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Dammit I thought I checked every thread down to the October chat thread on page 3. Blind it is!
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Dec 10, 2015 14:42
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Uthor posted:I, too, have one as a rental! There's two levers on the floor, driver's side, to the left of the seat, next to the door sill. One's for the trunk, the other is for the fuel. Turns out it's an Elantra GT. Looks like the door is just tied to the central locking mechanism. Awaiting confirmation now.
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Dec 11, 2015 03:27
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2009 BMW Z4 (E89) sdrive30. Sucked in a lot of dust at the track, want to replace air filters. Cabin air filter is part 64 31 9 195 194. Is there any reason not to just get the also-fit brands for around half as much as the OEM/superior-german-adhesives filter? Planning on getting the charcoal ones regardless. http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperCat/4803/BMW_4803_VENTAC_pg1.htm http://smile.amazon.com/Mann-Filter-CUK-2339-Filter-Activated/dp/B001DRHMN2/ And funny story, the engine air filter shows two very different shapes as "valid" for my car, same question, but I will pop out my filter to know which shape I should buy. http://smile.amazon.com/MAHLE-Original-LX-1250-Filter/dp/B0080E52L0 http://smile.amazon.com/Mann-Filter-W0133-1846450-MAN-Mann-Filter-Air/dp/B005BFL1L6/r http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperCat/4803/BMW_4803_BASFLT_pg1.htm
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Dec 11, 2015 05:43
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2000 Honda Accord LX, 5spd. Recently replaced rear brake lines, drums, shoes, hardware, and drums leading to major sunken cost fallacy. Fuel line is leaking vapor but not liquid causing a strong smell of gas, clutch is slipping (Exedy "sport" clutch and lightweight flywheel with 60k miles, most of which was bumper to bumper stop and go traffic , steering rack is leaking a quart of of PS fluid a week, SRS light has been on for 4 years at this point and the airbag probably never would have worked. Front and rear sway bar end links are all blown out and I have all 4 replacements plus the Acura RS stiff rear sway bar with bushings. I have a driveway but not a garage. My credit rating is mediocre after several years of being the only one in my family with a job. I need to bite the bullet and buy a new [used/certified pre-owned] car, don't I? GWBBQ fucked around with this message at 06:28 on Dec 11, 2015 |
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Dec 11, 2015 06:25
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H110Hawk posted:2009 BMW Z4 (E89) sdrive30. Sucked in a lot of dust at the track, want to replace air filters. Some brands are better than others. I usually just get Bosch as it's OEM but doesn't have the VAG logos and part numbers but is the exact same part otherwise. I don't know what BMW uses tbh.
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Dec 11, 2015 06:30
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GWBBQ posted:2000 Honda Accord LX, 5spd. Recently replaced rear brake lines, drums, shoes, hardware, and drums leading to major sunken cost fallacy. Fuel line is leaking vapor but not liquid causing a strong smell of gas, clutch is slipping (Exedy "sport" clutch and lightweight flywheel with 60k miles, most of which was bumper to bumper stop and go traffic , steering rack is leaking a quart of of PS fluid a week, SRS light has been on for 4 years at this point and the airbag probably never would have worked. Front and rear sway bar end links are all blown out and I have all 4 replacements plus the Acura RS stiff rear sway bar with bushings. Would you rather make 60 payments, or the equivalent of 1-2 by fixing it?
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Dec 11, 2015 06:31
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spankmeister posted:Some brands are better than others. I usually just get Bosch as it's OEM but doesn't have the VAG logos and part numbers but is the exact same part otherwise. On my Jetta Mk4 2.slow I was throwing parts at the coil pack and the sparkplug wires from Autozone had the VAG logos half heartedly ground off such that you could still see ~50% of the VW/Audi on it. Should I just pop out my current filters and buy whichever manufacturer it says on them then? Seems reasonable to me.
