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um excuse me posted:The RE-71Rs are for autoX, I have been hearing by various people that it is the fastest UTQG 200 tire around. I'm actually not firm on the Michelins. I just hear it is a good all around summer tire. I didn't even think of Costco. I hit the limit of the operator well before the limit of my tires. Means I get to save money? 
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Feb 18, 2016 07:21
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VERTiG0 posted:My winter beater/summer rainy day car is a 2005 Mazda3 sport GT hatch that has 175,000km on it. It's got the awful loving dreaded Mazda rust on the rear fenders, and I believe also now inside the upper wheel wells where the struts mount to the unibody. Steel reinforcement might help but it's going to be hard to get that patch aligned and reinforced properly for a strut to mount to it. Unfortunately you own one of the worst cars for epic rust made in the 2000's, so it might be a repair too costly to be worth it. I'd actually recommend a body shop to get a repair quote. I don't mean a brand name insurance body shop either. Seek out some shop run by a grey beard body wizard who is regularly fabricating new rockers for lovely salt belt domestic cars.
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Feb 18, 2016 07:55
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Kumho Les went for $80 a tire at crazy tire a couple months back. Utg 280, but no Michelin PS but decent enough. They have specials every now and then and have free shipping. Might call about a package deal.
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Feb 18, 2016 16:22
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zundfolge posted:Looks like your serpentine belt broke. It's not a big deal, assuming that it just snapped due to age/wear and wasn't caused by a seized accessory or pulley. It was probably a coincidence that it happened when you engaged the diff lock. You can't drive it without the belt, though, so unless you're equipped to replace it yourself having it towed to your mechanic is the right move. Turned out to be the compressor's fault that the serpentine belt broke. Got her back from the mechanic. Running like new now.
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Feb 18, 2016 16:58
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I am a loving dumbass. 2014 Ram 1500 Tradesman, 4x4, hemi, 5sp auto, quad cab, 6' bed. Yes that is long. I was annoyed and hangry and my usual place for inspections closed so I was running around yesterday and found an inspection place. There's a lot of snow and ice here and as I pulled out from the gas pump to go around and get in the inspection line, I bumped my RR wheel up against one of those U-shaped pole things that protects the pump:  I thought I was going over a small pile of ice so I just baaaarely bumped the gas with my foot....but that was enough power to bend the rim away from the tire until I heard FSSSSSSSSHHHHHHHHHHH!!. I thought "how the gently caress did I hit the pump I wasn't near the loving thing..." and jumped out. Station manager ran out, thinking I hit the pump. We rounded the truck together and saw it was just the tire. Hilarious. Anyway, he nicely loaned me a floor jack so I put the spare on, and got the goddamn loving inspection. The wheel is steel, but now it looks like this:  So gently caress, I guess I need a wheel. My wife does not like these wheels. I don't especially but I don't give a poo poo because it's a truck not a lifestyle. Anyway, I don't know what to buy. Best deal I can find at tirerack is this:  Not loving that idea, plus the mounting and balancing takes me over $800. Been calling local used tire shops and salvage yards but haven't found anything yet. I called the dealer for kicks and they quoted $300 if they could find one. I can't seem to find the stock rims online outside of ebay. Anything I should be checking that I'm not? Thanks! e: also what do I need to know to make sure I don't gently caress up w/r/t getting the right TPMS sensors? e2: autorimshop.com seems to have what I'd expect to see here, but I have to put in 2011 for the year to see these rims. 2014 just gets me fancy mags. http://www.autorimshop.com/amfinder/?find=2011-dodge-ram-1500-323789 Those three options are what I saw at the dealer. 17" - grey steel or black -or- 20" alloy. The price isn't that bad, I guess I have to see exactly what part number my rims are. Do I buy the TPMS for the 2014 model truck or 2011 model tire...? pr0k fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Feb 18, 2016 |
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Feb 18, 2016 19:41
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punk rebel ecks posted:Make: Ford I had this exact car and similar problem with a standard where going to a stop would cause it to die, especially in cold when thr motor wasn't warmed up. Chances are the hose from your idle air control valve has finally disintegrated, when mine did this I pulled it off and went to the local store and purchased the right sized ruber hose since ford wanted quite a bit more for their OEM part, had the car for 3 years after with no issue. You can duct tape it for now but it's a temp fix the engine heat will destroy the glue in a week or so. Dig around online for how to replace the idle air hose on a 2000 se. It will be a tube coming from behind the throttle body near the firewall..it's a pain in the rear end to get to, took me about 30 min to replace due to having to contort my hand and arms.
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Feb 18, 2016 19:56
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puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 03:43 on Jan 4, 2020 |
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Feb 18, 2016 20:06
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tater_salad posted:I had this exact car and similar problem with a standard where going to a stop would cause it to die, especially in cold when thr motor wasn't warmed up. So is there an easy way to test this without taking it out? Like shaking the hose while the car is running?
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Feb 18, 2016 20:07
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Extra posted:http://car-part.com/ search 2014 Dodge Truck 1500 (1994 and up) Wheel. That looks like the 17x7. Ahhhhhh, thank you.
