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FlyingCheese posted:What's the best rechargeable bluetooth mouse? My new laptop only has 2 regular USB ports and I'd rather one of them wasn't taken up by a wired mouse or a stupid little transmitter when I have bluetooth already in the laptop. And I certainly don't want to have to worry about replacing AA batteries. http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Bluetooth-Mobile-Mouse-PN7-00001/dp/B015HWLB2G
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Feb 12, 2016 13:18
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I've got a Corsair M65 that I've had for maybe 2 years. I've had to RMA it once for button clicking issues, and now it's doing this super annoying thing with the scroll wheel where it intermittently registers 4x downward scroll for each downward scroll I do (it's the clicky kind of wheel, not the free wheel). Incredibly frustrating to read anything online. Also the middle button is wonky in that I have to put a lot of pressure on it to get it to register. Is an easy way to fix this? I'm thinking of just replacing it if not. I see a lot of complaints about Logitech in this thread which kind of surprised me. I'm looking for a wired gaming mouse - is there a standard recommendation?
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Feb 12, 2016 14:58
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Josh Lyman posted:http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Master-Wireless-Mouse-910-004337/dp/B00TZR3WRM Nevermind, the first one does both bluetooth and receiver. Nice. Thanks. FlyingCheese fucked around with this message at 11:17 on Feb 14, 2016 |
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Feb 14, 2016 11:09
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The Logitech MX Anywhere 2 is another good option (that does Bluetooth as well as Receiver) http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Anyw...s=mx+anywhere+2
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Feb 14, 2016 20:14
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Fame Douglas posted:The Logitech MX Anywhere 2 is another good option (that does Bluetooth as well as Receiver) http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Anyw...s=mx+anywhere+2 Yeah I found that last night, I think I'm going to go with that one since it'll mainly be portable and I don't really like touchpads.
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Feb 14, 2016 20:22
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So I bought a logitech combo that came with a light rechargeable keyboard and a wireless mouse a couple years ago. About six months ago the keyboard crapped out and I had a paper to write that night I went out and bought a cheap k120 logitech $10 keyboard. Now the mouse that came with it is double left clicking more and more often and I don't know how to fix it. So since this seems to be the thread for it, what mouse and possibly keyboard should I get. This for a desktop and I would like it to be sturdy, other than that I do some light gaming, mostly with the gamepad though, and other than that I have no preferences. I just want something that will last.
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Feb 15, 2016 00:38
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I switch mousing hands at work to keep my right shoulder from acting up. Are there any left handed mice that will switch the left click and right click buttons in hardware so I don't have to change them in the control panel everytime I switch mice? I plan on having two mice hooked up to my computer.
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Feb 17, 2016 20:37
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Coredump posted:I switch mousing hands at work to keep my right shoulder from acting up. Are there any left handed mice that will switch the left click and right click buttons in hardware so I don't have to change them in the control panel everytime I switch mice? I plan on having two mice hooked up to my computer. A lot of the Logitech mice (G502 for example) have a dedicated profile switch button which would effectively do the same thing. The G502 (and I'm sure a lot of the others) stores its profiles in its own memory too, so once you've set them up, you don't even need the control panel installed and you can move the mouse between computers without having to configure them again.
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Feb 17, 2016 20:59
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I didn't think Logitech made a g502 in left handed did they?
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Feb 17, 2016 21:11
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I use a J5Create Wormhole to share a keyboard and mouse between computers. Unfortunately, the mouse profile only lives on the computer to which its directly attached, and the keyboard's special buttons are likewise ignored. The Wormhole effectively acts as it's own USB keyboard and mouse, so things like extra buttons or remapped buttons don't carry over. This is annoying because I typically remap some buttons for Alt-Tab (or Win-Tab in Windows 10), and so forth. Does anyone know of any way to effectively connect a nice mouse to multiple computers such that each computer sees the nice mouse rather than a generic USB device?
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Feb 17, 2016 21:31
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Ynglaur posted:I use a J5Create Wormhole to share a keyboard and mouse between computers. Unfortunately, the mouse profile only lives on the computer to which its directly attached, and the keyboard's special buttons are likewise ignored. The Wormhole effectively acts as it's own USB keyboard and mouse, so things like extra buttons or remapped buttons don't carry over. This is annoying because I typically remap some buttons for Alt-Tab (or Win-Tab in Windows 10), and so forth. Save the mouse profile onboard the mouse itself. Most of the mice posted in this thread will let you do that.
