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It sounds very difficult to get set up, needing a specific version of windows and a lot of freaking work to get running smoothly. I think there's a guy that sells laptops with it installed and working (on the forums or maybe ebay as well) which is the route I'd go to avoid the headache.
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Nov 9, 2016 15:32
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Larrymer posted:It sounds very difficult to get set up, needing a specific version of windows and a lot of freaking work to get running smoothly. I think there's a guy that sells laptops with it installed and working (on the forums or maybe ebay as well) which is the route I'd go to avoid the headache. Actually there's an easier/cheaper route - one guy is selling the DiCE tool and a Windows virtual machine with VIDA pre-installed and configured. You basically just plug in the DiCE, double click the VM to launch it and go to town. No weird Internet Explorer/.NET/COM settings required.
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Nov 9, 2016 17:14
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That vm is around as a virtualbox image as well.
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Nov 10, 2016 05:07
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RE: thread title. I just went to take a look at a V70 at a dealer and it wouldn't start because the battery was dead. 
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Nov 11, 2016 22:34
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I've only once taken a look at an S60R at a dealer. The battery was dead as well
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Nov 13, 2016 20:49
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Now that I think about it, every single one of the Volvos ever owned by me, family members and friends have had dead batteries at some point, usually pretty early in their carreers. Have personally had to jump-start or replace the battery in most of them. Battery-related Volvo story: About 20 years ago I used my parents 745 to move, and it was parked a few days at my uncles place (while empty, and no valuable stuff left in it). My aunt said she had found it with with the door not properly closed, which sounded odd, as I was pretty sure I locked it. When I got there later it was dead, I figured it was the dome light that had just drained it. Got a battery charger, but when went to hook it up I found that the battery was *gone*. Turns out someone had drilled a ~5mm hole under the lock on the drivers door to get in, and proceeded to steal the 5-6 year old battery (and nothing else). Police came and looked at the hole later, they hadn't heard of that method of entry before. Not sure if they had planned on coming back later when I had a fresh battery in it, since I just went on home.
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Nov 13, 2016 22:18
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my 92 240 lit up the service, battery, parking brake, brake failure, and light failure lights all dim and flickering about 20 minutes into the drive home, abs light started flickering with them on my way through town waiting at lights and it started to stumble a bit accelerating with the light. initial search is leading me to the voltage regulator or maybe grounds, glad this poo poo waited for it to get dark and cold to break. do i have to remove the alternator to remove it? e: glad i'm right and its not too hard of a fix, just annoying waiting for parts shadowzero313 fucked around with this message at 04:12 on Nov 16, 2016 |
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Nov 15, 2016 03:35
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replacing the brake booster on the 940 right now never want to do this again
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Nov 16, 2016 21:20
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it took me a whole day but i did it and i am doubling down on the whole never doing this again thing it was somehow more difficult than swapping out the transmissions, purely by virtue of having to squeeze under the dashboard to take off 4 nearly impossible to reach nuts
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Nov 17, 2016 15:04
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this is going on the new volvo checklist, especially since i think i can pull out the regulator if the oil filter isn't in the way
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Nov 17, 2016 16:26
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Hello Volvo thread! I just took delivery of a very neglected '99 V70 XC. 1) What maintenance do I need to perform? 2)  3) Where/how do I get duplicate keys? Thanks! Dagen H fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Nov 19, 2016 |
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Nov 19, 2016 20:00
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Do you have a dog to sit happily in the back? If not, you need one of those.
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Nov 19, 2016 22:09
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Wistful of Dollars posted:Do you have a dog to sit happily in the back? Yes
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Nov 19, 2016 22:30
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Dagen H posted:1) What maintenance do I need to perform? Not much. Old 850/V70s are good work horses. Change oil on pure principle, check for oil / transmission fluid leaks, have a look at the state of the brakes, drive it until something makes noise or falls off. Maybe change timing belt depending on budget and philosophy. Of course you can go looking for trouble wherever you feel like, but there's nothing in particular on that car that is a missed-maintenance trouble spot. Sometime around then were the first with electronic throttle (depending on model/engine or something), and those early ones sometimes go haywire, but as long as it works it's nothing to worry about. If you even have one.
