooler lines, and being disconnected, but I was unsure of how much. The check/fill procedure is done from under the truck, once it reaches operating temperature. I wasn't too keen on laying down under the truck trying to add fluid between hot exhaust and strange metallic noises coming from the bellhousing - if something let loose I did not want to be right in its path. The noise isn't that bad, but with not knowing for sure what it was I have better things to do. The newly added ATF did not change the noise. drat. There is no way I would pull the engine again, so I'm dropping the tranny. Still sucks, but not as bad. Would be nice if the lifts were up but apparently nobody wants to take my money. Tonight I dropped the exhaust, removed the driveshaft(s), removed the tranny harness, tranny cooler, and hoses. Also removed the passenger side manifold and the starter for access to the TC bolts. As far as ideas, I only have one theory. There is a crank trigger wheel sandwiched between a spacer and the flex plate. The wheel was slightly damaged on the old engine, it appears to have been hit by pieces of connecting rod/piston that decided to move away from home. I straightened one tooth, and filed down several others that got hit. I checked for clearance to the crank sensor when I installed it, and it looked true but maybe I didn't pay enough attention to it. That's the only idea I have, hopefully if it is anything else it will be easily identifiable by some marks or likewise.
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Jun 30, 2015 05:22
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Aw man, the irony of that sweet rear end shop and the lifts sitting there laughing at you...
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Jun 30, 2015 10:19
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It turns out my theory was correct. gently caress. Dropping the trans down on the ground sucks. This thing is monstrous. I had a friend offer to help, which was welcomed. We disconnected the TC bolts, took out the bellhousing bolts, and got to work. I have a proper transmission jack, but it isn't a floor tranny jack - its an underlift unit so we were working with two floor jacks. Despite our best efforts, it would not balance between the two jacks so we attempted to control it's descent as best we could. Getting it back up is going to be fun. Here is a look at the beast on the ground  Here is what we are looking at with the flex plate and crank sensor wheel removed. No obvious signs of interference ...  A HA!   That little fucker. Just barely clipping the heads of those two bolts. The sensor wheel must be slightly out of round. Looking at it now, I probably could have attempted to bend the wheel through the starter hole and avoided dropping the tranny - but I'd still have to reconnect the exhaust and reinstall the exhaust manifold to be able to hear if it fixed the problem. And without a visual, I suspected this might have been the noise but I couldn't be sure. No fun either way, this engine is shoehorned in here. Everything is either through the wheelwell or from underneath - I probably could have left the hood closed the whole time save for the top two bellhousing bolts. I ordered the crank sensor wheel this morning before I dropped the tranny and I'm glad I did. It is shipping from California though, expecting 1-2 days to come in. Also picked up some new o-rings for the cooler and sandwich plate, I already reused them once and I don't want to push my luck.
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Jul 1, 2015 05:26
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At least it isn't tranny damage.some texas redneck posted:His only gripe is anytime he gets near them (they seem to have a mix of motions and IR beams - I haven't figured it out entirely, but I've tripped them by walking within 5 ft of the doors), the lights come on (and they're wall mounted instead of ceiling). He hates the lights, but he was trying to stay 100% legal and pulled a permit. You can turn that feature off, yo. http://liftmaster.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/157/related/1/session/L2F2LzEvdGltZS8xNDM1ODc0MDY2L3NpZC9mU3o1UW5xbQ%3D%3D
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Jul 2, 2015 22:56
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Lift guy is supposed to be coming tomorrow, as is the glass guy to put a new windshield in the truck. I have the day off, going to try and finish the truck tonight so it is not in the way tomorrow.
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Jul 3, 2015 01:24
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CharlesM posted:You can turn that feature off, yo. There's no light button on his, IIRC. It's a LCD panel with a button to open/close, and another button to lock. I think. I haven't been by in awhile, but I definitely remember one of them always showing "LOCKED" (the door he rarely uses). They're actually mounted to the door itself, and attach where the chain to open/close the door would normally go. I know the doors can be programmed to automatically engage the locks after they've been closed for awhile - I think he has his setup to lock after a few minutes. There's an emergency release for both of the locks on each door (which engage on both tracks) and another to disengage the opener. His are industrial models intended for roll-up doors, with a completely separate light module. I'll send that link to him anyway though, in case I'm remembering wrong. They share the light module between the two doors somehow, and the remotes are the typical 3 button you see for a home install on either Chamberlain or Lift Master. One button for one door, one for the other.
