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 Look what arrived in the mail today! Oh man I can't wait to use them. There are two expanding collets sitting on top. I had never heard of those before.
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Jul 24, 2015 11:25
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I don't know what that is, but I think I want a box now.
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Jul 25, 2015 01:57
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immoral_ posted:I don't know what that is, but I think I want a box now. some kind of collet chuck is my assumption https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Collet
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Jul 25, 2015 02:33
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Looks like an ER32 collet chuck for workholding, it doesn't seem appropriate for tool holding. I'm curious what made you decide on ER rather than 5C. The collapsible range and wide availability, I'd guess? The disadvantage I see to the ERs is that you can't hold short parts because they collapse evenly along the whole length. 5Cs collapse just at the end so you only need 1/8-1/4" to get a decent amount of holding force. Expanding collets are amazing, too, really useful. Where are those from?
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Jul 25, 2015 02:44
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Karia posted:Looks like an ER32 collet chuck for workholding, it doesn't seem appropriate for tool holding. I'm curious what made you decide on ER rather than 5C. The collapsible range and wide availability, I'd guess? The disadvantage I see to the ERs is that you can't hold short parts because they collapse evenly along the whole length. 5Cs collapse just at the end so you only need 1/8-1/4" to get a decent amount of holding force. I use expanding collets to hold a few different parts at work that would normally be impossible to hold. They're pretty cool.
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Jul 25, 2015 08:53
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They are ER32 collets from Beall Tools. I am using them on my Sherline lathe, so in terms of collet options, there aren't many. The Sherline set of collets is extremely limited and expensive. I will be holding the workpiece in them, not the tools, although I considered using them to hold any endmills that have funny shank sizes, since the Sherline only uses 3/8th shank endmills.
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Jul 25, 2015 14:14
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Brekelefuw posted:They are ER32 collets from Beall Tools. Makes sense to me, 5Cs are probably too big for that, and you'll get a ton more capacity and range than Sherline says for theirs (5/16" capacity with 0.001" clamping range.) Seems like the right choice for your application. Enjoy your new toys!
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Jul 25, 2015 16:33
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Don't buy expanding collets, make your own. Drill and tap for a pipe thread plug, turn the OD to the desired size, take it to the saw and cut some slots. You can do the same for OD chucking with a good pipe clamp.
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Jul 25, 2015 17:36
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oxbrain posted:Don't buy expanding collets, make your own. Drill and tap for a pipe thread plug, turn the OD to the desired size, take it to the saw and cut some slots. Fine for a backyard shop, but unless you're drat good with a saw qc will be a nightmare due to unequal clamping force. E: also, got my first piece of flight hardware approved for fab. I even get some hands on time with it for the more tightly controlled tolerances. Yeah, space stuff owns.
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Jul 25, 2015 19:27
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oxbrain posted:Don't buy expanding collets, make your own. Drill and tap for a pipe thread plug, turn the OD to the desired size, take it to the saw and cut some slots. The expanding collets are $13 each.
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Jul 25, 2015 23:30
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Random Number posted:Fine for a backyard shop, but unless you're drat good with a saw qc will be a nightmare due to unequal clamping force. Nah, put a groove in it behind the saw cut tabs and they'll bend easily enough to conform to the shape. When you skim cut the diameter after sawing it will take care of any mismatch. As you can see, I'm a wizard on the bandsaw.  This was for a turbopump shaft spacer with ~.030" finished wall thickness and +/-.0002" on the ID, OD, height, and flatness.  Brekelefuw posted:The expanding collets are $13 each. That's not bad then. Just something to keep in mind if you ever need a size you don't have.
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Jul 26, 2015 01:00
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oxbrain posted:Nah, put a groove in it behind the saw cut tabs and they'll bend easily enough to conform to the shape. When you skim cut the diameter after sawing it will take care of any mismatch. Lol at those tolerance on a shaft spacer. I feel for you. Your process description is legit though, I personally would just not be very comfortable holding those tolerances in that setup.
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Jul 26, 2015 18:55
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Good enough for a Ford Festiva, but even to my layman's eye, that halfway-through wrong cut is kinda worrisome for a LeMons application, much less anything involving the word "turbo".
