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spog posted:Do you have one of those? Nah I don't
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Nov 26, 2015 14:22
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Uthor posted:Had an oops. Now that I got a look at it in the morning, I can see through the broken headlight into the engine bay and there's some wiring out in the open. It's supposed to rain all weekend and I have a long drive home on Sunday. I should cover the breakage with some plastic, right?
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Nov 26, 2015 17:52
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0toShifty posted:Check it out. Looks fairly easy except for getting those screws - they're T20 torx. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zzHThw8z3Ok I saw this video doing some research on the problem, I'll have to look into it when I get back home from holiday trabels. Overall it doesn't look to bad unless the actuator isn't the issue and it's something that requires the dashboard to be ripped apart.
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Nov 26, 2015 19:30
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Uthor posted:Now that I got a look at it in the morning, I can see through the broken headlight into the engine bay and there's some wiring out in the open. It's supposed to rain all weekend and I have a long drive home on Sunday. I should cover the breakage with some plastic, right? If you have some clear plastic or just some strong packing tape - that'd work fine. Don't go crazy - everything in your engine bay is meant to deal with some water - do this mainly to protect the bulbs and keep them working for safety.
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Nov 26, 2015 19:55
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SpeedFreek posted:I always thought that if the ECU is pulling timing to correct for lower octane fuel then knock/engine damage has already occurred. Damage is cumulative, not necessarily immediate.
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Nov 26, 2015 19:56
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0toShifty posted:If you have some clear plastic or just some strong packing tape - that'd work fine. Don't go crazy - everything in your engine bay is meant to deal with some water - do this mainly to protect the bulbs and keep them working for safety. The bulbs don't work. At least the headlight doesn't. The other is only on when I flash to pass with the headlights OFF (DRL on), so doesn't get any use at all. I guess I can hold the stalk during my drive and not have any taillights. 
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Nov 26, 2015 20:30
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I didn't see a tire/wheel thread, so I thought I could post this here. I am contemplating one or two (definitely no more than five) winter trips into snowy regions (Yosemite area). But since I live in Santa Barbara, 99% of my trips don't need winter tires. In addition, I don't have enough space in my place to store these winter tires for potential trips next year. Is there a middle ground? Will a tire store allow me to 'rent' the snow tires for a month? Or am I better off buying the tires and then selling them once my trips are over?
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Nov 26, 2015 20:46
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It depends. What kind of vehicle, are you going to be sticking to urban/maintained road areas or going off-road, that kind of stuff. If you're sticking to the towns and highways, I wouldn't bother with winter tires at all. I mean, how strong is the resale market in Santa Barbara for snow tires? Chains are a good backup plan, and a lot cheaper. If you buy them from Les Schwab and don't use them, they'll buy the chains back at the end of the season. Godholio fucked around with this message at 21:13 on Nov 26, 2015 |
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Nov 26, 2015 21:11
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theHUNGERian posted:I didn't see a tire/wheel thread, so I thought I could post this here. If you have decent all-seasons on your car, you should be pretty okay. Maybe get a set of tire chains to get you out of a tough spot.
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Nov 26, 2015 21:11
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Godholio posted:It depends. What kind of vehicle, are you going to be sticking to urban/maintained road areas or going off-road, that kind of stuff. 2012 Subaru Outback with Continental ProContact GX currently installed (came with car). I will stick to paved roads, but I don't know how well they will be maintained. There are plenty of road closures in Yosemite/Sequoia each winter, and we are expecting above average precipitation this year. Tire chains is a no-brainer. Any recommendations?
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Nov 26, 2015 21:34
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If you get in to something that requires chains to get out of, you're better off calling AAA.
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Nov 26, 2015 21:40
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Ozmiander posted:If you get in to something that requires chains to get out of, you're better off calling AAA. My parents used to drive with chains all the time, and they never got into an accident. Granted, they were surrounded by better drivers (Europe). I would probably limit the use of chains to turning the gently caress around.
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Nov 26, 2015 22:05
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Ozmiander posted:If you get in to something that requires chains to get out of, you're better off calling AAA. There aren't enough AAA trucks in Idaho/Montana/E Washington to cover all of the people that use chains every day in the winter. Chains/cables are a totally viable, cheap option if you practice putting them on once before heading out.
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Nov 26, 2015 22:06
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My mate is frankensteining BMW M60 heads/other paraphernalia onto an M62 block. The donor block is from a car that's done around 100,000 lazy km's and got written off from a rear impact. It's an alloy block with nikasil bores. If the bores are within spec and not too scuffed up, is it ok to just stick new piston rings in? Or is it safer to stick with the old ones?
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Nov 26, 2015 22:13
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Is there any autocrossing directory? I'm not seeing anything for Northern Colorado. Rallycross would also be cool.
