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tater_salad posted:^^^ or the guy doesn't live in the north.. there are so many times where rust/crust has made some bolts no longer a spesific size so you end up rounding them becsuse nothing fits, or using a locked adjust. What's rust?  The only times I've needed to deal with nuts/bolts that no longer fit in proper wrenches or sockets, have been bolts that have been rounded off too badly to grab with the proper tool anymore (sometimes rounded off from POs using adjustable wrenches on them!), and in those cases I break out the torch and regular ol' vice grips. Or weld a nut on top of them. Or dremel them off.
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Jul 15, 2015 20:49
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I'm not sure if I should post this here or in the AC thread but being a vague enough question, I'll post it here. We've had a couple of days over 35C recently and my AC can only manage to barf out lukewarm air once the temperature outside gets too high. Being that it's close to a 25 year old car, I would imagine it's just low on refrigerant and the R12 ports (sorry, ozone layer!) are practically untouched so I was willing to leave it at that and get a charge but yesterday I was eating lunch in my works parking lot with the AC on (about 35C outside) and the engine started to surge. It went up about 1000rpms and fell back down about 3 or 4 times before settling back to idle. This happened about 2 or 3 more times and turning off the AC mid surge brought it back to normal idle immediately without any further interruptions. Stupid vague question: Is there probably more wrong with my AC than low gas? 92 Miata black, original RHD R12 system as far as I know. I'd check the sight glass but the outside face is all scratched and hazed over so all I can really see is vague movement in the system.
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Jul 16, 2015 06:01
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HaB posted:327 stuff I'd agree with everyone saying that it sounds like idle mixture. But, if you have another coil you can jam in there to test with, that's easy and quick to do. Do you have a timing light? I'd make sure your base timing is right, too. Too low base timing (and thus relying on the mechanical advance getting you back into the "ok" zone) might have that problem, and I guess weak spark might have a similar effect? I dunno, man. Like they say, whenever your gut tells you it feels like a carb problem, it's timing. Whenever it tells you it's a timing problem, it's the carb. Where are you located? Maybe there's an AIer who can lend a hand, or a spare coil, or something. Edit: I just remembered that there was a time I had a compromised air filter (there was a plastic spacer between the carburetor and filter, and that spacer was cracked), and I had a similar problem. Turned out to be a piece of crud stuck somewhere in the idle circuit of the carburetor. I bought two cans of carb cleaner, took the whole thing apart, and blasted it all out. Ran fine after. I'd kind of suspect that this isn't your problem, because you said it didn't just start all of a sudden; it's been doing that the whole time you've had it. Plus, your idle is set kind of high; I have a mild-to-medium cam in my 350 (LT4 hot cam) and it idles at 650RPM or so in drive. Just out of curiosity, does it "idle" fine if you hold the throttle just baaarely open when you're idling, or does it require you to "punch" the throttle for it to not stall? Raluek fucked around with this message at 07:53 on Jul 16, 2015 |
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Jul 16, 2015 07:43
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Go read the AC thread but I had something similar happen with my NB and my MS3. Mazda's idle programming is so simple that it just automatically kicks the throttle open another x% whenever it thinks the A/C should be on, even if the compressor is actually getting shut off because either of the pressure switches is killing it. So when the compressor gets shut off, the idle goes up because there's no sanity-checking to see what RPM the engine is actually idling at.
