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here I am again with my silly questions. I might have some kind of part choosing OCD because I can't settle on anything without reading a ton of reviews and stuff (that's how I learned my way around PCs anyway). Now the PSU and cpu cooler are my concern. For the PSU I'm sure I want a modular one, either 550W or 650W (both would provide more power than I'd ever use with a i5 6600K and eventually GTX1070, which should take 350W tops, all things considered) I have narrowed it down to three choices, all of them 80+ gold and highly rated: EVGA 650 GQ (84€) XFX XTR 650W (91€) CORSAIR RMx 550W (99€) At first it would seem a no brainer to go for the Evga 650, it's the cheapest, most efficient according to reviews, and is well reputed. But those same reviews say that it tends to run hot and noisy. Also is produced by FSP, I have no idea who they are and from what I read their stuff seem to be hit or miss. The Corsair has less power and is slightly more expensive, but has a 10 year warranty and it should be the most efficient and quietest one, which is kind of a big deal since the PC stays on all day on loads from idle to watching movies to gaming, my house is quite hot (right now it's about 32°C/90°F in here so anything powered tends to overheat) and I want as little noise as possible when I'm not gaming. Made by Channel Well Technology which is apparently a top rated PSU maker? XFX would be a middle ground, and is made by Seasonic, well known top reputed manufacturer. Also I have a XFX 550W bronze right now and had absolutely zero issues with it so there's that. I am slightly tending towards the Corsair due to the cool / quiet combo, is that stupid on my part? Re: CPU cooler I had seen the Hyper 212 EVO which is always on top of recommended lists, but it's a tad expensive here (37€) and also not the quietest since it can go to 2000rpm. I could keep my old Xigmatek Gaia (free!) which has worked fine for me and is pretty quiet at a maximum of 1500rpm, would that be a bad move somehow? I won't overclock much if at all, and from what I read the 6600K runs quite cool already at stock speed.
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Jul 4, 2016 23:05
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TorakFade posted:EVGA 650 GQ (84€) I put one of these in my main system a few months ago powering a 2500K at 4.4GHz, Radeon 7850, four hard drives and an SSD. The case has a pretty open design (Antec 900) with 120mm fans but I replaced all of them with new Corsairs/Noctuas recently and have them turned down to 7V with adapters, so it's pretty quiet. The power supply definitely isn't audible and I haven't seen any indications that it's producing much heat. Hopefully if it meets the Gold spec it's supposed to then it's only producing around 30-35W of waste heat at maximum, so I wouldn't expect it to be significant compared to the other components. FSP is the same as Fortron, I believe. They are an older manufacturer that has done a lot of OEM work for other brands and I've always heard they were pretty good, but I have nothing concrete on hand to support it. I also bought a Seasonic recently, one of the 400W fanless Platinum models. It was expensive but for a low wattage always on system I figured it would pay for itself within a few years. It reduced the total power draw of the system by 30% immediately which was more than I expected, but that was coming from an old 600W Ultra model with no efficiency rating shown so maybe I should have been more hopeful. I would recommend Seasonic too, definitely. The best approach with a power supply is always to look for a review from a website that does a proper teardown and load testing with precise instruments instead of just overclocked PC hardware though. Often you can find a similar model even if it's not exactly the same wattage, and that will give you some idea of the build quality. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 23:44 on Jul 4, 2016 |
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Jul 4, 2016 23:36
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I have the Corsair one and the fan doesn't even turn on until it's under heavy load, which I believe is also true of the GQ? I expect they'll both be more than quiet enough and they're both high quality models so it's mostly a matter of if you want to pay a little extra for the obscenely long warranty.
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Jul 5, 2016 00:06
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TorakFade posted:here I am again with my silly questions. I might have some kind of part choosing OCD because I can't settle on anything without reading a ton of reviews and stuff (that's how I learned my way around PCs anyway). I've been looking into this today too. I don't know your budget, but it looks like the EVGA GQ series is a bit cheaper, but the GS series is quieter. This is the one I'm looking into buying right now, and it's much quieter according to their charts. Whether it's in your price range is up to you.
