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Thumbtacks posted:If it's been like that almost from the beginning is it likely to be the thermal paste? Card is a gtx 780 Just to be clear, is it the CPU, GPU or both that are idling at 60C? And if it's the CPU, what CPU do you have and are you using the stock cooler?
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Aug 6, 2016 22:12
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Country: UK Budget: I'd like it to be not much more than £800, including Windows Use: 1080p gaming I've thrown together the following build, and I'd like some opinions and recommendations: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor (£177.90 @ Amazon UK) Motherboard: MSI H110M Pro-VD Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£47.78 @ CCL Computers) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory (£62.17 @ BT Shop) Storage: Sandisk Z400s 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£57.78 @ Amazon UK) Storage: Toshiba 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£54.88 @ BT Shop) Video Card: PowerColor Radeon RX 480 8GB Video Card (£215.99 @ Ebuyer) Case: Thermaltake Core V21 MicroATX Mini Tower Case (£47.30 @ Amazon UK) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£70.97 @ Amazon UK) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit (£79.98 @ Ebuyer) Total: £814.75 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-06 22:26 BST+0100
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Aug 6, 2016 22:25
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Khablam posted:Does it do this in the bios screen? There might be some hidden process consuming CPU if it only hits those temperatures booted into Windows. If it idles @60c in bios it's almost certainly paste. The only reason your chip hasn't burned up is because it'll be throttling hard when the temp spikes. It would probably hard-lock if you ran a stress test as it wouldn't keep up. Not always. It is normal for a bios to not idle a cpu, so it will be running single-threaded at 100%. I have a Haswell system where the bios temperatures are the same as when running full load under the OS. It "idles" at 70 deg in the bios and drops steadily to under 40 after booting into the OS.
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Aug 6, 2016 22:47
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80k posted:Not always. It is normal for a bios to not idle a cpu, so it will be running single-threaded at 100%. I have a Haswell system where the bios temperatures are the same as when running full load under the OS. It "idles" at 70 deg in the bios and drops steadily to under 40 after booting into the OS. Normal function for the last few years is that the bios will simply run the chip at it's full speed (that is to say, it will not downclock like in windows) - so it won't be 'true idle' but it won't have any load on it. Temps should be a little above complete idle and no where near a full load. e: maybe it's too variable to be a reliable test anyway though.
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Aug 7, 2016 02:04
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I wanna put some more fans in my thing, I'm hoping doing so will allow the CPU/GPU fans to run slower and thus quiet my build down (only one 200mm intake fan in this case). can anyone recommend some good, quiet 140mm case fans? also, with only one chassis fan header on my motherboard, will I need to get a fan controller?
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Aug 7, 2016 03:03
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HMS Boromir posted:Just to be clear, is it the CPU, GPU or both that are idling at 60C? And if it's the CPU, what CPU do you have and are you using the stock cooler? I actually have no idea, I just downloaded realTemp and hats what it was showing but o have no idea what card it's monitoring. Is there a program I should use instead?
