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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Also, if they won't let you take the car for a PPI, that provides you with a very useful data point. Your advice that tipped me into getting a PPI saved me. Fifty bucks, and: All tires mismatched and weatherchecked. Left rear tire had a broken cord, right rear was worn unevenly. The front right lateral strut rod bushing squeaked when I drove it and there was evidence of a prior collision related to that area of the car. The front right wheel bearings/brakes were squeaking too. Rear brakes were at 25%, the accessory belts were worn and cracking, it was leaking oil at the distributor and valve cover gasket. On top of all this, they suggested that the timing belt had NOT in fact been replaced a couple days ago, despite the shiny sticker (the only clean thing in the engine area. They also pointed out to me while we all looked at it that there was no sign the cover had even been removed or been touched with a wrench - everything was dusty.) Again, your pushing me into bothering with a PPI saved me. Totally worth the 50 bucks - I don't have much of an eye for that kind of thing with cars. I'm not going back to that shop/mechanic, heh - he actually got upset at the guys who did the PPI and mentioned slander related to the timing belt thing, and called them directly. sandpiper fucked around with this message at 01:51 on Mar 4, 2016 |
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Mar 4, 2016 01:47
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sandpiper posted:Your advice that tipped me into getting a PPI saved me. Fifty bucks, and: Frame this post and put it in the OP.
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Mar 4, 2016 03:02
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sandpiper posted:Your advice that tipped me into getting a PPI saved me. Fifty bucks, and:  good for you and I'm glad you took the advice!
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Mar 4, 2016 04:14
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Professor Shark posted:Yeah I didn't most of that- here's a car I like that appears to be cheaper, what do you think of it? Looks fine. The 1.4L Turbo is a good engine but maybe slightly less reliable long term than the 1.6. "Certified" isn't worth poo poo. I had that exact car's twin as a rental and it was fine. See if you can check maintenance records and service intervals and make sure the requisite work has been done.
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Mar 4, 2016 04:16
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Sandpiper: A: you followed forum advice and it paid off. That is a forum record. This is worth one none snarky reply in the legal advice thread.* B: only $50 for that. You should keep going to the dude who did the ppi. * only applies if I remember. "Get a lawyer" is not a snarky reply.
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Mar 4, 2016 04:23
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nm posted:Sandpiper: Yeah, they were real helpful and nice people. I had a bit of a funny moment later on because I walked back over to the PPI place and asked the front desk guy a couple more things, and the place where I had been looking at the car happened to make an angry call to the front desk the same time as I walked in their door for the second time, so I got to see a bit of that. I kinda hope I don't get dragged into some legal dispute regarding slander (which that guy mentioned, as I said before) but they even referred me to a reliable shop in their opinion. Those guys were troopers. Again, glad I bothered to post in this thread first. I almost got suckered because I'm on a time limit and I do need a car relatively quickly because I can't do my job without it.
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Mar 4, 2016 04:51
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sandpiper posted:Yeah, they were real helpful and nice people. "To the best of my recollection I informed them I would not be purchasing the vehicle and they began yelling at me so I left."
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Mar 4, 2016 05:05
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Is it safe to assume if someone lists a car at 33% under kbb that it either a scam or the car is going to explode.
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Mar 4, 2016 06:43
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Calidus posted:Is it safe to assume if someone lists a car at 33% under kbb that it either a scam or the car is going to explode. KBB isn't that accurate. See what cars are listed for on CL or otherwise. That price may be pretty accurate.
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Mar 4, 2016 12:56
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sandpiper posted:I kinda hope I don't get dragged into some legal dispute regarding slander (which that guy mentioned, as I said before) For a whole slew of reasons you really don't need to worry about this.
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Mar 4, 2016 15:42
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So I want a car that is good on gas mileage, that is reliable, and I can get used for relatively cheap ($9,000 or less, but $6500 would be ideal). How is the Toyota Yaris? I keep seeing it online.
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Mar 6, 2016 05:36
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Looks fine. The 1.4L Turbo is a good engine but maybe slightly less reliable long term than the 1.6. "Certified" isn't worth poo poo. I had that exact car's twin as a rental and it was fine. See if you can check maintenance records and service intervals and make sure the requisite work has been done. I know I've been doing a lot of back and forth, but I'm looking at this thing now, which I'm hoping to get over 5 years. What do you think of it? Is 44k+ a lot for a '14?
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Mar 6, 2016 12:40
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Professor Shark posted:I know I've been doing a lot of back and forth, but I'm looking at this thing now, which I'm hoping to get over 5 years. What do you think of it? Is 44k+ a lot for a '14? Not really, but yikes at a 5 year note on whatever $9k canadian is, like 6.5? Are you sure you can afford a car?
