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Ak Gara posted:I'm thinking on running my AVR (Denon 2113) to 3 MiniDSP 2x4 HD's (20 PEQ, 2048 FIR taps per channel (in 2 in 2 out mode)) but because my AVR doesn't have preouts, I need a speaker wire to RCA connector, are there typical "go to" versions? This seems awfully complicated. Can you tell us more about your setup? What sources will you be playing? What are you using the AVR for? What will you be doing with the miniDSPs? Wouldn't something like this make far more sense? Edit: To answer your questions though, get some of these: http://www.jaycar.com.au/Sight-&-Sound-Car/In-Car-Entertainment/Accessories/Speaker-(High-Level)-to-Line-Level-Converter/p/AA0482 And grab a second hand AVR with pre-ins to do you amplification. A Lone Girl Flier fucked around with this message at 00:13 on Mar 27, 2016 |
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Mar 27, 2016 00:10
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PC movies and music / consoles to AVR, to MiniDSP, to second amp, to speakers is my idea. Sounds easy at first  The NanoAVR HDA is a cheaper option but with the limitation of only 10 PEQ per channel, and no FIR taps, and only able to handle PCM audio. I do like the idea behind it. I'll have to see how flat my response curve is after I finish re-aranging my media room. If it's not too bad I could probably get away with only 10 PEQ's.
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Mar 27, 2016 00:29
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You could use your PC as decoder, DSP and pre-amp, and send PCM over HDMI to your existing AVR. The delay on game consoles may be too much for you like this, depending on your PC, and you'd need a digital input on your PC for them as well.
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Mar 27, 2016 00:52
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I see this has been asked before in this thread, but the last reply on the topic is from two years ago - I was just wondering whether there are any recommended bluetooth shower/waterproof speakers. There seems to be a lot of similar options but it is hard to know for certain if a model is ahead of others - my emphasis would be sound quality, as far as it is possible with this kind of product.
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Apr 1, 2016 02:50
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I was given some speakers, specifically Altec Lansing MX5021. I don't have the subwoofer or the electronic control thingy, just the speakers and speaker wire. I also have an M-Audio Fast Track Pro, which has RCA white/ red outputs in the back. Can I drive the speakers with the Fast Track Pro, like by splicing an RCA cable and connecting that to the wires? Don't really want to risk breaking them. Thanks! 
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Apr 1, 2016 23:54
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The amplifier was probably in the subwoofer so there's no way to connect them directly. Fortunately there's a bunch of cheap Chinese amps from companies like Lepai and Topping on Amazon that you can get cheap that can drive them.
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Apr 2, 2016 00:27
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Is there any noticeable difference in the quality of pop filters, or should I just go with the first one on the list of hits?
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Apr 3, 2016 12:32
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Wasn't Michael Jackson using pantyhose for that at one point?
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Apr 3, 2016 20:22
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Dubstep Jesus posted:Wasn't Michael Jackson using pantyhose for that at one point?
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Apr 3, 2016 21:22
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So on a high end DAP, how is the EQ usually implemented? I would assume its done in software and maybe at a higher sampling rate. Seems like it would simple enough. I guess you could have an analog EQ after the DAC but that seems too crazy for a DAP(?). Not sure if you can even get a discreet analog EQ small enough for a DAP.
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Apr 13, 2016 02:37
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If I wanted to take the audio from my TV and route it into my PC then out my PC speakers, is that a thing that can be done? I'm thinking TV > L+R RCA to 3.5mm stereo jack > PC's Line In.
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Apr 13, 2016 21:37
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Ak Gara posted:If I wanted to take the audio from my TV and route it into my PC then out my PC speakers, is that a thing that can be done? I'm thinking TV > L+R RCA to 3.5mm stereo jack > PC's Line In. Yes, you can do that. This screenshot is for a mic, but there should be the same for line in:  Right click on the audio icon in the system tray, pick "recording device" then go to properties for the input you want to hear on the PC speakers. Check the "listen to this device" checkbox. If you want to be fancier, you will need something like virtual audio cable. e: Cabling [TV RCA out -> RCA to 3.5mm cable/converter -> PC line-in] is good if you were asking about that, too. also, I assumed windows 10, but there is a similar setting in older windows versions
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Apr 13, 2016 21:40
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taqueso posted:Yes, you can do that. This screenshot is for a mic, but there should be the same for line in: Thanks! I've been playing with Parametric EQ's lately and they make a huge difference.