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Aug 7, 2016 03:15
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Looking at my bios right now, on boot it was 30, and I've just kept the bios screen open and my cpu temp is now 50 and rising. Edit: stabilized, cpu bios idle temp is exactly 60 Celsius. Edit 2: So I tried a different program that can actually monitor CPU and GPU temps individually, and it looks like I'm idling with CPU around 49-52, and GPU at 43. CPU is an Intel i5-4670k, stock cooler. Overall I'm mostly fine with that, not sure why the CPU bios idle temp is like 15-20 degrees higher than it is when windows is loaded, but whatever. I'll still double check and make sure everything is fine inside the PC though. Playing Overwatch right now, CPU temp is around 80C, which seems bad. GPU temp is 72. Room temperature is like 26, if we're going with Celsius. Thumbtacks fucked around with this message at 06:43 on Aug 7, 2016 |
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Aug 7, 2016 04:41
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Thumbtacks posted:Looking at my bios right now, on boot it was 30, and I've just kept the bios screen open and my cpu temp is now 50 and rising. That is a normal load GPU temperature and a high but probably not catastrophically high CPU temperature. The 4670K is a pretty beefy CPU, so while repasting might fix the problem the stock cooler does have its work cut out for it either way. You might want to look at just getting a third party cooler. The 212 EVO is a classic recommendation, quite cheap and effective, but on the tall side (160mm). The Cryorig M9i should fit in any case and do a fine job as well. HMS Boromir fucked around with this message at 08:47 on Aug 7, 2016 |
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Aug 7, 2016 08:42
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Phew. Alright, I'll look into that. Thanks, that's a load off my mind. I was worried I was burning my poor CPU to a crisp. My GPU is already not sitting where I'd like, I felt like it was leaning a bit and I could hear the fans rattling, so there's a breathmints tin in my case holding the side of my GPU up, which also stopped the fans. Presumably that's not a problem, it's not touching anything important. Sure, it's not the best fix, but it worked.
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Aug 7, 2016 09:30
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Hi Thread! What country are you in? Australia What are you using the system for? Gaming What's your budget? Ideally $1500 AUD, up to $2000 If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? Currently running 1920x1080, but looking to upgrade my monitor later in the year. Potentially 1440p, unlikely to be 4k. Currently running an i5 2500K, 8GB RAM, radeon 5770 (I think? might be 5750). I put this together before Diablo 3 was released, and it's really starting to show its age. I was getting weird artifacts occasionally and crashes from time to time last summer, so I'd like to upgrade before the warm weather rolls around again. I also have an ancient media centre that I'd like to shift my current system's parts to so that I can run Zwift on it with a frame rate that's better than single digit. Ideally, I'd like to keep this new system fairly quiet. Here's what I put together. It follows pretty closely the recommendations in the OP. I've ignored the merchants and just let the parts picker go with whatever. I noticed before that people were recommending amazon as a way to save big bucks on the graphics card. Would this apply to all parts, and what's the shipping time like to Australia? PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($332.00 @ Centre Com) CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler Motherboard: Asus Z170M-PLUS Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($189.00 @ CPL Online) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($141.98 @ Mwave Australia) Storage: Samsung 850 Pro Series 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($295.00 @ IJK) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($739.00 @ PLE Computers) Case: Fractal Design Node 804 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($165.00 @ CPL Online) Power Supply: Antec High Current Gamer 620W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($117.00 @ IJK) Total: $1978.98 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-07 20:57 AEST+1000 Mad Katter fucked around with this message at 12:10 on Aug 7, 2016 |
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Aug 7, 2016 11:59
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Thumbtacks posted:I actually have no idea, I just downloaded realTemp and hats what it was showing but o have no idea what card it's monitoring. Is there a program I should use instead? If it's RealTemp, it's monitoring your CPU cores. If you want to see your GPU temperature, try Open Hardware Monitor or another program. I also have a difference between the BIOS and RealTemp, the former is showing high 30's while the latter is giving me mid-20's. Not sure why. Fans kicking in after my computer boots? e: Your GPU temps seem normal both idle and under load, it's really only the CPU that seems a bit too high, especially idle. Could try looking into a custom cooler as Boromir suggested. Phlegmish fucked around with this message at 13:22 on Aug 7, 2016 |
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Aug 7, 2016 13:16
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Thumbtacks posted:Looking at my bios right now, on boot it was 30, and I've just kept the bios screen open and my cpu temp is now 50 and rising. Honestly, you may just want to wait until you feel you want to overclock that CPU then slap a good cooler on at that point.
