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I recently updated the wifi card in my old laptop to a new 802.11ac card, the Azurewave AW-CE123H, but I'm having problems getting it to connect (and stay connected) at ac speeds. For instance, I'm posting from this laptop, sitting in the same room as my Asus RT-AC66U router running the latest Tomato for it maybe 10 feet away, yet it's only connected at 54Mbps, g speed. I do need to run dual-band for all the older devices my family has that can't connect to 5GHz networks. My Nexus 6 connects at ac speeds just fine too, so the problem doesn't appear to be my router. Does anyone know what settings I should change to get this thing to connect at proper speed?
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Jan 17, 2016 19:51
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kid sinister posted:I recently updated the wifi card in my old laptop to a new 802.11ac card, the Azurewave AW-CE123H, but I'm having problems getting it to connect (and stay connected) at ac speeds. For instance, I'm posting from this laptop, sitting in the same room as my Asus RT-AC66U router running the latest Tomato for it maybe 10 feet away, yet it's only connected at 54Mbps, g speed. I do need to run dual-band for all the older devices my family has that can't connect to 5GHz networks. My Nexus 6 connects at ac speeds just fine too, so the problem doesn't appear to be my router. Does anyone know what settings I should change to get this thing to connect at proper speed? Are you on the same connection as other devices that only do G? Wifi will run at the speed of the slowest device connected to it, so you'd have to set your 2.4 to handle legacy devices, and your 5ghz to support AC only. That way you should get the full speeds.
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Jan 17, 2016 20:59
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Gothmog1065 posted:Are you on the same connection as other devices that only do G? Wifi will run at the speed of the slowest device connected to it, so you'd have to set your 2.4 to handle legacy devices, and your 5ghz to support AC only. That way you should get the full speeds. Uhh, G is 2.4 GHz only and is 5GHz only. Only N can be either. Interesting. I just checked the rate on Tomato's homepage, and the 5GHz rate is only 52Mbps. Maybe it is my router after all? edit: nevermind, I found out that I had a power cable draped over one of the antennas on the router... kid sinister fucked around with this message at 22:20 on Jan 17, 2016 |
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Jan 17, 2016 22:12
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Trip report on my Zyxel. (Powerline Ethernet) I'm 2 days into my new home (and I'm loving exhausted!!!) and I just set up my Zyxel. It shows green on the home plug button but if I do "anything" networky I get flashing orange (not red). I think that indicates 20-80Mbps. In practice my iMac gets about 30 down when using it. iMac on Wifi gets like 110. Hopefully the 20-80 range is sufficient for my Vonage VOIP and PS4.
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Jan 18, 2016 07:50
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How do I go about figuring out why my laptop (Windows 10) is showing as connected at 1.0Gbps, but my "Server" (Windows 7), that is plugged in to the very same switch, is showing as 100Mbps? I've tried a couple of different 5e cables between the server and the switch, but no difference. Server Mobo is a Gigabyte H97m-HD3.
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Jan 18, 2016 13:34
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edit: nevermind, solved.
SurgicalOntologist fucked around with this message at 16:02 on Jan 18, 2016 |
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Jan 18, 2016 15:54
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Have you tried manually setting the speed at 1gig? I've seen some bad auto negotiation but it's been a while.
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Jan 18, 2016 16:20
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Dogen posted:Have you tried manually setting the speed at 1gig? I've seen some bad auto negotiation but it's been a while. The Setting "Speed & Duplex" under the Adapter properties? I already tried changing it on the server and disabling and re-enabling the connection but it didn't make any difference. Maybe I need to set it on both and fully restart both machines?
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Jan 18, 2016 16:34
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I'm looking at some cheap used 10GBe cards for my iSCSI line to the NAS. I see most of them have heatsinks. Do they generate that much heat? I have two GPUs in the system. One small passively cooled (for the hypervisor), and a big one for a guest VM. In between these is a free PCIe slot and one at the bottom. I ask because when I cake it between the two cards, it may radiate heat onto the back of the big GPU and maybe obstruct the passively cooled one (plus radiate heat). The bottom slot is out of the question. Any card installed there would block the fans of the big GPU (then again, people stick two of these next to each other).