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Apr 13, 2016 22:12
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Ak Gara posted:Thanks! What are you using? I've been using Equalizer APO with the Peace GUI but it introduces some weird rear end compression that drives me nuts, especially when I turn up the gain.
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Apr 19, 2016 05:10
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thylacine posted:What are you using? I've been using Equalizer APO with the Peace GUI but it introduces some weird rear end compression that drives me nuts, especially when I turn up the gain. I'm using Equalizer APO too, for my PC in my bedroom. but I'm planning to use a laptop or old PC running Equalizer APO for the living room TV. I haven't noticed any compression, can you describe what you're doing? How many filters, what target level you're aiming for etc? At first I was using some really lovely wallmounts. (Z5500) They where so messy I had a 97 PEQ filter just to make them sound good lol.  Now I'm using a PB-1000 + Polk TSI-100's and they need almost no filters at all to sound good.  
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Apr 19, 2016 18:43
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The old rear end JVC stereo I was using with my gaming PC shat itself (was using the white/red aux jack on the stereo to the 3.5 jack on my PC). I'm pretty sure the SP-D4 speakers that came with the stereo set are fine. These are the specific model of speakers: http://www.ebay.com/itm/JVC-SP-D4-6OHM-70Watts-3-way-Speakers-/291708386807 What would be the best/cheapest way to go about hooking those speakers up to my PC now?
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Apr 23, 2016 03:59
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teagone posted:The old rear end JVC stereo I was using with my gaming PC shat itself (was using the white/red aux jack on the stereo to the 3.5 jack on my PC). I'm pretty sure the SP-D4 speakers that came with the stereo set are fine. These are the specific model of speakers: http://www.ebay.com/itm/JVC-SP-D4-6OHM-70Watts-3-way-Speakers-/291708386807 You could use pretty much any stereo amplifier or receiver. One of the Chinese 20-ish watt stereo amplifiers would work great for desk use. Or if you can score your parent's old receiver that didn't have HDMI or something, that would work as long as you have the space for it. This is an example of a cheap chinese amplifier. You need to get an external power supply for any of these little amps. There are a million different brands and similar models of this type of thing, Lepai started the craze, so maybe this one is good but I don't really know. I bet someone has a webpage that compares a bunch. This one seems to get good reviews but is more expensive
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Apr 23, 2016 04:18
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Any old stereo receiver or integrated amplifier of about 40 watts power. I really like NAD stuff, but you'll be able to get serviceable cheaper brands second hand. Edit: Where are you? I have a couple of old amps I'm not using. A Lone Girl Flier fucked around with this message at 04:22 on Apr 23, 2016 |
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Apr 23, 2016 04:19
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I recently (3 months ago...) bought a pair of Sennheiser 558's. The cable that came with it terminates in a 1/4 plug, and included and 1/8th adapter; The adapter, however, does not plug in to the headphone jack on my speakers (Logitech X-530's missing the center and rear channels since I bought them like 10 years ago). It is just too short to get past the part that 'locks' the plug in, so when I need to switch to headphones I have to unplug my speakers from the back of my pc and plug the phones in there. This is obviously stupid, but I don't know what route to take to fix it. So do I: -Buy a USB amp/DAC? If so, what cheap one should I get? -Replacement cable or adapter for the phones? How can I be sure it would fit my speakers' jack? -Buy some sort of splitter or a/b switch? tia oh my god I'm an idiot I thought I hadnt set up my motherboard properly so I ignored my front case headphone jack but it works 365 Nog Hogger fucked around with this message at 03:58 on Apr 24, 2016 |
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Apr 24, 2016 03:41
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I'm looking for some cheap speakers for a garage gym; basically something that can deliver some volume and is reliable, but dont really care toooooo much about idyllic sound quality. Craigslist guy has a pair of Bose 201 Series II speakers + Denon AVR65 receiver. For $100. Good move, or keep looking? Any tips?
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Apr 25, 2016 21:48
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Seems like a good deal, in that you would have to spend about $200 to get that stuff on ebay. I don't have any experience with either, but both seem to get decent reviews. Should be plenty good enough for a garage, anyway.
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Apr 25, 2016 22:38
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That denon is probably worth $100 by itself, if in good condition.