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Jul 3, 2015 02:42
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^^ I hear my opener click when I walk under it, but alas, there are no bulbs in the housing. Truck is done mechanically. It feels good. By some wizardry, I was able to get the transmission off the ground and mated back to the engine by myself (working on the floor still). Got all the bellhousing bolts and and crossmember back up and called it a night yesterday. Tonight I installed the TC bolts, exhaust, driveshafts, and the tranny harness. Started right up! And quiet this time - almost can't even hear it running in the cabin. I let it run for a bit and when I was satisfied I went ahead and charged up the A/C with my recovery unit. I let it run for about 30 minutes outside checking periodically for any leaks or noises and it appears we are good to go - after that idling time the AC was blowing in the low 40*'s, works for me. I didn't want to reinstall the windshield cowl or hood until the glass guy replaces the windshield - just makes it easier for the both of us. Once he replaces the glass I can install the rest of the body and go for a test drive! Lift guy is supposed to be coming tomorrow as well (today now), hoping this guy isn't a flake.
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Jul 3, 2015 06:28
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Awesome find on the truck. What's up next?
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Jul 3, 2015 06:37
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I'm jealous  Having a lift has to be cool.
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Jul 3, 2015 08:31
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Lift installation is occurring! Once they're done, there will be nothing left on my list!
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Jul 3, 2015 14:26
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Unf... Lifts are the poo poo. But I am excited to see the next project.
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Jul 3, 2015 14:49
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You better do some crazy poo poo in that garage now that you have a lift.
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Jul 3, 2015 15:06
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This thread delivers! Hell yea
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Jul 3, 2015 15:27
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Getting there!
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Jul 3, 2015 17:13
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FuzzKill posted:Getting there! That looks awesome! Was the prep work you did in the pad right for the installation?
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Jul 3, 2015 17:23
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Man you know how to upgrade
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Jul 3, 2015 17:33
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So how is the heat in the garage, is it bearable? We're pretty much in the dog days now.
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Jul 3, 2015 18:50
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leica posted:So how is the heat in the garage, is it bearable? We're pretty much in the dog days now. It's hot of course, but it's not crazy. Just need some fans in the workspace and you're good. I may consider some type of vent to get better circulation, that would help as well. Lifts are up and done, just need to get wired to 220v. They tested/adjusted them on 110v so I know everything is good to go. I called my electrician as he offered to hook them up for free once they were up and he is supposed to be coming out on Sunday. I could wire them myself, but I would have to go buy conduit/flex and he will do it for free - plus I'm sure it will look more professional if he takes care of it. The 10k lift is farther back than I had in my head - but we can fit a 3500 crew cab DRW on it and still have room to work up front. Need to relocate my toolbox now, probably bring it around front of the support column.    Got the windshield replaced on the Tundra, so we went ahead and threw the hood back on. Going to reinstall the wiper cowl/transmission and then I can install the headlights and bumper and have a complete truck! That works out well, because the title just came in the mail today so it can be up for sale as soon as I'm done.
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Jul 3, 2015 21:34
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Less than 10 hours after the lifts are done, the fuel pump on my brother in laws Yukon died. I towed it about 8 miles home with the Colorado, and then ran some temporary leads from the 220v power drop to the lift. Talk about timing! The Rotary performed well, I probably won't test out the other lift until he comes to permanently wire them on Sunday.  Once he's done with the Yukon, I'll bring the Tundra back in and get the skid plate and fender liners on and then we're pretty much done. I got the hood, upper bumper, lower bumper, headlights, cowl, wiper motor, etc all installed before he broke down.
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Jul 4, 2015 05:43
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You have an awesome workspace and the fact that you did most of the work to create it is also awesome. Good on you dude.
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Jul 4, 2015 06:14
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| # ? May 11, 2024 13:48 |
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dreesemonkey posted:This thread delivers! Hell yea Seriously. Great job on the garage and I hope you keep the thread open for all of the projects you'll be working on.
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Jul 4, 2015 12:58
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