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Raluek posted:IIRC it lacks compared to the LS6 intake, but it's still better than the car intake in pretty much every way except that it's bulky. It's making me second guess the LS1 intake I put on my 5.3, especially because I haven't decided how I'm going to solve the problem of making it fit with the accessories. Gonna have to buy a new water pump, and those suckers aren't cheap compared to the normal gen1 SBC stuff. Its cause of this I'm looking for a SBC due to no one wanting to gently caress with carbs or TBI. They are super cheap as always and parts are cheap and easy to fix. I'm trying to buy an apache that's been abandoned for a while but no one is calling me back. I mean I hopped a fence to put multiple notes sealed in a sandwich bag on the truck. That Z is so pretty and V8 is the best option for old Japanese cars like it.
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Sep 12, 2015 16:04
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SouthsideSaint posted:Its cause of this I'm looking for a SBC due to no one wanting to gently caress with carbs or TBI. They are super cheap as always and parts are cheap and easy to fix. I'm trying to buy an apache that's been abandoned for a while but no one is calling me back. I mean I hopped a fence to put multiple notes sealed in a sandwich bag on the truck. Yea it's true that parts are cheaper for gen1 than gen3/4, but you really do end up with a better motor with the late model stuff. It's a lot easier to build a 400HP LM7 than it is to build a 400HP SBC. Plus, the late model stuff has pretty much everything stock that you'd pay extra to upgrade in a gen1. It's got a roller cam and roller pivot rockers (I guess that's one thing they aren't - roller tip), one piece rear main seal. With a gen1 you have to search to get a 4-bolt main, whereas every gen3/4 motor is 6-bolt. I guess it's not a surprise that they can make 600HP on a stock bottom end reliably, and double that if hotrod is to be believed. But yeah, it's nice to have the simplicity of a carbureted gen1 sometimes, although there are certainly drawbacks.
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Sep 12, 2015 22:59
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Have you checked Motorsport Auto or Black Dragon for the belts? One of the two offers a bolt in retractable belt setup. We have it on my dad's gnose 72.
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Sep 13, 2015 09:20
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mafoose posted:Have you checked Motorsport Auto or Black Dragon for the belts? One of the two offers a bolt in retractable belt setup. We have it on my dad's gnose 72. I didn't even know they made those! However looking at them they are $100 each and still require modification to fit so I'm happy with my choice. I removed the OEM wiper motor and linkage assembly and the actual studs the wiper arms connect to were seized solid. The linkages have a little bit of play in them but not bad for over 40 years old. I greased the linkage and then sprayed the rods with some lubricant. I was able to free one at that point, the other one I soaked in some old motor oil and then broke it free and greased it. While reassembling the linkage to the new Civic wiper motor, I slipped and gashed my thumb pretty good - it broke the corner of my thumbnail off. That poo poo is the worst, mankind needs to evolve those away already because it's easiest the worst pain I've felt in recent years, including hospital trips! Taking a time out and some lunch and then I'll attempt the Datsun to Civic harness conversion.
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Sep 13, 2015 19:23
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Got the wiper upgrade done, everything works like it should now. Need to find a new grommet for the firewall but aside from that we're good to go. Once I find some weatherstrip adhesive for the hatch I might not even be scared of the rain anymore. In the tradition of things going to poo poo, the shop computer took a crap and refuses to boot. It can probably be remedied with a repair install but it lacks a CD/DVD drive so I'll have to load up a USB stick I guess. In the meantime I have no music/internet/alldata in the shop. Hope to figure out the computer and the seat belts before the day is gone - I don't think that's too much to ask.
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Sep 13, 2015 21:49
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FuzzKill posted:Got the wiper upgrade done, everything works like it should now. Need to find a new grommet for the firewall but aside from that we're good to go. Once I find some weatherstrip adhesive for the hatch I might not even be scared of the rain anymore. It's like 8 there. The day is gone.