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Nov 26, 2015 23:12
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Maybe not a small enough question for this thread, but not a "serious" enough topic for a dedicated thread, either... So, I'm writing a script for a comic book, and I need some help with keeping the automotive stuff not-stupid: it's not important at all to the plot, but I want to get it right, plus I don't want the story to feel generic. In the episode I'm writing, I have a bank robbery with a high speed escape. The getaway car is a throw-away beater shitbox that has had some ghetto performance work done. The setting is an analogue of mid-60s Europe, so small cars with lovely I-4 engines and inadequate wheels and suspensions, inadequate everything really. The car will probably end up more conspicuous (noisier, weird-looking, etc.) which may give me ideas for gimmicks/twists for the story, or make me rethink it outright: this is a good thing Anyway. I have a couple ideas on the work that could be done, but I don't know how useful (or stupid) they'd be, like: stripping interiors and other unnecessary parts, adding/replacing carburetors, straight pipe exhausts, swapping in a sports car gearbox for a higher top speed. I had considered a supercharger but I read a little on them and it seems a little harder than I thought, it looks like you'd need a kit or to machine some gears to mate the blower to the driveshaft. The setting is central-European (think Ronin or C'etait un rendez-vous: tight corners, hills, stone-paved roads, etc.), so improvements to wheels and suspensions are important, but I know poo poo about that. I've wondered about a rollcage, outside of safety they improve chassis rigidity AFAIK, but was this common knowledge in the 60s? Of course it isn't really Europe and it isn't really the 60s, so I can throw out some limitations if I want, like for example bigger engines because I can decide there never was an oil crisis OK so, before I embarrass myself further, the question: how do you make an uncatchable getaway car out of a 60s sedan/five door hatchback (has to sit five, not necessarily comfortably), on a budget that consists of the parts you can steal by night from a junkyard and with no tool more sophisticated than welding equipment? Getting it done quick and cheap is the only priority, the base car is stolen, and it doesn't have to last for long. I can also accept that I had an overall stupid idea, and alternative suggestions. Thanks
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Nov 26, 2015 23:54
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Have you watched the original Italian Job?
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Nov 27, 2015 00:09
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Slavvy posted:My mate is frankensteining BMW M60 heads/other paraphernalia onto an M62 block. The donor block is from a car that's done around 100,000 lazy km's and got written off from a rear impact. It's an alloy block with nikasil bores. If the bores are within spec and not too scuffed up, is it ok to just stick new piston rings in? Or is it safer to stick with the old ones? The M62 is alusil, not nikasil. If the bores are clean and within spec (and with that kind of mileage I can't see them being anything but), I'd just leave it be frankly.
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Nov 27, 2015 01:09
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Uthor posted:The bulbs don't work. At least the headlight doesn't. The other is only on when I flash to pass with the headlights OFF (DRL on), so doesn't get any use at all. I guess I can hold the stalk during my drive and not have any taillights. You can count on meeting a lot of cops. They're not fans of one eyed cars.
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Nov 27, 2015 03:27
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I figure. I have a police report and it happened on Wednesday, so it's not like I had a chance to get it fixed anywhere. I already started a claim and I'll have it in the shop ASAP after I talk to my agent Monday. (I'm not about to drop $400+ on a new HID setup before getting the insurance involved, even if I could find one somewhere over the weekend.)
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Nov 27, 2015 03:41
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Uthor posted:I figure. I have a police report and it happened on Wednesday, so it's not like I had a chance to get it fixed anywhere. Why do you think that matters to the legality of driving a broken car? Sure, you might get someone in a good mood who will give you some kind of break, but a police report about how you ended up with a busted rear end not-anymore-road-legal car is not a pass to drive it.
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Nov 27, 2015 03:50
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Talk to your insurance about a rental. Like Motronic said, it's not legal to drive it in its current condition. You'll probably get away with it during the day without hassle. Or if you don't have rental coverage (assuming it was your fault or an animal strike), uh... rent a cheap car?
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Nov 27, 2015 04:03
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Motronic posted:Why do you think that matters to the legality of driving a broken car? It didn't cross my mind? Eh. I'm far from home, don't plan on driving it until Sunday (have my parents' car), and plan on leaving here early on Sunday so I'm not driving at night. I'll chance it. It was a deer strike and it was already well after sunset and the cop didn't saying anything one way or the other about not driving it. I'm not worried about it. I'll get a rental once I'm back home so I don't have to deal with repairing it half way across the state. Thanks for the concern.