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Feb 17, 2016 21:53
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Has anyone tried the Steelseries Sensei or Sensei Raw? I've been looking at the more recent Logitech gaming mice since the MX-518 but it seems like aesthetically they've decided that maximum  is the way to go which turns me off them a little.
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Feb 17, 2016 22:05
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Coredump posted:I didn't think Logitech made a g502 in left handed did they? Sorry man, total reading comprehension fail.
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Feb 17, 2016 22:29
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NihilCredo posted:Save the mouse profile onboard the mouse itself. Most of the mice posted in this thread will let you do that. The problem is that the J5Create Wormhole is the mouse as far as the second computer is concerned. The laptop to which the mouse is directly connected sees it, but the moment I move the pointer to the second laptop the Wormhole takes over and pretends its the mouse. What I really need is USB passthrough triggered on screen edge.
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Feb 17, 2016 22:30
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Have you tried Synergy?
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Feb 17, 2016 23:01
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Koramei posted:Has anyone tried the Steelseries Sensei or Sensei Raw? Sensei is nice shape and works alright, but I hate the sensor (I'm also a picky bitch). I vastly prefer the Zowie FK1 in this case.
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Feb 17, 2016 23:07
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Clanpot Shake posted:Have you tried Synergy? Blocked via Firewall GPO on one of the laptops.
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Feb 18, 2016 01:07
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Koramei posted:Has anyone tried the Steelseries Sensei or Sensei Raw? I've used the sensei raw [Frost Blue] I liked the color of it and the shape, but after 1 year the scroll wheel went off and double or triple scrolled randomly. The warranty was still valid so I used it got a steel series sensei back, sold it and bought the logitech G302. Which honestly I feel I should have bought first since I love small ambidextrous shaped mice.
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Feb 18, 2016 01:55
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Koramei posted:Has anyone tried the Steelseries Sensei or Sensei Raw? Mine started getting weird double/triple clicks but that was after like three years of pretty heavy use.The main problem I had was it getting gunky and the coating falling off pretty quickly, so if I got another one I'd go for the matte black version you can get.
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Feb 18, 2016 02:22
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Koramei posted:Has anyone tried the Steelseries Sensei or Sensei Raw? I have the Sensei and it's okay. The mouse itself was pretty great for about a year before I started having issues with it. Double clicks from a single click, the wheel switch/sensor is messed up. I can't scroll up or down because any attempt in either direction results in a "click" in the opposite direction. I don't know if I just have bad luck and got a bad one or wore it out(barely was used). It's been like this for over 3 years. I did some googling awhile back and found other people who had issues with the switch's/wheel. For the money, I think you can do better. Maybe it just wasn't the mouse for me, it is kind of uncomfortable too. I thought I was more of a palm mouse user but I probably should have got something more claw oriented. How I hold the mouse kinda depends on what I am doing but I still don't like how it fits in my hand. I'm still using it but need to get something new. It makes it impossible to do a lot of things with these issues. I use google sketch up quite a bit and am constantly struggling with it to do what I want.
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Feb 18, 2016 03:43
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Huh well 4 negative responses in a row is pretty telling, thanks guys.
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Feb 18, 2016 14:41
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I just got a replacement G602 under warranty and, with the original four month old mouse sitting here, I figure there's no harm in trying to diagnose and fix it. I have soldering gear and electronics experience, so I'm not inordinately concerned about trying to replace the switch if I need to, but I've still got a couple of questions. First, is there a particular brand and/or model of switch I should be hunting for as a replacement, if it comes to that? Second, Logitech will ship replacement feet out for a few bucks, but are there aftermarket brands I should consider instead? I'm not a pro-gamer or anything, but I figure if you're going to do something, you'd might as well do it well. Or extravagantly.
