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I need to know about how to clean carburetors. A 24cc 2-stroke attached to a weed whacker idles but does not rev. Googling informs me that carburetors have a high-speed jet, which is likely clogged. I put SeaFoam through it. That helped with the idle but not the high speed. I've been told of SeaFoam, "If it doesn't work, use more" - but an entire can did not resolve the issue. (It idles well though). I don't want to take apart the carb if I don't have to, and if I have to, I don't want to take it apart any more than I have to. (Last time I took apart something small and delicate a spring flew away somewhere and now the thing that the spring was supposed to go back inside of doesn't work anymore). I'd rather leave the carb soaking in a bucket of something for a week than take it apart. Canadian Tire advertises carburator cleaners. Would they just further improve the idle or would putting them in an engine stand a better chance of cleaning the jet out than SeaFoam would?
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Jul 18, 2015 16:09
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some texas redneck posted:2001 F-150 XLT, 5.4. I'm pretty sure that's a limp mode, a shop might be able to pull a code with a scanner tool.
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Jul 18, 2015 16:12
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That's what I was afraid of. Nothing a generic scan tool could pull, right?
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Jul 18, 2015 18:30
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some texas redneck posted:That's what I was afraid of. Nothing a generic scan tool could pull, right?
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Jul 18, 2015 18:37
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DreadLlama posted:I need to know about how to clean carburetors. Here's what I would do: If you look at the carburetor, it should look like it has a bowl on the bottom with a little drain maybe. Drain the carburetor, then flip the whole thing upside down so the bowl is on the top. Remove the bowl. You should see a couple of (probably brass?) tubes going into the main body of the carburetor. These are the jets. Remove the bigger of the two (the main jet), take a thin copper wire, and poke it all the way through. If you have some carburetor cleaner, let the main jet soak in it for a while. That should keep you from having to disassemble too many things. Post pictures if you run into anything confusing; I'm assuming all carburetors are different, and I really only have experience with motorcycle carburetors.
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Jul 18, 2015 18:53
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^ Yep. The good thing is that even if you have to disassemble it, there aren't too many parts to worry about. There aren't nearly as many variables as you'll find on a car/truck carb.
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Jul 18, 2015 19:44
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Slavvy posted:All 'true' crowns (so not rebadged lexii) were RHD AFAIK. Fair enough. thanks.
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Jul 19, 2015 01:08
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I have a Volvo S60R which is notorious for rubbing problems at full steering lock. I put 10mm spacers on all 4 corners (to keep it the same front and rear) which fixed the rubbing issue with my winter tires. When I switched over to my summer tires I found they rubbed inside the fender, so I replaced the 10mm spacers in the front with 5mm. This turned out to be perfect, however getting the spacers off the front was almost impossible. I tried hammering, WD40 and a heat gun and none of it worked. I finally took it to my mechanic who got them off with an air chisel but destroyed them in the process. Now I'm due for a brake job (including rotors) and I'm worried that I'll have to destroy the rear spacers to get them off. Does anyone have any idea of how I might be able to get them off without wrecking them? I'd like to re-use them if I can. I was thinking of trying to heat them with a torch, but I've heard that can be bad for the hub if you get too much heat into it.
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Jul 19, 2015 16:22
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Soak in penetrating fluid, and use a chisel to evenly pry it away from the rotors. Next time use a grease or antisieze on the mating surface to help with disassembly for next time.
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Jul 19, 2015 16:32
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What came first? Ferrari Daytona or Shelby Daytona? The reason this isnt just a simple google search is the famous 70s cocainemobile may not have been the first to wear the badge. Thanks.
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Jul 19, 2015 20:06
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Bajaha posted:Soak in penetrating fluid, and use a chisel to evenly pry it away from the rotors. Next time use a grease or antisieze on the mating surface to help with disassembly for next time. The funny part is I sanded the surface of the rotor hat to remove any rust and used white lithium grease as recommended in the installation instructions. Didn't help though apparently.
