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0toShifty posted:Your car probably has plastic water outlets that connect the hoses to the cylinder head - they fail all the time on mk4 golfs and jettas here. They can crack, the o-rings can leak, and there are o-rings around the sensors too. Take that engine cover and take a look. The one over the transmission on the right side of the head can leak coolant directly into the transmission bellhousing area, which has caused clutch failure on a few cars. Thanks, Ive just finished cleaning all the bird poo poo off it (I parked it under a tree and it got about 20 shits on it overnight, i almost cried) so I don't know if I have the willpower to go back out but I'll have a look tomorrow once I've driven it home from work, that way the coolant should have had a bit of a run though.
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Oct 11, 2015 15:07
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CharlesM posted:uhhh,...reported? I was driving the speed limit 
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Oct 11, 2015 16:23
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DELETED posted:I was driving the speed limit You can totally get pulled over for doing the limit in poo poo weather, bro.
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Oct 11, 2015 16:44
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So, an update on that 1991 suburban I asked about, I found a loose part before the rag joint at the base of the steering column, but haven't the slightest what it's called. If someone could point me in the right direction I'd appreciate it. 
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Oct 12, 2015 03:42
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Anybody got any novel means of getting rid of gasoline? My county's solution for gasoline disposal is basically 'hope a local service shop will take it off your hands' but I have checked around and none will. I've got to replace a tank on a '71 challenger I intend to restore. I think there's about three gallons in there.
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Oct 12, 2015 04:02
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If it's not rusty, you can just gradually mix it in with tanks of good gas.
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Oct 12, 2015 04:10
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If it's legal in your area you could use it to start fires/make fires bigger, we sometimes use old gas from our lawn equipment when it's time to burn brush and other yard waste. Or if the neighbor gets drunk and wants to burn things, I don't live in a very upscale area.
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Oct 12, 2015 04:18
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Familiar Foreigner posted:So, an update on that 1991 suburban I asked about, I found a loose part before the rag joint at the base of the steering column, but haven't the slightest what it's called. If someone could point me in the right direction I'd appreciate it. That's probably part of the steering shaft. You might want to look at swapping the whole thing out - I think some years of that body style truck (your 91 might be too new though) can actually use a steering shaft from either a XJ or ZJ Jeep. It gets you a dirt cheap upgrade to actual U-joints instead of the rag joints. I can't recall which because it was unfortunately not an option for my '70. Eliminating the rag joint is so worth it.
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Oct 12, 2015 04:46
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I have a 1995 Opel Omega 2.0L, 100 kW that has had a severe case of lung cancer for some years already. Recently, the engine has also developed a loud ticking from the top end. Since new cars appear to cost way too much, I figure I will get the engine actually fixed and keep on driving it until the wheels fall off. Here is what I plan to do. Already done:
It still burns oil after all the of above; probably also runs too rich - I forget what the numbers were but there's way too much poo poo coming through the engine besides normal exhaust gas. Planned:
Now is there anything I am not thinking of that might need replacement or maintenance on the engine? The engine is 20 years old, so once it's coming apart, might as well go all the way with replacing any potentially worn parts. Are piston rings a wear item? I don't really know what they even do (just help maintain a seal?).
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Oct 12, 2015 06:05
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IOwnCalculus posted:That's probably part of the steering shaft. Just looked into it and supposedly 88-96 Suburbans can take 84-00 XJ intermediate steering shafts, going to call up the local junkyard and see if they have one. Never would have thought of that, thanks. Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 17:36 on Oct 13, 2015 |
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Oct 12, 2015 13:49
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Is there any way to test GM fuel injectors in a GM alloytech V6 3.6L Asking here because I think these motors are common in the USA as well as Australia. My partners car has a misfire but: Only when engine really warm and warm weather, only at cruising speed and some load. EG hitting a hill at 80km/hr. She could drive me around the local suburb all night and give as much throttle as she wants and hit 80km/hr and no misfire. Fault only occurs during longer drives and lots of highway driving, so it's only at an exact temp and throttle position. We don't really want to throw money at this 10 year old commodore, and I've read nightmare stories where even after swapping all 6 coilpacks, the fault ending up being the ECU or another sensor. I've looked at local commodore forums and the gist was there's no way to test these coilpacks, just replace them all. Or, yeah, but you need an oscilloscope and of course a car mech with factory data to test... Seems a bit strange to me because the same story was told to everyone in my HVAC field when inverters came out, ie no way to field test was the story. In the end you just needed a milliohm meter and an inverter diode checker, some basic brains and a care to do it for example.
