|
GobiasIndustries posted:For bulk storage, is the WD Red the best go-to still? I'm looking to buy a handful of 6tb drives. You may want to ask that in the Storage Megathread. IIRC, WD Reds are decent but the best stuff is the HGST NAS stuff.
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2016 02:03
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 28, 2024 21:00 |
|
|
My wife wants me to build her a box to play WoW on. I can get a 2500k and an Intel Z77 board for about $180 off eBay. Good idea? Bad idea? How are Intel boards generally regarded?
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2016 04:51
|
|
|
hamsystem posted:My wife wants me to build her a box to play WoW on. I can get a 2500k and an Intel Z77 board for about $180 off eBay. Good idea? Bad idea? How are Intel boards generally regarded? If she just wants to play WoW, buy a Skull Canyon NUC or something - that'd even be overkill. You'll win husband points for buying her something 'tiny and cool,' though. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 05:26 on Aug 1, 2016 |
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2016 05:18
|
|
|
LegalPad posted:Hey guys. I'm looking for a new PC but I don't know anything about computer hardware. I was using a 5+ year old pre-built HP6000 with a crappy video card and I feel like I'm long due for an upgrade. What is your PC going to be used for, gaming? If so what resolution are you playing at?
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2016 05:56
|
|
|
In regards to the OP above, here's Tom's $662 PC to give you some idea of what ~$700 would buy you (keep in mind it's Q1 '16): http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/q1-2016-system-builder-marathon-662-dollar-budget-pc,4523.html The AMD RX470 would be a better card than the 2GB 950, and you could get a respectable 250GB SSD for $70 during a sale and use your old hard drive for storage. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 06:24 on Aug 1, 2016 |
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2016 06:21
|
|
|
I Greyhound posted:I am winding up to build my first PC, and would love a sanity check. I'm looking at a similar build for the near future with the 6600k and the same motherboard and decided to go with the Noctua NH-D14 instead of the NH-U12S because the U12S only comes with one fan. You have to buy the other one separately if you want to get the most out of it and that's about an extra $20, while the NH-D14 comes with both and is only $72.65 on newegg currently and cools slightly better. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608018 Regrettable fucked around with this message at 07:54 on Aug 1, 2016 |
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2016 07:44
|
|
|
BIG HEADLINE posted:In regards to the OP above, here's Tom's $662 PC to give you some idea of what ~$700 would buy you (keep in mind it's Q1 '16): http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/q1-2016-system-builder-marathon-662-dollar-budget-pc,4523.html I just spent about $450 for the 6500, mobo, 16GB RAM, and a fancy SFX PSU. Bought a case a while ago and using an old SSD to save some more money. 8GB RAM would probably be fine, but for ~$30 difference I figured I might as well go 16GB. About the same difference with the PSU, it's going in a tiny case so I just paid up to not deal with a big PSU in there. ...and no GPU yet cause I'm being super cheap and gonna try the integrated graphics first. But I'll probably get that RX 470 eventually, yay budget cards 
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2016 08:28
|
|
|
Hey goons. Built my first ever PC all by myself! (Well, maybe not first ever since I've pretty much replaced/installed every single component possible in other lovely dell boxes over the years but still). I have some concerns on cooling, airflow, and cable management with this build. Here is the build: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($344.99 @ SuperBiiz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L9x65 33.8 CFM CPU Cooler ($47.90 @ Newegg) Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VIII GENE Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($206.99 @ SuperBiiz) Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($73.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($159.88 @ OutletPC) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB G1 Gaming Video Card ($429.99 @ B&H) Case: Lian-Li PC-O6SX HTPC Case ($297.