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Fallorn posted:I have 4 computers, 1 ps4, 1 amazon fire tv, 2 ipads, 3 iphones and two smart TVs. I am using the duel band wireless router in the TW modem. The house is a one story L shaped house that is about 2.5k sqft. I really have no idea what to get I was wanting to get something with AC because its new and better? Would tri-band be good with all the devices that would be connected? I normally see less than 10 wifi points that the computers notice from neighbors. I don't know what to do and when I look most people don't seem to have as much crap connected to the network as I would have. I am not an expert on this stuff but perhaps I can relate some useful experience. Keep in mind that many devices do not support wireless AC. On a PC or laptop, buying an adapter isn’t very expensive, but for embedded devices like an IPad and (I think) the PS4 you will not be able to use AC. That said, wireless-n is 5ghz and nearly all AC routers support dual or tri broadcast but are considerably more expensive. Also, as much as I love my new AC router, a wired connection still beats the poo poo out of it. Do you have any AC devices? What need is your current setup failing to meet? Integrated routers in modems can be pretty lackluster; what are the specification of yours? How is your current coverage? Edit: the newer Ipads support AC, apparently. I have no idea regarding the rest. Yudo fucked around with this message at 04:31 on Oct 20, 2015 |
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Oct 20, 2015 01:51
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I know the phones and my new wifi card for the pc will do AC and 3 of the other computers will do N at 5ghz and the smart tvs will do 5ghz and the fire tv so that would leave the ps4 to have the 2.4 space fore itself. If I got triband Once could be N and the other could be AC for the phones and one of the pc's? Or do I have this all wrong and saying stupid things.
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Oct 20, 2015 06:27
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I need a <$75 home router, 5ghz n capable (there's about 50 2.4ghz networks in the area, also I only have like one ac device and it's a TV set top box) router with rock-solid performance. My connection is only like 30/4. Gigabit would be nice but it's not required if I can get 5ghz wireless without it and save a buck. I've been looking at an archer c5 or a warehouse deals archer c7 but I'm open to any suggestions. I'm willing to deal with setting up a mikrotik if there's one that fits my needs. Edit: Does the TL-WDR4300 compete with the c5/c7 if I don't care about AC? For those prices I could swing a SB6121 as well and really get my poo poo together. Fruit Chewy fucked around with this message at 08:54 on Oct 20, 2015 |
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Oct 20, 2015 08:32
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If you don't care about AC wifi the TL-WDR4300 will do the job. Its basically the precursor to the Archer line. (old version of the Archer C7 actually) The SB6121 is fine but the SB6141 is better as more bonded channels means better performance if lots of people in your area have cable internet.
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Oct 20, 2015 14:33
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I'm clueless when it comes to networking, but I'm 90% sure I need to replace my Belkin N600 router. Half the time I have a solid 50/5 cable connection, while other times pages struggle to load and it may take five minutes to download a single image. Sometimes things will work fine for hours or days, but it always comes back. These problems persist over both ethernet and WiFi connections. Doing a soft reset through the router management screen has no effect, but unplugging the router manually seems to fix the issue for 20-30 minutes before problems show up again. I did a factory reset, but there was no noticeable change. The firmware is up to date. I have an ISP-provided Arris CM820 modem. I bought this router about five years ago when I was having similar problems. My network isn't extremely complicated, just two wired PCs, a wireless laptop and a couple of phones. As far as I can tell, I'm only in range of about three other wireless networks, and I only have one device that can take advantage of a 5ghz connection. Is five years about in line with the average router lifespan? Other than these recent problems, the Belkin has been really solid, and I'm thinking about just picking up an identical one, but I'd love to know if there are better options. Cheaper is better, but my price range is anywhere up to $100.
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Oct 20, 2015 19:49
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Lester Shy posted:Is five years about in line with the average router lifespan? Other than these recent problems, the Belkin has been really solid, and I'm thinking about just picking up an identical one, but I'd love to know if there are better options. Cheaper is better, but my price range is anywhere up to $100. It's been my experience that after 4-5 years a typical $80 router will poo poo itself due to firmware not being maintained or the hardware slowly aging and degrading. I guess some people really are happy using their WRT-54Gs running DD-WRT but I have no idea what they're doing that makes it ok for that purpose. I pay my $100-200 router tax every 4-5 years like a new battery for my car and go from there. For something as ubiquitous as internet use, I feel like constantly rebooting a router because I saved $100 3 years ago seems like a waste of time.