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Jul 19, 2015 20:51
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Raluek posted:
Finally got time to mess with it a bit today in between having the interior all torn apart installing the stereo. So....using the vacuum tester on the only port on the carb I can find that gives me a reading at all. Jacking with the mixture screws I was able to get it to hold steady at 15". Which according to most things I see is low. One possible caveat, tho: The MityVac fitting doesn't seem to fit very tightly on my port, so the reading could be off. Using the assortment of adapters and things which came with the MityVac, I went with what fit the best. It seemed to be steady, like I said, just 15". Most things I'm reading say it should be between 16-22. My tach hasn't arrived yet, so I didn't want to mess with the idle screw too much, but I did finally chock the wheels on a level surface, put it in Reverse and adjusted it just enough so it barely stays alive in gear now. I will fool with it more once my tach shows up. Should I be worried about the low vacuum? Or should I wait until I find a vac tester which fits the port better?
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Jul 19, 2015 21:55
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It shouldn't be hard to find a hose to fit. I'm surprised none of the ones that came in the kit work; I've never had to buy anything special. Are you connecting the carb's hose to the mityvac, or a mityvac hose to the port on the carb/base plate? Option 2 is probably the best. Also, look around online to make sure you're using full manifold vacuum and not "ported" vacuum. Here is a good thing to read. If it's a little low that's not necessarily a bad thing, it depends on the reason.
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Jul 19, 2015 22:07
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MattD1zzl3 posted:What came first? Ferrari Daytona or Shelby Daytona? The ford precedes the Ferrari but both are preceded by a Studebaker: 
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Jul 19, 2015 23:13
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I'm shocked shelby took his greatest rival stealing his name lying down.
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Jul 20, 2015 00:59
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Winszton posted:Car: 1986 Volvo 240 DL First off, thanks for all the replies and advice you all gave me! Just got hired at a job so I haven't had time to come back to this. Anyways, turns out the bulb is actually not out, but just really really dim. Does this mean the issue is likely electrical wiring or something, and not just a bulb going out? I don't know if car bulbs are like regular ones in a lamp, where they're either working or done. I suppose the best thing to do is just head to autozone, grab the necessary bulb, install it and see if that fixed the issue?
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Jul 20, 2015 20:52
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Could be a lot of things, corroded wiring, bad contact in the socket, etc. If the bulb's not too expensive you could just get new and plop it in, but if that doesn't fix it it's multimeter time. You'll most likely read full voltage with the bulb out/connector unplugged (I don't know how that car is set up); what you need to to is read the voltage while the bulb is installed and turned on (thin needles/push pins are good for this, you can stick them in the back of the connector to contact the terminals without poking through the wire insulation). There should be full 12V across the connector. E: Also make sure someone didn't just slather dielectric grease in there for "protection". My 91 Blazer had hosed up hazards and turn signals; one socket was packed full of the poo poo. Cleaned it out and magically everything worked right again.
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Jul 20, 2015 21:40
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Where should a multimeter (if needed) be bought? TBH I don't even know what one is, thus the Stupid Questions thread. Technically my dad is paying for this fix, and doesn't mind me taking it to a shop to have it done. So while I would like to be frugal, I also know nothing about fixing cars, need it repaired fairly soon, and my miserly dad won't hurt from the shop's bill much. (Eccentric 72 y/o dude... drives an Odyssey and has owned 5 old 240s to get us teenage/20-somethings from A to B) Tomorrow I'm going to replace the bulb with one from Autozone, see if that works, and if it doesn't look towards my next step.
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Jul 20, 2015 23:53
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For low voltage DC automotive stuff pretty much anything will work (even the $5 Harbor Freight multimeter,) if you buy something that cheap just don't expect it to be much more accurate than ballpark and I would keep it the hell away from anything that could kill you. e: a multimeter is a diagnostic tool that measures electrical values - voltage, resistance, continuity, etc.
