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BloodBag posted:That's a corvette. You can see the torque tube behind the engine going to the transaxle at the back. I think it would make a nice quad ride  Platystemon posted:Did someone say “flames”?  14 INCH SLIT posted:That's not a horrible electrical failure, this is a horrible electrical failure. Warthog posted:I am a good mechanic I sent this to a friend who is a manager at Brakes Plus, his response: quote:Did they go to brakes plus? If so that is the "plus". Ferremit posted:I can't ever see that working- Toyota deliberately dumbed down the temp gauges in their cars for YEARS because retards would see it fluctuate with engine load and outsid temp and freak out and call the dealer. My new forester is like this. Tons of information displays, when you first start the car you get a blue thermometer. Pretty much nothing else ever. Even the gas gauge is a useless set of 8 bars. At least the info center tells you range of many miles you have left. Many a time have I sailed in from out of state after the zeros have been replaced with dashes. spog posted:Okay pop quiz. What's do these icons mean? Your free trial of Zuma has expired. Please pay for shareware.
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Aug 16, 2015 23:02
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there was a clunk   from what I can tell, that nut didn't get torqued down properly and slowly backed off over the last 1500 miles, leading to odd handling characteristics (like oversteering on sharp uphill right turns) and eventually to wedging the end link into the control arm, which I'm no longer sure is straight.
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Aug 17, 2015 10:36
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It probably didn't hurt anything. Those control arms are pretty beefy castings and I can't imagine they'd bend instead of the endlink.
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Aug 17, 2015 14:33
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atomicthumbs posted:there was a clunk  swaybar failure buddy 
GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 14:59 on Aug 17, 2015 |
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Aug 17, 2015 14:53
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Yeah the endlink is probably designed to break before the control arms. They are usually quite flimsy. I've seen swaybars break before, usually from rust.
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Aug 17, 2015 15:05
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Whitelineeeeee Also we broke an endlink on the rally car this summer. Been meaning to try no front bar anyways and I actually liked it with the broken link. You win some you lose some. Definitely fixed the broken endlinks on sisters Jeep though.
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Aug 17, 2015 15:35
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atomicthumbs posted:there was a clunk Earlier in the year while a group of friends were commuting in prep for a bachelor party, two guys in a 6 month old, 4000 mile Dodge Ram started to feel a nasty vibration, followed by a hell of a lot of clanging and no power. They coasted into a parking lot to check and found that the drive shaft had one bolt with no nut, and a sheared bolt. It appears that they hadn't bothered to tighten the one down at the factory, and once it slipped lose the other sheared pretty quickly. The drive shaft banged the gently caress out of the fuel tank and whatever else. Two Dodge dealerships... the one nearest to the incident and the one across town he'd bought it from... initially declined to repair it beyond putting new bolts in to the drive shaft because "it's fine". It took a month and a lot of bitching to get them to replace the drive shaft, and last I heard he was still fighting them on the dented up fuel tank. Haven't talked to him in a while, should check in and see how that went.
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Aug 17, 2015 17:09
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Iridium posted:Earlier in the year while a group of friends were commuting in prep for a bachelor party, two guys in a 6 month old, 4000 mile Dodge Ram started to feel a nasty vibration, followed by a hell of a lot of clanging and no power. They coasted into a parking lot to check and found that the drive shaft had one bolt with no nut, and a sheared bolt. It appears that they hadn't bothered to tighten the one down at the factory, and once it slipped lose the other sheared pretty quickly. The drive shaft banged the gently caress out of the fuel tank and whatever else. americancars.jpeg
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Aug 17, 2015 18:30
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chrysler.txt
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Aug 17, 2015 18:50
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Iridium posted:Dodge That about sums it up.
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Aug 17, 2015 18:51
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I think I posted it in the chat thread but yea just got new wheel bearings put on my Dodge a couple weeks ago. Failed at literally 29,999 :/ Also replaced the catalytic converter at a little over 12k miles and then found out like a week later that there was a recall for it and I could have gotten it done for free. poo poo was like $400 too since its part of the y-pipe. e: Oh yea the ball joints were just done about a week before the wheel bearings.
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Aug 17, 2015 18:58
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Fart Pipe posted:Also replaced the catalytic converter at a little over 12k miles and then found out like a week later that there was a recall for it and I could have gotten it done for free. poo poo was like $400 too since its part of the y-pipe.
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Aug 17, 2015 19:01
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slidebite posted:I've known a couple people that paid for repairs only to have them later covered by a recall and both were able to get some (but maybe not all) reimbursement. Yea someone else told me that too but by then it was probably way too late. That and the truck was 12 years old at that point so it might have been a battle.