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Aug 7, 2016 14:34
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Hi goons. After four years, I'm looking to upgrade my gaming PC - and the combination of a good tax return, and some life changes have made me decide to indulge a little. I've pretty much finalised the build, but would like the input of like minded people to before i pull the trigger. What country are you in? Australia What are you using the system for? Primarily gaming and online internet use. Some in-game recording, but no streaming. Minimal productivity work but the work I will be doing is usually done in VMs. What's your budget? $3500 without monitor and peripherals. If you’re doing professional work, what software do you need to use? VMWare Workstation. Sony Vegas. Nothing to exhaustive. If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? I plan to get an Asus Predator X34p (3440x1440) when they're released and would like to get around 60fps with high (not ultra / max) settings. Other bulletpoints
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($479.00) CPU Cooler: Corsair H115i 104.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($190.00) Thermal Compound: Noctua NT-H1 3.5g Thermal Paste ($11.00) Motherboard: Asus SABERTOOTH Z170 MARK 1 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($419.00) Memory: Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($205.00) Memory: Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($205.00) Storage: Samsung 950 PRO 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($385.00) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card ($1249.00) Case: Cooler Master HAF XB EVO ATX Desktop Case ($145.00) Power Supply: EVGA 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($199.00) Total: $3487.00 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-07 23:45 AEST+1000
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Aug 7, 2016 14:56
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Just a reminder to replace old power supplies! My friend called and asked what I was doing because his computer stopped working. We replaced the PSU with a new one, recommended from this thread. He said he was glad I fixed his computer. I said I'm glad his house didn't burn down. 
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Aug 7, 2016 17:09
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If I wanted to play games at 1440p will it take about ~1k to upgrade my current system? (I'm guessing CPU+Motherboard+GPU(RX480)+ram+case). I'm trying to estimate a budget. I think the only things I can reuse feasibly are the peripherals and maybe the SSD.
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Aug 7, 2016 18:34
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Your CPU won't be hit any harder by the increased resolution and the 2500K still performs admirably when overclocked. I'd get a 1070 (the 480 is underpowered for 1440p, I'd only consider it if your monitor suports FreeSync) and see if you actually need to upgrade the rest to play the stuff you want to play.
HMS Boromir fucked around with this message at 18:52 on Aug 7, 2016 |
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Aug 7, 2016 18:46
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KuroKisei posted:Build So, presumably you know this, but this is overkill. I'm not gonna tell you that there's anything wrong with that, clearly you have your mind set on building a high-end premium system, so I'll stick to just prodding at a few specifics.
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Aug 7, 2016 22:40
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Massasoit posted:Just a reminder to replace old power supplies! Or don't use OEM ones in the first place. It's hard to convince an average person to change out a lovely/barely adequate PSU on a new computer. People still treat their computers like VCRs.
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Aug 8, 2016 00:41
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Do not buy a 1070 from anywhere in Australia they are literally 100$ cheaper when bought from amazon, converted from USD, and just imported here, and you don't pay import taxes because it's less than 1000 in value You can also get a SuperNOVA G2 for roughly 110 there, which is about  less than you'd get it for in oz and pretty better than the HCG, but for the rest of the parts, from what I saw there wasn't really much of a noticeable price difference. Shipping times for me were roughly 3 weeks on the cheapest option. It's definitely what I'd recommend for the 1070 and PSU. Aesculus fucked around with this message at 00:57 on Aug 8, 2016 |
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Aug 8, 2016 00:52
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Aren't all custom PCs built with OEM power supplies by definition?
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Aug 8, 2016 00:57
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Aesculus posted:Do not buy a 1070 from anywhere in Australia That's really helpful, thanks.
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Aug 8, 2016 01:40
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Instant Grat posted:So, presumably you know this, but this is overkill. I'm not gonna tell you that there's anything wrong with that, clearly you have your mind set on building a high-end premium system, so I'll stick to just prodding at a few specifics. I don't care to look this up specifically between the two, but if you're chasing the bleeding edge the motherboard itself can matter. It can definitely affect RAM performance (which can be measured in frames) and it's a factor in stable overclocking. The monitor he wants is 21:9 (3440 x 1440) @ 100Hz, so a single 1080 isn't going to reliably top that out on current AAA titles; it's not overkill if it's within budget and you will notice gains over (eg) a 1070. He's overpaying for the SSD though. 850's are already perceptually instant in most things.
