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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:I thought you said it was a Ranger, not a Tacoma. From the car fax, it was a lease vehicle in West Virginia. I guess they must treat the roads with hydrochloric acid or meth or something something. (bath salts?  )Found another one I want to check out that's about the same distance south instead of west, with only 27k miles on it, which is pretty ridiculously low.
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Dec 26, 2016 05:16
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Looks like a late model Nissan Sentra to me, but kinda hard to tell. Ah, the "get me the cheapest new car there is" car, besides the Versa
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Dec 26, 2016 06:24
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The clutch pedal in my 1988 Ford F150 is slow to come back up. Two weeks ago, I pressed it down and it stayed on the floor. I had to raise it up with my foot and it stayed. It's a hydraulic clutch, so I topped off the reservoir with the appropriate fluid and it made no difference. How do I figure out which part needs work? Is it the master cylinder, slave cylinder or the transmission itself?
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Dec 26, 2016 18:43
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Does the clutch engage still at the normal point?
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Dec 26, 2016 22:13
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Chuu posted:I'm just surprised a luxury car brand makes it so hard to get the service you actually need. lololol No they don't. They make it difficult to get ONLY the service you actually need. Because luxury brand. And I see your father has already bought into the "needs dealer maintenance" thing. You need to break him of that for his own (wallets') good.
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Dec 26, 2016 23:08
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kid sinister posted:The clutch pedal in my 1988 Ford F150 is slow to come back up. Two weeks ago, I pressed it down and it stayed on the floor. I had to raise it up with my foot and it stayed. It's a hydraulic clutch, so I topped off the reservoir with the appropriate fluid and it made no difference. How do I figure out which part needs work? Is it the master cylinder, slave cylinder or the transmission itself? It's most likely one or both of the first two or one of the clutch hydraulic lines. Start with the lines. See if you can find any leaks or cracks. Look up in the inside footwell to see if you can find any fluid pushing past the seal of the master. Check around the res to see if it may be leaking or the master itself leaking on the outer firewall. Just try to bleed it if nothing looks obvious.....a pressure bleeder is best if you can get your hands on one. Because your trans has an internal slave (what the loving gently caress, that's infuriating) you'll want to skip the standard "replace both if one is bad" and start with the master if all else fails. Otherwise.....the trans is coming out.
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Dec 26, 2016 23:13
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Imho if you can afford a brand new mercedes you should be able to afford whatever the dealer is asking for a service.
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Dec 27, 2016 00:16
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spankmeister posted:Imho if you can afford a brand new mercedes you should be able to afford whatever the dealer is asking for a service. That's exactly the dealer's line of thinking. Just because I can afford a $200 oil change sure as gently caress doesn't mean I'm going to pay it.
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Dec 27, 2016 00:24
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If you're savvy enough to get it cheaper good on you. If the dealer shakes your rich rear end down I won't lose any sleep over it either.
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Dec 27, 2016 00:35
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I'm not really sure what savvy you think it takes, but I also don't have much pity for people who pay dealership prices for services that could easily be found elsewhere for less than half the cost.
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Dec 27, 2016 00:38
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spankmeister posted:Imho if you can afford a brand new mercedes you should be able to afford whatever the dealer is asking for a service. That's complete bullshit and you are completely wrong both financially and in the whole socially "I'm a 'rich' guy so I just spend" thing. (hint: you don't get wealthy by buying things. You can afford them when you are wealthy but it doesn't mean you just open your loving wallet.) Although you are in the perfect mindset for what luxury brands have marketed to you........ So advertising DOES work.
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Dec 27, 2016 01:11
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Does it matter whether a glove is latex vs vinyl or powdered vs non-powdered for changing headlight bulbs? My mechanix gloves are definitely oily now, and also falling apart.
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Dec 27, 2016 03:11
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You basically don't want any skin oil being left on the bulb because it will burn, which typically ends up breaking the glass. Any non-powdered clean latex/nitrile/vinyl (etc.) glove will do. If you only have powdered gloves I'd put them on, wash with soap and water, then rinse them off with alcohol and let them dry before handling the bulb.
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Dec 27, 2016 03:47
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Christobevii3 posted:Does the clutch engage still at the normal point? For now, yes, but a few weeks ago, the clutch was all the way to the floor and it was stuck in a forward gear. I couldn't shift out of it. Luckily this happened at the top of the block so I parked it and just walked home. Motronic posted:It's most likely one or both of the first two or one of the clutch hydraulic lines. There's only one line between the master and slave cylinders. I'll look in the morning. I wish I had a garage.  Pressure bleeder? You mean like a hand vacuum pump? Is this like bleeding brake lines? I've done that before. And it might be time to take this thing to a transmission shop. I noticed that its seals were dripping under the truck, so the tranny needs work regardless of its cylinders.
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Dec 27, 2016 06:22
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Geoj posted:You basically don't want any skin oil being left on the bulb because it will burn, which typically ends up breaking the glass. Any non-powdered clean latex/nitrile/vinyl (etc.) glove will do. Okay. Pretty sure the ones at work are non-powdered, so I'll just grab a pair of them. My last ones burnt out after a year and a half. My current theory is that by having the gloves on before taking the plug and rubber cover off, I got oil from inside the engine compartment on the gloves and then that got on the bulb.
