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The only thing keeping me from Mazda is their engine choices. Where is my turbo charged MazdaSpeeds Mazda? If they made an upgraded engine for the Mazda6 or CX-5 they'd sway me for sure. Everything else they do (driving dynamics, quality interiors, build qualities, ergonomics) are great.
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Feb 1, 2017 23:52
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I think it's the anti Iranian sentiment in the USA that keeps people away .
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Feb 2, 2017 00:04
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euphronius posted:I think it's the anti Iranian sentiment in the USA that keeps people away . Zoroastrian jokes?
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Feb 2, 2017 00:13
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Yes. I'm sorry.
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Feb 2, 2017 00:14
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euphronius posted:Yes. Turns out Mazda alleges that is why it is called that.
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Feb 2, 2017 00:16
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Update - Thanks for the responses. I ended up taking a complete 180 on this, as a friend who works as a tech for a Buick, Cadi, GMC dealer urged me to see one of his buddies in pre-owned sales. I walked away with a '13 Buick LaCrosse with 38k miles in great condition with CPO on it. It was actually purchased at that same dealer, one owner, with maintenance done every 6-7k miles. 'It's not your grandparents Buick' thing sure seems true. (Does it make me an old man to drive a Buick at 37? heh). Madbullogna posted:Quick question about reliability.....
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Feb 2, 2017 00:16
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Madbullogna posted:Update - Thanks for the responses. I ended up taking a complete 180 on this, as a friend who works as a tech for a Buick, Cadi, GMC dealer urged me to see one of his buddies in pre-owned sales. I walked away with a '13 Buick LaCrosse with 38k miles in great condition with CPO on it. It was actually purchased at that same dealer, one owner, with maintenance done every 6-7k miles. 'It's not your grandparents Buick' thing sure seems true. (Does it make me an old man to drive a Buick at 37? heh). Nice find and thanks for the update post. How much did you pick it up for?
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Feb 2, 2017 00:18
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Michael Scott posted:Nice find and thanks for the update post. How much did you pick it up for? 18.5k, which from what I could tell was about 1.3k less than what KBB & NADA said a CPO should be. I don't know if there's any truth to it, but they said if they took it any lower for me, it'd have to be without the CPO, as GM has a threshold to stay within being allowed to be sold with the CPO attached. But I'm happy with the price, and got them to toss in FormulaOne Pinnacle window tint too, which around here is $450 for the primary shop that does it. I love my Honda Accord Hybrid, but so far I like the space & what Buick has done. (Granted, a 'full-size' car for Honda is different than for GM).
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Feb 2, 2017 00:58
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Madbullogna posted:I don't know if there's any truth to it, but they said if they took it any lower for me, it'd have to be without the CPO, as GM has a threshold to stay within being allowed to be sold with the CPO attached. Ehhh, it's basically a half truth. What he was really saying is if he sold the car for any less they couldn't include the CPO warranty as part of the price. I'm pretty tight with the guys at my local Ford dealer... I think I've bought 4 cars from my guy now and I'm constantly asking questions about how the business works. With Ford at least, CPO cars are usually good condition vehicles that pass the "172 point checklist*", and have the extended warranty bolted onto them and included in the sticker price. The dealer rolls the cost of calling it a CPO Ford and the extended warranty into the advertised price. There is basically no difference (to my knowledge with Ford vehicles specifically) between purchasing a CPO car, and a non CPO car and getting a manufacturer backed extended warranty. My Ford CPO car extended the bumper to bumper 12mo/12K miles and bumped powertrain out to 6 yr/100K miles. You might be better off getting a better warranty plan that includes bumper to bumper coverage for the entire time For example, say you want a 2014 Ford Fusion with 36,000 miles on it (I'm making this poo poo up). and......for the sake of argument the exact same car you want is for sale at 2 different places: Dealer 1: Bob's Toyota North has the car on the lot for 18,000 dollars. Bob sells Toyota and can't offer a Ford as a Ford CPO vehicle, but he bought the car at the auto auction for a good price and can make a few bucks off selling it on the used lot at his dealership. Bob can sell a 3rd party vehicle warranty serviced through a decent 3rd party company for 1500 dollars. Another option would be to buy the car for 18K and go home and google Ford ESP plan and buy an extended warranty from the many Ford dealers that will sell the ESP plan standalone, which would give you a Ford backed warranty. Dealer 2: Dick's Ford Superstore has the exact same car on it's lot, bought it at auction as well, but Dick is going to inspect the car and sell it as a Ford Certified Pre-Owned vehicle with a 7yr/100K powertrain warranty and 12mo/12K bumper to bumper warranty. Dick has his car listed for 19,500 since it's CPO There's not much difference between the two vehicles, other than the extended warranty being backed by Ford instead of the 3rd party company, and Dick's Ford Superstore gets to market the car as a Ford CPO vehicle which makes people feel warm and fuzzy inside. *172 point checklist may or may not be some barely trained lube tech putting the car on a lift and seeing if anything jumps out at him or leaks fluid on him. Long story short, Manufacturer "CPO" vehicles have passed some sort of inspection, and have a manufacturer backed extended warranty as part of the price. I would assume most Domestic brands have the same M.O. I'm not familiar with the imports, I'm sure Lexus/Audi/MB/BMW CPO programs are a little more in depth, and probably cost more as well. Anyway, doesn't matter, you bought the car, you seem happy, so go enjoy it! skipdogg fucked around with this message at 04:46 on Feb 2, 2017 |
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Feb 2, 2017 04:32
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Is an open recall something to be worried about on a carfax?quote:08/02/2016 Subaru of America Manufacturer recall issued Edit- here's the whole carfax if anything else stands out to anyone? quote:Owner 1
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Feb 3, 2017 19:33
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Not really, but if you buy the car you should get the recall work performed. It will be free. The only maybe-sorta bad thing about an open recall on a used car is that maybe the previous owner didn't stay on top of upkeep as closely as they should have. But since that recall was only issued a few months ago it doesn't seem that bad.