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Aug 17, 2015 19:05
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slidebite posted:I've known a couple people that paid for repairs only to have them later covered by a recall and both were able to get some (but maybe not all) reimbursement. All the recalls I've gotten have included a section about how they will reimburse if you paid for the repairs out of pocket and had a form to fill out if that was the case.
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Aug 17, 2015 19:43
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Das Volk posted:Something like this I imagine That's not your new one is it? e: duh, clicked to YT and it's from last year.
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Aug 17, 2015 19:52
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Iridium posted:Earlier in the year while a group of friends were commuting in prep for a bachelor party, two guys in a 6 month old, 4000 mile Dodge Ram started to feel a nasty vibration, followed by a hell of a lot of clanging and no power. They coasted into a parking lot to check and found that the drive shaft had one bolt with no nut, and a sheared bolt. It appears that they hadn't bothered to tighten the one down at the factory, and once it slipped lose the other sheared pretty quickly. The drive shaft banged the gently caress out of the fuel tank and whatever else. Wonder how long those pinion bearings and/or transfer case rear output bearings and tailcone will last in their well-peened state. Was this a carrier bearing that came loose or the end of the driveshaft at the pinion?
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Aug 17, 2015 23:52
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kastein posted:Wonder how long those pinion bearings and/or transfer case rear output bearings and tailcone will last in their well-peened state. Was this a carrier bearing that came loose or the end of the driveshaft at the pinion? afraid I don't know, I wasn't there and got the whole story second hand before the lot of us went out and got loving wrecked. actually it just now occurs to me i never saw the truck again, he stopped driving it while he was trying to get poo poo taken care of and haven't talked to him since june. he was trying to get them to replace the whole thing and/or extend the warranty, expecting further unknown issues tho.
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Aug 18, 2015 02:45
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Coincidentally, friend of mine emailed me this today. He had a surprise when he popped the head off their Jetta.
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Aug 18, 2015 03:31
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Is that the remains of a cotter pin?
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Aug 18, 2015 03:46
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Yeah the endlink is probably designed to break before the control arms. They are usually quite flimsy. BMWs with larger than stock swaybars that get tracked can rip the mount right out of the body.
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Aug 18, 2015 04:33
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Yeah, that's fairly common on pre-04 Subarus with aftermarket rear bars, before they beefed up the mount. Who would have ever thought an immense lever-arm spring designed to control weight transfer on the body of a three to four thousand pound car is under a lot of strain?
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Aug 18, 2015 04:36
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Humbug Scoolbus posted:Is that the remains of a cotter pin? Not as impressive as a bolt, but yes.
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Aug 18, 2015 05:44
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I drive tow truck and saw this motherfucker sticking out while changing the tire. it's a Robertson bit for a drill.
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Aug 18, 2015 06:07
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BlackMK4 posted:BMWs with larger than stock swaybars that get tracked will rip the mount right out of the body. Fixed that for you.
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Aug 18, 2015 14:39
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Speaking of front ends, we bent a Mazda Tribute control arm trying to press in a new ball joint this weekend. Would have taken a picture, but my hands were oily from changing the oil.
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Aug 19, 2015 03:23
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QuarkMartial posted:Speaking of front ends, we bent a Mazda Tribute control arm trying to press in a new ball joint this weekend. Would have taken a picture, but my hands were oily from changing the oil. The Mazda Tribute/Ford Escape is a horrible mechanical failure in and of itself and those lovely stamped steel control arms are just one of many reasons why. I've been there myself more than once; and have had more than one brought in that someone tried to replace the lower ball joint only to distort the arm to the point where it simply falls right out of the hole it was once pressed into.  Not that the replacement ball joint is much better anyway, besides a grease fitting to annually lubricate it:  There are slightly better quality ones out there that come with an upper snap ring, which I think should be mandatory with this design. It still won't prevent a failure, but it should at least buy you enough time to stop and get somewhere safely if/when it first lets go. Ask me how I know.  But wait! If the ball joint manages to survive long enough, you'll one day see the rearward control arm bushing completely separate itself from the outer sleeve it was once molded securely into:  This arm looks like its very near the frame. Eventually it will tear free entirely and cause the arm to shift and bang around. I have plenty of horrible experiences trying to press these in and out safely as well.  I stopped loving around with them long ago, if it needs either bushing or ball joint, it gets replaced entirely.  Complete arms are more affordable now and most are of comparable OEM quality, so there's that. 