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Jul 5, 2016 01:28
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What country are you in? U.S. What are you using the system for? Gaming and streaming. What's your budget? < $1400 If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? 1080, may upgrade to a 1440 monitor some time later. Hello friends, I'm looking to do an ITX build with as much performance as possible with my budget. Not sure what to do about GPU choice, but I understand that I have the following options: 1) I can wait and see (probably futilely) if the aftermarket 1070s lower to $400 and less and/or the availability situation improves. 2) I can also wait for aftermarket RX 480s and decide if that's a better choice for price-to-performance. 3) Pull the trigger on the 970 now and upgrade after 6 years or so to whatever GTX 1x70 is available. 3a. Consider getting the equivalent MSI R9 390 instead of a 970, but then have to ante up some more for a 650W power supply. Speaking of GPU choice, I know there's going to be a very small amount of clearance between the card's fans and the power supply when in the Define Nano S. Should I worry about that negatively affecting both components as far as temps are concerned? Or can I just position the front intake fan to point at the card and not worry about it? Thanks in advance! PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($345.89 @ OutletPC) CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Asus Z170I PRO GAMING Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($163.99 @ B&H) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($64.88 @ OutletPC) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($92.00 @ Amazon) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.49 @ OutletPC) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($299.99 @ B&H) Case: Fractal Design Define Nano S Mini ITX Desktop Case ($64.99 @ NCIX US) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA GS 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($74.99 @ Amazon) Monitor: Asus VX228H 21.5" 60Hz Monitor ($109.99 @ Newegg) Total: $1299.20 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-04 20:25 EDT-0400
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Jul 5, 2016 02:36
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Julie And Candy posted:This was a while back, but thanks for your input. Why the change to ITX? Just for the onboard wifi? Is ITX viable now for higher end builds if I want to go more powerful later on? I've always been intrigued by small form factor PCs but I've avoided them because it seems like a pain in the rear end to build in, and constrains your upgrade options. Put it this way. There is no reason to go ATX or mATX unless you want to go SLI (you don't).
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Jul 5, 2016 03:20
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I'm a long time Mac user and console gamer who has been looking into getting a gaming PC for the first time. My hopes and dreams are: quiet, able to run Xbox One "exclusives" and crazy indie games, can be placed horizontally in my media center. I'm not looking for top end visuals, just 1080p/60fps would be nice.... Trying to pick out parts and research how to build a PC is stressing me the heck out though so now I'm looking at pre-built units to chillax and I found one that doesn't seem terrible? http://www.microcenter.com/product/454949/Envy_750-171_Desktop_Computer $720 open box seems like a pretty decent price for what it is. The major drawbacks are that it supposedly has almost no room for upgrades, and it's a regular tower so I'm not sure how good of an idea it is to place it sideways. Is it a super bad idea? Am I missing any drawbacks? I have no PC gamer friends who can help me build something and it stresses me out!!!
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Jul 5, 2016 03:52
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Bass Bottles posted:I'm a long time Mac user and console gamer who has been looking into getting a gaming PC for the first time. My hopes and dreams are: quiet, able to run Xbox One "exclusives" and crazy indie games, can be placed horizontally in my media center. I'm not looking for top end visuals, just 1080p/60fps would be nice.... You don't want that PC. The video card will have to be replaced to have decent performance and the SSD is of unknown quality. You can place any midtower on its side, although the optical drive (if any) will need to support loading discs vertically (some have little grabbers in the tray for this). There's some low-ish cost builds in the thread that will be better than that for around the same price, but you'll have to assemble it yourself.
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Jul 5, 2016 04:20
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Rexxed posted:You don't want that PC. The video card will have to be replaced to have decent performance and the SSD is of unknown quality. You can place any midtower on its side, although the optical drive (if any) will need to support loading discs vertically (some have little grabbers in the tray for this). There's some low-ish cost builds in the thread that will be better than that for around the same price, but you'll have to assemble it yourself. I've read a lot that cases plan their cooling systems around heat "rising to the top" and that putting them sideways is not recommended, so I'm very nervous about the idea of putting a normal tower sideways. Though honestly, if I were to build a PC I doubt I'd include an optical drive.
