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22 Eargesplitten posted:What sort of cable are you using? It could be a bad cable. Standard HDMI.
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Dec 11, 2016 20:09
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22 Eargesplitten posted:What sort of cable are you using? It could be a bad cable. Not if the OSD is displaying red too. That implies it's somewhere between the controller board and the screen.
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Dec 12, 2016 00:29
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Good catch.
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Dec 12, 2016 00:49
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Enourmo posted:So I'm building a new computer. I'll be moving my hard drives over (they're both fairly new, so I have no reason to junk them). Is there an easy way to get my system up and running without having to deal with OS re-installs, or am I gonna have to do some juggling? I think I still have my Windows 7 discs laying around somewhere, but I'm on Windows 10 now and we're past the free upgrade window so I don't know how I'm gonna go about doing all this. Follow up to this, the OS loads fine and I've been using it for the last week or so, but it's got an annoying "Activate Windows" overlay constantly on the screen. Activation page says I don't have a valid key. When I hit troubleshoot -> "I changed hardware on this device recently" (which is what MS site says to do after motherboard changes), it opens a new window that displays: Mocking PostTicketToReturnUrl, skipping authentication Redirecting to: https://sdx.microsoft.com/auth/complete-signin?ru=https://sdx.microsoft.com/wlt/flow in 5 seconds And then pops up saying unable to connect to servers to activate, reinstall windows or re-add your account or wait a few days for the server blah blah blah. I removed my desktop from the list and it's back on my account on the microsoft page, so it's recognizing that I'm signed in with a valid account on the machine. I really don't want to reinstall OS, especially given everything is working; I just want the overlay gone.I realize this is kinda getting away from "hardware issues" since the physical swap worked fine, where should I take this?
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Dec 12, 2016 01:13
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I hope this is the right thread for this, please let me know if its not. I've been having issues with my PC that I believe are related to a hardware failure and spent today trying to troubleshoot stuff. Ran Intel Processor Diagnostic tool and got the following failure: 1 degrees C below maximum Test Result - FAIL Expected Greater than 1 degrees below max Received 1 degrees below max Test FAILED Please check your Processor Thermal Solution Temperature Monitor Stopped What does that mean exactly?
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Dec 12, 2016 03:01
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bengy81 posted:What does that mean exactly?
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Dec 12, 2016 03:25
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For any UK dwellers that followed the recent outing of bad Molex>SATA splitter cables in this thread, I got some replacements from Amazon today. Molex to SATA, CableCreation [2-PACK] 6-Inch Molex 4 Pin to 2 x SATA 15 Pin Down Angle Female Power Cable:  https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01IBA3YTY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 They look pretty decent. They wires aren't crimped into a blade like the video by Mark Furneaux posted earlier, but separation of the wires seems pretty decent and they are a world apart in quality from the cheap Chinese eBay ones.    Pretty quick delivery too. I opened my server at the weekend and discovered to my horror (but not to my shock) that I've got a cheap one in there. It's getting replaced with one of these puppies in about 5 minutes.
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Dec 12, 2016 18:22
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To be honest, I still wouldn't trust those since it looks like the cables go directly into the moulding, despite the 90 degree style SATA connector. I specifically searched out SATA connectors that look like this: It's clear that the wires were cut into by a two-part connector component that snaps together into one piece. [edit] The angled version of these startech adapters on Amazon UK use the same kind of two-part connector: https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-c...s=molex+to+sata teagone fucked around with this message at 01:34 on Dec 13, 2016 |
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Dec 13, 2016 01:30
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Enourmo posted:Follow up to this, the OS loads fine and I've been using it for the last week or so, but it's got an annoying "Activate Windows" overlay constantly on the screen. Activation page says I don't have a valid key. When I hit troubleshoot -> "I changed hardware on this device recently" (which is what MS site says to do after motherboard changes), it opens a new window that displays: Put in your Win7 product key. I just had a very similar experience, upgraded CPU and Mobo, everything went fine except my Windows 10 installation was not longer 'activated'. Was getting the same problem, going through the suggested method with 'I changed hardware on this device recently' wasn't working. It couldn't connect to microsoft's servers for two days. Just had a support session with a service rep and all they did was put in my windows seven key. Activated just fine. Unrelated, anyone have suggestions for a tool to clone DVDs to a USB stick? New pc lacks a DVD drive and guess what comes with all their relevant utilities and drivers on a DVD! Teledahn fucked around with this message at 05:46 on Dec 13, 2016 |
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Dec 13, 2016 05:03
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teagone posted:To be honest, I still wouldn't trust those since it looks like the cables go directly into the moulding, despite the 90 degree style SATA connector. I specifically searched out SATA connectors that look like this... Those work out the same price as the ones I bought, roughly. I'll bookmark them and get a couple. Cheers.
