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Rukus posted:With the ER-PoE make sure you're using VLANs for your APs and a managed switch for wired devices. The Edgerouters' hardware acceleration is disabled if you bridge ports to make one big LAN. Not entirely true. Eth2-4 are switched ports so they can all be on the same subnet without a performance penalty. Eth0 and Eth1 are routed only, you get the performance hit when you bridge one of those with the Switch0 (Eth2-4) interface.
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Mar 7, 2016 13:33
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smax posted:Not entirely true. Eth2-4 are switched ports so they can all be on the same subnet without a performance penalty. Eth0 and Eth1 are routed only, you get the performance hit when you bridge one of those with the Switch0 (Eth2-4) interface. Good to know, here's hoping the next ER revisions get beefier hardware to make this a non-issue.
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Mar 7, 2016 14:37
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Rukus posted:Good to know, here's hoping the next ER revisions get beefier hardware to make this a non-issue. It's already a non-issue on the ER-X as well. If I remember right, the ERPOE-5 and the ER-X are the only two Edgerouters with true switching though. smax fucked around with this message at 14:41 on Mar 7, 2016 |
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Mar 7, 2016 14:39
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But the ER-X only has one PoE out port, if that matters to you. (3-flat guy needs to power three AC Lites.)
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Mar 7, 2016 15:06
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bolind posted:But the ER-X only has one PoE out port, if that matters to you. (3-flat guy needs to power three AC Lites.) Yep, that's the trade off. Alternatively, he could just get an ER-3 with an external switch and use the PoE injectors, or an ER-X with the injectors. There are a handful of options that might be cheaper and would work just as well, with the trade off of having more wires to deal with.
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Mar 7, 2016 15:45
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I'll preface this post by apologising for my lack of technical knowledge when it comes to networks and for any incorrect jargon or things contained within. Networking is one area where nothing sticks in my brain. We're in the UK with a large old Victorian house with thick stone walls. Also there are other houses we own and rent out within close range. Because of the number of people sharing the connection and the thickness of the walls a couple years ago I bought an ASUS n66u router and separate TPlink modem and managed to fudge it working and it performed very well, with strong connections for everyone anywhere they wanted to use it. The bottleneck then became the broadband speed. Fibre broadband became available in our area recently so I ordered it and today is the switchover. I've got the BT home hub 5 installed and just waiting on the connection settling down. What I want to know is: do I have to use the home hub at all? I'm assuming that even though the n66u is a few years old at this point, it will still perform better as a dedicated router than the home hub. I'm basing this on the not very technically minded concept that more visible antennas = better, and the maybe slightly more technical fact that my connection to the hub is fluctuating between 2/3 bars on iOS when with the n66u it was a fairly constant 3. So once the ISP sorts their poo poo out, can I either go back to the old set up with the TPlink modem and ASUS, or use the home hub as the new modem and disable everything else and link it to the ASUS? Or am I better off getting a guy I know who works as a network admin to come round and paying him in beer to sort it all out?
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Mar 7, 2016 20:20
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I think my wireless adapter is dying, but I'm not sure. On my Windows 7 install, sometimes it wouldn't come back up after the computer went to sleep. On Windows 10, it never does that. But now it just drops out. Maybe every other day it will drop out during daytime, but it drops 2 or 3 times between 10PM and midnight. When it drops, my phone still works, so it's not the modem/router/Comcast. I tried going to the router's IP, and that didn't work. It will fix itself after maybe 45 seconds or a minute. It's a Netgear WNDA3100 N600 USB thing. I'm sure it's crap, I had to buy something local when I ended up moving somewhere I didn't know didn't have ethernet a few years ago. I'm just trying to figure out if there could be some sort of software problem rather than hardware. I found that they have a new driver, so I just installed that, maybe that will help.
22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 18:53 on Mar 8, 2016 |
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Mar 8, 2016 09:35
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Butterfly Valley posted:What I want to know is: do I have to use the home hub at all? Nope. The new homehub, which is probably what you have, is an all in one unit with built-in modem, so if you want to replace it with a third party router you'll need one of these as an NTE: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bt-openreach-modem-/222039415983?hash=item33b2949caf:g:XekAAOSwG-1W1dDZ If you already have one of those then you can just plug in your existing router and configure the PPPoE settings.