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Mar 6, 2016 15:32
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punk rebel ecks posted:So I want a car that is good on gas mileage, that is reliable, and I can get used for relatively cheap ($9,000 or less, but $6500 would be ideal). Same here, but an automatic. I don't know if it's a good thing or bad thing as a warning sign when some dealers list a car as an automatic when I can clearly see it's a loving manual! I know poo poo all about cars but I am looking for a new used one, and even I know what that loving stick is by the e-brake! I currently have a 99 Altima that has 245k miles on her. I know she's about due to die but is that high a mileage odd for a car or standard for Nissans?
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Mar 6, 2016 15:33
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IRQ posted:Not really, but yikes at a 5 year note on whatever $9k canadian is, like 6.5? Are you sure you can afford a car? I'm going to take a stab at they don't have a few grand saved up so they can't go buy a 10 year old honda because no one will give a loan on it.. I don't know how lovely your credit/dads credit is.. but if It's I think 710-720 (These are american numbers not sure how Canadians do credit numbers) he should qualify for either a CPO low interest loan, or Low interest new loan (2.99 for 60 months is the deal right now).. you may find that a brand spaking new fit LX may be about the same payment for a brand new friggin car.. I just ran some numbers and a new 2016 fit DX will run you 213 a month to lease for 4 years, or 294 to buy @ 5 years 6 years puts it at 252. Less if you have some savings to put down I'm not sure how canada works but a co-signer is as equally as responsible if pay doesn't happen so he isnt' gaining anythign by only co-signing other than the car will be registered in your name. Honeslty see if you can convince him to put it in his name fully if it works that way in Canada, it wont' build your credit if you pay on time.. but will save you money.
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Mar 6, 2016 16:27
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IRQ posted:Not really, but yikes at a 5 year note on whatever $9k canadian is, like 6.5? Are you sure you can afford a car? My dad wants me to go 4 years, $250/mth, which combined with my ~$100/mth insurance would put me at $350. My bills add up to be just short of $1000/mth, putting very little on my modest credit card/student debt, and my minimum earnings are about $1450 a month as a substitute teacher  My parents have assured me that they'll help me out whenever I feel I can't make payment, and there was apparently even some discussion about just buying the car for me and paying them back, but I want to build credit and do as much as I can.
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Mar 6, 2016 22:51
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But yeah, I've been worrying non stop for the past few days, despite my girlfriend and parents telling me it's okay
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Mar 6, 2016 23:11
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How old are you/driving history? $100/month insurance seems quite high to me, maybe thats a Canada thing too though. Over the 4 years it'd take you to pay it off that's $5k worth of insurance on a $9k car.
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Mar 6, 2016 23:19
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That's just me rounding up from the $990/yr, $1M coverage that they quoted me, I guess it's more like $87/mth Driving History: I've been driving since I was 22, so only 7 years, no accidents aside from when someone drove into me in a parking lot
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Mar 6, 2016 23:23
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100% Dundee posted:How old are you/driving history? $100/month insurance seems quite high to me, maybe thats a Canada thing too though. Over the 4 years it'd take you to pay it off that's $5k worth of insurance on a $9k car. Liability has a minimum cost so when you crash your car with theirs you can replace their car. I assume half of that is comprehensive, which you may or may not need on a $9k car depending on if you can afford the risk exposure. Make sure you're looking into bundling your insurances such as homeowners/renters (fire policy), car, etc. Consider going on your parents insurance if you're living with them. It may net out cheaper especially if they have been with a provider for a long time.
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Mar 6, 2016 23:29
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H110Hawk posted:Liability has a minimum cost so when you crash your car with theirs you can replace their car. I assume half of that is comprehensive, which you may or may not need on a $9k car depending on if you can afford the risk exposure. If he's getting a loan, he needs comp coverage. I'm sure it is a term of the loan. $990/year seems fairly reasonable for full coverage with a $1 mil cap. Do shop around though: My prior insurance company thought nothing of a heavily modified subaru (disclosed with mods covered), but buy a 100hp Mazda2? gently caress no, they wanted nothing of that poo poo. They wanted like triple to cover that car. Shop every car you consider at multiple insurance companies. nm fucked around with this message at 00:34 on Mar 7, 2016 |
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Mar 7, 2016 00:32
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Cross posting from my own AI post:dpack_1 posted:I'm thinking of getting myself a low end Mercedes CL500. dpack_1 fucked around with this message at 14:22 on Mar 7, 2016 |
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Mar 7, 2016 13:31
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There have been a lot of very different cars wearing the CL500 badge. Do you mean the W140 (early 1990s), the C215 (late 90s early 200s), or the C216 (last generation)? German engineering - why design something to be repairable with off the shelf tooling when you could sell proprietary tools instead?
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Mar 7, 2016 14:49
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:There have been a lot of very different cars wearing the CL500 badge. Do you mean the W140 (early 1990s), the C215 (late 90s early 200s), or the C216 (last generation)? The 90's-2005 era. Something like THIS And yeah, i know they're a bitch on any repairs, but from what i understand the V8's they put in these things were somewhat bullet proof. It's just a lot of little things that could go wrong which add up?