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Jan 18, 2016 16:51
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If the engineers who designed them put heat sinks on them it was for a reason other than just adding to the manufacturing costs. Most servers that need cards like this have super aggressive case fans and an internal design aimed at maximizing the airflow from said fans over the various parts that generate the most heat. This lets the internal heat sinks be a bit smaller than they otherwise would need to be. So I would say that yes, they are going to radiate some heat. How much heat is a different question. Do the specs say how much power they draw? That is usually a pretty good indicator of thermal output. Also, what the heck are you doing on a home network that needs 10GbE throughput?
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Jan 18, 2016 17:03
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MeKeV posted:The Setting "Speed & Duplex" under the Adapter properties? I already tried changing it on the server and disabling and re-enabling the connection but it didn't make any difference. What driver is installed for that motherboard NIC? Go to the Gigabyte site and download the latest.
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Jan 18, 2016 17:09
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Combat Pretzel posted:I'm looking at some cheap used 10GBe cards for my iSCSI line to the NAS. I see most of them have heatsinks. Do they generate that much heat? Yes, they do generate heat. Inadequate cooling can cause errors and depending on your configuration actual corruption of data. (Look up the LinusTechTips video where his NAS gives up the ghost due to poor ventilation of the raid cards.) Get some kind of fan to push air (horizontally) across the cards, if possible.
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Jan 18, 2016 17:30
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The Gunslinger posted:What driver is installed for that motherboard NIC? Go to the Gigabyte site and download the latest. I already had the latest from Gigabyte, so just tried the latest direct from Realtek too. Still 100mbps.
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Jan 18, 2016 18:08
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MeKeV posted:I already had the latest from Gigabyte, so just tried the latest direct from Realtek too. Still 100mbps. What are the drops? walljacks or direct? You said you tried different cables. Did you try swapping the cable on the laptop with the one from the file server? We need to rule some stuff out there. Grab some random Linux Live USB image and run it, see if you can get gigabit with that.
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Jan 18, 2016 18:43
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The Gunslinger posted:What are the drops? walljacks or direct? You said you tried different cables. Did you try swapping the cable on the laptop with the one from the file server? It's all direct. And a bit of a mishmash. Yes I tried other cables between laptop/switch/server, and switched them over too. There's the main router with two runs off, each to a gigabit switch. The cable to the second switch is buried under my skirting board, and I think there is a chance it could be 5, not 5e, its going to be a ball ache to check/replace. The cable to the laptop/server switch is definitely 5e. I've got a little openelec/android box on that 2nd switch. The OE box connects to a share on the 'server'. I can browse the openelec shares from my laptop, but the box doesn't look at the laptop shares at all. If the cable isn't 5e would that cause what I'm seeing? Or would this still cause the laptop to revert to 100mbps too? Or would that not stop the server from connecting to the network in general at 1gbps, just the connection to the OE box? I'll give a live boot a go next, if the above is unlikely to be the issue. If that is definitely going to be the cause, I'll go and have a little cry. e: I'll follow up with a diagram if my inability to use words has made things unclear. MeKeV fucked around with this message at 20:39 on Jan 18, 2016 |
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Jan 18, 2016 20:36
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Cat5 only does 10/100mbps so yeah that would do it. You need cat5e for gigabit.
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Jan 18, 2016 21:52
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And the laptop is showing as gigabit because its not sharing with the OE box? What about when I browse the OE from the laptop, the connection is still labeled as 1gb. Is the label not a true reflection of the actual connection?
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Jan 18, 2016 22:13
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Hey guys, I just got my Ubiquit UAP-AC-Lite installed (they finally dropped below $100). One question: is it possible to make wireless networks only 2.4 or 5ghz?
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Jan 19, 2016 01:39
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Is there a recommended Ethernet router at the moment? The OP is quite old. I'm not in NA if that is relevant.
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Jan 19, 2016 01:44
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Red_Fred posted:Is there a recommended Ethernet router at the moment? The OP is quite old. I'm not in NA if that is relevant. EdgeRouter X or EdgeRouter Lite, depending on your use cases.
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Jan 19, 2016 02:08
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Sorry forgot to mention I need WiFi too. Very small range to cover though (studio apartment).