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Feb 3, 2017 19:44
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I need a new DD. I currently own a 2007 Mazdaspeed6 and a 2006 Mazda Miata. I dd the Miata most of the time during summer but it's no good for trips where we need to take more than a duffel bag. I primarily drive the MS6 during the winter but a recent influx of cash has made me decide to build it up for more power and tackle it's cosmetic issues. It's also a gas hog that requires premium fuel and averages 23mpg so it's not the best for daily use. I'm looking for the best option for value, mpg, cost of upkeep etc. My first impulse was to buy a Jeep Cherokee for ease of repair but they are terrible on fuel. I'd like something reasonably fuel efficient (25mpg+) that runs on 87 octane. Automatic is fine as my girlfriend does not like driving manual and she'd need to be able to drive this car. Also looking for relative cheapness, under $4K out the door. I like wagons and don't really want a crossover or small truck.
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Feb 5, 2017 22:59
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Don't buy a 3rd car just to go from 23 mpg to 25 mpg?
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Feb 5, 2017 23:18
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Throatwarbler posted:Don't buy a 3rd car just to go from 23 mpg to 25 mpg? Premium is on average 70 cents more per gallon in NE Indiana right now. It adds up very fast. And I don't want to daily the 6 if I'm going to be ripping it apart. I've owned 3 or more cars on average for the last 7 years so it's not a big change.
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Feb 5, 2017 23:25
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Well OK but you might be needlessly limiting yourself if you insist on a wagon and not something like a Mazda Tribute/Ford Escape which really isn't that much different from a car that the mfrs call a wagon. I hear the 2 generations ago Focus ZTW is Ok and I would have bought one except they are so rare that I can never find one. If there's one near you maybe take a look?
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Feb 5, 2017 23:58
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It doesn't have to be a wagon, I just like them! Isn't there an era of Escape/Tribute that has a garbage trans? I had pretty much written them off mentally because of what I've read in AI. They're nice looking and if the mpg is decent they could make the list.
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Feb 6, 2017 00:04
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Rhyno posted:It doesn't have to be a wagon, I just like them! The very first generation used essentially the same drivetrain as the Protoge/whatever of the same era and it was all made in Japan Mazda so it was fine, I think the manual was a Mazda and the auto trans might even have been a Aisin/Toyota. Later then switched over to Ford engines and trans. The Ford engines had all kinds of minor problems like the VCT actuators coming undone and whatnot and they weren't all that well built but it wasn't anything fatal.
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Feb 6, 2017 00:10
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I'll definitely take a look at them. Because of the weight of the vehicle is the 4 banger any advantage over the v6?
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Feb 6, 2017 00:21
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I looked it up and I think the V6 was a Ford engine and so used a Ford 4AT while the I4 was a Mazda. For a $4k car you should probably just focus on how well its been maintained though. I don't know of any big systemic issues with either of them.
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Feb 6, 2017 00:39
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Thanks man, I will keep them on my radar. Probably looking at a mid summer purchase so that gives me a few months to narrow things down.