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Oct 12, 2015 14:00
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Electrical question: I recently hardwired my GPS. It looks like this: It goes add-a-circuit on a ignition-on fuse to chinesium 12V -> 5V dual USB step-down converter, nominally able to supply 2100mA to normal computer USB mini cable, five feet long to USB cradle thingie The idea being, of course, that the GPS should turn on and off with the car. The issue is that after around five hours of use, the GPS starts complaining about low battery. It is as if the power supply supplies slightly less juice than needed, so the battery is drained, and eventually it starts complaining about low battery. I can take off the GPS and bring it to my flat and charge it, and I'm good for another week. My immediate thought is to get a beefier power supply (I already have one on order from "Hong Kong"), but I'd love to get some input. Is my USB cable crap/too long? Should I use the official Garmin power supply instead? Should I make an attempt to measure how much amperage is being used?
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Oct 12, 2015 14:37
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Start with a different USB cable, because USB charging you're doing in your flat is normally only 500mA. The cable may have a break in it if really thin wires. Of course you may have a dodgey 12v-5v converter. But I've bought a few cheap GPS and dash cams from china and never had an issue. But it can happen, though in that case you don't need anything "beefier", just one that works reliably. E: so start with a decent known working cable, if that doesn't fix it, then get another transformer/filter Fo3 fucked around with this message at 14:53 on Oct 12, 2015 |
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Oct 12, 2015 14:45
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Fo3 posted:Of course you may have a dodgey 12v-5v converter. I wouldn't be surprised if it only outputs 500mA and lies about the specs. I'd put my multimeter on it and see
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Oct 12, 2015 15:01
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I think the Garmin might have some Apple-like poo poo where it doesn't fully charge off a generic cable. edit: http://pinoutsguide.com/GPS/garmin_nuvi_power_pinout.shtml Don't know if this applies to your model.
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Oct 12, 2015 15:07
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edit: nevermind.
Cage fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Oct 12, 2015 |
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Oct 12, 2015 18:54
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Question: For my 1970 Plymouth Duster with the 225 Slant Six engine. It has a singe barrel carb on it right now. If I went to a 2 barrel carb would I need a different intake manifold?
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Oct 13, 2015 01:00
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Senior Funkenstien posted:Question: For my 1970 Plymouth Duster with the 225 Slant Six engine. It has a singe barrel carb on it right now. If I went to a 2 barrel carb would I need a different intake manifold? You can probably find an adapter plate.
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Oct 13, 2015 01:03
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Even if so, you're probably going to negate any improvement you'd see from the bigger carb.
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Oct 13, 2015 02:00
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Ozmiander posted:You can totally get pulled over for doing the limit in poo poo weather, bro. ...if you can find an officer that wants to get out of their cruiser in said weather to write you a ticket.
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Oct 13, 2015 06:43
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I would really like to get a car project going (esp a manual trans) but I am p much clueless about working on cars. I can drive a standard like a beast but working on it, heh, I'm like an idiot. Is there a thread in here that helps beginners work on cars?
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Oct 13, 2015 07:21
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Buy a Maserati Biturbo  (This thread, ask whatever you want, then buy a project and post a project thread)
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Oct 13, 2015 07:28
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IOwnCalculus posted:Buy a Maserati Biturbo Ok smart guy, where do I even go about procuring one of these Bitorubos? I'm being serious here.
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Oct 13, 2015 07:31
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gnarlyhotep posted:Ok smart guy, where do I even go about procuring one of these Bitorubos? I'm being serious here. We have a forum regular, 14 INCH DICK, who would just love to talk to you about Biturbos
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Oct 13, 2015 07:33
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haha yeah funny
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Oct 13, 2015 07:34
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look I'm just ltrying to find a project to work on I guess it's my fault that no-one takes me seriously I should never have accepted that mod offer
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Oct 13, 2015 07:36
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Tusen Takk will be selling his car at some point in the not so distant future, from what I understand. It's got a factory supercharger, modern EFI, and a pretty solid 5 speed manual. It's easy to make a lot more power with it too. (... it's a Chevy Cobalt SS with a Saturn Ion body on it, so it's worth not much more than the dirt it's parked on)
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Oct 13, 2015 07:42
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If you want things spacious and easy to work on, get an old (i'd say 1996 or older) pickup truck that's cheap (and probably with a lot of deferred maintenance) and fix everything that needs doing on it. You'll get experience wrenching on stuff (and learning how much tool investment you're comfortable making) on a low-risk vehicle that's not your primary, and at the end you'll have a useful vehicle to keep around.