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Jan 19, 2016 02:13
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Red_Fred posted:Sorry forgot to mention I need WiFi too. Very small range to cover though (studio apartment). Pair an EdgerouterX with a uap-ac-lite. You'll need to check the price wherever you are but in the US the combo is ~$160 and will give you better performance than any comparable consumer wireless router. Krailor fucked around with this message at 02:48 on Jan 19, 2016 |
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Jan 19, 2016 02:45
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Gothmog1065 posted:Hey guys, I just got my Ubiquit UAP-AC-Lite installed (they finally dropped below $100). One question: is it possible to make wireless networks only 2.4 or 5ghz? I configured my AP-Pro by creating two separate SSIDs called "SSID_NAME (2.4GHz)" and "SSID_NAME (5GHz)" under the same WLAN Group, then overriding the opposite SSID for each band. So "SSID_NAME (2.4GHz)" on the 2.4GHz band is enabled, but "SSID_NAME (5GHz)" is disabled.
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Jan 19, 2016 03:01
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Gothmog1065 posted:Hey guys, I just got my Ubiquit UAP-AC-Lite installed (they finally dropped below $100). One question: is it possible to make wireless networks only 2.4 or 5ghz? right here: 
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Jan 19, 2016 03:45
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Rukus posted:I configured my AP-Pro by creating two separate SSIDs called "SSID_NAME (2.4GHz)" and "SSID_NAME (5GHz)" under the same WLAN Group, then overriding the opposite SSID for each band. So "SSID_NAME (2.4GHz)" on the 2.4GHz band is enabled, but "SSID_NAME (5GHz)" is disabled. When you are editing the settings, is there an actual check box or something for the frequency? I'm not seeing anything in the settings for my AP that lets you choose. Maybe it's a feature that's not in the LITE? Here's a screenshot of my wifi settings. e: got the second post, looking now. e2: sweet, thanks guys. took me a minute to find the provisioning screen. Gothmog1065 fucked around with this message at 04:14 on Jan 19, 2016 |
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Jan 19, 2016 04:07
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Glad you got it working, here's mine for reference. 
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Jan 19, 2016 04:18
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I made some Ethernet cables by hand today after about 10 years since I last tried. Full speed connection on the first try. Feels good man.
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Jan 19, 2016 06:50
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Is it more or less safe to assume that if I've been reusing my random-rear end Ethernet cables for some time now that they may be holding back my speeds, (likely not 5e)? Is there a way to identify? Also I'm assuming the Zyxel Powerline Ethernet I bought came with cables that were up to the task of its max speed, yes?
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Jan 19, 2016 07:12
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MeKeV posted:And the laptop is showing as gigabit because its not sharing with the OE box? I unplugged everything from the network besides the router, laptop and server. Still 100mbps. I booted in to linux, still 100mbps I deleted the 'Manual' IP config in the router (ASUS) DHCP settings and bingo, a new connection in Ubuntu at 1gbps. Rebooted in to windows and I'm getting 550mbps Write and 500mbps Read From laptop to Server. YAY! I'm getting 66 Write and 70 Read to the OpenElec box now, so that cable is 5 by the looks of it, but I can live with that part for now.
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Jan 19, 2016 12:48
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I'm really unimpressed with ubuquiti's managment software.. load java on only one computer, use a web browser to manage. If computer breaks, lose password, etc.. HUGE problem.
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Jan 19, 2016 15:31
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Setting it up is a chore. They made setting it up as a service a little easier, but still not acceptable. That being said, you can easily make backups of your config and you can reset the password if you've forgotten it..? And are you really complaining that you use a web browser to manage something?
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Jan 19, 2016 15:34
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I got a pretty cheap router that has been working well for a few years, but now we're living with roommates and in an area with a lot of wireless networks. I'm looking to get a decent router with a max budget of ~120. What's a good simpleish go-to router?