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Oct 20, 2015 23:03
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Rakthar posted:It's been my experience that after 4-5 years a typical $80 router will poo poo itself due to firmware not being maintained or the hardware slowly aging and degrading. I guess some people really are happy using their WRT-54Gs running DD-WRT but I have no idea what they're doing that makes it ok for that purpose. If you've got the same 6mbps DSL connection the phone company has offered for the last 10 years, then that WRT54G is probably a-ok.
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Oct 21, 2015 00:10
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 I buy all my networking equipment in the scratch and dent warehouse deals aisle. Honestly it worked fine for my nexus 6 so I'm reasonably comfortable doing so. I just dig for the ones with only packaging damage.
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Oct 21, 2015 00:17
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How can I find out which of my devices support the 5ghz band (N or AC)? I'm trying to figure out if it'd be worth it to buy a new router that supports 5ghz to clear up congestion from my apartment complex and move my current router to my home lab and let "legacy" devices connect to it wirelessly.
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Oct 21, 2015 00:57
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GobiasIndustries posted:How can I find out which of my devices support the 5ghz band (N or AC)? I'm trying to figure out if it'd be worth it to buy a new router that supports 5ghz to clear up congestion from my apartment complex and move my current router to my home lab and let "legacy" devices connect to it wirelessly. Dig through the specification page for each of them.
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Oct 21, 2015 01:11
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Is powerline stuff really affected by 'simple' extension cords? I can't imagine a good extension cord could be any worse than the house wiring inside the walls (on an average aged home). edit: OK, I know it works, I've done it before. Just don't know if I'm losing any performance.
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Oct 21, 2015 03:49
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Shaocaholica posted:Is powerline stuff really affected by 'simple' extension cords? I can't imagine a good extension cord could be any worse than the house wiring inside the walls (on an average aged home). Extension cords? No. Power bars that do line conditioning and such? Yes.
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Oct 21, 2015 03:51
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Is it worth it anymore to flash your router? What it seems like, most of Tomato and its forks have been abandoned. I currently have an Asus RT-AC66U on the latest stock firmware. I flashed my old WRT54G years ago because it was cheap and DD-WRT was light years ahead. Doesn't seem to be worth it anymore. EconOutlines fucked around with this message at 06:44 on Oct 21, 2015 |
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Oct 21, 2015 05:02
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EconOutlines posted:Is it worth it anymore to flash your router? What it seems like, most of Tomato and its forks have been abondoned. I currently have an Asus RT-AC66U on the latest stock firmware. You could do Merlin, but unless you know it does something that ASUSWRT doesn't it's not worth it. Yes that is what Asus calls its contemporary stock firmware.
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Oct 21, 2015 05:21
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Sir Unimaginative posted:You could do Merlin, but unless you know it does something that ASUSWRT doesn't it's not worth it. At least merlin packages the closed binary blobs, so you still maintain hardware acceleration, which is often lost from third party firmwares. And adds a bunch of cool options, mine personal favourite being jffs scripts.
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Oct 21, 2015 05:57
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Lester Shy posted:I'm clueless when it comes to networking, but I'm 90% sure I need to replace my Belkin N600 router. Half the time I have a solid 50/5 cable connection, while other times pages struggle to load and it may take five minutes to download a single image. Sometimes things will work fine for hours or days, but it always comes back. These problems persist over both ethernet and WiFi connections. Doing a soft reset through the router management screen has no effect, but unplugging the router manually seems to fix the issue for 20-30 minutes before problems show up again. I did a factory reset, but there was no noticeable change. The firmware is up to date. I have an ISP-provided Arris CM820 modem. I had similar pain with lovely consumer routers for years, ended up getting a unifi edgerouter + uap and it's really good. I don't have to think about it, uptime is measured in months. Can't rememeber the US pricing but an edgerouter x + uap-ac-lite would be about $100.
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Oct 21, 2015 06:10
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37th Chamber posted:Extension cords? No. Netgear support page says you shouldn't even use extension cords(differentiated from surge protectors). Maybe they're just being overly cautious. http://kb.netgear.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/20233/~/product-faq%3A-powerline-adapters quote:Can I plug my Powerline adapter into a power strip, surge protector, uninterruptible power supplies (UPS) or extension cord?