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Mar 8, 2016 11:48
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I just got given a Ubiquiti UAP and the 24v POE adapter (score!) Am I correct in thinking I can power the AP and my ERX by connecting the POE adapter between my fibre termination and port 0 of the ERX and then connect the AP to port 4? Is POE all enabled by default in the ERX? Can you have the power plug and the POE connected at the same time? I don't want to fry anything.
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Mar 9, 2016 21:30
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Ok, I finally ran my cable from one end of the house to the other, punched it down and I have a connection. Only trouble is it seems to be 100Mbps instead of gigabit. I've had a look for ethernet testers and it looks like there's only ones for testing cables with plugs on the end rather than keystone jacks. Am I right in thinking that I need to test two patch cables to make sure they're ok, then plug one in to each end of the longer cable and put the testers on the end of that whole long arrangement? Or is there a better way of checking if I've hosed up the punchdown?
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Mar 9, 2016 23:27
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Red_Fred posted:I just got given a Ubiquiti UAP and the 24v POE adapter (score!) Am I correct in thinking I can power the AP and my ERX by connecting the POE adapter between my fibre termination and port 0 of the ERX and then connect the AP to port 4? Is POE all enabled by default in the ERX? Can you have the power plug and the POE connected at the same time? I don't want to fry anything. I know people were hitting power issues with a similar setup with the UAP-AC-Lite. After 5 or so wireless clients, the ER-X and the AP were pulling more than the injector could supply.
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Mar 9, 2016 23:30
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Fil5000 posted:Ok, I finally ran my cable from one end of the house to the other, punched it down and I have a connection. Only trouble is it seems to be 100Mbps instead of gigabit. I've had a look for ethernet testers and it looks like there's only ones for testing cables with plugs on the end rather than keystone jacks. Am I right in thinking that I need to test two patch cables to make sure they're ok, then plug one in to each end of the longer cable and put the testers on the end of that whole long arrangement? Or is there a better way of checking if I've hosed up the punchdown? Yes, just use patch cables and also what type of cable did you run?
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Mar 9, 2016 23:39
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So I was upgrading my Airport Extreme 5th Gen to the new Airport Extreme 802.11ac; did the usual unpacking. Being a refurb, it came in a plain box that had the same exact dimensions as the retail box, but there was literally nothing printed on it except for an FCC label at the bottom. Inside the single power cord and AEac were all nicely wrapped up, just like the retail version. When I ran Airport Utility from my El Capitan setup, the coolest thing happened.. Airport Utility automatically spotted my old AEBS and the brand new AEac and launched its own internal script that did these things: • asked if I wanted to set up the new AEac the same way as my old AEBS • asked what I wanted to call the new AEac, if anything • ported the settings from my old AEBS to the new, renamed it exactly what I asked for • showed a screen saying it was waiting for you to 'change cables' complete with idiot map of pictures telling you to yank Ethernet cable from old AEBS to new AEac • detected when the cable switch was complete and said you were done, go enjoy your new connection Since it's currently in the same room as me, option clicking the Airport icon told me I was connected at 1330 Mbps or something like that. It also reset the old AEBS to its factory settings as I could see it after the porting as "Apple Network a3bc2" or whatever. Binary Badger fucked around with this message at 00:41 on Mar 10, 2016 |
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Mar 10, 2016 00:39
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I have a SB6141 cable modem that's rebooting every few hours with the log entry "Cable Modem Reboot due to power reset." The power isn't being reset and the router plugged into the same outlet via the same splitter has months of uptime. I've replaced the AC adapter with a new 12v 2a adapter but the modem is still making GBS threads itself every few hours. Is it a safe bet that the modem needs to be replaced? Is the sb6141 still recommended? Of note is the fact that the coax in here is really lovely and noisy, probably full of nails, but idk if that could result in a power reset poverty goat fucked around with this message at 02:17 on Mar 10, 2016 |
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Mar 10, 2016 02:14
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The 6183 might be worth it if you're thinking about going up to a higher speed. It's also just generally more reliable for some people.