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Apr 25, 2016 22:50
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Cool - thanks guys. Seems like a no-brainer then
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Apr 25, 2016 22:56
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Ak Gara posted:I'm using Equalizer APO too, for my PC in my bedroom. but I'm planning to use a laptop or old PC running Equalizer APO for the living room TV. Oh, I don't lightly attenuate frequencies to get my sounds perfect, I go wild with the sliders when listening to music on my headphones ($40 JVCs) to get it sounding just how I want it. That might be the problem.
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Apr 26, 2016 04:16
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I'm looking for a new receiver or amp. It needs to drive two vintage Advent speakers in my living room. It would be used for movies via Roku and listening to my wife's record player, which I think has a built in phono-to-normal-output switch. It needs to be under 6 inches tall, the shorter the better. I could do this and have full video switching, even though I only have one video source: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B017AECEJI/ref=twister_B017YFKQJI?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Or I could have my TV send along audio via coax SPDIF to this: http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-A-9010-...keywords=a+9010 What would you do? blk fucked around with this message at 05:39 on Apr 26, 2016 |
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Apr 26, 2016 05:02
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They're both slightly overkill and you shouldn't hear any real difference between them, but the AVR will make upgrading to a subwoofer or home theatre system simple, whereas if your turntable doesn't have a built in phono preamp, you'll need the onkyo or be prepared to buy a separate phono preamp for the AVR. Edit: I'd get the AVR, but my usage case is wildly different to yours. A Lone Girl Flier fucked around with this message at 07:45 on Apr 26, 2016 |
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Apr 26, 2016 07:42
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I would also get the AVR. You will likely end up with another video source at some point.
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Apr 26, 2016 17:06
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Walked posted:I'm looking for some cheap speakers for a garage gym; basically something that can deliver some volume and is reliable, but dont really care toooooo much about idyllic sound quality. Picked this up for $100. Pretty loving good sound for the price
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Apr 26, 2016 21:46
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First, I'll say I have barely any experience using soundboards/mixers/pro audio stuff so I may be overlooking some simple things here. But I've been reading manuals and watching a lot of Youtube videos as a start. Basically I'm trying to hook a laptop/iPad/new consumer stuff up to the sound system (Mackie 1402-VLZ ~20 years old) through ~75 feet of 3pin balanced mono XLR cable. Someone had previously purchased a 1/4in. TRS to 3-pin XLR plug wire (and added a 1/8in. adapter) to attempt this conversion but it sounds distorted and you can't hear voices but only loud music. But I wasn't sure that'd work as I'm seeing stuff about some -10dBv and +4dBu mismatch. And I'm ignorant on how stereo is even converted to mono as well. Pointing the mic directly at laptop speakers doesn't work either.  In my research I see a lot of mentions of using a direct input like this one: http://whirlwindusa.com/catalog/black-boxes-effects-and-dis/direct-boxes/pcdi Would this be something that would fix the issue? Also there's an Audio-Technica ATM21 unidirectional dynamic mic (possibly 35-40 years old). Is this one that's okay to have plugged in when the phantom power (48v of DC) is turned on? I've read some older ones can be ruined if DC is sent to them. Let me know if you need more info. Thanks.
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Apr 26, 2016 22:05
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There's no point getting the direct in box, that mixer has proper line inputs, even for all the mic channels (currently you're overpowering a mic preamp that expects a much lower level signal), you just have got to go back to 1/4" jacks or RCA (if using the TAPE IN) on the mixer end of the cable. Your mixing to mono also fucks up because you're plugging this into something that expects a balanced signal and it sort of subtracts the right channel from the left instead of summing them. If the 75ft cable is just a cable, essentially having three conductors, you should be able to transport stereo sound over it, if you frankenstein a custom adapter for it at the mixer end. Your source isn't balanced anyway, so you're not losing that benefit. You've basically got this already ipad-side:  On the other end you need:  Or the same thing with 1/4" TS jacks instead of RCA plugs. TS plug, even if you need to go mono because you lack the mixer channels, because otherwise you're not signalling the mixer an unbalanced signal is coming in and mono summing won't happen properly again. If you need mono, you can solder both the red and blue wire to the same tip of one TS plug and shield to sleeve. Mark this cable properly as a non-standard freak. Also adjust output level on the ipad/input level on the mixer accordingly. I recommend going with 2 1/4" TS jacks for stereo and using channel 7-8 or up so you only have to adjust one slider for both channels. The tape input is great, but doesn't have its own slider and might interfere with more complex monitoring functions on the mixer. Don't know about the phantom power, but it wouldn't be a great idea to have it on while you have an ipad or laptop connected in your current situation either!
