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Enourmo posted:The drain plug gasket is just there for preload, all the sealing is done by the threads. If they overtightened it it would leak gasket or not, if they forgot the gasket it miiiight back off but with threads in good shape it would either hold oil or dump it on the ground immediately. Based on your description I'd assume filter gasket is the main thing. Or find a shop that isn't filled with assholes. "signed a waiver" 
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Aug 18, 2015 15:03
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VelociBacon posted:Are you in Vancouver? I know a shop. Sadly, I'm on the other coast on a island.
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Aug 18, 2015 15:06
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some texas redneck posted:1998 Honda Accord LX sedan, F23A1 (2.3L VTEC), automatic. 230k and no timing belt? Lucky. Making the car drain oil can be their fault, if you can prove it.. Don't touch anything on your own.. tow it to a shop.. tell them it's leaking massive amounts of oil and that you need them to diagnose it and figure it out. Generally Signing a waiver doesn't mean that negligence can be absolved, if the independent shop can write up what was wrong and why it was leaking oil and it turns out it was negligence of quickiee loobe. The issue is though.. someone drove the vehicle with the oil leaking and the oil light on. Oil light generally means STOP NOW, generally it's bad for the bottom end before the top end. How bad is the valvetrain nose? tater_salad fucked around with this message at 15:15 on Aug 18, 2015 |
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Aug 18, 2015 15:08
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How it hasn't seized is beyond me, but it's definitely got a top end rattle now. Not knocking yet, but I wouldn't trust it on a road trip (esp since it's on the original timing belt, and also leaking coolant from the thermostat housing).
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Left work yesterday to find a the plastic cover on one of my headlights is cracked. 5 2-5 inch long cracks from radially around the top corner. The lights all still work, but I don't think the cracks would be watertight. My car isn't a beater, but it only bluebooks at 2k, has 130k miles, and I don't care how things look. Is this something I need to fix because water getting in will gently caress other stuff up, or since it doesn't look terrible and lights still work can I just let it slide for the last 3-4 years of this cars life?
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Aug 18, 2015 15:19
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Xenoborg posted:Left work yesterday to find a the plastic cover on one of my headlights is cracked. 5 2-5 inch long cracks from radially around the top corner. The lights all still work, but I don't think the cracks would be watertight. My car isn't a beater, but it only bluebooks at 2k, has 130k miles, and I don't care how things look. Is this something I need to fix because water getting in will gently caress other stuff up, or since it doesn't look terrible and lights still work can I just let it slide for the last 3-4 years of this cars life? If you want to make it water tight and dont' give a poo poo about anything else.. get some 2 part clear epoxy and a bunch of qtips.. Paint the crack with the epoxy. If it's blue you can probably get a headlight housing for $100 or less from a junkyard.
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Aug 18, 2015 15:23
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Molten Llama posted:Very unlikely. The key fob functions are completely independent from the Sentry Key functions. Yep, SKIM did it's job, snapped right in two.  Outside of that, virtually no damage to anything else. I'm guessing there is about a zero chance that I could solder the wires together, epoxy the ring back together, and it will work? Assuming I can find a used SKIM unit by itself, it needs to be reprogrammed to the key, right? I'm guessing only a dealership would do that. EDIT: Having difficulty finding a replacement SKIM module Squashy Nipples fucked around with this message at 17:19 on Aug 18, 2015 |
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Aug 18, 2015 16:23
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^ Might have to go to a junkyard, but OTOH if the module is intended to break when tampered with you may not be able to remove it intact. Getting the new module programmed will either require a dealer with the correct scanner/programmer that can talk to the security module, or you might be able to find a locksmith with comparable equipment. Since the car is so old many dealers may not even have the equipment to talk to the security system anymore. Alternatively you could salvage the entire lock cylinder if the yard has the keys, but then you'd also have to replace the lock cylinder(s) in the doors and trunk unless you're OK with having separate keys for the doors & ignition.
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Aug 18, 2015 17:40
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IIRC the way SKIM works is the module is just a receiver and the actual checking is done by the ECU, but I may be misremembering this. You can also unplug the SKIM and get an ECU from a donor car with the same engine/trans/year and no SKIM and just plug it in. SKIM delete complete.