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Jul 27, 2015 06:01
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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oxbrain posted:Nah, put a groove in it behind the saw cut tabs and they'll bend easily enough to conform to the shape. When you skim cut the diameter after sawing it will take care of any mismatch. How much manual adjustment was required for each part? I can't really see that repeating to that tolerance, I'd think you'd have to indicate them in if they're multiple ops. I could easily be wrong, though, maybe it can do it.
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Jul 27, 2015 11:55
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Random Number posted:Lol at those tolerance on a shaft spacer. I feel for you. I should say it's a shim to set turbine spacing. The tolerance is a little excessive, but it's easier to make them than argue. Karia posted:How much manual adjustment was required for each part? I can't really see that repeating to that tolerance, I'd think you'd have to indicate them in if they're multiple ops. I could easily be wrong, though, maybe it can do it. Each one takes some tapping around to get it dialed in perfectly. We're taking a really light cut and there's enough contact area that the clamping force is really minimal. Designing and making a fixture that would repeat first time would take longer than making these. There is another fixture to finish the outside and reverse face before this operation. They're very time consuming to make. Maybe 6-7 hours of labor per part. Luckily we don't have to make too many. I've got boxes of fixtures like this. The fixture itself isn't flight hardware so it doesn't need to look pretty.
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Jul 27, 2015 17:58
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Any of you guys have one of these 4x6 bandsaws? I bought this one like 5-6 years ago and left it in the garage until Sunday. I got it cheap from some dude with no sawblade on it. Turns out it's a huge piece of poo poo, the alignment is terrible, the adjuster bolt to angle to top wheel sucks rear end, and the washer that keeps the wheel's bearing from falling out of the housing concaved itself after I had it tight enough to actually work (you can see that on the left there). Also I have cut my shins on the feet like four times moving it, so I hated it already. I guess it was good enough to cut some 4140 round rod for me, so gently caress it. I needed the little platforms for these things:  Friend of mine asked me to make some "Beersbie" poles, which I had never heard of. You balance a beer bottle on the platform after sticking the pole in the ground, and try to knock it off with a frisbee, other person has to try to catch it before it hits the ground or something. Sounds fun. But, to go back a couple weeks to painting chat, I thought I would do a little write up on my "fancy" method. First, grind it all off with a brush.  Give it a coat of 10:1 thinner to paint. Cover the whole thing, don't give a poo poo about runs or drips or anything. (I checked, the stuff I use is oil based, just plain gloss black tremclad from a little can.)   See how there's extra here on the edge? Give no fucks.  Let that dry a bit, it won't take too long because it's mostly thinner. Now, sand it down with a high-grit sponge or paper. Don't take all the black paint off, just get the high spots, including all the drips and such.  Goes really well on intentional indentations.  Then clearcoat the bitch.  Gets some really neat surface details.  This one's kinda fuzzy but you get the idea.  Had some crazy storms around my house on Sunday while doing all this. Walking around the yard with 6' iron bars in hand during a lightning storm is always a good time. Southwest:  Northwest:  East:  Northeast a little later: 
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Jul 28, 2015 04:52
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Slung Blade posted:Any of you guys have one of these 4x6 bandsaws? I bought this one like 5-6 years ago and left it in the garage until Sunday. I got it cheap from some dude with no sawblade on it. I've gone through three of these over the years, and for a piece of junk, I kind of love it. You really do have to fiddle with them and shim them in places but once they get set it's a great form factor, super versatile, convenient, plus HF has ok bimetal blades in stock locally in a pinch. There's no redeeming the stand, make a new one with good casters and 50-60 pounds of ballast. The vertical table is similarly junk, and merits a replacement if you are using it to cut curves or angles more acute than the vise can accomodate. Blade alignment is horrible because you are adjusting 3 of 6 degrees of freedom with one lovely bolt clamping it down, but once you get it dialed in it's good to go. I've been prototyping a little adaptor to allow independent, indexable adjustments, but keep putting it off because in general it's close enough for roughing stuff out - though actually if I was trying to make little pucks like that I'd probably go ahead with it.
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Jul 28, 2015 17:06
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Yeah they're a ubiquitous little job sold under loads of different names. Google 6x4 bandsaw mods to see what people have done to improve them. I got one from the for sale ads and with a bit of fettling it has served me well. I cut stops at 30 and 45 degrees and made a new stand. I was going to make a suds tray and use a fish tank pump or coolant but never got round to it.