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Dec 11, 2015 06:34
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spankmeister posted:Some brands are better than others. I usually just get Bosch as it's OEM but doesn't have the VAG logos and part numbers but is the exact same part otherwise. I don't know what BMW uses tbh. I'm fairly certain BMW uses MANN filters. You could probably also go with something decent but aftermarket like a wix (part no. 24518) which has activated carbon filters at a cheaper ($16 v $21) price and still has the exact same specs/filtering. And I think all 4 major chain parts stores anymore have a line that is pretty much OEM replacement parts with their branding. Ex: O'Reilly's has Import Direct and Advance Auto bought Carquest with sole intention of getting their access to the worldpac line. Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 06:52 on Dec 11, 2015 |
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Dec 11, 2015 06:47
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GWBBQ posted:2000 Honda Accord LX, 5spd. Recently replaced rear brake lines, drums, shoes, hardware, and drums leading to major sunken cost fallacy. Fuel line is leaking vapor but not liquid causing a strong smell of gas, clutch is slipping (Exedy "sport" clutch and lightweight flywheel with 60k miles, most of which was bumper to bumper stop and go traffic , steering rack is leaking a quart of of PS fluid a week, SRS light has been on for 4 years at this point and the airbag probably never would have worked. Front and rear sway bar end links are all blown out and I have all 4 replacements plus the Acura RS stiff rear sway bar with bushings. As long as you stay up with timing belts, that car will run forever. Of course, being a 98-02 Accord, the paint will be falling off long before the engine even hiccups; my 01 LX had peeling clearcoat by 2007. I've seen F series engines (the 4 banger used in 90-02 Accords) with over half a million miles on them without anything beyond basic maintenance, and seen a couple with over a million miles on the original engine. You'll go through a distributor here and there, and probably a gearbox by then (since the synchros usually wear out by then), but those engines are hilariously durable as long as you feed them a timing belt now and then. A friend of mine has a 98 that's been run dry on oil multiple times now, has over 250k, and still runs decent (it's a bit rattly since, well, driven with the oil light lit solid for several days in a row multiple times, but it runs, and it's been rattling away for a year now without getting worse). Did you not replace the rear main seal when you did the clutch? 60k, even in traffic, shouldn't have killed it. Yeah, a clutch job is expensive, so is a steering rack, but you have to put serious effort into it if you want to make that car even think about hiccuping. As long as it's not dumping rust every time you hit a bump, it's worth keeping it on the road. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:07 on Dec 11, 2015 |
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Dec 11, 2015 06:57
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GWBBQ posted:2000 Honda Accord LX, 5spd. Recently replaced rear brake lines, drums, shoes, hardware, and drums leading to major sunken cost fallacy. Fuel line is leaking vapor but not liquid causing a strong smell of gas, clutch is slipping (Exedy "sport" clutch and lightweight flywheel with 60k miles, most of which was bumper to bumper stop and go traffic , steering rack is leaking a quart of of PS fluid a week, SRS light has been on for 4 years at this point and the airbag probably never would have worked. Front and rear sway bar end links are all blown out and I have all 4 replacements plus the Acura RS stiff rear sway bar with bushings. Your accord should be covered under the Takata airbag recall. Check that out. Swaybar links you can do yourself in your driveway easily. The steering? Try and find where the leak is coming from - if it's just a hose - replace it yourself! Fuel vapor - is your check engine light on with an EVAP code? Clutch - I'm also saying rear main seal on that one.
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Dec 11, 2015 11:52
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Ozmiander posted:Would you rather make 60 payments, or the equivalent of 1-2 by fixing it? The clutch was replaced when the engine blew and had to be replaced a few weeks after I bought it (and two days after the dealer I bought it from was shut down for tax evasion and the owner fled the country  ) I assume the guy who replaced the engine would have checked or replaced the seals, but I did have some issues and had to take it back a couple of times so maybe he didn't do the greatest job. Alternately, this was the first car I owned with a manual transmission, I thought I was decent at driving stick when I got it but maybe I wasn't? I also checked back and it wasn't a sport clutch, it was this OEM replacement with lightweight flywheel.Yes I do have an EVAP code. I was planning to do the swaybar and links myself, I just need to find my missing jack stand. I'll put it up on ramps and check the power steering hoses this weekend. NHTSA site says the airbag recall is only 2001 onward, but I'll double check.
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Dec 11, 2015 16:08
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2009 Corolla LE Automatic transmission 82k miles, mostly suburb streets driving My rear brakes make a soft grinding (grinding is almost too harsh a term) when braking but only after I've started up my car after its been sitting for an hour or more. The sound only lasts a block or three and then doesn't return until I repeat that cycle of parking, returning to the car after a while, and starting it back up again.
