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don't forget volkswagen managing to wick coolant all the way down the wiring harness to the taillights in some cars here's the TSB PDF: oh god the horror
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Oct 26, 2015 00:57
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Oct 26, 2015 04:39
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What was the book time for that job?
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Oct 26, 2015 04:48
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0toShifty posted:I did a blinker fluid flush on a Cobalt today. Couldn't figure out how it filled up with water. Blew it all out with compressed air. Was considering putting it in the dunk tank to check for leaks. That's a little too much dedication when we're only really changing a light bulb though. Just drill a tiny hole in the bottom/corner and call it a day.
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Oct 26, 2015 07:24
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dissss posted:On my Integra the water would end up flowing past the tail light seals and completely filling the spare tyre well. Is it only rust buckets that have drainage holes? and CO fumes
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Oct 26, 2015 09:44
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There's no excuse for leaky tail lights filling up and leaking water in the car via the bulb hole. Just drill a hole in the bottom of the light, you kill two birds with one stone. Maine inspection manual actually states lights can have moisture, but if your state isn't so awesome just dry it out with a heat gun once a year for inspection. I did that for years before they added that clause to the inspection rules.
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Oct 26, 2015 12:50
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With the Integra that didn't really help - unless you fixed the seal water would still enter the trunk (it was a stupid design)
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Oct 26, 2015 20:14
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0toShifty posted:I did a blinker fluid flush on a Cobalt today. Couldn't figure out how it filled up with water. Blew it all out with compressed air. Was considering putting it in the dunk tank to check for leaks. That's a little too much dedication when we're only really changing a light bulb though. My wife had a 2008 Cobalt. Both headlights had filled with water at different times. The first one was just out of warranty and we replaced it. When the other one went last year, I just dried it out with a hair dryer and sealed up the edges with silicon. Her parents had a 2007 Malibu. One of the headlights filled up with water. Her uncle drilled a hole in the bottom of the housing, as he did with his own Buick of that era.
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Oct 26, 2015 21:00
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FogHelmut posted:My wife had a 2008 Cobalt. Both headlights had filled with water at different times. The first one was just out of warranty and we replaced it. When the other one went last year, I just dried it out with a hair dryer and sealed up the edges with silicon. Had to do the same to my wife's grand prix back in the day. It seems like a common gm thing.
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Oct 26, 2015 21:10
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FogHelmut posted:
Yeah that era of gm required pulling the front bumper loose to change headlight bulbs
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Oct 26, 2015 21:13
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A true horrible mechanical failure is the GMC Acadia headlight. (or Chevy Traverse) It's just an H11 bulb right? how hard could it be. Hey wait why is this going to pay me freaking 1.5 flat rate hours for changing a bulb? OH GOD. So you have to jack the damned thing up, remove like 16 fasteners on the inner fender liner. Then you can finally see the back of the headlight assembley where you can pull the little cover off and discover that the stupid H11 connector is burned out (this happens often on GM's H11 bulb cars). After waiting an hour for the pigtail to arrive, installed it, and got it back together. Then the customer gets a $300 bill to replace a normal halogen headlight bulb. EDIT: OH you know where the battery is on this travesty, I mean Traverse? IT'S IN THE FLOOR BEHIND THE PASSENGER SEAT. You need a T20 torx driver to open this door under the carpet. Then you get to change a battery covered in spilled soda and coffee. Picture of pigtail installed there 
0toShifty fucked around with this message at 01:10 on Oct 27, 2015 |
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Oct 27, 2015 01:00
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It is fairly frustrating to change the bulbs in the last gen sierra/silverado as well. You would think that would be pretty straightforward in a full size pickup, but nooooo. Part of it is that on the driver's side the filler neck for the washer reservoir sits directly in the way, even though there is plenty of space for it to be a few inches to either side.
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Oct 27, 2015 01:27
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So this loving cock smoker pile of lying poo poo master tech misdiagnosed a missfire on number 1 on a straight six jeep. Sold the dude the whole coilpack and plugs. Comes right back in two days with the missfire. So cock bag decides its a good day to start a poo poo fit about having to install a interlock device in some impala or something and his box is gone the next day. Well you know we start doing actual diag on it and find no compression in number one. Decide to split hairs with the customer and eat half the head job. Head comes back from a super dependable local machine shop were all super cool with. We get it back together, starts backfiring like a motherfucker out of the intake. Start messing with the timing a bit, nothing. pull the valve cover and the number one inundtake rocker is loose as gently caress. The machine shop weirdly tells us to not worry about it and just put some washers under the rocker bolt. Were all like, eh what? Try it cause were out of ideas ourselves and it doesn't really fix much. Pull the head out again, and would you know that suddenly the number one intake pushrod is bent to poo poo. hmm. Suddenly someone says, did you guys even look at the cam shaft?  So the question remains, was it hosed before or after the head rebuild?