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Jul 16, 2015 07:44
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Raluek posted:I'd agree with everyone saying that it sounds like idle mixture. But, if you have another coil you can jam in there to test with, that's easy and quick to do. Do you have a timing light? I'd make sure your base timing is right, too. Too low base timing (and thus relying on the mechanical advance getting you back into the "ok" zone) might have that problem, and I guess weak spark might have a similar effect? I dunno, man. Like they say, whenever your gut tells you it feels like a carb problem, it's timing. Whenever it tells you it's a timing problem, it's the carb. I finally manage to connect up with a vintage car nerd I work with, and he suggested the mix is wrong as well, and also said that the 1960s mechanic quick fix would be to just set the idle about 100 rpms above spec and leave it at that. This guy has CRAZY levels of knowledge about vintage Chevys. The first time I brought it to work, he saw it and walked over and outlayed the entire history of the model, as well as pointing out everything I would need to do to restore it to period-correctness. So I mentioned the problem, and he said checking vacuum and replacing the fuel filter were good first steps, but he said it's probably just the idle being set too low. He said it *could* be the coil, but didn't seem to give that theory much credence. So he mentioned an idle speed to shoot for. Uh...should I just assume that the tach on the dashboard is WILDLY inaccurate? Because at idle now the dash tach shows ~1000. As soon as you drop it into gear, it goes to ~800 and that's where it starts coughing. He was saying it should be set to like 450, and I can't see how that's correct if the dash tach is to be believed. I'm northwest of Atlanta. Basically Atlanta metro. It's cool tho. Again - I have a multimeter and the coil is super easy to get to. But really...adjusting the idle/mixture is easier anyway, so I will just try that first. Edit: forgot to answer your last question. If I hold the throttle barely open, it's fine. It's pretty much fine as long as the car is in motion more than 5mph or so.
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Jul 16, 2015 12:21
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I've had a can of ATE DOT 4 brake fluid sitting in my basement for a couple of years. It was opened, I used a little bit, and then closed it again. The basement is reasonably dry. Is it still good or is it only good for the mountain bike?
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Jul 16, 2015 13:34
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IOwnCalculus posted:Go read the AC thread but I had something similar happen with my NB and my MS3. Mazda's idle programming is so simple that it just automatically kicks the throttle open another x% whenever it thinks the A/C should be on, even if the compressor is actually getting shut off because either of the pressure switches is killing it. So when the compressor gets shut off, the idle goes up because there's no sanity-checking to see what RPM the engine is actually idling at. This is an incredibly concise and helpful answer, thank you very much!
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Jul 16, 2015 13:38
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bolind posted:I've had a can of ATE DOT 4 brake fluid sitting in my basement for a couple of years. It was opened, I used a little bit, and then closed it again. The basement is reasonably dry. Is it still good or is it only good for the mountain bike? Even if it hasn't absorbed moisture, it's not worth risking something as important as your vehicle braking system over twenty bucks worth of fluid.
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Jul 16, 2015 13:42
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Cthulhuite posted:Even if it hasn't absorbed moisture, it's not worth risking something as important as your vehicle braking system over twenty bucks worth of fluid. I second this opinion.
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Jul 16, 2015 13:45
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Cthulhuite posted:Even if it hasn't absorbed moisture, it's not worth risking something as important as your vehicle braking system over twenty bucks worth of fluid. 3rding Brake fluid is sooo cheap compared to death and still cheap conpared to other fluids. Better to replace it and use new.. my creed is to toss brake fluid after use.
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Jul 16, 2015 13:56
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HaB posted:So he mentioned an idle speed to shoot for. Uh...should I just assume that the tach on the dashboard is WILDLY inaccurate? Because at idle now the dash tach shows ~1000. As soon as you drop it into gear, it goes to ~800 and that's where it starts coughing. He was saying it should be set to like 450, and I can't see how that's correct if the dash tach is to be believed. 450 is probably the in gear number. The dash tach may not be wildly inaccurate, but it also operates on a large scale. I used something like this when setting idle RPM on my Qjet: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00062YUUS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_TV6PvbTQ0NTGG
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Jul 16, 2015 14:06
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IOwnCalculus posted:450 is probably the in gear number. The dash tach may not be wildly inaccurate, but it also operates on a large scale. I used something like this when setting idle RPM on my Qjet: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00062YUUS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_TV6PvbTQ0NTGG Ah okay. Where does one clip that gadget? ELI5  tater_salad posted:3rding AI Stupid Question Thread - Brake Fluid is Sooo Cheap Compared to Death
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Jul 16, 2015 14:25
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HaB posted:Ah okay. Where does one clip that gadget? ELI5 Same place the tach is hooked to, there are good directions in the box. I have that same model and although I rarely use it I'm glad I have it. His idle speed sounds low but probably right. Check the manual if you have it. My international has a 1/4" thick manual that is far more useful than any modern glove box manual. Idle speed is listed there.
