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If an O2 sensor wire is damaged, would it be worthwhile to attempt repairing the wire or do I need to replace the whole sensor? The sensor looks like this, if they ever look different from one another.
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Jan 27, 2016 20:11
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You can repair the wire as long as you use a crimp with the same metal. Otherwise you'll create a thermocouple junction and you'll get skewed readings and your O2 sensor will appear to not work. You could theoretically solder an O2 sensor in if all the wires are soldered in an equal way. In those cases the thermoelectric effects will cancel out. Same principal why you can space out a thermocouple junction with a dissimilar metal between the two leads and still get a valid reading.
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Jan 27, 2016 20:33
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Bajaha posted:You can repair the wire as long as you use a crimp with the same metal. Otherwise you'll create a thermocouple junction and you'll get skewed readings and your O2 sensor will appear to not work.
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Jan 27, 2016 20:44
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At that kind of mileage, unless the O2s are stupid-expensive, I'd plan on just replacing them anyway.
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Jan 27, 2016 21:31
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Looking at a 2004 Pontiac Vibe - base model 5 speed and obviously its used. Owner says that it was made for a Canadian market as its odometer is supposedly in kilometers (sitting at 170,000 ish kilometers if that is the case) and the only way I could see anything that could sort-of confirm what he said is that the outside temperature reading was in celsius if you flipped through the cluster info stuff - i.e. trip A, trip B, etc. I've honestly never seen an option on a cluster giving one the option to choose which units of measurement they can have, and I've only ever seen "american," ones at that, so is this guy probably right about the car's area of origin? p.s. I'm running on a tight schedule regarding getting this car (or not), so any sort of ideas/answers about this sort of thing is greatly appreciated. Dammit_Carl! fucked around with this message at 00:56 on Jan 28, 2016 |
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Jan 28, 2016 00:46
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That seems suspicious to me. A new gauge face in Km would eliminate a lot of miles via conversion. Maybe I am wrong though, but were it me I would move on
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Jan 28, 2016 00:58
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That sounds like the kind of thing a VIN lookup would tell you? It does sound fishy to me, too.
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Jan 28, 2016 01:03
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Easy do a 10 mile test drive get an app like run keeper that will track your distance and drive about 10 miles, see what happens to the odometer. Does it show an increase of ~10 miles or ~17 km
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Jan 28, 2016 01:17
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tater_salad posted:Easy do a 10 mile test drive get an app like run keeper that will track your distance and drive about 10 miles, see what happens to the odometer. Does it show an increase of ~10 miles or ~17 km I like the sound of this - simple. Looking online at a large owner's manual database, I see that there is a difference between some symbols used in the warning lights and gauges with the Canadian and U.S. models so I've asked for a picture of them. While not conclusive, it may help. Thanks for the assist, goons.
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Jan 28, 2016 01:30
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The Pontiac GTO of that era could actually be manually switched between km and miles because they didn't bother printing both scales, maybe they pulled the same poo poo on the Vibe?
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Jan 28, 2016 05:28
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Check whether it is equipped with a gun rack or a maple syrup dispenser.
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Jan 28, 2016 08:04
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I'm pretty sure I can switch the units in my car with a $300 computer program by changing the country setting (it also adjusts how the lights work to meet local laws). I doubt they make different ECUs or whatever for the cars, though you'd want the markings on the cluster to indicate what they are.
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Jan 28, 2016 12:08
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The US market cluster will show both MPH and KPH on two scales - inner will be KPH, outer will be MPH. MPH will max out between 120-140. If it only shows one scale, it'll probably be KPH, and reads past 200 KPH. You might have issues if you have inspections in your area.