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Dec 11, 2015 21:08
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GWBBQ posted:I'm mostly concerned about more stuff breaking as soon as this is fixed, but the responses are reassuring. I paid around $6000 for it about 6 years ago, I'm pretty sure I'm looking at around $2000 in repairs if the whole rack and pinion plus the clutch and flywheel need to be replaced. As long as you haven't been driving it with the clutch worn completely out (as in metal on metal contact), you should be able to reuse the flywheel with nothing more than resurfacing it. And even then, given the miles on it, as long as it wasn't starting to chatter, you could probably get away with just sanding the flywheel a bit. What the hell killed the original engine? Those things are built pretty tough; overheating or a broken timing belt are usually the only things that gets them (and even then you're normally only looking at head work). That or, say, downshifting into 2nd instead of 4th at high speeds (did that to one Accord I owned, but had someone just slap new bearings in it afterwards for cheap, and drove it for another year or so).
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Dec 12, 2015 07:25
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Does anybody know how to make the clutch in a Toyota Tacoma *not* suck? My dad has a 2014 Tacoma, 4-cyl 5-speed and the clutch is easily the worst I've ever driven (with the exception of another early 90s Tacoma). It engages at the very top of the pedal, and the the engagement zone feels like it's about 1/4". He's tried bleeding it a couple times and complaining to the dealer, but that is met with a "they're all like that". In my limited sample that is kinda true, but internet research does no necessarily confirm. And, even if they arr "all like that" from the factory, are there any aftermarket options which are better? Thanks!
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Dec 12, 2015 15:01
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mungtor posted:Does anybody know how to make the clutch in a Toyota Tacoma *not* suck? My dad has a 2014 Tacoma, 4-cyl 5-speed and the clutch is easily the worst I've ever driven (with the exception of another early 90s Tacoma). It is hard to tell from vernacular usage, but does the clutch engage almost immediately as you start releasing the pedal, or almost all the way off of the pedal?
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Dec 12, 2015 17:54
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EightBit posted:It is hard to tell from vernacular usage, but does the clutch engage almost immediately as you start releasing the pedal, or almost all the way off of the pedal? Sorry about that. Almost all the way off the pedal. It's disengaged from the floor all the way up through 90% of the travel, and then it engages very sharply.
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Dec 12, 2015 17:58
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mungtor posted:Sorry about that. Almost all the way off the pedal. It's disengaged from the floor all the way up through 90% of the travel, and then it engages very sharply. Depending on the pedal/cmc assembly, you may be able to alter the amount that the cmc rod screws into the pedal, changing the bite point of the clutch a bit. It is something to try in very small increments to make sure you don't gently caress something up. Some pedal assemblies also have an adjustable upper stop, that can be messed with a bit too.
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Dec 12, 2015 18:20
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Is there a definitive best-bang-for-the-buck when it comes to coilovers for street and occasional track days?
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Dec 13, 2015 00:11
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How can you possibly expect an answer without telling us what color your car is?
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Dec 13, 2015 00:24
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My Rhythmic Crotch posted:Is there a definitive best-bang-for-the-buck when it comes to coilovers for street and occasional track days?
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Dec 13, 2015 00:28
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InitialDave posted:Good standard dampers and springs, spend the money saved on tyres, practice. The answer is almost always this. Don't forget decent brake pads too.
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Dec 13, 2015 01:04
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Godholio posted:How can you possibly expect an answer without telling us what color your car is? On green cars, a nice and cheap upgrade is to just take the stock suspension off a blue car.
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Dec 13, 2015 01:07
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Don't use red car suspension kits, though. Way too aggressive.
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Dec 13, 2015 06:00
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mungtor posted:Does anybody know how to make the clutch in a Toyota Tacoma *not* suck? My dad has a 2014 Tacoma, 4-cyl 5-speed and the clutch is easily the worst I've ever driven (with the exception of another early 90s Tacoma). mungtor posted:Sorry about that. Almost all the way off the pedal. It's disengaged from the floor all the way up through 90% of the travel, and then it engages very sharply. At least he has a 2014 where they fixed the squeaking throw-out bearing.
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Dec 13, 2015 07:20
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Geirskogul posted:Don't use red car suspension kits, though. Way too aggressive.