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Feb 18, 2016 17:27
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Bieeardo posted:I just got a replacement G602 under warranty and, with the original four month old mouse sitting here, I figure there's no harm in trying to diagnose and fix it. I have soldering gear and electronics experience, so I'm not inordinately concerned about trying to replace the switch if I need to, but I've still got a couple of questions. I would not personally worry about 3rd party mouse feet unless 1st party were unavailable or like 5x more expensive than decentish looking stuff on like ebay or amazon. Logitech put a lot of effort into that kind of thing so they'd be hard to beat. Your best bet is to replace like for like in terms of the microswitch, you can get get very cheap but similar form factor microswitches that are only rated to 10s of thousands of clicks, which you may hit within your mouse's life time, so do look for appropriately rated switches. Other broken or otherwise defunct mice are usually decent sources for replacement switches, or you can buy them online usually in 1s and 2s if needed. Many switch makers, eg Omron, make a large range of switches in a variety of sizes, ratings, and in the case of tactile switches, activation forces. Many tactile microswitches are colour coded for their force requirement, but these are usually used for eg side buttons and the like. None of the big names in switch making are really any better than anyone else and certainly none are immune to double click related problems, so, probably just stick with the type and brand inside of the mouse. (spoiler this is probably omron) You may actually be able to fix whatever is causing your existing microswitch from bouncing. It is unlikely to be mechanically exhausted due to over clicking as it's likely rated to millions of those, and is more likely to be experiencing some other kind of problem (such as making just enough of a poor contact due to eg dirt or other tarnish to cause issues, at least, based on the likely unscientific ramblings of the internet at large). But, here's what I would do: First of all, I would permanently but subtly mark the junk mouse that I have an identical copy of sitting next to it so I can always tell them apart. Then, I would find blurry uninformative pictures on the internet of the location of all the screws that are in the mouse; ala http://www.instructables.com/id/Repair-Logitech-G602-wheel-button/ - I would probe for these holes with a screw driver, then cut holes through the feet with a scalpel or exacto knife or whatever it is you like to use, and then bevel the edges (also with my bladed tool of choice) to prevent it from catching when I moved it. This does somewhat compromise your mouse feet, but, often so does taking them off as they love to separate into two pieces if you don't get perfectly under them, and you run that risk pretty much every time you have to get in in the future. I did this with a G700 that I've been inside of 20+ times. If I didn't want to do that, I guess I'd run the risk with taking off the feet. They do have a lot more surface area nowerdays, so I imagine they stick back on a lot better than the small feet of older mice, which would sometimes come off just through normal use after a while. The alternative is buy replacement feet and just assume it will go wrong (which might be worth doing anyway as first time doing something like this means pretty good destruction odds). Once you're inside though, look at the plastic underside of the physical mouse button and check for obvious wear where it meets the microswitch. If there's like a massive notch in it then that is a more likely issue than something with the microswitch. If there's like a light mark but it appears flat then it's probably fine. You can also have a look around and see if the underside of microswitch is even accessible (for example, it isn't in a G700, but the images above suggest it is for the 602), but I would first leave it in situ and look at contact cleaning sprays or similar which might revitalise the copper contacts inside it. Well, actually what I would do is use some kind of tool to pick open the plastic clasps of the microswitch and look at what the deal is inside of it (being weary of the small unattached piece of plastic that forms the actual button that you should be very careful to keep track of) - you can see some pictures of what that might look like here*. Then I'd probably gently scrape the contacts with a metal tool of some kind and hope I don't ping the microswitch's internals off into the distance, or, I'd try and wedge a massive oversize piece of cloth in like those guys I just linked with some solvent based cleaner on it. Then stick the switch back together (I tend to do this upside down for reasons that will become apparent if you take the top off) and with the top still off, power it up and give it a go to see if it mostly works. If successful, then pop the top back on and go a-mousing. If the metal spring contact does come out of the microswitch, you can put it back together but it's super fiddly, look at reference photos to check you're doing it right. It is popular to take it out and 'adjust it' so that it provides a more solid 'click', but the force needed is very similar to the force needed to bend it to be all hosed up and destroy it, so don't do that unless you actually have a problem with mushy clicks. Best of luck I guess, and sorry if this is a bit rambley.
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Feb 18, 2016 22:58
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That's quite helpful actually, thank you. I wouldn't have thought to probe around for and carve out the screw holes instead of peeling the feet off, and they're definitely Omron switches inside. I don't see any obvious signs of wear on the switch or the post, but I can't rule out that the little contact plate at the tip of the post hasn't slipped out of alignment. I may see if a layer or two of electrical tape to lengthen the post a touch, see if that helps to give a better contact with the switch. It looks like the PCB is only held on with two screws, so desoldering probably won't be a huge deal if it came down to it. It also seems to be holding the plastic reflector bit of the optical sensor in place. From declawing a :cuecat, I know those things can be a pain in the rear end if they come loose. Actually getting the switch open may be a challenge. The LMB switch is flush with the DPI adjustment switches on the left side, but it looks like there's enough room to get at the catches from the right, on the front, and the left, at the back. Thanks again for the help. I think I'll be taking my time with this.