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Feb 18, 2016 20:11
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puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 03:43 on Jan 4, 2020 |
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Feb 18, 2016 20:15
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Will do. It actually JUST occurred to me to reuse it. Brain just not working. (Spare doesn't have one installed so the system gripes at me.)
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Feb 18, 2016 20:17
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punk rebel ecks posted:So is there an easy way to test this without taking it out? Like shaking the hose while the car is running? You can find it it and try and feel for a hole, / flattened spot on the hose. The most likely place it'll be on the bottom curve where it bends Into the throttle body, or it may also rub on the intake in spots so check there too.
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Feb 18, 2016 21:24
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Extra posted:http://car-part.com/ search 2014 Dodge Truck 1500 (1994 and up) Wheel. That looks like the 17x7. It's a steel wheel. Can't pr0k just hit it with a hammer until it's round again?
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Feb 18, 2016 21:47
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One of the guys at the gas station came out with a five pound sledge and whacked it a few times and said "wow, that's a lot stronger than I thought" and gave up.
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Feb 18, 2016 22:13
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UPDATE: Turns out the shop couldn't find anything wrong with it (again). Pissed me off but whatever. I drove it back home for thirty minutes. The good news is that it didn't die once when it was stopped at a light and it was stopped a lot considering it was practically rush hour. The bad is that the car jerked 4 or 5 times during the drive. One thing I noticed is that the car is more likely to jerk when it is warmer outside than when it is colder. tater_salad posted:You can find it it and try and feel for a hole, / flattened spot on the hose. The most likely place it'll be on the bottom curve where it bends Into the throttle body, or it may also rub on the intake in spots so check there too. I see. I'll try this tomorrow.
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Feb 18, 2016 22:42
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pr0k posted:One of the guys at the gas station came out with a five pound sledge and whacked it a few times and said "wow, that's a lot stronger than I thought" and gave up. I've seen someone use a widow maker jack to straighten out a dented rim, quite impressive actually, you could only tell afterwards by the flaked paint.
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Feb 18, 2016 23:02
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pr0k posted:One of the guys at the gas station came out with a five pound sledge and whacked it a few times and said "wow, that's a lot stronger than I thought" and gave up. Yeah, the steel might need some heat to bend back into shape. If you can find a used replacement, that'll be cheaper than getting yours fixed.
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Feb 19, 2016 02:25
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I have a bernzamatic and a five pound sledge. .. Might try it for fun but will buy a new rim anyway. Wife and kids' safety. I don't know poo poo about wheels.Cakefool posted:I've seen someone use a widow maker jack to straighten out a dented rim, quite impressive actually, you could only tell afterwards by the flaked paint. That's kind of cool, but I would worry about face removal trying a trick like that with a giant steel rim. VVV thanks! pr0k fucked around with this message at 17:24 on Feb 19, 2016 |
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Feb 19, 2016 06:16
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crr-3978855/overview/ This might be a somewhat cheaper option for the same style wheel. You still have to get them mounted and I would check the center bore size and backspacing, but it should mostly be correct outside of tire width. The thinest rim they had in that bolt pattern was 8".
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Feb 19, 2016 07:45
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Decided to go cheap. Getting a replacement factory rim from a nearbyish junkyard. $100 UPSed to my door.
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Feb 19, 2016 21:08
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This is the most sensible option if you're happy with the stock wheels.
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Feb 19, 2016 21:23
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um excuse me posted:The RE-71Rs are for autoX, I have been hearing by various people that it is the fastest UTQG 200 tire around. I'm actually not firm on the Michelins. I just hear it is a good all around summer tire. I didn't even think of Costco. Follow up on this. Went to Costco today, I had them look up RE-71Rs just for giggles, and they carry them! It wasn't on their website, but they ensured me they had them. They are 158.99 per tire (dunno the set price and thats for 245/45/R17) and Costco's item number is 166872. um excuse me fucked around with this message at 23:59 on Feb 19, 2016 |
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Feb 19, 2016 23:29
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8ender posted:Steel reinforcement might help but it's going to be hard to get that patch aligned and reinforced properly for a strut to mount to it. Unfortunately you own one of the worst cars for epic rust made in the 2000's, so it might be a repair too costly to be worth it. I'd actually recommend a body shop to get a repair quote. I don't mean a brand name insurance body shop either. Seek out some shop run by a grey beard body wizard who is regularly fabricating new rockers for lovely salt belt domestic cars. Thank you. Found a guy oddly similar to what you've suggested, hah! He's gonna give it a go, and he's cheap. I'm gonna try it out for a few months, and if it eats struts, hello Abarth.
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Feb 20, 2016 03:36
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So I found a video of how to change the fuel filter on my Ford Focus. Do I have to follow every single step such as taking off the fuses and disconnecting the evaporative line? Do I have to worry about tons of gas falling out when I take the fuel filter off? EDIT - Like will all of my car's gas fall out?