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair RMx 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($103.02 @ Amazon) Total: $1664.75 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-01 04:43 EDT-0400 *Also there is a rear case fan not included above. Overall, the build was pretty simple and only took me ~2-3 hours to complete. Everyone I spoke with told me that it was loving retarded to do this as a first build and that it would be way too complicated, but it really wasn't that bad. Here is a pic of the build:  ]Cooling setup: a)3 exhaust fans on the top of the case that came with the case (not shown in pic) b) 1 intake fan on the back of the case that blows onto the underside of the mobo where the cpu is. c) Noctua cpu fan is blowing into the radiator d) 3 GPU exhaust fans --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Questions/Concerns: Running some burn in tests I've been getting some pretty high cpu temp numbers. When running Prime95, the cpu was hitting 92-94C easily. With Folding At Home, the cpu was hitting the upper 70s to low 80s. I did a dumb thing and ran Prime95 + FoldingAtHome + 3 Nvidia GPU tech demos + 2 4k youtube videos all at the same time and got the CPU temp up to 99-100C and kept it there for ~30min. The mouse cursor was stuttering, the sound was stuttering, but the system surprisingly did not crash or catch on fire. Ambient temps seem good with the cpu running at 25-28C. When not under load with ~7 chrome tabs open, cpu temps are in the 28-33C area. CPU temps with Doom on ultra using the vulcan API stayed in the 40s-50s. CPU temps with BF4 on ultra were mostly in the 40s-50s with weird spikes to the mid 60s on 1 or 2 cores that last 2-3 sec before going back to 40-50. Is this good? (other than being a complete dumbass and running prime+folding at the same time) Also, how is my cable management? It's not the best, but I'm not sure if rerouting all the crap on the bottom left under the chasis at this point is going to substantially make a difference in temps. And yes I realize a fan cable touching the cpu fan that spans across the mobo looks really jenki. Is there really anything I can do at this point to improve temperatures? When I was applying thermal paste to the cpu, I followed my friend's advice and applied a very thin layer across the entire cpu. When mounting the radiator, I placed it on the cpu and had to briefly pull it off and put it back on because I did not have the radiator perfectly aligned with the mobo mounting bracket. Could this have potentially caused some air pockets to form in the thermal paste? Any opinions on the 3 upper case fans? Should I keep them as exhaust fans or make them intake fans? There is a tempered glass case panel that came with this thing (not shown). If I put it on, temps tend to increase by ~10-12C across the board probably due to the cpu fan having little air to intake, and the gpu exhaust fans basically shooting air directly at the glass panel which then reflects back onto the gpu. I'm thinking about getting a custom piece of plexiglass made with cutouts for the cpu fan and gpu fans so I never run into this problem but then again, a better cooling configuration may be a better option. With RL performance in games, applications, etc. the system has been awesome and I'm really happy with it. Just want to make sure there's nothing else I can do to substantially decrease temps aside from water cooling and replacing the stock top 3 case fans with something aftermarket. Thanks all Avalanche fucked around with this message at 10:41 on Aug 1, 2016 |
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2016 10:10
|
|
|
E: Forgot I wasn't on the last page. Ignore.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2016 10:38
|
|
|
Avalanche posted:Hey goons. Build my first ever PC all by myself! (Well, maybe not first ever since I've pretty much replaced/installed every single component possible in other lovely dell boxes over the years but still). I have some concerns on cooling, airflow, and cable management with this build. Since you pulled the heatsink off the CPU after pushing it down on the thermal paste you might want to reapply it but gererally your temps sound normal. Prime95 and Intel Burn Test and other utils like that intentionally use instructions that cause the CPU to heat up way beyond normal usage temps. The reason everything got all lovely when you ran everything at once is that your CPU clocked itself down to like 800mhz or something to save itself from burning to death at 99C (don't do this). Your temps seem fine otherwise, I'd probably leave it alone but maybe repasting the CPU heatsink just in case you got some air bubbles trapped in the paste. To repaste it use some high % rubbing alcohol and low lint products (coffee filters or good quality paper towels or something) to wipe/roll off the old paste from the heatsink and CPU. Reapply your thermal paste as a pea sized dot in the middle then put the heatsink back down and don't move it except from very slight side to side or very small rotations just to get it to line up. This may smush the paste around a little but don't pick it back up. Picking it up makes the paste sort of peel off both sides and putting it back down afterwards can cause bubbles which can make spots of poor thermal conductivity. As for fan positioning and the side panel it seems like a weird case that's got a kind of unique layout so the general rules may not apply. For a regular case you pull air in from the bottom/front/side and out the top/back. You also shoot for more air intake than output to keep a slight positive pressure inside the case so that dust won't clog up every opening in the case. With that case I'm not sure how you'd achieve that, especially if all of the fans are on the top. It seems like, based on the diagrams on newegg, you're using it as intended: 
