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Godholio posted:Does anyone besides race mechanics from the 1970s and collector car owners use non-maintenance free batteries anymore? I've never even seen one in a normal parts store. Or in a normal car, for that matter. I don't know about that in particular, but many car batteries still have removable caps. I just assumed anything with a cap that can be removed isn't maintenance free, and treat it as such.
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Sep 18, 2016 09:21
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Godholio posted:Does anyone besides race mechanics from the 1970s and collector car owners use non-maintenance free batteries anymore? I've never even seen one in a normal parts store. Or in a normal car, for that matter. Do those even exist anymore? Just because it has caps doesn't mean it's not "maintenance free". In fact, a lot of them with caps specifically say not to open them. The Decca warehouse near me gets their batteries shipped in dry. They can sit there for years and years in climate controlled storage without the "timer" being started on them going bad. They fill them as they are sold/shipped. All of them are "maintenance free" but obviously have caps so they can do this.
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Sep 18, 2016 18:01
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PaintVagrant posted:Jackbnimble add scions to your list, they are all basically corollas anyways. Corollas will outlast the cockoroaches Please dont. Those things of that year have the headbolt issue. Somehow corollas with there smaller motor dont. Its an expensive repair many are plagued with. Even rav4s come with the problem. Corollas have a smaller engine that doesnt have the problem. Scions have no benefit to them over a toyota. So unless they can show on paper that the headbolts were fixed ALWAYS pass on that gen of scion.
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Sep 18, 2016 18:40
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Space-Bird posted:Yeah, it's not really a money issue at all, I'd like to keep my car, and I generally like going out on long drives and road trips, I just don't need it for daily use. Give it a good run once a month and get the engine nice and hot. Cars like to be used. Also, park it with the handrake off and in gear (if you can) and it will stop the brake pads sticking to the drums/discs.
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Sep 18, 2016 19:05
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How difficult is it to adjust a car's pedals? My wife just got a 2008 Ford Focus and her foot can barely reach the gas pedal, even with the seat all the way up (she's 5'2")
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Sep 18, 2016 19:07
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Ballz posted:How difficult is it to adjust a car's pedals? My wife just got a 2008 Ford Focus and her foot can barely reach the gas pedal, even with the seat all the way up (she's 5'2")  Can she see over the steering wheel?
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Sep 18, 2016 19:19
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Ballz posted:How difficult is it to adjust a car's pedals? My wife just got a 2008 Ford Focus and her foot can barely reach the gas pedal, even with the seat all the way up (she's 5'2") It should be fly by wire and be able to use a spacer similar to below. Could probably cut some copper tubing and use washers and longer bolts to do same thing. http://www.cjponyparts.com/accelerator-pedal-mount-spacer-adjustable-1-1-2-focus-st-2013-2016-focus-rs-2016/p/FSTPM/
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Sep 18, 2016 19:50
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Christobevii3 posted:It should be fly by wire and be able to use a spacer similar to below. Could probably cut some copper tubing and use washers and longer bolts to do same thing. Or just a block of wood. No need to get fancy, although fancy will certainly do.
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Sep 18, 2016 20:53
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Can someone recommend a decent Crawler? I'm getting a little tired of picking greasy bits of kitty litter out of the back of my head when I have to work on something.
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Sep 18, 2016 21:29
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Farking Bastage posted:Can someone recommend a decent Crawler? I'm getting a little tired of picking greasy bits of kitty litter out of the back of my head when I have to work on something. The red Harbor Freight one does the job for me. Or you could invest in a sheet of cardboard.
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Sep 18, 2016 21:30
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What's the best method for getting dried crusted big guts off car paint? I washed my car today and could NOT get those little dead assholes off my paint short of scraping them with my fingernail.
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Sep 18, 2016 22:58
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Aquatic Giraffe posted:What's the best method for getting dried crusted big guts off car paint? I washed my car today and could NOT get those little dead assholes off my paint short of scraping them with my fingernail. Get this and presoak https://www.amazon.com/Safe-Scrub-Bug-Tar-Pad/dp/B0002LAC6E
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Sep 18, 2016 23:00
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Aquatic Giraffe posted:What's the best method for getting dried crusted big guts off car paint? I washed my car today and could NOT get those little dead assholes off my paint short of scraping them with my fingernail. It's definitely lovebug season. They will straight up etch your paint.
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Sep 18, 2016 23:06
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'03 Honda Civic. The strip of trim (I assume) along the door has started coming off: Consequently, whenever I open the rear door (the door on the right side of the photo), the separating bit of trim digs in behind the trim on the front door (on the left side). This keeps the rear door from opening all the way, and of course is probably no good for the trim on the front door either. Can I just clean the surfaces, put some kind of glue on there, and clamp it? If so, what kind of glue should I use? If not, how do I fix this?
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Sep 18, 2016 23:10
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Christobevii3 posted:Get this and presoak Oh sweet I'm gonna get me one of those. After a 3 hour drive at dusk in the countryside the front of my car is a straight up bug holocaust.
