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Yeah, 00-04 and 05+ are the hosed years for simple rear suspension. Redid the entire rear end in my Baja (same setup as yours) and without lots of time and access to a press I would be slitting my wrists. Paying someone is a much better option in this case.
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Jul 22, 2015 22:44
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I got bajawrx all the rear bushings for his car, which has the same suspension, through whiteline. Think they make every bushing, runs a little over $300 in parts. The downside is that they aren't split bushings like the TIC parts for the older cars so they have to get pressed in as well. You could possibly pull all the arms, get the bushings out yourself, and then bring them somewhere with a press. Or get one of the cheap harbor freight presses and tool kits. They are all pretty small and don't take a huge amount of force to get out. Front of the trailing arm will be the biggest pain in the rear end because it's one big piece that includes the upright. One option would be the adjustable LCA and toe link kit. I think it's something like $400 but would save a lot of labor. Still leaves the upper arm and front trailing bushing though.
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Jul 22, 2015 22:51
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jamal posted:You could possibly pull all the arms, get the bushings out yourself, and then bring them somewhere with a press. Or get one of the cheap harbor freight presses and tool kits. They are all pretty small and don't take a huge amount of force to get out. Front of the trailing arm will be the biggest pain in the rear end because it's one big piece that includes the upright. This was my initial plan before I realized just how many drat bushings there are. Even with that whiteline combo kit there are still a bunch of bushings that would need pressing, so I think I'll just have the shop do it. With 190k on the clock even OEM replacements should be way better than what's there now.
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Jul 22, 2015 23:21
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Atleast in Brisbane, shops get prety annoyed if you bring them arms you've already pulled off yourself. As far a as a lot of them are concerned, if you aren't going to pay them to do the whole thing, you can gtfo
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Jul 23, 2015 01:38
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Hey so I'm the proud owner of a 2006 Forester X with 83k on the clock. It came into my possession about 4 months ago for a very decent price since, well, it's coming up on all the major maintenance milestones and the interior isn't phenomenal. I took it in for regular service at a Subaru dealership today, and their primary concern is now, of course, the head gaskets. They said they're leaking oil now. What should I be looking at with regards to repair cost on these? I was quoted $2800. That's parts + labor. I saw the note in the OP about specifying the MLS gaskets, is this likely to be something the dealership will charge more for? I have a Seal & Gasket warranty from the (third party) dealer I purchased it from, so I'm not too worried about the cost but I do want the job done right. I drive very little, maybe 4 miles per weekday total to/from work (I ride my bike when it's nice enough). I've put about 500 miles on it since buying it, which includes one long unplanned trip that I opted to drive my car for instead of my girlfriend's Mazda 3. Is this something I could kick down the line a bit in light of that assuming I check the oil on the regular or will it cause a sudden failure one day? Solanumai fucked around with this message at 05:56 on Jul 26, 2015 |
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Jul 25, 2015 23:30
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Anyone got spare bits for 1999 Foresters laying around? I need passenger side headlight and foglight assemblies, got into a fight with a new Outback yesterday and lost...
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Jul 25, 2015 23:46
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What tires do you dudes in the hot parts of the world run? I have no idea about tires and I don't really want semi slicks cause I have to drive in heavy rain/daily drive so semis would be a waste/kill me. That's what the internet says I need, just like it says I need $200 a corner minimum rotors. I just want a good street tire that will grip well when I go for a mang and be fine when I have to drive in fhe wet. underage at the vape shop fucked around with this message at 01:10 on Jul 26, 2015 |
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Jul 26, 2015 01:08
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Lord of Garbagemen posted:So i have a question for jamal or bull. I am working on a ej255 turbo and doing a timing belt. every time i set timing and pull the tensioner pin roll it over get the crank back to tdc, check the marks and the drivers side cams are a like a a half tooth to a tooth retarded, if i hold the crank and turn the intake cam both of them set to the marks and every thing looks set. So i dug into this and it occurs when i pull the tensioner pin and rotate the tensioner it eats some slack and the cam doesn't move. I have set it like 3 times now all with the same results, and i haven't had this occur before on a suby t belt replacement. So long story short we buttoned it up a tooth off, got it running and it misfires under load. the code is intermitent po302 (cyl 2 misfire). I am having the owner swap coils then injectors. My question is this would timing affect all cylinders under load or is it possible to get to get only the cyl 2 misfire?
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Jul 26, 2015 02:02
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Shere posted:Hey so I'm the proud owner of a 2006 Forester XT with 83k on the clock. It came into my possession about 4 months ago for a very decent price since, well, it's coming up on all the major maintenance milestones and the interior isn't phenomenal. The headgasket advice in the OP applies to the N/A EJ25, not the turbo engines like the one in your car. IIRC the only gaskets for the turbo motors are MLS, so no worries there but it seems odd they'd be leaking at 83k miles. From everything I've heard the turbo cars don't really have headgasket issues the way the N/A cars do. Are you sure they meant headgaskets and not valve cover gaskets? I know those get cooked on the turbo cars by the heat from the exhaust manifold, but if it's those then $2800 seems very high to me.
