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I'm new to the world of DIY computers but in a situation like this, couldn't you take the computer to a computer repair shop for a diagnosis? I feel like they should have a bunch of spare parts sitting around for testing purposes. But I dunno, no one ever suggests that so maybe it's not a thing. It just seems like the major roadblock to solving your issue is being unable to isolate the different components for testing without tossing random RMAs to the wind.
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Jan 26, 2017 07:37
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That may be my next step (and it is something I had considered). It'd be easier if I lived in a country where I could chuck the computer in the back of my car and drive somewhere. As is, I'd be lugging this to the nearest train station, then schlepping it to whatever destination. (Granted, "lugging" isn't exactly the right term for a Raven RVZ202, but it still isn't friendly to carry km+ distances.)
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Jan 26, 2017 07:57
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Grundulum posted:or the PSU itself could be bad. If you have a volt meter and a paperclip this one is pretty easy to partly test (you can't see what it does under load) http://support.antec.com/support/solutions/articles/1000015319-is-my-power-supply-dead-the-paperclip-test
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Jan 26, 2017 13:45
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Cowwan posted:If you have a volt meter and a paperclip this one is pretty easy to partly test (you can't see what it does under load) I should have repeated my earlier symptoms. The PSU is definitely delivering power, because all fans in the system spin up when I push the power button. The problem appears to be confined to either the 8-pin ATX port itself, the cable running to the motherboard, or the CPU. If nobody has any bright ideas in the next 10 or 12 hours, I'm looking for a PC repair shop in my area. Edit: oh, you were suggesting I run the paper clip from ground to any other pin on the 8-pin port. Maybe someone in my building has a voltmeter I can borrow for that purpose. Grundulum fucked around with this message at 13:55 on Jan 26, 2017 |
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Jan 26, 2017 13:52
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Grundulum posted:I should have repeated my earlier symptoms. The PSU is definitely delivering power, because all fans in the system spin up when I push the power button. The problem appears to be confined to either the 8-pin ATX port itself, the cable running to the motherboard, or the CPU. If nobody has any bright ideas in the next 10 or 12 hours, I'm looking for a PC repair shop in my area. So, don't do the thing with the paperclip in the 8 pin, that's a really bad idea. You want to short the two specific pins on the 24pin connector, which turns on the psu, then you can make sure the voltages elsewhere are fine. If you think the 8 pin might be bad you still short the pins on the 24 pin, but you test the voltages on the 8 pin. It's possible that your voltages are close enough to get fans running, but still off enough to keep you from booting. It's also possible that the voltage is sagging, but I don't know how to test that.
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Jan 26, 2017 14:32
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I posted this earlier regarding helping an artist friend build a PC on a budget of $500 so he can use it for programs like llustrator, Photoshop CS6 , Magna Studio and other stuff while having the option to play Overwatch with his friends but his main concern is replacing his ten-year-old computer that uses Win 7 and a motherboard Intel DG31PR. These are the parts that he picked with. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/gMg3WX Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor CPU Cooler Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler Motherboard Asus H81M-K Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard Memory Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory (Planning to bump the ram up to 16GB, maybe even more but the motherboard needs to be replaced then Case Deepcool TESSERACT SW ATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply I have no problems with building a gaming rig for him but something involving an artist to use on a budget outside my experience. He prefers using a PC over a Mac since that is what he is comfortable with. It doesn't include a HHD, SSD, Optical Drive, and an OS. but I'm going to tell him to get the ones recommended on the OPs. I convinced him to go $800 for his budget since he needs the HHD, SSD, OS, a new Optical Drive, RAM and anything else recommended by this thread. What stuff should he change?
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Jan 26, 2017 15:51
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I don't know poo poo about building computers, but as an artist, depending on how serious he is: 8gb of RAM is cutting it kinda close, and I would strongly recommend prioritizing some of the budget for a second monitor, it's night and day to have a dedicated space for references.