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Aug 18, 2015 18:28
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Any recommendations or good resources on driving twisty mountain passes with steep dropoffs for the first time? I will spend a few days in September in the French and Swiss Alps and my vertigo is already anxious. The rental car will probably be a VW Golf with auto trans. I love driving and I love twisty roads, but combining that with cliffs will make my heart race. How do I not die of fear
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Aug 18, 2015 22:49
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Don't drive faster than you can see. It's okay to slow down for the turns. Down shift when going down hill so you don't cook your brakes. Pull over when you can to let the locals go by.
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Aug 18, 2015 23:08
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Use the tiptronic/dsg function, stay in lower gears, brake decisively instead of riding the brakes continuously, take a concrete pill.
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Aug 18, 2015 23:09
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Pay attention to the road, not the edge - it's just like any other road. Then what everyone else said: Low gear, don't ride your brakes, don't let rear end in a top hat locals spook you by riding your rear end just let them by when it's safe.
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Aug 19, 2015 00:53
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CharlieWhiskey posted:Any recommendations or good resources on driving twisty mountain passes with steep dropoffs for the first time? I will spend a few days in September in the French and Swiss Alps and my vertigo is already anxious. The rental car will probably be a VW Golf with auto trans. I love driving and I love twisty roads, but combining that with cliffs will make my heart race. How do I not die of fear My first time on mountains was going through the rockies and bighorns in my Sonata. I didn't really understand downshifting, didn't like hearing the engine whine, and as a result warped a relatively new set of brakes. Second time on the Forester went a lot better this summer. Just go recommended speed limits (or if there aren't any, a bit slower than you might think you need to)
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Aug 19, 2015 00:55
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Ok here's one that's probably quite stupid. I have, as best as I can tell, this starter motor in my pickup:  I can see the two beefy bolts on the solenoid that come from the battery and go to the starter. I can see, in between those, the connector that should presumably go to the ignition switch. So what's that loving green wire? I only noticed it today when my truck wouldn't start (it just made slow solenoid-sounding clicks, and then eventually didn't click at all, even after I bump started it and drove home). Right now it's just hanging down more or less like in the picture, not connected to anything. I don't remember if it's always been like that or what.
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Aug 19, 2015 04:05
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tater_salad posted:230k and no timing belt? Lucky. Yeah, I told them they were incredibly lucky the timing belt hasn't let go. They don't know if the previous owner ever had it done, but judging by the overall condition of the car (rough aside from the interior), and the buy-here-pay-here lot sticker on the back, it's probably safe to assume it's never been done. The valvetrain sounds somewhat like a Honda that hasn't had the valves adjusted in, well, 200k - but you can tell there's something worse going on. It's a bit too "tappy", and sounds a lot like my old Civic did after the oil light came on at ~7000 RPM (except the Civic started telling knock knock jokes within a couple of minutes). I don't hear any bottom end noises yet, but I didn't rev it or have them rev it, I only heard it when it was started after almost the entire oil capacity was added to it. I'd love to take a sample for Blackstone and see how much of a "WHAT THE gently caress DID THIS poo poo COME OUT OF?!" report I'd get back, except the oil leaks out so fast that I'd probably have to get a sample from the filter. They can't afford a tow. They can't even afford to replace the burned out brake light on the car, and I'm not really counting on seeing the $12 I loaned them for oil. Enourmo posted:The drain plug gasket is just there for preload, all the sealing is done by the threads. If they overtightened it it would leak gasket or not, if they forgot the gasket it miiiight back off but with threads in good shape it would either hold oil or dump it on the ground immediately. Based on your description I'd assume filter gasket is the main thing. She demanded, and was told to leave. Great business strategy. I'll see her again on Thursday - I'll show up a bit early and bring a drain pan, and a new oil filter. Plan is to remove existing oil filter, see if it's double gasketed; if it is, take photo, leave review on yelp. If it's not, I really don't see what else could be leaking this bad except for the VTEC solenoid. And that area is totally dry; it's soaking wet under the distributor, and the entire back of the engine is soaked. And up until the last oil change, she claims it had never leaked enough to leave a drop on the ground.
