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The Iron Rose posted:the 960m is a loving terrible piece of poo poo card, the 970m is like twice as good easy. Hmmm, thanks for the info.
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Aug 4, 2016 19:04
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Insurrectionist posted:Since I'm not in the US or indeed a large country at all, it'll probably take quite a bit longer for them to get over here. Doubt it'll be this year. Wait. Or consider a small desktop instead.
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Aug 4, 2016 19:07
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MacDeuce posted:First of all here’s by current build: Just because the power supply runs on its own doesn't mean that it's capable of supporting the PC, but it's probably not the first thing I'd replace. First I'd look at the motherboard and see if any of the capacitors are exploded. If not, I'd reseat the video card and ram (or even try to run without them and with one stick of RAM). I'd also reseat all of the power connectors and then clear the CMOS. Here's a link to the manual: http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1155/P8P67-M_PRO/E6426_P8P67-M_PRO.zip The manual has the different LEDs and what they're for on 1-36 which may help narrow it down. The jumper for clearing the cmos clock ram is shown on 1-24 and is in the lower right.
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Aug 4, 2016 20:47
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Any chance the battery on the mobo is dead? I had a friend that had a similar problem and that's what it ended up being.
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Aug 4, 2016 21:05
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hamsystem posted:Any chance the battery on the mobo is dead? I had a friend that had a similar problem and that's what it ended up being. I was not aware that a dead RTC battery could cause a system to refuse to boot. Learn something new every day. E: Just looked it up. I was under the impression that the battery was just for keeping the clock current. Had no idea it was responsible for keeping the UEFI settings intact too. I'm sure there's a very reasonable explanation for why that stuff is being stored in volatile memory, but I can't for the life of me think of what it might be. Instant Grat fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Aug 5, 2016 |
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Aug 5, 2016 01:16
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I have 2 machines, one which I use as a Plex server, and one for my 1080p gaming rig. Is there a combination of hardware I have that would work better, or anything that would make an easy upgrade? The Plex server is a Dell Optiplex 790 with an i7-2600, stock case, PSU, MB, etc. I have a 250GB HD for the OS and a 4TB hard drive for storage. It's in a closet, so I don't need a keyboard/monitor, etc. This is my current computer: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-4440 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor ($177.99 @ SuperBiiz) CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($59.99 @ Newegg) Motherboard: MSI B85I Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($77.99 @ SuperBiiz) Memory: Kingston HyperX Blu 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory Video Card: Zotac GeForce GTX 970 4GB Video Card Case: Fractal Design Node 304 (White) Mini ITX Tower Case Power Supply: Silverstone Strider Plus 500W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ SuperBiiz) Case Fan: Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition (2-Pack) 62.7 CFM 120mm Fans ($21.99 @ Newegg) Other: Silverstone PP05-E Flat Flexible Short Cable Kit (Purchased For $29.99) Total: $437.94 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-04 22:12 EDT-0400 I also have a 250GB SSD, and a 1TB hard drive in this computer. The benchmarks for the i7 appear faster, so I was curious if swapping it over to my main rig would give me any real noticeable performance. Would need a new motherboard, which would enable me to move this Mini-ITX board to the Dell case. My ultimate goal would be to continue to have a Plex server, but move it to a new Mini-ITX to take up less space in the closet and accommodate more drives than the current case. I'd also like to get into VR earlier next year. If I'm not liable to see much of an increase then I'm fine with waiting.
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Aug 5, 2016 03:25
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pmchem posted:PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant Just for the record, I built this machine today (with 520W variant of the PSU instead of the 460W, but same brand/model). Everything works perfectly so far. It's much quieter than I expected. Installed W10 Anniv Update via USB stick. Had drivers ready on a USB device, too, which was good because the network was not immediately recognized by W10. Build was pretty easy, although the SATA cable headers are all basically upside down from what I would've wanted given how the SSD is mounted at bottom. Had to change one setting in BIOS to ensure memory was using the XMP profile, and another to optimize for windows boots. Came through as expected in Unigine Valley benchmark, prime95, and Windows memory test.