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Jul 28, 2015 18:25
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As soon as my next paycheque rolls in I'm thinking of getting one of those 4x6s, that and a not-totally-bottom-barrel welder will go a huge way in letting me work on larger-than-jewellery-scale stuff in my home shop. e: Speaking of which, I've been commissioned to do 3 3x3' repousse copper panels for a patio screen. Time to make a shitload of new tools!! Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 23:03 on Jul 28, 2015 |
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Jul 28, 2015 23:00
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I have a chop saw for rough cuts and a portaband for fine cuts, but neither is super accurate. I used some big horizontal bandsaws like that one when I was at the Crucible: they had a couple, one was at least 40 years old and worked like a dream, the other was more crappy and required a lot of babysitting. The good one had a liquid lube feed which really helped a lot.
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Jul 28, 2015 23:19
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http://www.swagoffroad.com/SWAG-V40-Portaband-Table_p_63.html I picked up one of these and mount my portaband to it. It works surprisingly well. I'm not cutting huge stock usually, but I used it for everything over the past year and it has been great. I even used it to cute my square tube which I built my grinder with.
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Jul 29, 2015 03:30
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Did most of you guys/gals get into this starting with small or big stuff? What tools would one need to start fabrication of smaller metal jewelry.
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Jul 29, 2015 04:25
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goodness posted:Did most of you guys/gals get into this starting with small or big stuff? In my opinion, big dimension critical poo poo gives you the skill necessary to handle tiny fiddly poo poo, but you can totally jump in wherever. I don't do jewelry fab, but I'm sure someone can point you right.
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Jul 29, 2015 04:54
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goodness posted:Did most of you guys/gals get into this starting with small or big stuff? I started weaving maille, mostly because it's so accessible- a couple rolls of wire and rods and a jeweller's saw or flush-cut sidecutters and you're on your way. Turns out I was more interested in working with the wire itself, and hammering on thicker and thicker nonferrous wire, rod and barstock, and then sheet, and then i knew the sickness had me e: The toolset you'll need will really depend on what you're interested in doing, and the scale of production you're interested in i.e. one-offs vs production runs. Just going to Rio Grande and looking at their different levels of starter kit will give you a place to start, but you'll want to tailor those core toolsets to your interests. For example, if I wanted to do jewellery casting, I could omit the lion's share of metal-forming tools, whereas if I'm doing stonesetting I'm going to need an entire distinct toolbox of flexshaft + bits n burs n burins and so on. Some techniques like repousse are really flexible and can successfully perform jobs like wire inlay and stonesetting with specialized punches, omitting the need for a lot of extra purchased tools. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 01:35 on Jul 30, 2015 |
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Jul 30, 2015 01:27
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I got a Facebook thing from four years ago to the day, showing me the first really rough pair of earrings I ever made  we've come a long way, baby
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Jul 30, 2015 01:36
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Slung Blade posted:Friend of mine asked me to make some "Beersbie" poles, which I had never heard of. You balance a beer bottle on the platform after sticking the pole in the ground, and try to knock it off with a frisbee, other person has to try to catch it before it hits the ground or something. Sounds fun. Also known as Polish Horseshoes among my friends. One point to your team if they fumble the frisbee. Two points if you knock over the bottle and they let it touch the ground. And it is fun, really calls for a trial phase before you ship the product.
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Jul 30, 2015 02:03
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Ambrose Burnside posted:I started weaving maille, mostly because it's so accessible- a couple rolls of wire and rods and a jeweller's saw or flush-cut sidecutters and you're on your way. Turns out I was more interested in working with the wire itself, and hammering on thicker and thicker nonferrous wire, rod and barstock, and then sheet, and then i knew the sickness had me Rio Grande has some great stuff, I was already checking them out for wire wrapping. Might be picking up a set for that soon so I can probably just add something onto that once I figure it out. I have recently begun lampworking and looking into graphite/brass tools. Can anyone make something like these?  