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Dec 13, 2016 06:38
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Teledahn posted:Put in your Win7 product key. I just had a very similar experience, upgraded CPU and Mobo, everything went fine except my Windows 10 installation was not longer 'activated'. Was getting the same problem, going through the suggested method with 'I changed hardware on this device recently' wasn't working. It couldn't connect to microsoft's servers for two days. Just had a support session with a service rep and all they did was put in my windows seven key. Activated just fine. "Go dig out my Win7 disks from my mom's place" it is, then. Goody.
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Dec 13, 2016 08:11
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Enourmo posted:"Go dig out my Win7 disks from my mom's place" it is, then. Goody. Better than buying a new license! It sucks since adding your Microsoft account is supposed to make this nearly automatic, but it was easily resolvable in my case. Hopefully you'll have similar success. E: You only need the product key, couldn't she send you that or a clear image? My parents are both mac users and computer-stupid but I'd trust them that much. Teledahn fucked around with this message at 11:15 on Dec 13, 2016 |
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Dec 13, 2016 11:13
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Teledahn posted:
I use Rufus for converting optical media to USB. Regularly updated and lightweight.
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Dec 13, 2016 23:18
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apropos man posted:Anyone running automated S.M.A.R.T tests, what's your schedule? I don't know anyone doing this. I'm no SMART expert, but it is far from conclusive or all-encompassing. By the time SMART is aware of a problem it is often too late. I just run CDI every month and see if anything is up, but then I have copies of any data I really care about. Happy to hear from people who are more across the subject.
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Dec 13, 2016 23:24
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Right now I have a gaming PC in my bedroom and an HTPC in my den. Both are getting pretty old and since I'm getting old too replacing two whole computers seems extravagant, since I can just add a single 6TB hard drive to a gaming system and have all my stuff on one computer. Is there an easy way to sort of terminalize a PC and set things up so that I can use a monitor and wired keyboard/mouse at my desk and a television and bluetooth keyboard/mouse in the living room? I could conceivably run a long HDMI cable from one to the other, but I'd have to switch outputs constantly from the computer itself and a Bluetooth signal would be iffy. Or would it be easier to replace the HTPC with something cheap like a Raspberry Pi and just network them? Ideally I'd like to be able to do Plex and Steam at 1080p in the living room but I don't know if the Raspberry Pi can handle that.
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Dec 13, 2016 23:35
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Elotana posted:Right now I have a gaming PC in my bedroom and an HTPC in my den. Both are getting pretty old and since I'm getting old too replacing two whole computers seems extravagant, since I can just add a single 6TB hard drive to a gaming system and have all my stuff on one computer. I assume you only have one HDMI or DisplayPort out? You can get a DisplayPort-to-HDMI adapter if you have a free DP port. You can get a HDMI switch so you don't have to swap cables, but you also need to figure out how you will do your mouse/keyboard in the living room. They do make USB-over-ethernet adapters (as well as HDMI-over-ethernet). I've never used one, can't comment on whether it's any good. I don't like doing long-distance bluetooth or whatever. You can also use an app on your phone like a remote to control Kodi or Plex over the wifi. You can probably watch Plex streams on a Raspberry Pi (assuming you have media in a format that the Pi's GPU can decode, or you transcode it) but not Steam (as far as I know). You sound like a good candidate for the Steam Link - you can set up Plex Home Theater as a non-steam app on your PC to stream that across, they go on sale for like $30 pretty regularly. Or alternately, a Zotac ZBox/Liva X/some other little micro-PC running Windows on a laptop processor, roughly $100-200 depending on what you want. On the high end, you could also go for a cheap mini-ITX PC in something like the Mini-Box M350 case. An Intel G4400 would be more than enough for a stream client and then you can potentially upgrade at a future date since it's a full fledged PC. It's a little more on the expensive side, probably talking $200-250, but it'll just be like another set-top box. Check Microcenter for the CPU/mobo if you have one nearby, they have good CPU prices and a $30 bundle discount. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 02:02 on Dec 14, 2016 |
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Dec 14, 2016 01:41
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Paul MaudDib posted:Or alternately, a Zotac ZBox/Liva X/some other little micro-PC running Windows on a laptop processor, roughly $100-200 depending on what you want. This would be my recommendation. I know that Intel is about to come out with a new "Apollo Lake" quad-core (Atom) Celeron NUC with HDMI 2.0, and something like that would seem like a good forward-looking option if you want a cheap, compact system for Steam streaming and video watching. You don't need to run Windows either if you'd rather save money on the license, Steam streaming works on Linux.