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Aug 5, 2016 03:37
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http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/cL8x6X Would anyone be able to give me a quick ok on this parts list to make sure these are all good picks? I mostly followed OP info. This is at the top of the budget, so any suggestions on where to downgrade and shave money without sacrificing anything would be very kind. Thanks! Edit: I'm not confident in that motherboard pick. It has poor reviews, especially wifi. Cheap Shot fucked around with this message at 05:08 on Aug 5, 2016 |
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Aug 5, 2016 04:20
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You could save money on RAM and PSU (probably don't need 550W in that build...): http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231828 http://www.newegg.ca/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007656%20600479293%20600014066&IsNodeId=1&bop=And&Order=REVIEWS&PageSize=30
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Aug 5, 2016 04:33
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Insurrectionist posted:Hmmm, thanks for the info. There's a mid-way chip in the 965M. It's actually a Maxwell (GM206) core, but to make things even more confusing, there are two 965Ms, but to my knowledge there's no way to differentiate between the two unless the notebook maker feels generous enough to denote N16E-GR in their specs somewhere. Regardless, you'd want the 4GB buffer version as the 2GB one is laughable. You also don't see many laptops using the 965M, either. http://www.notebookcheck.net/Nvidia-GeForce-GTX-965M-2016-Refresh-N16E-GR-Review.158192.0.html
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Aug 5, 2016 06:51
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Bovril Delight posted:I have 2 machines, one which I use as a Plex server, and one for my 1080p gaming rig. Is there a combination of hardware I have that would work better, or anything that would make an easy upgrade? The difference between the two CPUs for gaming should be negligible and the Plex server is probably better served by the i7's hyperthreading. As for upgrades, an overclocked 6600K+Z170 motherboard+fast RAM on the CPU side and a 1070 on the GPU side would be your main options, both would run you about $400 for a ~50% boost. Your current machine is around the usually quoted minimum specs for VR and should run anything else easily so you can wait until you pick up a headset to see if you need the extra performance.
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Aug 5, 2016 07:33
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I ended up going with these parts: PCPartPicker part list CPU: Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($215.99 @ SuperBiiz) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.38 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: MSI B150M BAZOOKA Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($84.99 @ SuperBiiz) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($67.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($143.00 @ Amazon) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($429.99 @ SuperBiiz) Case: Rosewill Challenger-U3 Mid Tower Case ($44.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair Builder 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($54.99 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($88.89 @ OutletPC) Total: $1155.21 I went through the tutorial in the OP (thanks) and a few other tutorials specific to the parts I was building with. I've checked and rechecked every connection and I can't find anything I forgot to do or connected improperly. On trying to boot up the computer, nothing happens. There's no LEDs lit up on the motherboard, no noise, nothing. Does this mean the power supply is bad? The motherboard? Or did I gently caress up somewhere else? (Apologies if this is the wrong thread to ask)
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Aug 5, 2016 11:10
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Is the power switch on the back of the psu on?  Honestly you're best bet of getting a solution from us would be to take lots of photos of your setup, start a thread with them and hope a goon can spot something you've missed.
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Aug 5, 2016 11:15
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I think posting a thread in the haus of tech support is technically the right place for this. Assuming it's not a connection you need to triple-check, my MSI Z170 motherboard happily lit up LEDs whenever something was wrong so my guess is it's either getting no power at all or the motherboard is faulty. I'm personally terrified of doing this sort of thing but you can make sure it's not a broken power button by unplugging the connector and bridging the two pins with something like a screwdriver, just a brief touch will do it. You can also reseat the RAM, try only one stick at a time, etc. If that doesn't help I'd try a different power supply (the CX series has an abysmal reputation around here so going by that it's a likely culprit) and if that doesn't help either, RMA the motherboard. HMS Boromir fucked around with this message at 11:42 on Aug 5, 2016 |
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Aug 5, 2016 11:17
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Does the B150 chipset even support DDR4 above 2133?