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Jan 19, 2016 15:49
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Feenix posted:Is it more or less safe to assume that if I've been reusing my random-rear end Ethernet cables for some time now that they may be holding back my speeds, (likely not 5e)? I wouldn't say that's a safe assumption. If they're good cables and haven't been damaged then they could be fine, it's not like they wear out from use. Unless you are having problems with autonegotiation or connectivity they can probably be left alone. You could try an FTP transfer or iperf test to another device on the switch if you have one handy to be sure. There's not an easy way to know how good the included cables are but precut Cat5E cables aren't exactly expensive so I wouldn't worry about the cable quality unless you see something off. If you are having connectivity issues though the cable is always an easy first step to check as long as it's not run inside the walls or something. Massasoit posted:I got a pretty cheap router that has been working well for a few years, but now we're living with roommates and in an area with a lot of wireless networks. Assuming you want a wireless router and don't have a separate AP, TP-Link's Archer C7 comes well recommended and is ~$92 on Amazon right now. I am not aware if there's something more recent that's preferred but it checks all the boxes - a/b/g/n/ac, GigE, USB 3.0. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 16:19 on Jan 19, 2016 |
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Jan 19, 2016 16:14
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I just meant a lot of my cables may be a decade old. My devices are newer and may take advantage of faster speeds than cat5 can pass through... Who knows, though...
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Jan 19, 2016 16:25
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Feenix posted:I just meant a lot of my cables may be a decade old. My devices are newer and may take advantage of faster speeds than cat5 can pass through... Oh - yeah, that's fair. Gigabit can run over regular Cat5 but depending on wear, length and termination may drop down to 100M if it's not working right. Does your desktop (or whatever you're connecting over cables) autonegotiate to 1G though?
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Jan 19, 2016 16:31
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Thanks. That looks really well liked/reviewed. Should be a huge step up from my RT-12b1
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Jan 19, 2016 16:33
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Eletriarnation posted:Oh - yeah, that's fair. Gigabit can run over regular Cat5 but depending on wear, length and termination may drop down to 100M if it's not working right. Does your desktop (or whatever you're connecting over cables) autonegotiate to 1G though? I don't know. I just know I have a recent AirPort Extreme, a brand new iMac, Atv4, etc and am just using "Ethernet cords from the cable drawer..." May be worth investigating. 
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Jan 19, 2016 16:34
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Feenix posted:I don't know. I just know I have a recent AirPort Extreme, a brand new iMac, Atv4, etc and am just using "Ethernet cords from the cable drawer..." Plain old cat5 won't run as fast as cat5e with gigabit nics. The devices will negotiate to gigabit but the actual speed will be lower due to the cat5 cable not being able to handle it unless you are rather lucky and/or the cable is very short. In short it comes down to electrical engineering and physics. If you look at the cables closely they should be labeled as to what type they are. Cat6 is even better but for home use cat5e is fine. Personally I try to avoid plain cat5 if possible. Lifehacker has a good breakdown of the basic differences here. Edit: A note for MeKeV; 100 mbps only uses 4 pins in the ethernet cable and gigabit uses all of the pins. So its possible for one wire in cable to break resulting in a cable that works perfectly for 100 mbps but won't even negotiate to gigabit speeds. Antillie fucked around with this message at 17:13 on Jan 19, 2016 |
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Jan 19, 2016 17:07
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I have a pretty unique network situation and I'm hoping you problem solvers out there can help. It may involve cell phone tethering --- I'm not sure what I need. I've been trying to research this for a while now and I'm not really confident I can pull this off without a huge nudge in the right direction. Not entirely sure this is the right place to ask even, so if you have a better subforum for me to post in that's also appreciated. Goal: Access VPN from the duckblind
Inventory:
From what I've read AT&T isn't going to allow me to tether and use my grandfathered unlimited plan. They've apparently changed their tune over the years and will send notices to customers saying they'll yank their unlimited plans if they tether their phones, so I guess that's out of the question. I have heard rumors that certain unlocked Verizon iPhones could fit the bill for tethering, so I'm open to the idea of picking up an older iPhone and opening a data plan with another provider. If there are options outside of tethering a cell phone I'd love to hear about them.
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Jan 19, 2016 19:48
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Clarence Boddicker posted:...If there are options outside of tethering a cell phone I'd love to hear about them. Could just get an aircard to plug in to your computer. You'd need to pay for a data plan, but it might make more sense than getting a second cell phone and tethering. I occasionally use a Verizon aircard for work and it works great for VPNing into my work's LAN and working with files remotely.
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Jan 19, 2016 20:06
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