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Sep 18, 2016 23:10
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:'03 Honda Civic. The strip of trim (I assume) along the door has started coming off: There's special trim adhesive for stuff like that. Any parts store should have it. Edit: If clamping it down doesn't work and you end up having to remove it to do again, use a hair dryer or (better) heat gun to soften the adhesive. Don't just rip that fucker off.
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Sep 18, 2016 23:19
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Godholio posted:There's special trim adhesive for stuff like that. Any parts store should have it. Cool, thanks for the info. Looks like Amazon sells it. Recommendations for how to clean the surfaces beforehand? Otherwise I'll just go at it with Simple Green and maybe some acetone.
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Sep 18, 2016 23:23
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Farking Bastage posted:Can someone recommend a decent Crawler? I'm getting a little tired of picking greasy bits of kitty litter out of the back of my head when I have to work on something. This one is the best creeper I've ever owned: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004K7F8PQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 For cheap, the HF ones work fine-ish.
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Sep 19, 2016 15:53
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The hf ones can't get wet but otherwise ok
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Sep 19, 2016 16:48
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What are those slightly-better hose clamps called, the ones that don't have the slots cut in the band but have sort of turned-up notches for the worm gear to catch?
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Sep 20, 2016 02:12
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T-bolt clamps work well but have to be careful to not overtighten.
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Sep 20, 2016 02:14
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Car: 2003 Mercury Marauder with a DOHC V8 Ford modular engine. Engine seems to be seized. The starter engages, but wont turn the crank; which means I have stupid question now about bleeding the fuel system before disconnecting it from the engine. The service manual states that I should pull the relay for the fuel pump and run the engine until it stalls out. If the engine wont start in the first place, what would be another safe way to bleed the fuel system? Also, would it be wise to try to get this engine to work just long enough to bleed the fuel system? The engine has leaking valve seals and a broken head gasket(read: oil and coolant in the cylinder). Last time the starter succeeded, a HUUUGE plume of blue smoke came out of the exhaust, engine only ran maybe half a second and stopped, and now the crank wont turn. Smoke continued to pour out of the pipes for several minutes after the engine stopped. There was also this lingering low hanging fog in my front yard from all the burnt gack coming out of this engine. I was thinking about taking a breaker bar to the crank and to try to force the milkshake out of the cylinders and into the exhaust manifold, but then I thought I'd run it past here first because it might be a safety issue, also because it's probably a waste of time. Also because someone here has a better idea anyway. I do plan on putting in a new engine, but that entire ordeal is beyond the scope of this thread.
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Sep 20, 2016 02:45
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Pull the fuel pump fuse, along with any fuse that might be related to the ignition system. Pull the spark plugs. Crank it until the milkshake fountain stops. You're going to need to be able to turn over if you want to leave the transmission in the vehicle anyway, otherwise the transmission is coming out with the engine (and staying attached until you get the crank to turn). Worst case, just leave it a day or two; the fuel pressure should bleed off in that time. Use eye protection when you unbolt the fuel line, any residual pressure will make it spray a bit. Just make sure there's nothing nearby that could ignite the fuel. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 02:59 on Sep 20, 2016 |
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Sep 20, 2016 02:53
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Marauder Stig posted:Car: 2003 Mercury Marauder with a DOHC V8 Ford modular engine. Take the plugs out, spin it over by hand to let the gunk spurt out the plug holes, and release fuel system pressure by pushing on the schrader valve on the fuel rail (do these motors have those? I assume they do). You won't get all the fuel out, but it'll remove the pressure from it so you can unhook stuff. There's no way to do it without making a big mess, no matter how you do it. some texas redneck posted:Pull the fuel pump fuse, along with any fuse that might be related to the ignition system. Pull the spark plugs. Crank it until the milkshake fountain stops. You're going to need to be able to turn over if you want to leave the transmission in the vehicle anyway, otherwise the transmission is coming out with the engine (and staying attached until you get the crank to turn). I guess he could just pull the torque converter out with the motor (if he has enough room in front of the engine to slide it forward) but that's massively messy and yeah don't do that.
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Sep 20, 2016 02:54
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Use a towel over the fuel line when you disconnect it so it doesn't money shot you.
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Sep 20, 2016 04:10
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Marauder Stig posted:Car: 2003 Mercury Marauder with a DOHC V8 Ford modular engine. Sup Marauder bud   I'll be interested to know if you stick with a stock/refurb motor or try something a bit different. I'm at 140k and my style of driving means I might have less than 25k left before it Makes A Noise.
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Sep 20, 2016 11:56
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Thank you for the replies. I apologize for not mentioning. I didn't think it would be relevant to my post. My Marauder has a T56 in it and the trans is coming out before the engine does regardless. I need to change the driveshaft and the bellhousing anyway. With regards to what I do for a replacement engine...I'm making that decision after everything's out and I have things to measure easily. 351 Windsor would be my first choice, though. 140k isn't high mileage on these engines. Mine made it to 215k and I did awful, terrible things to it over the last 13 years. Hell, I almost put it in the bridge at Road Atlanta once.