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Feb 19, 2016 00:24
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Out of the popular wireless Logitech offerings which come with a receiver? I just want a mouse that isn't awful while I try out wireless. I'd rather not have DPI adjustments on the mouse, unless someone can say why this might be a good thing. I just want a mouse to replace my old Microsoft Intellimouse now that its right button is getting all wonky. ETA: Considering the G602 (doesn't seem like it comes with a receiver, or I'm dumb), and the MX Master and MX Performance. Melraidin fucked around with this message at 06:01 on Feb 21, 2016 |
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Feb 21, 2016 05:28
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The G602 definitely comes with the receiver, but note it's a special one that won't work with other Logitech devices. It does have DPI buttons but if you install LGS you can bind them to something else (or nothing at all)
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Feb 21, 2016 09:06
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Are there any Razer Orochi alternatives? I don't wanna buy Razer.
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Feb 21, 2016 16:38
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602 is a good mouse, if your hand likes the shape. It's not particularly light, and I don't like all the thumb buttons (2 are fine, tyvm) but it's solid in all respects.
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Feb 21, 2016 18:10
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The 602 is a wonderful mouse and I'm coming from a g700. It'll be a lot to get used to coming from an intellimouse. Forget you even have dpi button requirements, that poo poo is just keybindings you can change on any mouse.
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Feb 21, 2016 18:50
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You can see some of the 518 shape in the 602, though the scroll wheel has its critics. Personally, I'm keeping an eye on Finalmouse's 2016 offerings.
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Feb 22, 2016 16:38
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When LGS scans for games, it apparently only looks in typical locations, and doesn't do thinks like look in the registry. At least, it fails to find most of the games I have installed. Is there some way to force it to look in particular directories (i.e. "C:\Games\")? Failing that, is there some site where I can download game profiles?
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Feb 24, 2016 03:01
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Does the Razer DeathAdder require Razer's Synapse software to be installed to work? Anyone know? Last time I ran across Synapse it wanted me to set up an account and have internet connection, which is too loving much for getting peripherals to work.
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Feb 24, 2016 16:22
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Coredump posted:Does the Razer DeathAdder require Razer's Synapse software to be installed to work? Anyone know? Last time I ran across Synapse it wanted me to set up an account and have internet connection, which is too loving much for getting peripherals to work. I ran mine without it, for the same reason, and it worked fine.
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Feb 24, 2016 19:06
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Speaking of the G602, mine has recently started to double click roughly 80% of the time on single clicks...which is annoying to say the least. I like the ability to easily raise or lower the sensitivity, though that's not a game breaker. The biggest thing are the macro keys. They're extraodordinarily useful both in games and for my work, so it's hard for me to imagine getting a mouse that doesn't have them. And it being wireless is a must. My baby has enough wires to pull on as it is. I'm fine with just getting another G602 but ya know, new things are cool too. edit: Decided to go with the G602 again, but I'm still curious what other people think. Not a ton of mice with significant macro keys. Gzuz-Kriced fucked around with this message at 03:21 on Feb 25, 2016 |
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Feb 25, 2016 00:25
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My mouse died! I'd like to get something affordable, wired and good for gaming. Any suggestions?
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Feb 28, 2016 03:20
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Buy a G502, Naos 7000, or Castor when they are on sale. Naos 7000 is on Massdrop for 47$ currently. I've seen it cheaper but that's a decent price. Castor shows up there periodically too.
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Feb 28, 2016 05:23
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s/he probably doesn't want to go through massdrop since they are, i guess, completely mouseless at the moment. but those are good recs!
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Feb 29, 2016 20:53
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The NAOS 7000 doesn't have sensor acceleration does it? I need a work mouse and I'm trying to decide If I was to get a zowie for work or a new naos for home and take my g502 to work. I had a 3200 I loved but didn't replace when it broke due to negative sensor accel which was weird and annoying.
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Mar 1, 2016 04:04
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henne posted:The NAOS 7000 doesn't have sensor acceleration does it? I need a work mouse and I'm trying to decide If I was to get a zowie for work or a new naos for home and take my g502 to work. I had a 3200 I loved but didn't replace when it broke due to negative sensor accel which was weird and annoying. Nope, it's optical.
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Mar 1, 2016 17:39
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I don't think optical/not-optical has any bearing on whether there's sensor acceleration.
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Mar 1, 2016 17:47
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