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Aug 19, 2015 07:15
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The previous incarnation of the thread was a god send before, so I'm hoping you all can help again. 91 Nissan d21 with the 2.4. Previously wanted to die on me when I stopped/slowed down quickly. I replaced the fuel filter, iacv, plugs etc and that took care of the problem. Appears that problem is back now, same situation makes it want to die. I don't know what the expected life span of a fuel filter/iacv should be, but I'd think more then a year right? Any ideas? Edit: my power steering pump is going out too, not sure if that is relevant or not
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Aug 19, 2015 14:23
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I have a towing question. I have an 08 honda civic (4 door). I'd like to tow my bike to track days, but bike + trailer is 1000lb, which is exactly the towing capacity for the car. I live in an apartment with a public lot, so I can't own an ultralight trailer, basically only rent the ones from uhaul. So my idiot clueless question is, how bad is it to tow at capacity? Will it wreck my suspension/transmission? Are there any options besides buying a car with a better tow rating?
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Aug 19, 2015 14:35
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M42 posted:I have a towing question. I have an 08 honda civic (4 door). I'd like to tow my bike to track days, but bike + trailer is 1000lb, which is exactly the towing capacity for the car. I live in an apartment with a public lot, so I can't own an ultralight trailer, basically only rent the ones from uhaul. American car specifications are known for under-rating towing capacity. Keep it slow and you'll be fine. Some Home Depots have the 5' x 8' trailers with surge brakes; if you can, get one of those. Also get a professionally fitted trailer hitch, biggest you can, with a 2" ball.
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Aug 19, 2015 15:22
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We're moving and need to ship my husband's 1977 chevy truck. Does anyone have any recommendations for vehicle transport companies? They all seem to be shady and useless.
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Aug 19, 2015 15:28
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First some good/bad advice. 1. Look under car and determine source of bleeding. 2. Probaly replace filter / add oil. 3. Add motor honey (Lucas Oil stuff) and see if the valves stop sounding like a sweingmachine 4. Let owner drive.. and Make it.. or not. Now some dadvice, this would be something my dad would say to the owner: Okay, car ownership probably isn't for this person. I understand transportation etc. But I'd highly suggest a bus/train for any long term (not in town) transportation. A rear brake light bulb is going to be like $7 at the poo poo-n-shop. - THis is not a major life expense A tow from home to close shop should be like fiddybux, and a mechanics opinion also fiddybux if they are just going to look under the car change the oil and say ye.. QUik-EE-Loobe hosed up. Generally shops / dealers who do timing belts are kind enough to slap a sticker somewhere.. firewall or timing cover, look there. A 200k mile civic ~20 year old civic with a timing belt with unknown miles on it is a liability for anything above travel in town. If you break down on a highway you can't just push it into a parking lot / parking spot and walk away, and it gets expensive fast, I paid $70 for $10 worth of gas on the NYS thruway because my breakdown coverage company didn't have the rights (Didn't get highest bidder) to that mile marker. A tow off of a highway will probably cost around $200 if the civic breaks down. Then you need to get it home, or find a recycle company to junk it because the tow home is going to be worth more than the vehicle.
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Aug 19, 2015 19:16
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Pham Nuwen posted:Ok here's one that's probably quite stupid. On a lot of Chryslers, I think I recall that being something for a remote start option.
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Aug 19, 2015 19:52
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Geirskogul posted:On a lot of Chryslers, I think I recall that being something for a remote start option. Well this particular application is for a 1986 Mazda pickup but who knows how many cars this thing fits. I can't figure out where the hell that green wire would connect, so I'm gonna go with "starter motor or solenoid is probably hosed" and just replace it, it's $52 once I get the core charge back.
