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Perfect, thanks.
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Jan 2, 2016 07:20
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Should I hook up my C7 to my desktop and set it up first, or should I just directly power it on and connect my bridge moded router to it and let that router configure it first?
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Jan 3, 2016 02:43
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ufarn posted:Should I hook up my C7 to my desktop and set it up first, or should I just directly power it on and connect my bridge moded router to it and let that router configure it first? It doesn't really matter, the WAN port is defaulted to being firewalled to the internet and NAT is on so the LAN side and wifi are the main things you'll need to configure.
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Jan 3, 2016 05:00
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Rexxed posted:It doesn't really matter, the WAN port is defaulted to being firewalled to the internet and NAT is on so the LAN side and wifi are the main things you'll need to configure.
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Jan 3, 2016 13:05
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Not sure if this is the best thread for this question, but... My new motherboard has an integrated a/c WiFi card, and it came with this antenna: It works fine, but I don't like the long, flimsy cables or the plastic square either. I'd like to replace it with a pair of "bunny ears"-type antennas, or another more aesthetically pleasing shape. What should I know in order to purchase an antenna that is compatible and doesn't suck poo poo? E.g. do decibel ratings matter, or are they just a marketing gimmick? Does the antenna care in the slightest about what WiFi standard it's being used for - meaning I should look for one that is explicitly described as suitable for a/c transmission - or is it irrelevant ?
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Jan 3, 2016 16:03
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NihilCredo posted:Not sure if this is the best thread for this question, but... My new motherboard has an integrated a/c WiFi card, and it came with this antenna: The gain, dBi, does matter but can also cause problems with noise/interference. The only thing that really matters about the antenna is if its designed for the frequency ranges its supposed to be used for. I used that ASRock antenna for a bit and it worked just fine. It was velcroed under my desk out of sight.
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Jan 3, 2016 16:17
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NihilCredo posted:Not sure if this is the best thread for this question, but... My new motherboard has an integrated a/c WiFi card, and it came with this antenna: The decibel and gain stuff is basically a measure of how sensitive the antenna is. Think of a microphone that you would use on stage. You want it sensitive enough to pick up your voice at a reasonable distance so you don't have to yell into it or hold it a millimeter from your mouth (so it can "hear" your wifi router just fine) but you also don't want it to be so sensitive that it picks up your breathing and the sound of your clothes moving around as you walk across the stage and broadcasts that too. (noise on the spectrum that interferes with the actual wifi operation) Its hard to tell what is best without a site survey and a lot of experience. Generally, the antennas that come with most things are fine for most usage cases though. The frequency an antenna can receive or transmit on easily depends on its physical size because of physics. There are creative things you can do with power input and the equation governing frequency vs wavelength and other complex mathematical crap but basically, make sure the antenna you buy supports the wifi spec you want to use it with. It actually does matter. This is why dual band devices have separate antennas for the 2.4 and 5ghz bands. Its generally cheaper to make two cheap antennas that naturally fit those frequencies due to their physical size than to mess around with the physics needed to get one antenna to do both. Antillie fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Jan 4, 2016 |
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Jan 4, 2016 17:29
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ufarn posted:Could you elaborate on this? I don't have that much experience messing around with routers short of disabling firewalls and forwarding ports. What he means is that the C7 comes pre configured out of the box in a way that will probably "just work" in the situation you described. You will need to setup the wifi by picking an SSID and a password but you probably won't need to do much else unless you want to for whatever reason. I would just hook it up to the bridge mode thingy like normal and go from there.
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Jan 4, 2016 17:38
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What's the threads general opinion of TP LINK gear? I needed to replace my parents' Asus DSL router which suddenly decided to stop sharing the WAN connection out, but the TP LINK (W8970) has been a bit of a mixed bag. The CP is surprisingly good, the range out of the box was abysmal but firmware updates seemed to fix that. However, I'm in real fear of ever rebooting the thing as whether the wifi will connect is so dodgy. Last time I spent hours doing factory resets, and trying to connect any way possible and it just wouldn't let anything else on. Their house is all Apple gear (iPad, Apple TV belonging to them, iPhone, MBA when I'm there) but there is a 'barely alive' Windows box there which I've had to rely on to connect via wire when nothing in the house will connect via wifi. For some reason after going into the control panel and messing with some of the network settings, things were able to join again. I have no idea what's gong on with it. I'm thinking of returning/selling it and getting something that's known to play well with regards to stability. It's not as if they need anything more than the DSL modem part, a LAN port or two, and decent enough range. EL BROMANCE fucked around with this message at 17:51 on Jan 4, 2016 |
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Jan 4, 2016 17:47
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The Archer line (C5, C7, C9) is pretty good and offers great bang for your buck in price/performance (don't bother with the C8, its almost a C7 that costs almost as much as a C9). However if it is an Apple house then the Airport Extreme is probably worth looking into. Its pricey but its a high quality piece of hardware and Apple products really like other Apple products in an almost creepy sort of way. The time capsule (or an external drive plugged into the Airport Extreme) is also an option if adding an easy backup solution for the various Macs would be a plus.