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Jan 28, 2016 13:32
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I have a 2005, it's definitely obvious if its a MPH or KPH car. Besides the speedo, the temp gauge has degree numbering instead of L/H, and the fuel gauge has a O for empty and a filled in O for full.  IOwnCalculus posted:The Pontiac GTO of that era could actually be manually switched between km and miles because they didn't bother printing both scales, maybe they pulled the same poo poo on the Vibe? If it were actually a GM product maybe, but its just a rebadged Matrix. opengl fucked around with this message at 15:44 on Jan 28, 2016 |
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Jan 28, 2016 15:40
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Uthor posted:I'm pretty sure I can switch the units in my car with a $300 computer program by changing the country setting (it also adjusts how the lights work to meet local laws). I doubt they make different ECUs or whatever for the cars, though you'd want the markings on the cluster to indicate what they are. Does this mean the car can be programmed to not bitch that I want to leave my headlines "on" all the time?
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Jan 28, 2016 16:28
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So is the concern here that the owner of this car is trying an idiotic scam where he tricks someone into thinking it has way fewer miles than it actually does, or that he is just a moron?
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Jan 28, 2016 18:27
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My blue car is making a squeak what could it be? No but really, my question is: is there a Saab thread? I tried searching and nothing came up but I wanted to make sure.
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Jan 28, 2016 21:04
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Anderron Shi posted:My blue car is making a squeak what could it be? pfffft only buried four pages back http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3232133
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Jan 28, 2016 21:48
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opengl128 posted:I have a 2005, it's definitely obvious if its a MPH or KPH car. Besides the speedo, the temp gauge has degree numbering instead of L/H, and the fuel gauge has a O for empty and a filled in O for full. I have a KPH car with numbers on the temp but E/F on the fuel gauge soo?
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Jan 28, 2016 21:52
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spankmeister posted:I have a KPH car with numbers on the temp but E/F on the fuel gauge soo? A Vibe?
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Jan 28, 2016 23:22
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Safety Dance posted:pfffft only buried four pages back thanks!
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Jan 29, 2016 01:31
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2011 2012 subaru wrx, poo poo or okay? There are some in my area around 20k which may work for me.
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Jan 29, 2016 03:23
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5 year old car and only $5000 off from new? What?
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Jan 29, 2016 03:31
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Some vehicles hold their value well. I was offered about $500 less than purchase price on my '12 Wrangler last year. Should've taken it.
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Jan 29, 2016 03:34
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Christobevii3 posted:5 year old car and only $5000 off from new? What? I live in the northeast subaru are like frigging resale gold here. 16' wrxes are outside of my reach realistically. 20-22 is my top, asking becsuse Welp my rear end don't fit in an si coupe and a 4 for may be 6-8 months before I see one for sale.
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Jan 29, 2016 03:36
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Being somewhere that salts their roads this makes it even worse. Drive whatever you have for another year and buy new imo. If it was florida and it had 15k miles ok maybe but northeast and probably 50k miles no way.
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Jan 29, 2016 03:40
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Christobevii3 posted:Being somewhere that salts their roads this makes it even worse. Drive whatever you have for another year and buy new imo. If it was florida and it had 15k miles ok maybe but northeast and probably 50k miles no way. It'll cost me 2-3k to keep my car a year, either I sell it now/spring/summer or do timing belt, fluids and suspension. My choices are hope I fit in an si coupe, used boring civic, or 20k for a wrx.. What I see for a 2011/12 is ~35-40k tater_salad fucked around with this message at 03:53 on Jan 29, 2016 |
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Jan 29, 2016 03:49
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What car do you have? Timing belts don't usually die till 120k miles or 10 years. Suspension is meh, tires are cheap? Honestly weigh the options.... Also what car does the timing belt, struts, alignment, and fluids cost $2-3k? Audi rs4?
Christobevii3 fucked around with this message at 04:11 on Jan 29, 2016 |
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Jan 29, 2016 04:01
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SCA Enthusiast posted:So is the concern here that the owner of this car is trying an idiotic scam where he tricks someone into thinking it has way fewer miles than it actually does, or that he is just a moron? Talking with the guy, I don't think he is purposely leading people on but I do feel that he is wrong in believing that his 12 year old car only has 108,000 (approximate miles) / 179000 km on the odometer vs. whatever actual miles this thing has been driven. Eh, I'm giving this a pass as it doesn't feel right.