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Oct 21, 2015 07:03
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Speaking from a fairly massive amount of experience with Devolo powerline adapters(The ISP I work for uses them as one option for hooking up IPTV STBs if no wired connection is available, the alternative is WiFi bridges), any kind of extension cord can screw up connection quality. Part of it is indeed being overly cautious because most people don't know what kind of extension cord or powerstrip they're using or plug in high-wattage devices next to the adapter, but there are also other cases where quality noticeably degrades. I've even seen it in the field a bit over half a decade ago when I worked as a sysadmin, although this was around the time these things were still fairly new(otherwise empty cheap powerbar, it was just to cover a bit of distance in the room itself that a longer ethernet cable ended up solving) Of course, it's not as bad as the people who plug 2000W space heaters into the socket on top of their PLCs and then complain they have bad picture/connection quality when they're on.
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Oct 21, 2015 09:23
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Smoke posted:Speaking from a fairly massive amount of experience with Devolo powerline adapters(The ISP I work for uses them as one option for hooking up IPTV STBs if no wired connection is available, the alternative is WiFi bridges), any kind of extension cord can screw up connection quality. Can I plug in a small UPS to the other receptacle on the same wall socket where I've got the PL adapter plugged in or will that cause problems too? I only have one set of plugs in my office upstairs.
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Oct 21, 2015 15:42
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If I want to add access points for wifi roaming with the same SSID, should I use APs from the same maker as the router or does that not matter? How well does apples airport express/extreme work in this regard?
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Oct 21, 2015 18:17
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EconOutlines posted:Is it worth it anymore to flash your router? What it seems like, most of Tomato and its forks have been abandoned. I currently have an Asus RT-AC66U on the latest stock firmware. I have advanced tomato on my N66U, last update was 2 months ago, so I don't know if I'd say it's abandoned...
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Oct 21, 2015 18:49
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Also back to PL. If I mix different speed adapters, does the whole PL network operate at the lowest speed all the time or just when one of the low speed adapters is active?
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Oct 21, 2015 19:40
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EconOutlines posted:Is it worth it anymore to flash your router? What it seems like, most of Tomato and its forks have been abandoned. I currently have an Asus RT-AC66U on the latest stock firmware. Unless you need some specific advanced feature that only 3rd party firmware offers the answer is generally no. Stock firmware has come a long way in the past 5+ years and most 3rd party firmware distributions have stagnated to varying degrees. Most people just don't need the things that 3rd party firmware can offer over stock.
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Oct 22, 2015 02:15
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Shaocaholica posted:Netgear support page says you shouldn't even use extension cords(differentiated from surge protectors). Maybe they're just being overly cautious. House wiring/extension cords aren't shielded so if you have a long run/coiled cord/etc you'll start getting EMI, it'll still work but you'll run the risk of lowering your sync rate. Things that actively scrub the power have the potential of removing the signal entirely.
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Oct 22, 2015 02:20
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37th Chamber posted:House wiring/extension cords aren't shielded so if you have a long run/coiled cord/etc you'll start getting EMI, it'll still work but you'll run the risk of lowering your sync rate. Oh is coiled cord bad for EMI? Like even on data cables? I think I've seen quite a few coiled USB2 cables but not USB3. I'm only running 6-10ft of extension. Hope that's not too bad. Would an add on ferrite bead help?
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Oct 22, 2015 02:42
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So I'm going to pull the trigger and pick up an Archer C7. I've gone through and evaluated and there are a few devices I own that only support 2.4ghz, and I really want to keep the speeds high for the devices that support AC (one of which is my media player). I'm thinking that I'll just create 3 APs: 1 AC only, 1 5ghz N, and one 2.4ghz N or below (using my old router as an AP and separately a switch for my home lab). Each will have their own SSID, keeping the slow devices from the fast ones and the devices that support the higher bands separated. A bit complicated, but should this work?