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Sep 14, 2015 00:36
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Got the seat belts sorted out, with the reels mounted in the current location they are only just long enough for a person of my size. I'll have to figure something else out - but at least I can drive safely for now. Got the shop computer back up and going, had to wipe it and start fresh but I don't really store anything on it so it's not a big deal. Took another job in the shop, transmission swap and brakes on a 2004 GMC 2500 Van. Everything went pretty smoothly, except for the fact that the truck used to be a uhaul van. To keep people from disconnecting the speedo (electronic output on trans) and lying about mileage they install a backing plate behind the VSS and then bolt a cover plate over top of it. This prevents you from unplugging the VSS. It also prevents me from removing the transmission. Once I got the crossmember out of the way I was able to stick my head up far enough to look and see how it was attached. They use 5 sided bolts to bolt it together and the cover plate was too thick for my screw extractor to reach the heads. What a pain in the dick. Overall it was a nice job because he supplied the parts so it's 100% profit. That will probably pay for the transmission for the Z if I can find what I'm looking for ... In other news, the truck has decided that high oil pressure is overrated. Not low enough to trip the light, but single digits at a hot idle (after about 15 minutes). On cold start it's around 40-45psi. Seen around 60psi when revving. I never looked at running oil pressure before so for all I know the sensor could be lying or it could have been like this for a long time. Engine isn't making any noise. I installed a new o-ring twice on the pickup tube, and inspected the rod bearings while the oil pan was off. Everything seems to be OK  .Anyway now I have the LS1 oil pan off the truck and on the aluminum 5.3L that's for the Z. Not sure what parts I'll be getting next for it but always on the lookout.
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Sep 19, 2015 22:35
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Do you have any pics of the uhaul anti tampering device thingie?
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Sep 20, 2015 15:19
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bolind posted:Do you have any pics of the uhaul anti tampering device thingie?  Finally found a transmission so I'm probably going to get the ball rolling soon on the swap. Still need to order exhaust, throttle body, find a harness/ecm, and figure out the accessories and trans mounting setup. When I said T5 before, I was literally talking about a T5. I was specifically looking for one from a 3rd Gen F-body (has the best 1st/5th ratios and is still a world class). However they aren't very easy to find - seems to usually go around $400-500, if you can find one. Not terribly expensive, but a good chunk of change if/when it breaks. I would still need a $200 bellhousing and clutch/hydraulic setup so all in it'd be a bit more. What I ended up getting is a lightly used TKO600. New they go for $2400, I got it for less than half that. It's already set up for GM (input/output spline count), and I got a Lakewood bellhousing along with the clutch and flywheel all included. It's not in my hands yet but I should have it sometime next week. The lakewood bellhousing goes for over $500 new, I was just going to run a stock aluminum housing but now with that in place you guys won't have to worry about me going all Cotton Hill on you.
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Sep 23, 2015 23:16
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5 sided bolts are like the biggest gently caress you in the fastener world. I can't imagine doing that without enough clearance to swing a hammer and chisel.
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Sep 23, 2015 23:32
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FuzzKill posted:a lightly used TKO600 [...] for less than half [of $2400] You bastard!  I paid about that much for a T-56, without the clutch or anything like that.
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Sep 24, 2015 06:22
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Seat Safety Switch posted:5 sided bolts are like the biggest gently caress you in the fastener world. I can't imagine doing that without enough clearance to swing a hammer and chisel. International used to use loving female 5-point on a few of their diff fill/drain plugs in the '80s. I never did find a 5pt allen key for them, but I got a job where I never see crusty old 5-ton shitspreaders anymore so it's a non issue now.
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Sep 24, 2015 15:51
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Parts train WOO WOO! Got the TKO yesterday and brought it back to the shop. I was concerned at first because I couldn't shift it into any gears. I opened up the forward inspection plate and studied the mechanism a little bit while trying to move the shifter around (you could only move it to the right off center, not the left and not forward or backward. Somehow one of the rods/levers was in the gear position rather than the neutral position (even though the shifter was in neutral). I was able to push it back where it was supposed to be and now the shifter clinks into every gear nicely. Must have had a good bump during shipping. Everything else on it seems fine, should be good! I have also acquired an engine harness and PCM for the Z swap, harness came from a 2001 Silverado so there is a lot of crap to remove and some sensors to lengthen/shorten etc. I'll figure out what vehicle I want to use as a base, flash it with the Tech2, and then license that vehicle with HPTuners. As with every progress post, I still have a lot more parts to buy, so I've got my work cut out for me. The engine needs to come out of the Colorado, I have terminal low oil pressure and it's not going to fix itself. Guess that spare 6.0L I have will find a use sooner than later. I am not going to start on the Z until the truck is back in good repair so that at least 2 of my 3 daily vehicles are running.