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Oct 27, 2015 02:11
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I'd guess that it was the source of the misfire, but I'm not sure how the cam lobe got hosed too.
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Oct 27, 2015 04:29
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We had what we thought was a reputable machine shop gently caress up a lot of sets of heads. Turns out they were outsourcing to a place down the street who wasn't checking valve guides and used lovely valve seals, so we had a bunch of cars come back with excessive oil consumption because it just leaked right out in to the exhaust ports. And then we got two hilariously mis-decked blocks that were so bad oil spurted out between the head and gasket on initial startup. Part of me wants to start building subaru engines on my own, but the other part doesn't want to deal with all the assholes and idiots who will break them and then try to blame me. jamal fucked around with this message at 06:14 on Oct 27, 2015 |
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Oct 27, 2015 06:04
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If they just sent the head out then obv the machine shop wouldn't catch it; not checking the cam is all on the garage techs.
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Oct 27, 2015 06:09
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Enourmo posted:If they just sent the head out then obv the machine shop wouldn't catch it; not checking the cam is all on the garage techs. Mmm, normally when you send a head out you don't send the cam, but not sure if this was the case in this instance. But normally the most the other shop does is machine/grind to level and square, pressure test, and valves and guides if asked for. Mechanic shop usually keeps the cam, and re-assembles cam, bearings, does the timing (and gasket of course).
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Oct 27, 2015 12:02
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Crossposting from my thread; I started dissassembling my old engine (that made some spooky noises) today - I forgot to take photos until i'd already taken the intake manifold off and flopped the engine onto its face for exhaust header removal:  Get off there, sump pan;  oh hello what's going on in here  Windage tray off; one of these things is not like the others...  OH GOD CONROD WHY ARE YOU IN SO MANY PIECES?!  RIP conrod - these are the pieces that fell out the bottom.
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Oct 27, 2015 13:42
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Fo3 posted:Mmm, normally when you send a head out you don't send the cam, but not sure if this was the case in this instance. But normally the most the other shop does is machine/grind to level and square, pressure test, and valves and guides if asked for. That's an OHV engine, the cam sits in the block, hence why it wasn't checked at first. You have to fish all of the lifters out of their bores before you can pull the cam out of a 4.0.
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Oct 27, 2015 16:05
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Finny a munched cam story comes up; we just had two Honda TRX680 engined machines, one quad and one side by side, come in with poor running off idle and lack of power, with louder than normal induction noise from the air box. Cue ~2.5 hrs of diag per machine from two different techs. Compression test and leak down show fairly normal results for the mileage. Normal results for fuel pressure, and other fuel / ignition related problems. Checking the valve clearances showed 5 times the allowable for the exhaust on both machines. The cam on these machines mounts on top the the cylinder, below the cylinder head. You can only inspect it by removing the rocker cover, pulling the push rods and buckets and looking at the lobes. The exhaust bucket on both were almost worn through and the lobe was almost worn down to the base circle. I'm not even sure how they ran. Now replacing a camshaft turns into rebuilding the entire top end, as there are a bunch of 'while you are in there' things.
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Oct 28, 2015 03:25
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DefaultPeanut posted:Finny a munched cam story comes up; we just had two Honda TRX680 engined machines, one quad and one side by side, come in with poor running off idle and lack of power, with louder than normal induction noise from the air box. Cue ~2.5 hrs of diag per machine from two different techs. Compression test and leak down show fairly normal results for the mileage. Normal results for fuel pressure, and other fuel / ignition related problems. Checking the valve clearances showed 5 times the allowable for the exhaust on both machines. The cam on these machines mounts on top the the cylinder, below the cylinder head. You can only inspect it by removing the rocker cover, pulling the push rods and buckets and looking at the lobes. The exhaust bucket on both were almost worn through and the lobe was almost worn down to the base circle. I'm not even sure how they ran. Now replacing a camshaft turns into rebuilding the entire top end, as there are a bunch of 'while you are in there' things. I'd be quite concerned about what led to that state. Cams aren't supposed to be wear and tear replacement items.
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Oct 28, 2015 11:59
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No. 6 posted:I'd be quite concerned about what led to that state. Cams aren't supposed to be wear and tear replacement items. Tell that to GM.
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Oct 29, 2015 00:55
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Talking to Honda Tech line about it, it is a fairly common thing, as the cam is only splash lubed by the timing chain. There is a little stamped aluminum tray under the cam to help retain oil that it can dip into.
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Oct 29, 2015 01:58
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Here's a stretched out oil drain plug taken from a Mazda CX-9. Not so much a mechanical failure as it is a quick-lube failure.
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Oct 29, 2015 02:12
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That's actually impressive. How were the threads on the pan?
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Oct 29, 2015 02:17
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Sex Weirdo posted:Here's a stretched out oil drain plug taken from a Mazda CX-9. Not so much a mechanical failure as it is a quick-lube failure. That reminds me of the BMW drain plugs that have a hollow core that's hex-shaped near the head, and the bolt is narrowed near the top as well. So if it gets seized the head shears off, you let the oil drain (slowly) and then use an allen wrench to get the core out. I imagine it lets them make the pan threads beefier, maybe that pic is something similar?