Root Bear fucked around with this message at 06:33 on Aug 19, 2015 |
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Aug 19, 2015 06:31
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That's basically what we ran into. No matter what, the ball joint wanted to go in crooked. Ended up bending the arm, so we took the ball joint back and picked up the control arm for like 30 bucks more. Honestly, it's two bolts and had we known how cheap the arm was, we would've just replaced it first (also for the reasons you described). Not to mention the alternator being tucked down behind the engine against the firewall 
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Aug 19, 2015 14:36
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Ford is notorious for requiring you to replace the entire control arm as opposed to replacing bushings/ball joints. Ranger, Explorer, (I think some F150's?) et al. It's pretty loving frustrating when you find this out AFTER buying all the bushings and ball joints and bushings. Moog makes some great problem solvers, but the likelyhood that you'll ever have to replace the ball joint on that new Moog UCA or LCA is almost zilch. When I wrecked my ranger, the steering knuckle was basically torn from the ball joint. Steering knuckle sheared with a part of it still stuck in the ball joint, which was still fine. Same for the UCA. Edit:  GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 17:43 on Aug 19, 2015 |
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Aug 19, 2015 15:05
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slidebite posted:Coincidentally, friend of mine emailed me this today. He had a surprise when he popped the head off their Jetta. *POP* *BING!BING!BING!BING!BING!BING!BING!BING!BING!BING!BING!BING!BING!BING!BING!BING!BING!BING!BING!BING!BING!BING!BING!BING!* HIGH SCORE!
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Aug 20, 2015 03:56
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>INSERT COINS TO CONTINUE...
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Aug 20, 2015 05:32
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Think I broke a front sway bar mount, again. The car came with a broken one, which the dealer fixed. loving things are plastic, and I've put almost 60k on the car since I got it (had 66k when I bought it). Heard a bang going around a turn when I hit a bump and felt the car jerk, now I hear a clunking from the front right when I hit bumps, and the front feels a bit looser. At least they're dirt cheap, and easy to swap. Iridium posted:Earlier in the year while a group of friends were commuting in prep for a bachelor party, two guys in a 6 month old, 4000 mile Dodge Ram started to feel a nasty vibration, followed by a hell of a lot of clanging and no power. They coasted into a parking lot to check and found that the drive shaft had one bolt with no nut, and a sheared bolt. It appears that they hadn't bothered to tighten the one down at the factory, and once it slipped lose the other sheared pretty quickly. The drive shaft banged the gently caress out of the fuel tank and whatever else. A friend's 2013 300 has been in and out of the shop more than a dozen times since it was new. Almost every time was because the charging system went into "gently caress you" mode, and she'd try to limp it to the dealer, but it'd usually die from the now-dead battery. When she did make it, they'd see the "Reduced Power" error showing on the DIC, drive it into the service bay, and shut it off... at which point, whatever caused the alternator to poo poo would reset itself. They'd charge the battery, and suddenly there's no issue, so... and alternator issues are a very well known issue on the 300. She also took it in for a wheel bearing, got it back with the wheel bearing still making horrible noises. Went right back, dragged the service advisor out (who swore up and down it'd been replaced) and made him ride in the car. He agreed "we hosed up", management got involved, a tech got fired, etc. Right now it's in the shop, yet again (been there over a week now), because it has some really odd dealer-installed headlight option (HID low beams, halogen high beams, LED turn signal strips within the housings.... except the low and high beams always stay on together on one side), and one of the LED turn signal strips quit working. They're having a really hard time tracking down a replacement, and also unfucking the wiring on it. I've seen those housings with a single headlamp bulb on newer 300s as a factory option, but not the dual headlamp version she has. Pretty sure it was ordered as a demo car, as it has just about every dealer installed option you can get, and most factory options (also had over 50 miles when she got it). Neither of us can even find a picture of the exact headlights it has on Google. Fart Pipe posted:Also replaced the catalytic converter at a little over 12k miles and then found out like a week later that there was a recall for it and I could have gotten it done for free. poo poo was like $400 too since its part of the y-pipe. If you have the receipt for the cat still (I'm OCD about keeping all of my maintenance receipts, or scanning them), FCA might reimburse you for the cat. I know GM reimbursed a ton of people who replaced power steering motors or ignition switches even though there was a recall. Also there's a federally mandated 80k/8 year warranty on cats and ECUs, so it should have been paid for by Dodge anyway if it was ~8 years old. They may goodwill it based on the super low mileage at the time.
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Aug 20, 2015 09:13
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some texas redneck posted:Think I broke a front sway bar mount, again. The car came with a broken one, which the dealer fixed. loving things are plastic, and I've put almost 60k on the car since I got it (had 66k when I bought it). Heard a bang going around a turn when I hit a bump and felt the car jerk, now I hear a clunking from the front right when I hit bumps, and the front feels a bit looser. Plastic... sway bar mounts?  Who wants to make bets on the first plastic control arms? Edit: On a full size vehicles, for you folks with real intelligent backsides. 