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Aug 5, 2016 13:30
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pmchem posted:Does the B150 chipset even support DDR4 above 2133? It'll just run at 2133
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Aug 5, 2016 15:34
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Instant Grat posted:I was not aware that a dead RTC battery could cause a system to refuse to boot. Learn something new every day. I may be misremembering then. I remember he had just gotten it back from whoever "fixed" it and it started locking up constantly so we went to Fry's and got the stuff for a new machine. This was when Crysis came out, so it may have been the battery+ something else.
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Aug 5, 2016 16:41
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What country are you in? Germany What are you using the system for? Gaming. Maybe some Linux for work but nothing intensive. What's your budget? ~700€ If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? Just want games to run, don't care too much about ultra settings. What's the best that can be fit in a micro ITX case with that budget? I'll probably be moving places often in the next few years and carrying full pc towers around doesn't seem fun. In that vein, any way to get a cheap portable small monitor? Looked into using a laptop for a monitor but of course most of them only have video output ports not input. Screen sharing over a home network looks to have too much latency/be too fiddly, but maybe I'm wrong.
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Aug 5, 2016 23:22
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HMS Boromir posted:The difference between the two CPUs for gaming should be negligible and the Plex server is probably better served by the i7's hyperthreading. As for upgrades, an overclocked 6600K+Z170 motherboard+fast RAM on the CPU side and a 1070 on the GPU side would be your main options, both would run you about $400 for a ~50% boost. Your current machine is around the usually quoted minimum specs for VR and should run anything else easily so you can wait until you pick up a headset to see if you need the extra performance. Thanks! I'll probably hold off on any upgrades in the meantime beyond getting a not-terrible case and maybe a new PSU for the server.
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Aug 5, 2016 23:23
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Markovnikov posted:What country are you in? Germany Here's a suggestion to start you off with: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor (€204.93 @ Mindfactory) Motherboard: ASRock B150M-ITX Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard (€79.62 @ Amazon Deutschland) Memory: Crucial 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory (€35.98 @ Amazon Deutschland) Storage: Western Digital Blue 1TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive (€52.46 @ Amazon Deutschland) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 960 2GB Video Card (€180.21 @ Mindfactory) Case: Fractal Design Core 500 Mini ITX Desktop Case (€57.89 @ Amazon Deutschland) Power Supply: SeaSonic 450W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (€80.50 @ Amazon Deutschland) Total: €691.59 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-06 00:37 CEST+0200 This is without monitor and operating system. I couldn't fit an SSD in there either without cutting the CPU or the GPU pretty significantly. I know a lot of people in here don't consider the 960 to be particularly great value, but this model of 960 was about €60 cheaper than even the cheapest 280X, and if you're not bothered by not being able to run everything at ultra settings at 60FPS, I think it's a solid choice.
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Aug 5, 2016 23:42
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Generally speaking, is it pretty easy to cram a respectable Intel CPU on a mini-ITX into a case that is less than a foot on any particular dimension? I see quite a few of them, but the power supplies all go around 150W, which scares me. I assume if I just need on-board video, it's fine, but I'd want a video card in mine. Outside of a hard disk, I wouldn't have anything else to cram into them.
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Aug 5, 2016 23:47
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Instant Grat posted:Here's a suggestion to start you off with: Huh, this looks better than I expected. Will it work without the video card, with only on-board graphics? If so I'll probably hold on a bit and buy a better graphics card later. Any problems I might have with the smaller case? I have some idea of it, but I've never built a pc on my own.