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Feb 20, 2016 15:00
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punk rebel ecks posted:So I found a video of how to change the fuel filter on my Ford Focus. What year Focus? If its based on the first generation (anything up to 2011 in the US) you don't need to disconnect the evaporative line. Pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine until stops running/sputtering to depressurize the fuel system - otherwise you'll spray yourself with gas when the line comes off the filter. The filter is underneath the car just below the rear passenger seat. 10mm bolt holds the filter in, then push the quick disconnects on the fittings that slide onto the filter. One of the fittings has to make a 180 degree turn and can't be removed from the filter while in place but can be disconnected from the fuel line and removed with the filter and then transfered onto the new filter. And no, you won't lose (much) gas. The fuel system isn't gravity feed, once power is cut to the fuel pump there isn't any way for the gas to leak out.
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Feb 20, 2016 17:19
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The year of the Focus is 2000. Anyway some bad news guys. It turns out that I can't unscrew the bracket to the fuel filter with conventional tools. To make things short, the fuel filter sits in between the gas tank and a wall of some sort (probably another car part). When I try to put a ratchet and socket in between this gap, it is little thick by a about a millimeter or two. I then decide to use wrench, but it just doesn't work because even if it fits there isn't an angle where I can rotate it far enough as the hump from the fuel filter and a wall to the right both block it. In short, I need to make my ratchet and socket be shorter combined length in order to properly take the bracket off. Any recommendations?
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Feb 20, 2016 18:34
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Post a pic.
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Feb 20, 2016 19:38
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Cakefool posted:Post a pic. I would but I don't have a proper light so you can fully see the whole picture.
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Feb 20, 2016 20:53
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punk rebel ecks posted:I would but I don't have a proper light so you can fully see the whole picture. grab a ratcheting box wrench.
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Feb 20, 2016 21:44
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Ozmiander posted:grab a ratcheting box wrench. This is the solution. Agreeing with the above on fuses/no evap. Replaced this thing a bunch of times on my 2002, then let it go for about 50k because it just slipped my mind until it was so clogged it would starve the engine and I'd run out of gas with half a tank.
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Feb 20, 2016 22:11
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Godholio posted:This is the solution. Agreeing with the above on fuses/no evap. Replaced this thing a bunch of times on my 2002, then let it go for about 50k because it just slipped my mind until it was so clogged it would starve the engine and I'd run out of gas with half a tank. Alternate solution: Socket drive cap thing from HF, then turn that with a conventional or ratcheting wrench.  Assuming that little adapter is thinner than your ratchet.
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Feb 21, 2016 01:07
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Ozmiander posted:grab a ratcheting box wrench. That still wouldn't work. Raluek posted:Alternate solution: Socket drive cap thing from HF, then turn that with a conventional or ratcheting wrench. This on the other hand could work.
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Feb 21, 2016 01:53
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I have a 2006 Toyota Corolla LE with a 1.8 L 4-cylinder engine. Last week my check engine light came on, and I've heard that sometimes it can happen because the gas cap is off/loose, so I unscrewed it then rescrewed it back in to make sure it was on correctly. I didn't drive it much over the course of the week (maybe once or twice) since I didn't want anything bad to happen before I took it to a mechanic. Yesterday when I got in the car to drive to the store I noticed that the check engine light is now off. I asked a friend who said that I should still take it in to a mechanic since that's not normal, but I just wanted to get a second opinion from y'all since who knows how expensive it will be to take it in. Should I take it in because it had the check engine light on, or is it not a big deal now that it's off? Thanks in advance guys.
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Feb 21, 2016 03:42
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Check engine lights you can get the codes read for free at Autozone (except in california because reasons), you could take it there to double check it's all gone. If it's off you're probably fine.
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Feb 21, 2016 03:45
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Enourmo posted:Check engine lights you can get the codes read for free at Autozone (except in california because reasons), you could take it there to double check it's all gone. So if I take it in and there is no code I'm alright? Is the code that triggered the check engine light initially not stored or something?
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Feb 21, 2016 04:19
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They usually are, but depending whether they have a basic code reader or a legit full function scan tool they might not be able to pull history codes, just active and pending.
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Feb 21, 2016 04:27
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If the light is off I wouldn't worry about it. If it comes back maybe get the codes read. You could also get a code reader for real cheap on aliexpress and pull the codes yourself.
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Feb 21, 2016 10:58
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Insert typical recommendation for ELM327 + Torque Pro app here.
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Feb 21, 2016 18:48
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So now taking off the fuel filter on my 2000 Ford Focus SE. I'm at this part of the video. I need to take the hose out, but I don't know how.  In the video the guy says "push and a twist" but that isn't really working for me. What am I doing wrong?
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Feb 21, 2016 20:35
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Push the light colored plastic piece in the middle and while holding it in pull the fitting off of the filter/fuel line. e: although the one circled in that picture is the "not enough room to remove in place" piece I was referring to earlier. Track the line back and (as visible in the background) there's a second quick release that attaches to the hard fuel line, disconnect it and remove the filter with the hose still attached. Geoj fucked around with this message at 21:29 on Feb 21, 2016 |
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Feb 21, 2016 21:26
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