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Oct 29, 2015 02:49
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Threads on the pan were surprisingly good still. The motor is junk anyway, I was just draining the milkshake out of it before I drop it out. I wish I would have recorded the knocking noises it was making, it wasn't rhythmic, but there would be a loud BOOM randomly every 5-10 seconds.
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Oct 29, 2015 02:56
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Sex Weirdo posted:Here's a stretched out oil drain plug taken from a Mazda CX-9. Not so much a mechanical failure as it is a quick-lube failure. When I worked for the Mazda dealer quick lubes always wrecked Mazda motors. For a while jiffy lubes filters would just miraculously fall of Mazda 3s with the 2.0. Or the 8mm hex drain plug would be a circle
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Oct 29, 2015 02:57
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SouthsideSaint posted:For a while jiffy lubes filters would just miraculously fall of Mazda 3s with the 2.0. That's funny I seem to keep finding the opposite, at least on the Mazda SUVs. The "hand tight" filters are drat near friction welded on.
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Oct 29, 2015 03:14
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Sex Weirdo posted:That's funny I seem to keep finding the opposite, at least on the Mazda SUVs. The "hand tight" filters are drat near friction welded on. That's cause dipshits don't lube the gaskets before installing; the heat and pressure cause the gasket to remold itself to the mating surface, which like triples the friction. I've had filters where you had to screw the whole thing off while the gasket was stuck; try spinning the gasket in a filter sometime, it's a pain in the dick.
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Oct 29, 2015 03:31
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Enourmo posted:That reminds me of the BMW drain plugs that have a hollow core that's hex-shaped near the head, and the bolt is narrowed near the top as well. So if it gets seized the head shears off, you let the oil drain (slowly) and then use an allen wrench to get the core out. I imagine it lets them make the pan threads beefier, maybe that pic is something similar? Wow, that is impressively good design.
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Oct 29, 2015 03:44
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Until you get assholes replacing the plug with a normal one and cracking the aluminum pan by overtorquing.
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Oct 29, 2015 04:14
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BlackMK4 posted:Until you get assholes replacing the plug with a normal one and cracking the aluminum pan by overtorquing. My father in law had to buy a new pan thanks to jiffy lube and this "one quick trick the customer will never notice!"
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Oct 29, 2015 04:43
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DefaultPeanut posted:Talking to Honda Tech line about it, it is a fairly common thing, as the cam is only splash lubed by the timing chain. There is a little stamped aluminum tray under the cam to help retain oil that it can dip into. That's a pretty poo poo design.
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Oct 29, 2015 06:15
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xzzy posted:The CRX had issues with the rear blinker cluster, lovely seals and water would trickle straight into it during a rain. So did DA Integras, except instead they'd fill up the trunk. dissss posted:Was even more fun if you happened to park facing downhill during a rain storm - once the tyre well was full water would flow though and soak into the rear seat squabs and eventually pool in the front foot wells (where the ECU was located) The cowl seal would also fail and fill up the front foot wells on Integras. SouthsideSaint posted:Yeah that era of gm required pulling the front bumper loose to change headlight bulbs My 2006 Saturn just requires removing 2 pins on each side, and the complete headlamp assembly literally falls out, held only by the headlamp bulb wires and turn/park/DRL bulb wires..  The first time I changed a bulb I figured I'd have to be a contortionist.. then opened the manual. The sedan version requires removing two dust caps in addition. And removing the park/turn/DRL lamp, which isn't shown in that illustration. I thought they stole that idea from the Suburban?
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Oct 29, 2015 06:56
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BlackMK4 posted:Until you get assholes replacing the plug with a normal one and cracking the aluminum pan by overtorquing. Well how many ratatatatas are you supposed to torque the drain plug to?
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Oct 29, 2015 07:59
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Powershift posted:Well how many ratatatatas are you supposed to torque the drain plug to? Probably just bap, maaaaybe bap bap at the most.
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Oct 29, 2015 08:03
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EightBit posted:That's a pretty poo poo design. It was a confusing time for Honda; they packaged a poo poo valvetran design with a three speed automatic that uses engine oil as ATF. No separate filter or dedicated cooler for the transmission, just an extra pump and a torque converter the size of your palm. Not so great of an idea to put in a utility quad that will see a shitload of abuse and deferred maintenance. This little bastard killed everything within a 1 foot radius. 
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Oct 29, 2015 08:11
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The drawbacks of excessive wheel slip. http://imgur.com/S2f8LtC
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Oct 29, 2015 10:58
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Raluek posted:Probably just bap, maaaaybe bap bap at the most. they usually have crush washers, right, like a spark plug? bap plus 45 degrees? 
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Oct 29, 2015 11:14
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