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Jul 5, 2016 04:27
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Bass Bottles posted:I've read a lot that cases plan their cooling systems around heat "rising to the top" and that putting them sideways is not recommended, so I'm very nervous about the idea of putting a normal tower sideways. Though honestly, if I were to build a PC I doubt I'd include an optical drive. It depends on the case but most pull in from the front/side and out of the back. A tower is basically a desktop case turned sideways (which is why the motherboard is vertical). If you put it so the motherboard is on the bottom, that's fine too.
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Jul 5, 2016 04:28
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A couple pages ago I asked about 970's and was told they're not a great choice atm. So follow-up question; what gpu do I want for heavy gaming, video editing and rendering? It needs to be Nvidia and my mobo is a ASRock B85m Pro4 if relevant. Also, is my i5 4570 Haswell aging at all? Could I see any performance gains in rendering video with an i7 upgrade if I render via cpu?
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Jul 5, 2016 07:09
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rizuhbull posted:A couple pages ago I asked about 970's and was told they're not a great choice atm. So follow-up question; what gpu do I want for heavy gaming, video editing and rendering? It needs to be Nvidia and my mobo is a ASRock B85m Pro4 if relevant. Also, is my i5 4570 Haswell aging at all? Could I see any performance gains in rendering video with an i7 upgrade if I render via cpu? What's your budget, gaming resolution/refresh rate, and how much do you care about graphic fidelity?
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Jul 5, 2016 08:01
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Bass Bottles posted:I've read a lot that cases plan their cooling systems around heat "rising to the top" and that putting them sideways is not recommended, so I'm very nervous about the idea of putting a normal tower sideways. Though honestly, if I were to build a PC I doubt I'd include an optical drive. I asked over in the small form factor/mini-itx thread for you in case someone reading that thread might have come across some prebuilts that fit the bill but the best fit so far, and what you may want to look at, is the Dell Alienware Alpha. It's super tiny and uses a mobile GPU, but it's around $500 (sometimes less if there's a sale) and is basically a console sized windows PC (it's actually smaller than a lot of consoles). There's not much room for expansion in it and it may not play top tier games at 60 FPS but it's not terrible and is reasonably priced. I've seen them on sale for as low as ~$320 but that's very infrequent: http://www.dell.com/us/p/alienware-alpha/pd?oc=dkcwa05hbts
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Jul 5, 2016 08:45
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TorakFade posted:EVGA 650 GQ (84€)  It's thicker than most case badges and very pleasant to the touch, especially since the white shiny parts are slightly raised, providing a unique tactile experience. A delight to the senses, 10/10.
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Jul 5, 2016 09:01
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PerrineClostermann posted:What's your budget, gaming resolution/refresh rate, and how much do you care about graphic fidelity?
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Jul 5, 2016 09:34
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The 1070 is what you want. It's a little overkill for 1080p60 at the moment but games will catch up soon enough, so if you're not up to buy a 970/480 and then sell it and replace it once they do, it'll end up being a pretty decent value. Stock is pretty barren right now though so you'll have to do a bit of hunting to pick one up, and it'll cost you probably around $430. Try to avoid ones with blower coolers (they look like this) since they're worse if your case has remotely decent airflow. HMS Boromir fucked around with this message at 09:55 on Jul 5, 2016 |
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Jul 5, 2016 09:49
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rizuhbull posted:$~400 but I might be convinced to go higher, 1080/60fps and ShadowPlay is a must unfortunately. Isn't graphical fidelity just a catch-all term for the former two things? Resolution, settings, etc? I'd like to play on max settings for at least a couple years going forward. I'm hoping that's possible because I plan on sticking to 1080 for awhile. Rendering video is a task that is easy to break up into different threads so an i7 would beat your i5 for it (20% gains for highly threaded tasks is normal). If you're considering a CPU swap then the best your board could handle is an i7-4790K which would be the fastest clock speed CPU for that socket type. It's a -K but you won't be overclocking, it's clocked to 4ghz/4.4ghz turbo out of the box which is pretty great (faster than any other CPU Intel has that I'm aware of). The CPU is around $300, however. If you also need a video card the 970 is good for high to ultra 1080 at 60fps with current games. The main downside to it is that it's now one generation old, which is why it's down in the $200 range (while this is normal price for a used one, there was a new one for sale that low in the last week, so there may be other sales since manufacturers are now trying to get rid of old stock). The 1070 is a better card by a good amount but it's around $400 and is a bit overkill for 1080 resolution currently unless you're going for higher refresh rates. That said, new games will likely require more video card power in the next few years so if you're planning to use it for a while the 1070 may be a safer bet. I can't tell the future of game performance and what you'll be playing so I can't say which is the best choice for your uses. Rendering video could also be done on a secondary machine if you're game to really throw money at the problem (and the time savings would probably be worth considering) but that's a whole separate subject where we'd be looking at the most cores and ram for the buck instead of just trying to maximize what you have now.