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Aug 19, 2015 21:59
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M42 posted:I have a towing question. I have an 08 honda civic (4 door). I'd like to tow my bike to track days, but bike + trailer is 1000lb, which is exactly the towing capacity for the car. I live in an apartment with a public lot, so I can't own an ultralight trailer, basically only rent the ones from uhaul. Keep in mind that it's not just the drivetrain pulling and suspension supporting the trailer, you have to be able to safely steer it in traffic and stop. Plenty of videos out there demonstrating how easy it is to gently caress that up. If you're right around capacity I wouldn't be too worried (practice if you want) but on Jeep forums there are constantly people wanting to tow 5,000+ lbs with their JKU (max capacity 3500), and those people will probably end up in prison for something related to causing a traffic death if they get in an accident.
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Aug 19, 2015 22:39
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Thanks for the mountain driving tips.Slavvy posted:take a concrete pill. I had to Google this, but I most certainly will. 
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Aug 19, 2015 23:14
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Cross-posting from the chat thread, although it also addresses my issues from earlier in THIS thread! Looks like my '02 Golf's oil problems are far from fixed. 12 days ago:  Today:  No leaks or puddles on the floor of the garage, a lot of carbon build-up on the spark plugs. After I took em out I found enough oil on their threads to paint a fuckin picture. If I get that new job, I can bus in to work and finally rebuild this engine cuz the compression test checked out and the valve cover gasket is fine (even though that wasn't the problem in the first place).  Any other tests or checks I can do to keep me from hauling this engine out and unfucking it? The thing I was going to check next was the valve stem seals.
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Aug 20, 2015 16:19
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My wife and my father are convinced I'm going to die if I get under my Miata while it's on jackstands. Weirdly, my dad knows 4 different people who've died in his 800 person town from cars/tractors falling on them over the past couple years so I guess it's a pretty real danger in his eyes. My safety plan for now is to get jackstands with pins in them instead of just the rachety thing, shake the car a bit once it's on stands to make sure it's stable, and then stack spare wheels under the car.
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Aug 20, 2015 16:44
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I need some advice because I did something stupid. I bought a 2003 Dodge Neon, 125k miles, and the car was clean, drives tight, shifted well, everything about it seemed great. Then 2 weeks later the transmission cooler/radiator goes kaboom and the repair bill is $3100 which is more than the car is worth. Repairs include new rad/cooler, new hoses, rebuilt transmission, 3 new motor mounts (1 broken, 2 cracked). The repair guy came recommended by friends and he seems on the up and up, not pushy, showed me all the parts he removed and explained why they needed replaced. So my choice is either dump more money into the car and be upside down; or walk away and sell it for what I can get taking a big loss. He did an inspection and says the car is in great condition besides what's already broken. Honestly there is a gamble either way and I'm not sure what to do. I keep going back and forth. Any helpful advice is welcome.
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Aug 20, 2015 17:27
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powderific posted:My wife and my father are convinced I'm going to die if I get under my Miata while it's on jackstands. Weirdly, my dad knows 4 different people who've died in his 800 person town from cars/tractors falling on them over the past couple years so I guess it's a pretty real danger in his eyes. My safety plan for now is to get jackstands with pins in them instead of just the rachety thing, shake the car a bit once it's on stands to make sure it's stable, and then stack spare wheels under the car. You've got the right idea. In addition to the spare tires, an additional option is to get some ramps and shove them under whichever side of the car you need to be under. Last time I had to have my car completely in the air (for a transmission/differential oil change) it was up on four jack stands, had ramps under the front wheels, and my winter wheels stacked underneath it. If you have enough stuff to catch the car in the event that something fails there's really not much to worry about.
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Aug 20, 2015 18:06
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powderific posted:My wife and my father are convinced I'm going to die if I get under my Miata while it's on jackstands. Weirdly, my dad knows 4 different people who've died in his 800 person town from cars/tractors falling on them over the past couple years so I guess it's a pretty real danger in his eyes. My safety plan for now is to get jackstands with pins in them instead of just the rachety thing, shake the car a bit once it's on stands to make sure it's stable, and then stack spare wheels under the car. Concrete pill for you too.
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Aug 20, 2015 20:02
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Concrete pills can only do so much. I'm terminally soft.