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Feb 6, 2017 00:46
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Current list of possible cars and their mpg drawn from vehicles I have actually driven in the past Ford Escape/Mazda Tribute 23mpg Mazda6 Wagon 24mpg Mazda Protege5 27mpg Ford Focus Hatch 28mpg Jeep Cherokee XJ (lol) 13mpg I used Fuelly as my mpg source since it bases it on real world data. I looked at Rav4 and CRVs but they command much higher prices. All of the cars on this list can be had for well under $4K. Rhyno fucked around with this message at 16:34 on Feb 6, 2017 |
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Feb 6, 2017 16:31
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Well, my 2005 Corolla that I bought brand new and put 140,000 miles on over the past 12 years got side swiped by an 18 wheeler this morning. I walked away without injury, but my old faithful car can't say the same - I will almost certainly be written a check for it being totaled here soon. I loved that car and want to do something similar with my next purchase: get something reliable, take good care of it, and then keep it for 10+ years. Proposed Budget: Around 20k. New or Used: Either. If used, I'd like to get a low mileage and certified pre owned vehicle. Body Style: 4 door sedan or hatchback. Something where I could theoretically have enough space to put the seats down and sleep in when I'm out hiking and don't feel like pitching a tent would be nice but not mandatory. How will you be using the car?: Driving around town, commuting between my work cities that are 150 miles apart, and taking a few road trips a year. What aspects are most important to you: Something that's fun to drive but reliable and comfortable for long hauls. I had a manual in my past car and would like to find another if possible. Getting good gas mileage, a decent bluetooth audio system, and a rear facing camera would also all be appreciated. I'm thinking a mazda 3 fits my criteria pretty spot on. I'm going to go test drive one here today or tomorrow. Any other models I should take a look at that would fit what I described?
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Feb 6, 2017 23:37
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CPO is dumb but the mazda3 is probably the right car for you.
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Feb 8, 2017 07:08
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I made some posts around a month ago, but I am still hemming and hawing between the CX-5 and CR-V. Typically how quickly do they run out of last years model once the new model is out? I like the appearance of the 2016.5 CX-5 compared to the 2017, and don't want to wait so long to make a decision that it is difficult to find a 2016.5 CX-5. Also, it seems like with Honda you always hear about reliability/resale value. Is Mazda comparable? I think reliability is my last hang-up, before I was somewhat concerned about size, but now I feel like either would be sufficiently large. I saw complaints about road noise and the windshield for the CX-5, but I figured if I go looking for complaints I will find complaints. I tend to run cars into the ground rather than sell the car mid-life span, so if the CR-V would tend to last years longer that could sway me to it, even if it does look worse and cost a bit more.
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Feb 8, 2017 07:48
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You are receiving this broadcast as a dream...We are transmitting from the year one nine... nine nine ...You are receiving this broadcast in order t
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How do you decide between a midsize or compact sedan? I'm currently driving a 2002 cr-v but I want to downsize. I drive myself plus two other dudes to hockey fairly frequently but my wife manages that feat in her Civic so I think a CR-V is overkill. Currently looking at a 2015 Sonata or a ~2014 era mazda3 sedan. I want something that feels high-end and handles better than a 2002 CR-V but without the reliability issues of buying an older entry level luxury car, and I can't decide if I want a midsize or not. I have about $20k CAD to play with but would happily go lower and grudgingly go higher.
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Feb 9, 2017 00:41
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My car got hosed. Currently my car will start just fine, I can put the car in different gears and rev the engine, but there is no power transfer from the engine to the wheels. When I was on the side of the road, a big puddle drifted slowly from under the front end of my 2010 Mazda3. What is the tipping point on repairs and continue driving vs get a different car?
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Feb 9, 2017 02:09
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A 2010 Mazda 3 is most likely worth fixing even if you need a new transmission
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Feb 9, 2017 02:29
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skipdogg posted:A 2010 Mazda 3 is most likely worth fixing even if you need a new transmission Sure, it's gonna be worth the investment as far as a return from fixing it in the sale price, but at what point should I consider selling the thing once it's fixed? Is this the beginning of the end or should I keep on truckin'? I kinda want a different car and I admit I'm fishing for legitimate reasons to sell.
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Feb 9, 2017 05:15
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I'm no expert but I don't think it's a normal to need a new transition on a 7 year old car. If you've kept up with maintenance then it should be fine. That being said, if you want a new car then buy a new car. You don't need an excuse if you can afford it and it's what you want to do. 7 years is a good amount of time to get out of a car.
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Feb 9, 2017 05:27
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Internet Explorer posted:I'm no expert but I don't think it's a normal to need a new transition on a 7 year old car. If you've kept up with maintenance then it should be fine. That being said, if you want a new car then buy a new car. You don't need an excuse if you can afford it and it's what you want to do. If I didn't share expenses with someone, I wouldn't need an excuse. But I do appreciate your point! I am kinda wondering what happened to it to be honest. It was perfectly fine until I went to training for a month. It sat in my driveway for a month and when I came back something was hosed and I shoulda sold it then, I guess, instead of letting it get worse. I can't help but think someone did some bullshit to it while I was out of town without knowing how to drive stick.