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Mar 7, 2016 15:19
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Well, that didn't load, but the C215 is not very reliable. Do not get AIRMATIC. The engine is great, but yes, the rest of the car will fall apart. If you are willing to budget a decent chunk of cash for repairs, go for it. They're great cars. But don't expect this to be a reliable car. I would prefer a W140 anyway.
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Mar 7, 2016 15:24
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My car friends at work advise me against getting a Chevy or Ford, but Honda is okay, Nissan is better. They got into a fight about VW bugs being better or worse than other non-US cars.
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Mar 8, 2016 01:02
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Cowslips Warren posted:My car friends at work advise me against getting a Chevy or Ford, but Honda is okay, Nissan is better. They got into a fight about VW bugs being better or worse than other non-US cars. Your friends smoke a lot of crack do they?
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Mar 8, 2016 01:50
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Cowslips Warren posted:My car friends at work advise me against getting a Chevy or Ford, but Honda is okay, Nissan is better. They got into a fight about VW bugs being better or worse than other non-US cars. You can't judge reliability just by brand. Chevy and Ford have made some truly terrible cars, but a Ford Focus with the Zetec or Duratec engine is a pretty solid little econobox - and the "yuck, Ford, my grandpa had a Pinto and that thing was trash" factor keeps prices lower on the used market. When you're looking at used cars that have been on the road for more than a few years, condition also gets more important than initial quality. I'd rather have a Chevy Cavalier that was babied and given every maintenance item on schedule than a Civic or Camry that was beat on by a series of high school/college students and given oil changes every 20,000 miles. Assuming you're talking about the VW Beetle that's been produced since the 1990s, avoid avoid avoid. They made a lot of sacrifices to get the classic rear-engined Volkswagen shape out of a front-engine platform, and the engines they put in there were never reliable. In general, German cars tend to be a lot stricter on maintenance requirements then American or Japanese - if you vant ze pure driving experience they are good at that, but they also come up with scheduled maintenance that requires you to remove the entire front of the car.
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Mar 8, 2016 02:05
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Well, that didn't load, but the C215 is not very reliable. Do not get AIRMATIC. The engine is great, but yes, the rest of the car will fall apart. All CLs had ABC standard. I hope he likes spending money and fixing cars more than driving them! You're almost certainly better off just leasing a new E400 Coupe for about $800/month.
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Mar 8, 2016 02:13
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dpack_1 posted:The 90's-2005 era. "Add up" - You will never get out of a repair for under $1,000. This is not an exaggeration. You might get the car "cheap" but you will have a payment.
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Mar 8, 2016 02:25
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What is your guys impression of the mazda3 hatchback 08-12? I have been looking really hard at honda fits the past week and do think they are a solid car but the look of the madza is way more my taste. If it comes down that the Fit is way above the competition for a smaller hatchback then I will go with that, otherwise I am curious my other close quality options.
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Mar 8, 2016 03:31
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Ai loves the mazda 3.
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Mar 8, 2016 03:42
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nm posted:Ai loves the mazda 3. Everyone loves the Mazda 3.
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Mar 8, 2016 04:37
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Ingenium posted:What is your guys impression of the mazda3 hatchback 08-12? I have been looking really hard at honda fits the past week and do think they are a solid car but the look of the madza is way more my taste. If it comes down that the Fit is way above the competition for a smaller hatchback then I will go with that, otherwise I am curious my other close quality options. 08-12 Mazda3 hatch was only available with the 2.5l engine, and is significantly thirstier than the 1.5l Fit. Maybe with gas prices these days it doesn't matter that much. You should try and get a 13+ skyactiv.
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Mar 8, 2016 05:06
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Honda CRZ is a reliable car right?
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Mar 8, 2016 05:20
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punk rebel ecks posted:Honda CRZ is a reliable car right? It's also pointless and lovely.
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Mar 8, 2016 05:25
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:It's also pointless and lovely. How so?
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Mar 8, 2016 05:32
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punk rebel ecks posted:How so? It only has two seats and a parcel shelf, it's about as useful as a Miata without any of the advantages. Despite being a hybrid it also doesn't get very good fuel economy.
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Mar 8, 2016 05:33
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All right, I'm done now. The stress is over. 2003 Toyota Corolla, all the tires/brake stuff was done in summer 2015, the accessory belts actually looked new this time (and the engine wasn't like washed pre-sale) and the car doesn't squeak. The only real problems with it are some potential bearing issues (for Corollas, that's really cheap) and the paint on the car has a few spots where it's dulled/finish worn, but that one's cosmetic. The guys I went to for a PPI said it was a great car, but when they gave me their quote on what it'd take to fix a few of the minor issues, I was surprised - it turns out they overcharge like gently caress according to another mechanic I talked to. Either way, I'm really happy with my purchase and it's thanks to this thread convincing me to get a PPI on that Accord last week.
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Mar 8, 2016 05:35
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punk rebel ecks posted:How so? It's a slow, heavy car that also gets terrible fuel economy for a hybrid. It's literally the worst of all worlds and you're better off getting any cheap used hatchback with a normal gas engine.
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Mar 8, 2016 05:59
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