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Oct 22, 2015 03:44
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Not sure what other thread to ask in, so thought I'd try here. I live in a semi-rural spot. It's just a small group of about 6 houses down a dead end private dirt road half a mile from the main road. For the 6 years I've lived here I've only had DSL through Centurylink (they took over Qwest the 1st year) and 1.5mbs down, .2mbs up. For about 5 months in early 2013 I was getting about 4.5mbs for some reason, then it stopped. I tried to see if I could upgrade that but was always told no faster speed is available. Earlier this year I got mail saying faster speeds were now in my area. My account online showed an upgrade option to 10mbs, so I called right away only to be told the same thing. I then kept trying each month and finally in September they said it was available and a few days later I was enjoying 6.5mbs up and .75 down. I was content with that since I could at least view streaming content in something higher than 360p. Then on Sunday the internet was basically dead and nothing would load. It was the same on Monday so I called. They said it looked like there were problems and a technician would come by the next morning. No one came, but later in the day they called and said only 1.5mbs was available at the switch for my area and that's why I wasn't getting the faster speed. I was confused since I'd been getting the faster speeds, but have not gotten any answers to my inquiries about it. My account now shows the 1.5 plan instead the 10mbs plan it had this past month. So, is the switch some major piece of equipment on their end that can't be changed? Or is it a matter of the types of phone lines in the area? When I check addresses in the other neighborhoods nearby they have other speeds and ISPs (DSL and cable) available, but not mine. Is it then just not cost effective to establish it in my little area and do they need to actually run new lines to our homes, or just to that switch? It's been really frustrating and I don't know why they can't let me use the slightly faster speed. The only other options are either cellular or satellite, but they have tiny data limits. I have unlimited LTE data on my phone and get nearly 30mbs, but hit my tether cap just after a movie or two streamed in HD.
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Oct 22, 2015 12:17
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The Gunslinger posted:Can I plug in a small UPS to the other receptacle on the same wall socket where I've got the PL adapter plugged in or will that cause problems too? I only have one set of plugs in my office upstairs. As far as I know that shouldn't cause much if any issues. However, powerline stuff seems to be dark magic sometimes.
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Oct 22, 2015 12:20
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Having lived in apartments for many years, I haven't had to think about this too much, but I've now moved into a house and suddenly my home networking is massively inadequate. First of all, my home router is still a WRT54GL running Tomato. This was fine for the most part as a lot of my devices ran wired, but the wireless coverage for the few devices that care about that right now is pretty lovely.. What I'd like to do is make my main router something like the Archer C9 (I plan on using the USB3 port and file server functionality) and add other access points as needed with wired backhaul. Questions: 1) Should everything just magically work if I set these secondary routers to have the same SSID and keys? I'd like movement throughout the house to be relatively seamless networking-wise where possible. Also, I don't want these secondary routers handing out DHCP addresses - I want that to be done exclusively by the main router. 2) Given #1 above, what should I use for the secondary access points? I don't need anything super advanced; I basically want them to be dumb as hell and let the C9 do all the "real" work because I only want to configure one central point. 3) I had no idea that powerline networking has gotten so fast. Would it work well as a wired backhaul in this kind of situation? Most of my wiring is fairly modern so I don't think that should be an issue. 4) If I use powerline, can I just plug in random new adapters and have them see everything or are they point to point? Oh, price isn't a huge concern but I'm not looking to get to prosumer sorts of price levels. crazyfish fucked around with this message at 14:59 on Oct 22, 2015 |
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Oct 22, 2015 14:56
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Antillie posted:Unless you need some specific advanced feature that only 3rd party firmware offers the answer is generally no. Stock firmware has come a long way in the past 5+ years and most 3rd party firmware distributions have stagnated to varying degrees. Most people just don't need the things that 3rd party firmware can offer over stock. I haven't exactly kept on top of this stuff, but from the hacky poo poo I did with DD-WRT back in the 54G days (aka like 4-5 years ago) I would say that the only features that you will really get with 3rd party firmware these days that you can't with the stock stuff are things that most home routers can't handle anyway. If you're really scrutinizing the feature list of DD-WRT or Tomato or whatever, you're better off going Ubiquiti or MicroTik or pfSense or whatever. Documentation for most of the really advanced features in the alternative firmware has never been particularly great anyway and I can't help but feel like time hasn't helped.
