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When stopping, if I know I'm coming to a complete stop, I just leave it in gear until the tach hits about 1000, then put it in neutral. If I suspect I may be having to move before I've completely stopped (such as coming up on a red light that I think will change to green soon), I'll downshift into whatever gear I think I'll need to keep moving, and keep the clutch depressed. If I'm starting out, I give it enough gas to start smoothly while letting the clutch out at the same time, so there's a little bit of slipping going on. I personally try not to slip the clutch unless it's necessary, so basically the clutch only gets used as more than an on/off switch in 1st and reverse. But I'm also kind of anal about trying to somewhat rev match if I have to downshift, so I may be a bit more OCD than most (I'm not a fan of replacing clutches, especially in a FWD car). EightBit posted:As long as you don't slip the clutch for more than a second and don't lug the engine, you're doing fine. e;f;b, but basically what he said. I've also owned a couple of cars with worn out synchros, which is how I picked up the rev-matching habit while downshifting. It was the only way I could downshift into 2nd on two of my cars v  v (or even upshift into 2nd on one of them)
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:34 on Sep 16, 2015 |
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Sep 16, 2015 06:30
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Ugh. The clutch is a loving wear item. Yeah, if you abuse it you're going to end up replacing it early but as long as you're not driving like a complete douche or in a Subaru, it'll last 100k+. I swapped the clutch out of a '66 Corvette with 110,000 miles about five years ago and aside from the broken spring it actually had a lot of life left.
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Sep 16, 2015 07:15
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some texas redneck posted:I personally try not to slip the clutch unless it's necessary, so basically the clutch only gets used as more than an on/off switch in 1st and reverse. But I'm also kind of anal about trying to somewhat rev match if I have to downshift, so I may be a bit more OCD than most (I'm not a fan of replacing clutches, especially in a FWD car). How do you deal with the bit of jerkiness during the moment you let the clutch go and stepping on the gas? Just live with it I guess? Or am I unclutching at too high (or low?) rpm?
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Sep 16, 2015 07:39
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When people say don't slip the clutch they mean don't sit there holding the car on the clutch for 2 minutes when you're stopped at a light. They don't mean "OMG IF YOU SLIP THE CLUTCH EVER THEN YOU WILL DESTROY IT IN 20 MILES!!!!!". Slipping it for a second when pulling away is fine. Clutches aren't made of tissue paper.
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Sep 16, 2015 10:50
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My wife's 98 civic has 260k miles on the original clutch. She's owned it since it had 40k miles. She doesn't do anything abnormal, she just drives it and she definitely drives it hard.
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Sep 16, 2015 11:10
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two_beer_bishes posted:My wife's 98 civic has 260k miles on the original clutch. She's owned it since it had 40k miles. She doesn't do anything abnormal, she just drives it and she definitely drives it hard.  Doesn't help my friend told me how he had to get a clutch plate replaced that ended up costing a few thousand dollars. But thanks for the responses. Sounds like I've doing most things right Away all Goats fucked around with this message at 11:40 on Sep 16, 2015 |
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Sep 16, 2015 11:26
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Away all Goats posted:How do you deal with the bit of jerkiness during the moment you let the clutch go and stepping on the gas? Just live with it I guess? Or am I unclutching at too high (or low?) rpm? Do you mean when downshifting? If so, you need to learn to revmatch as mentioned earlier in the thread, by blipping the throttle right before letting the clutch out. If you match the revs with the roadspeed, your downshift can be as smoother than an automatics. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3oq3qlrgHc
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Sep 16, 2015 12:17
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I'm looking to sell my 2004 Mitsubishi Outlander and I'm wondering what a decent price for it would be. The good: FWD automatic LS, 4 cyl, 146k miles, interior good, glass all intact, electrics all working, great A/C, moon roof. Newish tires. New brakes. No (known) engine or transmission problems, aftermarket CD player with aux/USB. The bad: Needs new radiator/hoses/thermostat, new front and rear struts, new power steering hose, needs pretty much all the 150k mile maintenance (coolant flush, transmission flush, alignment, spark plugs, etc), pretty much every single body panel badly dinged by hail. I was thinking $600 since I was told once that "any car that runs is worth $600" but I'd certainly be happy if I thought I could ask a bit more. Edit: sold for $800 to the very first person to respond to my ad. Dude sat out in front of my house and replaced the radiator right there. Probably a flipper. Good for him. I'm glad the car is gone. Imagined fucked around with this message at 18:40 on Sep 16, 2015 |
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Sep 16, 2015 14:11
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PaintVagrant posted:Do you mean when downshifting? If so, you need to learn to revmatch as mentioned earlier in the thread, by blipping the throttle right before letting the clutch out. If you match the revs with the roadspeed, your downshift can be as smoother than an automatics. This video's technique is not what you're supposed to do when rev-matching. He doesn't double clutch, so the synchros are still getting overworked. The throttle blip has to occur with the clutch pedal released, gear lever in neutral; this spins up the clutch disk and input shaft so that the synchronizers barely have to change their rotating speed. Once you've spun up the clutch disk, you push the clutch pedal and shift into a lower gear.