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2016 10:51
|
|
|
Avalanche posted:Hey goons. Built my first ever PC all by myself! (Well, maybe not first ever since I've pretty much replaced/installed every single component possible in other lovely dell boxes over the years but still). I have some concerns on cooling, airflow, and cable management with this build. Don't worry about temps using Prime95. Actually, don't use it at all. Use something like IntelBurnTest or Handbrake. The newest versions of Prime95 use fancy new instruction sets that basically force the last few generations of Intel CPU to rev up voltage too high. I might be wrong on the reason why, but that is basically the gist of it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2016 10:54
|
|
|
Thanks for the responses guys. I just did the intel burn test on "standard" and got core temps in the mid-high 90s that would drop down back to 50C in-between the 10 trials. Time to re-apply thermal paste? Also my buddy who is very into building computers is against the "pea sized dot" method of applying thermal paste if your goal is to eventually overclock the system. His rationale is that moving the radiator from side to side to spread the paste can cause air pockets to form. He prefers applying a very very VERY thin layer with a spreader over the entirety of the cpu with the added benefit of getting complete coverage of the cpu with paste instead of just a localized region but emphasizes the method is worthless if the layer of paste if not as thin as possible. Is he wrong or just gets a massive boner from applying thermal paste perfectly? Avalanche fucked around with this message at 11:34 on Aug 1, 2016 |
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2016 11:22
|
|
|
Avalanche posted:Thanks for the responses guys. It really doesn't matter that much, it's kind of a nerdy "I know best because I do it this way" thing. There's been a lot of testing and from what I saw the thin line seems to be the best coverage of the core under the heatspreader (I think this was for Haswell specifically, not sure where you're aiming for under the heatspreader on skylake), the pea is normal because it gets you a big circle that covers the core. I believe, however, that spreading it yourself can introduce bubbles because you can't necessarily get it completely flat and they don't mill the bottom of the heatsink completely flat, so letting it squeeze out like from a pea or line should fill in any tiny gaps more completely than pushing them onto a flat surface of paste. But you can just do what you want, there won't be a significant difference in temps as long as you don't pick it up after you put it down.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2016 11:49
|
|
|
I cannot get the mini drive bay out of my node 202 case. The screw was in REALLY tight and I am afraid I may have stripped it. HOW TO PROCEED...?? Edit: Nevermind, got it Bass Bottles fucked around with this message at 14:14 on Aug 1, 2016 |
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2016 13:46
|
|
|
For the dot/line/x method, those methods are good because you don't need to manually smooth the paste, it pumps out to cover the heat spreader naturally when you put the thing in place and attach it tightly. Since it's all coming from one source there's no way to trap air and get bubbles. Manually spreading it can allow bubbles because it isn't micrometer smooth and it is possible air from a low point could get trapped because the higher points around it already have contact.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2016 14:11
|
|
|
BIG HEADLINE posted:If she just wants to play WoW, buy a Skull Canyon NUC or something - that'd even be overkill. I'm gonna say that this is maybe not a great idea, depending on what resolution she plays at and how much she cares about playing on settings above minimum. The system requirements for WoW go up a bit every expansion and while it will be quite playable on integrated graphics using low settings, discrete graphics will make a large difference. I still am only able to go up to 7/10 detail at 4K before it starts to lag and I'm running it on a 1060. On the topic of the Corsair CX power supplies mentioned, there are definitely some newer models that have addressed some of the concerns in that review. I picked up a CX450M recently in part because I noticed that the temperature rating had improved to 40C from the anemic 25C on the 430M. I haven't seen any new reviews to dig into the details on them yet though.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2016 14:15
|
|
|
That video in the OP recommends using rubbing alcohol on the CPU before applying the thermal paste and cooler. It also recommends nail polish remover if there is a stock TIM that you want to remove. Can I use the nail polish remover just for the cleaning part?