Antillie fucked around with this message at 18:53 on Jan 4, 2016 |
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Jan 4, 2016 18:51
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I am having Router Problems I think. I just moved to a new apartment and got Comcast's cable internet with something totally insane and excessive like 100mbps download speeds or whatever. I got a Surfboard 6183 to drive it and that seems like it works pretty well. When I plug into the WAN over Ethernet the speeds are very high. However... I got an Arris AC1750 to power my wireless and LAN. It was pretty well-reviewed, newer, and seemed powerful enough to handle the traffic. But it is totally sucking rear end! When downloading something over the wifi, my rates are around 30-150 KBPS (!) and it tanks the entire network - no other devices can function. Running speed tests gives me around 200 kbps down and >12 mbps up (which seems odd to me). The wifi will also just lose its internet connection for a few seconds now and then. Using the LAN over an ethernet cable is no better. Did I just get a poo poo router? I'm OK buying a better one if I need to. Do I need to change some settings? Like, what the heck is going on here?
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Jan 5, 2016 03:39
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Wardende posted:I am having Router Problems I think. I just moved to a new apartment and got Comcast's cable internet with something totally insane and excessive like 100mbps download speeds or whatever. I got a Surfboard 6183 to drive it and that seems like it works pretty well. When I plug into the WAN over Ethernet the speeds are very high. However... I got an Arris AC1750 to power my wireless and LAN. It was pretty well-reviewed, newer, and seemed powerful enough to handle the traffic. But it is totally sucking rear end! When downloading something over the wifi, my rates are around 30-150 KBPS (!) and it tanks the entire network - no other devices can function. Running speed tests gives me around 200 kbps down and >12 mbps up (which seems odd to me). The wifi will also just lose its internet connection for a few seconds now and then. Using the LAN over an ethernet cable is no better. It sounds like a dud router if it works normally while wired and wireless kills everything. There's a very remote chance that you have a bunch of neighbors clogging up your wireless spectrum that would lower the wifi speeds, but it shouldn't cause everything to slow down at the same time. I'd see about a warranty replacement or consider a TP-Link Archer C7 or something.
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Jan 5, 2016 04:48
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Just for giggles check if there's newer firmware available for the Arris router, then try resetting that router to defaults again, both w/ reset button and through the web config pages. Then try setting it up with the minimal config to get internet and do your speed testing again. If you can't get full speed with a vanilla setup then the router's a dud.
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Jan 5, 2016 18:12
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Antillie posted:The Archer line (C5, C7, C9) is pretty good and offers great bang for your buck in price/performance (don't bother with the C8, its almost a C7 that costs almost as much as a C9). However if it is an Apple house then the Airport Extreme is probably worth looking into. Its pricey but its a high quality piece of hardware and Apple products really like other Apple products in an almost creepy sort of way. The time capsule (or an external drive plugged into the Airport Extreme) is also an option if adding an easy backup solution for the various Macs would be a plus. I think you're right, and I'll look into getting an Apple Extreme if its within their budget. I was always 50/50 about them because I didn't like the idea of the CP being done over an app (does it still do this?), but the idea of it never loving up when I'm many thousands of miles away is reassuring. e: ah crap, they don't have DSL modems in built. Kinda need that otherwise it's even more hardware daisy chained together. I'll keep looking! Maybe those Archers would work better, I'll give them a read up. Cheers
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Jan 6, 2016 17:19
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Having your DSL modem and your router be separate physical devices is a good thing. Just saying. Modem/router combo devices tend to suck for one reason or another.