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Jul 16, 2015 16:00
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scuz posted:Yep, this worked a treat, thanks dude. Should have expected that some things might need some coaxing since the truck has spent all 15 of its years in Minnesota. Ok, so never mind the stiff clutch; that's not a problem. What IS a problem is that the truck will sometimes seem to "slip" or briefly loose power to the wheels when I get it above ~2K. Is this the clutch going all the way bad? When it happens, I leave my foot on the gas and press the clutch in and the engine is sounding just fine. What other things can I do to diagnose this problem? I haven't had a chance to actually CHANGE the rear u-joint, just finally break it loose from the rear axle (I put it back together) and it was doing this long before the u-joint issue.
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Jul 16, 2015 16:08
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$566 Canadian a good price for a timing belt job (with pump, tensioner, etc) with driver side coolant flange replace? Seems like a good deal. 2003 Jetta.
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Jul 16, 2015 17:04
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Got all the way in and took the water pump out, but it looks fine so maybe it was just a stuck thermostat? Shucks, I guess the timing belt was about due anyway... Should I replace the water pump anyway, since I already have the old one out? 1996 subaru legacy ps ^^^ $566 sounds pretty reasonable right now, heh
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Jul 16, 2015 17:29
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Epitope posted:Got all the way in and took the water pump out, but it looks fine so maybe it was just a stuck thermostat? Shucks, I guess the timing belt was about due anyway... Yes replace the pump anyway.. if it's original it's time.. and do you really want to do that job all over again in 2 years?
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Jul 16, 2015 17:59
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tater_salad posted:Yes replace the pump anyway.. if it's original it's time.. and do you really want to do that job all over again in 2 years? But now I've already done it, it'll be easy next time! (Cheers mate)
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Jul 16, 2015 18:15
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Epitope posted:But now I've already done it, it'll be easy next time! Totally your choice.. Save $100 now and do it all again in ? amount of time, or spend the $100 now and ensure it'll be fine for the next 19 years.
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Jul 16, 2015 18:19
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Car: 2013 Vauhall Corsa (manual transmission) Issue: Car judders between 2000-2500 rpm, especially when in 4th gear Intermittent fault that happens more often when going up a hill Engine warning light has come on twice for a couple of minutes in the past 3 days but nothing has flagged up on diagnostics Cheers in advance for any pointers
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Jul 16, 2015 19:44
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freelop posted:Car: 2013 Vauhall Corsa (manual transmission) Maybe a misfire because it's happening in high load low RPM situations. Check ignition/plugs/fuel delivery. 2013 is too new to really be expected to have any of these issues but I don't know that model.
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Jul 16, 2015 20:25
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VelociBacon posted:Maybe a misfire because it's happening in high load low RPM situations. Check ignition/plugs/fuel delivery. 2013 is too new to really be expected to have any of these issues but I don't know that model.
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Jul 16, 2015 20:27
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I did as the thread suggested, got my 2000 Tacoma exhaust off, it actually came off pretty easy, some rust but nothing broke, just some rust flakes in my face. I found out I should have ordered the California Emissions version, had to return the exhaust, order the Cali version and it went on ok. I used a new gasket but could not get a good seal, and immediately got a P0420 CEL. I figured I either broke the cat, sensor or it was the exhaust puffing out of the flange. I cleared the code, and used some sealant with the gasket and the code has not returned. Torque tells me the ECU has run all the checks and all seems to be well. Don't assume your truck in VA, is built to federal emissions standards, cause mine wasn't. My other car is Cali as well. Who knew?
