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So I moved in today and I don't have a cable connection in my room. The wireless router will be about 30 feet away through two walls. I'll need to buy either a WiFi adapter or a power line adapter to use my desktop. My question is which I should try first. If the powerline works well, ideally it would be better than Wifi, correct? If not I can just return the powerline adapters m and get a WiFi adapter. Also running powerline to my room means I can have my Xbone wired as well.
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Jan 30, 2016 15:29
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Good Will Hrunting posted:So I moved in today and I don't have a cable connection in my room. The wireless router will be about 30 feet away through two walls. I'll need to buy either a WiFi adapter or a power line adapter to use my desktop. My question is which I should try first. If the powerline works well, ideally it would be better than Wifi, correct? If not I can just return the powerline adapters m and get a WiFi adapter. Also running powerline to my room means I can have my Xbone wired as well. I would start with a power line adapter and a dumb switch to connect both your PC and XB1.
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Jan 30, 2016 15:32
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Good Will Hrunting posted:So I moved in today and I don't have a cable connection in my room. The wireless router will be about 30 feet away through two walls. I'll need to buy either a WiFi adapter or a power line adapter to use my desktop. My question is which I should try first. If the powerline works well, ideally it would be better than Wifi, correct? If not I can just return the powerline adapters m and get a WiFi adapter. Also running powerline to my room means I can have my Xbone wired as well. If the source and destination outlets are on the same breaker, the powerline will probably work well. If they aren't and the house has newish/good wiring, it may work well. If it's an old house with original wiring and you're going to be going across breakers, feel free to try it but don't get your hopes up. My results with an "up to 500Mbps" pair of powerline adapters and the former three situations were 400Mbps, 30Mbps, and nothing respectively. If you get a good connection it will definitely be a lot better than any but the best wireless connections though. I have a router from work with an IP phone attached and it goes through the powerline adapter to my main home router, and I've never noticed any kind of issues with the VoIP quality so jitter and latency at least are consistently low. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 17:19 on Jan 30, 2016 |
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Jan 30, 2016 17:15
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I live under the burden of a 300GB Comcast cap and it hasn't been a problem for me until now, in December and now January we have gone over. That's 2 of the 3 free overage months before I start having to pay. I am trying to determine where the 300GB+ is coming from to hopefully remove/minimize bullshit data transfer. I am running a Cisco Linksys E2500 router that connects my desktop, wife's macbook, 1 PS3 for netflix/amazon, 1 Roku2 for netflix/amazon, and 2 cellphones when they are on the home wifi. Currently the router is running stock firmware, is something like DD-WRT my best option? It looks like DD-WRT only does data per device, I am hoping for something that could give me a breakdown by the type of traffic (Netflix, Steam downloads, Amazon, Dropbox, Windows Update) as well as per device. What type of setup could I use to achieve this?
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Jan 30, 2016 19:16
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I can just tell you by profiling this as the only person in my home and knowing everything that happens on my network. Steam and Netflix alone is enough to get overages. Steam only matters if you're downloading a new game. Netflix I use as my primary form of entertainment. If it gets used a lot on my off days or I just stay home for whatever reason, I'll bump up against the cap. If I download a major game or two from steam purchases, I basically give up a few days of streaming Netflix. If you have multiple people streaming from Netflix I can definitely see you going over. It's kind of obnoxious but that's why I have a whole lot of episodes and movies downloaded to my computer.
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Jan 30, 2016 19:35
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You're certainly not wrong about just those two aspects, and I did DL some smaller (non-Triple A releases) games on Steam the past two months so perhaps that pushed us over but having been a 2-person household with all these same devices for 2 years and to only just now start hitting the cap I am hoping to discover that Windows 7 has downloaded Windows 10 every night or something equally retarded.
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Jan 30, 2016 19:39
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Not part of your setup, but your phones should also give you info on data usage per app; check to see if there are any apps that look crazy high in usage just in case something's bugged.
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Jan 30, 2016 20:54
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Somewhat poetically, given Totally TWISTED's circumstances, Windows 10 will also give you a 30-day rolling data usage report broken out by connection method (Ethernet/Wi-Fi/Mobile/etc). It still misses some things, like data used by VMware guests using bridged networking, but it's not bad. I don't know if 8.1 did (I think it does) but I know 7 only did since the last time each connection was configured.
dont be mean to me fucked around with this message at 21:12 on Jan 30, 2016 |
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Jan 30, 2016 21:09
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I'm planning on setting up a smart closet soonish, and want to start running some CAT cable in my walls. Is there any real reason to buy 6a over 6?