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Dec 14, 2016 02:48
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Eletriarnation posted:This would be my recommendation. I know that Intel is about to come out with a new "Apollo Lake" quad-core (Atom) Celeron NUC with HDMI 2.0, and something like that would seem like a good forward-looking option if you want a cheap, compact system for Steam streaming and video watching. You don't need to run Windows either if you'd rather save money on the license, Steam streaming works on Linux. The main problem with Apollo Lake for a HTPC is that it doesn't have the H265/HEVC Main10 support that you will need for 4K BluRay/Netflix playback. So not really as forward-thinking as you would imagine. It's also significantly slower than a G4400 or something else that is considered "low-TDP" in the desktop class, so you can't really fake it with CPU power and it will not be beefy enough for anything that really needs CPU power (Plex, etc). And it's soldered down so once you own it you can't drop a Kaby Lake into the socket a couple years down the road to upgrade to HEVC Main10 support. But, you can also get fully passive Apollo Lake (it's actually about the most powerful thing you can do fully passive on reasonably) and you can't really do that with desktop processors. Or at least, you need specialty passive-cooling cases that are basically a giant heatsink, or you hope everything runs on the GPU, or else you get throttled. Passive cooling anything more than about a G4400 or at most an i3 is still impractical anyway. And Apollo Lake is probably cheaper at any given time, unless you have a Microcenter nearby in which case it's probably a wash costwise either way because of their deals. Not saying it's terrible by any means - it's lower on the price curve, lower on the power curve, and lower on the performance curve. Although the Intel NUCs and Gigabyte BRICs are not particularly cheap compared to the other brands of units like Zotac or ECS either - you are paying extra for the small size. edit: I did see that Asrock is launching their J4205-ITX motherboard soon - that in a Mini Box M350 case with a PicoPSU would be a good option in terms of size and price. Double edit: Newegg has the J4205 for $105 shipped, vs $127 - $10 rebate for a G4400 and mITX mobo at Microcenter. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 03:33 on Dec 14, 2016 |
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Dec 14, 2016 03:15
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Actually, I just realized my nVidia Shield tablet would probably work. It has HDMI out and does Plex already, and nVidia has some proprietary streaming thing (provided I put a GeForce in my gaming PC which I was going to do anyway). My current ancient build is a Radeon so I haven't tested how fluid it is but I guess it would make sense to try it first and only get a NUC or something if I have to. I don't have a 4K TV and probably won't in the near future so 1080p is plenty.
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Dec 14, 2016 04:14
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Speaking of bad Molex-SATA adapters, I'd like a sanity check on an idea I had: take a bad adapter and cut off the SATA connector, then take a SATA power cable from a dead PSU and connect the Molex plug to the SATA cable using wiring nuts. Is there anything about that arrangement that would cause problems?
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Dec 14, 2016 10:08
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eszett engma posted:Speaking of bad Molex-SATA adapters, I'd like a sanity check on an idea I had: take a bad adapter and cut off the SATA connector, then take a SATA power cable from a dead PSU and connect the Molex plug to the SATA cable using wiring nuts. Is there anything about that arrangement that would cause problems? Other than being kind of janky it's fine. I'd probably solder the wires together and use heat shrink tubing over the soldered together bits if I was doing it instead of wire nuts, though.