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2016 14:51
|
|
|
MaxxBot posted:What is your PC going to be used for, gaming? If so what resolution are you playing at? My bad, I definitely should have carefully read through the OP. Not specifically gaming, but I definitely want something that can play newer games on at least medium'ish settings, even if I have to lower the resolution from 1080. My main problem is temporary tight funds. I wouldn't even mind getting a super cheap garbage video card to hold me over for a few paychecks.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2016 15:18
|
|
|
I'm so annoyed with Microsoft right now. I replaced my motherboard, CPU, and RAM last Thursday and reinstalled windows 10 from scratch. Over the weekend it started nagging me to activate (I did put my old windows 8 product key in when I installed) and when I enter my product key it says it's being used on another PC. I guess all the hardware changes gave me a new hardware ID. So I follow the activation instructions by calling microsoft. The phone activation system gives me the opportunity to enter the number in on my phone in a web browser instead of having to use the touch-tone system. I take advantage and of course it doesn't work. At the end of the process it offers to call me back, and does. It says it's connecting me to support, then after a few seconds: "We're sorry, your call can not be completed at this time." Ugh. So I hop online and go to microsoft chat based support. It says there are 300 people ahead of me in line. This was at about 10:30 mountain time on Friday night. At 11:50 i was finally 1st in line. My browser sat on that window until 12:27 telling me I was #1 in line. I was tired so I went to bed. When I woke up it was still sitting there at #1 in line. So I tried the automated phone system again. When it tried to call me back I had the same result. So I called again and used the touch tone system instead and when it failed it actually connected me to a tech support guy. Unfortunately they didn't understand the problem so said they had to escalate and someone would call me back between 10 and noon on sunday. Guess who never called? So I tried the touch tone system again last evening. The tech support guy this time said he'd connect me to the "answer desk." After it transferred: "Sorry, we are now closed. Please call back during business hours." So I called back this morning and actually got to the answer desk. Halfway through the call the fire alarm in my apartment building went off. I'd rather die in a fire than leave this unresolved. I'm still on hold.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2016 15:41
|
|
|
LegalPad posted:My bad, I definitely should have carefully read through the OP. Here's something to look at: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($110.99 @ SuperBiiz) Motherboard: MSI B150M Pro-VD Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($66.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Crucial 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($33.98 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($91.49 @ OutletPC) Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($29.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($46.99 @ SuperBiiz) Video Card: RX 470 4 GB ($160.00) Total: $540.42 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-01 10:31 EDT-0400 The RX 470 isn't out for another week, but it probably won't cost much more than that (MSRP for the 4GB version is $150) and should do medium-high settings at 1080p for new games. The i3 is no slouch in most games and saves you a good amount of cash. Alternatives include: - dropping down to an RX 460 (coming out in two weeks, $100-$120, should be low end but not abysmal) - switching the SSD for an HDD (not recommended but if you want to save some money now and could use the extra storage space it's an option) - going up to an i5-6500 and buying a GPU later (new CPUs offer comparatively unimpressive gains nowadays so it's a decent plan to buy a beefier one now and stick with it longer) HMS Boromir fucked around with this message at 15:53 on Aug 1, 2016 |
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2016 15:45
|
|
|
To further expand on the wife's WoW computer: she's currently using a laptop with integrated graphics, and while it's mostly playable at low settings, she wants something to hook up to the TV and will run everything med-high. Wow is actually a little demanding at higher settings these days but we're trying to not spend a ton. I may end up going with a newer i3 and maybe a 960 since they're pretty cheap now. I still play on an i5 760 and a 560ti and it runs medium pretty ok. I'll be doing a new build around tax time probably.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2016 15:52