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Jul 5, 2016 09:52
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Thanks guys. I'll wait a bit for 1070s to come into stock and hopefully pick one up for sub $400. What's the consensus on used GPUs btw? Also are there any specific brands you'd recommend? I imagine Asus and Gigabyte are safe bets?
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Jul 5, 2016 09:59
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A used GPU would be fine if it's still in its warranty period and has a transferable warranty. EVGA will let you RMA a second hand card, so they're the #1 choice, but make sure to avoid their ACX 2.0 GTX 970s as they have a bad cooler - I believe "ACX 2.0+" is the fixed version. I did a bit of research and it looks like MSI and Gigabyte might let you RMA cards based on serial number, while ASUS would tell you to send it back to the retailer it was originally bought from.
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Jul 5, 2016 10:20
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Bleh Maestro posted:Try taking out the GPU and booting from the motherboards onboard video if you haven't tried that yet. I don't think you should be poking anything on the mobo while it's on. I'm going to look at the manual real quick. There's a chance it is a bad batch of RAM, unlikely but that's probably where I'd start first. I'm appreciating all of your help on this, and I've finally made some process. If I removed he GPU, I can now boot the computer into BIOS. I don't know whether this was from reseating the ram for the 1000th time or just removing the graphics card. Two other things I've noticed though - the optical drive is not responding which is going to make installation impossible, and obviously I don't know whether the GPU is broken or taking too much power, as it seems odd that it was showing a RAM Fault light Also, curiously there were no beeps when it loads up, just goes straight into the BIOS screen, so I don't know whether that means I've not got the sound installed properly. What's the best point of call firstly in regards to tyring to fix the optical drive and hard drive. Do I have to configure something through BIOS, or should the optical drive open up straight away just from pressing the power button if it was wired correctly?
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Jul 5, 2016 11:04
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Is the performance increase from an i5 4670K to an i7 6700K worth investing in a new build. According to benchmarks, it's roughly a 25% increase but I don't think that takes into account other components like being able to clock much faster RAM etc... Computer is used for streaming from a console capture card, recording and cutting together video in Adobe Premiere and occasionally some lightweight gaming.
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Jul 5, 2016 12:16
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Weasling Weasel posted:I'm appreciating all of your help on this, and I've finally made some process. If I removed he GPU, I can now boot the computer into BIOS. I don't know whether this was from reseating the ram for the 1000th time or just removing the graphics card. Two other things I've noticed though - the optical drive is not responding which is going to make installation impossible, and obviously I don't know whether the GPU is broken or taking too much power, as it seems odd that it was showing a RAM Fault light Also, curiously there were no beeps when it loads up, just goes straight into the BIOS screen, so I don't know whether that means I've not got the sound installed properly. What's the best point of call firstly in regards to tyring to fix the optical drive and hard drive. Do I have to configure something through BIOS, or should the optical drive open up straight away just from pressing the power button if it was wired correctly? If you've gotten into BIOS you should be good to go. Put windows on a USB stick and boot to that.