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Jul 30, 2015 02:22
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So, welders. I've got some MIG and oxyfuel welding experience under my belt after blacksmithing school but I know TIG is the most useful for my purposes. I wanna buy a TIG welder or a combo machine, but I don't know what to look for and I really like warranties n returns on four-figure purchases so I'm leaning away from buying used. I was deadset on something well-known, a Lincoln or a Miller, but princess auto has these things: http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/firepower-mst-180i-3-in-1-multi-process-welding-system/A-p8604811e I'm not keen on a manufacturer I've never heard of, but from reading around it sounds like they're associated with Tweco/Victor and the build quality supposedly isn't atrocious. I like it because 1) Princess Auto's return policy is really permissive and very nearly no-questions-asked, which is the only circumstance in which I'm buying a scrub-tier welder, and 2) It's good to go with MIG right out of the box and I can add a TIG torch et al later on down the road when I'm up to it. Sound like an okay idea? Thoughts? e: Egh, forgot I'm stuck with 120V. Guess I'd have to go with its little brother. Lame. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 22:00 on Jul 30, 2015 |
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Jul 30, 2015 21:55
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So I was wandering around the bazaar district of old Diyakabiyr today when I came across this street of blacksmiths. Picture 12x12 closets with forges and power hammers crammed into them. Some friendly Kurds dragged me into one and we got to chatting smithery via Google translate. Then I showed them my rose and they proceeded to drag me to every shop on the street as this "Canadian blacksmith".  Got to see some scythes and stuff being forged, quite impressive how fast they can work in such tiny spaces. One shop was making replica door locks, design circa the 13th century. I was so excited about it all that I forgot to take any photos for you guys, and those shops were really cool. 
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Jul 31, 2015 13:01
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Ambrose Burnside posted:So, welders. I've got some MIG and oxyfuel welding experience under my belt after blacksmithing school but I know TIG is the most useful for my purposes. I wanna buy a TIG welder or a combo machine, but I don't know what to look for and I really like warranties n returns on four-figure purchases so I'm leaning away from buying used. I bought a multiprocess machine with the best intentions of using all the features it offered. That never. loving. happened. I saw all the extras hoses and wires and pedals and poo poo and got so disillusioned with the idea of hooking that garbage up for one job, tearing it out for another job, and then redoing it again that I just said gently caress it and saved up to buy another machine. Multiprocess looks fantastic on paper and in concept. But when you want to use the tig features for a quick little join on some piece and it takes forty five loving minutes to find the box you stored all the extra bits in, another thirty to hook it up, twenty more to get set up to weld, it's just not worth it. Don't skimp on a tig, save up, get a good one. Make sure it can do ac, because it will be handy. You can get an inexpensive arc welder, they are retardedly simple. My cheapass Longevity brand has done me really well for years and years. Mig, eh, get a decent quality unit, but don't drop thousands unless it'll be your primary. (I use my arc as the primary, it sits in my work shed and I don't worry about it getting covered in grit or using it in the mud.) Millers are phenomenal, but Lincolns are nearly as good. Hobarts are good too from what I hear. The non name brand ones can be fine, but do your research. Duty cycle is always my number one category, it is a good indication of how robust the machine was designed to be in the first place. 20% would be a babytown frolics welding toy, 60% is decent.
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Jul 31, 2015 17:04
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Slung Blade posted:The non name brand ones can be fine, but do your research. Duty cycle is always my number one category, it is a good indication of how robust the machine was designed to be in the first place. 20% would be a babytown frolics welding toy, 60% is decent. Duty cycle can be expressed as % at rated current. I don't know many people who actually weld at the full 200A or 350A offered by a lot of the inverter welders, and most of them will be 100% duty cycle below about half the max rated amps. If they aren't being specific about it, assume the worst.
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Aug 1, 2015 00:16
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Slung Blade posted:I bought a multiprocess machine with the best intentions of using all the features it offered. Yeah, that all makes sense. I definitely don't have the money to be buying multiple decent welders right now, which is why I favoured a combo machine. I actually have a horrid little 15% duty cycle buzzbox I screwed around with like once, I should futz around with it some more to convince myself not to cheap out. At this point I figure I'll just get a lincoln easy-mig, maybe put in a 240V line or subpanel in the garage with the money I'd save over the multi-use machine, good ol princess auto stocks em and people seem to like them just fine for lighter/non-production work. There's a lot of 'em used knocking around and I know my way around a mig machine well enough to not get ripped off but you don't save that much if they're lightly used so V  V
Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 13:37 on Aug 1, 2015 |
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Aug 1, 2015 03:07
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I want to start acid etching some wrought iron, and in the very near future, some damascus. Would you guys recommend hydrochloric (muriatic) acid, or ferric chloride? Is either one safer, or less stinky, faster, more thorough, or whatever? Also, what would be a safe and effective container for either of them for storing or etching?