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Oct 22, 2015 16:17
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AzureSkys posted:Not sure what other thread to ask in, so thought I'd try here. Hmm.. Where to start with this. I guess I'll try to directly answer you specific questions, and then go into some other stuff. I did DSL tech support for a few years and work for a company in the industry. I'm pretty familiar with all things DSL still. quote:It's been really frustrating and I don't know why they can't let me use the slightly faster speed. It is frustrating as hell. In a nutshell they won't let you have the higher speed because it's not going to be reliable. It might work 60% of the time, but it might not the other 40%. Lots of crap can affect ADSL signal performance, especially the farther out you are. I've seen some strange poo poo over the years affect DSL connectivity. I never was involved with or worked for CenturyLink, but in my ISP experience they tend to be conservative in what they'll support. It boils down to a cost perspective. You're paying 50 bucks a month or whatever for internet, if you call in even once a month they pretty much lose money on your account. If they give you a flaky connection and you start calling in every week, you're losing them money and the smart business decision would be to terminate your service. Unfortunately they don't really care about your internet connection, they care about money. The goal is to make money off a subscriber, not lose money. If you can get solid service at 1.5Mbps but flaky service at 6Mbps, they're going to set you at 1.5. quote:So, is the switch some major piece of equipment on their end that can't be changed? Or is it a matter of the types of phone lines in the area? The DSL service comes to you from a piece of equipment called a DSLAM (Digital Subscriber Line Access Multiplexer). It's located somewhere in the companies network near a telephone cross box. It can be changed if needed, but it probably won't be to be honest. Even if they did change it, odds are it wouldn't help much. DSL signals are usually only good for about 18,000 feet give or take depending on line conditions. I've seen good lines carry a 3Mbps signal 18,000 feet, and I've seen crappy lines not able to maintain 1.5Mbps at 15,000 feet. It really depends. The signal piggy backs on existing phone lines and uses the higher frequencies not used by voice transmission to carry the data signal, the downside is these higher frequencies are more susceptible to interference and line quality issues. The longer the loop length, the weaker the signal. I don't have the specifics of your situation, but if I had to guess you're in the 15,000 foot range from the cross box. (Note this distance is measured by the length of the phone cable (aka loop length), not driving or as the crow flies). Good enough to maintain a 1.5Mbps or probably even a 3Mbps signal, but 6 or more will probably be flaky or inconsistent. If you can get the DSL signal information from your modem, it would be helpful. I don't have a lot of faith with CenturyLink doing anything to help you out, if your loop length is as long as I think it is, even putting an upgraded ADSL2 DSLAM in won't help with your speeds. There are some things you can do on your end to try to make the signal as strong as possible when it gets to your house, but there's no control over the wiring inbetween you and the cross box. Other suggestions could be reaching out the CL tech that posts on dslreports and see if he can help out at all, or even having a local county/city rep reach out to CL on your behalf. Sometimes things can be done, but it takes getting a hold of the right people. I'd really be interested in your DSL line stats if you could post them.
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Oct 22, 2015 19:46
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Any recommendations on an 802.11ac range extender to use as a bridge? I tried a decently-rated TP-LINK powerline ethernet starter kit the other month and a thunderstorm occurred the day right afterwards, possibly knocking one of the units out. At least I think that's what might have happened? It's only a 40-year-old house in a relatively civilized suburb with mandatory standards that require conduit, etc. Just need to carry a stronger 5GHz signal 3 or 4 rooms down. e: if it's more than $75 I might as well try a newer TP-LINK powerline ethernet adapter kit instead. It's for one desktop PC primarily, but a range extender would benefit at least 4 more in the vicinity. Sidesaddle Cavalry fucked around with this message at 04:44 on Oct 23, 2015 |
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Oct 22, 2015 20:38
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crazyfish posted:Having lived in apartments for many years, I haven't had to think about this too much, but I've now moved into a house and suddenly my home networking is massively inadequate. 1. Yes. Just put them on different channels so they don't interfere with each other. 2. Any consumer grade wifi router will do the job. Just turn off its DHCP server, give it a unique static IP in the same range as your Archer C9, and ignore its WAN port. 3. Probably yes. Powerline adapters are great replacements for cat5e runs where such runs are not feasible for one reason or another. 4. I have no idea. If you really want to go a more "pro" route look into Unifi APs. Their new line of AC APs is quite nice. Just don't get the LR, its not meant for laptops/phones/tablets/game consoles. In fact, if you decide to go with Unifi APs you might consider the Edgerouter X or Edgerouter Lite. They don't do wifi but they are pretty amazing routers for small networks. Unifi gear is pretty cheap for what it does. Even cheaper than high end consumer grade stuff in some cases. Antillie fucked around with this message at 02:15 on Oct 23, 2015 |