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Jan 26, 2017 18:20
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Unless you have a good reason for the older platform, get LGA1151 with a Skylake or Kaby Lake processor. Performance will be better and DDR4 is getting cheaper while DDR3 gets more expensive.
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Jan 26, 2017 18:29
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I'm going to buy a graphics card to play around with steam in-home streaming on my "NAS" and/or perhaps as an eGPU on my MBP, depending which solution works best. Mostly in 1080p but ideally 2880x1800, both old and new titles. If either of the solutions works out I'm going to sell the card and upgrade when Volta comes out. Do you guys think a 1060 6GB ($300) is worth it over a 1050ti ($200)? That's converted from local EU pricing with taxes etc.
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Jan 26, 2017 19:11
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Koramei posted:I don't know poo poo about building computers, but as an artist, depending on how serious he is: 8gb of RAM is cutting it kinda close, and I would strongly recommend prioritizing some of the budget for a second monitor, it's night and day to have a dedicated space for references. He knows how to use the programs but he draws by hand first, then scans them on the computer to edit so he might be VASTLY underestimating what he needs. I'm going to tell him to pick up that second monitor, 32GB of RAM, and the other stuff. Eletriarnation posted:Unless you have a good reason for the older platform, get LGA1151 with a Skylake or Kaby Lake processor. Performance will be better and DDR4 is getting cheaper while DDR3 gets more expensive. Budget but he might pick the worst time to go upgrading so he might has well bite the bullet. So something like this motherboard ASUS Z170-A LGA 1151 Intel Z170 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.1 USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard paired with Intel Core i5-6600K 6M Skylake Quad-Core 3.5 GHz LGA 1151 91W BX80662I56600K Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 530 ? And oh wow, the cost between a DDR3 16GB stick of ram and a DDR4 16GB is a $30 difference. Going to tell him to grab that as well AmyL fucked around with this message at 19:44 on Jan 26, 2017 |
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Jan 26, 2017 19:40
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eames posted:I'm going to buy a graphics card to play around with steam in-home streaming on my "NAS" and/or perhaps as an eGPU on my MBP, depending which solution works best. Mostly in 1080p but ideally 2880x1800, both old and new titles. If either of the solutions works out I'm going to sell the card and upgrade when Volta comes out. For that higher resolution, you definitely want the 1060. It's win-win - at the higher resolution you might have to compromise some eye candy, but at 60Hz 1080p the 1060 will handle anything you can throw at it. The 1050Ti is honestly the best "add it to a pre-built" card.
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Jan 26, 2017 19:43
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AmyL posted:He knows how to use the programs but he draws by hand first, then scans them on the computer to edit so he might be VASTLY underestimating what he needs. I'm going to tell him to pick up that second monitor, 32GB of RAM, and the other stuff. Ha he won't need that much RAM, 16 should be plenty.
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Jan 26, 2017 19:46
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BIG HEADLINE posted:For that higher resolution, you definitely want the 1060. It's win-win - at the higher resolution you might have to compromise some eye candy, but at 60Hz 1080p the 1060 will handle anything you can throw at it. Really? Isn't all of this contingent on pricing? I just recommended a 1050 Ti to a friend to upgrade from a GTX 560, and he's thrilled with it. Local pricing is ~$130 for 1050 Tis, ~$170 for RX 470s. It seems like a drat competitive card under $150, and it's a pretty big jump to what a 1060 costs.
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Jan 26, 2017 19:47
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Twerk from Home posted:Really? Isn't all of this contingent on pricing? I just recommended a 1050 Ti to a friend to upgrade from a GTX 560, and he's thrilled with it. Local pricing is ~$130 for 1050 Tis, ~$170 for RX 470s. It seems like a drat competitive card under $150, and it's a pretty big jump to what a 1060 costs. The 1050Ti compares favorably to a 970 on paper, but it falls behind on stats like fill rate and memory bandwidth. Compared to a 560, yeah - it's going to be a hell of a jump. If you're going to be running 1080p@60Hz, the 1050Ti and 470 are going to be stellar cards. In this specific case, with him saying he might have to drive 2880x1800, the 1060's a better choice, since it performs more on par with a 980 with 6GB of buffer instead of 4.