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Nov 19, 2016 22:37
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ionn posted:Not much. Old 850/V70s are good work horses. Change oil on pure principle, check for oil / transmission fluid leaks, have a look at the state of the brakes, drive it until something makes noise or falls off. Maybe change timing belt depending on budget and philosophy. Of course you can go looking for trouble wherever you feel like, but there's nothing in particular on that car that is a missed-maintenance trouble spot. Sometime around then were the first with electronic throttle (depending on model/engine or something), and those early ones sometimes go haywire, but as long as it works it's nothing to worry about. If you even have one. loving lol  A '99 will have the electronic throttle which can have issues (erratic idle, poor throttle response, weird stuttering at low/partial throttle). By now most have been replaced with the updated unit, which can still have the same problems but just take longer to manifest. The PCV system should be replaced entirely if no records of that being done exist, otherwise it will burn oil and possibly even blow out a crank seal if it gets stopped up bad enough. Transmission fluid should be changed along with the filter, Volvo started telling their customers it was "Lifetime" fluid around that time which is utter horseshit. Also with it being an XC you should check the angle-gear for any leaks and for proper function. If problems are found depending on your budget you can fix it or remove the rear driveshaft and (iirc) pull a fuse and just enjoy your new FWD lifted wagon. Timing belts are every 100k miles along with water pumps iirc. These engines are interference (and fairly costly to replace) so depending on the mileage again you might want to check that out. Definitely not a "depending on philosophy" thing, unless your philosophy is spending a shitload of money replacing major driveline components as opposed to spending a small amount on preventative maintenance.
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Nov 19, 2016 23:34
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Terrible Robot posted:loving lol That's...troubling. 
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Nov 20, 2016 01:32
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Dagen H posted:That's...troubling. The good news is Xemodex now sells a completely refurbished unit (or you can send them yours and have them rebuild yours) that uses a totally different kind of sensor that cannot wear out in the way the OEM one does. It costs like $500 but the OEM replacement (that will eventually break again) is like $600 so it's still a good deal. http://xemodex.com/us/product/electronic-throttle-module-etm-turbo-pre-programmed-for-volvo-vo-1020-36001822-00-24/ Terrible Robot fucked around with this message at 03:04 on Nov 20, 2016 |
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Nov 20, 2016 02:59
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Also worth making sure the diff electronics module has been properly resealed to the diff, on the late P80s and early P2s the electronics liked to leak diff oil into its casing and blow it out. Xemodex also have a replacement DEM  E: This might not affect a '99. Might be P2 only. literally a fish fucked around with this message at 06:43 on Nov 20, 2016 |
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Nov 20, 2016 06:36
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Terrible Robot posted:loving lol If the car is "soon to be junk anyway" due to age/mileage/condition, it might very well be a case of fixing nothing too expensive and run it into the ground. Unless you do the work yourself (or get it for cheap) that could include the cost of a timing belt swap (which is a "some money now vs maybe more money later" philosophical/economical decision). All depends on stuff. Sure, if this is a car you want running for many more years, do allthethings.
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Nov 20, 2016 08:18
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ionn posted:If the car is "soon to be junk anyway" due to age/mileage/condition, it might very well be a case of fixing nothing too expensive and run it into the ground. Unless you do the work yourself (or get it for cheap) that could include the cost of a timing belt swap (which is a "some money now vs maybe more money later" philosophical/economical decision). All depends on stuff. Sure, if this is a car you want running for many more years, do allthethings. Dude Dagen's post literally says that he has just purchased the car and asks what maintenance he should be looking at doing. That right there says "I give a gently caress about this car and would like it to be around for a while". At no point did he say it was "soon to be junk anyway". Don't put words in people's mouths and don't move the loving goalposts when you get called out on giving out bad information.
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Nov 20, 2016 09:24
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This. If you're going to run your poo poo into the ground, you don't come post on a car forum asking how to not run your poo poo into the ground. 
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Nov 20, 2016 09:26
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Dagen H posted:3) Where/how do I get duplicate keys?
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Nov 20, 2016 13:44
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It idles rough and won't rev above 3k. I need to pull the OBD codes, then proceed from there. Thanks gents!
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Nov 20, 2016 14:04
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Dagen, If you decide you'd like more in-depth info as far as the codes go I have a computer with VIDA and a DICE interface and I think you're sorta local to me. I'd start with the coils and plugs if it's idling rough and won't rev. It could have ETM issues, but those usually manifest as surging or hunting at idle. I'd also recommend a compression test to rule out a burnt valve or something like that. Also jfc you guys need to lay off ionn, an extremely neglected P80XC has a ton of money pit potential and that's how it was described in the OP. It's good that Dagen wants to fix it up but I don't think it's unreasonable to say that you probably ought to pick and choose your battles as far as maintenance is concerned when it comes to a car like that, at least until you know it's worth putting some money into. BTW, the latest Volvo ETMs use the same sensor as the Xemodex units so if you can find a used one it's a good way to save some money.