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Apr 26, 2016 22:59
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Flipperwaldt posted:There's no point getting the direct in box, that mixer has proper line inputs, even for all the mic channels (currently you're overpowering a mic preamp that expects a much lower level signal), you just have got to go back to 1/4" jacks or RCA (if using the TAPE IN) on the mixer end of the cable. Thanks, that's good news I guess as that'll cost a lot less. Flipperwaldt posted:Your mixing to mono also fucks up because you're plugging this into something that expects a balanced signal and it sort of subtracts the right channel from the left instead of summing them. Could mixing to mono still cause major sound issues even if wired correctly or will it sound acceptable? I'm not 100% sure but I'm pretty sure it's two wires ~75 feet going through a wall/ceiling to a wall outlet. I turned phantom power on and used a multimeter to verify that 48v was going through two of the wires on both XLR outlets (I'd read that some really old PA wiring might only have one wire despite having 3 pins AKA unbalanced mono). Flipperwaldt posted:You've basically got this already ipad-side: I think I understand but let me check. So definitely TS and not TRS? This one would work? http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-PXF-105-XLR3F-Unbalanced-Interconnect/dp/B000068NYM But this would be better? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Premium-XLR-f-to-2x-1-4-Combiner-Splitter-Y-Cable-5m-Braided-Shield-/310613801951 Flipperwaldt posted:Don't know about the phantom power, but it wouldn't be a great idea to have it on while you have an ipad or laptop connected in your current situation either! Yea, that'd be only if I was plugging the laptop etc. through the other side of the active DI box which needs that power. Guess it's a moot issue since I won't be using that now.
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Apr 26, 2016 23:47
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Zogo posted:Could mixing to mono still cause major sound issues even if wired correctly or will it sound acceptable? If music matters at all and/or it's part of a musical performance, I wouldn't be happy with mono. Even though on the other hand 99% of people likely won't know the difference. Zogo posted:So definitely TS and not TRS? This one would work? http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-PXF-105-XLR3F-Unbalanced-Interconnect/dp/B000068NYM The eBay cable is right for stereo use with the stuff you've got already as described earlier. Supposing the long xlr cable is properly wired.
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Apr 27, 2016 00:56
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You might pick up some noise using an unbalanced cable over that distance, depending on what's around. I'd go the stereo route like Flipperwaldt described, and if it was noisy, use the existing cable to pull through two new balanced cables and put di boxes on the source side.
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Apr 27, 2016 04:22
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Flipperwaldt posted:Pf, define acceptable. There shouldn't be major technical issues, but any stereo information will obviously disappear. This means that if there are signals on the left and right channel that are out of phase, that sound will fade down, up to and including disappearing completely. Usually only only a small part of music takes place in that part of the panning spectrum. For legacy reasons, major studios will often mix with mono compatibility in mind. Some home studio enthousiast probably will not and might crank up the 'wide' knob on his console or synth, unaware of the implications. For everything but what's already mono to begin with, you'll be changing the balance of the mix somewhat to a lot. I can think of a few songs off the top of my head that have problems with this. Songs from the '60s are big offenders.
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Apr 27, 2016 04:33
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Flipperwaldt posted:Pf, define acceptable. There shouldn't be major technical issues, but any stereo information will obviously disappear. This means that if there are signals on the left and right channel that are out of phase, that sound will fade down, up to and including disappearing completely. Usually only only a small part of music takes place in that part of the panning spectrum. For legacy reasons, major studios will often mix with mono compatibility in mind. Some home studio enthousiast probably will not and might crank up the 'wide' knob on his console or synth, unaware of the implications. For everything but what's already mono to begin with, you'll be changing the balance of the mix somewhat to a lot. Basically so that music/vocals would be audible and understandable. I guess I won't know for sure until I'm actually using this new cable with certain recordings. Flipperwaldt posted:TS, yes. First cable is likely, as advertised, balanced xlr to unbalanced ts and is not wired up like the schematic in my previous post. If you want to use this, you commit to mono and you need to use one of these at the ipad end as well, instead of the trs to xlr you've got now. In addition to that, you may need a proper stereo to mono jack adapter in front of that as well. Okay I understand now. Waldo P Barnstormer posted:You might pick up some noise using an unbalanced cable over that distance, depending on what's around. I'd go the stereo route like Flipperwaldt described, and if it was noisy, use the existing cable to pull through two new balanced cables and put di boxes on the source side. Is it recommended to use 3 pin XLR still? I'm seeing things on 5 pin XLR and wasn't sure if that's what should be used if I did new cable runs. Would using something like this TSR to dual XLR at the source (and then two of those XLR to TS stereo cables at the mixer) be an option to balance the stereo with the current wiring? The mic would have to be temporarily disconnected in that scenario.