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Dec 14, 2016 10:24
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eszett engma posted:Speaking of bad Molex-SATA adapters, I'd like a sanity check on an idea I had: take a bad adapter and cut off the SATA connector, then take a SATA power cable from a dead PSU and connect the Molex plug to the SATA cable using wiring nuts. Is there anything about that arrangement that would cause problems? As long as you do a clean job (as mentioned, soldered with a bit of heat shrink over the joint), it's probably going to be better than most of the cheap and shonky adapters you can buy anyway. Edit: this is the first time I've ever heard of "wiring nuts".
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Dec 14, 2016 11:00
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I just recently came into possession of a fairly cheap motherboard/cpu combo (1155 H67 board and sandy i5). To make sure everything was working I did a quick check on the motherboard box and I've sen to run into a problem where if there is anything in the 3rd channel (labeled B1 in the manual) it won't post - I can fill the other 3 slots fine and get into UEFI. As far as I can tell, nothing looks physically defective on the board, so can I assume this is more related to the CPU? Is that possible?
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Dec 15, 2016 20:52
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FaustianQ posted:I just recently came into possession of a fairly cheap motherboard/cpu combo (1155 H67 board and sandy i5). To make sure everything was working I did a quick check on the motherboard box and I've sen to run into a problem where if there is anything in the 3rd channel (labeled B1 in the manual) it won't post - I can fill the other 3 slots fine and get into UEFI. As far as I can tell, nothing looks physically defective on the board, so can I assume this is more related to the CPU? Is that possible?
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Dec 15, 2016 22:19
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edit: wrong thread.
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Dec 16, 2016 09:33
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I want to add more RAM to my current PC (which is only a few months old). It currently uses 2x8Gb modules of Corsair DDR4 3200Mhz C16. (Side note: CPU-Z reports it as DDR4-2132 (1066Mhz), so I don't know what's up with that). My question is, what should I take into consideration in ensuring the additional RAM will be compatible with this RAM? Is there any danger or reason to avoid using a DDR4 kit with lower/higher specs (i.e. C15 2666MHz)?
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Dec 16, 2016 09:52
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jassa posted:I want to add more RAM to my current PC (which is only a few months old). It currently uses 2x8Gb modules of Corsair DDR4 3200Mhz C16. (Side note: CPU-Z reports it as DDR4-2132 (1066Mhz), so I don't know what's up with that). First, you should change your current ram setup in your UEFI to use XMP settings so it's going at the faster speeds you paid for. Second, you should buy a kit that is capable of the same speeds and timings at the same voltage as your current RAM unless you decide you want to always run all your RAM slower for some reason. All four sticks will run with the same settings. You can make faster RAM run slower but it's not a good idea to try to make slower RAM run faster, and you bought fast RAM. I'd probably buy the same kit again.
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Dec 16, 2016 10:56
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I need recommendations on a system that can handle multiple video streams. 20 streams/30fps/720p specifically. I'm looking into multiple xeons and a workstation video card, is this a bad idea?
Woof Blitzer fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Dec 16, 2016 |
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Dec 16, 2016 20:26
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Ice Cream Barbara posted:I need recommendations on a system that can handle multiple video streams. 20 streams/30fps/720p specifically
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Dec 16, 2016 20:36
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Alereon posted:What does this mean? Are you trying to play 20 videos simultaneously to 20 different monitors, or what is the deal? What kind of video streams? Post your response in the PC Building and Parts Picking Megathread. This is where I meant to post sorry
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Dec 16, 2016 20:37
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This probably isn't able to be determined from cell phone quality photos over the internet, but do my CPU socket pins look bent to you guys? https://imgur.com/a/ZajSb Tried to take a few different photos with and without flash and at various zoom. I have a Z170 FTW and an i5-6500. When I boot my mobo displays 4C as the last debug code and then goes through POST again. Gets to 4C and tries again. This is "OEM post memory initialization" according to the user manual. I bought this in October and had issues since day 1 but my computer was working, albeit only detecting RAM in the one bank. I called EVGA support but they couldn't help me beyond "Try reseating the CPU? There is no south bridge any more, the memory controller is on the CPU so that could be why. Or a bent pin, or a faulty motherboard or processor." Came home from work this week and now my PC just does this. Only just now finding the time to reseat the CPU, which did not fix the problem... Any ideas for a next step? Edit: Also reseated the RAM & tried 2 different pairs of memory. Sab669 fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Dec 17, 2016 |
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Dec 17, 2016 21:25
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Sab669 posted:This probably isn't able to be determined from cell phone quality photos over the internet, but do my CPU socket pins look bent to you guys? I'd RMA the motherboard (it may take time so be prepared to use an old pc in the meantime or buy a replacement and sell the RMA when it gets back, etc).