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Sep 16, 2015 15:39
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StormDrain posted:1972 international pickup, v8 with dual exhaust. Update, went to another shop and was quoted 700. Whew!
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Sep 16, 2015 17:12
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-snip- It got sold before I could act. Proletarian Mango fucked around with this message at 17:40 on Sep 16, 2015 |
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Sep 16, 2015 17:29
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Upmarket Mango posted:I don't know anything about VWs. I'm looking at a '94 Jetta III to get me through the next year or so. It apparently runs great, has good tires, brakes, clutch, engine, muffler, and interior, but it's got 228,000 miles. I've heard VWs can last a while, but like I said, I don't know anything about them. I am a poor college student with court fees to pay as well so the $700 price tag is pretty attractive. If it is worth taking a look at, what kind of things should I look for?
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Sep 16, 2015 17:35
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scuz posted:Which engine? My dad is piecing together a '92 Eco Diesel and I've been wrenching on my '02 2.0L Golf for a while. Is there a service history available? There are things that need to be done to VWs at a regular interval and it depends on the engine. That price point makes me think something's gone horribly wrong; many similar vintage "runs and drives" Jettas in my neck of the woods usually go for twice that. Well I just called on it to ask about it and apparently it sold this morning, so welp. Guess you can ignore this.
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Sep 16, 2015 17:39
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EightBit posted:This video's technique is not what you're supposed to do when rev-matching. He doesn't double clutch, so the synchros are still getting overworked. The throttle blip has to occur with the clutch pedal released, gear lever in neutral; this spins up the clutch disk and input shaft so that the synchronizers barely have to change their rotating speed. Once you've spun up the clutch disk, you push the clutch pedal and shift into a lower gear. This is the first time I've read about double clutching being recommended for cars with synchros. Rather, usually recommendations to double clutch are soon followed by people saying it is not necessary if you have synchronized gears. Driving shouldn't be rocket science, obviously, but there's always going to be an opinion counter to what a person has been taught previously. It makes it really hard to sort through it and find the ideal technique. Maybe if they taught it in driving schools here (the US) it would be more standardized. EDIT: After searching a bit, such classes are indeed available in larger cities. I may look into that some day when I move, and see what a standard curriculum really teaches about stick driving. The Ferret King fucked around with this message at 19:39 on Sep 16, 2015 |
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Sep 16, 2015 19:34
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I double clutch all my synchronized transmissions when downshifting because its fun and sounds cool. You can tell when you get it just right because there will be no resistance when you put it in gear. Also gives me practice for driving my old dump truck which isnt synchroed at all.
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Sep 16, 2015 19:41
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Enourmo posted:Alright, so I just got home, checked the resting voltage and it's sitting at 11.74. So clearly the battery is hosed. Batteries don't just discharge on their own, though, so something is probably turbofucked in the charging system. tater_salad posted:I'm voting bad alternator with with side of over discharged / hosed battery. Geoj posted:
I ended up picking up a battery with my mom's car (since mine was undriveable) and dropping it in in my driveway. PLOT TWIST: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kLJ1GorYTEM So maybe my MAF sensor is hosed now? Should I try driving the car up with it unplugged and see if they can pull codes?
