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Godholio posted:Minivans used to be garbage when your only engine options were horrible 1980s-designed 4-cylinders that could barely push a mower out of its own way or iron tank V6s that barely made more power. They still have the stigma of giving up on your hopes and dreams, but they're worlds better than they used to be. New Toyota Sienna's come with a pretty decent V6 and AWD. I am pretty sure its based off Carmy platform. I mean, compare today's SUV's and they look like mini vans with bigger wheels and suck more gas. Or just man up and get a Miata. Make 5 exciting trips instead of 1 boring trip!
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Aug 15, 2015 20:04
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Random question. I took my car into the shop to get the serpentine belt replaced (gettin squeaky etc). I got about 3 miles away from the lot and the belt split right down the middle. The shop won't be able to fix it again until Monday, but I was just curious what might cause something like that to happen. I mean assuming it's a brand new belt - what would cause it to suddenly split like that? I mean i wasn't going really fast - maybe 45 mph tops for about 5 miles before it happened. 2011 Ford Focus if it matters
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Aug 15, 2015 20:38
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Either manufacturing defect or they hosed up routing it and it touched something it wasn't supposed to.
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Aug 15, 2015 21:07
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Here's a kind of stupid question: what do you do with junk oily parts? For instance, I have an oil pan that I'm never going to use because the motor ate a bearing and I don't trust it to be free of particulates. I wouldn't want to sell it for the same reason. I'd expect that metal recycling places wouldn't want something with that much oil in it, too, right? So what do?
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Aug 16, 2015 00:19
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Let me say this.. my minivan can fit a 42" riding mower in it with the seats down and fronts taken out. My last time hauling I fit the following. 3 large totes 5 large cardboard boxes, 6 dining room chairs, a small table saw bolted to a stand. The v6 has enough juice to make it fun to drive.
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Aug 16, 2015 00:20
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Raluek posted:Here's a kind of stupid question: what do you do with junk oily parts? For instance, I have an oil pan that I'm never going to use because the motor ate a bearing and I don't trust it to be free of particulates. I wouldn't want to sell it for the same reason. I'd expect that metal recycling places wouldn't want something with that much oil in it, too, right? So what do? Let most of the oil drain into a drain pan, then recycle however you want. Hell they probably don't care as it is... they shred and crush junk cars that have many of the fluids (ps, diffs, brake system, sometimes ac and tranny/tcase depending on how lazy they are) still in them and recycle the metal without a care in the world. Second option: bring it to your favorite junkyard and whip it into the car they are using as a dumpster presently. Most upulls will have a car off to the side somewhere that they've torn the roof open on, then loaded with castoff parts and junk from the aisles, closed back up, and will crush. They basically use them as a dumpster, crush the debris burrito of a car, and send it off as scrapmetal. e: it doesn't really affect the steel they make from the scrap, either, just burns off in the furnace and becomes smoke and slag. As long as it isn't trailing a stream of oil that will net them an EPA violation they simply do not care. kastein fucked around with this message at 01:11 on Aug 16, 2015 |
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Aug 16, 2015 01:08
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tater_salad posted:Let me say this.. my minivan can fit a 42" riding mower in it with the seats down and fronts taken out. The back of my parents' minivan played host to a number of romantic encounters during high school. I'd removed the back seats because "I needed to move some plywood". KING BONG, do your children a favor and let them drive the old minivan when they're in high school. Alternatively, a Tesla when properly optioned can seat seven.
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Aug 16, 2015 02:22
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OK, here's a stupid question. I have a 2005 Honda Civic. I finally got around to rotating my tires yesterday - but decided not to, because the passenger's side rear tire was damaged:  Looking more closely, it is not just damaged, but worn unevenly - the outer part of the tire has significantly more wear than the inner part. I then checked the other tire, and while it didn't have any scary damage, it was wearing the same way - lots-a wear on the outside, very little on the inside. (I also checked my front tires - they appear to be wearing fine.) I'm guessing this is a rear suspension issue? Need alignment badly (and new tires)?
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Aug 16, 2015 02:28
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that looks like the results of a badly unbalanced tire, a defective tire, and/or a blown shock/strut on that corner. Was that tire ever driven on while flat or low on air?
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Aug 16, 2015 03:17
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I've never seen that kind of tread damage. Was this a retreaded tire or something?
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Aug 16, 2015 04:45
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kastein posted:that looks like the results of a badly unbalanced tire, a defective tire, and/or a blown shock/strut on that corner. Not to my knowledge, though a badly unbalanced/defective tire sounds like a possibility. I bought the car a year ago, and when I bought it, I replaced the suspension bushings. Maybe the tire was damaged before then and the mechanics didn't notice? VelociBacon posted:I've never seen that kind of tread damage. Was this a retreaded tire or something? This is also something that might be possible. I think instead of rotating the tires the previous owner might have replaced the front tires and moved the older ones to the back.