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Jan 29, 2016 04:22
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Christobevii3 posted:What car do you have? Timing belts don't usually die till 120k miles or 10 years. Suspension is meh, tires are cheap? Honestly weigh the options.... Also what car does the timing belt, struts, alignment, and fluids cost $2-3k? Audi rs4? 15 Year old honda, really low rear end miles but everything is oiginal I can probably not do fluids and suspension but ad leave that for the next guy. Short reality of it is that I don't want to wait a other year driving a car I'm not comfortable in. And I don't like buying new because I can usually save several grand by going to an ofg lease, although subaru holds its value well here. A new wrx base new is 27, the ones I saw in dont believe were base. Dammit_Carl! posted:I do feel that he is wrong in believing that his 12 year old car only has 108,000 (approximate miles) / 179000 km on the odometer vs. whatever actual miles this thing has been driven. So my 15 year old civic with 56000 miles on it wouldn't suit you then, actual grandma owned it, and I've had it for 7 years with 15 miles a day put on it for my commute. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 04:32 on Jan 29, 2016 |
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Jan 29, 2016 04:29
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Quote not edit.
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Jan 29, 2016 04:30
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tater, you've done the timing belt on it right? right?  Dammit_Carl! posted:Talking with the guy, I don't think he is purposely leading people on but I do feel that he is wrong in believing that his 12 year old car only has 108,000 (approximate miles) / 179000 km on the odometer vs. whatever actual miles this thing has been driven. There's a 15 year old F-150 parked out front with about 120k on it. Stepdad is the second owner, and has had it since 2003 or so. I think he got it with ~40k? I've owned cars that only saw about 5k a year while i owned them, due to living close to work. So yeah, very possible.
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Jan 29, 2016 07:31
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Possible if you honestly know the original owner(s), but not so believable if this guy bought it used off a lot with an admission of not knowing who or how many had it prior to him.
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Jan 29, 2016 13:08
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No I haven't done the timing belt I know it's due at this age it was on the list for this summer but I am financially able to upgrade this year since my income has nearly doubled it's time for an upgrade, I've always sacrificed my vehicle choice so my wife n kids had cars they could fit in. I just need to do some soul searching to decide if I really want an si / wrx, or if I should just go commuter and get a fit/nonsi/accord/camary. Then I go back to the si is in my budget, and is about 2k more than a civic which is about 2 months of savings being a bit frugal.. but then I go back to I commute 6 miles and aren't autocrossing in the next 4 years till my kids grow up a bit The 2012/11 wrxes are in my budget and I can talk them down or walk if needed, but I've been out of the car buying scene for awhile so wondered if this year of subaru has major issues or if they are tanks like I'd expect from a subaru.
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Jan 29, 2016 13:31
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Wrx insurance is insane in my state so look at that, timing belt cost, and spark plug change cost. They're great cars just expensive. A focus St is a bit more tame but cheaper to own too or something similar
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Jan 29, 2016 14:10
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Alright, final question and I think I'll spend some time figuring out I if I want speed or comfort... Is there any issue with buying a 3 year old prius? My current car thoughts Performance: si sedan, speed3, focus Comfort or economy:civic LX or se sedan, prius, camary. I looked at a fit and it's not very nice inside/lookibg
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Jan 29, 2016 15:46
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tater_salad posted:Alright, final question and I think I'll spend some time figuring out I if I want speed or comfort... You'd have a Prius?
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Jan 29, 2016 18:04
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tater_salad posted:Alright, final question and I think I'll spend some time figuring out I if I want speed or comfort... None of the above. Buy this: https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/5414285027.html
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Jan 29, 2016 18:07
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Is it wrong to use the crankshaft bolt and an air wrench to push the harmonic balancer back onto the crank? Ive been doing it this way for years but now im installing a completely remanufactured v8 that cost me real money, i dont want to damage the thrust bearings. I dont hammer on the thing to force it. A little lube on the crankshaft end and the balancer usually goes on pretty smooth while screwing the bolt in with the air gun. Just asking for my own peace of mind i guess.
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Jan 29, 2016 19:00
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Safety Dance posted:None of the above. Buy this: https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/5414285027.html Ozmiander posted:You'd have a Prius?
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Jan 29, 2016 21:58
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