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Sep 16, 2015 20:05
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The Ferret King posted:This is the first time I've read about double clutching being recommended for cars with synchros. Rather, usually recommendations to double clutch are soon followed by people saying it is not necessary if you have synchronized gears. Synchronizers are wear items as well, though they are quite a bit harder and more expensive to replace than a clutch. They don't have to do much when you are upshifting, as the clutch disk will spin down a bit just from bearing drag, but if you inelegantly slam your transmission into a lower gear, you put an abrupt and heavy load on that synchronizer. You can't shift a manual transmission without something doing the work of changing the clutch disk speed to match the gear you want to shift to. When you do it perfectly, there is no resistance on the gear lever, it just slides right in. Shifting too fast, without revmatching, you can feel resistance as the synchronizer hasn't synchronized the input shaft with the countershaft; when you really slam it you'll feel the lock ring working, too. So many youtube videos show people slamming the lever around, which wrecks the internals. Keep abusing your synchronizers and you'll end up with a notchy gearbox. Double-clutch downshifting is a technique to extend the life of your wear parts, or to work around a worn out synchronizer. Some transmissions have weak synchros that you can wreck with just a few bad shifts (NV3550 3rd gear being one of them, it is basically a piece of glorified sandpaper glued to a steel ring), so knowing how to do this can come in real handy if you have an older vehicle with a manual transmission.
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Sep 16, 2015 20:16
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Ive got a 15 dollar gift card to autozone and I'm wondering if any of those headlight restoration kits are worthwhile? My headlights are dirty as hell. Any product recommendations? 08 Hyundai Sonata if that matters.
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Sep 16, 2015 21:04
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Crunkjuice posted:Ive got a 15 dollar gift card to autozone and I'm wondering if any of those headlight restoration kits are worthwhile? My headlights are dirty as hell. Any product recommendations? 08 Hyundai Sonata if that matters. I believe Turtle Wax makes one, many other products out there for it. I used one on my '02 Honda Accord and it did pretty well, it didn't get some of the harder stuff that was more baked on there, but I noticed a big difference at night. Way better than spending $60 or $70 on some mechanic or dealership to do it. All it is, is basically different grits of sandpaper with lube so that you don't scratch the light covers themselves. At least the ones I've seen. There might be some other way to do it. e: There's plenty of DIY ways to do it too if you look online, most involve cleaning the headlight of debris, then using a sponge and extremely fine sandpaper and water, increasing the grit number as you go along, then finishing off with soap and water and then wax. I'd wax them for sure, can help seal them from further oxidation. life is killing me fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Sep 16, 2015 |
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Sep 16, 2015 21:11
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Sandpaper and polishing compound. Though that price isn't much worse than you'd pay buying the stuff separately, I guess.
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Sep 16, 2015 21:50
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So I got the car to the parts store, it's throwing codes for the MAF and fuel pressure regulator. I've got college poo poo to do and I don't have time for that kind of diag, so unfortunately it's up to the mechanic's shop now. Hopefully the damage won't be too bad.
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Sep 16, 2015 21:54
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EightBit posted:Synchronizers are wear items as well, though they are quite a bit harder and more expensive to replace than a clutch. They don't have to do much when you are upshifting, as the clutch disk will spin down a bit just from bearing drag, but if you inelegantly slam your transmission into a lower gear, you put an abrupt and heavy load on that synchronizer. You can't shift a manual transmission without something doing the work of changing the clutch disk speed to match the gear you want to shift to. When you do it perfectly, there is no resistance on the gear lever, it just slides right in. Shifting too fast, without revmatching, you can feel resistance as the synchronizer hasn't synchronized the input shaft with the countershaft; when you really slam it you'll feel the lock ring working, too. So many youtube videos show people slamming the lever around, which wrecks the internals. Keep abusing your synchronizers and you'll end up with a notchy gearbox. This really all makes perfect sense. It's just not the sort of information you get consistently when searching online for turorials on driving modern manuals. It's pretty frustrating trying to piece together healthy and effective driving habits.