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Jul 5, 2016 12:40
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karn1635 posted:Is the performance increase from an i5 4670K to an i7 6700K worth investing in a new build. According to benchmarks, it's roughly a 25% increase but I don't think that takes into account other components like being able to clock much faster RAM etc... Answered my own question. Just going to get faster RAM and a new PSU to replace my old lovely failing one. Not currently worth the investment.
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Jul 5, 2016 14:26
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Where is a good place to actually buy cablemod cables in the US? Newegg doesn't have poo poo despite being listed as a reseller. Performance-PCs has them but I can't figure out how to mix and match colors and also they're expensive as poo poo. I was thinking I'd do a color-coded wiring though. Red for motherboard cables, blue for sata devices, green for video card. It's totally unnecessary - you know it's a video card plug from the way it's plugged into the video card - but I think it might look nice. I'm not really sure. Creativity is not my strong point, or design of any sort. I'm a web developer by the way. And I was the only developer on my last team who wasn't color blind.
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Jul 5, 2016 21:11
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Bass Bottles posted:I'm a long time Mac user and console gamer who has been looking into getting a gaming PC for the first time. My hopes and dreams are: quiet, able to run Xbox One "exclusives" and crazy indie games, can be placed horizontally in my media center. I'm not looking for top end visuals, just 1080p/60fps would be nice.... I know others are helping you with suggestions but this sounds fun so I wanted to take a crack too. Have a look a this, it's "Goonbox One" from the op with a different case: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($117.76 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock H110M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($69.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Crucial 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($31.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($154.85 @ Amazon) Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 960 4GB Video Card ($199.99 @ Amazon) Case: Fractal Design Node 202 HTPC Case w/450W Power Supply ($139.99 @ Amazon) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($85.95 @ Amazon) Total: $800.51 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-05 20:27 EDT-0400 Some important notes:
wash bucket fucked around with this message at 01:28 on Jul 6, 2016 |
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Jul 5, 2016 23:44
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McCracAttack posted:I know others are helping you with suggestions but this sounds fun so I wanted to take a crack too. Have a look a this, it's "Goonbox One" from the op with a different case: Hey cool I have this case. If you decide to go with this build, absolutely do not use a non-blower style card. It'll get too hot and it'll also make the rest of your computer hot.
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Jul 6, 2016 00:41
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I'm looking to build my brother's computer and I'm wondering about motherboards. He'll need 4 slots, so ITX is out, but he's certainly never going to overclock or SLI. So, I figure if there's a go-to motherboard with only one graphics card slot and no overclocking emphasis that would be great. I'm looking at getting him an i7 too, because he wants it to last as long as possible but he doesn't want to OC, so I figure getting him a modern one in the LGA1151 socket is best.
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Jul 6, 2016 01:01
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McCracAttack posted:I know others are helping you with suggestions but this sounds fun so I wanted to take a crack too. Have a look a this, it's "Goonbox One" from the op with a different case: Wow, awesome, thanks! Couple questions: Will this be able to run first party Microsoft Studios games (Forza Horizon 3, Gears of War, etc)? I don't care about max settings, I'd be happy with medium at like 900p/60fps, probably. I've heard scary things about the RX 480. Is there a less-budget card you'd recommend over this one, if I even need to go higher for my purposes? My budget is flexible, but I have very little idea what performance to expect from anything. Thank you for doing this up, I thought I was being obnoxious coming here without even a partial list. WHAT A GOOD DOG posted:Hey cool I have this case. If you decide to go with this build, absolutely do not use a non-blower style card. It'll get too hot and it'll also make the rest of your computer hot. Does this mean cards with rear-facing fans? Are those uncommon to the point where my upgrade paths would be limited?
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Jul 6, 2016 01:18
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Bass Bottles posted:
I mean you need to get a reference-style blower cards that look like this: click, though not necessarily THAT card. You'll notice it only has the one fan which is an intake fan: this is the blower style (called the reference style) of graphics card. It sucks in air through that fan, runs the air across the heatsink and the inside of the card, and exhausts the heat outside of the case. The GPU area in the Node 202 is very small and cramped so you can't get good enough airflow in an open-air cooler design on the graphics card (like this).