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Mar 10, 2016 02:26
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The Goatfather posted:I have a SB6141 cable modem that's rebooting every few hours with the log entry "Cable Modem Reboot due to power reset." The power isn't being reset and the router plugged into the same outlet via the same splitter has months of uptime. I've replaced the AC adapter with a new 12v 2a adapter but the modem is still making GBS threads itself every few hours. Is it a safe bet that the modem needs to be replaced? Is the sb6141 still recommended? It shouldn't make the modem reboot. Your modem is probably just dying. The SB6141 and SB6183 are both good choices. Now that the price on the 6183 has come down a bit I feel it is probably the better choice for most people. However if you were getting your advertised speed with the 6141 (not counting the random reboots) and you aren't planning to jump up to a higher speed tier then there isn't much reason not to get another 6141.
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Mar 10, 2016 04:28
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Downbuzz aspect of Unifi Controller is that it needs Java. I deleted Java a few months back because I didn't need it and it sucks. It now apparently has crapware built in to the installer. Good work Oracle.
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Mar 10, 2016 06:26
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Inspector_666 posted:Yes, just use patch cables and also what type of cable did you run? Solid core cat 6 with cat 6 keystone jacks at the end
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Mar 10, 2016 08:20
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Red_Fred posted:I just got given a Ubiquiti UAP and the 24v POE adapter (score!) Am I correct in thinking I can power the AP and my ERX by connecting the POE adapter between my fibre termination and port 0 of the ERX and then connect the AP to port 4? Is POE all enabled by default in the ERX? Can you have the power plug and the POE connected at the same time? I don't want to fry anything. I do this, and it's working fine. Don't think I've exceeded 10 WiFi clients or so, though. If you read the specs it should work. The injector supplies 12W and the ERX and UAP Lite consume around 11.5W combined. I made a blergh post about this.
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Mar 10, 2016 09:37
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Awesome I'll give it a shot tonight. It took me like 2 hours last night to get the AP going but that was mainly issues with the Windows firewall and the Unifi controller. I assume you don't want the ERX connected to the POE and power adapter at the same time? I'm just thinking about the workflow of cutting this over.
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Mar 10, 2016 21:47
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Correct. One or the other. Although I'm pretty sure the HW designers have thought about this.
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Mar 11, 2016 08:30
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Now that I have a nice new AC router, I'd like to replace the old wireless card in my laptop with something to match it. What are the good choices? Needs to be a half-size Mini-PCI Express adapter.
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Mar 11, 2016 09:04
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bolind posted:Correct. One or the other. Although I'm pretty sure the HW designers have thought about this. Seems to be working however the port0 seems to only be 100m now, is this expected? Or is my POE injector poo poo? Shouldn't matter as my connection is only 100m but still.
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Mar 11, 2016 09:14
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PoE injector should still be able to pass gigabit. What probably happens is that the other end (to your internet) only runs 100 mbit physical, which forces the ERX port 0 to 100 mbit. If you want to make sure, try to move the other end to, say, port 1 and see if that is pulled down to 100mbit too. Finally, ensure that your patch cable is Cat. 5e or better.
bolind fucked around with this message at 09:52 on Mar 11, 2016 |
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Mar 11, 2016 09:21
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My internet termination is 1gig for sure as it was when I was using the power adapter. My 24v POE is from an older UAP so maybe it's just that?
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Mar 11, 2016 10:08
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No idea, but shuffle things around a bit and investigate if it's an issue for you, or leave it be if it isn't.
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Mar 11, 2016 11:18
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Red_Fred posted:My internet termination is 1gig for sure as it was when I was using the power adapter. My 24v POE is from an older UAP so maybe it's just that? I think that's your problem.
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Mar 11, 2016 13:42
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Wilford Cutlery posted:Now that I have a nice new AC router, I'd like to replace the old wireless card in my laptop with something to match it. What are the good choices? Needs to be a half-size Mini-PCI Express adapter. I think ASUS makes one. Their wi-fi dongle stuff is usually pretty solid.
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Mar 11, 2016 14:33
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mediaphage posted:I think ASUS makes one. Their wi-fi dongle stuff is usually pretty solid. I think he's looking for an internal laptop Wi-Fi card, which ASUS does not make. If you need a Half Mini PCIe consider the Intel 7260.