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Nov 27, 2015 04:10
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hackbunny posted:So, I'm writing a script for a comic book, and I need some help with keeping the automotive stuff not-stupid totalnewbie posted:Have you watched the original Italian Job? Some cars of that era to ponder, if for no other reason than the 60's Euro styling: Karmann Ghia BMW "New Class" (this includes the very-well-regarded 2002) Fiat 125 Volvo 140 Series Saab 96 Aston Martin DBS - pay attention to the Weber carbs swap mentioned in the wiki article, something like that could be semi-plausibly done to any 60's car to make it work the way your comic script wants it to. And as long as you're watching of-the-era movies, check out Get Carter for more Michael Cain, and any of the Bond movies from the 60's and 70's will have a few fun car scenes. Also: Rendezvous (1976, Paris) ExecuDork fucked around with this message at 05:33 on Nov 27, 2015 |
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Nov 27, 2015 05:19
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Something that would fit your bill would be an Opel Kadett B. It's a cheap run of the mill 4 cyl sedan that's somewhat fashionable and had endless performance variations so its not unbelievable that somebody would be able to cobble together a half decent performance model on a dime. Also watch Bullitt. That film will tell you everything you need to know about 1960s car chases. Edit: its not a sedan but the Ford Capri. F1DriverQuidenBerg fucked around with this message at 05:58 on Nov 27, 2015 |
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Nov 27, 2015 05:53
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Car is a 2003 Vauxhal/Opel Corsa C with the 1.2 Z12XE engine. I've started noticing an intermittent ticking sound that only seems to happen once the engine has warmed up. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H3-fwkPM12A Does that sound like the timing chain? Is a certain amount of noise to be expected, or does this need to be addressed? Haven't noticed any other issues, seems to be running fine, no check engine light. e: 55k miles. Pierre Chaton fucked around with this message at 12:47 on Nov 27, 2015 |
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Nov 27, 2015 09:54
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I have a 2003 Chrysler Concorde (190k miles) that is a piece of poo poo. But I got it for free a few years ago after studying abroad. I assume it's a bad thing if you hear a loud, repetitive grinding/mechanical clanking/knocking/clunking type noise coming from somewhere near the front axle? I originally thought I might have had a nail in the tire or something, but it's neither the tires nor the engine (there's no sound when I'm at an idle). The sound gets faster in accordance with my speed, to the point where my car was violently shaking on the highway when I was driving home today. Also, I've noticed I need to hold my steering wheel a bit to the left in order to go straight. Is my front axle about to spontaneously explode? Oh, also, it goes away when I start to apply the brakes. Grouco fucked around with this message at 02:58 on Nov 28, 2015 |
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Nov 28, 2015 02:55
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A friend recently bought a 1987 BMW 635 csi. He wants me to help him replace the pads and rotors all around. I have only done pads and rotors on an old jeep and some Subarus. Are there any special things or tools I should know about or is it pretty standard?
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Nov 28, 2015 03:27
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It'll have allen key calipers sliding calipers - they're like a 7mm allen key and you undo the sliders themselves to get the calipers off. Totally normal in every other way though. Unless it's an M6 in which case it'll have fixed piston calipers on the front with the little pin things you have to knock out.
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Nov 28, 2015 06:36
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I don't know if old BMW's have them but for some calipers you need a special tool to compress the piston. It's a special tool that twists and compresses at the same time. My VW has calipers like that for the rears. Might want to check on that.
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Nov 28, 2015 09:02
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Nope. Those calipers are only on cars where the handbrake operation is built into the rear calipers. The e24 has a drum-in-disc handbrake and the rear calipers are totally conventional.
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Nov 28, 2015 09:04
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Good to know, thanks. E: now it finally makes sense to me why they need the threaded piston. 
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Nov 28, 2015 09:13
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spankmeister posted:Good to know, thanks.
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Nov 28, 2015 10:05
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Thanks for the tips folks.
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Nov 28, 2015 12:09
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I believe the 6, like many BMWs, uses an allen head for the countersunk retaining screw. Yes, they can rust and chew up in exactly the way you'd expect. Be prepared for that. Note: In my experience, where calipers do use a screw mechanism for the handbrake, a generic pin spanner on the slots or a pair of channel lock pliers on the very end of the piston (outside the sealing area) works as well or better than the tools that try to integrate a screw back tool into a "regular" pad spreader. If you're going to buy a tool for doing them, make it just a multi-fit screw back pin tool on its own.
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Nov 28, 2015 20:48
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InitialDave posted:I believe the 6, like many BMWs, uses an allen head for the countersunk retaining screw. Yes, they can rust and chew up in exactly the way you'd expect. Be prepared for that. Using alternative methods works on most cars but some have incredibly cunty slot designs or a dust boot that prevents this. Also there's the pitfall where some cars have one side that turns backwards because reasons.
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Nov 28, 2015 22:50
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Slavvy posted:Using alternative methods works on most cars but some have incredibly cunty slot designs or a dust boot that prevents this. Also there's the pitfall where some cars have one side that turns backwards because reasons.
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Nov 28, 2015 23:19
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InitialDave posted:First point agreed. Second point... Turn it the other way? Sorry I wasn't clear, I was meaning that the turn-and-push tools you can get sometimes don't come with a reverse threaded shaft so they'll only help you with one side.
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Nov 28, 2015 23:24
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Ah, right. I've come to the conclusion that that unless the thread pitch on the tool is bang on that of the caliper (hint: it isn't), they're a pig to use either way.
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Nov 28, 2015 23:43
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One of the craziest tools I've seen at work is a pneumatic brake caliper piston compressor http://www.toolsource.com/pneumatic-brake-caliper-piston-compressor-p-99302.html It's insane - but it works freaking great. Most importantly - you can turn it either direction. It's utter overkill for a DIY mechanic. Still - I must have one.
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Nov 28, 2015 23:55
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