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Feb 9, 2017 05:43
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How many miles are on it?
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Feb 9, 2017 10:20
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Please call me dumb if this is the wrong thread for this question. I have a 2013 civic ex-L at the end of its lease, 59k miles on it (oops). I've been shopping around and come across a few options: Lease terms on the car I am getting out of - $340/mo, $12,450 buyout, 36k mile limit -Best financing I can get to buy out the lien is about 6%, with more shopping around to do. If I buy it out I'd be paying in the realm of $27k all-told at the end of the loan (lease payments plus loan financing). This does not seem like a good deal. In lieu of paying the mileage penalty, 3 dealers have offered me $10.7k (honda), $11.5k (subaru) and $9.5k (carmax) as trade-in on similar vehicles, putting me in negative equity territory no matter what. I am trying to make sure I do not over-pay for a new vehicle. Not committed to leasing or buying; just want to make sure that I make the right financial decision. At this point I am looking at re-leasing another civic-ex with honda giving me $10.7k on trade but my brain is hosed with the numbers shell game at autonation. Am I better off re-leasing with the intent to buy out the car? Should I take the trade-in and buy instead of lease if the overall cost is lower on purchase? Should I try to do a 2-car deal and include my wife's 2011 Santa Fe, which is slightly in positive-equity territory? skylined! fucked around with this message at 14:02 on Feb 9, 2017 |
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Feb 9, 2017 13:59
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Volkerball posted:How many miles are on it? About 70k
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Feb 9, 2017 14:25
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signalnoise posted:About 70k Depending on the make, that's on the low end of the normal range, but not absurdly early. The transmissions in my model of Durango go out at 60-80k like clockwork.
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Feb 9, 2017 15:02
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skylined! posted:Please call me dumb if this is the wrong thread for this question. I'll call you dumb but not for posting here trying to get out of a hole. Do not include your wife's Santa Fe in any deal. The tiny amount of money it maybe nets you will be eaten up trivially by the dealers margin. They have you by the balls on that Civic. That car is basically worth the buy out price. Will they give you the car for $12,450? Or $15k? If so, do that. Finance the rest of it and own the car. Stop leasing cars. Ever. Especially not a Civic for what is nearly the payment on a Civic. Drive the civic for a total of 10 years before deciding to do anything else car related.
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Feb 9, 2017 16:10
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Volkerball posted:Depending on the make, that's on the low end of the normal range, but not absurdly early. The transmissions in my model of Durango go out at 60-80k like clockwork. So I guess since what I want is a Toyota 86, the verdict would be fix the transmission and drive it until 86es start popping up used?
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Feb 9, 2017 16:16
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Volkerball posted:Depending on the make, that's on the low end of the normal range, but not absurdly early. The transmissions in my model of Durango go out at 60-80k like clockwork. It seems really odd to me that the transmission would blow up in a 7 year old mazda with low-average miles on it given ok maintenance.
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Feb 9, 2017 16:37
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Well I just heard back from a personally known, trusted, reputable mechanic. He says because of the location of the transmission in the car, it's going to be about 8 hours of labor just to give a solid diagnosis, and then somewhere between 500 and 1500 in parts, plus labor to fix it and put it all back together. Depending on the severity it could be like 3000 dollars or more to fix this all told. So I'll probably just sell it as is to someone as a project car and heyyyy there's a down payment, right? I think last time I asked, I was looking at a Veloster R-Spec, MX-5, 86, something like that. Anyone know any good tricks for purchases in that kind of market for a manchild who pines for the busted 240SX of his youth?
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Feb 9, 2017 16:59
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signalnoise posted:Well I just heard back from a personally known, trusted, reputable mechanic. He says because of the location of the transmission in the car, it's going to be about 8 hours of labor just to give a solid diagnosis, and then somewhere between 500 and 1500 in parts, plus labor to fix it and put it all back together. Depending on the severity it could be like 3000 dollars or more to fix this all told. So I'll probably just sell it as is to someone as a project car and heyyyy there's a down payment, right? Assuming you're in the US, now is a very good time to buy a convertible. Not much demand. I'm sort of a broken record on this, but I own a Fiat Spider and can strongly recommend you add that to your list of possibilities.
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Feb 9, 2017 17:14
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H110Hawk posted:I'll call you dumb but not for posting here trying to get out of a hole. The buyout is $12450 from Honda financial. 7% sales tax plus whatever fees assessed by the lender puts the finance amount between $13.3-$14k. So my best financial choice is to seek the best finance rate and buy it. This is where I've been leaning but have over-complicated it, I think. Thanks.
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Feb 9, 2017 17:25
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