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Aug 6, 2016 00:45
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Markovnikov posted:Huh, this looks better than I expected. Will it work without the video card, with only on-board graphics? If so I'll probably hold on a bit and buy a better graphics card later. If you want, you can absolutely run it off of onboard graphics. It'll work fine for anything other than 3D games. If you want a beefier graphics card, you can either jump up to an RX480 (starting at €269) for more-or-less maxing out 1080p@60FPS, or jump even further to a GTX 1070 (€450~ and above) for higher framerates and/or resolutions. Though it sounds like, for your use-case, going higher than the RX480 would be a waste of money - a monitor that goes above 60Hz or 1080p resolution is gonna make your budget grow real fast, especially with a graphics card that can actually take advantage of those things. As for problems with the case, usual mITX caveats apply. It's more finicky to build in, because it's smaller. You might see slightly higher temperatures, though realistically it won't be anything that actually matters. CPUs are hella power efficient now, so even without buying a third-party cooler for your processor, it probably won't get loud enough to bother you.
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Aug 6, 2016 01:18
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What country are you in? 'Merica What are you using the system for? Gaming and web browsing, future use includes poo poo like MATLAB Budget: Preferably sub $800 before a monitor, $800'ish after a decent monitor would be incredible. Resolution: I'd like to do some Overwatch at 1080p/60fps on high-ish settings if possible, and Witcher 3 better than my PS4, beyond that I'm probably playing games a few years older so I don't really need to over do it. I haven't built a PC in years so I'm basically running off the thread recommendations, but my main goals are keeping the whole thing small, wifi capable and sub $800 bucks before a monitor. I'd appreciate any advice on hitting these goals as I've already managed to blow out the budget by $100. I overwrote Superbiiz because I've heard there were some issues ordering from them (shipping?) and am using Amazon as much as possible due to extra cash-back from Discover + I have Prime. Monitor suggestions are welcome, too! PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($198.99 @ SuperBiiz) Motherboard: ASRock H110M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($67.99 @ SuperBiiz) Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($39.89 @ OutletPC) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($89.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card ($229.99 @ Newegg) Case: Thermaltake Core V1 Mini ITX Tower Case ($42.99 @ SuperBiiz) Power Supply: Corsair RMx 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($64.99 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($88.89 @ OutletPC) Total: $823.72 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-06 16:24 EDT-0400 Updated with smaller case. Quite A Tool fucked around with this message at 21:26 on Aug 6, 2016 |
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Aug 6, 2016 02:14
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Quite A Tool posted:What country are you in? 'Merica Availability is a bitch but grab a ~$250 1060 if you can find one.
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Aug 6, 2016 04:51
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I was able to complete my build tonight. Would never have even attempted it without the resources in this thread. Thank you!
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Aug 6, 2016 05:01
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:Generally speaking, is it pretty easy to cram a respectable Intel CPU on a mini-ITX into a case that is less than a foot on any particular dimension? I see quite a few of them, but the power supplies all go around 150W, which scares me. I assume if I just need on-board video, it's fine, but I'd want a video card in mine. Outside of a hard disk, I wouldn't have anything else to cram into them. Yeah it's totally possible, although if you need a graphics card you need to go a little bigger. You generally don't use the 150 W power supply that comes with it unless you're just running a CPU and motherboard, there's a lot of SFX and other small sized PSUs available, they just cost a bit more than the ATX ones. Check out: The SFF and Mini-ITX Thread
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Aug 6, 2016 06:00
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Do you guys think a 60c idle temp is way too high? Because it seems really high. It's been like this since I put it together, but I never thought it was much of an issue until I mentioned it to someone and he thought it was super high for literally nothing happening. I think it's mostly fine, I think my fan setup is adequate. Not sure why it's idling that high though, normally it wouldn't be an issue but Overwatch (for some reason) is using so much CPU that my mouse is starting to stutter, which is probably not good. Overheating was the first thing I thought of as you can tell i am not good at computer
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Aug 6, 2016 10:55
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60C is very high idle temp. If your CPU fan isn't outright broken, remove the cooler, clean the thermal paste off the CPU's heat spreader and the bottom of the heatsink with rubbing alcohol and cloth that won't leave lint, then reapply it (a pea sized glob in the middle of the CPU heat spreader is fine, if you don't have any handy I think Arctic MX4 is a solid recommendation) and reinstall the cooler.