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Sep 20, 2016 14:15
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Marauder Stig posted:Thank you for the replies. I apologize for not mentioning. I didn't think it would be relevant to my post. My Marauder has a T56 in it and the trans is coming out before the engine does regardless. I need to change the driveshaft and the bellhousing anyway. Holy poo poo that's awesome. I bet you are only one of a handful who converted to manual. Most of us definitely left in the slushbox and just did 4.10 gears and a tune. If you want to stay with the Mod motor, you could bore and stroke to 5.3L or put an Eaton M112 blower on top. If you feel like getting judged by 50somethings, post up at mercurymarauder.net and watch them cry foul when you tell them you put a T56 in.
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Sep 20, 2016 15:55
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A 50L Atlas Copco, 10 Bar, ~10CFM compressor should be enough for basic DIY automotive stuff, right?
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Sep 20, 2016 20:59
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SouthsideSaint posted:Please dont. Those things of that year have the headbolt issue. Somehow corollas with there smaller motor dont. Its an expensive repair many are plagued with. Even rav4s come with the problem. Corollas have a smaller engine that doesnt have the problem. Scions have no benefit to them over a toyota. So unless they can show on paper that the headbolts were fixed ALWAYS pass on that gen of scion. I read they burn oil but this... Googled scion tc head bolts, first two pages is almost nothing but stripped issues. But maybe that's self reporting bias,so I try the same search with Ford mustang and Honda civic, nothing but torque specs and should they be reused. Whelp. Thanks!
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Sep 20, 2016 22:21
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So I'm dumb as poo poo and scraped a post in a parking garage. I know I should probably take it to a body shop, but what if anything can I do to minimize it? Not too worried about the dent, mostly the paint transfer.
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Sep 21, 2016 00:44
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Get some 3m or similar buffing compound. Most of that should come out unless it's ground down past the clear Get inside the quarter panel by taking out the liner and push the dent out. It may snap back into place.
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Sep 21, 2016 00:47
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So I'm looking to buy a new car, but a few of the cars I really like only come in stick. I only have one friend who still drives a m/t but he has a Challenger SRT, and he said there's no loving way he'll let me learn on it. So, I called Enterprise to see if I could rent a stick but they said that they only deal in automatics. Is there any other way I could learn to drive a stick, or should I just cross STs off the list?
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Sep 21, 2016 01:34
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Find someone on craigslist selling a beater and offer them $200 to teach you to drive stick on it?
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Sep 21, 2016 01:36
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Just buy it and drive it. It's not hard to learn.
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Sep 21, 2016 01:44
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Rape Stink posted:So I'm looking to buy a new car, but a few of the cars I really like only come in stick. I only have one friend who still drives a m/t but he has a Challenger SRT, and he said there's no loving way he'll let me learn on it. So, I called Enterprise to see if I could rent a stick but they said that they only deal in automatics. Is there any other way I could learn to drive a stick, or should I just cross STs off the list? Bovril Delight posted:Just buy it and drive it. It's not hard to learn. This! It takes like 15 minutes to be passable, a week to be good, and ages to be smooth, the added wear will be negligible.
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Sep 21, 2016 01:48
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You don't want to learn stick on a overpowered Mopar dumpster fire anyway. Just get ready to buy the stick car, learn ten minutes (not too much longer) of theory (not on youtube) before you buy it, and go for it. More realistically, find lovely car lots that have cheap, crummy stick cars and go practice on test drives in them. If for some reason they make someone ride with you then be all "whoops! this clutch grabs [high/low]..." and then you are even more free to walk away at the end of the drive. Go down the road to the next lovely lot and repeat. Do not watch some idiot on youtube purport to teach you stick. Ten years ago I got an idea of what was required, borrowed my dad's car with him giving the odd pointer or two, and he let me just have at it. That car lasted 7? years longer with no transmission problems until someone hit it and it was totaled. You will stall it, a lot. My main problem was accidentally putting it in 3 instead of 1 at a stop, so that might help you somehow. e: Also as a general rule, you really never need to downshift to 1 when the car is rolling, which was another early mistake I made sometimes. Even if you're barely rolling 2 is where you should start back from.
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Sep 21, 2016 02:06
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That is true. Might call a dealer and ask they may let you drive one in a parking lot to learn to make a sale. Might have a used one or something. Focus St clutch is like a button now and super easy to learn on.
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Sep 21, 2016 02:08
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I actually took the Craigslist advice and I was amazed at how many responses I got in the last 20 minutes of people who are willing to let me learn on their as-is beaters for $50. Good call dude
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Sep 21, 2016 02:18
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Marauder Stig posted:Thank you for the replies. I apologize for not mentioning. I didn't think it would be relevant to my post. My Marauder has a T56 in it and the trans is coming out before the engine does regardless. I need to change the driveshaft and the bellhousing anyway. What makes you so sure the engine is siezed. Ive seen those motors destroy the flywheel and it makes it seem like its dead. Or is this not the same 4.6 that came in millions of panthers?
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Sep 21, 2016 03:03
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