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Sep 30, 2015 02:27
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Why the gently caress don't you have your own show on horsepower tv again? Can you at least become part of Motoiq east coast wing?
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Sep 30, 2015 22:00
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Average FuzzKill thread update: "Today, I did more on my project than IPCRESS has in the last 15 years, then I had lunch".
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Oct 1, 2015 08:05
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Coredump posted:Why the gently caress don't you have your own show on horsepower tv again? Can you at least become part of Motoiq east coast wing? I assure you I am not that exciting in person. Got most of the top end stuff done on the Colorado last night, tonight I'm going to put it up on the lift to take care of the stuff underneath that needs to get disconnected I pull the motor. Plan was to pull it last night but I had some unexpected company burn up some time and I didn't really feel like finishing after. I did however fix my garage door so I can open it with the opener again, which is much better than the alternative.
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Oct 2, 2015 00:37
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Just curious - you work for a dealer right? Also - In relation to the Celica - How did you run your spark? MS?
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Oct 2, 2015 02:19
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FuzzKill posted:I assure you I am not that exciting in person. Edd China is not that interesting in person I'm sure but I watch that guy on tv. 
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Oct 2, 2015 17:23
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Coredump posted:Edd China is not that interesting in person I'm sure but I watch that guy on tv. He's quite interesting in my opinion. He's a hell of a fabricator and his speed couches are amazing. Super inventive as well, go watch the top gear bond budget car on you tube.
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Oct 3, 2015 01:35
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Main bearings in the truck are hosed. None spun or chewed through, but they were definitely buggered. I feel better about pulling the motor now - because theoretically you can change the mains with the engine in the car. Except for the part that you can't really. In addition to being a poo poo job even on a lift, you can't pull the #5 main cap because the rear main seal cover plate is in the way. So the only way to remove that is to drop the trans. Then you could do it I guess but it would still suck. I'll see how deep the rabbit hole goes and then see about a reman crank or getting this one cleaned up with new bearings. In the mean time, I and going to finish stripping this one down tomorrow and then start prepping the spare engine for service.
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Oct 4, 2015 01:11
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Just curious - you work for a dealer right? I missed this post earlier. I work for an auto parts store - proof that not everyone inside those stores are morons (I think). On the Corolla I was going to run MS but I wanted to do it with COP's instead of the GM ignition module and wasted spark setup. I ended up just going back to a HPTuned stock PCM in that. Tonight I found that the rabbit hole goes deeper than I thought. I removed the crank from the old 6.0 and setup temporary storage area for all of the removed parts. I'll see about ordering a reman crank at work tomorrow for the old engine. That will come with matching main and rod bearings. I took the old engine off of the stand and put the spare 6.0L I bought a while back (from a friend of a friend) onto the stand. First thing I noticed was that there were no bolts on the valley cover. So I remove the valley cover and it is clear that it was stored for a long time without the cover as there is a ton of dust and debris underneath. Ok, whatever. Being exposed to open air one of the cam lobes has some surface rust on it - also not a big deal as I am going to run a different cam. This is where things started to snowball. While examining things I notice the top row of head bolts (there are 15, 10 big ones and a row of 5 small ones under the intake) are not there. They are only M8 and only cover the lifter area of the head so if they were missing it's not a big deal as they can just be re-inserted without worrying about the head gasket. I examine the remaining head bolts and see socket marks on the heads. Ut oh. I was under the impression that the top end was not messed with. Just to check and see if they are torqued or not I hit them with my 1/4 drive impact. I can remove all of the bolts with the 1/4 impact. This means they were all just snugged up and not torqued down. Dammit. I remove the heads as now I will need new head gaskets as well. I flip over the engine and remove the timing cover. I am greeted by a oil pump that is missing two cover bolts. It fits in with the theme of this engine so far. I remove it and find an extra oil pump pickup tube o-ring in the oil pan. Interesting. At this point I want to make sure the bottom end is in good shape before I run it so I'm planning on pulling a few caps to look at the bearings. First two rod caps have enough wear that I will replace them, but not enough wear to have hurt the crank. Some of the rod bolts don't feel torqued as tight as you would expect them to be but all the bearings are OEM. I pull a main cap and the first one is OK. I pull the second one and one half of the bearing is MISSING. As