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Jul 6, 2016 01:28
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WHAT A GOOD DOG posted:Hey cool I have this case. If you decide to go with this build, absolutely do not use a non-blower style card. It'll get too hot and it'll also make the rest of your computer hot. Good point. I've updated the list with a blower style 960 for not much more.
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Jul 6, 2016 01:29
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Bass Bottles posted:I've heard scary things about the RX 480. Is there a less-budget card you'd recommend over this one, if I even need to go higher for my purposes? My budget is flexible, but I have very little idea what performance to expect from anything. I've updated the list with a slightly better blower style card per WHAT A GOOD DOG's suggestion. If you'll tell me your budget I'm sure we can make all your dreams come true. Are you willing to drop $1,000?
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Jul 6, 2016 01:34
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Bass Bottles posted:Wow, awesome, thanks! The RX 480 is fine, as long as you don't have a super cheap-poo poo motherboard, and will probably be fine even so soon with an update. That said, the closest card would be a used GTX 970 if you don't mind buying an end-of-availability card. Brand new, you could wait for the GTX 1060, or jump up to 400-450 USD and get a 1070. If you don't mind stepping down from solid 1080p performance on Ultra settings, you can wait for the RX 470 instead. This will be around 170 USD. This is general advice, I didn't see what your original use case was.
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Jul 6, 2016 01:43
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Just because I'm having fun here's a nicer Gaming HTPC. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.99 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L9i 57.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($42.34 @ Newegg) Motherboard: ASRock H110M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($69.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Crucial 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($54.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($154.85 @ Amazon) Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB Video Card ($259.99 @ Amazon) Case: Fractal Design Node 202 HTPC Case ($79.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Corsair SF 600W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply ($119.99 @ Amazon) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($85.95 @ Amazon) Total: $1068.07 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-05 21:37 EDT-0400 Like PerrineClostermann mentioned that GTX 970 very recently became a last gen card. But it was THE last gen "sweet spot" card. It's been replaced by the GTX 1070 but that's had a rocky launch with high prices and spotty availability. You mentioned being able to play 1st party Microsoft games earlier like Fortza and Gears. The 970 generally hits 1080p 60fps with high settings on games like those without breaking a sweat. I might have gone overboard on the power supply but that's not an area where you want to cut things close. Others may feel differently. Also, the extra CPU cooler is a bit of a luxury here; feel free to drop it. The i5 comes with a cooler in the box but it might get a touch noisy in this smaller case. Speaking of noise, that blower-style video card is probably going to be loud but there's not much we can do about that in such a small case. I doubt it would be much worse than a PS4 on a bad day. Full disclose, I've never actually built a small form factor PC so I'd run this by someone in that thread as a sanity check.
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Jul 6, 2016 02:38
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Is Amazon Prime day going to have any effect on some of the prices going around? Would it be worthwhile to wait until the 12th to buy something?
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Jul 6, 2016 02:44
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McCracAttack posted:Just because I'm having fun here's a nicer Gaming HTPC. Awesome, thanks! I'll definitely take some time to consider my options and run these by other places to see if they have some advice on small form factor PCs.
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Jul 6, 2016 02:46
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Fall Sick and Die posted:Is Amazon Prime day going to have any effect on some of the prices going around? Would it be worthwhile to wait until the 12th to buy something? The last Prime Day was a tarted-up yard sale to clear junk out of their warehouses. I wouldn't hold my breath.