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Jan 26, 2017 19:52
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Koramei posted:Ha he won't need that much RAM, 16 should be plenty. Whew, ok. Gaming would be so much easier because I could go through the OP and pick the best stuff. I'm planning to tell him to pick up the Be quiet! Silent Base 800 for the ATX case, a GeForce GTX 1070 graphics card, Corsair RM(450W to 1000W) and a Asus Optical DRW24FRIST drive. The second monitor I'm going to tell him to pick up a generic or cheap for now since his budget is already going to be stretched out. AmyL fucked around with this message at 19:56 on Jan 26, 2017 |
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Jan 26, 2017 19:53
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Other people might have different opinions but if he's just playing Overwatch (I don't play it but it's pretty scaleable right?) a 1060 or even 1050 should be more than enough. Then put the extra money into a bigger SSD; file loading and saving and so on is extremely tedious when you're dealing with hundreds of big files from illustration programs, so to have stuff you're working on on one saves a lot of time. Likewise probably not good to totally skimp out on the monitor, color definition is very important for art.
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Jan 26, 2017 19:59
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Koramei posted:Other people might have different opinions but if he's just playing Overwatch (I don't play it but it's pretty scaleable right?) a 1060 or even 1050 should be more than enough. Then put the extra money into a bigger SSD; file loading and saving and so on is extremely tedious when you're dealing with hundreds of big files from illustration programs, so to have stuff you're working on on one saves a lot of time. Probably the 1060 then since the 1050 is supposed to be better for prebuilts, right? I agree with you on the SSD, better to get over with now.
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Jan 26, 2017 20:01
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AmyL posted:He knows how to use the programs but he draws by hand first, then scans them on the computer to edit so he might be VASTLY underestimating what he needs. I'm going to tell him to pick up that second monitor, 32GB of RAM, and the other stuff. 32GB is quite a lot still but if you know you need it, it's even better to go LGA1151/DDR4 so you can run 2x16. If you're going that high on the processor and motherboard it's kind of a shame not to do a tiny bit more and get 7600K+Z270 for the newest and best. You will need an aftermarket cooler, though. Cheaper alternatives without the -K suffix lock you out of overclocking but have an included cooler and don't need a Z*70 board to reach their full potential Generally the overclocking processors are considered to have the best price/performance but only if you actually overclock them and actually run applications that use the added clock speed. If you're editing images with this I'm not sure if it will be needed and I was under the implication that the budget might be tighter than this, but for games 7600K+Z270 is the current sweet spot. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 20:05 on Jan 26, 2017 |
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Jan 26, 2017 20:02
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Bass Bottles posted:I'm new to the world of DIY computers but in a situation like this, couldn't you take the computer to a computer repair shop for a diagnosis? I feel like they should have a bunch of spare parts sitting around for testing purposes. In the US, companies like Best Buy have deals with FBI to monitor computers in for repairs, so, uh, caveat emptor. In any case, don't include any HDDs beyond the one with your OS.
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Jan 26, 2017 20:02
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Sure, it's overkill for most applications, but Newegg US has the Corsair RMx 850W PSU for $109 after sale price and a $20 promo code. This is  more expensive than the 650W, which is only $99 after a $10 rebate: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139141Also, a cheaper option, even though it's a G1 (still has a 10y warranty): https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438026
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Jan 26, 2017 20:03
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Eletriarnation posted:32GB is quite a lot still but if you know you need it, it's even better to go LGA1151/DDR4 so you can run 2x16. I'm going to hold off on the aftermarket cooler and the 7600K/Z270 since he won't be overclocking them, he is already slightly over budget, and I don't know how customs are regarding Mexico. Thank God he gets paid in US dollars because I don't even want to imagine him paying anything with MXN. What processor should I go for then if he doesn't need the 7600K/Z270?