in, not installed. I pull the third one (which is also the thrust bearing) has some side wear, no crank wear. Fourth main is OK, fifth main shows minor pitting from some FOD. At this point I tap out the pistons from the block because why not - it will just make reinstalling the crank easier after bearing installation So in the end I am going to end up replacing all the main and rod bearings in the spare engine that was supposed to be good. The good news is that I have already purchased mains and rods in hope of salvaging the first engine, so I can use those here. And when the crank comes for the other engine, it will have its own main/rods to use. The other good news is that the spare engine DOES appear to be really low mileage and from a newer year than my old block. And it doesn't need any machine work or a new crank. Thank god. So far the extra damage is just more time spent and the cost of head bolts/head set over top of what I was expecting. Could be worse I guess.  Damaged rod bearings (old engine)  Damaged main bearings (old engine)  Damaged crank (old engine)  Work area  'New' block stripped down and ready for new bearings  'New' crank
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Oct 5, 2015 05:48
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Sounds like a halfway finished backyard rebuild.
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Oct 5, 2015 05:55
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CharlesM posted:Sounds like a halfway finished backyard rebuild. Sounds like halfway disassembled, oh poo poo, I have no idea what I'm doing here, button it back up, backyard thoughts of rebuild. Just because you have a socket wrench and an engine stand doesn't mean you can rebuild an engine. Good luck with that mess, FuzzKill.
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Oct 5, 2015 12:13
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EVERYWHERE 
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Holy loving poo poo, good thing you checked. I probably wouldn't have done that out of sheer laziness.
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Oct 5, 2015 17:47
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You should go burn down the house of the guy who sold it to you.
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Oct 5, 2015 17:55
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I'd put the block and all other parts through a full cleanup at this point, who knows how much shop dust and garbage is in various places, or how many times some chucklefuck ran an angle grinder in the same room without any covers over anything. Sucks.
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Oct 7, 2015 18:17
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 New bearings in  New crank in I think I have the entire crankshaft filled with assembly lube. Got the last piston in and everything torqued down on the bottom end tonight. Also swapped the cam over into the new block. Need to decide which set of heads I'm going to run, I need to check the castings and see if there is an advantage to one over the other. If not, I will probably just take the heads off of the old motor and put them on the new motor instead of swapping the valve train hardware over.
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Oct 8, 2015 03:59
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Lack of updates but not lack of things! I was scrambling to finish some side work I took on before I went on vacation for 2 weeks so I didn't really get to work on the truck much. When I came back, it seems that whenever I have time to work or motivation to work I have some other peoples cars in my yard. I did manage to scrape some time and got my truck back on the road last week. Needs some minor things but everything seems to be running well. I've got about 150 miles on it so far. With all the extra jobs I was doing, I did have some money to reinvest into tools and car parts - which is the entire point of this garage! I picked up a smoke machine for leak diagnostics. First time I used it I saved literally hours of diagnostic and head scratching time. In the car part category I will be beginning the 240Z LS conversion sometime soon. I just purchased a set of Speedhut gauges for inside and headers/catback for the car. Also picked up a new set of wheels so I can ditch the atrocities that are currently there. Those were pretty much the last big ticket items I will need, unless I find a problem with the radiator or accessory drive setup. I started de-looming the wiring harness for the engine for some serious truncation - The end result will be the same no matter the donor harness but because I am starting with a truck harness there will be a lot more crap to remove. I'm hoping I won't need to lengthen the computer or very many sensors - hopefully just a few adjustments and tidying. Parts I have: Engine with intake, fuel rail, throttle body, coils TKO 600 transmission with bellhousing and clutch Donor harness Donor drive shaft Electronic gauges Motor mounts Full exhaust system Parts I still need: Fuel injectors (may run truck injectors, it pains me to do so but if the motor is close to stock ...) Water pump, alternator and alternator bracket Fuel pump (may steal walbro unit from Corolla) Compressor and bracket for eventual A/C Coolant hoses Filter/intake setup Clutch hydraulics Transmission mount (will probably be adapting or making my own) Shortening/adapting of driveshaft once measurements are made
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Dec 12, 2015 16:15
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FuzzKill posted:Lack of updates but not lack of things! I'm a little bit worried about you, because "supercharger" is listed on neither list. Are you OK?