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Dec 27, 2016 08:06
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kid sinister posted:Pressure bleeder? You mean like a hand vacuum pump? Is this like bleeding brake lines? I've done that before. https://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/domestic-bleeder-kits That kind of thing. It really makes life easy. Doing a 2-man bleed on a clutch is just awful. Vacuum pumps can work too, but pressure is even better/easier.
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Dec 27, 2016 18:41
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kid sinister posted:For now, yes, but a few weeks ago, the clutch was all the way to the floor and it was stuck in a forward gear. I couldn't shift out of it. Luckily this happened at the top of the block so I parked it and just walked home. Probably the slave cylinder leaking. My ranger just did this a few months back.
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Dec 27, 2016 19:11
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Okay. Pretty sure the ones at work are non-powdered, so I'll just grab a pair of them. My last ones burnt out after a year and a half. My current theory is that by having the gloves on before taking the plug and rubber cover off, I got oil from inside the engine compartment on the gloves and then that got on the bulb. If oil was the cause, they would have exploded rather quickly after being turned on for the first time. They wouldn't have simply burned out.
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Dec 27, 2016 20:39
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Does anyone know what type of connector this is and where I might get a replacement? The plastic has started to really fall apart and isn't holding the wire onto the spade on the female side. Car is a 1998 Subaru Outback, it's the front turn signal connector.  
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Dec 27, 2016 22:31
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You need an 1157 twist lock socket, however it appears most/all of the replacements available are direct wire (they don't have the socket/plug configuration.) Really not that big of a deal, you'll just need to clip the plug off the end of the harness and splice the replacement socket into the harness with some heat-shrink butt splices.
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Dec 27, 2016 22:43
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I don't, but I just replaced mine due to the accident and have one downstairs to look at, so let me check if I can identify it. e: nope, all I can find is alibaba sellers trying to hawk crappy counterfeit ones. If I felt like ripping the one off my fender again I could probably ID the plug... but it's duct taped in till I get a new fender. kastein fucked around with this message at 23:15 on Dec 27, 2016 |
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Dec 27, 2016 22:54
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:If oil was the cause, they would have exploded rather quickly after being turned on for the first time. They wouldn't have simply burned out. In that case I'm definitely getting them replaced on warranty. There's no way a pair of lights should have burnt out in a year and a half.
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Dec 28, 2016 00:07
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Geoj posted:You need an 1157 twist lock socket, however it appears most/all of the replacements available are direct wire (they don't have the socket/plug configuration.) Really not that big of a deal, you'll just need to clip the plug off the end of the harness and splice the replacement socket into the harness with some heat-shrink butt splices. Awesome, thanks man. I knew it was on Amazon just had no idea what it was called. I sprayed some contact cleaner on it and rubber-banded the harness to the socket for now. It didn't totally disconnect either it just made the light slightly dimmer. The change in resistance is apparently enough to mess up the timer and I can't stand the hosed up blinking.
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Dec 28, 2016 00:50
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22 Eargesplitten posted:In that case I'm definitely getting them replaced on warranty. There's no way a pair of lights should have burnt out in a year and a half. Really depends on the type of bulb. A name brand standard brightness bulb shouldn't have, I agree. If you were running some brighter ones (Phillips Xtreme Vision, GE Nighthawk, etc), then a year to 2 years is about right, at least for me.
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Dec 28, 2016 01:12
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edit: not worth the trouble
Chuu fucked around with this message at 10:24 on Dec 28, 2016 |
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Dec 28, 2016 10:13
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22 Eargesplitten posted:In that case I'm definitely getting them replaced on warranty. There's no way a pair of lights should have burnt out in a year and a half. Headlight bulbs (and most others) are rated in operating hours, not vehicle service years or miles. How much life you get out of them depends entirely on how many hours you use them for... and also what voltage your car usually supplies them, to some degree. I drive so many miles (seriously, more than 20k since early August, and two weeks of that my car sat due to being on vacation) that I usually kill one or more sets of bulbs per year. Even that is surprisingly long life, IIRC the ones I usually buy are only rated for like 160 hours of operation and I'm getting upwards of 500 hours out of them.
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Dec 28, 2016 18:26
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160 hours? What the hell bulbs are you using?  Even my +130 Phillips Xtreme Visions are rated at 300. I'm pretty sure I have well over 600 or 700 on them now.
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Dec 29, 2016 00:00
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I burnt my clutch out on a 2011 WRX premium wagon. I've had it for 5 years and apparently I'm terrible at driving shift. My friends recommend me to buy a new clutch, they will help install it, then I should trade it in for an automatic. Checking Carmax and KBB, i should be able to exchange it for a 2011 BMW 335 I with similar mileage or something else around 20k. Maybe just trade it in for a honda accord or something and gain some money... I'm currently unemployed so im looking for reliability. Thoughts? Wendigee fucked around with this message at 01:25 on Dec 29, 2016 |
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Dec 29, 2016 01:18
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Sell it and get a mazda 3 used?