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Nov 20, 2016 14:47
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Dagen H posted:It idles rough and won't rev above 3k. zundfolge posted:Dagen, If you decide you'd like more in-depth info as far as the codes go I have a computer with VIDA and a DICE interface and I think you're sorta local to me. I may have to take you up on that. Need to try the simple stuff first. Cat's apparently not clogged, PO said he replaced 4/5 coils. What plugs are in it is anyone's guess. Dagen H fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Nov 20, 2016 |
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Nov 20, 2016 21:05
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Terrible Robot posted:That right there says "I give a gently caress about this car and would like it to be around for a while". I do not at all believe I did, though I did make the assumption based on "neglected car from 1999" that it was a somewhat crappy old thing to just have running for cheap. Terrible Robot posted:and don't move the loving goalposts when you get called out on giving out bad information. We both seem to have set goalposts on either side of Dagen H's actual intentions with this car. Don't agree with you at all on the rest, but meh. Few of the maintenance items on this car are really different from any other 17 year old car (such as old timing belts and oil leaks and such), and things that are more common issues aren't really ones you must deal with now just because it's been neglected. Most things that aren't yet broken don't need fixing.
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Nov 20, 2016 22:05
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The interior resembles a barnyard, but otherwise it's a nice car that I would like to repair and keep maintained.
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Nov 20, 2016 22:13
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Dagen H posted:PO said he replaced 4/5 coils. I'm bothered by things like this. How did PO figure out 4&5 were bad, and what was wrong with them that couldn't also affect 1-3? A wild guess; another coil is going bad and it's intermittently misfiring.
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Nov 20, 2016 23:35
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ionn posted:I'm bothered by things like this. How did PO figure out 4&5 were bad, and what was wrong with them that couldn't also affect 1-3? A wild guess; another coil is going bad and it's intermittently misfiring. Sorry, I meant "4 out of the 5". I have the 5th one, new in the box.
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Nov 20, 2016 23:37
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Dagen H posted:Sorry, I meant "4 out of the 5". I have the 5th one, new in the box. Aha. In that case, swapping out that 5th coil sounds like a reasonable place to start. Did he get 5 new coils and replaced 4 of them? 
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Nov 20, 2016 23:48
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ionn posted:Did he get 5 new coils and replaced 4 of them? The coil for cylinder 1 is under a different cover. 
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Nov 21, 2016 00:04
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Dagen H posted:The coil for cylinder 1 is under a different cover. One of those where the cam belt cover is also over cyl #1? Dude, that's like two entire more screws to get it off. When given the chance to finish early, take it. IIRC, this ECU will give you per-cylinder misfire codes even with a generic  OBDII scanner (at least early 2000's models do, not sure when that started happening though).
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Nov 21, 2016 08:32
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Ya, all obdii Volvos have the ability to give individual cylinder misfire codes. Whether it actually throws a related code when it's having a problem is another matter entirely. My 850 was notorious for an intermittent hot low idle/shutting off/fouling the plug and refusing to crank back up until it sat for awhile, never threw a code of any sort. Had to drive around with my live data scanner hooked up until I saw the coolant temp reading -40°F for a few seconds when the engine was fully warmed.
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Nov 21, 2016 15:03
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ionn posted:IIRC, this ECU will give you per-cylinder misfire codes even with a generic angryrobots posted:Ya, all obdii Volvos have the ability to give individual cylinder misfire codes. Good to know, thanks gents. I'll borrow Dad's scanner, as well as visually inspecting the coils and plugs, and report back.
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Nov 21, 2016 15:20
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Any android device running Torque should be able to pull any codes you might have, mine even does a good job pulling the special P1xxx manufacturer codes. It's also super nice to be able to monitor sensors while driving, especially since Volvo took away the boost gauge after '97. Get a cheap Bluetooth OBD adapter from amazon, I've had great experience with the Veepeak ones. Apologies to Ionn for being a toolbag to him the other night, it was uncalled for.
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Nov 21, 2016 15:23
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Dagen H posted:PO said he replaced 4/5 coils. Confirmed. Replaced coil #1, ran well for about a minute, then back to poo poo. Dagen H posted:What plugs are in it is anyone's guess. Autolite platinum. I read somewhere that Volvos choke on platinum plugs and NGK coppers are the way to go. C/D?
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Nov 21, 2016 17:15
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Confirm, they run like poo poo on anything else. NGK or OEM coppers or nothing.
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Nov 21, 2016 17:37
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Will return with NGKs installed and OBD codes in hand.
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Nov 21, 2016 17:42
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Ugh, you'll find as many opinions as you will assholes getting advice on spark plugs, but personally I just shelled out for the drat Volvo branded ones.
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Nov 21, 2016 18:05
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It's true that platinum plugs suck in redblock applications but the OE plugs for the turbo whiteblocks are platinum. The Bosch 6730 is basically what you'll get if you shell out for a pack of Volvo plugs but they're only $3/pop from Rockauto instead of $60 for 5. Copper plugs will work but they'll need replacement more often, especially in the cars with COP ignition.
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Nov 21, 2016 18:14
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