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Yup! But there used to be a lot more. Smartmax sold off the IP to CMON and they stuck them all in a boardgame, but at a smaller scale than what they were before I think (54mm).
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Feb 14, 2017 09:25
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Z the IVth posted:I built a thing for my paints. Got sick of using the nail varnish racks and was too skint to shell out for a laser cut MDF one. 2 hours and 1 sheet of foamcore later. I really like this. Is there any issue with sitting paint sideways like this? I would worry about paint drying in the tips
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Feb 14, 2017 14:46
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Well it'll definitely teach you to secure the lids properly after painting quickly
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Feb 14, 2017 16:42
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w00tmonger posted:I really like this. Is there any issue with sitting paint sideways like this? I would worry about paint drying in the tips Quite a lot of the vallejo racking solutions actually store paint like this. I used to store it upright and there were some colours that dried out anyway. Edit - it's not obvious from the photo but the entire rack is actually tilted backwards so the bottles angle down.
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Feb 14, 2017 17:47
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You actually will help prevent the paint from drying out by storing them upside down, the liquid creates a vapor barrier and air can't seep in. It's really important to store the Vallejo alcohol metals like this.
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Feb 14, 2017 18:01
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I've taken to storing my paints upside-down n Really Useful™ drawers for that reason. It also makes it easier to spot the colour you want.
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Feb 14, 2017 18:28
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JoshTheStampede posted:I use Dark Earth sometimes, for very fine grain earths like sand or concrete. Black Lava is coarser and at 28mm scale looks like gravel or rocky ground or really churned up earth. Thanks. When using this stuff, do you glue the mini onto the base before or after applying the paste? Does the mini adhere well with just superglue on top of a layer of the paste, or does this require pinning? Similarly, do people glue their minis on top of agrellan earth or glue the mini first?
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Feb 14, 2017 21:40
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Finished off fatty and the base. 
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Feb 14, 2017 23:03
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I painted some stuff real bad  My issue is the bases; I need some kind of way of filling in the empty slotta space and smoothing the join with the metal bit. What do folks use for that?
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Feb 15, 2017 01:52
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Has anyone ever used Anarchy Models - HD stencil System? They seem like they could be cool, a little pricey but would save me time from having to make my own.
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Feb 15, 2017 02:30
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spectralent posted:I painted some stuff real bad Scotch tape. Seriously. After you put down glue and basing material it holds up fine.
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Feb 15, 2017 02:34
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Glue and tissue is a very cheap way to do it. Stuff those bases, she'll never notice.
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Feb 15, 2017 05:51
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I use a gel based superglue that I have, to fill gaps like that. It's really slow drying and otherwise terrible for miniatures, but it makes for a surprisingly good hole filler for stuff like that.
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Feb 15, 2017 07:15
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Greenstuff, it also helps keep the model in there.
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Feb 15, 2017 08:26
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I green stuff it as part of the mini prep/mouldline removal/pin/gap-fill stage.
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Feb 15, 2017 11:33
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If I'm doing a complicated base, or using a pre-made one, I trim the slot down to tabs under the figure's feet. Then I'll greenstuff the base, leaving holes in the slot for the foot tabs (or drill holes if needed). I cover the holes with sticky tack before painting the base separately, so I'm gluing metal to plastic, not to paint.
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Feb 15, 2017 13:24
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Calling these assholes done, but I might add some photoetch =I= stuff later My first project with minis for a couple of years. The "normal" flagellants are based on gouls with lots of putty and 3rd. party power claws. Everything looks a bit messy right now, I hope much of it is because of the diffent kinds and colours of putty. Count-as electro-priests for 2nd ed. 40K. They have some very good rules for how archoflaggelants work in my head (4+ save, frenzy, S8). Do not play well with Arbites.
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Feb 15, 2017 14:20
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Thanks for all the advice.glitchkrieg posted:I green stuff it as part of the mini prep/mouldline removal/pin/gap-fill stage. I think this might be my problem; I've been painting the model, and then adding it to a base, which has worked okay when it's just feet going on but becomes an issue with slottas.
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Feb 15, 2017 14:58
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fozzy fosbourne posted:Thanks. When using this stuff, do you glue the mini onto the base before or after applying the paste? Does the mini adhere well with just superglue on top of a layer of the paste, or does this require pinning? Glue the mini down first unless you're pinning them on. Gluing to paint (which is really what that is) forms a pretty weak bond that will break just from regular use, loving up the base too. HardCoil posted:Calling these assholes done, but I might add some photoetch =I= stuff later These guys are so loving cool. Any paintscheme in mind?
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Feb 15, 2017 16:26
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I finished my first 6 Orc Blood Bowl Players!                     I really love these models. Some of the best work I've ever done. Interestingly enough, I find checks to be a lot easier to paint than dags! I though it would be the other way around! The emblem on their chest plates is a freehand orky maw with red fangs, as the team is called Da Red Fangz. I think the Blitzer is my favorite. EDIT-I bought one of those Tao lights and it's amazing. Ghost Hand recommended them on his show, and he's right, they're fantastic. I don't know how I painted without one before. The Sex Cannon fucked around with this message at 17:24 on Feb 15, 2017 |
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Feb 15, 2017 17:13
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Tao light?