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Aug 16, 2015 06:24
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Nebakenezzer posted:This is also something that might be possible. I think instead of rotating the tires the previous owner might have replaced the front tires and moved the older ones to the back. Do you know if the previous owner ever towed the car behind an RV? I've seen strange tire wear on cars that get pulled around for long distances, usually the towing setup is to blame.
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Aug 16, 2015 07:47
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8ender posted:Do you know if the previous owner ever towed the car behind an RV? I've seen strange tire wear on cars that get pulled around for long distances, usually the towing setup is to blame. Sorry, no idea. On Monday I'm going to take it to a garage; hopefully they will have some idea. (Who knows, maybe the rears were just super cheap tires.)
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Aug 16, 2015 16:24
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Welp the Mazda (86 B2000, tan) waited about a week before deciding to betray me. We had just got on the freeway headed for the Pick & Pull to find a new seat, then the engine turned off and, as we coasted down, let off a nice big smoky backfire. I got it started again and got off the freeway, although the engine shut itself off a few more times on the way, typically while coasting to a light or sitting at the light. It's got oil. There's coolant in the radiator and the temp gauge shows normal. I did, however, notice a crack on the vapor canister's vacuum nipple, which was hissing away. I had heard some very slight hissing before but I think it must have cracked more just recently. I made a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7sRruPYoBcw You can't hear it so well in that video but the engine definitely idles lower when I try to close up the split part. I haven't had to deal with a vacuum leak before but a little research makes it seem like this could well be the cause of the engine stalling, at least at the lights. Unfortunately the crack is in the plastic of the canister rather than in the hose, and these things seem to be about $100+ online (can't even find one on Rockauto, just various sketchy "oemmazdaparts4u" kind of sites). Will I fail NM emissions if I just cap the vacuum line and leave the canister alone otherwise? Are these things generic enough that, if I can find another that fits, it should work? Edit: I could try superglue on the fucker... Pham Nuwen fucked around with this message at 18:54 on Aug 16, 2015 |
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Aug 16, 2015 18:45
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Vacuum leaks are a bitch on these. There are people who rip out the emissions related poo poo, which accounts for a lot of the vacuum driven crap around the carb. There's a bunch of random info here, no idea if something will be useful but at least they have the diagrams for the vacuum lines (which are hard to find). The forums auto url parse is being retarded so you'll have to copy and pull out the [url] tags that it refuses to quit putting in the wrong place. code:
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Aug 16, 2015 22:49
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70s and 80s Fords used a coffee-can style vacuum canister - you may be able to adapt one to work?
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Aug 17, 2015 01:10
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What is that canister even for? Some places are referring to it as a charcoal filter of some sort and saying it prevents fuel odor in the cab.
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Aug 17, 2015 02:00
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I've found myself in the situation where my wife and I may have a free car at our disposal. We're trying to do our homework to see if it's even remotely feasible or just a sad money pit. The car is a 1999 Mazda Protege DX. It has about 135K miles on it. The car belongs to our friends who were going to donate it anyways, and they've offered to give it to us if we're interested. We live in NYC and would likely use it for small trips to the grocery store, as well as periodic longer distance trips to visit family in Boston or DC. I haven't seen the car in person but from reports from our friends there are a few little lovely things going on (the drivers side window mechanism is broken and I have heard something about a stick/dowel being used to hold it up) but that sounds like it's not a big deal. The car is currently in Boston so I can't pop over there to do an inspection. Right now I'm relying on their reports and will go up there or take further steps if this isn't automatically a waste of time. There are two immediate red flags to me from what I've heard from them: 1) They have not replaced the timing belt yet. From reading the sticky threads this sounds like something that needs to be done at around 100K miles. They put it off because they were planning on replacing the car. 2) There's something wonky sounding happening with the climate control. From them: "...the climate controls are a little wonky. Heat is very slow to work if you are driving fast on a cold day and the ac only works set to blow toward the window. We think this is minor and due to when the radio was jacked." Not opposed to spend some money to get the car in working order but don't want this to turn into a tragedy. Is the lack of a replaced timing belt a dealbreaker? How much will it run us to replace that? Is the climate control thing a minor or potentially serious issue from this (limited) information? I'm thinking of asking them to take the car to their mechanic for a look over to identify any potential major issues down the line and cover the cost. Is that reasonable/worthwhile? Apologies for what are likely incredibly stupid questions. I have not owned a car since I was about 16 and we were not planning on buying a car for a few years out. This opportunity sort of snuck up on us. E-Money fucked around with this message at 02:17 on Aug 17, 2015 |