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Jul 26, 2015 05:00
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Err, sorry, mine isn't the XT, just the X. I wanted the XT and my brain typed that extra letter as some sort of wishful Freudian slip. So yeah, no turbo. They definitely specified the head gaskets. Sorry about that. Solanumai fucked around with this message at 05:53 on Jul 26, 2015 |
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Jul 26, 2015 05:47
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A dealer probably won't give your those gaskets even if you ask. I would suggest finding a good independent Subaru mechanic. It'll cost you less and they'll probably do a better job. Can you tell I don't like Subaru dealership service departments?
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Jul 26, 2015 05:55
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:What tires do you dudes in the hot parts of the world run? I have no idea about tires and I don't really want semi slicks cause I have to drive in heavy rain/daily drive so semis would be a waste/kill me. That's what the internet says I need, just like it says I need $200 a corner minimum rotors. I use sets of hankook rs3/v2 and bridgestone re11a all year; the re11's can be really sketchy in the wet when you want them to be, but otherwise they're fine. Both communicate very well and double as my goto autox/hpde tires, until I finally switch to r comps this summer.
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Jul 26, 2015 06:48
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I need them to be good in heavy rain, my city is known for its daily afternoon summer storms so I'm really looking for good not semi slicks. I've heard kuhmo ku39s are supposed to be good but i really have no idea.
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Jul 26, 2015 07:39
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:What tires do you dudes in the hot parts of the world run? I have no idea about tires and I don't really want semi slicks cause I have to drive in heavy rain/daily drive so semis would be a waste/kill me. That's what the internet says I need, just like it says I need $200 a corner minimum rotors. I just went from Dunlop ZIIs on my Miata to BFG Sportcomp 2s and I like them pretty well. Not as much grip clearly but the sport comps are really impressive in the wet. I made the change from the fast tires to the sport comps because of price, and I'm not running my Miata in autocross right now. (Plus I only got 7.5k miles out of the ZII)
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Jul 26, 2015 12:25
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:What tires do you dudes in the hot parts of the world run? I have no idea about tires and I don't really want semi slicks cause I have to drive in heavy rain/daily drive so semis would be a waste/kill me. That's what the internet says I need, just like it says I need $200 a corner minimum rotors. re003s are a really nice mix of price/fun. I had 002 on my wrx and they did a pretty good job. The 003s are better again and are doing really well on the aw11. A Saucy Bratwurst posted:I need them to be good in heavy rain, my city is known for its daily afternoon summer storms so I'm really looking for good not semi slicks. I've heard kuhmo ku39s are supposed to be good but i really have no idea. Pretty good in the rain. They also held the back end in in the aw11 when I took it off road today....
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Jul 26, 2015 12:54
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I really don't like the clutch feel in my 06 Saabaru, especially after driving in the Miata all summer. I'm about to start driving a lot more stop and go traffic and would like to do what I can to improve it. What are my options? I'm looking at a stainless steel line replacement right now but don't know how noticeable that will be or if there's anything else I should tackle.
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Jul 26, 2015 22:38
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Have you ever bled it? All the hydraulic-clutch Subarus I've owned have had brutal amounts of air trapped in the system from the morons who swapped the clutches.
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Jul 26, 2015 22:39
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Nope, it's on the original clutch.
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Jul 26, 2015 22:41
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Finally got the timing belt done and just in time too. When the tensioner came out it basically just fell apart. The only thing holding the bearings inside it was the belt tension itself. Gonna go buy a lottery ticket now.
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Jul 27, 2015 00:47
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My brother wants to mount a hitch for bikes on his 2013 crosstrek. The one he wants requires enlarging a hole in the frame to make it fit. Due to that requirement I am voting no. Is that being overly cautious in an area that gets snow and salts it roads? The holes are right near the exhaust in an area likely to see lots of road spray.
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Jul 27, 2015 21:23
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Huge red flag. Rust will destroy it in short order, even proper painting and rust proofing would still make be nervous. What about getting the factory hitch and a bike attachment for that?
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Jul 27, 2015 21:59
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From what I hear the factory one is much more money. Like 700 vs 150.
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Jul 27, 2015 22:02
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Mercury Ballistic posted:From what I hear the factory one is much more money. Like 700 vs 150. Spend the extra $550 now rather than $2k at the body shop in 5 years to repair the frame.
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Jul 27, 2015 22:14
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My thoughts were roof storage. Either way, I am glad to hear drilling the frame is a bad idea and not me being overly cautious.
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Jul 27, 2015 22:21
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Roof rack or an old school strap-on rack for the hatch.
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Jul 27, 2015 22:41
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This it the hitch I have on my Crosstrek and I'm a big fan: http://torkliftcentral.com/trailer-hitch-and-towing/ecohitch/subaru/xv-crosstrek/2013-2014-subaru-xv-crosstrek-ecohitch-invisi I think they had to drill an existing hole larger to do part of the install but IDGAF.