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Jul 21, 2015 00:07
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MattD1zzl3 posted:I'm shocked shelby took his greatest rival stealing his name lying down. The animosity wasn't much between carrol shelby and enzo ferrari iirc, It was Henry Ford the 2nd that got his panties in a twist thanks to the italian stallion. Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 00:40 on Jul 21, 2015 |
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Jul 21, 2015 00:36
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I guess the A/T thread was the wrong place to ask this because I'm neither asking what car to buy nor if it's worth the money so I'm re-posting it here:Necc0 posted:I don't know what came over me but I decided this morning that I want to trade my Mustang for a similarly priced / year / mileage Mini Cooper. Some research on kbb & craigslist is telling me that this is a realistic goal. My only concern is that I've heard Mini's are notoriously unreliable so I have a few questions: Update since I wrote that: I test drove one right after work today. I'm not gonna lie it was a fun little car and reminded me a ton of my old '88 Celica which I miss dearly. The owner needs to sell it asap because he's leaving for another country in two weeks and as such has priced it pretty fairly below the kbb price so I don't even need to haggle him much. Engine looked practically brand new and the engine made no weird noises at all. Necc0 fucked around with this message at 01:22 on Jul 21, 2015 |
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Jul 21, 2015 01:19
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some texas redneck posted:2001 F-150 XLT, 5.4. To follow up, we got some hopefully good news. Stepdad did take it to a transmission shop - they're 99% sure it's electrical, it's throwing codes for the transmission being too hot. Even when it's stone cold.
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Jul 21, 2015 04:40
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Was looking up info on rod knock, found this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JIOdS7XbHys Am I missing something or is that an incredibly stupid way to go about this? He's got arcs flying and at 1:15 in particular got them coming off the bolts for the valve cover. 
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Jul 21, 2015 05:23
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Ignoranus posted:I'll preface my post with a disclaimer that, if I've done something dumb and/or stupid, I'm cool with being told that. Hopefully I'm not in the wrong spot here, but it IS automotive. I decided to be cheap but also try to marginally upgrade the sound in my 2001 Mazda 626. Did I post this in the wrong thread or am I just being too impatient with waiting for an answer? 
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Jul 21, 2015 05:24
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Parts Kit posted:Was looking up info on rod knock, found this: It tickles pretty good if you get yourself.
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Jul 21, 2015 05:36
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Parts Kit posted:Was looking up info on rod knock, found this: Do this at work all the time, if you aren't an idiot you won't hurt yourself or the car.
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Jul 21, 2015 07:16
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Ignoranus posted:Did I post this in the wrong thread or am I just being too impatient with waiting for an answer? Appears as though a 626 expert hasn't read this lately...I dunno. Does your car have a separate amp and a power antenna? If not you wouldn't have anything to connect it to, so leave it alone. The illumination wire I can't remember. As far as physically removing the thing, check youtube for a guide. I don't know anything about that car so I couldn't tell you anything specific. There is a car audio megathread that might get you some better info.
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Jul 21, 2015 08:53
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two_beer_bishes posted:Appears as though a 626 expert hasn't read this lately...I dunno. Ah, drat. I knew there had to be a separate thread for that but I didn't see it before now, thanks! I'll just go ahead and crosspost there. Sorry to be a pain.
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Jul 21, 2015 09:45
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Question for those who have done both: Replace control arms or replace just the bushings? I don't have a big, fancy press, just a bench vice. Subquestion: I'm trying to diagnose why my 2002 Golf's steering pulls in one direction under acceleration. It will eventually settle back to straight under acceleration, but if I let off the gas, it will settle back to straight right away. Just replaced the struts, springs, and mounts in the front and the problem has remained. All that crap needed to be replaced anyway, just wish it would have solved this problem, too. scuz fucked around with this message at 15:32 on Jul 21, 2015 |
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Jul 21, 2015 14:37
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scuz posted:Question for those who have done both: Replace control arms or replace just the bushings? I don't have a big, fancy press, just a bench vice. If you don't have a press then your life will generally be much easier buying a loaded control arm. And depending on the manufacturer, that can actually end up being the cheaper option anyway.