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Apr 27, 2016 05:26
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Zogo posted:Is it recommended to use 3 pin XLR still? I'm seeing things on 5 pin XLR and wasn't sure if that's what should be used if I did new cable runs. Zogo posted:Would using something like this TSR to dual XLR at the source (and then two of those XLR to TS stereo cables at the mixer) be an option to balance the stereo with the current wiring? Zogo posted:The mic would have to be temporarily disconnected in that scenario.
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Apr 27, 2016 08:33
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Here's a thing on making pseudo-balanced connections that would make some sense using instead of the posted trs to dual xlr cable while still avoiding some sort of di-like box at the ipad end. edit: requires all-balanced xlr to trs cables on the mixer end, obviously. Waldo P Barnstormer posted:Why would you have to disconnect your mic? Flipperwaldt fucked around with this message at 10:15 on Apr 27, 2016 |
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Apr 27, 2016 09:58
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Comedy option: laptop -> spdif to aes/ebu convertor -> http://emotiva.com/products/dacs/electronics/dacs/stealth-dc-1
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Apr 27, 2016 12:43
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OK I'll definitely buy that female XLR to dual TS cable soon and eventually report back on how it goes. Strange that the only place I can find to buy it is some Australian company through eBay. Three more questions: -I'm not fully understanding one aspect of the DI Box. If using one of those do you leave the XLR cables from the source as XLR and plug into the mixer mic preamps? Or should they also be converted using those XLR to dual TS line in plugs? I was pretty sure it was the former rather than latter. -If I wanted to hook up a DVD or blu-ray player in the same scenario (rather than laptop/iPad) would this work? http://www.ebay.com/itm/10FT-XLR-Male-to-Dual-RCA-AUDIO-AMP-STERO-cable-3M-/260824420280 -I'm familiar with things for configuring/calibrating various kinds of HDTVs and was curious if there was something like that for audio systems. Are there any good Youtube videos or anything for making sure stereo sound is working okay? I know under the current plan the sound won't be 100% perfect but I wasn't sure if there was some way of reaching and verifying some minimum standard (I know 60s songs were mentioned earlier). Thanks for the help so far. I'm learning a lot. Waldo P Barnstormer posted:I'd use 3 pin connectors because they are for audio and 5 pin is usually for lighting control, but having said that there is no reason why you can't do this, and use one of these on each end, or make your own. Okay I'd probably run at least two more 3pin XLR cables then if it comes to that. Waldo P Barnstormer posted:Why would you have to disconnect your mic? Currently only have two XLR plugs by the source and that TSR to dual XLR cable would've occupied both. Mic is using one of them.
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Apr 27, 2016 22:38
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Zogo posted:OK I'll definitely buy that female XLR to dual TS cable soon and eventually report back on how it goes. Strange that the only place I can find to buy it is some Australian company through eBay. Zogo posted:-I'm not fully understanding one aspect of the DI Box. If using one of those do you leave the XLR cables from the source as XLR and plug into the mixer mic preamps? Or should they also be converted using those XLR to dual TS line in plugs? I was pretty sure it was the former rather than latter. Zogo posted:-If I wanted to hook up a DVD or blu-ray player in the same scenario (rather than laptop/iPad) would this work? As for testing, first just listen to no sound and see if you're not picking up huge amounts of hum or buzz. To test the stereo part of it, something simple like this works well enough. The little guy should be flying all over the place. If there is an impression of movement, right to left and back (or even front to back!) then you will have acheived stereo. This unintentionally hilarious video will also help. If you don't hear anything during the out of phase parts, you've accidentally ended up with mono somehow. There shouldn't be a lot more to it.
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Apr 27, 2016 23:31
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