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Aug 17, 2015 02:14
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From what I can find on Google the 1.6L in that car should be non-interference, so if the timing belt does break, it'll leave you stranded but you're not looking at new-engine time; just new belt and it'll run again. Replace it quick OFC but you won't be out 5 grand or whatever. The heater sound like it could be a clogged heater core, it should be able to keep the cabin warm regardless of outside temp (or just set it to recirculate so it's just reheating the cabin air instead of incoming cold air). Save up some money to replace it (or just set aside some time to DIY, but heater cores are a bastard on 99% of cars). Regardless, a clogged heater core is better than a leaky one, as the latter will dump your coolant in the cabin and leave you with an overheating engine; the former is just inconvenient/takes away that emergency second radiator to prevent overheating from other failures. The blend door are cable-actuated, so it's plausible that a quick-working thief could have damaged/broken some of those cables. They can be replaced/adjusted as necessary, but may involve removing the dash/some severe contortions to reach and/or install; consider doing this at the same time as the heater core. Actually, if the temperature blend door cable is misadjusted it could cause the heater issue all by itself. So basically nothing I'd consider a dealbreaker (although I live in the sweltering south, not the frozen north, so the heater stuff is a little more important for you), just know what you're getting into, and maybe get some estimates from a mechanic you trust if you don't feel like DIY'ing it. E: Replace the water pump with the timing belt, and new tensioner hardware would be a good idea too.
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Aug 17, 2015 03:53
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Taking it to a trusted mechanic for a look-over is reasonable, and usually runs around a hundred bucks. It's generally referred to a PPI or Pre Purchase Inspection. I'm not sure how specific those are about their timing belt intervals, but it looks like they're non-interference so you wouldn't do catastrophic damage to the engine if it were to break. I guess prices for a timing belt vary, so I won't speculate. Maybe get a quote on that job when you have the PPI? Also, the thing about the heat not working very well on cold days at speed make me think that the thermostat might be non-operational or completely missing. I don't know how easy they are to get to on those cars. E: F, b.
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Aug 17, 2015 04:00
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Parts Kit posted:What is that canister even for? Some places are referring to it as a charcoal filter of some sort and saying it prevents fuel odor in the cab. It could be that, in which case he'll need to order one from Rockauto (or track a non-broken one down) - it's an emissions item as well, in that it prevents fuel odors from escaping. If it is a vacuum canister, it's to make sure anything vacuum operated can still work for a bit when you stomp on it (which drops vacuum down to zero).
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Aug 17, 2015 05:39
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The bearings in the rear axle of my Jeep (dana 35 axle, btw) are lubricated by gear oil in the differential case. I don't see a pump anywhere in that thing, how the gently caress do the bearings get enough oil? Surely it's not just a case of hoping that you take corners hard enough to sling oil down the tube, because I do lots of straight-line highway driving, and the factory bearing lasted 195,000 miles.
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Aug 17, 2015 19:42
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EightBit posted:The bearings in the rear axle of my Jeep (dana 35 axle, btw) are lubricated by gear oil in the differential case. I don't see a pump anywhere in that thing, how the gently caress do the bearings get enough oil? Surely it's not just a case of hoping that you take corners hard enough to sling oil down the tube, because I do lots of straight-line highway driving, and the factory bearing lasted 195,000 miles. Your axle has it's own oil, and it's moved around by the gears splashing it.
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Aug 17, 2015 19:57
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In other words, yes, it really is just lubricated by all of that oil splashing back and forth. Look at where the bottom of the fill plug is relative to the bottom of the axle tube, though - it's not like it has to climb all the way up the side of the pumpkin to even get to the axle.
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Aug 17, 2015 20:15
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Not sure if this is the place to ask, but not sure what to do. Someone tried to steal a friend of mine's 2000 Dodge Neon. Slim jimmed it, so no damage to door, but they yanked the ignition lock cylinder clean out... and left it? So I go over, stick in a large screwdriver, turn it, starter motor turns the engine over, but no ignition. In desperation, I reinsert the ignition lock cylinder and try it again: same result. Occurs to me that some sort of anti-theft system has been tripped, which is why they didn't steal it. Which means it worked! Yay! So I give up, use my AAA to get her a free tow to a mechanic (this was yesterday, Sunday afternoon). Mechanic calls this morning, says he can't fix it because the steering column is damaged, tells her to call a dealer. She calls the two Dodge dealers in the area, one says that a 2000 is so old that they won't touch it, other one says there is a two-week wait. She needs to get her car back to go to work! What do we do now? Maybe a body shop?