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Aug 1, 2015 18:03
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So apparently there's a reality-show (yes, ugh, I know, but hold on) series on the History channel called "Forged in Fire" and on a whim I started watching them. It's... not terrible? They bring on actual bladesmiths and make them make blades. There's none of the typical "let's stir up drama" poo poo, they start with like six guys and narrow them down to one winner in the space of a single episode. So you don't have to follow along or watch from the beginning. It's been cool to see them showing actual blademaking techniques. Everyone seems very rushed at the beginning when they have to make something in 3 hours, but the format seems to be that the last two contestants get to go home and spend five days making their final project, so they actually have time to show off their skills. I've watched three so far. Is anyone else watching this?
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Aug 1, 2015 18:22
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blunt for century posted:I want to start acid etching some wrought iron, and in the very near future, some damascus. Would you guys recommend hydrochloric (muriatic) acid, or ferric chloride? Is either one safer, or less stinky, faster, more thorough, or whatever? Also, what would be a safe and effective container for either of them for storing or etching? I've used both and I prefer ferric chloride. Muriatic is a little more dangerous and a little more complicated to use - when etching in it small bubbles tend to form on the surface of your piece, and will need to be brushed away gently if you want to have an even finish. My process for ferric chloride is as follows:
2. Warm the etch to around 100 degrees Fahrenheit. 3. Clean your piece completely, preferably with something like acetone. Any residual oil (including fingerprints!) will show up afterward. 4. Place your piece in the etch. Ideally, you'll be able to suspend it so that no sides are touching your container. 5. Wait 10 minutes. 6. Pull piece out, spray with windex over a bucket with a layer of baking soda at the bottom. 7. Wash under running water and lightly scrub with steel wool. Dry afterward. 8. Lightly sand with 1000 grit sandpaper until color/finish is adjusted to taste. 9. Coat with mineral oil. Repeat steps 3-8 as often as desired (or leave in the etch longer) if you want to etch away more material. For damascus, a longer etch will often give you a textured surface effect, as the stuff more susceptible to the etch gets eaten away faster than the more resistant steel. Store your etch and do your etching far away from anything you don't want corroded, and once finished make sure your runoff is neutralized. Even after it's been neutralized, you'll need to dispose of it safely according to whatever local ordinances are in effect.
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Aug 2, 2015 01:36
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mjan posted:I've used both and I prefer ferric chloride. Muriatic is a little more dangerous and a little more complicated to use - when etching in it small bubbles tend to form on the surface of your piece, and will need to be brushed away gently if you want to have an even finish. That's a lot of info! Thanks a bunch!
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Aug 2, 2015 02:10
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Leperflesh posted:So apparently there's a reality-show (yes, ugh, I know, but hold on) series on the History channel called "Forged in Fire" and on a whim I started watching them. Good show. They start with four guys who have 3 or 4 hours to get a basic blade. One person is eliminated and then they get another 3 hours to refine the blade and make a handle. Another guy is eliminated then the final two go home and make a kickass sword.
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Aug 2, 2015 17:45
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Went out an picked up an old anvil that I started restoring a couple years ago and never finished. The top plate was delaminated in places, edges were badly chipped, and the face was sunk in. It is a Mousehole anvil from the late 1800s, weighs in at 220-230#. Started grinding/chiseling out the bad and welding it up and got distracted by other things. Its time to finish polishing this turd. Pictured next to a vise I bought for $30 a few weeks ago that I don't really know what I'll use for.
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Aug 2, 2015 23:09
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You can always find a use for a vice.
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Aug 3, 2015 18:49
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Ambrose Burnside posted:So, welders. I've got some MIG and oxyfuel welding experience under my belt after blacksmithing school but I know TIG is the most useful for my purposes. I wanna buy a TIG welder or a combo machine, but I don't know what to look for and I really like warranties n returns on four-figure purchases so I'm leaning away from buying used. I had the same decision to make half a year ago. I am also currently limited to 120VAC so I decided on getting a decent dual voltage miller so I could use it when I go somewhere with 240VAC. https://www.kmstools.com/miller-diversion-180-tig-welder-dual-voltage-21430 Was the one I bought. It's almost doubled in price since then, the US->CAN exchange has hit them hard. That being said, it probably is the easiest welder I have ever used. It didn't take long at all to start making really nice welds and there was pretty much no setup to figure out.
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Aug 4, 2015 02:16
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