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Jul 16, 2015 21:51
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VelociBacon posted:Maybe a misfire because it's happening in high load low RPM situations. Check ignition/plugs/fuel delivery. 2013 is too new to really be expected to have any of these issues but I don't know that model. scuz posted:My Golf was doing similar things and it turned out (so far) to be a valve cover gasket that was leaking oil on to the spark plugs which was gunking them up enough to cause misfires. Don't cost nothin' to pop those bad boys out and make sure they're free from build-up and oil and look okay. Thanks for the suggestions, I've passed them on and hopefully things will get sorted out.
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Jul 16, 2015 22:06
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StormDrain posted:Same place the tach is hooked to, there are good directions in the box. I have that same model and although I rarely use it I'm glad I have it. 66 Corvette 327 idle is 550 per the manual. 450 might be right. Edit: To be stable it needs to be around 750. I don't know why. It's a stick. Godholio fucked around with this message at 03:17 on Jul 17, 2015 |
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Jul 17, 2015 01:52
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2009 Chevy Silverado - Black. LMG 5.3L V8 SFI (via the VIN) Engine. edit: about 92K on the clock, at 80K an evap vent solenoid was replaced per the paperwork I have found in the glovebox. This is my brother-in-law's truck and he is out of town so it's on me to fix it properly and hopefully in the most money efficient manner possible. I should be able to do the work but the issue may end up being time and I might have to take it to a mechanic anyway but I'm hoping to avoid that. Just threw a P0301 per my OBD II bluetooth scanner. Sitting at idle I can feel and hear the roughness.   No idea of course what the second image means but it was the only one I noticed in red. I can of course run any scans capable for torque to do but I don't know what may be useful. Internet tells me maybe O2 sensor but I know ya'll will have more detailed info, or I hope anyway. tangy yet delightful fucked around with this message at 02:10 on Jul 17, 2015 |
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Jul 17, 2015 02:04
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1994 Lexus SC400 I've got some rust on the rear quarters, the wheel arches have crumbled away and there's a big hole on the driver's side. How do I go about fixing this? Nobody will weld it without patch panels and I cannot for the life of me find patch panels, parts cars, junkyard heaps or fibreglass replacements. Lexus was almost $2000 for OEM quarters. Is there a resource online for finding patch panels for older cars, or fibreglass pieces without needing to get a stupid body kit?
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Jul 17, 2015 03:01
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Godholio posted:66 Corvette 327 idle is 550 per the manual. 450 might be right. Does yours have an aftermarket cam? Could be that. I'd say anything in the 450-750 range is acceptable. You'll know by ear if it's too high. Edit: VVV Mine ('65 Impala, roller 350, LT4 hot cam) idles at 650 in gear, 950 out of gear, so 1000 out of gear and 750 in gear isn't too out of line. But I bet once you get the idle mix set right, you can turn down the idle RPM a bit safely. HaB posted:I finally manage to connect up with a vintage car nerd I work with, and he suggested the mix is wrong as well, and also said that the 1960s mechanic quick fix would be to just set the idle about 100 rpms above spec and leave it at that. This guy has CRAZY levels of knowledge about vintage Chevys. The first time I brought it to work, he saw it and walked over and outlayed the entire history of the model, as well as pointing out everything I would need to do to restore it to period-correctness. So I mentioned the problem, and he said checking vacuum and replacing the fuel filter were good first steps, but he said it's probably just the idle being set too low. He said it *could* be the coil, but didn't seem to give that theory much credence. If it's fine just off idle, I'd definitely suspect the idle mixture. The reason I say that is because when you have the throttle open a little bit, most of the air is going to go through the main circuit (the jets) instead of through the idle mixture. I wouldn't mess with the idle speed (those are two separate settings) until you get the mix kind of close, then adjust speed, then adjust mix again. The idle mixture adjustment happens on the two long screws on the front of the carb that stick out and have springs on them; the idle speed happens where your throttle rod hooks onto the carb. There's a little screw that pushes the throttle open a little bit when it's "closed". Engine off, turn one of the idle mixture screws in until it stops; count how many turns it took. I usually do them half a turn at a time. Write down that number, then put it back where it was. Do the same for the other screw. If they're different numbers, set them both for the average of the