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Aug 17, 2015 21:03
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Howdy My car was really loud while driving this weekend. Took it to the mechanic and the front flex pipe came off. So that needs to be replaced along with the sleeve/clamp. I have a 2008 a4 2.0T 6 speed. My mechanic is pricing the parts at local shops, and told me to just price at the deals in case. The two I called are $550-600... that's a lot more than I thought? Like googling front flex pipe brings up a bunch of stuff fro $50-100+ so I figured it couldn't be too bad and then I got that quote. I am assuming I;ll find cheaper when I call some of the scrap yards but what should I expect for parts on this?
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Aug 17, 2015 21:13
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EightBit posted:The bearings in the rear axle of my Jeep (dana 35 axle, btw) are lubricated by gear oil in the differential case. I don't see a pump anywhere in that thing, how the gently caress do the bearings get enough oil? Surely it's not just a case of hoping that you take corners hard enough to sling oil down the tube, because I do lots of straight-line highway driving, and the factory bearing lasted 195,000 miles. That oil gets thrown pretty loving far when the diff is spinning at ~750rpm (highway speed on stock tires) - you'd be surprised.
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Aug 17, 2015 23:57
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Squashy Nipples posted:Not sure if this is the place to ask, but not sure what to do. I'm not sure how Dodge handled their PATS system on that year Neon but usually it's accomplished by a short range wireless transponder system. Check if there's an antenna or ring sensor mounted on/near the ignition cylinder that may have been disconnected. You could get lucky and it just needs to be plugged back in, or needs a new sensor/pigtail end of the harness.
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Aug 18, 2015 00:11
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Geoj posted:I'm not sure how Dodge handled their PATS system on that year Neon but usually it's accomplished by a short range wireless transponder system. Check if there's an antenna or ring sensor mounted on/near the ignition cylinder that may have been disconnected. You could get lucky and it just needs to be plugged back in, or needs a new sensor/pigtail end of the harness. Hi, I'm the friend aforementioned. Could you please give us a little more info about this "PATS system?" I tried to google it and got nothing. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I've got the number for another mechanic with a lot more experience, but it's a decent tow away and if there's a way to start her up and then drive her over to get double checked that would be best. Thank you so much! EDIT: 2000 Dodge Neon SL2, 4 door, 4 cylinder, no alterations. I have a keyfob but the batteries in it are dead. Is it possible that maybe putting new batteries in the fob and lock/unlocking it would trigger something? Go with Christ fucked around with this message at 01:31 on Aug 18, 2015 |
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Aug 18, 2015 01:20
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Geoj posted:I'm not sure how Dodge handled their PATS system on that year Neon but usually it's accomplished by a short range wireless transponder system. Check if there's an antenna or ring sensor mounted on/near the ignition cylinder that may have been disconnected. You could get lucky and it just needs to be plugged back in, or needs a new sensor/pigtail end of the harness. OK, looks like it's called SKIM, not PATS. That helps, thanks. As long as the entire column doesn't need to be replaced, I can do it myself. Need to find out exactly why the garage didn't think they could work on it. On a totally unrelated issue, I'm buying a used car, and I thought that a CarFax was supposed to cost like $12? The AAA site said that I could get a discount, but when I clicked through it wanted to charge me $33.29 for the report? WTF?
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Aug 18, 2015 02:31
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If the car you are buying is from a dealer - make them pony up the money. On your own? I think car fax has a 30 day package so you can run multiple vins. Or chum up with a car dealer friend.
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Aug 18, 2015 02:55
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Squashy Nipples posted:On a totally unrelated issue, I'm buying a used car, and I thought that a CarFax was supposed to cost like $12? I just paid $55 for a CarProof (  ). If I wanted to include records from BC in the search it'd have been $75. And it was the same price when our funbux were at par with American Dollhairs.poo poo's just expensive. They don't have much for competition and it's become a mandatory part of a used car sale so they know they can get away with charging whatever.
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Aug 18, 2015 03:03
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Squashy Nipples posted:Need to find out exactly why the garage didn't think they could work on it. Probably looked at 15 year old car with a crank/no start following an attempted theft and didn't want any part of it. Parts scarcity aside that's a giant  of other potential problems they wouldn't want to deal with.