|
|
|
I'm trying to install my CPU into an ASUS B150i Motherboard, but it has this extra piece of plastic that is giving me trouble. It's not the protective shield you're supposed to remove, it's more like a tiny plastic dock for the CPU to sit it. It's supposed to snap into place but I can't get it to. Touching the bottom of the CPU is forbidden, right? This stupid thing just won't snap.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2016 16:24
|
|
|
Bass Bottles posted:I'm trying to install my CPU into an ASUS B150i Motherboard, but it has this extra piece of plastic that is giving me trouble. The CPU inserter tool is a bit flexible. When I used mine I flexed the frame of the tool around the CPU. Make sure the little arrow on the CPU is in the same corner as the arrow on the tool.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2016 16:41
|
|
|
Bass Bottles posted:I'm trying to install my CPU into an ASUS B150i Motherboard, but it has this extra piece of plastic that is giving me trouble. You just lie it in there and close the top with the handle, it doesn't snap into anything. Make sure it's oriented the right way (there's a gold corner that points at an arrow usually). The mechanism you close it with holds the CPU down with the amount of pressure it needs to contact the pins in the socket well. Don't touch the pins or the bottom of the CPU.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2016 16:42
|
|
|
Avalanche posted:Also my buddy who is very into building computers is against the "pea sized dot" method of applying thermal paste if your goal is to eventually overclock the system. https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Thermal-Paste-Application-Techniques-170/ Question for myself, how careful do I have to be about too much and squeezing out? Last time I remember putting thermal paste on anything was a bare die rather than a heat spreader. LegalPad posted:My bad, I definitely should have carefully read through the OP.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2016 16:44
|
|
|
hamsystem posted:To further expand on the wife's WoW computer: she's currently using a laptop with integrated graphics, and while it's mostly playable at low settings, she wants something to hook up to the TV and will run everything med-high. Wow is actually a little demanding at higher settings these days but we're trying to not spend a ton. I may end up going with a newer i3 and maybe a 960 since they're pretty cheap now. I still play on an i5 760 and a 560ti and it runs medium pretty ok. I'll be doing a new build around tax time probably. 960's not so great value (if you're in this market, I'd wait for the RX470), and I'd personally rather have the 2500K (with a small OC) than a newer i3. Some games will just flat out work better with 4 actual cores.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2016 16:53
|
|
|
In the USA. Primarly using the system for office work. Landscape design (CAD) and some editing. Trying to keep it under 1000. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: AMD FX-6300 3.5GHz 6-Core Processor ($98.88 @ OutletPC) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.49 @ SuperBiiz) Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste ($5.95 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI 970 GAMING ATX AM3+ Motherboard ($87.98 @ B&H) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($66.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Seagate 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive ($69.88 @ OutletPC) Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon RX 480 8GB Video Card ($239.99 @ SuperBiiz) Case: Rosewill BlackHawk ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Rosewill Hive 650W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($64.99 @ Amazon) Monitor: Acer H226HQLbid 21.5" 60Hz Monitor ($99.99 @ Newegg) Monitor: Acer H226HQLbid 21.5" 60Hz Monitor ($99.99 @ Newegg) Keyboard: Logitech K120 Wired Standard Keyboard ($11.88 @ OutletPC) Mouse: Gigabyte GM-M6800 Wired Optical Mouse ($13.98 @ OutletPC) Total: $969.98 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-01 12:22 EDT-0400 Any tips or advice are greatly appreciated! First build (for my boss!)
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2016 17:22
|
|
|
I bought the goon-approved value system around the time I registered my forums account and it's been performing great but starting to show its age a bit. I'm using the i53570K, an nvida 670, and 8GB of RAM. I just play games on 1080p pretty much. This will run Overwatch and Total Warhammer on Mediumish with no issues but I'd like to push it a little. What should I upgrade first, and to what?