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Aug 8, 2016 02:01
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SLI has a suspect future anyway when game support is getting worse and Nvidia themselves are already downplaying it. Wouldn't bother picking a mobo just for it.
Palladium fucked around with this message at 03:19 on Aug 8, 2016 |
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Aug 8, 2016 02:10
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The Z170 Sabertooth motherboards are only rated for 2133/2400Mhz memory, as they're marketing towards "maximum stability". Also the dominator platinum um memory kits are pure wank, they're overpriced purely for aesthetics. Unless you really really want the look you can get better kits for half the cost.
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Aug 8, 2016 03:16
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Last post before I potentially pull the trigger on a build. Updated from my last post, goals are small form factor and 1080p gaming and school, with future use for Solidworks, MATLAB etc and the ability to upgrade. I found a 1060 for around $250 but it's a MINI(I assume this will be nice in the small case) and I've never heard of ZOTAC before. Am I better off waiting a few weeks for a different GPU? I've had good experiences with MSI stuff. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($204.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock H110M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($69.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($39.89 @ OutletPC) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($89.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: Zotac GeForce GTX 1060 6GB Mini Video Card ($254.98 @ Newegg) Case: Thermaltake Core V1 Mini ITX Tower Case ($56.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair RMx 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($64.99 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($88.89 @ OutletPC) Total: $870.69 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-07 22:48 EDT-0400 Quite A Tool fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Aug 8, 2016 |
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Aug 8, 2016 03:53
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I've had a Zotac 970 for awhile and no issues, a mini sized one as well. They also make the Z boxes which seem to get good reviews.
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Aug 8, 2016 04:08
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Wondering if I should upgrade my system. I'm getting No Man's Sky, Civ VI, and WoW Legion. Thanks for any assistance. My country is the US I'm using the system for gaming $1K-$1.5K Monitor resolution 1920 x 1080 Here's my speccy 
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Aug 8, 2016 04:32
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Your stuff looks like it's basically good enough for most things at 1080p. Maybe consider upgrading the video card in a couple years when it becomes worth it, but otherwise that looks like a solid build for anything not bleeding-edge. Also holy poo poo how is your RAM at 666mhz?
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Aug 8, 2016 06:21
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Aesculus posted:Also holy poo poo how is your RAM at 666mhz? It's not, that's DDR3-1333. Speccy shows the clock speed of RAM rather than the transfer speed; DDR memory has two data transfers per clock cycle, hence Double Data Rate.
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Aug 8, 2016 07:18
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Aesculus posted:Your stuff looks like it's basically good enough for most things at 1080p. Maybe consider upgrading the video card in a couple years when it becomes worth it, but otherwise that looks like a solid build for anything not bleeding-edge. Glad your question got answered because I would have no idea  And thanks! Good to know I don't have to budget for an upgrade.
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Aug 8, 2016 16:02
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BIG HEADLINE posted:Or don't use OEM ones in the first place. It's hard to convince an average person to change out a lovely/barely adequate PSU on a new computer. People still treat their computers like VCRs. They don't know what it is. How are you going to explain to your mother, who thinks her monitor is the computer, that she needs a better PSU? Hell, if I didn't know it was a Seasonic I myself would probably have trouble identifying it in my own computer, as I've never built a PC.
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Aug 8, 2016 16:44
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Phlegmish posted:They don't know what it is. How are you going to explain to your mother, who thinks her monitor is the computer, that she needs a better PSU? PSU's are pretty cheap, all things considered. Once I explained it to my mom, she bought a new one and I installed it for her and her computer ran a lot more reliably.
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Aug 8, 2016 16:47
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I know I'm generalizing. I bought a new prebuilt PC for my parents, had trouble explaining to my mother why she would have to use a USB stick or external HDD to transfer data between hard drives. My dad is cool and with it, though, he torrents and everything.