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Jan 31, 2016 18:58
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Cat6A will do 10Gbps up to 100 meters, versus 33-55 meters for Cat6. Cat6A will be a bit thicker/bulkier to work with, so keep that in mind. Depending on the distance of the runs, the cost of labour to run the cabling, and how long you plan to utilize the cabling it would make more sense to just pay the difference and get Cat6A for peace of mind.
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Jan 31, 2016 23:26
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How hard would it be for a non-technical person to configure an EdgerouterX? I'm tossing up if I should get that and use an old combo WiFi/router as an AP or just get the Archer C5. I've read some things that say that EdgeOS is not easy and you're forced to use the CLI at times, although maybe it used to be like that? I really like the idea of how small, cheap and powerful the EdgerouterX is but don't want to not be able to use it properly.
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Feb 1, 2016 00:42
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Red_Fred posted:How hard would it be for a non-technical person to configure an EdgerouterX? I'm tossing up if I should get that and use an old combo WiFi/router as an AP or just get the Archer C5. There are a lot of general guides on how to do basic setup on the Ubiquiti forums. https://community.ubnt.com/t5/EdgeMAX/bd-p/EdgeMAX Newer code also has a setup wizard to get you going.
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Feb 1, 2016 00:45
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Rukus posted:Cat6A will do 10Gbps up to 100 meters, versus 33-55 meters for Cat6. Cat6A will be a bit thicker/bulkier to work with, so keep that in mind. Depending on the distance of the runs, the cost of labour to run the cabling, and how long you plan to utilize the cabling it would make more sense to just pay the difference and get Cat6A for peace of mind. Yeah, labor is gonna be me, so no "real" cost there. Maybe some beers for a friend if they help. I'm assuming get STP/FSTP, because on Amazon it seems to be the same price per 1000 ft for both. Another question, may be asking a bit much for this, but is there a good 8 - 16 port (16 preferred) switch I can use for my Cisco stuff (It'll just stay in place to keep doing switchy stuff), that also supports gigabit that isn't stupidly priced? e: it looks like Amazon has pair wrapped shielding on their stuff for the same price as the other stuff. Gothmog1065 fucked around with this message at 03:29 on Feb 1, 2016 |
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Feb 1, 2016 03:23
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Gothmog1065 posted:Yeah, labor is gonna be me, so no "real" cost there. Maybe some beers for a friend if they help. I'm assuming get STP/FSTP, because on Amazon it seems to be the same price per 1000 ft for both. Cisco stuff meaning it has to be Cisco for labs, or just a managed switch that plays nice with Cisco? If it's the latter, check out either Ubiquiti's Edgeswitch (16-port PoE), or Edgeswitch Lite (24-port no PoE).
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Feb 1, 2016 03:48
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Rukus posted:Cisco stuff meaning it has to be Cisco for labs, or just a managed switch that plays nice with Cisco? Cisco for labs. I've got a server so I could visualize it, but this would actually give me something that does have some use and value, and I get to play. Otherwise, I'd probably just put in an unmanaged switch and not worry about fancy features for the house.
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Feb 1, 2016 03:53
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Just ordered some Ubiquity gear: an EdgeRouterX and a Unifi AC Lite. Am I correct in assuming that I can use the PoE injector/PSU from the Unifi and go: Wall power -> Unifi PSU -> Unifi PoE Injector -> EdgeRouterX -> Unifi AC Lite on the power side?
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Feb 1, 2016 14:54
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bolind posted:Just ordered some Ubiquity gear: an EdgeRouterX and a Unifi AC Lite. Am I correct in assuming that I can use the PoE injector/PSU from the Unifi and go: If you're using the x then you don't need the power injector. Just use the wall wart you get with the x and then plug the wap into the poe port on the x.
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Feb 1, 2016 15:39
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Trip report so far: Getting about 20-30 mbps on the powerline, consistently (for the most part, one SpeedTest showed up to 45 but nothing slower than about 22 for the 10 or so tests I did). Sitting right next to the PLA on Wifi I was getting anywhere from 10 mbps to 30 mbps. Sitting right next to the router on my laptop I was getting 100. I have 15 days to make a decision before my powerline return is up.
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Feb 1, 2016 15:51
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Krailor posted:If you're using the x then you don't need the power injector. Just use the wall wart you get with the x and then plug the wap into the poe port on the x. Are you sure about that? As far as I knew, the ER-X is PoE-passthrough only.