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Jan 26, 2017 20:05
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AmyL posted:Probably the 1060 then since the 1050 is supposed to be better for prebuilts, right? I agree with you on the SSD, better to get over with now.  for art you can make do with integrated graphics. I don't know what his priorities are but personally, I'd rather put the $100 difference between 1050 and 1060 towards a better monitor or in the fund for a better graphics tablet down the line. Or even an upgrade to an i7. If he's doing a bunch of gaming on the side then sure, but if it's literally just stuff like Overwatch then I don't think the graphics card should be much of a priority.
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Jan 26, 2017 20:05
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Koramei posted:
AmyL fucked around with this message at 20:31 on Jan 26, 2017 |
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Jan 26, 2017 20:23
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drat it, double post
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Jan 26, 2017 20:24
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He doesn't have one at all? That should really be the number one priority for this new build then. I know they're hard to use when you're starting out on them but digital art programs aren't really much good without them. Tablets can run very expensive but you don't have to get a $600 one to start out with- this one is what I'd recommend to someone on a budget. And I'd really recommend a tablet over the 16gb RAM, second monitor, even having an SSD period. If your friend is at all serious about digital art you really can't get by without one.
Koramei fucked around with this message at 20:49 on Jan 26, 2017 |
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Jan 26, 2017 20:35
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AmyL posted:I'm going to hold off on the aftermarket cooler and the 7600K/Z270 since he won't be overclocking them, he is already slightly over budget, and I don't know how customs are regarding Mexico. Thank God he gets paid in US dollars because I don't even want to imagine him paying anything with MXN. If you're not overclocking and you want a quad-core, get the i5-6400 for minimum price and the i5-7600 for maximum performance. In between are the 7400, 6500, 7500, and 6600 non-K; on Newegg at least these are all within $40 of each other. The only real difference between all six of these chips is clock speed - the 6400 is 2.7GHz base/3.3GHz turbo and the 7600 is 3.5/4.1, with the others at various points in between. Price/performance will be best (especially if you're considering the cost of the whole system) for the 7600, but only if you're going to actually use the speed. If you get a Skylake (6-series) chip then either 100-series or 200-series chipsets are fine; if you get Kaby Lake, best to stick with 200-series unless you can find confirmation that the board has a BIOS that's compatible with the newer chips. There are various charts around that show all the differences, but here's the skinny: H170/H270 - All the features except overclocking pretty much. Q* - All the features, but for business; you won't really see these so don't worry about them. B150/B250 - Fewer ports than H series, and no NVMe (PCIe) SSD support on B150 only. B250 supports one NVMe drive. H110 - Bare minimum. No NVMe and only two RAM slots. Only 4 USB 3.0 ports and only 4 SATA ports. There is no H210. The price difference isn't going to be high so if you want to keep it simple just get a good H170/H270 board depending on whether you have Sky- or Kaby Lake. You can cut costs if you want but I'm not sure what you'll find acceptable. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 20:50 on Jan 26, 2017 |
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Jan 26, 2017 20:45
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Also, it's important to note that the H270 doesn't have the 24 PCIe lanes the Z270 does. It only has 20.
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Jan 26, 2017 21:02
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I'm working on a build to last me a few years, upgrading from 4gb ram, i5 750 and HD 5750. How does this parts list look? http://pcpartpicker.com/list/PyR8zM using ssd and DVD from my old machine and USB wan thing. Mostly play Overwatch and elite dangerous right now but want it to run most stuff outside the teens in fps on medium+ settings for a few years.
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Jan 26, 2017 21:15
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Could I get a little primer on the various USB types and the interaction between case and motherboard? If the case has USB 3.0 and the motherboard has 3.1 I assume it won't go 3.1 speeds? What about 3.1 Gen 1/2? And USB-C I assume can connect to all kinds of USB 3.0/1Gen1/Gen2 ports? I'm just kind of confused how much should I worry about mismatched USB versions and not buying a motherboard with 3.1 Gen 2 if my case can only suport regular 3.1 or something...