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Jul 6, 2016 02:55
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Been lurking for a bit and reading about building a PC, but the whole process seems pretty overwhelming. I've checked out some build guides on PC part picker and logical increments, but I feel like I'm still making this a lot more expensive than it needs to be. The long and short of it is that my 2012 Samsung laptop isn't cutting the mustard anymore, and if I even want to consider VR stuff down the line if it takes off, then I'm gonna need a proper rig. Anyone with some more experience care to weigh in on this build for gaming and streaming? PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($238.99 @ SuperBiiz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D14 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($72.29 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($150.99 @ SuperBiiz) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($59.88 @ OutletPC) Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($199.89 @ OutletPC) Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($65.89 @ OutletPC) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($429.99 @ SuperBiiz) Case: Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.99 @ SuperBiiz) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($87.98 @ Newegg) Optical Drive: LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($46.85 @ OutletPC) Wireless Network Adapter: Asus PCE-AC68 PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter ($92.96 @ Amazon) Total: $1555.70 Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-05 21:44 EDT-0400 From what I've gathered, I'm not finding many advantages to shelling out more for an i7 core vs. an i5 core, and I'm trying to avoid taking the plunge into older tech like the 980 cards. I think I'm good on the power supply above unless I do something like add a second card, but that's getting way ahead here. If there's anything particularly boneheaded here to make upgrading a pain in the rear end (lovely RAM, PSU, etc.) feel free to point it out.
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Jul 6, 2016 02:57
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Mostly looks good to me. A few things that pop out: - For the SSD, get an 850 EVO instead of an 840 Pro. Newer, cheaper, and better performing. The lifetime isn't as good but we're talking "one decade instead of two, if used daily" territory. - For the case, keep in mind that there is a newer Define R5 model. Not sure what the difference is, so maybe the R4 is a better deal. - I believe people on this forum have mentioned that SuperBiiz and OutletPC aren't reputable dealers so you might have issues getting service if you have problems with items bought from them. I don't have personal experience or knowledge of specifics though.
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Jul 6, 2016 03:14
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WHAT A GOOD DOG posted:I'm looking to build my brother's computer and I'm wondering about motherboards. He'll need 4 slots, so ITX is out, but he's certainly never going to overclock or SLI. So, I figure if there's a go-to motherboard with only one graphics card slot and no overclocking emphasis that would be great. I'm looking at getting him an i7 too, because he wants it to last as long as possible but he doesn't want to OC, so I figure getting him a modern one in the LGA1151 socket is best. Anyone? Motherboard quality is a very.. fluid concept.
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Jul 6, 2016 03:57
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Country: US Use: Gaming Budget: ~500-600 for replacement parts, could be flexible I have an old rig I put together several years ago that was holding up just fine with periodic upgrades. For whatever reason it's laid dormant the past two years and now is unable to keep on for more than few minutes without crashing. I'm replacing the HDs with SSDs, but want to get the whole thing up to speed so I can play some newer games, like Fallout 4. Here's my current setup: CPU Intel Core i5 750 @ 2.67GHz RAM 12.0GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 668MHz (9-9-9-24) Motherboard ASUSTeK Computer INC. P7P55D EVO (LGA1156) Graphics ASUS VH236H (1920x1080@60Hz) 512MB NVIDIA GeForce 9800 GTX+ (EVGA) Storage Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive 931GB Western Digital WDC WD1002FAEX-00Z3A0 ATA Device (SATA) 931GB Western Digital WD My Book 3.0 1123 USB Device (USB (SATA)) Optical Drives NEC DVD_RW ND-3540A ATA Device Case Antec Sonata II (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129155) Power Cooler Master 500W (https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-eXtreme-Supply-RS500-PCARD3-US/dp/B001G0WPLK) Monitor ASUS VH236H (https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-VH236H-23-Inch-Full-HD-Monitor/dp/B002453K5G) I think the RAM and Storage are pretty salvageable (the SSD is brand new), and I'm hoping the PSU is as well, since it's only a few years old. Below are some parts I pulled from the Goonbox and Value Gamer. Will it pretty much get me where I want to be? Any suggestions for a better case? Also, the combination CPU/motherboard I got had the cooler attached, so i'm guessing I need something there, too. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($215.99 @ SuperBiiz) Motherboard: ASRock H110M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($67.99 @ SuperBiiz) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($59.88 @ OutletPC) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($92.00 @ Amazon) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB Video Card ($294.25 @ Amazon) Total: $730.11 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-06 00:10 EDT-0400
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Jul 6, 2016 05:12
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