HMS Boromir fucked around with this message at 11:25 on Aug 6, 2016 |
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Aug 6, 2016 11:21
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What country are you in? USA What are you using the system for? Gaming mostly. Budget: saved up around $1,000 specifically for this. Resolution: I'd like for whatever I play to run pretty well without needing to lower all the graphical options for at least a few years. Complete newbie to all of this, and I'm in desperate need for a new computer since my current one is over 6 years old. The list I have down below isn't final and I welcome any suggestions you have for me. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($235.99 @ B&H) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.88 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: ASRock H97M PRO4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($82.88 @ OutletPC) Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($75.30 @ NCIX US) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($89.89 @ OutletPC) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.49 @ OutletPC) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($289.99 @ B&H) Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($44.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($77.99 @ SuperBiiz) Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($16.88 @ OutletPC) Total: $986.28 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-06 06:28 EDT-0400
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Aug 6, 2016 11:35
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HMS Boromir posted:60C is very high idle temp. If your CPU fan isn't outright broken, remove the cooler, clean the thermal paste off the CPU's heat spreader and the bottom of the heatsink with rubbing alcohol and cloth that won't leave lint, then reapply it (a pea sized glob in the middle of the CPU heat spreader is fine, if you don't have any handy I think Arctic MX4 is a solid recommendation) and reinstall the cooler. Alright, I'll do that this weekend. I'm not sure how to do that but I'll look it up on youtube or something.
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Aug 6, 2016 12:03
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Tobias Grant posted:What country are you in? USA You're kind of all over the place - mATX board in a full ATX case, last-generation CPU and GPU, and you've gone way overboard on the power supply. Here's a list with newer parts, a smaller case, and a PSU of more sensible capacity. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($198.99 @ SuperBiiz) Motherboard: ASRock H170M Pro4 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($81.98 @ Newegg) Memory: G.Skill Aegis 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($54.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($89.89 @ OutletPC) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.49 @ OutletPC) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card ($429.99 @ Newegg) Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($36.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair RMx 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($64.99 @ Newegg) Total: $1005.30 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-06 07:36 EDT-0400 I updated your CPU to a Skylake i5, picking a new motherboard and RAM to match. Went from a 970 to a 1070 on the GPU, and downsized your PSU to something more reasonable - a 450W would probably have worked just as well, but there's a $20 mail-in rebate on this one, so no reason not to. The case is far from premium, but there's a mail-in rebate on it, and it's perfectly adequate. I didn't include an optical drive, but if you really want one, just buy whichever is cheapest while still supporting the types of discs you want to read and burn to. Brand doesn't really matter much. If you want a third-party cooler, go for the Cryorig H7 (PCPartPicker can't find it apparently, so here's a link to it on NewEgg) rather than the Hyper 212 Evo. The H7 is basically just a slightly better performing, much easier to mount version of the 212 Evo. Instant Grat fucked around with this message at 12:45 on Aug 6, 2016 |
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Aug 6, 2016 12:42
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Tobias Grant posted:What country are you in? USA EDIT: Beaten. The above build is also good; to compare them, this one is physically larger (though you can switch to the N200 and Z170M Pro4 to get the same effect) and has a weaker GPU and stronger CPU. The build above will require a new CPU/motherboard earlier than this one but a new GPU later, basically. Most games are more GPU than CPU-intensive, but you didn't mention a resolution - if you're on 1920x1080 a 1060 will be enough to max out pretty much everything, so splurging on the CPU might be a good idea since an unlocked i5 has a very long useful lifespan. On the other hand, if you're looking at 1440p, you'll need the 1070's graphical muscle and can go with the cheaper CPU. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($238.99 @ SuperBiiz) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.88 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: ASRock Z170 Pro4 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($92.98 @ Newegg) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($71.88 @ OutletPC) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($89.89 @ OutletPC) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.49 @ OutletPC) Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card ($229.99 @ Newegg) Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($44.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair RMx 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($64.99 @ Newegg) Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($16.88 @ OutletPC) Total: $922.96 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-06 07:44 EDT-0400 - Moved you up to a Skylake build, no reason to buy older parts - Got you a Z-series motherboard, H-series motherboards can't overclock or use particularly fast RAM - On that note, particularly fast RAM, since the price difference is very small - A much cheaper 970 as a fallback plan, but a 1060 would be better and fit in the budget. You'll have to do some hunting though, stock is scarce. - Cheaper power supply with an obscenely long warranty. HMS Boromir fucked around with this message at 13:00 on Aug 6, 2016 |
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Aug 6, 2016 12:49
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Thanks for the advice, I'll look over both lists after work today and see which one I want to go with. As for resolution, my current monitor is 1600 x 900. not great, but it was something I had to buy in an emergency a few years ago when my old monitor died.
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Aug 6, 2016 13:35
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Tobias Grant posted:Thanks for the advice, I'll look over both lists after work today and see which one I want to go with. If you're not planning on upgrading that monitor, then I would definitely recommend a 970 over a 1070. The Asus Strix model that Boromir linked is a fine choice. Edit: Or if you can get a 1060 for about the same price, that's a great option too. Instant Grat fucked around with this message at 16:04 on Aug 6, 2016 |
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Aug 6, 2016 13:41
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Anyone have a recommendation for a decent 2 bay NAS that can serve files remotely via NFS? My server is in France and I'm in the US. I know some NAS have built in torrenting and Usenet plugins but I'd prefer to just serve them via NFS and not hammer my internet.
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Aug 6, 2016 16:01
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Palladium posted:Availability is a bitch but grab a ~$250 1060 if you can find one. I'll keep an eye open, no huge rush to purchase everything so waiting a bit to get the 1060 isn't a problem. Beyond that is everything else looking pretty good? I see some builds posted above me that add an extra $1-200 before the OS but I was hoping to use those funds for a monitor.
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Aug 6, 2016 16:25
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Markovnikov posted:Huh, this looks better than I expected. Will it work without the video card, with only on-board graphics? If so I'll probably hold on a bit and buy a better graphics card later. And as mentioned, yeah tiny case is just more crammed and annoying to work in. I think my case is smaller (Ncase M1) and have just been using the stock cooler. GPU wise I eventually plan to get a lower end of the modern cards at some point (i.e. RX 470/480 or GTX 1060) which afaik should be fine in a small case. What can really help in a tiny case though is a SFX PSU cause that saves so much drat space, I got one with fully modular cabling too (Corsair SF450) just cause the cabling nightmare I had with cables last time I built a PC. Neither are necessary (I don't think that case needs SFX at least) but it can certainly make things easier space wise.
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Aug 6, 2016 19:01
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Also, I should point out that it's done this regularly since I built it, so it's been idling at 60c for like eight months, at least. I assumed that was normal. If it's been like that almost from the beginning is it likely to be the thermal paste? Card is a gtx 780
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Aug 6, 2016 19:43
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Thumbtacks posted:Also, I should point out that it's done this regularly since I built it, so it's been idling at 60c for like eight months, at least. I assumed that was normal. Does it do this in the bios screen? There might be some hidden process consuming CPU if it only hits those temperatures booted into Windows. If it idles @60c in bios it's almost certainly paste. The only reason your chip hasn't burned up is because it'll be throttling hard when the temp spikes. It would probably hard-lock if you ran a stress test as it wouldn't keep up.
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Aug 6, 2016 21:24
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