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Jan 26, 2017 21:17
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I took this list and compared prices online Amazon and others are the same plus or minus a bit to my local Memory Express so I figured I'd just get what I can there. This probably has a lot to do with me living in Canada. Anyways I called them and they suggested the following substitutions. I just want to run them by this thread since I wouldn't know if they were terrible.
As well, they don't carry ASRock mobos and NCIX (which pcpartpicker recommends) says I can order it and they'll ship it when it gets in stock. That sounds terrible to me. Are there any good alternatives or is NCIX's ship when we can approach not as bad as I'm imagining?
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Jan 26, 2017 21:52
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awesomeolion posted:I took this list and compared prices online Amazon and others are the same plus or minus a bit to my local Memory Express so I figured I'd just get what I can there. This probably has a lot to do with me living in Canada. Anyways I called them and they suggested the following substitutions. I just want to run them by this thread since I wouldn't know if they were terrible. Why not go for a RX470 over a 1050? Pretty big performance jump for like $20.
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Jan 26, 2017 21:55
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Based on what I've been Googling, I'm pretty certain my lovely Asrock 970 Extreme3 mobo has been the cause of my occasional FPS drop and audio stuttering in Overwatch despite otherwise great performance. CPU is FX-8350, which I am happy with performance-wise but is pushing the thermal envelope for that particular motherboard. I suspect the VRMs are overheating and throttling CPU from 4.0ghz to 1.3ghz for 5-20 seconds intermittently during gameplay, which dumps FPS from 72 to <30 and renders it unplayable. Long story short, I'm considering going to Skylake with a 6600k - what are the preferred models of ASUS Z170 boards in the $130-$160ish range?
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Jan 26, 2017 22:39
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I live near the Greater Atlanta-Marietta Microcenter and I'd love to get everything there. I have built a PC before, but it took a weekend of beer and cussing, I am by no means an expert. Looking for a decent gaming rig. A mechanical keyboard and cheap monitor would be great. I will use the old keyboard and whichever monitor is worse, the cheap new one or my current one as a computer for my kids. I would like to have an ssd for windows, and at least another 500 gb of memory. 16 gigs of ram would be nice. I am going to need windows. my current monitor is 1080 and I would like to be able to run games on high or ultra for at least a little while. I am also thinking of getting this premade there, so it needs to be a better deal than the one they have available: http://www.microcenter.com/product/467612/G418_Desktop_Computer
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Jan 26, 2017 23:41
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^ Start with what the guy at the bottom of my post is getting and go from there.lordfrikk posted:Could I get a little primer on the various USB types and the interaction between case and motherboard? If the case has USB 3.0 and the motherboard has 3.1 I assume it won't go 3.1 speeds? What about 3.1 Gen 1/2? And USB-C I assume can connect to all kinds of USB 3.0/1Gen1/Gen2 ports? I'm just kind of confused how much should I worry about mismatched USB versions and not buying a motherboard with 3.1 Gen 2 if my case can only suport regular 3.1 or something... "USB 3.1 Gen 1" means USB 3.0, sometimes specifically with a Type-C connector but still only 5Gbps. "USB 3.1 Gen 2" is what most people just think of as USB 3.1, the full 10Gbps. Type-A connectors can deliver 10Gbps (there are mobos with them on the back, they're teal or red instead of blue) but if a case says that the front panel headers are 3.0 then that almost certainly means it hasn't been verified at 3.1 speeds so YMMV. I don't think that Type-C even has a standardized front panel header yet, but I could be wrong. A lot of cases just give Type-C connectors on Type-A headers which means you can't bank on having any C-exclusive features like power delivery or alternate modes with those ports. WetSpink posted:I'm working on a build to last me a few years, upgrading from 4gb ram, i5 750 and HD 5750. How does this parts list look? http://pcpartpicker.com/list/PyR8zM using ssd and DVD from my old machine and USB wan thing. Looks good to me - you might be able to go a bit higher on the RAM speed without much cost increase and that wouldn't be a bad idea, but there's nothing wrong. You can probably get a cheaper PSU that would still be quite adequate if you're looking to shave some more of the cost off. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 00:02 on Jan 27, 2017 |
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Jan 26, 2017 23:53
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The Dregs posted:I live near the Greater Atlanta-Marietta Microcenter and I'd love to get everything there. I have built a PC before, but it took a weekend of beer and cussing, I am by no means an expert. Look into the Powerspec G313 as well, which is the same box, only with a 6600K instead. The WLAN card isn't 802.11ac, either... just b/g/n. If you do decide to BYOPC, bring your PCPB printout with you - Microcenter lets you haggle on large purchases.