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Mar 11, 2016 17:33
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Red_Fred posted:My 24v POE is from an older UAP so maybe it's just that?
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Mar 11, 2016 17:41
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Antillie posted:It shouldn't make the modem reboot. Your modem is probably just dying. The SB6141 and SB6183 are both good choices. Now that the price on the 6183 has come down a bit I feel it is probably the better choice for most people. However if you were getting your advertised speed with the 6141 (not counting the random reboots) and you aren't planning to jump up to a higher speed tier then there isn't much reason not to get another 6141. Actually if one of the channels on the SB6141 gets lovely enough or loses connection it will reboot itself to try and establish a better link. Happened constantly on my modem with Charter until I switched it out with a Netgear and re-tightened all my coax lines.
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Mar 11, 2016 18:01
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Wilford Cutlery posted:Now that I have a nice new AC router, I'd like to replace the old wireless card in my laptop with something to match it. What are the good choices? Needs to be a half-size Mini-PCI Express adapter. Intel 3160 is cheap and dual-band AC and has Bluetooth too, what more could you want? I put one of these in a Latitude E6230 not long ago and it works great.
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Mar 11, 2016 19:44
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CrazyLittle posted:The old injectors are 100mbit Ah right, thanks. Any idea if a UAP will run off the ERX via POE and the standard power plug?
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Mar 11, 2016 21:08
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Ynglaur posted:I think he's looking for an internal laptop Wi-Fi card, which ASUS does not make. If you need a Half Mini PCIe consider the Intel 7260. Eletriarnation posted:Intel 3160 is cheap and dual-band AC and has Bluetooth too, what more could you want? I put one of these in a Latitude E6230 not long ago and it works great. Thank you both! Yes, looking to go internal.
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Mar 11, 2016 21:11
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Red_Fred posted:Ah right, thanks. Any idea if a UAP will run off the ERX via POE and the standard power plug?
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Mar 12, 2016 03:02
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smax posted:I'll need someone to confirm, but I think the answer is no. I think the ER-X will only supply something like 12V when using the wall plug. Yeah, you need a different wall adapter than the one it ships with IIRC. the ER-X uses 5W and the UAP can use up to 6.5W, so you need something that can handle that.
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Mar 12, 2016 03:32
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Ynglaur posted:I think he's looking for an internal laptop Wi-Fi card, which ASUS does not make. If you need a Half Mini PCIe consider the Intel 7260. Oh snap, I missed the laptop part.
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Mar 12, 2016 04:17
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Viper_3000 posted:Yeah, you need a different wall adapter than the one it ships with IIRC. the ER-X uses 5W and the UAP can use up to 6.5W, so you need something that can handle that. Bummer. Looks like I'll just end up running the ERX off the wall plug and the UAP off the POE. Not the most elegant but saves me buying another POE injector.
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Mar 12, 2016 04:51
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smax posted:Not entirely true. Eth2-4 are switched ports so they can all be on the same subnet without a performance penalty. Eth0 and Eth1 are routed only, you get the performance hit when you bridge one of those with the Switch0 (Eth2-4) interface. Oh, this is very interesting to me. I was planning on having 3 APs + one desktop on the same subnet; it seems like this wouldn't easily be possible without a performance hit! For about the same total cost, I could get the ER-X and a 5-port PoE Toughswitch. Seems that would give me what I want, at the minor expenses of having two separate devices I'd have to configure if I eventually do want to set up separate VLANs for each flat.
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Mar 12, 2016 17:53
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So, dear friends of the home networking thread, regale me with tales of 2GB internet. Comcast now offers this very gimmicky speed that screams "Our competitors have 1gb fiber coming? Well we've got 2!" despite the fact that I imagine 99% of home users have (at best) a 1gb router, a 1gb switch, and 1gb network cards in their computers. Are there reasonably priced 10gb switches/routers/etc for home use these days? I've got cat 6e run everywhere, so I should be good in that regard. While I'm not sure I feel like paying the high price for it, I figure it might be time to start working on infrastructure for the day the price comes down (ha), where's a good place to start?
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Mar 12, 2016 20:03
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