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Aug 8, 2016 16:57
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I bought the SA Penny-Pincer, the Dell Inspiron 3847 ]with Intel Core i5. I'm saving pennies to put a graphics card into it. It has a 300W power supply, brand name unknown. Should I replace it when I add the graphics card?
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Aug 8, 2016 17:07
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Country: UK Budget: Ideally I'd rather not cross over 1500 but I think with guidance I can bring the price down a lot more so I can spend more on a nice monitor. Use: 1440p gaming PCPartPicker part list: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/YtCPnn Price breakdown by merchant: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/YtCPnn/by_merchant/ CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£213.34 @ Aria PC) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£29.99 @ Amazon UK) Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VIII GENE Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£179.88 @ Ebuyer) Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory (£66.99 @ Ebuyer) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£125.00 @ Amazon UK) Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£93.99 @ Amazon UK) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB G1 Gaming Video Card (£419.66 @ More Computers) Case: Thermaltake Core V21 MicroATX Mini Tower Case (£47.30 @ Amazon UK) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£70.97 @ Amazon UK) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit Wireless Network Adapter: Intel 7260HMWDTX1 PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter (£52.00 @ Amazon UK) Total: £1299.12 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-08 17:40 BST+0100 I haven't built a desktop in a long time so I would quite like something nice, I have no parts I can reuse. I've thrown this together based on some part recommendations however I would seriously appreciate some guidance on where I can bring the costs down without compromising too much on performance. I am not determined to have the motherboard or the particular case on the list. A 1080 is tempting but I think I need to slap myself on the wrist an accept that a 1070 is more than enough for 1440p. Its not on the list but I also have to factor in buying a new monitor to go with the system and I would quite like a fancy 1440p 27 inch IPS display to ogle, its outside the scope of this thread perhaps but a 1070 is more than enough muscle to make those high refresh rate displays worth the cost right?
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Aug 8, 2016 17:50
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Mr Teatime posted:Country: UK
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Aug 8, 2016 18:17
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I need a recommendation for a good, low profile air cooler. Needs to be 58mm or smaller to fit in a RVZ02B case, and available in Canada. Cheaper is better.
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Aug 8, 2016 18:47
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I'm about to take a stab at my first ever gaming PC. This is mostly from the OP and the last few pages of advice, but I'm a total newbie – is there any room for savings or improvement? What country are you in? USA What are you using the system for? 1080p couch gaming for now, but I'd like to build something a bit more powerful in case I want to move to a 1440p monitor or a 4k TV in a few months. What's your budget? $1300 or so. It's flexible though, within reason. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($232.99 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.88 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: ASRock B150M Pro4S Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($73.99 @ Newegg) Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($76.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($143.00 @ Amazon) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB G1 Gaming Video Card ($434.98 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design Node 804 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ NCIX US) Power Supply: Corsair RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($88.89 @ OutletPC) Total: $1235.70 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-08 14:19 EDT-0400
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Aug 8, 2016 19:19
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Dekk posted:I'm about to take a stab at my first ever gaming PC. This is mostly from the OP and the last few pages of advice, but I'm a total newbie – is there any room for savings or improvement? PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($232.99 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.88 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: ASRock Z170M Extreme4 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($101.98 @ Newegg) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($71.88 @ OutletPC) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($143.00 @ Amazon) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB G1 Gaming Video Card ($434.98 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design Node 804 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ NCIX US) Power Supply: Corsair RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($88.89 @ OutletPC) Total: $1258.58 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-08 14:32 EDT-0400 Replaced your motherboard with one that can overclock that K CPU. It can also handle faster RAM so I put in DDR4-3000 for no extra cost. HMS Boromir fucked around with this message at 19:37 on Aug 8, 2016 |
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Aug 8, 2016 19:32
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HMS Boromir posted:PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant I'm guessing the motherboard/ram switch there would also be wise for my own build a few posts up? In reality what would I actually be gaining by sticking with what I had originally (the GENE).
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Aug 8, 2016 19:43
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