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Aug 20, 2015 12:20
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Vw and they will say it'd made out of superior strength plastics engineered in germany. The arm will be fine but they'll use poo poo bolts that will snap in the center while connected to thr welded on nut on the mount. They will also mount it so that the engine and fenders need to be removed to fix it. Ford they will toute it as an eco plastic saving weight and made from sustainable natural materials.. it will biodegrade while in use and cause a recall. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 13:29 on Aug 20, 2015 |
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Aug 20, 2015 13:20
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Nissan will make one out of whale oil that mounts inside the cabin through woven reed grommets.
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Aug 20, 2015 17:48
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I'm betting STR means plastic sway bar links. I see Fords come through all the time with the ball ripped out of the plastic arm. Pretty sure GM used similar ones on quite a few vehicles.
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Aug 20, 2015 20:26
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Root Bear posted:The Mazda Tribute/Ford Escape is a horrible mechanical failure in and of itself and those lovely stamped steel control arms are just one of many reasons why. I've been there myself more than once; and have had more than one brought in that someone tried to replace the lower ball joint only to distort the arm to the point where it simply falls right out of the hole it was once pressed into. This applys to the Jeep Patriot, compass, caliber... It is much easier to buy the full control arms with new bushings and ball joint than it is to press a new ball joint in... 6 month after having a moog ball joint pressed in I started getting a bad clunk turning out to be that the pressed ball joint had started ovaling the hole and was only being held in by the c-clip. Welded that back in place until a get a new control arm.. The rear bushing failed like above. Pressed in a new one and attempted to press in the front bushing but it got mangled. The new control arm comes loaded with bushings and ball joints. 
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Aug 20, 2015 21:31
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After working on many Mazda's and escapes I will only putt new ball joints in solid axle vehicles. Because gently caress putting one in a control arm that only costs 40$ more than the ball joint. People who do get that ball joint to go in still have other problems that the falling apart ball joint hid.
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Aug 20, 2015 23:40
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Today's mechanical failure was more of a "what the gently caress is this doing in this spot on this engine" failure. I have the GM L61 (2.2L Ecotec) in my car, and needed to replace the thermostat. Dug up all the info from the internets, even looked at YouTube. It looked like a pain in the rear end (and it was), but... The thermostat was not where anything said it would be. In fact, the coolant crossover pipe was completely different, and the thermostat housing wound up being in a completely different place (under the hood instead of attached to the crossover pipe). As it turns out, it has parts of the LE5 (2.4L Ecotec) cooling system in it, from what I can tell. It's an original 2.2L car going by the VIN, I have no reason to think the engine has been replaced (the only bolts I've touched that had been touched before I got there were brake-related), but some hamfisting went on at some point, probably during assembly. Also didn't even have the original thermostat, though I bought it at 66k (has almost 120k now). Because I spent so much time scratching my head and looking at exploded parts diagrams, I spent over an hour under the car trying to figure out what I wasn't seeing. Finally noticed the lower radiator hose connects at a completely different spot than it should; I'm guessing if/when I replace that hose I'll have to go with the 2.4 hose. Or buy one, pop the hood, and compare.  Turned what should have been an hour or so job into nearly 3 hours, partly because I don't own any wobble joints (and one of the bolts on the thermostat housing is in a very, very tight place). Dexcool burns like hell when you crack open the block drain plug and it splashes everywhere (including your eyes). Beach Bum posted:Plastic... sway bar mounts? Sorry. Meant end links. I was tired.  I was under the car today though, and both of them looked fine. So I have a couple of new noises to chase down.I was pretty surprised how cheap the lower control arms were too - just thin stamped steel.  And to think I had put a jack stand under one of them (couldn't get the car high enough to get under by the normal lift points).PitViper posted:I'm betting STR means plastic sway bar links. I see Fords come through all the time with the ball ripped out of the plastic arm. Pretty sure GM used similar ones on quite a few vehicles. Correct. I was way too tired when I made that post. They're basically wear items on Delta-platform cars (Cobalt, G5, Ion, HHR). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:41 on Aug 21, 2015 |
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Aug 21, 2015 05:34
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Right in the middle of an incredibly busy day with everything I was using thrown half asset into the top of the cart.
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Aug 21, 2015 05:57
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Some evo "shop" in socal thought this was an appropriate way to install an aftermarket fuel pump that didn't fit in the stock housing: You can buy either a direct drop in pump, or an adapter to fit others like the aem pictured or a walbro or whatever.. Guy paid for an adapter (probably this), brought it to RRE for a tune and they found that. jamal fucked around with this message at 06:06 on Aug 21, 2015 |
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Aug 21, 2015 06:04
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