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Sep 16, 2015 22:17
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Anyone with leather car seats with those little holes in them, have any experience with cleaning those seats? I don't want to mess anything up, but I had a lasagna spill in my back seat and now have tomato sauce and ricotta in the holes. The back seats aren't heated like the front seats, but I'm not sure if there's anything else I'd mess up, and I don't want mildew or something. How do I clean the goddamn seats?
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Sep 16, 2015 22:28
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life is killing me posted:Anyone with leather car seats with those little holes in them, have any experience with cleaning those seats? I don't want to mess anything up, but I had a lasagna spill in my back seat and now have tomato sauce and ricotta in the holes. The back seats aren't heated like the front seats, but I'm not sure if there's anything else I'd mess up, and I don't want mildew or something. Use a leather cleaner with a microfiber/terry/paper cloth to wet the affected area, then use a powerful vacuum. Should clear up the holes, might need to repeat a few times to get it completely clear. Goodluck
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Sep 16, 2015 22:38
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Away all Goats posted:How do you deal with the bit of jerkiness during the moment you let the clutch go and stepping on the gas? Just live with it I guess? Or am I unclutching at too high (or low?) rpm? You eventually figure out the right combination of throttle and clutch to launch smoothly.  There will always be a slight amount of jerk (wow that sounds really wrong) when launching in 1st and reverse, but practice and knowing your car will make it a lot smoother.Ideally for upshifting, you'll get into the habit of hitting the clutch at the exact moment that you let off of the throttle (or for the person, figuring out the lag between the electronic pedal and the electronic throttle body to do the same thing), so that both you and your passengers only experience a lack of acceleration for a second or so during shifts instead of... jerking.
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Sep 17, 2015 01:32
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If you have to deal with throttle-by-wire combined with a manual, it might be worth your time to see if you can get it programmed to reduce lag.
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Sep 17, 2015 02:41
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EightBit posted:If you have to deal with throttle-by-wire combined with a manual, it might be worth your time to see if you can get it programmed to reduce lag. When I was Jeep shopping, I actually wanted a stick but ended up with a deal on an auto that I couldn't pass up. The throttle lag would have driven me bonkers with a manual.
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Sep 17, 2015 04:30
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Slo-Tek posted:Anything I should look out for? How much is too much to pay to fix a car that starts reliably, and doesn't let the rain in, but is worn down in all other aspects? Depends on how much it all costs, which of those you consider must-haves, and what condition the rest of the car is in. If the chassis is horribly rotten then it might not be worth putting anything other than gas and the occasional fluid into. If you just need to get the A/C working again to make it good enough, that could be a hell of a lot cheaper than trying to fix all of that. Also, why is it only a choice between "fix the ZJ" and "buy something brand new"? If the A/C is the only thing pushing you over the edge on the Grand Cherokee, and you don't want to spend the money to get it back to good enough, then go get the recall done, collect your gift card, sell the thing, and buy a good used car that won't keep you out of the market for 15 years.
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Sep 17, 2015 05:50
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EightBit posted:If you have to deal with throttle-by-wire combined with a manual, it might be worth your time to see if you can get it programmed to reduce lag. You can program those things? Uhsplain yersalf.
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Sep 17, 2015 19:14
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scuz posted:You can program those things? Uhsplain yersalf. Most cars with throttle by wire smooth out throttle inputs to increase economy (abrupt throttle changes wreck fuel economy) and/or have low polling rates on the pedal sensor. Flashing the computer to remove the economy smoothing and/or increase the polling rate makes the throttle more responsive.
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Sep 17, 2015 19:24
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Geoj posted:Most cars with throttle by wire smooth out throttle inputs to increase economy (abrupt throttle changes wreck fuel economy) and/or have low polling rates on the pedal sensor. Flashing the computer to remove the economy smoothing and/or increase the polling rate makes the throttle more responsive. Like with one of these? 300 smackeroos seems steep but if there's no other way to make the car a bit more predictable I guess I'd consider it.