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Oct 23, 2015 01:58
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Antillie posted:1. Yes. Just put them on different channels so they don't interfere with each other. Seconding the Ubiquiti suggestion. My edgerouter X has been rock solid, and I've deployed Unifi APs for businesses without any issues or call backs. I'll be buying one of these for wifi as soon as my Asus router (in AP mode) takes a poo poo. https://www.ubnt.com/unifi/unifi-ap-ac-lite/ Basically, Ubiquiti taught me that consumer grade networking gear sucks and we should stop buying it. Bishyaler fucked around with this message at 04:24 on Oct 23, 2015 |
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Oct 23, 2015 04:22
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How good are the UniFi ACs at penetrating walls Sidesaddle Cavalry fucked around with this message at 05:19 on Oct 23, 2015 |
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Oct 23, 2015 05:17
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skipdogg posted:Hmm.. Where to start with this. I guess I'll try to directly answer you specific questions, and then go into some other stuff. I did DSL tech support for a few years and work for a company in the industry. I'm pretty familiar with all things DSL still. Oh wow, that actually really helps me understand better what's going on. I figured there was maybe something to do with distance. And, if it's true that they'd rather give me something consistent rather than variable, I'd still take the variable speed and not call again! My connection was on and off, though, through Sunday and then my speeds were very slow and nothing would really load on the web which is why I called when it remained so the next day. My router setup stuff says this, not sure sure if it's helpful for the stats or I can try to grab other info: Network Type PPPoE ADSL Firmware Version A2pB023b.d20e DownStream Connection Speed 1760 kbps UpStream Connection Speed 288 kbps VPI 8 VCI 35 Multiplexing Method LLC-Based Thanks again!
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Oct 23, 2015 05:39
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Are there advanced line stats anywhere? Looking for something like what I pasted below. Also what model of DSL gateway is that? Upstream max rate (kbit/s) 1186 Downstream max rate (kbit/s) 22484 Upstream line rate (kbit/s) 254 Downstream line rate (kbit/s) 1023 Line standard ADSL2+ Channel type Interleaved Upstream SNR (dB) 32.3 Downstream SNR (dB) 28.6 Upstream line attenuation (dB) 8 Downstream line attenuation (dB) 14 Upstream output power (dBmV) 4.8 Downstream output power (dBmV) 7.5 Upstream CRC 4 Downstream CRC 6 Upstream FEC 16 Downstream FEC 19
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Oct 23, 2015 07:31
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I'm not seeing any other info similar in the router menus. It's a Netgear DG834G I passthrough to an Asus RT-N16. I have another router/modem, forgot the model, and can connect when I get home to see if it has more info though I don't recall seeing much beyond what I posted. I'd guess the attenuation and power numbers can help see the distance related limits? I just wish there were cellular or satellite plans with bigger data caps. I was able to use a method to bypass my tether cap with mac spoofing and VPN stuff, but it doesn't work anymore. If I download one game or stream a few shows/movies I'm pretty much done for the month. I don't have TV service but instead have most streaming service subscriptions (Netflix, Hulu, Prime, etc). I get most frustrated when there are commercials since they usually don't downgrade in quality and buffer forever. I've had some 30s commercials take 5 minutes to get through. So I instead get to watch everything on my little phone.
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Oct 23, 2015 08:58
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How do the popular OSs handle wifi roaming? Win7/8/10, OS X, iOS? Multiple APs, same SSID? How well do they switch from a weaker AP to a stronger one? Multiple APs, different SSID? What's the behavior/threshold for switching?
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Oct 23, 2015 09:20
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My girlfriend and I just put a contract on a house and I'm thinking about the network setup. The house is a bit bigger than our townhouse. Right now my router is an Asus RT-AC68R/U, it was free from T-Mobile. Signal is not bad on it but I'm planning to shore it up with APs on either side of the house. It looks like the Ubiquiti AP-Lite is going to be a great option for me. Would it be worth it to worth it to switch a wired router and then have the APs take care of my wireless? Since moving would also switch from FiOS to Xfinity, is the SB6141 still recommended for a cable modem?
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Oct 23, 2015 13:47
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