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Jan 27, 2017 00:03
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Are all USB-c cables thunderbolt 3 cables? Are all TB3 cables USB-c? It's very unclear to me. I'm also not sure if plugging a Pixel into a Macbook charger will make it explode, or what the correct way to set up a USB-c hub and charge a computer at the same time?
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Jan 27, 2017 00:06
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^ All Thunderbolt (3) cables are high-quality USB 3.1 (Gen 2) Type-C cables, but some Type-C cables are only wired for 2.0 or 3.0 and some don't have thick enough wiring for power delivery to a laptop. It's a good idea to get a cable specifically rated for whatever you want it to do, I would check out Monoprice's selection.BIG HEADLINE posted:Look into the Powerspec G313 as well, which is the same box, only with a 6600K instead. Yeah, the G313 is honestly $1000 or even a bit more of parts so paying $1000 for it is a good deal if you don't particularly enjoy the building experience. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Jan 27, 2017 |
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Jan 27, 2017 00:12
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Its actually pretty hard to get all the parts of a Powerspec G313 for 1k outside of a black friday rebate kill spree unless you have a friend that drives a lorry where all this poo poo conveniently falls out the back of.
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Jan 27, 2017 00:32
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Yeah - I assume they're using the cheapest possible 1070, RAM and SSD to hit that target but even still: 1070: $380 RAM: $80 (probably $100 right now) SSD: $115 CPU: $230 HSF: $25 Mobo: $100 DVD burner: $20 Like, there's a bare minimum of $950 aftermarket cost there even without the case, PSU, wireless card, and OS. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 00:52 on Jan 27, 2017 |
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Jan 27, 2017 00:50
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PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Py7FHN Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Py7FHN/by_merchant/ CPU: Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($213.99 @ SuperBiiz) Motherboard: ASRock H110M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($69.99 @ SuperBiiz) Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($66.89 @ OutletPC) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($169.49 @ OutletPC) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GAMING X Video Card ($269.99 @ B&H) Case: Rosewill FBM-05 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($24.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair RMx 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg) Total: $905.33 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-26 20:41 EST-0500 So I sort of casually assembled this from the op recs, and I was wondering what was out of date/what you guys thought was not actually useful for this. I just want to play fallout 4 goodly. This would be the first time I've built a pc for what it is worth. I'll be getting windows with a student discount. Will I need to do anything other than slot the CPU in (that is, will I have to apply paste?)? I'm not sure if I want to go with anything smaller than a 500GB SSD. While thinking about it (and this is really rough estimation here), I can't imagine the OS, A basic Backup, fallout 4, and 40 GB misc taking up more than 160GB, But I don't know how over provisioning and getting close to the drive limit affects things. If none of that was a problem, I could totally go with 250 GB, if it is worth the savings. similarly, If I can make a significant savings without hurting fallout 4 quality, I'm cool with that. thechosenone fucked around with this message at 02:56 on Jan 27, 2017 |
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Jan 27, 2017 02:45
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