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Sep 17, 2015 19:28
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You could just do it the redneck way and replace it with a cable-operated throttle. My dd doesn't even have ABS, so I can't give you any advice on removing electronic nannies, and whether or not your ECU will bitch if you do.
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Sep 17, 2015 19:51
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EightBit posted:You could just do it the redneck way and replace it with a cable-operated throttle. My dd doesn't even have ABS, so I can't give you any advice on removing electronic nannies, and whether or not your ECU will bitch if you do.
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Sep 17, 2015 19:55
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scuz posted:Like with one of these? 300 smackeroos seems steep but if there's no other way to make the car a bit more predictable I guess I'd consider it. "The Sprint Booster Drive-by-Wire Throttle Delay Eliminator is an electronic device that mounts behind the accelerator pedal, and its simple installation won't affect your vehicle's electronic system. Sprint Booster eliminates the delay of an electronic throttle (drive-by-wire)." How? I really doubt these are anything more than snake oil.
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Sep 17, 2015 20:14
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Safety Dance posted:"The Sprint Booster Drive-by-Wire Throttle Delay Eliminator is an electronic device that mounts behind the accelerator pedal, and its simple installation won't affect your vehicle's electronic system. Sprint Booster eliminates the delay of an electronic throttle (drive-by-wire)."
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Sep 17, 2015 20:25
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PaintVagrant posted:Do you mean when downshifting? If so, you need to learn to revmatch as mentioned earlier in the thread, by blipping the throttle right before letting the clutch out. If you match the revs with the roadspeed, your downshift can be as smoother than an automatics. some texas redneck posted:You eventually figure out the right combination of throttle and clutch to launch smoothly.
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Sep 18, 2015 03:44
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EightBit posted:You could just do it the redneck way and replace it with a cable-operated throttle. My dd doesn't even have ABS, so I can't give you any advice on removing electronic nannies, and whether or not your ECU will bitch if you do. No ABS on mine either. It's a really oddly optioned car - no ABS or traction control, manual transmission, but every other option available except for factory XM radio support. I figure it was either a dealer demo or a special order; leaning toward the former since it wasn't titled until it had a few hundred miles on it. The first one or two years of my car had a cable throttle, but I'm pretty sure the ECU would notice that the throttle body wasn't hooked up and had been swapped for a cable version. There also isn't an idle control valve or fast idle thermo valve on the DBW version, so good luck with cold starts, and have fun when you turn on the a/c.
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Sep 18, 2015 04:28
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I'm pretty sure there was a federal mandate in 2008 or 9 for DBW. Can't find anything substantial outside of theblaze.com-like sites with "LIEBRALS WANT YOUR CAR TO DECIDE WHEN TO ACCELERATE AND KILL YOU!!!!!111" articles, but there's no way all automakers would be putting DBW in the cheapest shitboxes on the road if they didn't have to.
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Sep 18, 2015 04:54
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DBW throttles allow manufacturers to keep their engines in a certain efficiency window and make cruise control and traction control just a matter of adjusting the throttle plate. I know why they are in vehicles, I just think that the response curves for many of them are dangerously slow and add difficulty to driving a manual that didn't exist for many vehicles ten years ago. If I were in charge of integrating them into vehicles, full throttle would be "loving GO" for safety reasons, but gladly, I'm not: I hate designing purposely gimped products because people are loving stupid.
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Sep 18, 2015 05:34
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Geoj posted:I'm pretty sure there was a federal mandate in 2008 or 9 for DBW. Can't find anything substantial outside of theblaze.com-like sites with "LIEBRALS WANT YOUR CAR TO DECIDE WHEN TO ACCELERATE AND KILL YOU!!!!!111" articles, but there's no way all automakers would be putting DBW in the cheapest shitboxes on the road if they didn't have to. I dunno, China is all geared up to make electronics like that dirt cheap, and it eliminates poo poo needing to go through the firewall which probably saves on assembly time. Probably easier to standardize parts across vehicles as well. I'd guess that when all is said and done DBW ends up being cheaper for them.
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Sep 18, 2015 06:55
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