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2016 20:18
|
|
|
Sharzak posted:I bought the goon-approved value system around the time I registered my forums account and it's been performing great but starting to show its age a bit. I'm using the i53570K, an nvida 670, and 8GB of RAM. I just play games on 1080p pretty much. This will run Overwatch and Total Warhammer on Mediumish with no issues but I'd like to push it a little. What should I upgrade first, and to what? Just buy a (non-reference) RX 480 or 1060. That should get you 1080p/60 on Ultra without too many issues. Stick a CPU cooler and overclock the CPU if you haven't already. Also, if you don't have one, get an SSD.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2016 20:22
|
|
|
mmkay posted:Just buy a (non-reference) RX 480 or 1060. That should get you 1080p/60 on Ultra without too many issues. Stick a CPU cooler and overclock the CPU if you haven't already. Also, if you don't have one, get an SSD. And in this order specifically, in case there was any confusion. Upgrading the video card will give you a big performance increase, CPU will be small but cheap, and SSD is very nice to have but won't likely affect your frame rates.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2016 20:36
|
|
|
'eyyy, currently on a 2500k@4.3, 8GB RAM, and a GTX1080 for a gaming PC at 1440p@106hz (QNIX). My other 8 gigs of RAM dying, the 2500k choking out sometimes when trying to stay above 90fps, VR, and Intel resale value has me wanting to replace the CPU/Mobo/RAM. I want more stable gaming performance, but also I've had big problems now with trying to throw even YouTube on the other monitor while playing Elite and such with the CPU sitting at 100% post-GPU-upgrade and the "low" RAM amount. If a hundred bucks isn't a huge deal figuring this'll likely last another few years and I want to be able to throw Netflix or whatever on while playing games without worry, is a 6600k good enough or would bumping up to a 6700k help out for the YT/Netflix/Twitch stuff? Side option of Micro Center having the 5820k for the same price as the 6700k but only more expensive motherboards ($180+) available. No plans for SLI and probably won't be doing my own streaming or production/encoding apps etc. I appreciate any words of wisdom (for adding fuel to the upgrade itch).
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2016 22:00
|
|
|
A thing that might be of interest to this thread:Arstechnica posted:Nvidia offers $30 to GTX 970 customers in class action lawsuit over RAM I built out a GTX 970 desktop in a previous thread incarnation. I know it's not the current tech.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2016 22:46
|
|
|
18 Character Limit posted:A thing that might be of interest to this thread: The GPU thread is going crazy because several posters bought more than 3 GTX 970s for various reasons. People have also reported getting Amazon to accept their 2 year old GPU at full retail MSRP as a return, which is unscrupulous but probably the best way to wheedle this lawsuit for personal gain.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2016 23:01
|
|
|
Twerk from Home posted:The GPU thread is going crazy because several posters bought more than 3 GTX 970s for various reasons. People have also reported getting Amazon to accept their 2 year old GPU at full retail MSRP as a return, which is unscrupulous but probably the best way to wheedle this lawsuit for personal gain. I only learned about it as newegg sent out a bulk email. Which honestly makes me feel better about newegg.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2016 02:25
|
|
|
Hey guys I've been reading the thread for a WHILE now, and I'm ready for purchase but have no idea how to build. What country are you in? United States What are you using the system for? Gaming, graphic design, potentially some light video editing and 3d rendering What's your budget? We usually specify for just the computer itself (plus Windows), but if you also need monitor/mouse/whatever, just say so. 1200-1400USD~ unless something that can change my experience drastically is above the price range, out of the basics, windows 10 is the thing i need If you’re doing professional work, what software do you need to use? What’s your typical project size and complexity? If you use multiple pieces of software, what’s your workflow? adobe suite generally, potentially c4d If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? How fancy do you want your graphics, from “it runs” to “Ultra preset as fast as possible”? I feel pretty comfortable going with a 1070, if you have a recommendation of which 3rd party's card I should aim for please let me know Not going to overclock not knowledgeable enough yet I can't tell if I need an i7 but people recommend it for faster rendering times with 3d programs. If it's the difference between hours and minutes, than yeah I'm in. If not meh 16 GB ram (is 32 a thing?) Don't care if case i huge just want something cool/quiet temperature wise seems like everyone is going for the samsung + a secondary drive. eh either would be fine Gaming wise, yeah I'll play lots of stuff. If any other info would help let me know. SectumSempra fucked around with this message at 07:13 on Aug 2, 2016 |