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Dec 29, 2016 02:05
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Learn to drive standard properly so you stop nuking clutches and keep what you have, or buy a decent beater econobox (the usual recommendations apply - 90s 4cyl honda or toyota) and run that till you have a job again. A clutch should go at least 100k, probably way more, if you just learn a few easy to learn things.
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Dec 29, 2016 02:13
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Alright, I have an exhaust problem that i would like some advice on. ('93 ford ranger, 4.0L, manual transmission) My muffler downtube took a poo poo. This is the tube that goes from the headers to the catalytic converter. There is a flanged connection that connects it to the cat, and it broke right from the flange. Here is a new downtube I bought for reference:  At the top of the picture is where the old tube failed, at the bottom are the parts that connect to the headers. Here's a picture of the old one, still on the truck. The old downtube is on the left, and the cat is on the right:  (I removed the broken flange that was still bolted to the catalytic converter.) The problem I have is that the other ends of this downtube are pretty well buried in the engine and I can't imagine how to get tools in there to drive the bolts out. It's a 23-year-old midwestern truck: everything is pretty well rusted. Stringing together a bunch of socket wrench extenders will probably not get me the leverage I am going to need. Here are photos of where the tube connects to the headers:   One of them is behind the oil filter, which will probably have to come out. So I'm kind of stuck here: either there's a way to access these bolts I haven't thought of yet, or I need to find a different way to fix this. (Or pay someone else to deal with it... but that's a last resort.) Tell me if this is a stupid idea: what if I saw off the flange on the catalytic converter and JB Weld a short metal pipe to connect the old downtube? It's not in great shape, but it's sound. As much as I would like to do this the 'right' way, the truck is not in the kind of condition that makes swapping out only one part an easy project. I would like to fix this before I have to drive it (on Friday), because as it stands the truck is deafeningly loud and spitting exhaust from directly under my seat.
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Dec 29, 2016 02:21
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Wendigee posted:I burnt my clutch out on a 2011 WRX premium wagon. I've had it for 5 years and apparently I'm terrible at driving shift. Are your friends trying to get your car away from you so that they can then have it or something? Spending the time on using a clutch properly seems the easiest option. Short of an actual physical limitation or purposeful abuse, pretty much anyone can get a clutch to last 100k, as said, with a little practice of the technique. We believe in you. Unless you yourself would prefer an auto, then go nuts. If you're looking to stay in a turbo wagon, then you can probably scoop up a recent GTI under your budget and their automatics are fun.
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Dec 29, 2016 03:19
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Jesse Ventura posted:Alright, I have an exhaust problem that i would like some advice on. ('93 ford ranger, 4.0L, manual transmission) jb weld on the exhaust, especially that far upstream, is going to not work at best and set the thing on fire at worst. Unfortunately that's just a poo poo-awful project. I don't envy you one bit. If the nuts or studs (it's always studs, not through bolts, gently caress you Ford - and Toyota and Chevy too while I'm at it, somehow Chrysler is the only company that got this right on their 318s and 360s) are rotted to the point where they snap off or strip, you are pretty much hosed and get to pull the exhaust manifolds next, which will result in yet more broken fasteners holding them to the cylinder heads. It's a generally miserable proposition.
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Dec 29, 2016 03:52
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I test drove a 2000 Nissan Maxima SE today (about 90k miles on it) and noticed a few odd things. First, when it started for the first time there was a loud, short, high pitched squeeling noise that did not repeat itself after it was started when the engine was hot. Second, I asked the guy to rev the engine with the hood popped like mentioned in the OP and the whole engine physically moved UP about a half an inch when he did it. Anything to either of these issues? It has a clean carfax report and everything else looks good and it drives well at least. Guy is asking $4700.
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Dec 29, 2016 05:26
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Squeal from a cold start is either a worn belt or failing bearing somewhere in the accessory belt loop (idler/tensioner pulley or alternator/water pump/AC compressor) or timing belt tensioner/idler. Engine moving a half inch when revved is normal, if its bucking around wildly an engine mount is worn.
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Dec 29, 2016 05:28
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Tell him to change the serpentine belt, if still squealing the idler pulley. He needs to replace engine mounts too. Otherwise tell him $3700.
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Dec 29, 2016 05:29
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Finally got around to switching the doorjamb switches in my Civic, and it fixed the headlight alarm not turning on! Thanks for the advice, insanity goons! The lovely impact driver I bought was so lovely it was DOA, but fortunately on further inspection the screws I needed to remove had hex-shaped heads, so I just took a socket wrench to 'em.
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Dec 29, 2016 05:33
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kastein posted:jb weld on the exhaust, especially that far upstream, is going to not work at best and set the thing on fire at worst. There's jb weld like stuff for exhausts called "gun gum" but I would recommend against it tbh.
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Dec 29, 2016 10:15
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Also its' water soluble, last time I used it.
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Dec 29, 2016 10:26
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Finally got around to switching the doorjamb switches in my Civic, and it fixed the headlight alarm not turning on! Thanks for the advice, insanity goons! Now you can enjoy being irritated by that bonging sound and wishing you hadn't got it working.
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Dec 29, 2016 10:37
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