two. Start the motor, and get it to idle. Work with one screw at a time; turn it counter-clockwise (richer) and listen to the engine. If you have a tach or a vacuum gauge, watch that needle rise. When the RPM stops rising (and/or the vacuum stops increasing), turn the screw the other way until it starts falling and then back it off a little (set it for maximum RPM/vacuum). Do the same for the other screw. Then turn it off, and do step 1 again (count how many turns, and set them for the average if they're different). Then turn down your idle RPM until it's where it sounds like it's not about to die in gear (warm!), and in the RPM range I mentioned earlier (those are in-gear numbers; it will be higher in park/neutral). Then check to see if your mixture settings are still correct. Turn them CCW a bit, if the RPM/vac increases, keep going. If it doesn't, turn them CW until it dips, then back them off a bit. Then balance them again! You get the picture. It's a real simple step, and usually doesn't take me more than 10 minutes or so. Probably took me just as long to write this out as it would take to do it. Maybe you can shanghai your old car friend into giving you a hand? I'm on the west coast, so I can't help you out myself. Hopefully I'm not over-explaining! Raluek fucked around with this message at 06:20 on Jul 17, 2015 |
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Jul 17, 2015 06:17
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Raluek posted:Does yours have an aftermarket cam? Could be that. It's definitely possible, that would explain the idle and the lower than expected vacuum (13.x, which I think points to the 350hp cam, iirc). But it doesn't have the other characteristics I'd expect...basically it otherwise behaves like a 327/300 with 110k miles. It also didn't have the other telltale signs of Bubba...had an still OE style distributor, no chrome or engine stickers added, no cooling system buffoonery, etc. The only odd thing was one of those visible in-line fuel filters in the clear container just before the carb. Some day I'll crack the engine open and see what the hell's going on, but from the outside it still looks unmolested so I'm keeping it that way. It doesn't bother me on the road, and the car loves to move, so whatever.
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Jul 17, 2015 08:07
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Raluek posted:Does yours have an aftermarket cam? Could be that. This is great info along with the rest of the great info. Ha - I'd be happy with you explaining like I'm 5 years old. I am car-stupid, but I am super eager to learn, so I've been reading everything I can get my hands on.
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Jul 17, 2015 11:44
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Car: 1986 Volvo 240 DL (with just 60k miles! Could probably drive this for the first 30 years of my driving life..) Issue 1: Driver side front headlight does not work. What is the cheapest way to diagnose the problem and get it fixed? Is there somewhere I can go for instructions on figuring out if it is just the bulb that's out? If it is a bulb, do I order it online and put it in? Should I just go to Auto Zone or somewhere similar and have them take a look, or will the try to rip me off? I live in Dallas so there are plenty of auto repair shops and whatever else. Issue 2: one of the little flimsy panels that covers a light on the back broke off. Can I pass inspection with this broken off? The bulb still functions perfectly. (and yes I am indeed ashamed for loving cars but knowing nothing about the easily-fixable one I drive)
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Jul 17, 2015 20:09
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1. Use a continuity test on a multimeter for the bulb. If the test shows a complete circuit, then you know that the filament is still good. If the bulb is still good but it still won't come on, then switch the multimeter over to DC volts and check out the socket. See if you get around 12 volts coming out of the socket. You can get headlight bulbs anywhere. 2. If the back bulb works, it should pass. You could just get some red transparent tape made for temporary signal repairs from any auto parts store to pass inspection, then order a replacement lens at your leisure. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 20:37 on Jul 17, 2015 |
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Jul 17, 2015 20:34
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Stupid double post
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Jul 17, 2015 20:35
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Winszton posted:Car: 1986 Volvo 240 DL (with just 60k miles! Could probably drive this for the first 30 years of my driving life..) It looks like your car uses an H3 bulb. Those are cheap enough that you can just throw parts at it. You can go to Auto Zone, get them to look up the bulb (there might be a reference book in the headlight aisle), and pop it in there. It looks like this video applies to you: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TSBu6OqurdI In the US, you will almost certainly pass inspection without the flimsy panel.