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Jul 21, 2015 15:54
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Molten Llama posted:If you don't have a press then your life will generally be much easier buying a loaded control arm.
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Jul 21, 2015 17:12
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I'm planning on taking the wheel off my Saab to give the hubs a de-rusting. Obviously, using the saab scissor jack is a shortcut to a sore wrist and potentially a car on the foot, so I am looking for a trolley jack. Would you feel comfortable with just the jack and the wheel on its side under the sill, or should I get axle stands as well? spog fucked around with this message at 17:24 on Jul 21, 2015 |
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Jul 21, 2015 17:22
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spog posted:I'm planning on taking the wheel off my Saab to give the hubs a de-rusting. Always use stands. If you don't have a stand, use one anyway.
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Jul 21, 2015 17:27
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Astonishing Wang posted:Always use stands. If you don't have a stand, use one anyway. You make a good point. I was trying to avoid the extra cost/storage space. Now I find that I can get a reputable brand for £13, so I would be a moron not to get them, even if I ebay/throw them away afterwards. Short wheelbase trolley jack? Okay? http://www.halfords.com/motoring-travel/tools-diy/trolley-jacks-axle-stands/halfords-2-tonne-trolley-jack-short-wheel-base http://www.halfords.com/motoring-travel/tools-diy/trolley-jacks-axle-stands/halfords-2-tonne-trolley-jack EDIT: Answering my own question here: SWB one has a Lifting range 14 - 34cm (Approx) Standard is Lifting range 13-38cm (Approx) given that the axle stands have a min height of 30cm, that extra 4cm of lift seems worth it. http://www.halfords.com/motoring-travel/tools-diy/trolley-jacks-axle-stands/halfords-2-tonne-axle-stands spog fucked around with this message at 17:46 on Jul 21, 2015 |
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Jul 21, 2015 17:31
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A general OBDII question: has anyone experienced a situation where their car is CEL free for extended periods, but after letting someone else drive CELs appear out of the ether? I have had this more than a few times with my truck. In one case the previous driver got them, then when I took over ownership they vanished. Any ideas?
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Jul 21, 2015 18:52
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Tool chat -- I just got a jointer with a table that has some rust on it. It's superficial rust, most of it goes away with a quick sanding sponge, but it'll need a bit more to get it back to perfect condition. What's the best way to do that? Flapper wheel on a drill? Hand doing it with a sponge? Something else?
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Jul 21, 2015 20:02
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EVERYWHERE 
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Mercury: Maybe your driving habits don't force it into test modes where it is likely to fail? That's kinda odd all the same. Meatpimp: I'd try any of the chemical rust removers but I don't know how you'd get something like Evaporust to stay put on a table surface. I think there might be a more gel-like option though?
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Jul 21, 2015 21:48
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meatpimp posted:Tool chat -- I just got a jointer with a table that has some rust on it. It's superficial rust, most of it goes away with a quick sanding sponge, but it'll need a bit more to get it back to perfect condition. I assume it's steel, I would use a flapper wheel or even a reciprocating sander with light grit and careful pressure.
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Jul 21, 2015 21:55
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IOwnCalculus posted:Meatpimp: I'd try any of the chemical rust removers but I don't know how you'd get something like Evaporust to stay put on a table surface. I think there might be a more gel-like option though?
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Jul 21, 2015 21:58
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This is probably a really stupid question but where the hell do I buy reasonably priced wiper blades? Just the blades. I'm in Australia. So far I know I can get a pair of ??? branded ones from Repco for about $18, or a pack of 50 Bosch blades for $40 on eBay. Wipers dry rot, turn to stone or get abraded by dirt, or perma-folded to one side from disuse here way before they wear out. I only need a cheapie for the rear window as it was an inspection failure item because it's folded to one side. I'm kind of sick of buying wiper blades as a barely used consumable.
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Jul 21, 2015 23:18
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