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Feb 1, 2016 23:47
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Prescription Combs posted:There are a lot of general guides on how to do basic setup on the Ubiquiti forums. Alright I'm going to do it! What is the cheapest decent AP? I know everyone recommends the Ubiquiti ones but they are quite pricey (considering where I am the X + UniFi AP would be more than just buying the Archer C5). It's only for a small studio apartment that will have an Android phone and maybe some other phones when people come over, nothing else really.
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Feb 1, 2016 23:47
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Zyxel WAP3205 v2 is decent for light 2,4GHz use. I got two for $20 each from clearance sale. Probably anything will do, used ap's and routers with wifi too.
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Feb 1, 2016 23:50
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CrazyLittle posted:Are you sure about that? As far as I knew, the ER-X is PoE-passthrough only. I'm a bit confused, what would the point of PoE be if you couldn't power the AP just from plugging it into the router? If you aren't getting power from the ethernet port and need an injector anyway, why would it be labeled PoE? Sorry not trying to be dumb, just don't have any experience with PoE and was looking to upgrade to an ER-X+UniFi AP soon.
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Feb 2, 2016 01:09
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I'm currently powering one of my APs via the ER-X, so you shouldn't have any issues.
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Feb 2, 2016 02:17
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I got home and was getting great speeds. 70 near my router, 45 in my room (35 on PLA). Now I'm getting under 10 on both devices. Holy gently caress is Time Warner actually this inconsistent?
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Feb 2, 2016 03:46
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Good Will Hrunting posted:I got home and was getting great speeds. 70 near my router, 45 in my room (35 on PLA). Now I'm getting under 10 on both devices. Holy gently caress is Time Warner actually this inconsistent? Reboot all your crap from the modem to the router (if it's all separate). Without doing any actual support it could be (In order from most likely to least likely): Your poo poo (Don't get me started on how many chucklefucks would call in and swear it wasn't and once their routers/firewalls/whatthefuck ever were out of the way, it worked fine, or it was a single PC with others working just fine), the TWC equipment is bad, lovely overloaded node (5p to about midnight are really bad in some areas), there is an actual problem in the area.
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Feb 2, 2016 03:52
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Gothmog1065 posted:Reboot all your crap from the modem to the router (if it's all separate). It's just right now back to normal. 50mbps on both devices. It was like that for about 20 minutes. So bizarre. (I have a brand new 300mbps Arris and TP-Link C7.)
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Feb 2, 2016 03:54
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Krailor posted:If you're using the x then you don't need the power injector. Just use the wall wart you get with the x and then plug the wap into the poe port on the x. CrazyLittle posted:Are you sure about that? As far as I knew, the ER-X is PoE-passthrough only. GobiasIndustries posted:I'm a bit confused, what would the point of PoE be if you couldn't power the AP just from plugging it into the router? If you aren't getting power from the ethernet port and need an injector anyway, why would it be labeled PoE? Sorry not trying to be dumb, just don't have any experience with PoE and was looking to upgrade to an ER-X+UniFi AP soon. The ER-X by itself has a 12v wall-wart adapter. UAP and UAP-AC-Lite access points run on 24v passive PoE. If you want to run the ER-X with PoE then you can SKIP using the wall wart, and instead use the 24v injector that comes with single-pack UAP and UAP-AC-Lite boxes. Feeding the ER-X 12v in won't make it output 24V on the output port. It'll still only output 11-12v, which isn't enough to run a UAP. If you get your hands on a 24V / 2.5A power supply then you can use that, but that seems like such an edge case since most people would rather use the injector that came with the UAP. If you're using both an ER-X and a UAP of some kind, here's your wiring options:  From the ER-X quick start guide: 
CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 02:23 on Dec 22, 2016 |
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Feb 2, 2016 04:24
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CrazyLittle posted:If you want to run the ER-X with PoE then you can SKIP using the wall wart, and instead use the 24v injector that comes with single-pack UAP and UAP-AC-Lite boxes. I'm pretty sure this is wrong. The first picture you posted is a little misleading since it doesn't specify the power ratings of the PoE injectors. The PoE injector that comes with the UAPs is only 0.5A. You can run the ER-X and the UAP off of a single 2.5A injector, or you can run the ER-X off the 12V power supply and the UAP off the 0.5A injector, or you can run both off a 24V or 48V supply for the ER-X (which isn't the one that's included with the ER-X). Basically, if you don't want to buy anything other then the ER-X and the UAP, you're stuck plugging the router in and using the PoE injector included with the UAP. Edit: Well after reading through the quick start guide again, I'm not quite sure what to think. To me, it doesn't seem like the UAP PoE injector would have enough juice to power both. Might be worth checking out the Ubiquiti forums. smax fucked around with this message at 13:46 on Feb 2, 2016 |
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Feb 2, 2016 13:29
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The EdgeRouterX PSU is a 12V/0.5A (so 6W) and the Unifi AC LITE's PSU is 24V/0.5A (so 12W), but the AC LITE's peak power consumption is stated to be 6.5W, so the numbers sorta add up. I'll report back with my findings once the laze basterds deliver my gear.