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Dec 13, 2015 07:50
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My Rhythmic Crotch posted:Good info, thanks In all seriousness the answer does depend on what car you're driving. Some models have choices out the rear end for anything you could possibly want to do, some have fuckall, and there's a lot of garbage out there.
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Dec 13, 2015 08:17
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Blinkman987 posted:2009 Corolla LE Automatic transmission Is it raining a lot lately? If so it's probably just surface rust grinding off.
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Dec 13, 2015 08:47
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BMW E46, 325i wagon. My power steering went a few weeks back, finally got around to replacing the pump on Friday and it's working great. The only issue is that I now have that same groaning sound the old pump was making when I turn at low speeds. I did the whole priming, filling, refilling thing with the new pump and the fluid isn't leaking out anywhere - could it be air in the system, do I need to bleed it or do another flush/refill? Or could this be something in the rack itself that's killing my power steering pumps?
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Dec 13, 2015 09:08
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1998 Honda Civic I think my air mode motor went out on me this morning, and I have no idea what the sequence of diagnosing/replacing should be. For the last few weeks I was hearing a noticeable whirring noise when toggling between any air mode, before it finally stopped working this morning. Judging from what I was hearing, I'm expecting some manner of mechanical failure, but I honestly don't know enough about cars to feel confidant in that call.
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Dec 13, 2015 13:35
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Enourmo posted:In all seriousness the answer does depend on what car you're driving. Some models have choices out the rear end for anything you could possibly want to do, some have fuckall, and there's a lot of garbage out there.
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Dec 13, 2015 17:50
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What ls?
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Dec 13, 2015 18:01
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LS2  It will be a while before I have time and space to actually build anything
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Dec 13, 2015 18:20
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Cthulhuite posted:BMW E46, 325i wagon. Either there's still air in the system or the replacement pump is also faulty. This isn't particularly farfetched because BMW power steering pumps are terrible poo poo.
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Dec 13, 2015 18:59
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2004 Honda Accord It's been starting up a bit slower than I'd like a few weeks ago, but today it will turn a few times and not start up, eventually barely turning once and not starting up. The car is stuck at my apartment and I have no friends/family that could give me a ride to an autoparts store, I'm not sure if it's a sparkplug or battery issue. Is there any way I can figure out what the issue is to give you guys more information or any advice on how the hell I can get my car fixed when it's immobile would be appreciated. I can probably take a taxi or uber to an autoparts store, if I know what to pick up.
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Dec 13, 2015 21:40
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Do you have a multimeter?
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Dec 13, 2015 21:45
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InitialDave posted:Do you have a multimeter? No unfortunately.
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Dec 13, 2015 21:55
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Ok, at a bare minimum, I think you need to get the car's battery on charge, and have a multimeter and some basic hand tools in order to make any kind of progress. My first instinct is that you have an issue with the battery itself, the charging system, or the wiring for the charging and starting systems. When you crank it, was it showing any other symptoms other than being slower than it was before? Dash lights dimming etc? Is there anything noticeably wrong with the battery or main cabling? Corrosion on contacts, signs of overheating like buckled battery casing or melted cable insulation?
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Dec 13, 2015 22:12
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How old is the battery? After a while they do just straight up die, and since it sounds like it's been going downhill for a while I'd bet that's what you have here. I'd get a jump start from someone and get to the nearest auto parts place, all of them do free battery/charging systems tests and if it's the battery you can just buy a new one and swap it on the spot.
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Dec 13, 2015 22:24
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Got AAA coming by to check out the battery and/or replace it if need be. Hoping just that is the issue, don't mind buying a battery from them. They said they'll check the starter and some other stuff as well. Hopefully it goes well, thanks for the info guys. I'll definitely be more prepared to diagnose/charge/etc after today, first time I've ever had a battery die on me like this in that my lights and stuff still go on but it doesn't seem like its getting enough juice to turn it over more than it needs to. Hopefully it's a simple fix, I can't really afford anything over 1000 bucks or so repair-wise.
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Dec 13, 2015 22:35
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Ive got a Nissan Titan with the 5.5ft bed. Who/where is a good spot to shop for tonneau covers? Whats something to look for so I dont buy total poo poo?
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Dec 13, 2015 23:09
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