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2016 07:11
|
|
|
FNAcotton posted:In the USA. Primarly using the system for office work. Landscape design (CAD) and some editing. Trying to keep it under 1000. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.99 @ SuperBiiz) Motherboard: MSI B150M Pro-VD Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($64.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Crucial 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($59.98 @ OutletPC) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($89.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.49 @ OutletPC) Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon RX 480 8GB Video Card ($239.99 @ SuperBiiz) Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($29.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Rosewill 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($44.99 @ Newegg) Monitor: Acer H226HQLbid 21.5" 60Hz Monitor ($99.99 @ Newegg) Monitor: Acer H226HQLbid 21.5" 60Hz Monitor ($99.99 @ Newegg) Keyboard: Logitech K120 Wired Standard Keyboard ($11.88 @ OutletPC) Mouse: Gigabyte GM-M6800 Wired Optical Mouse ($13.98 @ OutletPC) Total: $1003.25 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-02 03:58 EDT-0400 - Not knowing much about your boss's workload I kept in the relatively beefy GPU, I assume the CAD stuff is hardware accelerated. It seems unlikely to me that nothing your boss does needs CPU power so I bumped you up to an i5-6500 which blows the FX-6300 out of the water. If you're sure he doesn't need it, at least get an i3-6100 over the FX-6300, it'll do just as well in applications that are heavily threaded and much better in ones that aren't. - I dropped the third party cooler and fancy thermal paste since Skylake CPUs run pretty cool using the stock cooler anyway, though you can add the 212 EVO back in if you're aiming for less noise. - Replaced the hybrid drive with a small SSD and separate HDD, hybrid drives aren't really very good unless you absolutely can't squeeze a proper SSD into the budget. - Saved some money on the case and PSU, the PSU should actually be a good bit better in addition to being cheaper. Hope this helps.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2016 09:04
|
|
|
Hello thread. Please recommend a good monitor, and if appropriate a video card to drive it. I am looking at a 29" LG ultrawide (https://goo.gl/OqOVn2) but I really have no idea what the best bang for my yen-buck is. Country: Japan (or USA if it the purchase can be made this August/September and will fit in a carry-on suitcase) Budget: $400 great, $600 starts to sting. Prices in USD, JPY would be 40,000 / 60,000. Games: Total War Warhammer, Mechwarrior online, Dota 2 Current system MB: Asus H81 m-itx CPU: i5 2590S Storage: 480 GB SSD, 1 TB HDD GPU: GTX 960 2GB (don't shame me) Monitor: Cheap and lovely 1920x1080 Space: Dual-slot video cards up to 318mm (290mm recommended)
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2016 11:43
|
|
|
Any season most of the HDDs on Newegg are rated 4 Star? I am in the market for a 4 TB HDD to expand my storage but the lack of five stars makes me hesitant of pulling the trigger.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2016 12:14
|
|
|
Fat_Cow posted:Any season most of the HDDs on Newegg are rated 4 Star? I am in the market for a 4 TB HDD to expand my storage but the lack of five stars makes me hesitant of pulling the trigger. Newegg ratings are often worthless. In addition to the effect where only people whose drives arrived damaged bother to rate them, you have a bunch of randoms unhappy about the fact that HDDs make noise and only have 3.6TB of useable space when the box says 4TB.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2016 12:22
|
|
I CANNOT EJACULATE WITHOUT SEEING NATIVE AMERICANS BRUTALISED!
|
|
| # ? Apr 28, 2024 21:00 |
|
|
blowfish posted:Newegg ratings are often worthless. In addition to the effect where only people whose drives arrived damaged bother to rate them, you have a bunch of randoms unhappy about the fact that HDDs make noise and only have 3.6TB of useable space when the box says 4TB. Alright then. Should I just spring for a WD Blue 4 TB despite the black having more RPM? WIll it impact me as much?
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2016 12:35
|
|