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Dec 17, 2016 21:32
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Sadly I don't have any other computer to use, and given the holiday season I've no money to buy a temp one even if I plan on returning it once the mobo gets back to me. But yea I think that might be my only option at this point 
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Dec 17, 2016 21:35
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So my PC died today, and I can't get it to boot back up. The fans come on, but there's no signal to the monitor and I can't figure out if anything else is even working or not. Tried re-seating the RAM and graphics card, turning off the power and draining it, making sure everything was fully plugged in, and reset the CMOS battery, but nothing changed, so I'm guessing there's some hardware failure somewhere. The PC is reasonably old (about 6 years) so it was about time for an upgrade anyway, but ideally I'd like to spend as little money as possible getting things working again. So I guess my question is, what are the most likely culprits here? I don't really know a whole lot about this kinda stuff, but from what I've read so far it seems like it's probably an issue with either the motherboard or the graphics card? (The two most expensive parts of course, hah). If the fans are coming on, that means the PSU is fine, correct? And if I replace the motherboard, that means I'd most likely be replacing the CPU and RAM along with it? Sorry for the probably very dumb questions.
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Dec 18, 2016 05:05
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Did you try connecting your monitor to the video connectors on your mainboard (assuming you have an iGPU)? Maybe your GPU just crapped out and everything else is fine.
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Dec 18, 2016 05:22
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teagone posted:Did you try connecting your monitor to the video connectors on your mainboard (assuming you have an iGPU)? Maybe your GPU just crapped out and everything else is fine. hooking the mainboard up to the monitor via DVI cable gave me no signal, so I'm guessing that means it's either a motherboard or CPU issue then?
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Dec 18, 2016 05:42
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:hooking the mainboard up to the monitor via DVI cable gave me no signal, so I'm guessing that means it's either a motherboard or CPU issue then? Could be. Is that the same DVI cable you use to connect to the graphics card? If not, did you switch the input on your monitor to DVI and/or try different cables? Did you try any other video connectors on your motherboard, e.g., HDMI or VGA? I'm assuming you removed the graphics card when you connected the display to your mainboard's DVI connector. Other troubleshooting scenarios you could try are: 1) Take the GPU out and install it in another PC if you have one accessible. If the other PC boots that would rule out the graphics card being the problem. 2) Connect your PC to another display (a spare monitor, HDTV, etc.) to rule out your current display being defective. 3) Try booting with just the bare minimum of components, i.e., remove the GPU, all but 1 stick of RAM, and any drives that aren't the boot drive.
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Dec 18, 2016 06:38
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Sab669 posted:This probably isn't able to be determined from cell phone quality photos over the internet, but do my CPU socket pins look bent to you guys? To find out if there are bad pins you can try looking at the lands on the CPU to see if the marks left by the pins are consistent.
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Dec 18, 2016 07:18
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Looking for a good *wireless* mic just for Overwatch. Something I can clip onto my shirt of headphone cable. I'm willing to spend up to $50. I know the $7 Zalman headphone-cable clip-on mic solution exists, and have used it (and honestly probably will use it again). I am just willing to spend some money to be lazy and not have to deal with even more cables, and curious how good/cheap the tech is.
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Dec 20, 2016 03:16
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I have a WD Black 3TB drive that has about 21,000 power-on hours. This morning, I checked on my computer and found the drive wasn't showing up in Windows at all--not even in the Disk Management component. Rebooting didn't fix it, but reseating the SATA power connector did cause the drive to wake up. Everything looks OK in SMART, but I know that's not exactly the end-all metric. To replace or not to replace? Or what further tests should I run?
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Dec 20, 2016 15:08
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