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Oct 13, 2015 07:58
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Would it be appropriate to ask for a referral for services in here? I'm in Northern Virginia. I hydroplaned my Protege during the downpour last Friday. Other guy got out with some scratches on his bumper, but I knuckled in and crumpled my hood and the segment of the body that runs along the top-forward lip, where the latch is.  No leaking fluids, thermometer gauge sits at ordinary operating temperature, no new noises or smells... Runs well, but I'd like not to really risk it until I know my radiator isn't chafing the belts. Pretty sure I can situate everything more or less back in its place with minimal expense, if I can just take off the hood with a can opener (it's a write-off, I think; I'll get a replacement) and have somebody pull that rail back into the right position. So I need a body guy. Or a goon with a hydraulic ram, I suppose. This is a modest ride, only worth 1400 beforehand, so I'm not really looking to engage the most premium labor, here. Just wanna working latch and an exterior that looks kinda alright so that I don't feel like a jerk parking it on nice streets. I, of course, also invite other advice or observations pertaining to this repair. Edit: oh, poo poo! It's bolted in, not soldered like I was certain it was. This was a stupid question. Eikre fucked around with this message at 23:30 on Oct 13, 2015 |
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Oct 13, 2015 09:10
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gnarlyhotep posted:I would really like to get a car project going (esp a manual trans) but I am p much clueless about working on cars. I can drive a standard like a beast but working on it, heh, I'm like an idiot. If you can find a rust free old school VW Beetle, that might be a good first project car. They're intensely simple.
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Oct 13, 2015 13:33
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Safety Dance posted:If you can find a rust free old school VW Beetle, that might be a good first project car. They're intensely simple. Was going to post this... beetles are stupid simple.. and cheap and parts abound, and mods abound. Just keep off the highway if you like living.
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Oct 13, 2015 15:59
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spog posted:You need to get under there. Try to poke a screwdriver through the chassis. If it's rotten, run away. Thanks to you and InitialDave and Motronic (and CSB in the chat room) for advice on this — I got underneath it before the auction started today and the front body outriggers are completely gone. Still got way outbid, thing went for $3000. Can't imagine it's actually worth that much in its current state.
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Oct 13, 2015 17:21
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bennyfactor posted:Can't imagine it's actually worth that much in its current state.
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Oct 13, 2015 18:08
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gnarlyhotep posted:Ok smart guy, where do I even go about procuring one of these Bitorubos? I'm being serious here. In all seriousness, only madness lies down the path of Biturbo. Do you specifically want to learn how to wrench? Then yeah, you want something old, but with common / easy to obtain parts, and ideally with a sizable aftermarket and enthusiast community. Aircooled VWs check all of those boxes and are still reasonably affordable. Possibly some form of older American car but the best-supported ones in the aftermarket (Camaros, Mustangs, Novas, etc) have had their prices driven through the loving roof by boomers with too much money. Classic trucks can still be had cheaply, especially since a lot of them are still in work-truck condition. If you have something in mind on what you want to do when you're done wrenching on it, then that might change things a bit. For example, if you want to go offroading, a Jeep will give you plenty of opportunity for wrenching without even having to get one that's too old
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Oct 13, 2015 18:28
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As a counterpoint to the Jeep idea: you'll never be finished wrenching on it. There's always another upgrade, or something is broken.
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Oct 13, 2015 20:02
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bennyfactor posted:Thanks to you and InitialDave and Motronic (and CSB in the chat room) for advice on this — I got underneath it before the auction started today and the front body outriggers are completely gone. Still got way outbid, thing went for $3000. Can't imagine it's actually worth that much in its current state. Happy to help you avoid making a mistake. InitialDave posted:It probably isn't. What do you reckon? $1,000 with a reasonable chassis/bulkhead? and that is taking into account the rarity in the US.
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Oct 13, 2015 20:32
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We have a 2009 RAV4, and it seems like every time we pass a multiple of 15k OR it's been 3 months OR 3k since last oil change it throws a MAINT REQ light. Wife just gets it reset, but is this something we can have disabled? I feel like we've been turned away from at least one inspection station blindly without them even checking a code because the light is on.
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Oct 13, 2015 23:38
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This is kinda outta left field but is there anywhere where one can look up the blueprints for a complete engine? I'm fiddling with solidworks and I wanna model something that already exists just to get the program under my fingers. Literally any engine will do.
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Oct 13, 2015 23:40
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uwaeve posted:We have a 2009 RAV4, and it seems like every time we pass a multiple of 15k OR it's been 3 months OR 3k since last oil change it throws a MAINT REQ light. Wife just gets it reset, but is this something we can have disabled? I feel like we've been turned away from at least one inspection station blindly without them even checking a code because the light is on. Nope but look in your manual or google and it'll tell you how to turn the key on and off 3x then honk the horn open the trunk run around in a clockwise circle opening every other door and then eject an ace of base cd to turn the light off.
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Oct 14, 2015 00:00
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spog posted:What do you reckon? $1,000 with a reasonable chassis/bulkhead? and that is taking into account the rarity in the US.
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Oct 14, 2015 00:14
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