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Feb 15, 2017 17:26
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The Sex Cannon posted:I finished my first 6 Orc Blood Bowl Players! Those checks are loving choice.
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Feb 15, 2017 17:31
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The Sex Cannon posted:I finished my first 6 Orc Blood Bowl Players! Love them! Can you tell us about the yellow? What paint are you using? I'm currently painting a Varag, where I planed a small checkered piece, will see how that works out. Also whats a dag?
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Feb 15, 2017 18:15
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with a rebel yell she QQd posted:Also whats a dag? "Dag" in this case is the triangular design you see on a lot of Ork models where checks might go (think pennants, backgammon triangles, etc.) The Sex Cannon: I just listened to you and SRM on the latest 40K Badcast, and I gotta tell ya, it's great seeing these players go from your discussion to finished paintjobs. Keep up the good work, you two!
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Feb 15, 2017 18:26
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SRM posted:Glue the mini down first unless you're pinning them on. Gluing to paint (which is really what that is) forms a pretty weak bond that will break just from regular use, loving up the base too. Thanks, I think just standard pallid flesh, dull metal and basic Inq. colours. They are going to be part of a small 1000pts. 2nd ed. Inquisition themed force with some Grey Nights and other count-as Inquistion weirdoes. Dr. Gargunza posted:The Sex Cannon: I just listened to you and SRM on the latest 40K Badcast, and I gotta tell ya, it's great seeing these players go from your discussion to finished paintjobs. Keep up the good work, you two! Yeah exactly. Do you know how many listeners you've got?
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Feb 15, 2017 19:38
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long-rear end nips Diane posted:Tao light? This: https://www.amazon.com/TaoTronics-T...words=tao+light Get one, they're awesome. with a rebel yell she QQd posted:Love them! Can you tell us about the yellow? What paint are you using? Thanks! I love yellow Orks, too. I use GW paints. Averland Sunset base, Yriel Yellow layer, Seraphim Sepia shade, Yriel Yellow highlight, Flash Gitz Yellow Highlight. Dr. Gargunza posted:"Dag" in this case is the triangular design you see on a lot of Ork models where checks might go (think pennants, backgammon triangles, etc.) Thanks, man! Tell your friends! HardCoil posted:Yeah exactly. Do you know how many listeners you've got? I'd guess we have around 250-300 regular listeners. Sucks for them, I guess.
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Feb 15, 2017 21:37
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The Sex Cannon posted:I finished my first 6 Orc Blood Bowl Players! Add chips in the paint, especially the rivet heads, edges, and spikes.
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Feb 15, 2017 22:01
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So I knew this would happen because of the complicated surface, but this character decal broke and I made a snap decision to break up other parts to make it look like it was by design and salvage what I can. Not great but I did what I could before the decal started setting. Anything I can add to the background to give it more of an illusion of being cut apart? Chill la Chill fucked around with this message at 04:34 on Mar 28, 2017 |
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Feb 15, 2017 23:47
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Maybe draw in some spots between rips to make it look like a pattern effect? Add some kirby dots or lens flare type patterns. Either way, thumbs up on the itasha starship 
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Feb 15, 2017 23:53
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Possibly add in some weathering to look like the missing bits got scratched/scorched off in a battle?
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Feb 16, 2017 00:28
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What's a good way to mask the join spots on a plastic mini I want to paint in separate pieces? I've seen watered down Elmer's glue but I'm skeptical of how well that would work. I guess poster tack would probably be ok but something that brushes on would be preferable.
The Moon Monster fucked around with this message at 02:35 on Feb 16, 2017 |
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Feb 16, 2017 02:12
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The Moon Monster posted:What's a good way to mask the join join spots on a plastic mini I want to paint in separate pieces? I've seen watered down Elmer's glue but I'm skeptical of how well that would work. I guess poster tack would probably be ok but something that brushes on would be preferable. I always use poster tack, all you need is a tiny spot
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Feb 16, 2017 02:25
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e: Nevermind, misread.
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Feb 16, 2017 02:26
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I did a rush job on some Trollkin Sluggers recently:  I've put two layers of dullcote and two layers of brush on matte, and they still have some shine to them. Not sure wtf happened there.
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Feb 16, 2017 06:07
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Dope as usual, Fyrbrand. I tried painting marble for Guilliman's base tonight, I really wish I did a test somewhere else because it looks like loving trash. I followed the Warhammer TV tutorial but I guess I did it wrong. Should have practiced on a piece of plasticard first, this is gonna be a bitch to cover up.
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Feb 16, 2017 06:43
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This isn't my work, but its now in my possession. Its painted by Aythami Alonso Torrent, a professional painter from Spain. I won it in a raffle for his video tutorial watchers. It is... amazing. 
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Feb 16, 2017 08:29
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That's just rediculous 
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Feb 16, 2017 08:31
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Tentacle Party posted:This isn't my work, but its now in my possession. Its painted by Aythami Alonso Torrent, a professional painter from Spain. I won it in a raffle for his video tutorial watchers.  Totally stealing that face shading.
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Feb 16, 2017 12:11
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Indolent Bastard posted:Add chips in the paint, especially the rivet heads, edges, and spikes. What's the best way to do that?
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Feb 16, 2017 15:57
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The Sex Cannon posted:What's the best way to do that? Ripped foam and your preferred metallic paint.
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Feb 16, 2017 15:59
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