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Feb 2, 2016 13:50
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I am using an EdgeX Lite with the AP. The PoE will work fine until you exceed 5-6 clients. After that the power draw will exceed what the PoE of the edgex can put out off the included AC adapter. Use the injector for the AP unless you have a minimal number of wireless devices. I was plagued by my WAP randomly rebooting until I figured this out. RE: Cable chat. Dont forget that if you're on a coax run you're sharing bandwidth with p.much everyone on your street, so if you're in an oversubscribed area you're gonna lose speed at primetime. Yes its that inconsistent. Digital_Jesus fucked around with this message at 20:14 on Feb 2, 2016 |
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Feb 2, 2016 20:05
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Yeah primetime is bad on my street with comcast (rural area but everyone has comcast since the alternative is windstream dsl at maybe 2 mbps). Of course we also have two downstream channels that throw a lot of correctable and uncorrectable errors. Having an older modem (sb6120) that could only use 4 bonding channels meant that if I got stuck with one of the bad channels I was screwed until 11pm or until I rebooted the modem several times. I picked up a newer modem and with 16 bonding channels it's not as bad during primetime anymore. Still sometimes is bad but the difference is 2 to 3 mbps on the old modem to 8 mbps on the new one when things are really bad.
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Feb 2, 2016 20:50
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I've seen some references that Cox Communications plans to rollout Gigablast via coax to their entire base by the end of 2016, but I can't find the uncited source articles are referring to. Does anyone have a primary source for this, or can anyone point to a rollout schedule, particularly for Connecticut?
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Feb 2, 2016 23:48
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Digital_Jesus posted:I am using an EdgeX Lite with the AP. The PoE will work fine until you exceed 5-6 clients. After that the power draw will exceed what the PoE of the edgex can put out off the included AC adapter. Use the injector for the AP unless you have a minimal number of wireless devices. :whattheheck:? Thanks for the heads up, that would've had me chasing gremlins and my own sanity for weeks. It it possible with a beefy enough PSU for the EdgerouterX though?
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Feb 3, 2016 06:43
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bolind posted::whattheheck:? Thanks for the heads up, that would've had me chasing gremlins and my own sanity for weeks.
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Feb 3, 2016 14:10
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There's some more information here, on the official UBNT forums.
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Feb 3, 2016 14:56
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No idea if this is the right thread but I need advice on a VDSL modem/router. That's the only thing compatible with my ISP and I'm not really doing any kind of streaming and max amount of home networking would be one old woman connecting to browse facebook with so no need for anything fancy. Problem is I search for VDSL on Amazon and everything but the top one specifically says "does not support VDSL" when you go to the actual page, so finding one is a nightmare.
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Feb 4, 2016 03:29
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Wrong thread!
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Feb 4, 2016 04:03
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Botnit posted:No idea if this is the right thread but I need advice on a VDSL modem/router. That's the only thing compatible with my ISP and I'm not really doing any kind of streaming and max amount of home networking would be one old woman connecting to browse facebook with so no need for anything fancy. Problem is I search for VDSL on Amazon and everything but the top one specifically says "does not support VDSL" when you go to the actual page, so finding one is a nightmare. Does your ISP have a list of specific models that are compatible with your service?
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Feb 4, 2016 06:25
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Armacham posted:Does your ISP have a list of specific models that are compatible with your service? No, or I would've just searched those. The only thing they and Netgear (what I just bought to find out wasn't compatible) told me was that I needed a VDSL modem/router, DSL and ADSL aren't compatible. If I search VDSL modem/router on Amazon the first one is $230, the second one says "Not compatible with VDSL service".
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Feb 4, 2016 08:12
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Botnit posted:No idea if this is the right thread but I need advice on a VDSL modem/router. That's the only thing compatible with my ISP and I'm not really doing any kind of streaming and max amount of home networking would be one old woman connecting to browse facebook with so no need for anything fancy. Problem is I search for VDSL on Amazon and everything but the top one specifically says "does not support VDSL" when you go to the actual page, so finding one is a nightmare. What ISP? Some (like AT&T) have built their network such that only their equipment will even work.
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Feb 4, 2016 08:17
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