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Jul 17, 2015 20:36
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kid sinister posted:1. Use a continuity test on a multimeter for the bulb. If the test shows a complete circuit, then you know that the filament is still good. If the bulb is still good but it still won't come on, then switch the multimeter over to DC volts and check out the socket. See if you get around 12 volts coming out of the socket. I don't know where you live, but a taped up light doesn't pass inspection in Texas.
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Jul 17, 2015 20:43
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Was there any Toyota's Crowns made for the US market?
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Jul 17, 2015 21:50
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I'll preface my post with a disclaimer that, if I've done something dumb and/or stupid, I'm cool with being told that. Hopefully I'm not in the wrong spot here, but it IS automotive. I decided to be cheap but also try to marginally upgrade the sound in my 2001 Mazda 626. It has the factory double-DIN stereo and the original speakers; I did the speakers first, as the easier upgrade, and that went surprisingly well for me - despite the fact that apparently I have some strange connectors for the rear speakers that aren't the normal ones for the model year - and replacing the one rear speaker that apparently outright had a tear in it did wonders. The remaining issue was the head unit, though, since it had only a CD player and I hate having to cope with the vagaries of finding a free FM band that I can use any time I'm driving. I bought a really cheap head unit that had decent reviews (Pyle PLR34M), two pair of DIN tools, a Metra wiring harness advertised as fitting (70-7903) and a Metra installation multikit also supposed to fit (99-7505) and prepared myself for a Learning Experience. I'm now facing two hiccups on the way. The first came when matching up the Metra wiring harness with the connectors that came with the head unit. Most of it is really straightforward - obviously, "Front right speaker negative" goes to the same - but the car's wiring setup has two more connectors than the stereo's. Again, I can easily match "+12VAccessory/Switch", "Ground" and "+12VConstantPowerSupply" to each other, which leaves me with one last pairing to make. On the Pyle stereo, the last unpaired wire is labeled (on their diagrams) as "PowerAntenna/AmplifierTurnOn(Blue)". On the other hand, the wiring harness has three remaining wires: "Illumination" (Orange), "Amp Turn-On" (Blue w/White) and "Power Antenna" (Blue). What should I wire to what and what should I be doing with wires that don't have anything to connect to? The second issue: actually removing the original head unit. I took off the panels covering the holes easily enough and using a pair of DIN tools on the left is really easy - they lock into place without too much effort and I can tell I'm hitting the springs or clips because I can shift the thing on that side. The ones on the right don't catch, though, they just slide in way too far and I can't seem to find the sweet spot on that side to actually release the clips. Should I be finding a small-enough screwdriver to get in there and probe around or am I now facing a situation where I need to defer to a professional if I don't want to destroy something?
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Jul 18, 2015 00:55
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Nierbo posted:Was there any Toyota's Crowns made for the US market? All 'true' crowns (so not rebadged lexii) were RHD AFAIK.
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Jul 18, 2015 01:59
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Slavvy posted:All 'true' crowns (so not rebadged lexii) were RHD AFAIK. Funny topic, I just saw my first Crown last week (not in the US, though):  
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Jul 18, 2015 02:08
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2001 F-150 XLT, 5.4. OD Off light starts flashing after driving awhile, and it starts shifting harsh. 120k miles, poorly maintained. My code reader isn't pulling anything. Is there a way to pull codes from the transmission itself, or do I need to wait for OD Off to start flashing again?
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Jul 18, 2015 15:12
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