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Jan 6, 2016 23:18
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EL BROMANCE posted:I think you're right, and I'll look into getting an Apple Extreme if its within their budget. I was always 50/50 about them because I didn't like the idea of the CP being done over an app (does it still do this?) Yeah, management is still done with a dedicated app available for Mac OS X or Windows. If you check this page they will sometimes have refurbished Airport Extremes at a decent discount from retail. And when Apple does refurbished, it's done to their exacting standards, so it's like getting a slightly used version that's all fixed, goons in the Mac HW thread will attest to this.
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Jan 6, 2016 23:53
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Binary Badger posted:Yeah, management is still done with a dedicated app available for Mac OS X or Windows.
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Jan 6, 2016 23:54
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Binary Badger posted:Yeah, management is still done with a dedicated app available for Mac OS X or Windows. Apple refurb stuff is top quality, easily as good as new and comes with the same warranty as new, you can even add apple care to it.
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Jan 6, 2016 23:56
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Is there a software package which lets you replicate the Intel Killer NIC functionality wherein you can tie applications to a specific network adapter?
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Jan 7, 2016 00:59
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Google suggest came up with a few, try this: ForceBindIP from our resident goon R1CH http://www.howtogeek.com/117890/how-to-force-an-application-to-use-a-specific-network-card/
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Jan 7, 2016 01:13
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MrMoo posted:Google suggest came up with a few, try this: ForceBindIP from our resident goon R1CH Perfect, thanks. One more question, to disable this would I bind an application to 0.0.0.0?
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Jan 7, 2016 01:33
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Extra super-dumb question: is there any way I can combine something like git-annex assistant to provide a maximal ad-hoc transfer system? Or ideally a device-level mesh layer? It would be super cool if my devices were smart enough to realize that there was a gap in my gigabit-ethernet and establish a min(m,n)xBW sized multiadapter pipeline, where M is the number of devices on side A and N is the number of devices on side B, and BW is the amount of bandwidth each ad-hoc channel could push. Ideally SSH authenticated or some poo poo like that. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 02:27 on Jan 7, 2016 |
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Jan 7, 2016 02:24
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Antillie posted:Having your DSL modem and your router be separate physical devices is a good thing. Just saying. Modem/router combo devices tend to suck for one reason or another. Yeah if it was for myself I'd have zero problem (I have a cable modem going into a rt66 which is 'alright'), but I don't really want to add another point of failure when I can't support it. I know a dsl modem is unlikely to go down, but knowing my luck the second I'm out of town it'll fall over.
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Jan 7, 2016 02:58
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Anyone here use a VOIP like Vonage? (A little box that connects to ethernet and then a phone line comes out of it where I plug my phone into.) Annnnnyway, I use that for business. My home office is presently set up in a way where all my work poo poo is right where the internet comes in the house. Easy peasy. We just bought a house (closing today, in fact.) Where I want to put my office is a nice spot BUT it's not too close to the place the internet enters the house (and thusly where the modem/router go, and thusly where my Vonage plugs into for my phone.) Do these things work over wifi? (I googled a bit but can't tell..) If not, any clever ideas for how to simply hardwire? Powerline Ethernet? (I've always been a big fan but the last 2 places I rented they would trip breakers, so I'm gun shy.)
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Jan 8, 2016 17:44
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Power line Ethernet or Ethernet over coax if you have some unused coax lines.
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Jan 8, 2016 17:50
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Wifi never worked for our IP phones. It simply can't maintain a smooth connection for the entire length of a phone call so some dropping will happen. We were forced to run wires through our warehouse to hook them up. Powerline would give you quality issues at most,if anything, I'd try that first.
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Jan 8, 2016 18:12
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When I used Vonage, I was able to plug it into a phone jack. After that, all of the other phone jacks in the house were connected to Vonage. If you do this, you also have to unplug the phone line from the box outside your house (or wherever it comes in from the local phone utility).
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Jan 8, 2016 18:57
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mlnhd posted:When I used Vonage, I was able to plug it into a phone jack. After that, all of the other phone jacks in the house were connected to Vonage. If you do this, you also have to unplug the phone line from the box outside your house (or wherever it comes in from the local phone utility). A good suggestion but neither Coax nor phone jacks are in that room, sadly. Looks like Powerline Ethernet is my only option. Are there some good, speedy, hopefully-not-too-expensive options that might work also for my PS4? (Speed wise)
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Jan 8, 2016 19:04
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Use a cordless phone plugged into the Vonage device.