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Aug 20, 2015 20:16
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wormil posted:I need some advice because I did something stupid. I bought a 2003 Dodge Neon, 125k miles, and the car was clean, drives tight, shifted well, everything about it seemed great. Then 2 weeks later the transmission cooler/radiator goes kaboom and the repair bill is $3100 which is more than the car is worth. Repairs include new rad/cooler, new hoses, rebuilt transmission, 3 new motor mounts (1 broken, 2 cracked). The repair guy came recommended by friends and he seems on the up and up, not pushy, showed me all the parts he removed and explained why they needed replaced. So my choice is either dump more money into the car and be upside down; or walk away and sell it for what I can get taking a big loss. He did an inspection and says the car is in great condition besides what's already broken. Honestly there is a gamble either way and I'm not sure what to do. I keep going back and forth. Any helpful advice is welcome. Offer it to the mechanic for scrap and walk away. Fixing a neon is an exercise in futility, there will be more major repairs, sooner than you think. For $3100 you should be able to get a much more reliable car.
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Aug 20, 2015 20:27
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Vehicle: 2003 Chevy Malibu Standard Problem: There's no rhyme or reason that I can discern for this, but my turn signals will stop working randomly. When they stop working, neither the lights themselves nor the indicators on the dash light up. Sometimes they don't work for days at a time, sometimes it's just 10 minutes, and sometimes they will just quit while waiting for a green light. I've taken it into Firestone a few times, but the signals conveniently work when the techs get their hands on it. I could get an electric diagnosis, but there's no guarantee that it will turn up anything. My buddy thinks that it's either a bad ground or a malfunction with the actual handle. He hates electric work, so he doesn't want to dig through the dash on a wild goose chase. Thoughts?
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Aug 20, 2015 20:43
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Next time they act up, see if your hazard light switch does anything.
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Aug 20, 2015 20:47
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I have an occasional turn signal malfunction, and it's due to the ignition switch. Wiggling the key in the ignition solved the problem for me. The signals work off of switched 12V, so I guess it's possible to have the key in a position where the car runs normally but doesn't quite make contact with the terminal that runs the blinkers. Probably a 2003 would have a bit more sophisticated electrical system than a 1965, but it's worth a brief look I suppose.
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Aug 20, 2015 20:50
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IOwnCalculus posted:Next time they act up, see if your hazard light switch does anything. I forgot to mention that I tried that, and the hazard button also doesn't work. Think that's the culprit?
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Aug 20, 2015 20:50
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Shadow225 posted:I forgot to mention that I tried that, and the hazard button also doesn't work. Think that's the culprit? I was going to say it's probably the flasher, but apparently on your car, the flasher and the hazard switch are the same loving part. It also seems to be a fairly common problem based on Google. Give this a look over. If that doesn't fix it, the only other likely option would be the turn signal switch in the column, but I'd try that flasher first.
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Aug 20, 2015 20:56
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1995? Jeep XJ Cherokee. 4.0L auto, Dana 35 I'm sure this is a stupid question but it's bothering me a lot. I just slid under to try and track down a mysterious clunk clunk clunk which occurs sometimes when taking off from a stop. First thing I did was grab the rear propshaft and try to wiggle and turn it. Absolutely no movement. None. Is this normal? usually on vehicles I can rotate the shaft a little or maybe see a slight perceptible wobble. But on the Jeep there's nothing. It might as well be welded solid. Should I be concerned about zero play or movement?
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Aug 21, 2015 00:39
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I saw a neon the other day (very, very rare here) and it looked pretty much like all the first gen neons do (so completely hosed) but it had an asymmetric bonnet bulge. Not a plastic blister or some stupid aftermarket bullshit, it was a prominent power bulge in the bonnet, offset to the right hand side, looked entirely factory and the paint of the bonnet matched the car 100%. Is this some kind of bizarre special edition or something, or did I see someone's even more bizarre past project?
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Aug 21, 2015 01:25
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How prominent? The ACR had one, but I think all the DOHC Neons did too. Not sure if they were the same hood or not.
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Aug 21, 2015 01:45
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I'd say a good 3-4 inches above the regular bonnet height, looked far too well formed and designed to be something someone would do at home. Rest of the car looked like a bog stock POS neon.
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Aug 21, 2015 04:25
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