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Aug 18, 2015 03:23
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Go with Christ posted:EDIT: 2000 Dodge Neon SL2, 4 door, 4 cylinder, no alterations. I have a keyfob but the batteries in it are dead. Is it possible that maybe putting new batteries in the fob and lock/unlocking it would trigger something? Very unlikely. The key fob functions are completely independent from the Sentry Key functions. The only crossover is in that either one will disable the factory alarm and any other (non-immobilizer) antitheft features. Once the alarm's not blaring at you, though, you still need a valid Sentry Key to disable the immobilizer. It's also worth mentioning that the designed behavior of the SKIM system is that the vehicle will start but not run—the fuel supply is cut after ignition. That typically works out to around 2 seconds of runtime. Occasionally an older vehicle may fail to start for nebulous reasons with a simple bad key or a damaged antenna, but failing to start is often an indication of a larger problem with the SKIM or electrical systems (such as a thief might create by tearing apart your steering column and playing with wires willy-nilly).
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Aug 18, 2015 07:05
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1998 Honda Accord LX sedan, F23A1 (2.3L VTEC), automatic. Someone in my IOP group got an oil change recently. Car is losing oil like crazy now. She's having to add at least a quart a day. Previously it needed about a quart between 5k oil changes. I looked under it today, there was a large pool (at least 2 ft wide) of oil kind of toward the drivers side, close to the middle - which is where I seem to remember the oil filter being on my 01 Accord with the same engine. Also a smaller puddle directly under the oil pan. Anything else that would cause a sudden massive oil leak on one of these? The distributor is definitely leaking very bad from the o-ring, but that leak should stop once the engine is shut off - and shouldn't make its way to the drivers side. I took her to WalMart to get a 5 qt jug of oil, as she said the oil light was blinking when she got to the IOP place. It took 3.5 qts to get it to the "full" mark. It holds 3.8 qts.  How it hasn't seized is beyond me, but it's definitely got a top end rattle now. Not knocking yet, but I wouldn't trust it on a road trip (esp since it's on the original timing belt, and also leaking coolant from the thermostat housing).Am I right in thinking the oil filter got double gasketed, and they probably either overtightened the drain plug or left the gasket off? The place that changed the oil claims she signed a waiver and won't even look at it. It has a shitton of miles, so they're blaming the knock knock jokes and rattling on the mileage (has about 230k, and it's not well maintained, but ran fine before the oil change). She's been able to name at least 10 occasions when the oil light started flashing in the 2 weeks since the oil change (which on a Honda, means "zero oil pressure", while a solid oil light means "you barely have any oil pressure", IIRC). She's just trying to get it to last 3-6 months; the car is honestly beyond saving at this point, between the body damage, mileage, and the rattling top end. It'd be a good parts car, as the interior and about half of the body panels are in great shape, but it's not worth putting any money into beyond "does it need this to keep running?". randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:35 on Aug 18, 2015 |
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Aug 18, 2015 07:33
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Geoj posted:Probably looked at 15 year old car with a crank/no start following an attempted theft and didn't want any part of it. Parts scarcity aside that's a giant Nah, this is the kind of place that works on cars that old. EDIT: Bought a five pack of CarFaxes, probably won't use them all. Maybe I'll resell the leftovers to goons. Squashy Nipples fucked around with this message at 12:50 on Aug 18, 2015 |
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Aug 18, 2015 11:29
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If the SKIM is activated, would replacing the lock cylinder work, or is this something a professional would need to look at? It didn't look like any wires got pulled out from when I saw it, but I could have missed it. EDIT: Neon ES, SL2 was my old Saturn. Derp. Go with Christ fucked around with this message at 12:51 on Aug 18, 2015 |
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Aug 18, 2015 12:40
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kastein posted:that looks like the results of a badly unbalanced tire, a defective tire, and/or a blown shock/strut on that corner. According to the garage, it was blown struts. I thought I might need a wheel alignment but all in the repairs cost almost $2000  That is for: New base pan (that was leaking oil) Replacing all the bits in the rear suspension that need replacing New wheel bearing (fortunately I have the replacement part for this) An exhaust leak Another dumb question: is the quoted price in the ball park for this sorta stuff in Canada?
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Aug 18, 2015 13:40
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Nebakenezzer posted:According to the garage, it was blown struts. I thought I might need a wheel alignment but all in the repairs cost almost $2000 Are you in Vancouver? I know a shop.
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Aug 18, 2015 14:01
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some texas redneck posted:1998 Honda Accord LX sedan, F23A1 (2.3L VTEC), automatic. The drain plug gasket is just there for preload, all the sealing is done by the threads. If they overtightened it it would leak gasket or not, if they forgot the gasket it miiiight back off but with threads in good shape it would either hold oil or dump it on the ground immediately. Based on your description I'd assume filter gasket is the main thing. Have her demand to see this so-called waiver.
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Aug 18, 2015 14:48
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