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Jan 8, 2016 19:13
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Not sure the signal will reach from where the Vonage base would be. I can test that though. Still interested in Powerline Ethernet suggestions for my PS4. 
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Jan 8, 2016 19:28
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Feenix posted:the place the internet enters the house Renting or buying? House or apartment?
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Jan 9, 2016 08:09
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CrazyLittle posted:Renting or buying? House or apartment? Buying. House. Got plans to do up the internet nicely one day but I work from home so I need to be up and running asap and there are bigger priorities for money in these early days. The finished basement is all concrete though so I can't get clever with wall ports too easily.
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Jan 9, 2016 08:22
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Feenix posted:Buying. House. Got plans to do up the internet nicely one day but I work from home so I need to be up and running asap and there are bigger priorities for money in these early days. VoIP is not going to like wifi, and concrete won't let wifi signals through anyways so you're going to have to get a cable into that space no matter what. If you're just looking for temporary you can get something silly like some bulk cat5 cable and crimp some ends on it, or buy a suitably long network cable pre-made. Once you're ready to do things properly, there a plenty of ways you can install proper wall jacks and cabling in that space using cable channels, crown moulding etc to hide the wires. If you get powerline adapters, you may want to verify what brand/model of circuit breakers you're using between your home office space, and the space where the internet comes into your house. I have (Siemens?) AFCI breakers in the spare bedroom where I wanted to test out powerline networking, and the powerline network signal caused a bunch of wacky problems: the coat closet motion-sensor light would stay constantly on, and the circuit breaker for one or both of the rooms would trip. Of course, if you have to stick with powerline, you can replace the AFCI breakers with newer ones that don't mangle the signal or falsely trip. CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 18:20 on Jan 9, 2016 |
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Jan 9, 2016 18:00
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CrazyLittle posted:VoIP is not going to like wifi, and concrete won't let wifi signals through anyways so you're going to have to get a cable into that space no matter what. If you're just looking for temporary you can get something silly like some bulk cat5 cable and crimp some ends on it, or buy a suitably long network cable pre-made. Once you're ready to do things properly, there a plenty of ways you can install proper wall jacks and cabling in that space using cable channels, crown moulding etc to hide the wires. Thanks for the good advice! I took a picture of the breaker box today when I was over there. Is there a way to tell what breakers are what? [Ed] not sure if this helps? 
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Jan 9, 2016 19:57
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The good news is that you have zero AFCI breakers since none of them have the "test" button that arc-fault detectors have. The bad news is that's totally not up to electrical code, heh. CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 22:47 on Jan 9, 2016 |
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Jan 9, 2016 22:45
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CrazyLittle posted:The good news is that you have zero AFCI breakers. The bad news is that's totally not up to electrical code, heh. Oh. :/ well I can get to remedying that soon. I plan to. We move into it next week. But in the interim, you think I'm a good candidate for Powerline Ethernet?
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Jan 9, 2016 22:47
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Feenix posted:Oh. :/ well I won't tell if you don't. Just don't stick a fork in the wall? There's no penalty nor incentive for homeowners to upgrade their breakers unless you hire an electrical contractor to do work on your wiring. As far as I know it's on the contractor/repairman to protect their license from NEC penalties. Yes, powerline should work "fine"... well as good as "fine" gets for powerline ethernet goes. CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 22:50 on Jan 9, 2016 |
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Jan 9, 2016 22:48
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CrazyLittle posted:I won't tell if you don't. Just don't stick a fork in the wall? There's no penalty nor incentive for homeowners to upgrade their breakers unless you hire an electrical contractor to do work on your wiring. As far as I know it's on the contractor/repairman to protect their license from NEC penalties. Thanks for the info. I'll steer this back to thread topic with this last question. What is "fine" for Powerline Ethernet? Is it better than "shifty wifi signal" or "halved repeater speeds"?
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Jan 9, 2016 22:53
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Should be better than any wifi repeater: http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-powerline-networking-kit/ Nothing holds a candle to actual gigabit-compatible cabling though.
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Jan 9, 2016 23:02
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CrazyLittle posted:Should be better than any wifi repeater: http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-powerline-networking-kit/ That'll come later.
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Jan 9, 2016 23:14
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