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Jul 28, 2015 05:50
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Lord of Garbagemen posted:So long story short we buttoned it up a tooth off, got it running and it misfires under load. the code is intermitent po302 (cyl 2 misfire). I am having the owner swap coils then injectors. My question is this would timing affect all cylinders under load or is it possible to get to get only the cyl 2 misfire? So i know you all have been chomping at the bit and firing off suggestions at what it could be.........................cyl 2 spark plug had cracked and the ceramic was seperating. Put a new one in car drives fine, no p0021/etc cam over advanced.
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Jul 28, 2015 16:01
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So I found out I actually work with the guy who owns AZPinstalls in kenilworth, NJ. After a chat ended up having them do a killer b pickup and tray, dw65c, defi oil temp and pressure in an SMY cluster. Couldnt be happier with these guys, if you live in the area definitely check them out. They do top notch work, super easy to deal with and they have a BRZ track car which is probably the loudest thing Ive ever heard! E: They also did a fantastic alignment TheFargate fucked around with this message at 00:58 on Jul 29, 2015 |
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Jul 29, 2015 00:55
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WRXQuest 2015 continues... I just got a line on a 2013 WRX Premium (non-hatch, which makes me very sad, but I am having no luck finding those) for ~23K. I'm looking for a mechanic in the area to take it to, but it looks good from service history and a cursory inspection/testdrive. The thing only had 34,000 miles on it because the guy basically just drove to the airport and back. No engine part replacement, either. [snip dumb poo poo about headgaskets because I suck at reading] What stuff should tell the mechanic to look out for, and am I getting ripped off? e: I forgot to mention it has a roof rack with bike+board attachments included, so that might explain a small price hike. SilentW fucked around with this message at 00:19 on Jul 30, 2015 |
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Jul 29, 2015 23:36
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SilentW posted:WRXQuest 2015 continues... Reread the OP about head gaskets.
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Jul 30, 2015 00:10
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Slow is Fast posted:Reread the OP about head gaskets.  Thank you.
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Jul 30, 2015 00:19
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I just swapped out the rear diff bushings and pitch stop mount on my 05 LGT with new poly bits and holeeee crap it's the best thing I've done to this car. I used to miss a couple shifts every drat day and all of a sudden the action is smooth and predictable. The 2.5k stutter is also drastically reduced now. If the old bushings didn't have 125k miles on them it probably wouldn't have been this noticeable but it's seriously made me love this car again.
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Jul 30, 2015 01:45
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SilentW posted:WRXQuest 2015 continues... Have him check the compression. Also, check the bolts around the turbo/downpipe area. If you see any marks, you'll know it had a modified downpipe added, and therefore it was stage 2, so it was probably driven hard, despite what the PO says If everything's OK, then it'll be a solid purchase.
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Jul 30, 2015 13:17
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2000 Subaru Outback Base - the AC only vents air from the front vents. Everything else works great including the temp control, AC / Air recycle control, and the speed of the air but it only blows air from the front vents. Even if I change the knob to the foot vents / window vents - air only comes from the front. What's the issue here?
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Jul 30, 2015 18:58
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Broken cable? Is the selector super easy to rotate? Could be mice nesting in the vents like I had but the smell gave it away.
Mercury Ballistic fucked around with this message at 21:19 on Jul 30, 2015 |
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Jul 30, 2015 21:12
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Pop the face off the dash, and perhaps also pull the radio, and take a look at what's going on with the linkage to that selector. A lot of those parts are plastic; I wouldn't be surprised if something snapped or if the linkage just fell out of place.
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Jul 30, 2015 21:18
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Yours should be electric for the hvac doors, might have burnt out the servo that moves it, or the circuitry in the controller might be fried. Try moving the knob and take a flashlight to look at the servo to see if it's moving. Should be able to see it if you look from the driver's foot well and contort yourself to look up from the floor pan into the center consol. Should be accessible from there (God help you if it isn't, it's a huge pain to remove the whole blend box) Try replacing the hvac controls with a junkyard unit, should be cheap enough and it could solve your issue.
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Jul 31, 2015 03:56
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So my room mate totaled his lovely v6 mustang and is looking at Subarus. I don't know poo poo about foresters. Is there any reason not to look at this? http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/5149879279.html He would rather a 5 speed but the auto isn't a deal breaker for him.
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Jul 31, 2015 20:44
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Can't hurt to take a look at it in person. Ask to see the maintenance records, too. One thing really stands out: That odd wheel. Okay, so the original wheel was damaged and replaced. How was it damaged? Was anything else damaged at the same time? Was it being driven on the spare? If so, how long? That could gently caress up the diffs. As always, the best piece of advice is to have an actual mechanic look at it.
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Jul 31, 2015 23:00
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I would definitely check to make sure all four tires are the same kind, size, and tread wear level. All four tires must be pretty drat close to the same outside diameter. If they're not, the AWD system will get upset and eventually lead to a center differential failure.
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Jul 31, 2015 23:19
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