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Dec 12, 2015 22:05
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Surely it's printed on the headed note paper by default. Supercharger Eggs Milk Pay gas bill
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Dec 12, 2015 22:25
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Ha, no FI right off the bat - I'm sure clearance will be at a premium in most directions. Of course, the Corolla started out N/A, as did the Colorado ...
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Dec 12, 2015 23:42
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Know what doesn't take up a lot of engine bay space? Nitrous. You know what must be done.
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Dec 13, 2015 13:08
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This youtube channel may inspire you to look into turboing one of your LS projects, he's like the poor mans turbo LS whisperer. He updates the channel a lot with different projects. Sloppy Mechanics He has a beater colorado with 500whp @ 6psi. He's looking to run the boost to 15psi once his fuel problems are sorted which apparently should be good for around 700whp.
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Dec 14, 2015 16:25
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dreesemonkey posted:This youtube channel may inspire you to look into turboing one of your LS projects, he's like the poor mans turbo LS whisperer. He updates the channel a lot with different projects. Holy poo poo, I just about posted about this as well. That truck is mean as poo poo (no offense fuzzkill). It would be interesting to see which works out better supercharging vs turbocharging. Mr Regular was impressed. http://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/a27540/regular-car-reviews-ls-powered-chevy-colorado/
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Dec 14, 2015 16:32
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He has a four door Fairmont that runs 9 secs....holy shitballs that's amazing and only feeds my lust for those turds
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Dec 15, 2015 01:36
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SouthsideSaint posted:He has a four door Fairmont that runs 9 secs....holy shitballs that's amazing and only feeds my lust for those turds It's the fifth one he's built, too.
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Dec 15, 2015 01:44
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dreesemonkey posted:This youtube channel may inspire you to look into turboing one of your LS projects, he's like the poor mans turbo LS whisperer. He updates the channel a lot with different projects. Yup, this is the first thing I thought of as well. Amusing video of his last Fairmont: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Cflrf0KWRQ
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Dec 15, 2015 01:51
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dreesemonkey posted:This youtube channel may inspire you to look into turboing one of your LS projects, he's like the poor mans turbo LS whisperer. He updates the channel a lot with different projects. Their projects are pretty cool, but they also do a lot of dumbass street racing. Instead of being cheap asses they should just spend the money and get their poo poo legal for the speeds they run at the track.
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Dec 15, 2015 02:37
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leica posted:Their projects are pretty cool, but they also do a lot of dumbass street racing. Instead of being cheap asses they should just spend the money and get their poo poo legal for the speeds they run at the track. That would probably double his outlay on a project. Much cheaper to take it to the track once, get kicked out, then sell the car for a profit and start over on a new one.
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Dec 15, 2015 02:52
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Might be my last update until after the holidays, so much to do between now and then. Got the harness stripped down some more - first removed all the loom  Then removed the tape. Not as gnarly as it could have been, most of the wiring isn't sticky or oil saturated which is nice. Just dirty. Once I had a giant rats nest of wires, I went and removed what I won't be needing from the harness. I just did the easy stuff for right now (EVAP, EGR, rear oxygen sensors, 4WD, transmission, and transmission range connectors). On each one I snipped off the connector and then un-pinned each from the PCM connectors so there will be no remnants if it is not being used. Scrap pile  There are a few connectors that I don't know what they are - I'll need to trace those back and figure it out and also figure out what I am going to do for an engine management fuse block. Fuel injection: So pretty   It looks like the majority of the wiring will work as is. I will need to lengthen the IAC, TPS, ECT, and alt connectors so far.
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Dec 17, 2015 00:51
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